Cosmetic use of extract of eye-catching lavender as protective or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent

By using eye-catching lavender extract as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent, the problem of skin problems caused by fatigue and low sleep quality in the prior art is solved, and the effect of improving sleep and skin health is achieved.

CN119110718APending Publication Date: 2024-12-10LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS SA
View PDF 2 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
CN202380029619.2
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-03-24
Filing Date
2023-03-23
Publication Date
2024-12-10

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing beauty products are difficult to effectively prevent or treat skin problems caused by fatigue, such as loss of the skin, dull skin tone, haggardness, dark circles and eye bags, and it is difficult to improve sleep quality and non-pathological changes in the skin's circadian rhythm.

Method used

Using fat-soluble extracts obtained from striking lavender plant materials in terpene solvents as anti-fatigue cosmetics, resynchronizes the skin circadian rhythm by increasing melatonin production in the skin, and provides a protective mechanism during the sleep stage to improve sleep quality.

Benefits of technology

Significantly alleviates skin problems caused by fatigue, improves sleep quality, prevents changes in the skin's circadian rhythm, and enhances the skin's ability to protect against environmental stress.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

Smart Images

  • Figure BDA0005055109110000261
    Figure BDA0005055109110000261
  • Figure BDA0005055109110000271
    Figure BDA0005055109110000271
  • Figure BDA0005055109110000281
    Figure BDA0005055109110000281
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of beauty products, in particular to a beauty agent for resisting the influence of fatigue on skin. The present invention relates, inter alia, to a fat-soluble striking lavender extract as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for increasing skin production of melatonin in healthy skin obtained by immersion in a terpene solvent, and to a cosmetic ingredient and a cosmetic composition containing the same, and to a cosmetic method using the same.
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and in particular to cosmetic agents for combating the effects of skin fatigue. Background Art

[0002] The skin is the first barrier that protects the body from external attacks. This organ is composed of multiple layers of tissue. In particular: the epidermis (which is the outermost part of the skin), the dermis (connective tissue composed of fibroblasts and extracellular matrix, which has skin adhesion and nutritional functions), and the hypodermis composed of fat cells.

[0003] The epidermis is composed of multiple cell layers of corneocytes. In particular, the germ layer of the epidermis (called the basal layer) contains, inter alia, skin stem cells, the spinous layer (the spinous cell layer) (composed of multiple layers of polygonal cells), the granular layer (the granular cell layer) (comprising one to three layers of flat cells containing cytoplasmic inclusions), the transparent keratin granules, and finally the epidermal stratum corneum (the stratum corneum composed of keratin-rich anucleated cells (called corneocytes), which corresponds to the terminal stage of keratinocyte differentiation).

[0004] The outermost cells of the epidermis are constantly removed and replaced by cells from the lower layers, a process called desquamation. Cell regeneration of the epidermis is based on a process of cell maturation, in which cells of the basal layer of the epidermis differentiate and gradually migrate to the various layers of the epidermis until they reach the epidermis in the form of keratinocytes.

[0005] The skin is often the first to show signs of fatigue. Fatigue can be caused by a variety of factors, such as lack of sleep, a poor or unbalanced diet, overwork, high intensity activity or lack of activity at work, or a disturbed home environment. Women who balance family life and work, as well as young workers in urban environments, are particularly at risk of chronic fatigue.

[0006] Individuals exposed to this type of fatigue may display haggard features, a dull or even pale complexion, or dark circles and bags under the eyes. In other words, their face may look tired and worn, or even unhealthy. However, presenting the image of a healthy person may be a major concern for individuals who are active at work, especially in a competitive environment and / or when in contact with clients.

[0007] Nevertheless, there is still a need for new cosmetic actives to prevent or treat the visible effects of fatigue on the skin. Summary of the invention

[0008] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract, preferably a fat-soluble extract of lavandin obtained by macerating lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent, as a protective cosmetic agent or an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for healthy skin.

[0009] Preferably, the extract according to the invention is used as an anti-fatigue agent for healthy skin.

[0010] The extract of Lavandula angustifolia is usually an extract of a hybrid selected from the group consisting of Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia Medik., Lavandula hybrida and Lavandula xintermedia.

[0011] The fat-soluble extract of lavender can be used as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent to increase the skin production of melatonin in healthy skin.

[0012] According to a particular aspect, the liposoluble extract of Lavandula angustifolia can also be used as a cosmetic agent to resynchronize or prevent non-pathological alterations of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin and / or as a cosmetic agent to promote or favor the skin protection mechanisms of healthy skin during the sleep phase.

[0013] According to another aspect, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention can be used to improve sleep, in particular to increase total sleep duration and / or reduce wakefulness time after falling asleep in fatigued individuals.

[0014] Preferably, the fat-soluble extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention is used in individuals suffering from fatigue, whose fatigue is not related to or caused by a pathological state.

[0015] For example, fatigue in an individual may be caused by one or more factors selected from the group consisting of: lack of sleep, jet lag, poor or unbalanced dietary health, alcohol consumption, lack or excessive physical activity, a sedentary lifestyle, overwork, high intensity activity or lack of activity at work, night work or staggered work hours, screen exposure, and stress.

[0016] Extracts of Lavender may be used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from the group consisting of: loss of skin radiance, dull skin tone, pale skin tone, loss of uniformity of skin tone, haggard look, dark circles around the eyes, eye bags, eyelid swelling, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, and combinations thereof. In other embodiments, extracts of Lavender may be used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from the group consisting of: loss of skin radiance, dull skin tone, pale skin tone, loss of uniformity of skin tone, haggard look, dark circles around the eyes, eye bags, eyelid swelling, and combinations thereof.

[0017] The extract may also be used as a cosmetic agent to promote or improve the protection of the skin against environmental stress.

[0018] In certain embodiments, the extract is further used to improve sleep, in particular to increase total sleep time, and / or to reduce wakefulness time after sleep onset. In other embodiments, the extract is used as a cosmetic agent to resynchronize or prevent changes in the skin's circadian rhythm, particularly after exposure to environmental stress. The extract can also be used to increase the production of melatonin at the skin level.

[0019] In certain embodiments, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia comprises at least 8.0% of sesquiterpene compounds, which percentage corresponds to the area percentage represented by the peaks of sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of ​​the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the absolute oil. The extract of Lavandula angustifolia may specifically comprise:

[0020] - 10.0% to 20.0% of a sesquiterpene compound selected from β-caryophyllene, trans-β-farnesene, γ-cadinene and α-bisabolol,

[0021] - up to 30.0%, preferably from 6.0% to 18.0% linalool,

[0022] - at least 3.5% lavandin acetate, preferably 4.0% to 7.0% lavandin acetate,

[0023] The percentage corresponds to the area percentage represented by the peak of the sesquiterpene compound relative to the total area of ​​the peak of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the neat oil.

[0024] In certain embodiments, the extract according to the present invention can be obtained by a method comprising, or by a method comprising:

[0025] - comprising the steps of immersing lavender plant material (preferably flower tops) in a terpene solvent, recovering a liquid phase after immersion and removing the terpene solvent from the liquid phase to obtain a concrete, and

[0026] - A step of removing the wax present in the extract in order to obtain an extract.

[0027] The terpene solvent used in the process may comprise at least 85 wt%, preferably at least 90 wt% of terpene compounds.

[0028] In certain embodiments, the extract is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask or serum.

[0029] Typically, the cosmetic composition comprises 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of the extract. The cosmetic composition may be selected from aqueous solutions, hydro-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triplet: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, especially O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or globules-assisted dispersions of a fat phase in an aqueous phase, suspensions (preferably in an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic medium), liposomal suspensions, powders, lotions, emulsions, creams, unguents, gels, foams and ointments.

[0030] Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic method for preventing or treating signs of cutaneous fatigue in fatigued individuals, said method comprising applying on the skin a cosmetically effective amount of an extract as defined above.

[0031] Typically, an extract of Lavender is present in a cosmetic composition as defined in the present application. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic method is used to prevent, treat or reduce dark circles, and the extract is applied to the periocular area. The cosmetic method can be performed on a subject showing fatigue, which is not caused by or associated with a pathological state. According to an additional aspect, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic ingredient comprising an extract of Lavender as defined in the present application in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. For example, the cosmetic ingredient may include an extract of Lavender at 0.1% to 1.5% by weight in a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin or may consist of an extract of Lavender at 0.1% to 1.5% by weight in a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.

[0032] Extracts of lavender are present in cosmetic ingredients as anti-fatigue cosmetic agents for increasing the skin production of melatonin in healthy skin and / or for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological alterations of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and / or as cosmetic agents for promoting or favoring skin protective mechanisms during the sleep phase of healthy skin.

[0033] According to another aspect, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Lavandula angustifolia as defined herein, or a cosmetic ingredient as defined herein, in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0034] The cosmetic composition can be chosen from aqueous solutions, aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triplet: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, especially O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or globule-assisted dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, suspensions (preferably in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium), liposomal suspensions, powders, lotions, emulsions, creams, ointments, gels, foams and salves.

[0035] The cosmetic composition may be a care product for treating or preventing skin fatigue, such as a serum, a cream, a mask or a balm, preferably to be used at night.

[0036] According to another aspect, a subject of the invention is the use of an extract or a cosmetic ingredient of Lavandula angustifolia as defined in the present application for the preparation of an anti-fatigue cosmetic composition for increasing the cutaneous production of melatonin in healthy skin and / or for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological alterations of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and / or for promoting or favoring the skin's protective mechanisms during the sleep phase of healthy skin.

[0037] Each aspect and embodiment described herein can be used together unless it is explicitly excluded or explicitly excluded from the context of the embodiment or aspect being considered. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0038] Figure 1 The protective effect of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention on the expression of various genes involved in the circadian rhythm against UV stress is shown in an in vitro study carried out on skin explants.

[0039] Figure 2 The effect of applying an extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention on the facial skin on the total sleep duration is shown.

[0040] Figure 3 The effect of applying an extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention on facial skin on the wakefulness time after the onset of sleep is shown.

[0041] Figure 4 The results of the evaluation of dark circles under the eyes at T12h, D7 and D28 are shown as relative percentages with respect to D0 for the group treated with the "active" cream (extract according to the invention) and the group treated with the placebo cream.

[0042] Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0044] Melatonin is a hormone produced by the pineal gland (also known as the pineal gland). In the presence of light, the secretion of melatonin is inhibited, while in darkness it is stimulated. Through melatonin, the pineal gland informs the brain about the relative duration of darkness and light periods not only within a 24-hour period (daily cycle), but also throughout the year (seasonal cycle). Melatonin is known as the "sleep hormone" and plays a central role in regulating the rhythm of the biological clock. This hormone is produced in various tissues. The process starts with tryptophan, which is converted into serotonin by various enzymes in order to finally convert serotonin into melatonin through the sequential action of arylalkylamine N-acetyltransferase and hydroxyindole-O-methyltransferase.

[0045] Melatonin can act on the skin via two different pathways: receptor-independent and receptor-dependent. Melatonin is able to exert cellular antioxidant effects, specifically by directly capturing free radicals, but also indirectly by increasing the activity of antioxidant enzymes. This molecule has the potential to cross cell membranes and can also play a role in maintaining and protecting mitochondrial activity.

[0046] Melatonin also has beneficial effects on the skin by activating melatonin receptors. Melatonin receptors are G protein-coupled receptors that exist in two subtypes in humans, MT1 and MT2. They are expressed not only in the brain but also in the periphery, especially in the skin.

[0047] As a peripheral tissue at the interface between the internal and external environments, the skin performs important functions to maintain body homeostasis and coordinate with environmental changes. Some of these functions undergo daily changes, such as temperature or water loss, suggesting the existence of specific circadian rhythms.

[0048] The applicant is interested in a particular extract of Lavandula angustifolia obtained by extraction using a terpene solvent. This extract and its method of obtaining are described in French patent application number 20 05014 (publication number FR 3 110 422). Application FR 3 110 422 states that this extract can be used as a skin soothing agent, in particular for relieving skin discomfort.

[0049] Surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that extracts of this type have other cosmetic activities, very different from those described in application FR 3 110 422. Thus, the Applicant has demonstrated that extracts of this type are able to significantly increase the expression of melatonin by keratinocytes in vitro.

[0050] The applicant has also shown that extracts of Lavandula angustifolia are able to prevent the increased expression of circadian clock genes (such as Cry2 and Per2) induced in skin explants after UV irradiation. The same effect was also observed for the Neat1 and Neat1-2 genes, which play a decisive role in regulating these circadian clock genes. Thus, extracts of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention are able to resynchronize or prevent changes in the skin circadian rhythm, such as those induced by exposure to environmental stress, such as overexposure to UV rays.

[0051] Surprisingly, the Applicant demonstrated that the application of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia in very low concentrations on the skin can improve the sleep quality of subjects suffering from minor sleep disturbances due to their lifestyle, in particular by increasing the total sleep time and reducing the wakefulness time after sleep onset.

[0052] Finally, the Applicant has also demonstrated that the extract according to the invention is able to significantly reduce dark circles around the eyes in subjects suffering from sleep cycle disturbances.

[0053] All these results therefore support the cosmetic use of the extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention as an anti-fatigue agent (by topical application), that is to say for the treatment or prevention of signs of skin fatigue, or as an agent for protecting the skin, in particular against alterations or desynchronizations of the circadian rhythm caused by environmental stress.

[0054] Extract of lavender according to the invention

[0055] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia obtained by extraction with a terpene solvent. The extract according to the invention may in particular be the absolute oil of Lavandula angustifolia. The extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention is preferably fat-soluble.

[0056] The term "lavender" is understood to refer to any plant species belonging to the genus Lavandula. Lavandula species include species of lavender and hybrids thereof, including lavender.

[0057] Species of lavender include, but are not limited to, lavender (Lavandula angustifolia Mill.) (also known as true lavender), broadleaf lavender (Lavandula latifolia Medik.) (also known as spike lavender), and French lavender (Lavandula stoechas L.) (also known as butterfly lavender).

[0058] The term "eye-catching lavender" is understood to mean a hybrid of the genus Lavandula, i.e. a hybrid of a plant belonging to the genus Lavandula, in particular a hybrid of lavender. Types of lavender include, but are not limited to: lavender (also known as true lavender), broadleaf lavender (also known as spike lavender) and French lavender (also known as butterfly lavender). Preferably, the hybrid of lavender corresponds to a hybrid obtained by crossing lavender and spike lavender. These hybrids are also known as Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia Medik., Lavandula hybrida and Lavandula xintermedia. Eye-catching lavender has a variety of variants, in particular the abrialis, grosso, super and sumian variants.

[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia used according to the invention is an absolute oil of Lavandula angustifolia obtained by maceration in a terpene solvent.

[0060] The extract used according to the invention may in particular be the absolute described in application FR 20 05014 and / or may be obtained by the process described in said application.

[0061] In particular, the extract according to the invention may be obtained from one or more aerial parts of the Lavender plant. It may be an extract obtained from the stems, flowers and / or flower tops of the Lavender plant. In certain embodiments, the Lavender plant may come from organic farming.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained from the flower tops, preferably fresh flower tops, of Lavandula angustifolia.

[0063] The extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention is cosmetically acceptable, that is to say it is non-toxic when used in standard concentrations in cosmetic products.

[0064] As mentioned above, the extracts according to the invention are generally absolute oils.

[0065] In the context of the present invention, the term "absolute" is understood to mean any fat-soluble extract of plant material, which can be obtained by a process comprising:

[0066] a) comprising the step of extracting the plant material with a volatile solvent to obtain an extract containing odor molecules and waxes, and

[0067] b) A step of removing wax present in the extract to obtain the absolute.

[0068] In the context of the present invention, step a) is preferably performed by macerating plant material from the Lavandula angustifolia plant in a terpene solvent.

[0069] The expression "terpene solvent or solvent enriched in terpene compounds" is understood to mean a solvent having a content of terpene derivatives of at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 85%, 90%, 95%, 98%, 99% or even 100% by weight.

[0070] Preferably, the terpene solvent is at least partially or completely removable from the impregnation medium by distillation at a temperature below 150°C under reduced pressure.

[0071] The terpene solvent is preferably liquid at ambient temperature (eg at 20-25°C).

[0072] The expression "terpene derivatives" is understood to mean terpenes and their derivatives, in particular terpenoids. Terpenes correspond to hydrocarbons resulting from the combination of a plurality of isoprene units. They are divided into several classes of compounds, depending on the number of isoprene units they contain. Terpenes include in particular monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes and triterpenes. Terpenes can be cyclic or acyclic.

[0073] Terpenoids are derivatives of terpenes that contain additional functional groups, in particular oxygen (e.g., ester, alcohol, ketone or ether oxide functions) and / or fewer alkyl groups (e.g., one less methyl group). Terpenoids include, but are not limited to, terpene alcohols (or monoterpene alcohols), terpene ketones and aldehydes, terpene ethers and terpene esters. Like terpenes, terpenoids are divided into several classes of compounds depending on the number of isoprene units they contain. Terpenoids can be cyclic or acyclic.

[0074] In a particular embodiment, at least 60% by weight of the terpene compounds present in the terpene solvent are selected from monoterpenes, monoterpenoids and mixtures thereof. For example, monoterpenes and monoterpenoids may account for at least 80% by weight of the terpene compounds present in the terpene solvent, preferably at least 85% by weight, or even 90%, 95% or 98% by weight. Preferably, the monoterpenoid compounds present in the solvent are selected from monoterpene alcohols and acetic acid esters of monoterpene alcohols.

[0075] As examples of monoterpenes, mention may be made of ocimene, myrcene, limonene, α-pinene, β-pinene, camphene, terpinene and p-cymene.

[0076] As examples of monoterpenoids, mention may be made of terpene alcohols, such as linalool, eucalyptol, menthol, nerol, geraniol, citronellol, borneol, terpineol and their acetates, or terpene ketones and aldehydes, such as citral, geranyl, citronellal, camphor and carvone.

[0077] The terpene solvent may consist of a mixture of terpene compounds, or consist essentially (ie at least 95%, 96%, 98%, 99% or 100%) of a single terpene compound.

[0078] Preferably, it is a solvent comprising a mixture of terpene compounds, wherein monoterpenes and monoterpenoids represent at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% or even at least 95% by weight of the total terpene compounds present in the solvent.

[0079] The terpene solvent may be a synthetic solvent, ie a solvent wherein at least one of the terpene compounds it comprises has been prepared by chemical synthesis.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, the terpene solvent is a natural solvent, i.e. a solvent prepared from plant, animal or microbial material. In other words, it is a bio-based solvent.

[0081] In a particular embodiment, the terpene solvent is prepared by a process for extracting natural materials, preferably plant materials known to contain terpene compounds, in particular monoterpene compounds. It may be a raw material derived from plants belonging to the Lamiaceae family (e.g. mint, sage, thyme, oregano, lavender, lavender or rosemary), the Pinaceae family (in particular pine (Pinus)), or the Rutaceae family, in particular species of the citrus family, such as lemon trees or orange trees. The starting plant material for the preparation of the terpene solvent may consist of bark, berries, flowers, leaves, zests, resins, in particular oleoresins of resinous trees, rhizomes, roots, wood, seeds, needles, or cell cultures, seedlings and combinations thereof. For example, it may be a terpene solvent prepared by extracting pine oleoresin, extracting citrus peels or orange peels, or extracting flowers and / or leaves of plants of the Lamiaceae family.

[0082] The terpene solvent may be prepared using any extraction method that allows the recovery of the volatile terpene compounds of interest, in particular monoterpenes and monoterpenoids. The extraction method may comprise one or more fractionation steps, such as one or more solid-liquid extraction steps using a volatile organic solvent, a step of extraction with a subcritical or supercritical fluid, in particular with supercritical CO2, a step of mechanical extraction, in particular by cold pressing, one or more distillation steps, such as hydrodistillation, steam distillation, fractional distillation or molecular distillation and combinations thereof. A variety of extraction and / or purification techniques may be combined to obtain a terpene solvent enriched in volatile monoterpene compounds.

[0083] In certain embodiments, the terpene solvent is a certified organic natural solvent, that is, it is prepared by an extraction method from raw materials derived from and certified for organic agriculture.

[0084] Step a) may be carried out as follows: Covering the plant material, preferably the flower tops of Lavandula angustifolia, with the terpene solvent as defined above.The plant material is macerated at a temperature between 40°C and 60°C for at least 90 minutes, typically 60 to 120 minutes.

[0085] The volume of solvent used should be sufficient to cover the plant material. The volume of solvent used is typically 1 to 10 litres per kg of plant material per maceration cycle and may vary depending on the starting plant material and the extractor used.

[0086] After impregnation, the liquid phase is recovered.

[0087] The impregnation step may be repeated, typically one to five times, for example one, two or three times. At the end of the first impregnation, the plant material is recovered and returned to the fresh or recovered solvent for impregnation. After impregnation, the liquid phase is recovered and combined with the liquid phase recovered at the end of the first impregnation. In each impregnation step, preferably a terpene solvent of the same composition is used. In the additional impregnation steps, the impregnation time may be shorter.

[0088] The terpene solvent is removed from the liquid phase by distillation under reduced pressure and is usually recovered for a new extraction. The distillation residue constitutes an extract in the form of a syrup or solid rich in odor molecules and waxes.

[0089] Step b) aims at removing the waxes present in the extract in order to obtain the absolute, ie the desired extract. Various strategies can be used to remove the waxes, ie to obtain the absolute on the one hand and the waxes on the other hand.

[0090] The absolute oil can be recovered by fractional extraction of the extract with supercritical CO2: the constituent molecules of the absolute oil are entrained by the supercritical fluid and are selectively recovered by adjusting the temperature and pressure of the supercritical fluid.

[0091] An alternative solution consists in removing the wax by exploiting the difference in the hot and cold solubility of the wax in alcohol. In this case, the extract is dissolved in alcohol or in an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing at least 90 vol% of alcohol. The resulting solution is homogenized, if necessary, at elevated temperature (e.g. at a temperature below 60°C) and then cooled to precipitate the wax. The wax can be removed by filtration. The clean oil is then obtained from the collected filtrate by removing the alcohol (e.g. by vacuum concentration).

[0092] In step b), a portion of the odor molecules of interest may be trapped in the precipitated wax and thus lost.

[0093] In order to improve the yield of the absolute oil, an additional step aimed at recovering the odor molecules trapped in the precipitated wax can be carried out. Generally, the precipitated wax is dissolved in an alcohol or aqueous-alcoholic solution, homogenized at high temperature, precipitated at a lower temperature and filtered. The filtrate obtained is combined with the filtrate from step b). This step can be repeated until a satisfactory wax consumption is obtained.

[0094] The alcohol used in step b) and in the optional wax consumption step can be any type of C2-C5 lower alcohol, in particular ethanol or an alcohol solution containing 90 vol% of alcohol. Preferably, bio-based ethanol (i.e. bioethanol) or an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing at least 90 vol% of bio-based ethanol is used in step b).

[0095] If desired, steps a) and / or b) may be repeated, for example in order to increase the yield.

[0096] The method for preparing an extract (or absolute) of lavender according to the invention may comprise one or more steps in addition to the steps described above, in particular a step of washing and / or grinding the starting plant material or an additional purification step, for example by extraction with supercritical CO2, fractionated molecular distillation, by precipitation and / or by extraction, in particular liquid-liquid or solid-liquid extraction.

[0097] In certain embodiments, the method does not comprise a purification step other than steps a) and b).

[0098] The method may also include the step of preparing the extract, for example by adding one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, particularly cosmetically acceptable carriers or supports. For example, the extract used according to the invention may be diluted in a suitable organic or vegetable solvent (e.g. triethyl citrate, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, triheptanoin or vegetable oil of an oleaginous plant), encapsulated in a carrier system (e.g. liposomes), or adsorbed on a solid carrier.

[0099] As mentioned above, in a preferred embodiment, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is obtained by macerating plant material derived from Lavandula angustifolia, preferably the flower tops of Lavandula angustifolia.

[0100] In a specific embodiment, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia used according to the present invention contains at least 8% of sesquiterpene compounds. Preferably, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia contains 10.0% to 20.0% of sesquiterpene compounds selected from β-caryophyllene, trans-β-farnesene, γ-cadinene and α-bisabolol.

[0101] The extract of Lavandula angustifolia used according to the invention may notably contain 3.0% to 7.0% of β-caryophyllene, 1.0% to 4.0% of bisabolol, at least 2.0% of trans-β-farnesene and at least 0.5% of γ-cadinene.

[0102] In certain embodiments, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia used according to the present invention contains less than 30.0%, preferably less than 25.0% linalool, eucalyptol, camphor and borneol. The content of linalool is generally less than 20.0%, preferably 6.0% to 18.0% or 8.0% to 16%.

[0103] The extract used according to the invention may further comprise at least 3.5% lavender acetate, preferably 4.0% to 7.0% lavender acetate. The absolute may also comprise at least 20%, preferably 25% to 40% linalyl acetate.

[0104] The above percentages correspond to the area percentage of the peak(s) corresponding to the compound(s) of interest relative to the total area of ​​the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis, preferably under the conditions described in Example 2.

[0105] In certain embodiments, an extract according to the invention (also referred to as a absolute according to the invention) comprises:

[0106] - 10.0% to 20.0% of a sesquiterpene compound selected from β-caryophyllene, trans-β-farnesene, γ-cadinene and α-bisabolol,

[0107] - up to 30.0%, preferably from 6.0% to 18.0% linalool,

[0108] - at least 3.5% lavandin acetate, preferably 4.0% to 7.0% lavandin acetate,

[0109] The percentage corresponds to the area percentage represented by the peak of the sesquiterpene compound relative to the total area of ​​the peak of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the neat oil.

[0110] Use according to the invention

[0111] The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia as described above as a skin protectant or anti-fatigue agent, and more particularly, for treating or preventing one or more signs of skin fatigue.

[0112] The extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention is typically incorporated into a cosmetic composition before application to the skin.

[0113] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "skin" and "cutaneous" refer to any part of human skin, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips and eyelids, the skin of the neck and the hands. Preferably, it is the skin on the face, including the area around the eyes and lips, and the skin on the neck.

[0114] In the context of the present invention, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is usually applied topically, preferably on the skin or mucous membranes. This is healthy skin or healthy mucous membranes, i.e. skin or mucous membranes without any wounds or skin lesions. In particular, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia or a cosmetic composition comprising it is applied to non-acne skin (i.e. skin that is not suffering from acne), which is free of any wounds, in particular wounds caused by insect bites, or any skin infections, such as those caused by fungi (mycosis), bacteria or protozoa. In other words, the extract or composition used according to the invention does not have a therapeutic effect on the skin when it is used according to the invention.

[0115] The extract according to the present invention is useful as a medicament exhibiting a cosmetic effect on the skin.

[0116] The expression "cosmetic action" is understood to mean any non-therapeutic action aimed at changing and / or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes (such as the lips) or protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals), for example preventing and / or correcting the phenomena associated with aging, or preventing or treating non-pathological effects caused by skin fatigue.

[0117] In certain embodiments, the expression "cosmetic effect" is understood to mean any non-therapeutic effect which aims to modify and / or improve the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes (eg lips).

[0118] According to certain embodiments, the “cosmetic effect” does not include the fact of protecting the skin and mucous membranes from external attacks (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals) and / or preventing and / or correcting the phenomena associated with aging thereof.

[0119] According to other embodiments, the extract according to the invention is not intended to provide an anti-aging effect, in particular an anti-wrinkle effect, and / or a soothing or protective effect on sensitive, reactive and / or topically prone skin.

[0120] The expression "anti-fatigue agent" is understood to mean a cosmetic agent capable of preventing, treating or alleviating the "cutaneous effects or signs" of fatigue, ie the effects of fatigue on the skin.

[0121] In the context of the present invention, the expression "skin effects or signs" is to be understood as any non-pathological change or alteration of the visual appearance or mechanical properties of the skin. In the context of the present invention, "skin effects or signs" are caused by or are related to fatigue.

[0122] The expression "preventing a sign or effect" is to be understood as the fact of slowing down or preventing the appearance of said sign or effect on the skin. The expression "treating a sign or effect" is to be understood as the fact of reducing, alleviating, alleviating, correcting or slowing down the development of said sign or effect on the skin.

[0123] Signs of skin fatigue can be, for example, loss of skin radiance, dull skin tone, pale skin tone, loss of evenness in skin tone, a haggard look, dark circles around the eyes, eye bags, puffy eyelids, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and combinations thereof.

[0124] In preferred embodiments, signs of skin fatigue can be, for example, loss of skin radiance, dull skin tone, pale skin tone, loss of uniformity in skin tone, a haggard look, dark circles around the eyes, eye bags, puffy eyelids, and combinations thereof.

[0125] According to one aspect, signs of skin fatigue do not include loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the skin effects of skin fatigue are selected from the group consisting of loss of skin radiance, dull skin tone, pale skin tone, loss of uniformity of skin tone, haggard look, dark circles around the eyes, eye bags, and puffy eyelids.

[0126] In certain embodiments, the lavender absolute used in accordance with the present invention may be used for at least one of the following purposes (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10):

[0127] a) prevent, treat or reduce dark circles and / or eye bags,

[0128] b) prevent, treat or reduce eyelid swelling,

[0129] c) prevent, treat or reduce skin pigmentation irregularities, including pigment spots caused by fatigue,

[0130] d) Even out or unify the skin tone of the face,

[0131] e) make the facial complexion brighter and / or more radiant and / or clearer,

[0132] f) prevent or treat dull complexion, pale skin and / or haggard features,

[0133] g) Makes the skin (especially the face) fresher and brighter,

[0134] h) Soothe facial features,

[0135] i) Makes skin look less tired, more relaxed and more refreshed,

[0136] j) Make eyes less tired, more relaxed, and brighter,

[0137] k) Promote or accelerate the recovery of the epidermis, especially the epidermis of the face,

[0138] l) Rejuvenate the skin, especially the facial skin,

[0139] m) Promotes a brighter complexion effect,

[0140] n) preventing, treating or reducing the loss of firmness of the skin, particularly on the face, and / or

[0141] o) Prevent, treat, slow down or reduce the appearance of wrinkles or fine lines.

[0142] It goes without saying that the non-pathological changes listed above are related to or caused by skin fatigue.

[0143] In the above list, preferred cosmetic effects sought are one or more of effects a) to g) and i) to m).

[0144] In the context of the present invention, fatigue that causes non-pathological changes or alterations in the skin can be of any type. It can be temporary or chronic fatigue. It can especially be fatigue caused by one or more factors, especially environmental factors. These factors may be lack of sleep, for example due to work rhythm or family situation (e.g. having children), sleep disorders or jet lag, poor or unbalanced diet and health, drinking, lack or excessive physical activity, sedentary lifestyle, overwork, high intensity activity or lack of activity at work, night work or staggered working hours, a lot of screen exposure, stress, anxiety or worry related to occupation or family life.

[0145] But it can also be caused by physiological conditions, such as pregnancy or menopause.

[0146] Preferably, the fatigue is not related to or caused by the subject's pathological condition.

[0147] In the context of the present invention, the expression "protective agent" is understood to mean a cosmetic agent capable of maintaining the circadian rhythm of the skin and / or preventing alterations in the circadian rhythm of the skin, such alterations being caused in particular by stress, for example environmental stress, such as exposure to sunlight, wind, humidity, dryness or chemicals or abrasive processes, radiation, etc., or stress related to lifestyle (jet lag, lack of sleep, night work, etc.).

[0148] By maintaining the circadian rhythm of the skin, in particular by preventing its alterations, the extract according to the invention can indirectly prevent skin effects caused by fatigue, or by exposure to environmental stress, or by lifestyle.

[0149] The extract according to the invention is able to prevent the increased expression of circadian clock genes such as Cry2 and Per2 in UV-irradiated skin explants. The same effect was also observed in the Neat1 and Neat1-2 genes, which play a decisive role in regulating these circadian clock genes.

[0150] According to one aspect, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the present invention is used to maintain or prevent changes in the circadian rhythm of the skin, such as those caused by exposure to environmental stress (e.g., overexposure to UV rays). The extract of Lavandula angustifolia can also be used as a cosmetic agent for resynchronizing the circadian rhythm of the skin. In particular, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the present invention can be used to regulate the expression of genes involved in the circadian cycle (e.g., the biological clock genes Cry2 and Per2 and / or Neat1 and Neat1-2).

[0151] It has also been shown that the extract of Lavandula angustifolia can increase the expression of melatonin in keratinocytes. Therefore, in a specific embodiment, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia can also be used as a cosmetic agent to increase the production of melatonin at the skin level. The extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the present invention can be used as an agent to enhance the effect of melatonin on the skin.

[0152] As shown in the Examples, applying an extract of Lavandula angustifolia to the skin at very low concentrations (particularly concentrations that are not detectable by the sense of smell) can improve sleep.

[0153] In an additional or alternative aspect, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is used to improve sleep, in particular to increase total sleep time and / or to reduce wake time after sleep onset (also known as WASO).

[0154] According to a further embodiment, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is used to promote or benefit skin protection mechanisms during the sleep phase.

[0155] According to a further aspect, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is used as a skin protectant or anti-fatigue agent in subjects exposed to fatigue, particularly chronic fatigue.

[0156] In a preferred embodiment, the extracts according to the invention should not be used on skins known to be sensitive, reactive or intolerant, or on skins with an atopic tendency.

[0157] "Sensitive, reactive or intolerant skin" is understood to mean skin characterized by a disproportionate reactivity to external factors causing skin discomfort. This increased reactivity may be caused by non-pathological changes in the barrier function of the skin, thereby reducing the tolerance threshold of the skin relative to external stimuli. "Skin with atopic tendency" is understood to mean the sensitive skin of subjects suffering from atopic dermatitis and / or with allergic tendency (i.e. with a history of allergies and / or with a family history of allergies). More generally, the absolute oil according to the invention is not used as an anti-inflammatory agent or a soothing agent or a sedative (i.e. an agent capable of relieving (i.e. alleviating or preventing) skin discomfort).

[0158] In the use according to the invention, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is incorporated as a cosmetic active agent into a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask, serum or lotion, as described above. The concentration of the extract in such a cosmetic composition is advantageously low, so that it cannot be detected by smell. Typically, the concentration is between 0.0005% and 0.05% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 0.01% by weight, of the absolute oil.

[0159] It goes without saying that the use according to the invention is intended for individuals exposed to fatigue as defined above. The individual to whom the invention is directed may be of any age and sex. In a preferred embodiment, it is a subject less than 65 years old. It may be, for example, a woman or man between 25 and 65 years old, in particular between 25 and 55 years old. For example, it may be a woman between 25 and 45 years old.

[0160] Cosmetic composition for use according to the invention

[0161] The extract of Lavandula angustifolia described in this application is generally incorporated as a cosmetic agent, more specifically as a regenerating, repairing or anti-fatigue agent.

[0162] In other words, the extract is usually applied to the skin of the individual to be treated by means of a cosmetic composition.

[0163] A cosmetic ingredient or precursor composition comprising the extract may be prepared in advance, so as to then be incorporated into a cosmetic composition.

[0164] Such a cosmetic ingredient or such a precursor composition may be, for example, a composition comprising 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia as described herein in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0165] The cosmetically acceptable carrier may be of any type. For example, it may be a cosmetically acceptable solvent, in particular a lower alcohol, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, triheptanoin, an aqueous solution thereof or a mixture thereof.

[0166] Preferably, the carrier is pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.

[0167] In a specific embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention consists essentially of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention in a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin, or consists of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention in a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin. The extract of Lavandula angustifolia is preferably present in a content of 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0168] The cosmetic composition used according to the present invention comprises the extract of Lavandula angustifolia (preferably as a cosmetic agent) or the cosmetic ingredient or the precursor composition described above, in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0169] The cosmetically acceptable excipients present in the composition may be selected from diluents, dispersants, gelling agents, emollients, vectorizing agents (e.g. polycationic polymers, phospholipids, unilamellar or multilamellar liposomes, liposomes, ethosomes, lamellar systems, nanosomes, lipid or polymer vesicles, nanospheres, microparticles or nanoparticles of natural or synthetic polymers, hydrogels), gums, resins, solvents (in particular lower alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol and propanediol), fillers (e.g. modified and polymerized starches, titanium dioxide or metal stearates), preservatives, essential oils, pearlescent agents, dyes, odor absorbers, pH regulators or neutralizers, lubricants, thickeners, hydrating agents. Soluble substances such as surfactants, including anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, humectants, wetting agents, stabilizers, fillers, dispersants, fragrances, organic or mineral pigments such as iron oxides, oily agents such as oils or fats of plant origin, fats of animal origin, synthetic oils such as petroleum jelly, silicone oils (cyclomethicone), fatty alcohol esters, fluorinated oils, waxes, modified clays, bentonites, metal salts of fatty acids, silica, polyethylene, mica, preservatives, antibacterial agents, carriers (such as mineral water, spring water or floral water) and / or other substances commonly used in preparations in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical fields.

[0170] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises 0.0005% to 0.05%, preferably 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia.

[0171] More specifically, the cosmetic composition may comprise:

[0172] - 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia, and

[0173] - 99.95% to 99.9995% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

[0174] In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight of the precursor composition.

[0175] More specifically, the cosmetic composition may comprise:

[0176] - 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, of said precursor composition, and

[0177] - 95% to 99.5% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

[0178] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more additional active agents having a cosmetic effect. The expression "active ingredient having a cosmetic effect" or "active agent having a cosmetic effect" or "cosmetic or active agent having a cosmetic effect" is to be understood as a compound capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on the skin or its appendages. The expression "cosmetic effect" is to be understood as any non-therapeutic effect intended to modify and / or improve the visual appearance and mechanical properties of the skin or mucous membranes (e.g. lips), to protect them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals), to prevent and / or correct phenomena associated with aging thereof, or to prevent or treat the effects of stress or fatigue on the skin.

[0179] Examples of such agents are, inter alia, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-aging agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, soothing agents, anti-redness agents, decongestants, scrubs or exfoliants, matting agents, sebum regulating agents, whitening active agents, anti-dark spot active agents, agents for reducing dark circles and eye bags, anti-stress agents, anti-fatigue agents, anti-pollution active agents, tautening agents, sunscreens and sunblocks, and combinations thereof.

[0180] Of note, the cosmetic composition may comprise tocopherol and / or plant extracts, such as flaxseed extract, Vibrio exopolysaccharide extract, peptides such as trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2.

[0181] In a specific embodiment, the cosmetic composition may include an active agent selected from the group consisting of anti-wrinkle agents, anti-redness agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, soothing agents, sebum regulating agents, anti-dark spot or whitening agents, firming agents, anti-pollution active agents, dark circle or puffiness correctors, sunscreens or sunblocks, and combinations thereof.

[0182] As examples of anti-pollution agents, mention may be made of extracts of Chrysantellum Indicum, polysaccharides (in particular marine polysaccharides from fermentation cultures of Alteromonas) and Nigari salts.

[0183] As examples of dark circles correcting agents, mention may be made of golden chamomile extracts or extracts of algae, in particular Ascophyllum nodosum or Asparagopsis armata, and sulfated polysaccharides.

[0184] As examples of moisturizers, mention may be made of urea, oxyproline (PCA) and its derivatives, in particular its salts, such as arginine PCA, chitosan PCA, its copper (copper PCA), magnesium (magnesium PCA), sodium (sodium PCA) or zinc salts, ethylhexyl PCA, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts and other glycosaminoglycans, fructose, glucose, isomaltose, lactose, trehalose, polydextrose, saccharose (sucrose), maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol and other carbohydrates and derivatives, polyethylene glycols (such as PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-10, PEG-12 or PEG-14), glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, betaine, citrulline, collagen and its derivatives, histidine, silk hydrolysates, keratin hydrolysates or soy hydrolysates, plant extracts rich in polysaccharides and / or polyphenols, such as aloe vera, Centaurea cyanus, cyanus), polysaccharide-rich extracts, especially extracts produced from fermentation media of marine microorganisms (such as Alteromonas), and combinations thereof.

[0185] As examples of anti-aging agents, mention may be made of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosaminoglycans and their derivatives, Alsophila spinulosa polysaccharides, collagen, linseed (flax) extract, peptides such as hexanoyl tetrapeptide-3 and trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, extracts of Polygonum multiflorum, extracts of brown algae (especially Ascophyllum nodosum), extracts of ferns (especially Alsophila sphaerocarpa).

[0186] As examples of anti-stress agents, mention may be made of Rosality TM products (a combination of rose water and rose essential oil) and extracts of pink cistus, such as those sold under the brand name IBR-Chill TM For sale.

[0187] As examples of soothing agents, mention may be made of allantoin, extracts of aloe vera, extracts of birch (e.g. betula alba), extracts of willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium), extracts of chestnut (e.g. Casteneasativa), extracts of cornflower (e.g. Centaurea cyanus), extracts of centella (e.g. Centella asiatica), extracts of horsetail (e.g. Equisetum arvense), extracts of fennel (e.g. Foeniculum vulgare), extracts of witch hazel (e.g. Hamamelis virginiana), extracts of ivy (e.g. Hedera helix), extracts of roselle, extracts of lily (e.g. Lilium candidum), extracts of mallow (e.g. Malva sylvestris), extracts of thyme (e.g. sylvestris), extracts of lemon balm (e.g., lemon balm), extracts of skullcap (e.g., Scutellaria baicalensis), extracts of mimosa (e.g., Mimosa tenuiflora), extracts of Potentilla (e.g., Potentilla pubescens), extracts of oligosaccharides or oligosaccharides (e.g., flax), peptides (e.g., palmitoyl tripeptide-8), polysaccharide extracts (particularly extracts of exopolysaccharides produced by fermentation medium of Alteromonas), and combinations thereof.

[0188] As examples of antioxidants, mention may be made of HMR (hydroxymethylresorcinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamin B9, histidine hydrochloride or extracts of willowherb ( Epilobium augustifolium ). Active ingredients having an antioxidant effect and of the vitamin type are generally used in a percentage by weight of at least 1% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0189] As examples of sebum regulating agents, mention may be made of flaxseed lignans, rice flour, zinc gluconate, sarcosine, extracts of Ceylon cinnamon bark, extracts of avocado, extracts of lemon myrtle, and combinations thereof.

[0190] As anti-redness agents, mention may be made of saponins, flavonoids, ruscosapogenin, esculin, and extracts containing them, for example extracts of Ruscus, and certain essential oils, for example of lavender or rosemary.

[0191] As examples of anti-dark spot agents, there may be mentioned extracts such as liquorice (Glycyrrhyza glabra), extracts of jackfruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus), extracts of sorrel (R. occidentalis), extracts of plants belonging to the genus citrus, resveratrol, peptides such as oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and combinations thereof.

[0192] In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises 0% to 30% by weight, for example 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents.

[0193] In a more specific embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

[0194] - 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia,

[0195] - 69.95% to 99.9995% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, and

[0196] - 0 to 30% by weight, for example 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents.

[0197] In a more specific embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

[0198] - 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight, of a precursor composition or a cosmetic ingredient as described above,

[0199] - 65% to 99.5% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, and

[0200] - 0 to 30% by weight, for example 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents.

[0201] The extract, precursor composition or cosmetic ingredients of the eye-catching lavender described in the present application can be incorporated into any type of cosmetic composition. Preferably, it is a cosmetic composition with a form suitable for topical application, especially suitable for application on the skin. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be of any type. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is selected from aqueous solutions, water-alcohol solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triplet: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions (especially O / W nanoemulsions, whose droplet size is generally less than 100nm), aqueous gels, or small spheres of fat phase in aqueous phases. A suspension, preferably in an aqueous or water-alcohol medium, a liposome suspension, a powder, a lotion, an emulsion, a cream, an ointment, a gel, a foam, a balm and an ointment.

[0202] In a specific embodiment, the cosmetic composition is a cream, a balm, a mask, a serum or a lotion. In a preferred mode, the cosmetic composition is a serum, a cream, a mask or a balm, preferably used at night.

[0203] Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic method for preventing or treating signs of skin fatigue in a subject, said method comprising applying on the skin a cosmetically effective amount of a Lavandula angustifolia extract as described above, or a cosmetic composition as described above.

[0204] The cosmetic method according to the invention has the aim of treating or preventing one or more skin effects of fatigue, preferably selected from changes in the skin's complexion, in particular pallor, dullness, loss of radiance or loss of uniformity of complexion, in particular the appearance of pigmentation spots, a haggard look, the appearance of bags under the eyes and / or dark circles around the eyes, puffiness of the eyelids, loss of density, loss of firmness, the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles and combinations thereof.

[0205] According to the method of the present invention, any of the following effects can be obtained in a subject exposed to fatigue:

[0206] -Prevent, treat or reduce dark circles and / or eye bags,

[0207] -Prevent, treat or reduce eyelid puffiness,

[0208] -Prevent, treat or reduce skin pigmentation irregularities, including pigmentation spots caused by fatigue,

[0209] - Even out or unify the skin tone of the face,

[0210] - Makes the facial complexion brighter and / or more radiant and / or clearer,

[0211] -Prevent or treat dull, pale and / or haggard complexion,

[0212] - Makes the skin (especially the face) fresher and brighter,

[0213] - Soothes facial features,

[0214] - Makes skin look less tired, more relaxed and more refreshed,

[0215] - Makes eyes less tired, more relaxed, and brighter,

[0216] - Promote or accelerate the recovery of the epidermis, especially the epidermis of the face,

[0217] - Rejuvenate the skin, especially the facial skin,

[0218] - Promotes a brighter complexion, and / or

[0219] -Prevent, treat, slow down or reduce the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles.

[0220] In the above list, preferred cosmetic effects sought are one or more of effects a) to g) and i) to m).

[0221] In the cosmetic method and use according to the invention, the dosage and frequency of application of the combination according to the invention vary according to the desired cosmetic effect, the characteristics of the individual, in particular their gender, age and skin type. Typically, the extract of Lavandula angustifolia or a cosmetic composition comprising the extract can be applied to the area to be treated once a day (preferably before going to bed) for several weeks or even months, for example at least 3 months. For example, patients can apply a dosage of 1 g to 2 g of the cosmetic composition to their face at night.

[0222] General Definition:

[0223] Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application belongs.

[0224] The present application is not limited by the embodiments of the methods, uses and compositions described herein, and all methods, uses and compositions similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the embodiments of the present application.

[0225] The section headings and themes provided herein should not be considered as limitations on the various aspects or embodiments of the present application. The section headings and themes used herein are for organizational purposes only and should not be interpreted as limiting the invention described. All defined terms are more fully defined by reference to the entire application.

[0226] All publications, including patent documents and scientific papers, mentioned in this application are incorporated by reference in their entirety to the same extent as if each individual publication was individually incorporated by reference. Citation of these publications should in no way be construed as an admission that these publications constitute prior art. If definitions described in this application are contrary to or inconsistent with definitions described in patents, applications, published applications, and other publications incorporated herein by reference, the definitions described in this application take precedence over the definitions incorporated herein by reference.

[0227] All features described in this application may be combined in any combination. Each feature described in this application may be replaced by another feature having the same purpose, or an equivalent or similar purpose. Therefore, unless otherwise expressly stated, each feature disclosed is merely an example of a general series of equivalent or similar features.

[0228] Definitions of terms may appear throughout the specification. It should be understood that this specification is not limited to the specific embodiments described, as these embodiments may of course vary. It should also be understood that the terminology used herein has the purpose of describing specific embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting.

[0229] It should be noted that, as used herein and in the appended claims, the singular forms "a(n)", "one", and "the" include plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. For example, "a(n)" or "one" includes "at least one" and "one or more".

[0230] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "comprises," and "composed of" are synonymous with "including," "includes," "containing," "contains," and grammatical variations thereof. These terms are inclusive or open-ended and do not exclude the presence of additional members, elements, or process steps not recited.

[0231] Where a numerical range is provided, it is understood that every intervening value between the upper and lower limit of that range is specifically disclosed and encompassed within this specification.

[0232] Other aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the following examples, which are to be considered illustrative and in no way limiting. Example

[0233] Example 1: Preparation of extract of Lavandula angustifolia.

[0234] Fresh flower tops from organically grown eye-catching lavender (Lavandula angustifolia Mill x Lavandulalatifolia Medik) are macerated in a bio-based terpene solvent (about 2 to 10 L per kg of flower) containing about 80% to 90% of monoterpene compounds (the solvent is also certified organic) at a temperature of 50°C for at least 90 minutes. The mixture is decanted and the liquid phase and the flowers are separated. The flowers are returned to the terpene solvent and macerated again at 50°C for 90 minutes. The liquid phases of the two macerations are combined and the terpene solvent is distilled under reduced pressure to obtain an extract.

[0235] The extract is then dissolved in ethanol. The mixture is homogenized, slightly heated and then cooled to precipitate the wax. The mixture is then filtered.

[0236] Recover the filtrate. Dissolve the wax in ethanol. Homogenize the mixture with heat, cool to precipitate the wax, and filter. Repeat this step twice.

[0237] The collected filtrates were combined and the solvent was evaporated under reduced pressure to obtain the extract (also called neat oil) with an overall yield generally ranging from 9% to 16%.

[0238] Example 2: Characterization of extracts of Lavandula angustifolia

[0239] -GC / FID analysis

[0240] The extracts were characterized by gas chromatography coupled to a flame ionization detector (GC / FID). The analytical conditions were as follows:

[0241] GC / FID analysis was performed on an Agilent 6890 machine (Agilent Technologies) equipped with a flame ionization detector (FID), an automatic liquid injector, and a HP-1MS capillary column (100% dimethylpolysiloxane, 60 m x 0.15 mm id, film thickness 0.25 μm; Agilent Technologies). The oven temperature was maintained at 60°C for 10 min, then programmed from 60°C to 300°C at 2°C / min, and finally at 300°C for 10 min. The temperatures of the injector and detector were 250°C and 300°C, respectively; H2 (1.0 ml / min) was used as the carrier gas; the sample was injected in split mode (1:50); and the injection volume was 0.1 ml. The flow rates of O2, H2, and make-up gas for FID were 350, 35, and 20 ml / min, respectively.

[0242] The following table shows the distribution of volatile compounds present in the extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the invention. For each compound, the percentage indicated corresponds to the area percentage of the peak corresponding to the compound of interest relative to the total area of ​​the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis.

[0243] Eye-catching lavender extract Linalyl acetate 25-40% Linalool 8%-16% Camphor 1.5%-4% Borneol 2%-4% Lavandulyl acetate 4%-5% β-Caryophyllene 3%-6% trans-β-farnesene >2% γ-Cadrinene >0.5% α-Bisabolol 1.5%-3.5%

[0244] Table 1: Composition of the extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the present invention (GC / FID analysis)

[0245] Example 3: Increased Melatonin Production in Keratinocytes

[0246] The aim of this study was to detect the presence of melatonin in cell cultures of keratinocytes and to demonstrate that an extract of Lavandula angustifolia can increase the synthesis of the latter.

[0247] plan:

[0248] At t = 0, keratinocytes were seeded into culture flasks and incubated for 5 days, with the culture medium replaced after 4 days. At t = 5 days, the cells expanded to ~20 x 10 6 After 10 cells / flask, the medium was then replaced with treatment medium containing or not containing (control) the extract from Example 1 (0.0005%), and the cells were incubated for 48 hours. All experimental conditions were performed with n=2. At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatant was collected. The cells were separated and, after a centrifugation step, the cell pellet was washed with phosphate buffered saline (PBS) solution and freeze-dried at -80°C.

[0249] Melatonin was extracted from the cell pellet and quantified by LC-MS / MS. After returning to ambient temperature, the pellet was washed twice with 250 μL of water and then placed in a test tube. Then an internal standard solution (100 μL), 1 mL of saturated saline (sodium chloride) solution and 3 mL of dichloromethane were added. The mixture was stirred at ambient temperature for 10 min and centrifuged at 4500 rpm for 3 min. The organic lower phase was recovered and placed in a new test tube. Then dry evaporated at 40°C under nitrogen. The aqueous upper phase was recovered and 3 mL of dichloromethane was added. The mixture was stirred at ambient temperature for 10 min and centrifuged at 4500 rpm for 5 min. The organic lower phase was recovered and mixed with the previous organic phase. Then dry evaporated at 40°C under nitrogen. The residue was suspended in 500 μL of methanol to dissolve and then dry evaporated at 40°C under nitrogen. The residue was then suspended in 50 μL of methanol for analysis. The analytical method used was liquid chromatography connected to MS / MS detection.

[0250] The equipment used was as follows: 1100 series (Agilent) HPLC system connected to a CTC injector and a Quattro Micro API (Waters) triple quadrupole mass spectrometer detector, Masslynx 4.0 software (control, acquisition, execution - Waters). The parameters used were as follows: column: RP18, column temperature: 30 °C, mobile phase: water + 0.2% acetic acid / methanol + 0.2% acetic acid, elution mode: gradient, injection volume: 20 μL, execution time: 20 minutes, MS detection: ESI, polarity: positive, acquisition mode: MRM, mass spectrum transitions m / z: melatonin: 232->174; melatonin d4: 236->177.

[0251] result:

[0252] Melatonin was detected in NHEK cells, with an average of 30.95 ng / 20x10 6 When the cells were treated with the absolute oil of Lavender, an increase of 2.10x10 melatonin was observed compared to the control. 6 ng / cell (+6.8%).

[0253] Example 4: Regulation of circadian rhythm genes in skin explants

[0254] plan : The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of the extract according to the invention on skin explants and to demonstrate its protective activity on various circadian rhythm genes of the skin.

[0255] 51 explants with an average diameter of 11 mm (+1 mm) were prepared on abdominal plastic surgery originating from 46-year-old Caucasian women (reference: P2471-AB46, phototype II-III (according to Fitzpatrick skin color classification)). The explants were kept alive in BEM medium (BIO-EC explant medium) at 37° C. in a humidified atmosphere containing 5% CO2 for 2 days. On day 0, day 1 and day 2, the explants were treated with placebo ("E-UV" or "E" group) or the extract according to the invention ("extract-UV" group) at 1 cm per cm on the skin surface of the corresponding explants. 2 Explant 2 μL (≈2 mg / cm 2 On day 2, the culture medium was replaced with HBSS solution, and then the explants were irradiated by UV rays (“E-UV” group and “extract-UV” group) or not irradiated (“E” group”), with a UVA dose of 13.5 J / cm 2 , equivalent to 3 MED (minimum erythema dose), and the UVB dose is 0.15 J / cm 2, equivalent to 1 MED. At the end of irradiation, culture medium was added instead of HBSS. On day 3, explants were fixed in RNAlater and then pre-treated using ReliaPrep from Promega. TM RNA was extracted using the RNA tissue miniprep system (Fibrin). RNA quality and concentration were assessed before the reverse transcription step using iScript (Bio-Rad, 20 μl / reaction). ΔCq was calculated with the aid of a spike control. The benchmarks for evaluating each qPCR reaction using CFX Manager 3.1 software were as follows:

[0256] - Logarithmic amplification curve for each sequence of interest.

[0257] - Melting curve is the fluorescence intensity recorded after the last cycle. The temperature was increased from 65℃ to 96℃ with an increase of 0.5℃ every 5 seconds.

[0258] - A curve representing the inverse of the derivative of the fluorescence signal as a function of temperature (in °C) allows verification of individual amplicons.

[0259] All samples were analyzed for gene expression profiles. For quantification, cycle numbers were normalized to the reference gene B2M:

[0260] (i) Cq (relative amount) for each sample and each gene = E(gene)(Cq(control) - Cq(treated))

[0261] E = efficiency of primer pair = (% efficiency * 0.01) + 1

[0262] Cq(Control) = quantitation threshold calculated by CFX Maestro in "Regression" mode for the control condition.

[0263] Cq(Treatment) = quantitation threshold calculated by CFX Maestro in "Regression" mode for the Treatment condition.

[0264] Gene = Target Gene

[0265] (ii) Normalized target gene expression = NE

[0266] NE = Expression of normalized sample (gene) = Cq sample (gene) / ((Cq sample (reference 1) * Cq sample (reference 2)) 1 / n

[0267] Cq = relative amount

[0268] The denominator corresponds to the normalization factor including two reference genes: ref 1 = B2M

[0269] Gene = Target Gene

[0270] For each gene of interest, at each kinetic time point, the value between the treatment samples of triplicates was calculated relative to the control samples of the matching explants of triplicates. If gene expression shows an increase greater than or equal to 1.5 (fold change ≥ 1.5) relative to the control, then it is considered that the gene is induced. Similarly, if gene expression shows a significant reduction relative to the control, then it is considered that the gene is suppressed. In addition, when keeping homogeneous gene regulation between triplicate biology, P value < 0.05 (according to T inspection) is represented by an asterisk.

[0271] result : During the study, a strong increase in the expression of the UV-induced genes Cry2, Per2, as well as Neat1 and Neat1-2 was observed compared to the condition without UV rays (E group) (E-UV control group, not treated with the extract according to the invention). This effect was prevented by treating the explants with the extract according to the invention (extract-UV group). Specifically, the extract can significantly prevent the increase in expression of several genes (such as Cry2, Per2) that regulate the circadian cycle induced by exposure to UV rays, shifting it to the expression level of condition E. This shows that the extract according to the invention can protect the skin from the disorders of the circadian cycle of the skin induced by environmental stress. In addition, a strong and significant inhibition of the expression of the genes Neat1 and Neat1-2 was also observed compared to the UV condition. These genes are significantly involved in regulating the circadian cycle genes to achieve their rhythmicity.

[0272] All these results support the use of the extract according to the invention as an anti-fatigue, protective agent for the skin ( Figure 1 ).

[0273]

[0274] Table 2: Results of gene modulation in skin explants

[0275] Example 5: Sleep Improvement

[0276] Methods: Thirty-two healthy participants (16 males, 22-56 years old, median age 41.5 years old) who self-reported mild sleep disturbances caused by lifestyle-related factors but had no clinical sleep disorder diagnosis were enrolled.

[0277] The study consisted of the evaluation of 2 samples of facial creams (1 "active" cream and 1 "placebo" cream), applied over a 3-week period:

[0278] - "Active" cream: a fragrance-free universal cream containing 1% of a precursor composition containing pentylene glycol 5, 0.5 wt. % of the extract from Example 1 in Minasolve,

[0279] - "Placebo" cream: a fragrance-free, general purpose face cream (see Example 6, Table 3 below), containing only 1% pentylene glycol 5,Minasolve).

[0280] Equipment: For objective sleep measurements, participants used the SleepScore Max device (SleepScoreLabs, Carlsbad, CA), a contactless monitoring device that uses breathing signals and movement detection to detect sleep and which is validated by polysomnography (PSG), a standard method for measuring sleep. All self-reported data were recorded using Compusense, an online data collection software.

[0281] Study Design and Procedures:

[0282] - A contextual, randomized and balanced study using a fragrance-free control cream.

[0283] - Participants applied the cream in their natural sleeping environment before bedtime.

[0284] -The study lasted from Sunday evening to Friday morning for 3 consecutive weeks.

[0285] - Participants used different samples each week. A control sample was used during the second week. Table 3 shows an overview of the study design.

[0286] - Each night of the study, participants filled out daily questionnaires and had their sleep monitored using a SleepScore Max device.

[0287]

[0288] Table 3: Description of the protocol

[0289] Data Analysis:

[0290] Objective and self-reported nighttime sleep data were analyzed among participants using mixed models using JMP Pro (version 15) statistical software. An alpha level of 0.05 was used for all statistical tests. Comparisons were made between the control and active creams. Percentages were derived from calculations relative to the control condition.

[0291] Statistical methods:

[0292] The obtained data and percentage changes were subjected to a two-way Student's t-test for paired data. The statistical significance value was p < 0.05.

[0293] result:

[0294] The extract of Lavender according to the invention significantly increased total sleep duration compared to the control (p<0.05). On average, participants who used the control cream without fragrance slept 6.6 hours (393 minutes) per night, while participants who used the cream containing the extract according to the invention slept 6.8 hours (408 minutes) per night. In addition, the wakefulness time after sleep onset (also called WASO) of the participants who used the control cream without fragrance was on average 30 minutes per night, while the wakefulness time after sleep onset of the participants who used the cream containing the extract according to the invention was 25 minutes (408 minutes) per night. Figure 2 and 3 ).

[0295] Example 6: Cosmetic products incorporating extracts for use according to the invention

[0296] A) A night cream comprising 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of an extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1 in pentylene glycol

[0297]

[0298] Table 4: Composition of night cream

[0299] B) Anti-fatigue cream comprising 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1 in triheptanoin.

[0300]

[0301]

[0302] Table 5: Composition of anti-fatigue cream

[0303] Example 7: Clinical Trial

[0304] plan : A clinical trial was conducted to confirm the anti-fatigue effect of the extract according to the invention on dark circles around the eyes. 44 volunteers were equally divided into two groups (22 in the test group: "active" cream, 22 in the placebo group: placebo cream).

[0305] The volunteers who registered were people who worked staggered hours, young people who were very socially active and used to going out, staying up late or traveling (jet lag), or young mothers. Therefore, the volunteers had disrupted sleep cycles but did not receive treatment for sleep disorders.

[0306] Two creams were tested:

[0307] - "Active" cream: a fragrance-free universal face cream comprising 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract from Example 1 (anti-fatigue cream from Table 5 above) in triheptanoin,

[0308] - "Placebo" cream: also a fragrance-free, generic face cream, but containing only 1% triheptanoin (ie no extracts).

[0309] Dark circles were assessed based on raw images of each volunteer taken with a bio-blue light scanner. The images were processed with specific software and dark circles were measured using the Individual Typology Angle (ITA°) at different time points: 12h, 7 days and 28 days later.

[0310] Statistical methods:

[0311] Each time, a statistical study was performed to analyze the significance of the parameter evolution. Two-way A-NOVA was performed on the obtained data and the percentage changes. The statistical significance value was p<0.05 ( # p<0.1; *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001).

[0312] result:

[0313] Figure 4 The evaluation results of dark circles are shown. Figure 4 It was shown that the dark circles under the eyes of the subjects treated with the active cream were rapidly, gradually and significantly reduced compared to the subjects treated with the placebo cream. The fat-soluble extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to the present invention can significantly reduce the dark circles under the eyes of the subjects suffering from sleep cycle disorders.

[0314] The scope of the present invention is not intended to be limited to the specific embodiments described, and these embodiments are provided, for example, to illustrate various aspects of the present invention. According to the description and teaching of the present application, various modifications or variations of the described compositions and methods will become apparent. Such modifications can be made without departing from the true scope and spirit of the present application, and are intended to be included in the scope of the present patent application. Although the present invention can be described in conjunction with specific preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the claimed invention should not be overly limited to such specific embodiments. In fact, various modifications or variations of the embodiments of the present invention that are apparent to those skilled in the art in the field of cosmetics or related fields are intended to fall within the scope of the following claims.

[0315] Exemplary embodiments:

[0316] 1. A cosmetic use of an extract of lavender obtained by macerating a lavender plant material in a terpene solvent as a protective cosmetic agent or an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for healthy skin.

[0317] 2. The cosmetic use according to embodiment 1, characterized in that the extract of lavender is an extract of a hybrid: the hybrid is selected from Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia Medik., Lavandula hybrida and Lavandula x intermedia.

[0318] 3. The cosmetic use according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from the group consisting of loss of skin radiance, dull skin tone, pale skin tone, loss of uniformity of skin tone, haggard look, dark circles around the eyes, eye bags, puffy eyelids, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness and combinations thereof.

[0319] 4. The cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 3, wherein the extract is used as a cosmetic agent for promoting or improving the protection of the skin against environmental stress.

[0320] 5. The cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4, wherein the extract is further used to improve sleep, in particular to increase the total sleep time, and / or to reduce the wakefulness time after the onset of sleep.

[0321] 6. The cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 5, wherein the extract is used as a cosmetic agent for resynchronizing or preventing alterations in the circadian rhythm of the skin, in particular after exposure to environmental stress.

[0322] 7. The cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 6, wherein the extract is used to increase the production of melatonin at the skin level.

[0323] 8. The cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 7, characterized in that the extract of Lavandula angustifolia contains at least 8.0% of sesquiterpene compounds, which percentage corresponds to the percentage of the area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of ​​the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the absolute oil.

[0324] 9. The cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 8, characterized in that the extract of lavender comprises:

[0325] - 10.0% to 20.0% of a sesquiterpene compound selected from β-caryophyllene, trans-β-farnesene, γ-cadinene and α-bisabolol,

[0326] - up to 30.0%, preferably from 6.0% to 18.0% of linalool,

[0327] - at least 3.5% lavandin acetate, preferably 4.0% to 7.0% lavandin acetate,

[0328] This percentage corresponds to the area percentage represented by the peak of the sesquiterpene compound relative to the total area of ​​the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the neat oil.

[0329] 10. The cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 9, characterized in that the extract can be obtained by a process comprising:

[0330] - comprising the steps of macerating lavender plant material, preferably flower tops, in a terpene solvent, recovering a liquid phase after maceration and removing the terpene solvent from the liquid phase, so as to obtain an extract, and

[0331] - A step of removing wax present in the extract to obtain an extract.

[0332] 11. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 10, characterized in that the terpene solvent comprises at least 85% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, of terpene compounds.

[0333] 12. The cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 11, wherein the extract is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, a balm, a mask or a serum.

[0334] 13. The cosmetic use according to embodiment 12, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of the extract.

[0335] 14. The cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 12 and 13, wherein the cosmetic composition is selected from aqueous solutions, aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triplet: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, especially O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or globules-assisted dispersions of a fat phase in an aqueous phase, suspensions, preferably suspensions in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, liposomal suspensions, powders, lotions, emulsions, creams, ointments, gels, foams and salves.

[0336] 15. A cosmetic method for preventing or treating signs of skin fatigue in a subject, said method comprising applying on the skin a cosmetically effective amount of an extract as defined in one of embodiments 1 to 2 and 8 to 11.

Claims

1. A cosmetic use of a fat-soluble extract of lavender obtained by macerating lavender plant material in a terpene solvent as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for increasing the skin production of melatonin in healthy skin.

2. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, wherein the extract is further used as a cosmetic agent for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological changes in the circadian rhythm of healthy skin and / or as a cosmetic agent for promoting or favoring the skin protection mechanisms of healthy skin during the sleep phase.

3. The cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the extract is further used to improve sleep, in particular to increase total sleep duration, and / or to reduce wakefulness time after the onset of sleep in fatigued subjects.

4. The cosmetic use of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from the group consisting of loss of skin radiance, dull skin tone, pale skin tone, loss of uniformity of skin tone, haggard look, dark circles around the eyes, eye bags, puffy eyelids, and combinations thereof.

5. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that The extract of lavender is an extract of a hybrid species: the hybrid species is selected from Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia Medik., Lavandula hybrida and Lavandula x intermedia.

6. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that The extract of Lavandula angustifolia contains at least 8.0% of sesquiterpene compounds, the percentage corresponding to the area percentage represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of ​​the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the extract.

7. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that The eye-catching lavender extract contains: - 10.0% to 20.0% of a sesquiterpene compound selected from β-caryophyllene, trans-β-farnesene, γ-cadinene and α-bisabolol, - up to 30.0%, preferably from 6.0% to 18.0% linalool, - at least 3.5% lavandin acetate, preferably 4.0% to 7.0% lavandin acetate, The percentage corresponds to the area percentage represented by the peak of the sesquiterpene compound relative to the total area of ​​the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the extract.

8. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The extract can be obtained by a method comprising: - comprising the steps of immersing the plant material of Lavandula angustifolia, preferably the flower top, in a terpene solvent, recovering the liquid phase after immersion and removing the terpene solvent from the liquid phase to obtain an extract, and - A step of removing wax present in said extract to obtain said extract.

9. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that The terpene solvent comprises at least 85 wt%, preferably at least 90 wt% of terpene compounds.

10. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the extract is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably in a cream, balm, mask or serum.

11. The cosmetic use according to claim 10, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.0005 to 0.05 wt%, preferably 0.001 to 0.01 wt% of the extract.

12. The cosmetic use according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the cosmetic composition is selected from aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triplet: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, especially O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or globules-assisted dispersions of a fat phase in an aqueous phase, suspensions, preferably suspensions in an aqueous or hydroalcoholic medium, liposomal suspensions, powders, lotions, emulsions, creams, ointments, gels, foams and salves.

13. A cosmetic method for preventing or treating signs of skin fatigue in a fatigued subject, said method comprising applying to said skin a cosmetically effective amount of a fat-soluble extract of Lavandula angustifolia obtained by macerating Lavandula angustifolia plant material in a terpene solvent.

14. The cosmetic method of claim 13, wherein the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is as defined in any one of claims 5 to 9.

15. The cosmetic method of claim 13 or 14, wherein the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is present in a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 10 to 12.

16. The cosmetic method of any one of claims 13 to 15, wherein the sign of skin fatigue is dark circles and wherein the extract is applied to the area around the eyes.

17. The cosmetic method of any one of claims 13 to 16, wherein the subject's fatigue is caused by one or more factors selected from the group consisting of: lack of sleep, jet lag, poor or unbalanced dietary health, alcohol consumption, lack or excessive physical activity, sedentary lifestyle, overwork, high intensity activity or lack of activity at work, night work or staggered work hours, screen exposure, and stress.

18. A cosmetic ingredient comprising an extract of Lavandula angustifolia as defined in any one of claims 1 and 5 to 9 in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

19. The cosmetic ingredient of claim 18, comprising or consisting of 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia in a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.

20. The cosmetic ingredient of claim 18 or 19, wherein the extract of Lavandula angustifolia is present as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for increasing the skin production of melatonin in healthy skin and / or for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological alterations of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and / or as a cosmetic agent for promoting or favoring skin protection mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.

21. A cosmetic composition comprising the extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to any one of claims 1 or 5 to 9, or the cosmetic ingredient according to claim 18 or 19, and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

22. The cosmetic composition of claim 21 , wherein the cosmetic composition is selected from aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triplet: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or globules-assisted dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, suspensions, preferably suspensions in an aqueous or hydroalcoholic medium, liposomal suspensions, powders, lotions, emulsions, creams, ointments, gels, foams and salves.

23. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21 or 22, which is a care product for treating or preventing skin fatigue, such as a serum, cream, mask or balm, preferably for use at night.

24. Use of an extract of Lavandula angustifolia according to any one of claims 1 or 5 to 9 or a cosmetic ingredient according to claim 18 or 19 for the preparation of an anti-fatigue cosmetic composition for increasing the skin production of melatonin in healthy skin and / or for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological alterations of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and / or for promoting or favoring the skin protection mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Sewage treatment system

    FR2005014A1

  • Lavender absolute for cosmetic use

    FR3110422A1