Method for cosmetic treatment of hair, comprising washing step, step of applying cosmetic composition comprising amino acid and hydroxylated (poly) carboxylic acid, and subsequent conditioning step

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the hair, comprising:-a step of washing the hair with a washing cosmetic composition comprising an anionic and / or amphoteric surfactant; followed by a step of applying a cosmetic composition comprising one or more compounds of the amino acid type and one or more hydroxylated (poly) carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof; followed by a step of conditioning with a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more conditioning agents.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, which method comprises the sequential application of a hair cleansing cosmetic composition, followed by a composition comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, and then a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more conditioning agents.

[0002] Consumers around the world are routinely exposed to highly varying sources of water which have an impact on the hair, particularly with respect to their cosmetic properties and / or performance qualities of hair products.

[0003] "Mineral" water contains varying amounts of minerals, such as calcite (calcium), dolomite (calcium and magnesium), magnetite (iron), and chalcanthite (copper), in the form of dissolved ions. "Hard" water is also enriched in minerals, such as calcium and magnesium, while swimming pool water is enriched in copper salts, which originate from the algaecides used in swimming pool treatments.

[0004] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metal salts due to the presence of anionic functional groups on its surface, which correspond in particular to the sulfonic or carboxylic acid functional groups of keratin. Furthermore, the isoelectric point of a single hair is generally described as being between 3.2 and 4. As a result, in everyday life, the pH of the water applied to the hair is greater than such values, which results in negatively charged fibers.

[0005] The minerals (very often multivalent cations) will therefore be attracted to this negatively charged fiber and trapped by forming chemical bonds, which prevents these minerals from being released by conventional hair treatment methods. This leads to a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. This attachment depends not only on the hardness of the water, the frequency and / or duration of exposure of the hair to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of the hair (in particular porosity and charge) and also on its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metal salts can lead to more or less significant modifications of the hair fiber and in particular of the cosmetic properties of individual hairs. Thus, the accumulation of calcium and magnesium can lead to dry, dull hair, while the accumulation of copper can lead to a greenish discoloration of the hair.

[0007] Furthermore, the accumulation of metal (eg iron, copper) salts can accelerate the damage done to the hair, since they catalyze oxidation / reduction reactions and generate hydroxyl radicals HO° that can be harmful to keratin fibers, including at low levels.

[0008] This can lead to photodegradation of the fibers, lightening of the fibers, and also to detrimental changes in the properties of the hair, which can lead to premature breakage of individual hairs; these phenomena are very particularly observed during subsequent use of lightening or dyeing products.

[0009] In other words, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metal salts, the hair may become less resistant, more fragile, indeed even more susceptible to breakage, or also lose its shine.

[0010] There is therefore a real need for available compositions that make it possible to combat the accumulation of metal ions resulting from minerals and metal salts dissolved in water, indeed even to extract them from the keratin fibres, in order to limit their negative effects and overcome all the above-mentioned disadvantages.

[0011] The use of the composition described hereinafter between the application of a shampoo and a care composition (for example a conditioner) makes it possible to achieve this objective.

[0012] Therefore, a subject of the present invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, comprising:

[0013] - a step (i) of washing the hair, which step comprises applying a washing cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, followed by

[0014] - a step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts, followed by

[0015] - a step (iii) of conditioning the hair, comprising applying a cosmetic care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0016] It has been found that the process according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance of the hair to breakage, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit the reduction or loss of its shine, an undesirable effect easily caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium ions, in the fibers.

[0017] After performing the method, the fibers appear to be strengthened, with the strengthening improving with continued application of the composition.

[0018] It has also been found that the compositions used in the context of the present invention make it possible to contribute to the conditioning properties of the hair, especially smooth feel, softness, shine and easy detangling, and in doing so contribute to the strength, body and volume of the entire head of hair.

[0019] The method according to the invention is particularly suitable for hair that has been sensitized, brittle and / or damaged, in particular as a result of physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments (for example dyeing, bleaching, permanent wave and / or straightening).

[0020] It is also particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of hair which is loaded with metals, in particular with metals in an amount of at least 100 ppm, better still with a content of at least 200 ppm; in particular with copper, in particular in an amount of at least 100 ppm, better still with a content of at least 200 ppm and / or with calcium, in particular in an amount of at least 4000 ppm, better still with a content of at least 10 000 ppm.

[0021] Thus, the hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a step (i) of washing the hair, which step comprises applying a washing cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.

[0022] This step may or may not be followed by a residence time, for example from 1 to 15 minutes, in particular from 2 to 5 minutes.

[0023] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before carrying out step (ii).

[0024] Preferably, said step (i) is followed by a rinsing step after a residence time of possibly 1-15 minutes.Thus, preferably, the method according to the invention comprises an intermediate rinsing step between steps (i) and (ii).

[0025] The hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition as defined below.

[0026] This step may or may not be followed by a residence time, for example a residence time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.

[0027] This step may optionally be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before carrying out step (iii).

[0028] Preferably, step (ii) is not followed by a rinsing step before performing step (iii).

[0029] The hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a step (iii) of conditioning the hair, which comprises applying a cosmetic care (or conditioning) composition comprising one or more conditioning agents selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0030] This step may or may not be followed by a residence time, for example a residence time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.

[0031] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0032] Preferably, said step (iii) is followed by a rinsing step, after a residence time of possibly 1 to 15 minutes; and optionally after a drying step.

[0033] Steps (i), (ii) and (iii) are carried out successively or sequentially, which means that step (i) precedes step (ii) and step (ii) precedes step (iii); there may be intermediate steps between each of these steps, such as dwelling and / or rinsing and / or drying steps.

[0034] In the text below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from... to...".

[0035] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to and can be replaced by the expression "one or more".

[0036] A / Detergent composition A applied in step (i)

[0037] The hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a hair "washing" step (i) which consists in applying to the hair a washing cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic surfactants and / or one or more amphoteric surfactants, and also mixtures thereof.

[0038] In a known manner, the washing composition or shampoo may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants as described below for composition B; this description and in particular the preferences and levels indicated may also apply to composition A.

[0039] Anionic surfactants

[0040] The cleansing cosmetic composition A may comprise one or more anionic surfactants.

[0041] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0042] In this specification, a substance is referred to as "anionic" when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species under the conditions of use of the compositions of the invention (e.g., medium or pH) and does not contain any cationic charges.

[0043] The anionic surfactant may be a sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic acid (or carboxylate) surfactant. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

[0044] It should be understood in this specification that:

[0045] -Carboxylate anionic surfactants contain at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO - ) and may optionally also contain one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functional groups;

[0046] -Sulfonate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfonate functional group (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 - ) and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functional groups, but not any carboxylate functional groups; and

[0047] -Sulfate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfate functional group, but do not contain any carboxylate or sulfonate functional groups.

[0048] Thus, carboxylic acid anionic surfactants that can be used include at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO - ).

[0049] They can be selected from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C 6-30 and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl radicals of these compounds contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 28, better still 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; aryl preferably denotes phenyl or benzyl; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylened, in particular polyoxyethylenened, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units, better still 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.

[0050] Polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid C 6 -C 24 Alkyl monoesters, such as C 6 -C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-citrate, C 6 -C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-tartrate and C 6 -C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinate and its salts.

[0051] Among the above carboxylic acid surfactants, mention may most particularly be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkyleneoxy groups and in particular ethyleneoxy groups, such as the compounds sold under the name Akypo by the company Kao (Kao).

[0052] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably selected from those of the formula (1):

[0053] R 1’ -(OC 2 H 4 ) n’ -OCH 2 COOA (1)

[0054] in:

[0055] -R 1' C represents a straight or branched chain 6 -C 24 Alkyl or alkenyl, (C 8 -C 9 ) alkylphenyl, R 2’ CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - group, where R 2’ C indicates straight or branched chain 9 -C 21 alkyl or alkenyl; preferably, R 1’ It is C 8 -C 20 , preferably C 8 -C 18 alkyl;

[0056] - n' is an integer or a decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,

[0057] -A indicates H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

[0058] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular those containing different R 1’ A mixture of compounds of the group.

[0059] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0060] -R 1' C indicates straight or branched chain 8 -C 22 , especially C 10 -C 16 In fact, even C 12 -C14 Alkyl, or (C 8 -C 9 ) alkylphenyl;

[0061] -A indicates a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0062] -n' ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0063] Still more preferably, a compound of formula (1) is used, wherein R 1' Indication C 12 -C 14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, A indicates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' varies from 2 to 10.

[0064] Among the commercial products that can preferably be used are the following products, which are sold by Kao Corporation under the following names:

[0065] NP 70(R 1 =nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)

[0066] NP 40(R 1 =nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0067] OP 40(R 1 = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)

[0068] OP 80(R 1 =octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)

[0069] OP 190(R 1 = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H)

[0070] RLM 38(R 1 =(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4, A=H)

[0071] RLM38NV(R 1 =(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4, A=Na)

[0072] RLM45CA(R 1 =(C 12 -C 14)alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)

[0073] RLM45NV(R 1 =(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)

[0074] RLM 100(R 1 =(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=10, A=H)

[0075] RLM100NV(R 1 =(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=10, A=Na)

[0076] RLM 130(R 1 =(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=13, A=H)

[0077] RLM160NV(R 1 =(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=16, A=Na),

[0078] Or sold by Sandoz under the following names:

[0079] Sandopan DTC-acid (R 1 =(C 13 )alkyl, n=6, A=H)

[0080] Sandopan DTC(R 1 =(C 13 )alkyl, n=6, A=Na)

[0081] Sandopan LS24(R 1 =(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=12, A=Na)

[0082] Sandopan JA 36(R 1 =(C 13 )alkyl, n=18, A=H),

[0083] and more particularly the products marketed under the following names:

[0084] RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid)

[0085] RLM 100

[0086] RLM-38.

[0087] Preferably, the carboxylic acid anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0088] -Acylglutamates, especially C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 Acylglutamates of stearoyl glutamate, such as stearoyl glutamate, and in particular disodium stearoyl glutamate;

[0089] -Acylsarcosinates, especially C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 Acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinate, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;

[0090] -Acyl lactylates, especially C 12 -C 28 or even C 14 -C 24 Acyl lactylates, such as behenyl lactylate, and in particular sodium behenyl lactylate;

[0091] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl glycinates;

[0092] -(C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, and especially (C 12 -C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups;

[0093] -polyoxyalkylene (C 6 -C 24 ) alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, especially those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups;

[0094] In particular, they are in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0095] It is preferred to use polyoxyalkylene (C 6 -C 24 )Alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts.

[0096] Sulfonate anionic surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfonate functional group (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 - ). They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;

[0097] The alkyl group of these compounds contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 28, better still 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl group or a benzyl group;

[0098] These compounds may be polyoxyalkylened, in particular polyoxyethylenened, and then preferably comprise 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units and better still 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.

[0099] Preferably, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0100] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates;

[0101] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinate;

[0102] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0103] -(C 6 -C 24 ) acyl isethionate, and preferably (C 12 -C 18 ) acyl isethionates;

[0104] In particular, they are in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0105] Sulfate anionic surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfate functional group (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 - ).

[0106] They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and salts of these compounds;

[0107] The alkyl group of these compounds contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 28, better still 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl group or a benzyl group;

[0108] These compounds may be polyoxyalkylened, in particular polyoxyethylenened, and then preferably comprise 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units and better still 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.

[0109] Preferably, the sulfate anionic surfactant is selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0110] -Alkyl sulfates, especially C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfates; and

[0111] -Alkyl ether sulfates, especially C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates, preferably containing 2 to 20 ethyleneoxy units;

[0112] In particular, they are in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0113] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the salt may be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts), ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts and alkaline earth metal salts (such as magnesium salts).

[0114] Examples of aminoalcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0115] Preference is given to using alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium salts or magnesium salts.

[0116] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0117] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfates;

[0118] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates; preferably containing 2 to 20 ethyleneoxy units;

[0119] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinate;

[0120] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates;

[0121] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0122] -(C 6 -C 24 ) acyl isethionate, and preferably (C 12 -C 18 ) acyl isethionates;

[0123] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl sarcosinates; in particular palmitoyl sarcosinate;

[0124] -(C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12 -C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups;

[0125] -polyoxyalkylene (C 6 -C 24 ) alkylamidoether carboxylic acids and their salts, especially those containing 2 to 50 alkyleneoxy groups and especially ethyleneoxy groups;

[0126] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acylglutamate;

[0127] -C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl glycinates;

[0128] In particular, they are in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0129] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, preferably one or more C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfate, and / or one or more C 6 -C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates; preferably containing 2 to 20 ethyleneoxy units, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0130] Anionic surfactants are preferably present in the washing compositions according to the invention in a total amount ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in particular from 4% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight, even better still from 6% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] Amphoteric surfactant

[0132] The cleaning compositions A according to the invention may comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.

[0133] In particular, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants. They may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the amine derivative containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0134] Special mention can be made of (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl betaine, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl sulfobetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamide (C 3 -C 8 ) alkyl betaine and (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamide (C 6 -C 8 )Alkyl sulfobetaines.

[0135] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the corresponding structures (II) and (III) below:

[0136] R a -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N + (R b )(R c )-CH 2 COO - ,M + ,X - (II)

[0137] in:

[0138] -R a denotes an acid R derived from preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil a C of COOH 10 To C 30 alkyl or alkenyl, or heptyl, nonyl or undecyl;

[0139] -R b represents β-hydroxyethyl; and

[0140] -R c represents carboxymethyl;

[0141] -M + represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0142] -X - represents an organic or inorganic anion counterion, such as selected from halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate or (C 1 -C 4 ) anionic counterions of alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or alternatively, M + and X - does not exist;

[0143] R a’ -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N(B)(B')(III)

[0144] in:

[0145] -B represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 OX';

[0146] -B' represents a group -(CH 2 ) z Y', where z = 1 or 2;

[0147] -X' represents the group -CH 2 COOH, -CH 2 -COOZ'、-CH 2 CH 2 COOH or CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0148] -Y' represents a group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 H or group CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 -Z';

[0149] -Z' represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0150] -R a’ represents the acid R preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil a’ -COOH C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl, alkyl, especially C 17 Alkyl and its isomeric forms, or unsaturated C 17 Group.

[0151] These compounds are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0152] By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold by Rhodia under the trade name Cocoamphodiacetate sold by C2M Concentrate.

[0153] Compounds of formula (IV) may also be used:

[0154] R a” -NHCH(Y”)-(CH 2 ) n CONH(CH 2 ) n’ -N(R d )(R e ) (IV)

[0155] in:

[0156] -Y" represents a group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 H or group CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 -Z";

[0157] -R d and R e Independently represent C 1 To C 4 Alkyl or hydroxyalkyl;

[0158] -Z" represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0159] -R a” represents the acid R preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil a” -COOH C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl;

[0160] -n and n' indicate an integer ranging from 1 to 3 independently of each other.

[0161] Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoyl aspartamide and sold under the name Chimexane HB by the company Chimex.

[0162] These compounds may be used alone or as a mixture.

[0163] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl betaine such as cocoyl betaine, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamide (C3 -C 8 ) alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (IV) such as diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate sodium salt (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

[0164] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is selected from (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamide (C 3 -C 8 )Alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0165] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still ranging from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] Other Ingredients

[0167] The cleaning composition A according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from C 1 -C 4 Alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0168] Preferably, the total water content of the washing composition according to the invention is between 20 and 95% by weight, preferably between 30 and 90% by weight, preferably between 40 and 85% by weight and better still between 50 and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] The pH of the washing compositions according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 4 to 5.5.

[0170] B / Composition B applied in step (ii)

[0171] Thus, the hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof.

[0172] Amino acid compounds

[0173] Composition B used in the context of the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds.

[0174] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "amino acid type compound" means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, which may be endocyclic, optionally in salt form.

[0175] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is selected from amino acid type compounds and / or salts thereof which contain only one or more carboxylic acid functions (and thus do not contain any sulfonic acid functions). Said compounds are also known as aminocarboxylic acid type compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0176] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to the following formula (I) and / or salts thereof.

[0177] Therefore, the amino acid type compound may correspond to formula (I):

[0178]

[0179] Where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it should be understood that:

[0180] - when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring may be substituted with one or more selected from hydroxyl or (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl radical substitution;

[0181] - When p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C 1 -C 12 ) alkyl, preferably (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl, which may be optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or may be optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH 2 ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH 2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 The group is substituted.

[0182] Preferably, when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 ring members, which ring is unsubstituted.

[0183] Preferably, p=2.

[0184] Preferably, when p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C 1 -C 4)alkyl, which is optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or optionally by one or two groups selected from hydroxy, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 The group is substituted.

[0185] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0186] The amino acid-type compound may also be a salt of the compound of formula (I).

[0187] These include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts.

[0188] The amino acid type compound may be in the form of an optical isomer in the L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably the L configuration.

[0189] As examples of the compound according to the present invention in the form of an optical isomer in the L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0190] Preferably, the amino acid compound according to the present invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0191] Preferably, the amino acid type compound according to the present invention is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0192] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0193] As glycinates according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate or potassium glycinate.

[0194] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0195] The total content of amino acid compounds present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.7% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] In particular, the total content of aminocarboxylic acid compounds in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] Even better, the total content of amino acid-type compounds selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.7% to 8% by weight, and even better from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] Most particularly, the total content of amino acid type compounds chosen from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] Better still, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] Hydroxy (poly)carboxylic acid

[0201] The composition B used according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts.

[0202] These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds described above.

[0203] The (poly)acids contain at least one COOH group (in acid or salified form); they may contain several, in particular at least two COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better still two to three COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0204] They also contain at least one OH group, but may contain several, in particular two to three, of these OH groups.

[0205] Preferably, they contain from four to six carbon atoms in total and their hydrocarbon-based chains are saturated and straight-chain.

[0206] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two to three COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0207] Salts of these (poly) acids include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts. Alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred and in particular sodium salts.

[0208] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acid or its salt is chosen from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts; most particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid and also salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate.

[0209] Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly) carboxylic acids and / or their salts containing a total of two to eight carbon atoms present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts comprising a total of four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two or three COOH groups present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0211] Most particularly, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0212] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 1% to 8% by weight, even better from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] Associative polymer

[0214] The composition B used according to the invention may comprise one or more associative polymers. Preferably, the associative polymer is nonionic.

[0215] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means a polymer derived from monomers (at least one of which is not an alkylene oxide) and having the formula RX (R indicates an optionally hydroxylated C10 -C 30 Any compound which is a condensation polymerization or free radical polymerization of a monofunctional compound (wherein alkylene oxide is alkyl or alkenyl, and X indicates a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group). Specifically excluded are all compounds resulting from the simple condensation of alkylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, fatty amides or fatty amines.

[0216] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means an amphiphilic polymer capable of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules in an aqueous medium. In its chemical structure, it generally comprises at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.

[0217] An associative polymer according to the invention is a polymer comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the molecules of which are able to combine with each other or with molecules of other compounds in the formulation medium. Preferably, the fatty chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0218] A specific case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, i.e. polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts or groups making them water-soluble and one or more hydrophobic regions or groups (comprising at least one fatty chain), which polymers interact and assemble with each other or with other molecules via these hydrophilic parts or groups and hydrophobic regions or groups.

[0219] The term "hydrophobic group" means a group or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain (which may contain one or more heteroatoms, such as P, O, N or S), or a group containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When it indicates a hydrocarbon-based group, the hydrophobic group contains at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based hydrophobic group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group can be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecanol or decanol, or additionally from a polyalkylated fatty alcohol, such as steareth-100. It can also indicate a hydrocarbon-based polymer, such as polybutadiene.

[0220] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" means a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0221] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty compound" (for example fatty alcohol, fatty acid or fatty amide) means a compound comprising in its main chain at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0222] Among the anionic associative polymers, mention may especially be made of:

[0223] - (A) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit; and more particularly those of:

[0224] Its hydrophilic units consist of ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomers, even more particularly vinyl carboxylic acids and most particularly acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and

[0225] Its fatty chain allyl ether unit corresponds to a monomer having the following formula (I'): CH 2 =C(R')-CH 2 OB n R

[0226] Where R' indicates H or CH 3 , B indicates ethyleneoxy, n ranges from 0 to 100 and R indicates a hydrocarbon-based group selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl, containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' indicates H, n=10 and R indicates stearyl (C 18 ) group.

[0227] Among these anionic associative polymers, particularly preferred are those composed of 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5 to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, l -C 4 A polymer formed by an alkyl ester, 2 to 50% by weight of a fatty chain allyl ether of formula (I') and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent, which is preferably a copolymerizable multiethylenically unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

[0228] Most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10EO) stearyl ether (steareth-10), especially the product sold under the name Salcare SC80 by BASF, which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10) with the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer;

[0229] - (B) comprises at least one unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type hydrophilic unit and at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C 10 -C30 ) those of the hydrophobic units of alkyl esters.

[0230] These polymers are preferably chosen from those in which the hydrophilic units of the unsaturated ethylenic carboxylic acid type correspond to monomers of the following formula (II):

[0231]

[0232] Where R 1 Indicates H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 , and its unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C 10 -C 30 ) The hydrophobic unit of the alkyl ester corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (III):

[0233]

[0234] Where R 2 Indication H, CH 3 or C 2 H 5 And R 3 Instructions C 10 -C 30 And preferably C 12 -C 22 alkyl.

[0235] The unsaturated carboxylic acid according to the present invention (C 10 -C 30 ) Alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0236] Among these anionic associative polymers, use will more particularly be made of polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth) acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of the abovementioned formula (III), and in which R 2 Indicates H or CH 3 And R 3 indicates an alkyl group containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable multiethylenically unsaturated monomer such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

[0237] Among anionic associative polymers of this type, preference is particularly given to polymers composed of 95 to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid C10 -C 30 alkyl esters and 0 to 6% by weight of a crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or also 98 to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of acrylic acid C 10 -C 30 Those composed of alkyl esters and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of a crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those previously described.

[0238] Mention may in particular be made of the products sold under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21 by the company Lubrizol (having the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), and even more preferably Pemulen TR1 and Carbopol 1382;

[0239] -(C)Maleic anhydride / C 30 -C 38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as maleic anhydride / C 30 -C 38 α-Olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymers, in particular the product sold under the name Performa V 1608 by Newphase Technologies (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin / isopropyl maleate / MA copolymer);

[0240] - (D) an acrylic terpolymer comprising (a) 20 to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surface active α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), and (c) 0.5 to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydroxy surfactant and a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.

[0241] Mention may especially be made of the dimethyl(meta-isopropenyl)benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated (40EO) behenyl alcohol, especially as a 25% aqueous dispersion such as the product Viscophobe DB1000 sold by Amerchol (Dow Chemical) with the INC name Polyacrylate-3;

[0242] (E) copolymers which comprise, among their monomers, (i) an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, especially acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and an oxyalkylened, especially fatty alcohol, especially C 8 -C 32 Esters of fatty alcohols.

[0243] As monomers, mention may in particular be made of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate containing from 10 to 40 EO, in particular from 18 to 30 EO.

[0244] Preferably, these compounds also contain an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a C 1 -C 4 Esters of alcohols, especially (meth)acrylic acid C 1 -C 4 Alkyl esters as monomers.

[0245] Preferably, these copolymers contain at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one (meth)acrylic acid C 1 -C 4 The alkyl ester monomer and at least one oxyethylidene (meth)acrylic acid C containing 2 to 100 mol EO, in particular 4 to 50 EO or even 10 to 40 EO 8 -C 32 Alkyl ester monomers.

[0246] By way of example, mention may be made of Aculyn 22 sold by Rohm and Haas, an oxyalkylened methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or also Aculyn 28 sold by Rohm and Haas, an oxyalkylened methacrylic acid / ethyl methacrylate / behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), and also the Novethix L-10 polymer sold by Lubrizol;

[0247] (F) an associative polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer carrying sulfonic acid groups, in free or partially or completely neutralized form, and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion.

[0248] Among polymers of this type, mention may more especially be made of:

[0249] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or unneutralized copolymers comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid (C 8 -C 16 ) alkyl ester units, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750 899;

[0250] - a terpolymer comprising 10 mol % to 90 mol % of acrylamide units, 0.1 mol % to 10 mol % of AMPS units and 5 mol % to 80 mol % of n-(C 6 -C 8 ) alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US 5 089 578;

[0251] - completely neutralized copolymers of AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, and also non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide;

[0252] - copolymers composed of AMPS units and of steareth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex sold by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer), or Beheneth-25 Methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB sold by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer), or also Steareth-8 Methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB from Clariant (INCI name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / STEARETH-8 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER);

[0253] - (G) an associative polymer comprising at least one vinyl lactam monomer and at least one α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, such as vinyl pyrrolidone, acrylic acid and methacrylic acid C 1 -C 20 Terpolymers of alkyl esters (e.g. lauryl methacrylate), such as those marketed by ISP under the name Product sold by LM (INCI name: VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

[0254] Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of:

[0255] -(A') cationic associative polyurethane, which can be represented by the following general formula (Ia): RX-(P) n -[L-(Y) m ] r -L'-(P') p -X'-R'

[0256] in:

[0257] R and R' may be the same or different and represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

[0258] X and X' may be identical or different and represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group or alternatively a group L";

[0259] L, L' and L" may be the same or different and represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;

[0260] P and P' may be the same or different and represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group;

[0261] Y represents a hydrophilic group;

[0262] r is an integer between 1 and 100 (inclusive), preferably between 1 and 50 (inclusive) and in particular between 1 and 25 (inclusive);

[0263] n, m and p are each independently between 0 and 1000 (inclusive);

[0264] The molecule contains at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0265] Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends.

[0266] A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) described above, in which:

[0267] R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

[0268] X and X' each represent a group L",

[0269] n and p are integers between 1 and 1000 (inclusive), and

[0270] L, L', L", P, P', Y and m have the meanings given above.

[0271] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above, in which:

[0272] n=p=0 (the polymer does not contain any units derived from monomers containing amine functional groups which were incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation),

[0273] The protonated amine functionality is generated by hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functionality at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functionality formed with an alkylating agent containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. a compound of the RQ or R'Q type, wherein R and R' are as defined above and Q indicates a leaving group, such as a halide or sulfate, etc.

[0274] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above, in which:

[0275] R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

[0276] X and X' both independently represent a group containing a quaternary amine,

[0277] n=p=0, and

[0278] L, L', Y and m have the meanings indicated above.

[0279] The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500 000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300 000 inclusive.

[0280] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.

[0281] For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecanol or decanol. It may also be indicative of a hydrocarbon-based polymer, such as polybutadiene.

[0282] When X and / or X' indicates a group containing a tertiary amine or a quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulae:

[0283]

[0284] in:

[0285] R 2 represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally containing a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene group, one or more of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P;

[0286] R 1 and R 3 Can be the same or different, indicating a straight or branched chain C 1 -C 30Alkyl or alkenyl or aryl, at least one of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P;

[0287] A - The anionic counterion is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide, or methanesulfonate.

[0288] The groups L, L' and L" represent groups of the formula:

[0289]

[0290] in:

[0291] Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and

[0292] R 4 represents a straight or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally containing a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene group, one or more of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P.

[0293] The groups P and P' comprising an amine functional group may represent at least one of the following formulae:

[0294]

[0295] in:

[0296] R 5 and R 7 With R defined above 2 Same meaning;

[0297] R 6 , R 8 and R 9 With R defined above 1 and R 3 Same meaning;

[0298] R 10 represents a straight-chain or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P; and

[0299] A - The anionic counterion is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide, or methanesulfonate.

[0300] With respect to the meaning of Y, the term "hydrophilic group" means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

[0301] For example, when it is not a polymer, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol can be mentioned.

[0302] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides or mixtures of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferably a polyether and especially a poly(ethylene oxide) or a poly(propylene oxide).

[0303] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds with functional groups containing labile hydrogen. The functional groups containing labile hydrogen may be alcohols, primary or secondary amines or thiol functional groups, which, after reaction with diisocyanate functional groups, give rise to polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. In the present invention, the term "polyurethane" encompasses these three types of polymers, i.e. polyurethanes themselves, polyureas and polythioureas and also copolymers thereof.

[0304] The first type of compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound comprising at least one unit with an amine functional group. This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferably difunctional, that is to say, according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms carried, for example, by hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol functional groups. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds, wherein the percentage of multifunctional compounds is lower.

[0305] As mentioned above, this compound may contain more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer with repeating units containing an amine function.

[0306] This type of compound can be represented by one of the following formulas:

[0307] HZ-(P) n -ZH or HZ-(P') p -ZH, wherein Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0308] Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0309] The second compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the following formula: O=C=NR 4 -N=C=O, where R 4 As defined above.

[0310] By way of example, mention may be made of methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, methylene cyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.

[0311] The third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic group of the polymer of formula (Ia).

[0312] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a functional group containing a labile hydrogen, such as a hydroxyl group, a primary or secondary amine or a thiol functional group.

[0313] For example, the compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecanol or decanol. When the compound comprises a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, an alpha-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0314] The hydrophobic groups of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) can also be produced by the quaternization reaction of a tertiary amine of a compound containing at least one tertiary amine unit. Therefore, the hydrophobic groups are introduced via a quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the RQ or R'Q type, wherein R and R' are as defined above and Q indicates a leaving group, such as a halide, sulfate, etc.

[0315] The cationic associative polyurethane may also contain a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound included in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is lower.

[0316] The functional group containing a labile hydrogen is an alcohol, a primary or secondary amine or a thiol functional group. The compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain end with one of these functional groups containing a labile hydrogen.

[0317] For example, when it is not a polymer, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol can be mentioned.

[0318] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides or mixtures of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferably a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or a poly(propylene oxide).

[0319] The hydrophilic functional group referred to as Y in formula (Ia) is optional. In particular, units containing quaternary amine or protonated amine functional groups may be sufficient to provide the desired solubility or water dispersibility in aqueous solution for polymers of this type.

[0320] Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such a group are preferred.

[0321] - (B') quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular:

[0322] -i) quaternized cellulose modified with radicals containing at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl radicals, linear or branched aralkyl radicals, or linear or branched alkylaryl radicals containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

[0323] -ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose modified with a radical containing at least one fatty chain, such as a linear or branched alkyl radical, a linear or branched aralkyl radical, or a linear or branched alkylaryl radical containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof;

[0324] -iii) Hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (Ib):

[0325]

[0326] in:

[0327] R and R' may be the same or different, indicating an ammonium group -R a R b R c N + Q - , where R a , R b and Rc may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a straight or branched C 1 -C 30 , preferably C 1 -C 20 alkyl, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q- represents an anionic counterion, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide; and

[0328] n, x and y may be the same or different and represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.

[0329] The alkyl group carried by the above quaternized cellulose i) or hydroxyethylcellulose ii) preferably contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a naphthyl group or an anthracenyl group.

[0330] As with C 8 To C 30 As an example of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcellulose of fatty chains, mention may also be made of the product Quatrisoft LM sold by Amerigo / The Dow Chemical Company (INCI name: Polyquaternium-24) and the product Crodacel sold by Croda (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocoyldimonium Chloride), Crodacel (C 12 Alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride) and Crodacel (C 18 Alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride).

[0331] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcellulose of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R′ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide; more preferably, R represents trimethylammonium chloride—(CH 3 ) 3 N + Cl - and R' represents dimethyl dodecyl ammonium chloride -(CH 3 ) 2 (C 12 H 25 )N + Cl - Polymers of this type are available from Amergo / Dow Chemical under the trade name Softcat Polymer Known as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, having the INCI name Polyquaternium-67.

[0332] More particularly, the polymer of formula (Ib) is that its viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs (including end value).Preferably, viscosity is between 2700 and 2800 cPs (including end value).Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

[0333] - (C') cationic polyvinyl lactams, in particular those comprising:

[0334] -a) at least one monomer of the vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type;

[0335] -b) at least one monomer having the following structure (Ic) or (IIc):

[0336]

[0337] in:

[0338] X indicates an oxygen atom or an NR6 group,

[0339] R 1 and R 6 independently of each other indicates a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C 1 -C5 alkyl,

[0340] R 2 C indicates straight or branched chain 1 -C 4 alkyl,

[0341] R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of each other, indicates a hydrogen atom, a straight-chain or branched C 1 -C 30 Alkyl or a group of formula (IIIc):

[0342] -(Y 2 ) r -(CH 2 -CH(R 7 )-O) x -R 8 (IIIc)

[0343] in:

[0344] -Y, Y 1 and Y 2 Independently of each other, indicates a straight or branched C 2 -C 16 Alkylene,

[0345] R 7 Indicates hydrogen atoms, or straight or branched C 1 -C 4 Alkyl or linear or branched C 1 -C 4 Hydroxyalkyl,

[0346] R 8 Indicates hydrogen atoms or straight or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl,

[0347] p, q and r independently indicate a value of zero or a value of 1,

[0348] m and n independently indicate an integer ranging from 0 to 100 (inclusive),

[0349] x indicates an integer ranging from 1 to 100 (inclusive),

[0350] Z indicates an anionic counterion of an organic or inorganic acid, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide, or methanesulfonate;

[0351] The premise is:

[0352] - at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 indicates a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl group,

[0353] - if m or n is not zero, then q is equal to 1,

[0354] -If m or n is equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

[0355] The cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may also be block polymers.

[0356] Preferably, the counterion Z of the monomer of formula (Ic) - Selected from halide ions, phosphate ions, methylsulfate ions and toluenesulfonate ions.

[0357] Preferably, R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of each other indicates a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl.

[0358] More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic), wherein preferably m and n are equal to zero.

[0359] The vinyl lactam or alkyl vinyl lactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):

[0360]

[0361] wherein s indicates an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R 9 Indicates hydrogen atoms or straight or branched C 1 -C 5 Alkyl, and R 10 Indicates hydrogen atoms or straight or branched C 1 -C 5 Alkyl, provided that the group R 9 and R 10 At least one of indicates a hydrogen atom.

[0362] Even more preferably, monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0363] The cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or nonionic monomers.

[0364] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of the following terpolymers, which comprise at least:

[0365] a) a monomer of formula (IVc),

[0366] b) a monomer of formula (Ic) wherein p=1, q=0, R 3 and R 4 Indicates hydrogen atoms or C independently of each other 1 -C 5 Alkyl, and R 5 C indicates straight or branched chain 9 -C 24 Alkyl, and

[0367] c) a monomer of formula (IIc) wherein R 3 and R 4 independently of each other indicates a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C 1 -C 5 alkyl.

[0368] Even more preferably, terpolymers comprising 40 to 95% by weight of monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0369] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, use is made in particular of:

[0370] - Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / dodecyl dimethyl methacrylamidopropyl ammonium toluenesulfonate terpolymer,

[0371] - Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / cocoyl dimethyl methacrylamidopropyl ammonium tosylate terpolymer,

[0372] - Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryl dimethyl methacrylamidopropyl ammonium toluenesulfonate or ammonium chloride terpolymer.

[0373] Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is marketed in particular by the company ISP under the name Styleze and Styleze (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55) is sold.

[0374] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymer is preferably between 500 and 20 000 000, more particularly between 200 000 and 2 000 000 and preferably between 400 000 and 800 000.

[0375] - (D') a cationic polymer obtained by polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO 2004 / 024779.

[0376] Among these polymers, mention will more particularly be made of the products resulting from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:

[0377] -Methacrylate (C 1 -C 4 Alkyl)amino (C 1 -C 6 alkyl) esters,

[0378] - one or more (meth)acrylic acid C 1 -C 30 Alkyl esters,

[0379] -Polyethoxylated methacrylic acid C 10 -C 30 Alkyl ester (20-25 mol of ethyleneoxy units),

[0380] -30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether,

[0381] -Methacrylate hydroxyl group (C 2 -C 6 alkyl) esters, and

[0382] -Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0383] Such polymers are marketed, for example, by the Lubrizol Corporation under the name Carbopol Aqua A compound sold and corresponding to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

[0384] The nonionic associative polymers are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture:

[0385] (1) using a polynucleotide comprising at least one fatty chain, especially C 8 -C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Cellulose modified with alkyl groups; preferably from:

[0386] - containing at least one fatty chain, especially C 8 -C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28Hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with alkyl groups such as alkyl, aralkyl or alkaryl, or mixtures thereof, wherein the alkyl group is preferably C 8 -C 22 , such as those sold by Ashland, especially under the reference number Natrosol Plus Grade 330CS (C 16 alkyl) or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by Ashland,

[0387] - hydroxyethylcellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amercell,

[0388] - and mixtures thereof.

[0389] (2) using a polyisocyanate containing at least one fatty chain, especially C 8 -C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Hydroxypropyl guar gum modified with alkyl groups, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C 22 Alkyl chain), and the product RE210-18 (C 14 Alkyl chain) and RE205-1(C 20 alkyl chain);

[0390] (3) Vinyl pyrrolidone and aliphatic chain hydrophobic monomers, especially C 8 -C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Examples that may be mentioned include:

[0391] - vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymers and in particular the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 sold by the company ISP;

[0392] - vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers and in particular the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 sold by the company ISP;

[0393] (4) Methacrylic acid or acrylic acid C 1 -C 6 Alkyl esters and containing at least one fatty chain, especially C 8 -C 32 And also better C 14 -C28 Copolymers of amphiphilic monomers with alkyl chains, for example the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold under the name Antil 208 by Goldschmidt.

[0394] (5) a hydrophilic methacrylate or acrylate and a 8 -C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Copolymers of hydrophobic monomers with alkyl chains, such as polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0395] (6) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks (generally of a polyoxyethylene nature) and hydrophobic blocks (which may be solely aliphatic sequences and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences);

[0396] (7) containing at least one fatty chain, especially C 8 -C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Alkyl aminoplast ether backbone polymers such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by Süd-Chemie.

[0397] Preferably, the polyurethane polyether comprises at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, which hydrocarbon-based chains may be side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic blocks. In particular, one or more side chains may be envisaged. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of the hydrophilic block.

[0398] The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (e.g. triblock copolymers with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed at the ends and in the chain (e.g. multiblock copolymers). These polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.

[0399] The fatty chain nonionic polyurethane polyether may be a triblock copolymer whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethyleneated chain containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyether contains urethane bonds between the hydrophilic blocks, which is where the name comes from.

[0400] By extension, the nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0401] As an example of nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the present invention, Rheolate with urea functional groups sold by Rheox can also be used. or 208, 204 or 212, and Acrysol RM Also mentioned are the products containing C from Akzo. 12 -C 14 Alkyl chain products Elfacos and containing C 18 Alkyl chain products Elfacos You can also use the Rohm and Haas Company ( &Haas) has C 20 Alkyl chain and having urethane bonds, product DW provided at 20% solid content in water

[0402] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous / alcoholic medium. As examples of such polymers, mention may be made of the polymers sold by Veyron 255, 278 and 244. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by Rohm and Haas Company may also be used.

[0403] Polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen: Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380. 389 (1993).

[0404] Even more particular preference is given to using polyurethane polyethers obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide groups, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decanol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0405] Such polyether polyurethanes are marketed in particular by Rohm and Haas under the name Aculyn and Aculyn Sales [Aculyn Aculyn is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 15 wt% in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); It is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol having 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decanol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) [35% by weight].

[0406] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more nonionic associative polymers, preferably chosen from polyurethane polyethers.

[0407] Preferably, the associative polymer is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0408] Preferably, the nonionic associative polymer is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0409] Preferably, the nonionic associative polymer chosen from polyether polyurethanes is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0410] Silicone

[0411] The composition B used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more silicones, which may in particular be chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0412] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amino silicones which may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25° C., 1 atm), and volatile or non-volatile.

[0413] The non-amino silicones that can be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0414] Silicones are described in particular detail in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.

[0415] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C. (at atmospheric pressure), and in particular from:

[0416] i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as

[0417] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione 70045V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione 70045V 5 by Rhodia;

[0418] - Cyclic copolymers of dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the following chemical structure:

[0419]

[0420] Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide.

[0421] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1,1′-oxy(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane;

[0422] ii) a linear polydialkylsiloxane containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally has a carbon number less than or equal to 5×10 -6 m 2 / s viscosity, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0423] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics by Todd & Byers, Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH200 by Toray Silicone.

[0424] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (polydimethylsiloxane / PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also non-aminoorganopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones), which are polysiloxanes containing in their structure one or more non-aminoorganic functional groups, generally attached via hydrocarbon-based groups and preferably chosen from aryl, alkoxy and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups.

[0425] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes (especially polydiphenylsiloxanes) and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the previously mentioned organofunctional groups. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0426] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0427] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene, which optionally contain C 6 -C 24 Alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols and especially those sold under the name DC 1248 by Dow Corning or oils from Union Carbide L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711; or alternatively (C 12 ) alkyl methicone copolyols, and especially those sold under the name Q2-5200 by Dow Corning;

[0428] - thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72A and GP 71 by Genesee;

[0429] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name polysiloxane copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil® sold by Goschmidt 2428, 2434 and 2440;

[0430] - hydroxylated groups, for example polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl functional groups;

[0431] - acyloxyalkyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732;

[0432] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic acid type, such as the product X-22-3701E from Shin-Etsu, or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as those produced by Goschmidt under the name S201 and Products sold by S255;

[0433] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: polydimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:

[0434] - 47 and 70 047 series sold by Rhodia Oil or Oil, for example oil 70047V 500 000;

[0435] - Marketed by Rhodia Series of oils;

[0436] - Oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as those with 60 000 mm 2 / s viscosity DC200;

[0437] - From General Electric oils, and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0438] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0439] Among this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the polysiloxanes marketed under the name Abil Products sold as 9800 and 9801, which are poly (C1-C20) dialkyl siloxanes.

[0440] More particularly, the products that can be used according to the invention are mixtures such as:

[0441] - mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethiconols (CTFA) with hydroxyl-terminated chains and cyclic dimethicones, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.

[0442] The polyalkylaryl siloxanes are particularly selected from those having a relative humidity in the range of 1×10 -5 Up to 5×10 -2 m 2 / s linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenyl siloxane and polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxane having a viscosity of 1.1777 W / s.

[0443] Among these polyalkylaryl siloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:

[0444] - 70 641 series from Rhodia Oil;

[0445] -From Rhodia 70 Oils of the 633 and 763 series;

[0446] - oil from Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;

[0447] - Silicones from the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0448] - Silicones from the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;

[0449] - Certain oils from the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0450] Non-amino silicones which are very particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0451] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more aminosilicones.

[0452] The term "aminosilicone" denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0453] The aminosilicones which can be used according to the invention can be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched and preferably have a carbonyl group at 25° C. in the range of 5×10 -6 Up to 2.5m 2 / s, for example 1×10 -5 Up to 1m 2 / s viscosity.

[0454] Preferably, the aminosilicone is selected from the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0455] A) a polysiloxane corresponding to formula (I):

[0456]

[0457] wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) is 5000 to 500 000 g / mol;

[0458] B) aminosilicone corresponding to formula (II):

[0459] R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG 2 ) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a’ -R' a’ (II)

[0460] in:

[0461] -G are the same or different, indicating hydrogen atoms or phenyl, OH, C 1 -C 8 Alkyl such as methyl, or C 1 -C 8 Alkoxy groups such as methoxy;

[0462] - a and a' may be identical or different and indicate 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one of a and a' is equal to zero,

[0463] -b indicates 0 or 1, especially 1,

[0464] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0465] -R' can be the same or different, indicating the formula -C q H 2q A monovalent group of L, wherein q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the group consisting of: -NR"-QN(R") 2 、-N(R”) 2 、-N + (R”) 3 A - 、-N + H(R”) 2 A - 、-N + H 2 (R”)A- 、-NR”-QN + (R”)H 2 A - 、-NR”-QN + (R”) 2 HA - and-NR"-QN + (R”) 3 A - , wherein R" may be the same or different and indicates hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, such as C 1 -C 20 Alkyl; Q indicates formula C r H 2r A linear or branched group, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably 2 to 4; and A - denotes a cosmetically acceptable anion, especially a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0466] Preferably, the aminosilicone of formula (II) may be selected from:

[0467] (i) "Trimethylsilylaminodimethicone" silicone corresponding to formula (III):

[0468]

[0469] wherein m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0470] (ii) Silicone of the following formula (IV):

[0471]

[0472] in:

[0473] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n indicates a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m indicates a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0474] -R 1 , R 2 and R 3 Can be the same or different, representing hydroxyl or C 1 -C4 Alkoxy, group R 1 To R 3 At least one of indicates an alkoxy group.

[0475] Preferably, the alkoxy group is methoxy.

[0476] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0477] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0478] (iii) Silicone of the following formula (V):

[0479]

[0480] in:

[0481] - p and q are numbers such that the sum of (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p indicates a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q indicates a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0482] -R 1 and R 2 is different, indicating hydroxyl or C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy, group R 1 or R 2 At least one of indicates an alkoxy group.

[0483] Preferably, the alkoxy group is methoxy.

[0484] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and is more particularly equal to 1:0.95.

[0485] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100 000 g / mol, and in particular from 10 000 to 50 000 g / mol.

[0486] Commercial products containing silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may contain in their composition one or more other aminosilicones having a structure different from that of formula (IV) or (V). Products containing aminosilicones of structure (IV) are marketed by Wacker under the name ADM 652 is marketed. Aminosilicone products containing structure (V) are marketed by Wacker under the name Fluid WR Another product containing an aminosilicone having structure (XIV) is marketed by Wacker under the name Belsil ADMLOG Sale.

[0487] When using these aminosilicones, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may contain one or more surfactants. The surfactant may be of any nature, but is preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is generally in the range of 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, especially as aminosilicone of formula (V), a microemulsion is used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, according to the invention, it is possible to use the microemulsion manufactured by Wacker under the name Finish CT 96 or SLM Aminosilicone microemulsions of formula (V) are marketed.

[0488] (iv) Silicone of the following formula (VI):

[0489]

[0490] in:

[0491] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n indicates a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m indicates a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0492] -A indicates a straight-chain or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably straight-chain.

[0493] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0494] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 emulsion from Dow Corning.

[0495] (v) Silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0496]

[0497] in:

[0498] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0499] -A indicates a straight or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

[0500] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0501] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0502] C) aminosilicone corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0503]

[0504] in:

[0505] -R 5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C 1 -C 18 Alkyl or C 2 -C 18 alkenyl, such as methyl;

[0506] -R 6 denotes a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially C 1 -C 18 Alkylene, or divalent C 1 -C 18 For example, C 1 -C 8 Alkyleneoxy groups, which are connected to Si via a SiC bond;

[0507] -Q - is an anion, such as a halide, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;

[0508] -r represents the average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

[0509] and

[0510] -s indicates an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and specifically from 20 to 50.

[0511] D) Quaternary ammonium silicone of formula (IX):

[0512]

[0513] in:

[0514] -R 7 may be the same or different and represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C 1 -C 18 Alkyl, C 2 -C 18 alkenyl or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl;

[0515] -R 6 denotes a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially C 1 -C 18 Alkylene, or divalent C 1 -C 18 For example, C 1 -C 8 Alkyleneoxy groups, which are connected to Si via a SiC bond;

[0516] -R 8 may be identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a hydrocarbon-based monovalent group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C 1 -C 18 Alkyl, C 2 -C 18 Alkenyl or group -R 6 -NHCOR 7 ;

[0517] -X - is an anion, such as a halide, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; and

[0518] -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and specifically from 5 to 100.

[0519] These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A-0 530 974; mention may in particular be made of the silicone with the following INCI name: Quaternium 80.

[0520] Silicones falling within this category are those sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474;

[0521] E) Aminosilicone of formula (X):

[0522]

[0523] in:

[0524] -R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 Can be the same or different, indicating C 1 -C 4 Alkyl or phenyl,

[0525] -R 5 Indication C 1 -C 4 Alkyl or hydroxyl,

[0526] -n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0527] -m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0528] - x is selected so that the amine value is in the range of 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0529] F)(AB) n A multi-block polyoxyalkylene aminosilicone of the type A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylene block containing at least one amine group.

[0530] The silicone is preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formula:

[0531] [-(SiMe 2 O) x SiMe 2 -RN(R”)-R'-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -R'-N(H)-R-] or otherwise

[0532] [-(SiMe 2 O) x SiMe 2 -RN(R”)-R'-O(C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b -]

[0533] in:

[0534] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0535] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0536] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0537] -R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0538] -R can be the same or different, indicating a straight or branched divalent C 2 -C 12 A hydrocarbon-based group, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R may be the same or different, indicating ethylene, linear or branched propylene, linear or branched butylene or CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 - group; preferably, R indicates CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 - a group; and

[0539] -R' can be the same or different, representing a linear or branched divalent C 2 -C 12 A hydrocarbon-based group, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' may be the same or different, indicating ethylene, linear or branched propylene, linear or branched butylene or CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 - group; preferably, R' indicates -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -.

[0540] The siloxane blocks preferably represent from 50 to 95 mol%, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%, of the total weight of the silicone.

[0541] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2, of the copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol.

[0542] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000 g / mol.

[0543] Mention may especially be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by the company Momentive.

[0544] G) Aminosilicones of formula (XI) and (XII):

[0545]

[0546] in:

[0547] -R, R' and R" can be the same or different, indicating C 1 -C 4 Alkyl or hydroxyl,

[0548] -A indicates C 3 an alkylene group; and

[0549] - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000;

[0550]

[0551] in:

[0552] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0553] -R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different, preferably the same, indicating a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0554] -A indicates a straight or branched chain alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0555] Preferably, A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. The following divalent groups may be mentioned in particular: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -and-CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -.

[0556] Preferably, R 1 and R2 are independently saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon radicals containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; and preferably, R 1 and R 2 They may be the same or different and are selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).

[0557] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):

[0558] -x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

[0559] -y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0560] -A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is selected from the following divalent radicals: -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 and -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -;and

[0561] -R 1 and R 2 is independently a saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon radical containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; in particular selected from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; preferably, R 1 and R 2 They may be the same or different and are selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).

[0562] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may in particular be made of the aminosilicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by the company Momentive.

[0563] h) Polysiloxanes which contain primary amine groups only at one chain end or on side chains and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those of the formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

[0564]

[0565] H 2 NCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -Si(CH 3) 2 -O-[Si(CH 3 ) 2 -O] n -Si(CH 3 ) 2 C 4 H 9 (XV)

[0566] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 1,000 and 55,000.

[0567] Mention may be made, as examples of aminosilicones of formula (XIV), of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and under the name KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu.

[0568] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 3,000.

[0569] As examples of aminosilicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Geister.

[0570] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 50,000.

[0571] As example of aminosilicone of formula (XVI), mention may be made of aminopropylphenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

[0572] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise as silicone an aminosilicone corresponding to the following formula (XVIII):

[0573]

[0574] in:

[0575] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;

[0576] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;

[0577] - R"' may be identical or different, preferably identical, and are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl OH groups;

[0578] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0579] -R" is a straight or branched divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0580] Preferably, the radicals R'', which may be identical or different, are saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl; preferably, the radicals R'', which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon radicals containing 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C 13 , C 14 or C 15 groups (alone or as a mixture), and also better represent C 13 , C 14 or C 15 A mixture of groups.

[0581] Preferably, the groups R'" are identical.

[0582] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms; especially -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -、-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group.

[0583] Preferably, R" is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 4 carbon atoms, especially -CH 2 -CH 2 -group.

[0584] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII), wherein:

[0585] -n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0586] -m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0587] -R"' are the same and are saturated straight chain hydrocarbon groups containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0588] -R' is a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0589] -R" is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0590] Even better, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0591] -n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0592] -m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0593] -R"' are the same and are saturated straight chain hydrocarbon groups containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0594] -R' is -(CH 2 ) 3 -、-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group, and

[0595] -R" is -(CH 2 ) 2 -group.

[0596] A most particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may especially be made of the silicone sold by Dow under the name Dowsil 8500 conditioner.

[0597] Preferably, the aminosilicone is selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0598] - an aminosilicone of formula (II), preferably wherein G indicates C 1 -C 8 alkyl and a=a'=0; most particularly preferred silicones of formula (II) are aminopropyl polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the product sold under the name X-22-9686 by Shin-Etsu;

[0599] - quaternary ammonium silicone of the above formula (IX);

[0600] - aminosilicones of the above formula (XVIII), in particular those wherein n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R"' is identical and is a saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon radical containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R' is -(CH 2 ) 3 -、-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group, and R" is -(CH 2 ) 2 -group.

[0601] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may contain a total content of silicone preferably ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0602] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may contain a total content of aminosilicone preferably ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0603] Cationic surfactants

[0604] Composition B used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0605] The cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say they do not contain Si-O groups.

[0606] They are preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0607] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants selected, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0608] -Compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II):

[0609]

[0610] in:

[0611] X - is especially selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1-C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate or (C 1 -C 4 ) anions of the group consisting of alkylarylsulfonates;

[0612] Group R 1 To R 4 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched aliphatic group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as an aryl group or an alkylaryl group, the group R 1 To R 4 At least one of indicates a straight-chain or branched aliphatic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0613] Aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen, among others. Aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C 1 -C 30 Alkyl, C 1 -C 30 Alkoxy, (C 2 -C 6 ) polyoxyalkylene, C 1 -C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylamide (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate and C 1 -C 30 Hydroxyalkyl.

[0614] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preferred ones are tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyldimethylcetostearylammonium salts or stearylamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts, such as those marketed under the name 70 of those sold.

[0615] Particular preference is given to using the chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of these compounds.

[0616] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (III):

[0617]

[0618] Where R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, derived from tallow fatty acid, R 6 represents hydrogen atom, C 1 -C 4 Alkyl or an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 7 Represents C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, R 8 Represents a hydrogen atom or C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, X - is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alkyl aryl sulfonates, wherein the alkyl and aryl groups preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.

[0619] Preferably, R 5 and R 6 indicates a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acid, R 7 indicates methyl and R 8 Indicates hydrogen atoms.

[0620] Such a product is sold, for example, by the company Rewo under the name W 75 sales,

[0621] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts of formula (IV):

[0622]

[0623] in:

[0624] R 9 indicates an alkyl group containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0625] R 10 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH 2 ) 3 , where R 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0626] X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate and (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0627] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (quaternium salt 89) sold by Finetex, and Finquat CT (quaternium salt 75) sold by Finetex;

[0628] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V):

[0629]

[0630] in:

[0631] R 15 Selected from C 1 -C 6 Alkyl and C 1 -C 6 Hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl;

[0632] R 16 Selected from the group R19-C(O)-; the group R 20 , which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 Hydrocarbon-based groups; hydrogen atoms;

[0633] R 18 Selected from the group R21-C(O)-; the group R 22 , which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 Hydrocarbon-based groups; hydrogen atoms;

[0634] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

[0635] r, s and t may be the same or different and are integers having values ​​from 2 to 6;

[0636] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0637] x and z may be the same or different and are integers having values ​​from 0 to 10;

[0638] X - are simple or complex, organic or inorganic anions;

[0639] The premise is that the sum of x+y+z is from 1 to 15; when x is 0, then R 16 Indicator R 20 ; and when z is 0, then R 18 Indicator R 22 .

[0640] Alkyl R 15 R may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. 15 Methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl is indicated, and more particularly methyl or ethyl.

[0641] Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z is 1-10.

[0642] When R 16 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 20 When it is present, it may be longer and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be shorter and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0643] When R 18 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 22 When , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0644] Advantageously, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 A hydrocarbon-based group, and more particularly selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 Alkyl and alkenyl.

[0645] Preferably, x and z may be the same or different and equal to 0 or 1.

[0646] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0647] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly equal to 2.

[0648] Anion X -Preferred are halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl sulfates, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, toluenesulfonate, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium carrying an ester function may be used. Anion X - Even more particular are chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0649] In the compositions according to the invention, it is more particularly possible to use ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R 15 Indicates methyl or ethyl, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;

[0650] R 16 Selected from the group R19-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, as well as hydrogen atoms;

[0651] R 18 is selected from the group R21-C(=O)- and a hydrogen atom;

[0652] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group is preferably selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 Alkyl and alkenyl.

[0653] Advantageously, these hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

[0654] Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (V), such as diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium and monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium salts (especially chlorides or methyl sulfates), and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0655] These products are prepared, for example, by reacting triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine (which may optionally be oxyalkylened) with C 10 -C 30 Fatty acids or C 10 -C 30Direct esterification of a mixture of fatty acids, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, ethylene chloride or chloroglycerol.

[0656] Such compounds are marketed, for example, by Henkel under the name Sold by Stepan Company under the name Sold by CECA under the name Sold or sold by Rewo-Witco under the name Sold by WE 18.

[0657] The compositions according to the invention may contain, for example, mixtures of quaternary ammonium monoesters, diesters and triester salts, the majority by weight being the diester salts.

[0658] It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function as described in patents US Pat. No. 4,874,554 and US Pat. No. 4,137,180.

[0659] Behenyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride sold under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 by Kao Corporation may be used.

[0660] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester function contains two ester functions.

[0661] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, preference is given to using dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt.

[0662] The term "fatty amine" means a amine group comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group, or a salt thereof and comprising at least one C 6 -C 30 And preferably C 8 -C 30 Compounds based on hydrocarbon chains.

[0663] Preferably, the fatty amines used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0664] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be carried by the amine group or by the amide group.

[0665] The term "amidoamine" means a compound comprising at least one amide functional group and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group.

[0666] The term "fatty amidoamine" means a fatty amidoamine generally comprising at least one C 6 -C 30 Amidoamines based on hydrocarbon chains. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0667] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0668] Among the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR"N(R') 2 (VI)

[0669] in:

[0670] -R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C 5 -C 29 And preferably C 7 -C 23 Alkyl, or linear or branched C 5 -C 29 And preferably C 7 -C 23 alkenyl;

[0671] -R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0672] -R' may be the same or different and represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl.

[0673] The fatty amidoamine of formula (VI) is selected from, for example, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (especially the one commercialized by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13 sales products), isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauroamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, castor oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, soybean oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocado oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocoamidopropyl dimethylamine, mink oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesameamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, olive oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, rapeseed oilamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0674] Preferably, the fatty amidoamine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, rapeamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0675] The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still selected from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; even better still selected from those of formula (II) above.

[0676] Preferably, the cationic surfactant may be chosen from tetraalkylammonium salts such as chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, wherein the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0677] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimonium chloride, behenyltrimonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0678] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactants in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0679] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the total content of the cationic surfactant to the total content of the amino acid type compound is greater than or equal to 1.

[0680] Cationic polymers

[0681] The composition B used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers other than the associative polymers described above. Thus, this or these cationic polymers are non-associative.

[0682] The term "cationic polymer" indicates any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0683] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents per gram (meq / g), better still less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0684] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of the polymer under conditions where the polymer is completely ionized. If the structure of the polymer (i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions) is known, the cationic charge density can be determined by calculation. The cationic charge density can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0685] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a molecular weight between about 500 and 5×10 6 between and preferably about 10 3 With 3×10 6 The weight average molar mass (Mw) between.

[0686] Cationic polymers that can be used are preferably non-associative.

[0687] Among the cationic polymers that can be used, mention may be made of:

[0688] (1) A homopolymer or copolymer derived from an ester or amide of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and comprising at least one of the units having the formula:

[0689]

[0690] in:

[0691] -R 3 Can be the same or different, indicating hydrogen atoms or CH 3 Group;

[0692] -A may be the same or different and represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0693] -R 4 , R 5 and R 6 may be the same or different and represent an alkyl group or a benzyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0694] -R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group or an ethyl group;

[0695] -X indicates an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methylsulfate anion or a halide ion such as chloride or bromide.

[0696] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from a comonomer which may be selected from the family of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C1-C4) alkyl groups, acrylates or methacrylates, vinyl lactams (such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam) and vinyl esters.

[0697] Among the copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

[0698] - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with dimethyl halide, such as the products sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

[0699] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba Geigy,

[0700] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methylsulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0701] quaternized or nonquaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as copolymers 845, 958 and 937,

[0702] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam / vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0703] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by the company ISP;

[0704] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS100 by the company ISP;

[0705] Preferably, crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as those obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with ethylenically unsaturated compounds, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is manufactured by the company Ciba under the name SC 92. Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers containing about 50% by weight of homopolymer in mineral oil or in liquid esters may also be used. These dispersions are marketed by Ciba under the name SC 95 and SC 96 for sale.

[0706] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and galactomannan gum.

[0707] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0708] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described, inter alia, in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which have been reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0709] Mention may especially be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amergo.

[0710] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcellulose grafted in particular with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts may be mentioned. Most particularly, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose may be mentioned, the quaternizing agent being especially diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0711] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.

[0712] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may be mentioned in particular is the polymer with the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0713] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, especially those containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, especially trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (eg chloride).

[0714] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gum carry cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gum are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, a guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0715] Mention may be made in particular of the products with the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are especially sold by Solvay under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162.

[0716] Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used, mention may also be made of the cationic derivatives of cassia gum, especially those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product with the INCI name cinnamyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0717] (3) polymers composed of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing linear or branched chains, which may be interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings; and also oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers;

[0718] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, in particular prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, diunsaturated derivatives, dihalohydrins, diazotidylium, dihaloacyldiamines, dialkyl halides or, alternatively, with oligomers resulting from the reaction of reactive bifunctional compounds with dihalohydrins, diazotidylium, dihaloacyldiamines, dialkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides or diunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agents are used in a proportion ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they may be quaternized;

[0719] (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional reagents; mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0720] (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylenepolyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between polyalkylenepolyamine and dicarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide of preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular by Hercosett 57 or, in the case of adipic acid / epoxy-propyl / diethylenetriamine copolymers, by Hercosett PD 170 or Delsette 101.

[0721] (7) Cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers containing as the main components of the chain the units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

[0722]

[0723] in

[0724] -k and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum of k+t is equal to 1;

[0725] -R 12 Indicates a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0726] -R 10 and R 11 Independently of each other, indicate C 1 -C 6 Alkyl, C 1 -C 5 Hydroxyalkyl, C 1 -C 4 or, alternatively, R 10 and R 11 Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl may be indicated; R 10 and R 11 Independently of each other, preferred indications C 1 -C 4 alkyl;

[0727] -Y - It is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0728] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymers of diallyl dimethylammonium salt (for example the chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6), sold for example under the name Merquat 100 by Nalco, and of the copolymers of diallyl dimethylammonium salt (for example the chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium-7), especially sold under the names Merquat 550 or Merquat 7 SPR;

[0729] (8) A quaternary diammonium polymer comprising repeating units of the formula:

[0730]

[0731] in:

[0732] -R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 may be the same or different and represent an aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or C 1 -C 12 Hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group;

[0733] Or another R 13 , R14 , R 15 and R 16 together or separately with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocyclic ring optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;

[0734] Or another R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 Indicates nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR 17 -D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group substituted straight or branched chain C 1 -C 6 Alkyl, where R 17 is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0735] -A1 and B1 represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, urea, amide or ester groups attached to or inserted into the main chain, and

[0736] -X - Indicates anions derived from inorganic or organic acids;

[0737] It should be understood that A 1 , R 13 and R 15 can form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached;

[0738] Furthermore, if A1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 may also indicate a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-, wherein n and p may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D indicates:

[0739] a) a diol residue of the formula -OZO-, in which Z indicates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y indicate integers from 1 to 4 representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0740] b) di-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives;

[0741] c) a diprimary diamine residue of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y indicates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or a divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0742] d) a ureidene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0743] Preferably, X - These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100 000.

[0744] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers composed of recurring units corresponding to the following formula:

[0745]

[0746] wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4 may be the same or different, indicate an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic acid or an organic acid.

[0747] Particularly preferred compounds of formula (IV) are those wherein R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 represents methyl, n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0748] (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

[0749]

[0750] in:

[0751] -R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a β-hydroxyethyl group, a β-hydroxypropyl group or a -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH group, wherein p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 Not all hydrogen atoms are represented at the same time.

[0752] -r and s can be the same or different and are integers between 1 and 6,

[0753] -q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

[0754] -X - Indicator anions, such as halides,

[0755] -A indicates a divalent dihalide group or preferably represents -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -.

[0756] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Miranol A 15. AD1, AZ1 and 175.

[0757] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example, marketed by BASF under the name Products sold as FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370.

[0758] (11) Polyamines, such as those sold by Cognis H, which is mentioned in the CTFA dictionary by the name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine;

[0759] (12) A polymer comprising in its structure:

[0760] (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A):

[0761]

[0762] (b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to the following formula (B):

[0763]

[0764] In other words, these polymers may especially be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0765] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising in their structure 5 to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0766] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or alkaline medium.

[0767] The weight-average molecular mass of the polymer measured by light scattering may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.

[0768] Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are especially sold under the name Lupamin by BASF, for example, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0769] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polymers of family (1) and cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose, such as polyquaternium-10; cationic galactomannan gums, especially cationic guar gum; and also mixtures thereof.

[0770] When they are present, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a total amount of cationic polymers ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0771] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount of cationic polysaccharides ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0772] Nonionic polysaccharides

[0773] The composition used according to the invention may optionally comprise, in addition to the associative polymers described above, one or more nonionic polysaccharides. Thus, this or these nonionic polysaccharides are non-associative.

[0774] The nonionic polysaccharide is preferably selected from (alone or as a mixture) cellulose, starch, galactomannan and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular ethers or esters thereof.

[0775] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, temperature may be mentioned, and as chemical treatment, esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions may be mentioned, as long as these treatments make it possible to obtain nonionic polymers.

[0776] As galactomannans that can be used, mention may be made of (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl, especially hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl modified nonionic guar gum.

[0777] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkylene oxides, for example propylene oxide, with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0778] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0779] Such nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI.

[0780] The plant source of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention can be cereals or tubers. Therefore, starch is selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch. Starch can be chemically or physically modified, in particular, by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, cross-linking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0781] The starch molecule may originate from any plant source of starch, such as in particular corn, potato, oat, rice, cassava, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the above mentioned starches. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0782] Nonionic polysaccharides may also be polysaccharides that do not contain C 10 -C 30 A cellulose-based polymer of fatty chains.

[0783] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based" refers to any polysaccharide compound carrying in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked together by β-1,4 bonds; the cellulose-based polymer may be unsubstituted cellulose, and / or a derivative of nonionic cellulose.

[0784] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether / esters.

[0785] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylcelluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g. Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from The Dow Chemical Company); (poly)hydroxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g. Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g. Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl(C 1 -C 4 ) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (eg, Methocel E4M from The Dow Chemical Company), hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose (eg, Bermocoll E 481FQ from Akzo Nobel), and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose.

[0786] Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharide is selected, alone or as a mixture, from cellulose, galactomannan and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular ethers thereof; and more preferably also, alone or as a mixture, from polysaccharides optionally containing (poly)hydroxy (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl modified nonionic guar gum; and / or substituted or substituted cellulose, and cellulose ethers, such as (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl cellulose and (poly) hydroxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl cellulose.

[0787] Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharides are selected, alone or as a mixture, from 1 -C 6) Alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl-modified nonionic guar gum (INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar).

[0788] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount of nonionic polysaccharides ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0789] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight of nonionic polysaccharides chosen from cellulose, galactomannans and their nonionic derivatives (especially their ethers) and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0790] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; in particular one or more cationic polysaccharides and one or more nonionic polysaccharides; and better still one or more cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic guar gum and cationic cellulose and one or more nonionic guar gum.

[0791] Nonionic surfactants

[0792] Composition B used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0793] Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0794] -oxyalkylened (C 8 -C 24 ) alkylphenol;

[0795] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohol, preferably containing one or two fatty chains;

[0796] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylened C 8 To C 30 Fatty acid amides;

[0797] - saturated or unsaturated, straight chain or branched chain C 8 To C 30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols;

[0798] - preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 To C 30Oxyethylidene esters of acids and sorbitol;

[0799] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0800] - optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl (poly)glycosides (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units), which may contain 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0801] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

[0802] - condensation products of ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy;

[0803] -N-(C 8 -C 30 ) alkyl glucosamine and N-(C 8 -C 30 ) acylmethylglucosamine derivatives;

[0804] -Amine oxides.

[0805] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0806] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges especially from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

[0807] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant according to the invention does not comprise any oxypropylene units.

[0808] Preferably, they contain a number of moles ranging from 1 to 250, especially from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50, of ethyleneoxy groups.

[0809] As an example of a glycerolated nonionic surfactant, it is preferred to use a monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 To C 40 alcohol.

[0810] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleyl / cetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and stearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

[0811] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is particularly preferred to use C 8 To C 10 Alcohol, C containing 1 mol of glycerol 10 To C 12 alcohol and C containing 1.5 mol of glycerol 12 alcohol.

[0812] Nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly)glycoside type can be represented in particular by the general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v, wherein:

[0813] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0814] - R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0815] -G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0816] -t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4;

[0817] -v indicates a value ranging from 1 to 15, and preferably 1 to 4.

[0818] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is a compound of the above formula, wherein:

[0819] -R1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0820] - R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0821] -t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

[0822] -G indicates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,

[0823] The degree of polymerization (ie the v value) may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0824] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are usually of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and are preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant. Most particularly preferred are C8 / C16 alkyl (poly) glucosides of the 1-4 type, and especially decyl glucoside and capryl / decanoyl glucoside.

[0825] Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the product manufactured by Corning Inc. under the name (600CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or (818, 1200 and 2000); and by SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and The product sold under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF or the product sold under the name AG10 LK by the company Chem Y.

[0826] Preferably, C8 / C16 alkyl (poly)glycosides of type 1-4 are used, especially in the form of a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by Corning under the reference number Those sold by 818UP.

[0827] The nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0828] - saturated or unsaturated, straight chain or branched, oxydeoxylated C 8 To C 40 alcohols comprising 1 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, preferably 2 to 50 and more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and preferably one or two fatty chains;

[0829] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils containing 1 to 100 and preferably 2 to 50 mol of ethyleneoxy groups;

[0830] -(C 8 -C 30 ) alkyl (poly) glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylened, preferably have 0 to 10 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and contain 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0831] - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C containing 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably 1 to 10 mol of glycerol 8 To C 40 alcohol;

[0832] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylened C 8 To C 30 Fatty acid amides;

[0833] - saturated or unsaturated, straight chain or branched chain C 8 To C 30 Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols;

[0834] - preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 To C 30Oxyethylidene esters of acids and sorbitol;

[0835] More preferably, the nonionic surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture:

[0836] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylidene C 8 To C 40 Alcohols containing 1 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, preferably 2 to 50 and more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and containing one or two fatty chains, especially at least one C 8 -C 20 , especially C 10 -C 18 Alkyl chain,

[0837] - preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 To C 30 Oxyethylidene esters of sorbitol and

[0838] -(C 8 -C 30 )alkyl (poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylened, preferably contain 0 to 10 mol of ethyleneoxy groups and contain 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0839] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of nonionic surfactants ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0840] Fatty substances

[0841] The composition B used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0842] The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance which does not contain any Si-O bonds.

[0843] The term "solid fatty matter" means a substance having a solid mass under atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10 5 Fatty substances having a melting point at 100 °C Pa greater than 25 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 28 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 30 °C.

[0844] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0845] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0846] The term "fatty acid" means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acid according to the present invention preferably comprises 10 to 30 carbon atoms and also better 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylene nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acid that can be used for the present invention is especially selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid (stearylic acid), palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid is different from the previously described (poly) hydroxylated carboxylic acid comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0847] The term "fatty alcohol" means a long-chain fatty alcohol containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylened nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated and are linear or branched and contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, wherein R indicates a linear alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, the alkyl group containing 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms and even better still 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (monohydric) alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0848] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen, alone or as a mixture:

[0849] -Myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0850] - Cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0851] - Stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecyl alcohol);

[0852] -Arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0853] -Behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0854] - wood wax alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0855] -Ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0856] -Mondanol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0857] - Beeswax alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0858] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl stearyl alcohol; still better, the solid fatty alcohol is cetyl stearyl alcohol.

[0859] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols which can be used are preferably selected from the group consisting of C 9 -C 26 Fatty carboxylic acids and / or C 9 -C 26 Esters of fatty alcohols.

[0860] Preferably, the solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms and a linear or branched saturated monohydric alcohol containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acid may optionally be hydroxylated and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0861] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tri-carboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or penta-hydric alcohols.

[0862] Mention may be made especially of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0863] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from palmitic acid, C 9 -C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C 9 -C 26Alkyl esters such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, and myristyl myristate; and stearic acid C 9 -C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0864] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0865] For the purposes of the present invention, waxes are lipophilic compounds that are solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, have a reversible solid / liquid state change, have a melting point greater than about 40° C., which can be as high as 200° C., and have an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, providing a substantially opaque, turbid appearance to the composition containing them. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with the oil and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but when returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is achieved, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).

[0866] In particular, the waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0867] Mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fiber or sugar cane wax, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, vaseline, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes and wax copolymers obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also esters thereof.

[0868] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0869] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0870] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oils, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oils, in particular those marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference No. Products manufactured or sold, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, especially by Heterene under the name Hest Products for sale.

[0871] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name Phytowax Castor by the company Sophim. and The ones that are sold.

[0872] Waxes that can also be used are C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such waxes are especially marketed by Koster Keunen under the name Kester Wax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K 82 and Kester Wax K 80 Sale.

[0873] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microcrystalline waxes, such as those marketed under the name MicroCare by Micro Powders. Products sold; synthetic wax microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name MicroEase Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as that sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care and Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes, such as those sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care Products sold; Polyethylene microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name Micropoly and products sold; and polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline wax, such as that sold by Micronized Powder Company of America under the name Microslip and 519 Products for sale.

[0874] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for example paraffin, vaseline, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes, for example cocoa butter, shea butter or cork or sugar cane wax, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, phragmites wax or neat flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant flower essence wax sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0875] The ceramides or ceramide analogs such as glycoceramides that can be used in the composition according to the invention are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0876] The ceramide or its analogue that can be used preferably corresponds to the following formula:

[0877]

[0878] in:

[0879] - R1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid, which group may be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the α position or a hydroxyl group in the Ω position, which hydroxyl group is esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0880] - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0881] - R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group at the α position, which may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

[0882] It should be understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycosylceramides, R3 may also indicate a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, which hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.

[0883] Preferably, ceramide is used, wherein R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 indicates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0884] More particularly preferred ceramides are compounds in which R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group derived from a C16-C22 fatty acid; R2 indicates a hydrogen atom; and R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain C15 group.

[0885] The following compounds can also be used, wherein R 1 Indicates that it is derived from C 12 -C 22 Saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of fatty acid; R 2 indicates galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl, and R 3 Indicates saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 22 A hydrocarbon-based group and preferably -CH=CH-(CH 2 ) 12 -CH 3 Group.

[0886] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and In particular, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyl sphingosine, N-oleoyl sphingosine, N-palmitoyl sphingosine, N-stearoyl sphingosine, and N-behenoyl sphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucosamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyl sphingosine will be used.

[0887] As liquid fatty substances that can be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils and mixtures thereof.

[0888] Liquid fatty substances have a 5 Pa) of less than or equal to 25° C., preferably less than or equal to 20° C. Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0889] It is contemplated that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids contain more particularly at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical containing 6 to 40 and better still 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally be substituted in particular by one or more, in particular 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0890] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C 6 To C 18 Liquid hydrocarbons, and are linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably selected from C 8 -C 16 , especially C 10 -C 14 Alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0891] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched; mention may be made of liquid paraffin or liquid vaseline, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as and mixtures thereof.

[0892] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, or alternatively, such as sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, aurora oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois in France or by Dynamit Nobel under the name 810, 812 and 818), jojoba oil and shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0893] The liquid fatty alcohol may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0894] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 To C 26 or branched chain C 3 To C 26 Aliphatic monobasic or polybasic acids and saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain C 1 To C 26 or branched chain C 3 To C 26 Esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total carbon number of these esters is greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0895] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0896] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate ; Isostearyl palmitate; Methyl acetyl ricinoleate; Octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; Octyldodecyl erucate; Oleyl erucate; Ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; Alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0897] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0898] Still within the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0899] Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearate; pentaerythritol monoricinoleate; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl tricaprylate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0900] The composition may also contain sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids as fatty esters. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds with several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0901] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0902] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the above-mentioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0903] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0904] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate.

[0905] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleyl palmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0906] An example that may be mentioned is the company established under the name A product sold by DO which is methyl glucose dioleate.

[0907] Preferably, liquid esters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.

[0908] Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C 6 -C 18 Hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0909] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may contain a total content of fatty substances ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and even better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0910] Other compounds

[0911] The composition B used according to the invention advantageously comprises water, especially in a concentration preferably ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0912] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, or even between 4 and 6.

[0913] The composition B used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible) organic solvents which are liquid at 25° C. and 1 atm and may be selected from C 1 -C 6 Aliphatic or aromatic monohydric alcohol, C 2 -C 8 Polyols and C 3 -C 7 Advantageously, the organic solvent is selected from C 2 -C 4 Mono-, di- or tri-diol. It may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

[0914] The composition B used according to the invention may also contain at least one or more standard hairdressing ingredients, which are especially chosen from thickeners, gelling agents (both of which are different from the above-mentioned polymers); screening agents; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, coupling agents, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair straightening agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; mica, mother-of-pearl, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing agents or acidifying agents; silanes. A person skilled in the art will carefully choose the ingredients included in the composition and also their amounts so that they do not impair the properties of the composition of the invention.

[0915] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hair composition B used in the method according to the present invention may comprise:

[0916] - one or more amino acid compounds corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, wherein p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl, which is optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or optionally by one or two groups selected from hydroxy, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH 2 Still better, R represents a hydrogen atom;

[0917] present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0918] one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups and / or their salts, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0919] - optionally one or more associative polymers, which are preferably nonionic and better still chosen from polyether polyurethanes;

[0920] Preferably present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0921] - optionally one or more silicones, preferably chosen from aminosilicones, and mixtures thereof;

[0922] Preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0923] - optionally one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from those of formula (II), formula (V) and / or formula (VI) above, better still from those of formula (II) and / or formula (VI) above;

[0924] Preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0925] - optionally one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from polymers of family (1) and / or cationic polysaccharides, especially chosen from cationic celluloses and / or galactomannan gums; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0926] - optionally one or more nonionic polysaccharides, in particular selected from (alone or as a mixture) optionally with (poly)hydroxy (C 1 -C 6 alkyl) modified nonionic guar gum; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0927] - optionally one or more nonionic surfactants; preferably present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0928] C / Care or conditioning composition C applied in step (iii)

[0929] The hair treatment method according to the invention comprises a step (iii), known as a hair care or conditioning step, which comprises applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0930] Silicone

[0931] The composition C used according to the invention may comprise one or more silicones, which may be chosen in particular from aminosilicones, non-aminosilicone and mixtures thereof. In particular, it may comprise one or more silicones chosen from those described above for composition B, especially aminosilicone.

[0932] Preferably, the aminosilicone is selected, alone or as a mixture:

[0933] - an aminosilicone of formula (II), preferably wherein G indicates C 1 -C 8 alkyl and a=a'=0; most particularly preferred silicones of formula (II) are aminopropyl polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the product sold under the name X-22-9686 by Shin-Etsu;

[0934] - quaternary ammonium silicone of the above formula (IX);

[0935] - aminosilicones of the above formula (XVIII), in particular those wherein n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R"' is identical and is a saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon radical containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R' is -(CH 2 ) 3 -、-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH2 -or-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-group, and R" is -(CH 2 ) 2 -group.

[0936] Advantageously, the composition C used according to the invention may comprise a total content of silicone preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0937] Advantageously, composition C may comprise amino and non-amino silicones in a total content preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0938] Cationic surfactants

[0939] The compositions C used according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0940] The cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say they do not contain any Si-O groups.

[0941] They are preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0942] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants selected, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0943] -Compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II):

[0944]

[0945] in:

[0946] X - is especially selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate or (C 1 -C 4 ) anions of the group consisting of alkylarylsulfonates;

[0947] Group R 1 To R 4may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched aliphatic group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as an aryl group or an alkylaryl group, the group R 1 To R 4 At least one of indicates a straight-chain or branched aliphatic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0948] Aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen, among others. Aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C 1 -C 30 Alkyl, C 1 -C 30 Alkoxy, (C 2 -C 6 ) polyoxyalkylene, C 1 -C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylamide (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate and C 1 -C 30 Hydroxyalkyl.

[0949] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preferred ones are tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyldimethylcetostearylammonium salts or stearylamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts, such as those marketed under the name 70 of those sold.

[0950] Particular preference is given to using the chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of these compounds.

[0951] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (III):

[0952]

[0953] Where R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, derived from tallow fatty acid, R 6 represents hydrogen atom, C 1 -C 4 Alkyl or an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 7 Represents C 1-C 4 Alkyl, R 8 Represents a hydrogen atom or C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, X - is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alkyl aryl sulfonates, wherein the alkyl and aryl groups preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.

[0954] Preferably, R 5 and R 6 indicates a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acid, R 7 indicates methyl and R 8 Indicates hydrogen atoms.

[0955] Such products are sold by Ruiwo Company under the name W 75 Sales,

[0956] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts of formula (IV):

[0957]

[0958] in:

[0959] R 9 indicates an alkyl group containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0960] R 10 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH 2 ) 3 , where R 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0961] X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfate, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfonate and (C 1 -C4 ) alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0962] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (quaternium salt 89) sold by the company Fenda and Finquat CT (quaternium salt 75) sold by the company Fenda;

[0963] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V):

[0964]

[0965] in:

[0966] R 15 Selected from C 1 -C 6 Alkyl and C 1 -C 6 Hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl;

[0967] R 16 Selected from the group R19-C(O)-; the group R 20 , which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 Hydrocarbon-based groups; hydrogen atoms;

[0968] R 18 Selected from the group R21-C(O)-; the group R 22 , which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 Hydrocarbon-based groups; hydrogen atoms;

[0969] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

[0970] r, s and t may be the same or different and are integers having values ​​from 2 to 6;

[0971] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0972] x and z may be the same or different and are integers having values ​​from 0 to 10;

[0973] X - are simple or complex, organic or inorganic anions;

[0974] The premise is that the sum of x+y+z is from 1 to 15; when x is 0, then R16 Indicator R 20 ; and when z is 0, then R 18 Indicator R 22 .

[0975] Alkyl R 15 R may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. 15 Methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl is indicated, and more particularly methyl or ethyl.

[0976] Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z is 1-10.

[0977] When R 16 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 20 When it is present, it may be longer and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be shorter and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0978] When R 18 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 22 When , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0979] Advantageously, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 A hydrocarbon-based group, and more particularly selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 Alkyl and alkenyl.

[0980] Preferably, x and z may be the same or different and equal to 0 or 1.

[0981] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0982] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly equal to 2.

[0983] Anion X - Preferred are halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl sulfates, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, toluenesulfonate, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium carrying an ester function may be used. Anion X - Even more particular are chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0984] In the compositions according to the invention, it is more particularly possible to use ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R 15Indicates methyl or ethyl, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;

[0985] R 16 Selected from the group R19-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, as well as hydrogen atoms;

[0986] R 18 is selected from the group R21-C(=O)- and a hydrogen atom;

[0987] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group is preferably selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 Alkyl and alkenyl.

[0988] Advantageously, these hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

[0989] Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (V), such as diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium and monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium salts (especially chlorides or methyl sulfates), and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0990] These products are prepared, for example, by reacting triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine (which may optionally be oxyalkylened) with C 10 -C 30 Fatty acids or C 10 -C 30 Direct esterification of a mixture of fatty acids, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, ethylene chloride or chloroglycerol.

[0991] Such compounds are marketed, for example, by Henkel under the name Sold by Stepan Company under the name Sold by CECA under the name Sold or sold by Revol-Volkswagen Corporation under the name Sold by WE 18.

[0992] The compositions according to the invention may contain, for example, mixtures of quaternary ammonium monoesters, diesters and triester salts, the majority by weight being the diester salts.

[0993] It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function as described in patents US Pat. No. 4,874,554 and US Pat. No. 4,137,180.

[0994] Behenyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride sold under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 by Kao Corporation may be used.

[0995] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester function contains two ester functions.

[0996] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, preference is given to using dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt.

[0997] The term "fatty amine" means a amine group comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group, or a salt thereof and comprising at least one C 6 -C 30 And preferably C 8 -C 30 Compounds based on hydrocarbon chains.

[0998] Preferably, the fatty amines used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0999] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be carried by the amine group or by the amide group.

[1000] The term "amidoamine" means a compound comprising at least one amide functional group and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group.

[1001] The term "fatty amidoamine" means a fatty amidoamine generally comprising at least one C 6 -C 30 Amidoamines based on hydrocarbon chains. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention are not quaternized.

[1002] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[1003] Among the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR"N(R') 2 (VI)

[1004] in:

[1005] -R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C 5 -C 29 And preferably C 7 -C 23 Alkyl, or linear or branched C 5 -C 29 And preferably C 7 -C 23 alkenyl;

[1006] -R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[1007] -R' may be the same or different and represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl.

[1008] The fatty amidoamine of formula (VI) is selected, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (especially the product sold under the name Lexamine S13 by Indice Chemical Company), isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauroamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, castoramidopropyl dimethylamine, soyaamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocoamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesameamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, oliveamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, rapeamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[1009] Preferably, the fatty amidoamine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, rapeamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[1010] The cationic surfactants are preferably selected from those of the above formulae (II), (V) and / or (VI), and better still from those of the above formulae (II) and / or (VI).

[1011] Preferably, the cationic surfactant may be chosen from tetraalkylammonium salts such as chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, wherein the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[1012] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimonium chloride, behenyltrimonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[1013] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactants in composition C preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[1014] Cationic polymers

[1015] The composition C used according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers.

[1016] The term "cationic polymer" indicates any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[1017] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents per gram (meq / g), better still less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[1018] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of the polymer under conditions of complete ionization thereof. If the structure of the polymer (i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions) is known, the cationic charge density can be determined by calculation. The cationic charge density can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[1019] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a molecular weight between about 500 and 5×10 6 between and preferably about 10 3 With 3×10 6 The weight average molar mass (Mw) between.

[1020] Cationic polymers that can be used are preferably non-associative.

[1021] Among the cationic polymers that can be used, mention may be made of:

[1022] (1) A homopolymer or copolymer derived from an ester or amide of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and comprising at least one of the units having the formula:

[1023]

[1024] in:

[1025] -R 3 Can be the same or different, indicating hydrogen atoms or CH 3 Group;

[1026] -A may be the same or different and represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[1027] -R 4 , R 5 and R 6 may be the same or different and represent an alkyl group or a benzyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[1028] -R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group or an ethyl group;

[1029] -X indicates an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methylsulfate anion or a halide ion such as chloride or bromide.

[1030] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from a comonomer which may be selected from the family of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C1-C4) alkyl groups, acrylates or methacrylates, vinyl lactams (such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam) and vinyl esters.

[1031] Among the copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

[1032] - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with dimethyl halide, such as the products sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

[1033] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba-Geigy,

[1034] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methylsulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[1035] quaternized or nonquaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as copolymers 845, 958 and 937,

[1036] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam / vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[1037] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by the company ISP;

[1038] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS100 by the company ISP;

[1039] Preferably, crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as those obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with ethylenically unsaturated compounds, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is produced by the company Ciba under the name SC 92. Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers containing about 50% by weight of homopolymer in mineral oil or in liquid esters may also be used. These dispersions are marketed by Ciba under the name SC 95 and SC 96 for sale.

[1040] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and galactomannan gum.

[1041] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[1042] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described, inter alia, in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which have been reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[1043] Mention may especially be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amergo.

[1044] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcellulose grafted in particular with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts may be mentioned. Most particularly, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose may be mentioned, the quaternizing agent being especially diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.

[1045] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.

[1046] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may be mentioned in particular is the polymer with the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[1047] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, especially those containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, especially trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (eg chloride).

[1048] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gum carry cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gum are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, a guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[1049] Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Such products are especially sold by the company Solvay under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162.

[1050] Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used, mention may also be made of the cationic derivatives of cassia gum, especially those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product with the INCI name cinnamyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[1051] (3) polymers composed of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing linear or branched chains, which may be interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings; and also oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers;

[1052] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, in particular prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, diunsaturated derivatives, dihalohydrins, diazotidylium, dihaloacyldiamines, dialkyl halides or, alternatively, with oligomers resulting from the reaction of reactive bifunctional compounds with dihalohydrins, diazotidylium, dihaloacyldiamines, dialkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides or diunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agents are used in a proportion ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they may be quaternized;

[1053] (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional reagents; mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[1054] (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylenepolyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between polyalkylenepolyamine and dicarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide of preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular by Hercosett 57 or, in the case of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymers, by Hercosett PD 170 or Delsette 101.

[1055] (7) Cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers containing as the main components of the chain the units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

[1056]

[1057] in

[1058] -k and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum of k+t is equal to 1;

[1059] -R 12 Indicates a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[1060] -R 10 and R 11 Independently of each other, indicate C 1 -C 6 Alkyl, C 1 -C 5 Hydroxyalkyl, C 1 -C 4 or, alternatively, R 10 and R 11 Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl may be indicated; R 10 and R 11 Independently of each other, preferred indications C 1 -C 4alkyl;

[1061] -Y - It is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[1062] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymers of diallyl dimethylammonium salt (for example the chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6), sold for example under the name Merquat 100 by the Nalco Company, and of the copolymers of diallyl dimethylammonium salt (for example the chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium-7), especially sold under the names Merquat 550 or Merquat 7 SPR;

[1063] (8) A quaternary diammonium polymer comprising repeating units of the formula:

[1064]

[1065] in:

[1066] -R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 may be the same or different and represent an aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or C 1 -C 12 Hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group;

[1067] Or another R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 together or separately with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocyclic ring optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;

[1068] Or another R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 Indicates nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR 17 -D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group substituted straight or branched chain C 1 -C 6 Alkyl, where R 17 is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[1069] -A1 and B1 represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, urea, amide or ester groups attached to or inserted into the main chain, and

[1070] -X - Indicates anions derived from inorganic or organic acids;

[1071] It should be understood that A 1 , R 13 and R 15 can form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached;

[1072] Furthermore, if A1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 may also indicate a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-, wherein n and p may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D indicates:

[1073] a) a diol residue of the formula -OZO-, in which Z indicates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y indicate integers from 1 to 4 representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[1074] b) di-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives;

[1075] c) a diprimary diamine residue of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y indicates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or a divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[1076] d) a ureidene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[1077] Preferably, X - These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100 000.

[1078] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers composed of recurring units corresponding to the following formula:

[1079]

[1080] wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4 may be the same or different, indicate an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic acid or an organic acid.

[1081] Particularly preferred compounds of formula (IV) are those wherein R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 represents methyl, n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[1082] (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

[1083]

[1084] in:

[1085] -R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a β-hydroxyethyl group, a β-hydroxypropyl group or a -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH group, wherein p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 Not all hydrogen atoms are represented at the same time.

[1086] -r and s can be the same or different and are integers between 1 and 6,

[1087] -q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

[1088] -X - Indicator anions, such as halides,

[1089] -A indicates a divalent dihalide group or preferably represents -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -.

[1090] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by the company Milano A 15. AD1, AZ1 and 175.

[1091] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example, marketed by BASF under the name Products sold as FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370.

[1092] (11) Polyamines, such as those sold by Corning H, which is mentioned in the CTFA dictionary by the name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine;

[1093] (12) A polymer comprising in its structure:

[1094] (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A):

[1095]

[1096] (b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to the following formula (B):

[1097]

[1098] In other words, these polymers may especially be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[1099] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising in their structure 5 to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).

[1100] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or alkaline medium.

[1101] The weight-average molecular mass of the polymer measured by light scattering may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.

[1102] Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are especially sold under the name Lupamin by BASF, for example, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[1103] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose, such as polyquaternium-10; cationic galactomannan gums, especially cationic guar gum; and also mixtures thereof.

[1104] When they are present, the composition C according to the invention may comprise a total amount of cationic polymers ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[1105] When they are present, the composition C according to the invention may comprise a total amount of cationic polysaccharides ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[1106] Fatty substances

[1107] The composition C used according to the invention may comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[1108] The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance which does not contain any Si-O bonds.

[1109] The term "solid fatty matter" means a solid fatty substance having a 5 Fatty substances having a melting point at 100 °C Pa greater than 25 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 28 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 30 °C.

[1110] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[1111] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[1112] The term "fatty acid" means a long-chain carboxylic acid containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acid according to the present invention preferably contains 10 to 30 carbon atoms and also better 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylene nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acid that can be used for the present invention is especially selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof.

[1113] The term "fatty alcohol" means a long-chain fatty alcohol containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylened nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated and are linear or branched and contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, wherein R indicates a linear alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, the alkyl group containing 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms and even better still 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (monohydric) alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[1114] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen, alone or as a mixture:

[1115] -Myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[1116] - Cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[1117] - Stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecyl alcohol);

[1118] -Arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[1119] -Behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[1120] - wood wax alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[1121] -Ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[1122] -Mondanol (or 1-octacosanol);

[1123] - Beeswax alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[1124] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl stearyl alcohol; still better, the solid fatty alcohol is cetyl stearyl alcohol.

[1125] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols which can be used are preferably selected from the group consisting of C 9 -C 26 Fatty carboxylic acids and / or C 9 -C 26 Esters of fatty alcohols.

[1126] Preferably, the solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms and a linear or branched saturated monohydric alcohol containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acid may optionally be hydroxylated and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[1127] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tri-carboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or penta-hydric alcohols.

[1128] Mention may be made especially of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[1129] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from palmitic acid, C 9 -C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C 9 -C 26 Alkyl esters such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, and myristyl myristate; and stearic acid C 9 -C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[1130] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[1131] For the purposes of the present invention, waxes are lipophilic compounds that are solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, have a reversible solid / liquid state change, have a melting point greater than about 40° C., which can be as high as 200° C., and have an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, providing a substantially opaque, turbid appearance to the composition containing them. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with the oil and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but when returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is achieved, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).

[1132] In particular, the waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[1133] Mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fiber or sugar cane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, vaseline, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes and wax copolymers obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also esters thereof.

[1134] Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[1135] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[1136] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oils, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oils, in particular those marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference No. Products manufactured or sold, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, especially by Heterene under the name Hest Products for sale.

[1137] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name Phytowax Castor by the company Sophim. and The ones that are sold.

[1138] Waxes that can also be used are C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms), either alone or as a mixture. Such waxes are especially available from Kester under the name Kester Wax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K 82 and Kester Wax K 80 Sale.

[1139] It is also possible to use microcrystalline waxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microcrystalline waxes, such as those marketed under the name MicroCare by the American Micronized Company. Products sold; synthetic wax microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name MicroEase Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as that sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care and Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes, such as those sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care Products sold; Polyethylene microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name Micropoly and products sold; and polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline wax, such as that sold by Micronized Powder Company of America under the name Microslip and 519 Products for sale.

[1140] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, such as paraffin, vaseline, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes, such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork or sugar cane wax, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, carnauba wax, chrysanthemum wax, candelilla wax, phragmites wax or neat flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant flower essence wax sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[1141] The ceramides or ceramide analogs such as glycosylceramides that can be used in the composition according to the invention are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[1142] The ceramide or its analogues which can be used preferably correspond to the following formula:

[1143]

[1144] in:

[1145] - R1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid, which group may be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the α position or a hydroxyl group in the Ω position, which hydroxyl group is esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[1146] - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[1147] - R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group at the α position, which may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

[1148] It should be understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycosylceramides, R3 may also indicate a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, which hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.

[1149] Preferably, ceramide is used, wherein R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 indicates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[1150] More particularly preferred ceramides are compounds in which R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group derived from a C16-C22 fatty acid; R2 indicates a hydrogen atom; and R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain C15 group.

[1151] The following compounds can also be used, wherein R 1 Indicates that it is derived from C 12 -C 22 Saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of fatty acid; R 2 indicates galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl, and R 3 Indicates saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 22 A hydrocarbon-based group and preferably -CH=CH-(CH 2 ) 12-CH 3 Group.

[1152] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and In particular, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyl sphingosine, N-oleoyl sphingosine, N-palmitoyl sphingosine, N-stearoyl sphingosine, and N-behenoyl sphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucosamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyl sphingosine will be used.

[1153] As liquid fatty substances that can be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils and mixtures thereof.

[1154] Liquid fatty substances have a 5 Pa) of less than or equal to 25° C., preferably less than or equal to 20° C. Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[1155] It is contemplated that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids contain more particularly at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical containing 6 to 40 and better still 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally be substituted in particular by one or more, in particular 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[1156] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C 6 To C 18 Liquid hydrocarbons, and are linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably selected from C 8 -C 16 , especially C 10 -C 14 Alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[1157] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched; mention may be made of liquid paraffin or liquid vaseline, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as and mixtures thereof.

[1158] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pith oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, aurora oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as those sold by Dibo, France, or by De Nobel under the name 810, 812 and 818), jojoba oil and shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[1159] The liquid fatty alcohol may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[1160] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 To C 26 or branched chain C 3 To C 26 Aliphatic monobasic or polybasic acids and saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain C 1 To C 26 or branched chain C 3 To C 26 Esters of aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total carbon number of these esters is greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[1161] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[1162] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate ; Isostearyl palmitate; Methyl acetyl ricinoleate; Octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; Octyldodecyl erucate; Oleyl erucate; Ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; Alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[1163] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

[1164] Still within the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[1165] Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearate; pentaerythritol monoricinoleate; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl tricaprylate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof.

[1166] The composition may also contain sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids as fatty esters. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds with several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[1167] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[1168] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the above-mentioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[1169] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[1170] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate.

[1171] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleyl palmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[1172] An example that may be mentioned is the company established under the name A product sold by DO which is methyl glucose dioleate.

[1173] Preferably, liquid esters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.

[1174] Preferably, the fatty substance present in composition C is chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C 6 -C 18 Hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[1175] Preferably, composition C may comprise a total amount of fatty substances ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and even better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[1176] Other compounds

[1177] The composition C used according to the invention advantageously comprises water, especially in a concentration preferably ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, in particular from 60% to 85% by weight and better still from 65% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[1178] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, or even between 4 and 6.

[1179] The composition C used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible) organic solvents which are liquid at 25° C. and 1 atm and may be selected from C 1 -C 6 Aliphatic or aromatic monohydric alcohol, C 2 -C 8 Polyols and C 3 -C 7 Advantageously, the organic solvent is selected from C 2 -C 4 Mono-, di- or tri-diol. It may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

[1180] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention, but are not limiting in nature. Unless otherwise indicated, all amounts are indicated as mass percentages (g% AM) of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[1181] Example 1

[1182] The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients (g % AM) shown in the following table:

[1183] [Table 1]

[1184] Composition A Citric Acid 3.0 Glycine 5 Cetrimonium Chloride 1 Hydroxypropyl Guar Gum 0.2 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.2 Quaternary ammonium salt-80 0.4 Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 1 glycerin 15 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.8 Polysorbate 20 0.8 Polysorbate 80 0.8 Propylene glycol 5 preservative Moderate water Appropriate amount to 100%

[1185] The composition is in the form of a lotion and can advantageously be used after shampooing and before using a hair mask or conditioner, without rinsing.

[1186] This procedure provides improved detangling of the hair while increasing care and strength (dimensional and mass effect). The method imparts strengthening properties to the hair.

[1187] The strengthening was measured using the DSC technique.

[1188] (i) Preparation of hair strands

[1189] The measurements are carried out on tresses which have previously been manually bleached and then treated once according to the following regimen: the tresses are washed with a neutral shampoo comprising anionic and amphoteric surfactants, then rinsed, 2 g of the composition from the above example are applied to each 5.7 g tress, the treatment is left on for 5 minutes, then rinsed again and finally a conventional hair mask comprising at least one conditioning agent is applied.

[1190] (ii) Measurement method

[1191] The differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) technique is a method known to those skilled in the art for quantifying the strengthening of proteins in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137 (1993). The principle of the test is to measure the denaturation temperature of the protein. It is generally believed that the higher the denaturation temperature of the protein, the better the integrity of the protein in the cortex, which is reflected in the reduction of fiber breakage.

[1192] The denaturation temperature is directly related to the binding density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex. Therefore, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the binding density between the proteins: the disulfide bridges break and the cortex is damaged. A person skilled in the art considers a difference of 2°C to be a significant change.

[1193] The machine used to make the measurements was a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference instrument. This machine measures the energy flow during heating of the sample. The temperature of the maximum energy flow represents the denaturation temperature.

[1194] (iii) Results

[1195] The results of the denaturation temperature (Td) measurements of each tress treated according to the previously described protocol are summarized in the table below and correspond to the average of three measurements carried out on each tress.

[1196] [Table 2]

[1197]

[1198] These results show that the method according to the invention increases the binding density of keratin present in the cortex of the treated hair, thus making it possible to repair damaged hair.

[1199] Example 2

[1200] The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients (g % AM) shown in the following table:

[1201] [Table 3]

[1202] Composition B Citric Acid 3.0 Glycine 5 Cetrimonium Chloride 0.5 Quaternary ammonium salt-80 0.4 Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 1 glycerin 15 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.8 Polysorbate 20 0.8 Polysorbate 80 0.8 Propylene glycol 5 preservative Moderate water Appropriate amount to 100%

[1203] The composition is in the form of a lotion and can advantageously be used after shampooing and before using a hair mask or conditioner, without rinsing.

[1204] Such compositions can be used to detangle hair while adding conditioning, shine and strength (dimensional and mass effect).

[1205] Hair is left softer, hydrated, and shinier; it is considered stronger and less prone to breakage.

[1206] Thus, the composition has strengthening properties and reduces the calcium content of the hair fiber after application.

[1207] Strengthening was measured by DSC according to the method described above.

[1208] The measurements are carried out on tresses that have been previously bleached manually and then treated five times (or ten times) according to the following regimen: the tresses are washed with a conventional neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2 g of a composition according to the invention are applied per 5.7 g of tress, and then 2 g of a conventional hair mask are applied without rinsing, the mask is left on for 5 minutes and then rinsed again.

[1209] This procedure according to the invention was compared with the following control procedure (without application of the composition of the invention): the locks were washed with a conventional neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2 g of a conventional hair mask (same procedure as according to the invention) were applied, the mask was left on for 5 minutes and then rinsed again.

[1210] The following results were obtained (average of three measurements per tress):

[1211] [Table 4]

[1212] Td(℃) Standard Deviation Natural hair strands (before bleaching) 153.31 1.36 Untreated bleached hair 138.73 0.75 Bleached hair strands treated five times with the procedure of the invention 159.7 1.40 Bleached hair tresses treated five times with the comparison procedure 140.8 0.32

[1213] These results show that the method according to the invention increases the binding density of keratin present in the cortex of the treated hair, thus making it possible to repair damaged hair.

[1214] Calcium analysis by X-ray fluorescence according to the RC-ANA-MET-1414 method.

[1215] These measurements were carried out on hair locks treated according to the procedure of the invention and according to the comparative procedure described above.

[1216] The following results were obtained:

[1217] [Table 5]

[1218]

[1219] It can thus be seen that, after application, the calcium concentration of the hair locks treated according to the invention is significantly reduced.

Claims

1. A method for cosmetically treating hair, the method comprising: - a step (i) of washing the hair, said step comprising applying a washing cosmetic composition A comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, followed by - a step (ii) of applying to the hair a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or salts thereof, followed by - a step (iii) of conditioning the hair, said step comprising applying a cosmetic care composition C comprising one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones, fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

2. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein: The amino acid compound is selected from compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, or zinc salts: Where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it should be understood that: - when p=1, R and the nitrogen atom form a saturated heterocyclic ring containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which ring may be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl; - When p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, straight chain or branched (C1-C 12 )alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which is optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; even better, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

3. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The amino acid compound is selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof, especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from glycine, salts thereof, especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof.

4. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The total content of the amino acid type compound ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, particularly from 0.7 to 8% by weight, and better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two to three COOH groups; and / or salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts; preferably chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts; most particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid and also salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; better still citric acid or salts thereof, in particular alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate.

6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing in total from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition comprises one or more associative polymers, preferably nonionic, preferably chosen from polyether polyurethanes; the total content of said associative polymers ranges especially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition comprises one or more silicones, preferably chosen from aminosilicones; the total content of said silicones ranges especially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.7% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants, the total amount of which ranges especially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition comprises one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose, cationic galactomannan gum, especially cationic guar gum, and also mixtures thereof; the total amount of cationic polymers ranges in particular from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition comprises one or more nonionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen - alone or as a mixture - from cellulose, galactomannans and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular from ethers thereof; better still chosen - alone or as a mixture - from nonionic guar gum optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl, and / or substituted or unsubstituted cellulose, and cellulose ethers such as (C1-C4)alkylcellulose and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcellulose; preferably chosen - alone or as a mixture - from nonionic guar gum optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl; the total amount of the nonionic polysaccharides preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, the total content of which ranges in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

13. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The composition comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C 18 Hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; the total amount of said non-silicone fatty substances ranges especially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The method according to claim 1 for treating hair, in particular for washing and / or conditioning sensitized, brittle and / or damaged hair, or hair loaded with metals in an amount of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm; in particular with copper in an amount of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm, and / or with calcium in an amount of at least 4000 ppm, better still at least 10 000 ppm.

Images