A soothing repair composition for dry sensitive skin and its preparation method and application

Abstract

The present disclosure provides a soothing repair composition for dry sensitive skin and its preparation method and application, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics. The soothing repair composition of the present disclosure is a liposome structure. Cephalin and ceramide-EOP form a cephalin-ceramide complex, which serves as the shell layer of the liposome. The plant moulting hormone and glycerophosphoinositol choline salt are wrapped inside the liposome. The soothing repair composition with the liposome structure has excellent moisturizing, soothing and repairing effects.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present disclosure relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a soothing repair composition for dry sensitive skin and a preparation method and application thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] Dry sensitive skin is a skin type that is often dry, tight and sensitive to external stimuli. This skin usually lacks the necessary moisture and sebum, resulting in a weakened skin barrier that is easily irritated by environmental factors such as wind, cold air, sunlight and cosmetic ingredients, showing dryness and roughness, and may be accompanied by desquamation. After washing the face or going out, the skin often feels tight and uncomfortable, is sensitive to external stimuli, and is prone to redness, itching or burning, and due to the weak barrier function, is prone to problems such as allergy, inflammation and eczema. This group of people has a special skin condition and needs more targeted care. The inventors found through sensitive skin lipidomics research that dry sensitive skin, compared to healthy skin and oily sensitive skin, lacks lipid components that keep the skin closed, resulting in rapid loss of transdermal water. SUMMARY

[0003] The present disclosure aims to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a soothing repair composition for dry sensitive skin and a preparation method and application thereof.

[0004] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the technical solution adopted by the present disclosure is as follows: In a first aspect, a soothing repair composition for dry sensitive skin is provided, comprising the following components by weight: 1-20 parts of cephalin, 0.3-7 parts of ceramide-EOP, 0.1-1 part of plant ecdysone, 0.1-3 parts of glycerophosphoinositol choline salt, 64.5-80 parts of water, the soothing repair composition being a liposome with a core-shell structure, wherein the cephalin and ceramide-EOP are the shell layer of the liposome, and the plant ecdysone, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and water are the core layer of the liposome.

[0005] In some embodiments, the soothing repair composition comprises the following components by mass percentage: 4.5-12 parts of cephalin, 1.5-3.5 parts of ceramide-EOP, 0.1-0.5 part of plant ecdysone, 0.5-1 part of glycerophosphoinositol choline salt, and 70-80 parts of water.

[0006] In some embodiments, the soothing repair composition further comprises a surfactant, the mass of the surfactant being 0.5-2% of the total weight of the soothing repair composition, and the surfactant being a mixture of steareth and glycerol fatty acid ester.

[0007] In a second aspect, a preparation method of the soothing repair composition is provided, comprising the following steps:

[0008] The cephalin and ceramide-EOP are added into ethanol, mixed uniformly, and then the ethanol is removed to obtain a lipid film;

[0009] The plant moulting hormone, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and water are mixed uniformly to obtain an aqueous solution, which is added into the lipid film, and then heated and stirred uniformly, and then homogenized at a pressure of 500-800 bar and a rotation speed of 1000-2000 rpm for 3-5 min, and then the obtained product is filtered to remove the un-wrapped components to obtain the soothing repair composition.

[0010] In some embodiments, the temperature of the heating and stirring is 40-60℃.

[0011] In some embodiments, the lipid film further comprises a surfactant, and the mass of the surfactant is 0.5-2% of the total weight of the soothing repair composition.

[0012] In a third aspect, the soothing repair composition is used in the preparation of a cosmetic product.

[0013] In a fourth aspect, a cosmetic product is provided, which comprises the soothing repair composition, and the mass percentage of the soothing repair composition in the cosmetic product is 1-5%.

[0014] In some embodiments, the cosmetic product is at least one of a cosmetic water, an emulsion, a cream, a mask, a serum, and a spray.

[0015] In some embodiments, the cosmetic product is a serum, and the serum comprises the following components in the following mass percentages: 1-5% of the soothing repair composition, 0.05-0.3% of a thickening agent, 0.5-1% of a humectant, 0.5-5% of an emulsifier, 0.5-3% of a preservative, 0.01-0.3% of a pH regulator, and water in the remainder.

[0016] In some embodiments, the thickening agent comprises at least one of xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurate sodium copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, arthrobium gum, and cetyl alcohol;

[0017] And / or, the humectant comprises at least one of allantoin, sodium polyacrylate, hydrogenated lecithin, betaine, beta-glucan, trehalose, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, 1,2-butanediol, glycerol, pullulan, ceramide, and D-panthenol;

[0018] And / or, the pH regulator comprises at least one of arginine, tromethamine, and disodium EDTA;

[0019] and / or the emulsifier comprises at least one of caprylocapryl glyceride, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetylstearyl glucoside, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraester, dimethicone, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, pentaerythrityl distearate, sucrose stearate, glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate);

[0020] and / or the preservative comprises at least one of 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

[0021] Compared with the prior art, the soothing repair composition of the present disclosure has the following beneficial effects: the soothing repair composition of the present disclosure is a liposome structure, the cephalin and ceramide-EOP form a cephalin-ceramide complex, which is a shell layer of the liposome, and the plant moulting hormone and glycerophosphoinositol choline salt are wrapped in the inside of the liposome; on the one hand, the structure of the liposome enables the soothing repair composition to more accurately target the damaged position of the skin and play a repair role; on the other hand, the structure of the liposome enables the plant moulting hormone and glycerophosphoinositol choline salt to effectively penetrate the skin and directly act on the deep layer of the skin, thereby improving the utilization rate of the active ingredients; it is helpful to achieve the effects of continuous moisturizing, repairing and soothing and enhance the overall effect of the product; on the other hand, the cephalin-ceramide complex enhances the stability and rheology of the skin cell membrane, promotes the skin cells to enhance the resistance to external stimuli, so as to achieve the effects of repair, moisturizing and soothing, and make the skin strong and tough. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0022] Figure 1 Zebrafish tail fin repair effect diagram for Example 1 and Comparative Example 1. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0023] In order to facilitate the understanding of the present disclosure, the present disclosure will be described more fully below. However, the present disclosure can be implemented in many different forms and is not limited to the embodiments described herein. On the contrary, the purpose of providing these embodiments is to make the disclosure of the present disclosure more thorough and comprehensive.

[0024] As used herein, the term:

[0025] “Prepared from” is synonymous with “comprising”. The terms “comprising”, “including”, “having” “with” or any other variation thereof, as used herein, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a composition, step, method, article, or device that comprises a listed element does not necessarily have to be limited to those elements, but can include other elements not explicitly listed or inherent to such composition, step, method, article, or device.

[0026] The conjunctive term "comprising" as used in the claims is used to mean a non-exclusive inclusion. That is, a process, method, article or apparatus that comprises a list of elements is not necessarily limited to those elements, but can include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or apparatus. The conjunctive term "consisting of" is used to mean an exclusive inclusion, that is, a process, method, article or apparatus consisting of a list of elements includes only those elements and excludes any other element. The conjunctive term "consisting essentially of" is used to mean an exclusive inclusion, that is, a process, method, article or apparatus consisting essentially of a list of elements includes those elements and any other elements that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the process, method, article or apparatus. The conjunctive term "by" is used to mean an exclusive inclusion, that is, a process, method, article or apparatus by a list of elements includes only those elements and excludes any other element. When the phrase "consisting of" follows the introductory paraphrase of a claim, for example, "consisting of A and B," it defines an open claim requiring the presence of A and B, but allowing the presence of other elements as well. When the phrase "consisting essentially of occurs following the introductory paraphrase of a claim, for example, "consisting essentially of A, B and C," it defines a closed claim that does not require the presence of A, B or C, but allows the presence of only those elements that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristic(s) of the claimed subject matter.

[0027] When equivalent, concentration, or other values or parameters are expressed in ranges, preferred ranges, or a series of upper preferred values and lower preferred values, it is to be understood that all ranges formed by any pair of any upper range limit or preferred value and any lower range limit or preferred value, even if the range is not expressly stated, is expressly disclosed. For example, where a range "1-5" is disclosed, the disclosure is to be interpreted to include ranges "1-4," "1-3," "1-2," "1-2 and 4-5," "1-3 and 5," etc. When numerical ranges are disclosed, unless otherwise stated, the range is intended to include all integers and fractions within the range.

[0028] In these embodiments, the parts and percentages described are by mass, unless otherwise indicated.

[0029] "Mass parts" refers to a basic unit of measurement that represents the proportional relationship of the mass of multiple components, 1 part can represent any unit mass, such as 1 g, 2.689 g, etc. If we say that the mass parts of component A is a parts, and the mass parts of component B is b parts, it means that the ratio of the mass of component A to the mass of component B is a:b. Alternatively, it means that the mass of component A is aK, and the mass of component B is bK (K is an arbitrary number, indicating a multiple factor). It should not be misunderstood that, unlike mass parts, the sum of the mass parts of all components is not limited to 100 parts.

[0030] "and / or" is used to indicate one or both of the stated circumstances can occur, for example, A and / or B includes (A and B) and (A or B).

[0031] In a first aspect, a soothing repair composition for dry sensitive skin is provided, comprising the following components by weight: 1-20 parts of cephalin, 0.3-7 parts of ceramide-EOP, 0.1-1 part of plant moulting hormone, 0.1-3 parts of glycerophosphoinositol choline salt, 64.5-80 parts of water, the soothing repair composition is a liposome with core-shell structure, wherein the cephalin and ceramide-EOP are the shell layer of the liposome, and the plant moulting hormone and glycerophosphoinositol choline salt are the core layer of the liposome.

[0032] The weight parts of the cephalin can be, but are not limited to, 0.7 parts, 1 part, 3 parts, 5 parts, 7 parts, 9 parts, 10 parts, 15 parts, 20 parts, 25 parts, 30 parts, 33 parts, 35 parts; preferably 4.5-12 parts in different embodiments.

[0033] The weight parts of the ceramide-EOP can be, but are not limited to, 0.3 parts, 0.5 parts, 0.7 parts, 1 part, 2 parts, 3 parts, 4 parts, 5 parts, 6 parts, 6.5 parts, 6.8 parts, 7 parts; preferably 1.5-3.5 parts in different embodiments.

[0034] The weight parts of the glycerophosphoinositol choline salt can be, but are not limited to, 0.1 parts, 0.3 parts, 0.6 parts, 0.9 parts, 1.2 parts, 1.5 parts, 1.8 parts, 2.1 parts, 2.4 parts, 2.7 parts, 3 parts; preferably 0.5-1 parts 0.5-1 parts in different embodiments.

[0035] The weight parts of the plant ecdysone can be, but are not limited to, 0.1 parts, 0.2 parts, 0.3 parts, 0.4 parts, 0.5 parts, 0.6 parts, 0.7 parts, 0.8 parts, 0.9 parts, 1 part; preferably 0.1-0.5 parts in different embodiments.

[0036] The weight parts of the water can be, but are not limited to, 64.5 parts, 67 parts, 70 parts, 73 parts, 75 parts, 78 parts, 80 parts; preferably 70-80 parts in different embodiments.

[0037] The soothing repair composition of the present disclosure is a liposome structure, and the cephalin and the ceramide-EOP form a cephalin-ceramide complex as a shell layer of the liposome, and the plant ecdysone and the glycerophosphoinositol choline salt are wrapped in the inside of the liposome; on the one hand, the structure of the liposome enables the soothing repair composition to more accurately target the damaged position of the skin and play a repair role; on the other hand, the structure of the liposome enables the plant ecdysone and the glycerophosphoinositol choline salt to effectively penetrate the skin and directly act on the deep layer of the skin, thereby improving the utilization rate of the active ingredients; helping to achieve the effects of continuous moisturizing, repairing and soothing, and enhancing the overall effect of the product; on the other hand, the cephalin-ceramide complex enhances the stability and rheology of the skin cell membrane, promotes the skin cells to enhance the resistance to external stimuli, to achieve the effects of repair, moisturizing and soothing, and makes the skin strong and tough.

[0038] Specifically, the cephalins play an important role in the skin barrier, enhancing the stability and rheology of cell membranes, promoting moisture retention, and improving the skin's ability to retain moisture. In addition, it is also involved in cell signaling, helping to resist external stimuli and maintain skin health. Ceramide EOP is an important component of skin lipids, as a key ingredient connecting the lipid layer, deeply embedded in the skin structure, enhancing barrier function and improving dry and sensitive skin. Its effects include moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, promoting tissue healing, and improving skin elasticity, effectively maintaining skin health. Plant moulting hormone is a plant estrogen that can mimic the effects of estrogen, promoting the growth and renewal of skin cells. It helps to enhance the skin barrier, improve moisture retention, and reduce the discomfort of dry and sensitive skin. In addition, plant moulting hormone also helps to improve skin elasticity and overall skin condition. Glycerophosphoinositol choline salt is a salt synthesized from glycerophosphoinositol and choline, which helps to maintain skin hydration and barrier function. It can promote the synthesis of intercellular lipids, enhance the skin barrier, and prevent water loss, thereby improving dry and sensitive symptoms.

[0039] In some embodiments, the soothing repair composition further comprises a surfactant, the mass of the surfactant is 0.5-2% of the total weight of the soothing repair composition, for example, but not limited to, 0.5%, 0.7%, 1%, 1.2%, 1.4%, 1.6%, 1.8%, 2%;

[0040] The surfactant is a mixture of steareth and glycerol fatty acid ester.

[0041] It is found through research that the addition of a surfactant composed of steareth and glycerol fatty acid ester in the soothing repair composition can effectively increase the stability of the liposome shell layer and improve the moisturizing, repairing, and soothing effects of the soothing repair composition. If the mass of the surfactant is too high, it will cause the shell layer of the liposome to be too thick, resulting in the plant moulting hormone and glycerophosphoinositol choline salt not being able to exert the moisturizing, repairing, and soothing effects in time, and the moisturizing, repairing, and soothing effects of the soothing repair composition being reduced; if the mass of the surfactant is too small, the improvement of the stability of the liposome is not obvious.

[0042] Illustratively, the steareth can be at least one of steareth-21 and steareth-2;

[0043] Illustratively, the glycerol fatty acid ester can be at least one of glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, and glyceryl myristate.

[0044] The mass ratio of steareth and glycerol fatty acid ester in the present application is not specifically limited, preferably, the mass ratio of steareth and glycerol fatty acid ester is 4:1-1:3, for example, but not limited to, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3.

[0045] In a second aspect, a method for preparing the soothing repair composition is provided, comprising the following steps:

[0046] adding the cephalin and ceramide-EOP into ethanol, mixing uniformly, removing the ethanol, and obtaining a lipid membrane;

[0047] mixing the plant moulting hormone, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and water uniformly to obtain an aqueous solution, adding the aqueous solution into the lipid membrane, mixing uniformly under heating, homogenizing under the conditions of a pressure of 500-800 bar and a rotation speed of 1000-2000 rpm for 3-5 min, and filtering the obtained product to remove the un-wrapped components, thereby obtaining the soothing repair composition.

[0048] In different embodiments, the pressure for homogenization can be, but is not limited to, 500 bar, 550 bar, 600 bar, 650 bar, 700 bar, 750 bar, 800 bar.

[0049] In different embodiments, the rotation speed for homogenization can be, but is not limited to, 1000 rpm, 1200 rpm, 1400 rpm, 1600 rpm, 1800 rpm, 2000 rpm.

[0050] In different embodiments, the number of times for homogenization is 3-5 times.

[0051] In some embodiments, the temperature for heating and mixing is 40-60℃, for example, can be, but is not limited to, 40℃, 45℃, 50℃, 55℃, 60℃.

[0052] In the present application, the cephalin and ceramide-EOP are first prepared into a lipid membrane, and then the lipid membrane is added into a mixed solution of the plant moulting hormone, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and water to be completely wetted, followed by homogenization, thereby obtaining liposomes with high encapsulation efficiency. If the pressure or rotation speed for homogenization is too low, emulsification and dispersion will not be sufficient, the formed lipid particles will be too large, and the encapsulation efficiency of the plant moulting hormone and glycerophosphoinositol choline salt will decrease. If the pressure or rotation speed for homogenization is too high, the lipid membrane will be damaged or the emulsion phase will be broken, thereby forming unstable liposomes, and air bubbles will be introduced, which will affect the stability and uniformity of the liposomes.

[0053] In some embodiments, the lipid membrane further comprises a surfactant, and the mass of the surfactant is 0.5-2% of the total weight of the soothing repair composition, for example, can be, but is not limited to, 0.5%, 0.7%, 1%, 1.2%, 1.4%, 1.6%, 1.8%, 2%.

[0054] In the process of preparing the lipid film, the addition of the surfactant composed of stearyl alcohol polyether and glycerol fatty acid ester can effectively increase the stability of the liposome shell layer, and improve the moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects of the soothing repair composition. If the mass of the surfactant is too high, the shell layer of the liposome will be too thick, which will cause the plant molting hormone and glycerophosphoinositol choline salt to be unable to exert the moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects in time, so that the moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects of the soothing repair composition are reduced; if the mass of the surfactant is too small, the improvement of the stability of the liposome is not obvious.

[0055] Specifically, the separation method of the liposome is not limited as long as the liposome and the un-wrapped liquid can be separated, such as centrifugation, filtration, precipitation and the like, and the present application preferably uses centrifugation as the separation method of the liposome; specifically, the rotation speed of the centrifugation is 3000-5000 rpm, and the time is 10-15 min.

[0056] In a second aspect, the application provides the use of the soothing repair composition in the preparation of a cosmetic product.

[0057] In a third aspect, the application provides a cosmetic product comprising the soothing repair composition, wherein the mass percentage content of the soothing repair composition in the cosmetic product is 1-5%, for example, but not limited to, 1%, 1.2%, 1.5%, 1.7%, 2%, 2.3%, 2.5%, 2.8%, 3%, 3.2%, 3.5%, 3.7%, 4%, 4.3%, 4.5%, 4.8%, or 5%.

[0058] In addition to the above-mentioned extracts, the composition used according to the application generally comprises a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, meaning a medium that is suitable for use in contact with the human skin without toxicity, incompatibility, instability, or allergic reactions, and in particular without causing sensations of discomfort (redness, tightness, stinging). Advantageously, the cosmetic product can be in the form of a powder, an emulsion, a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a suspension, a solution, a lotion, a cream, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, a foam, a solution or dispersion for an aerosol, or a lipid vesicle dispersion. In the case of an emulsion, it can be a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0059] In some embodiments, the cosmetic product is at least one of a cosmetic water, an emulsion, a cream, a mask, a serum, a spray.

[0060] In some embodiments, the cosmetic product is a serum, and the serum comprises the following components in the following mass percentage: 1-5% soothing repair composition, 0.05-0.3% thickening agent, 0.5-1% humectant, 0.5-5% emulsifier, 0.5-3% preservative, 0.01-0.3% pH adjuster, and water in the balance.

[0061] As in different embodiments, the soothing repair composition can have a mass percent content of, but not limited to, 0.5%, 0.7%, 1%, 1.2%, 1.5%, 1.7%, 2%, 2.3%, 2.5%, 2.8%, 3%, 3.2%, 3.5%, 3.7%, 4%, 4.3%, 4.5%, 4.8%, 5%;

[0062] As in different embodiments, the thickening agent can have a mass percent content of, but not limited to, 0.05%, 0.07%, 0.1%, 0.12%, 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.23%, 0.25%, 0.28%, 0.3%;

[0063] As in different embodiments, the humectant can have a mass percent content of, but not limited to, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%;

[0064] As in different embodiments, the emulsifier can have a mass percent content of, but not limited to, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5%;

[0065] As in different embodiments, the preservative can have a mass percent content of, but not limited to, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.8%, 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.2%, 2.4%, 2.6%, 2.8%, 3%;

[0066] As in different embodiments, the pH adjuster can have a mass percent content of, but not limited to, 0.05%, 0.07%, 0.1%, 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3%.

[0067] In some embodiments, the thickening agent comprises at least one of xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, xanthan gum, cetyl alcohol;

[0068] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of allantoin, sodium polyacrylate, hydrogenated lecithin, betaine, beta-glucan, trehalose, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, 1,2-butanediol, glycerin, pullulan, ceramide, D-panthenol;

[0069] In some embodiments, the pH adjuster comprises at least one of arginine, tromethamine, disodium EDTA;

[0070] In some embodiments, the emulsifier comprises at least one of caprylic capric triglyceride, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetyl stearyl glucoside, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraester, dimethicone, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, pentaerythrityl distearate, sucrose stearate, glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate);

[0071] In some embodiments, the preservative comprises at least one of 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-pentanediol.

[0072] The cosmetic of the present application can be prepared by any suitable method known in the art. For example, the preparation can be carried out according to the processes known in the art using equipment commonly used in the cosmetic field, such as dissolving tanks, emulsifying kettles, dispersers, delivery pumps, etc. For example, water-soluble substances can be first put into a water-phase dissolving kettle, and oil-soluble substances (e.g. sunscreen agents, oils) can be put into an oil-phase dissolving kettle, and the temperature of the two kettles can be heated to about 80°C, wherein for materials prone to caking, they can be pre-dispersed using a disperser; for example, powder substances (e.g. zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) can be dispersed using a suitable solvent and dispersant, and then homogenized for 5-10 min, and then added to the oil phase, and then homogenized again for 5-10 min; after homogenization is completed, the oil phase and the water phase can be delivered to an emulsifying kettle, and homogenized for about 5-15 min; after emulsification is completed, the temperature of the material can be reduced to room temperature, and optionally, fragrances, preservatives, etc. can be added, and the pH of the product can be adjusted as needed; after relevant detection indexes are qualified, the product can be filled and discharged.

[0073] The above preparation process is merely exemplary, and a person skilled in the art can increase or adjust it according to the requirements of the dosage form, so as to prepare various dosage forms such as sprays, emulsions, gels / jellies, creams, air cushions / foundations, etc.

[0074] In order to further illustrate the present application, the soothing and repairing composition for dry and sensitive skin and its application provided by the present application are described in detail below in conjunction with the drawings and examples, but they should not be understood as limiting the scope of protection of the present application.

[0075] The raw materials used in the examples and comparative examples are described as follows, but are not limited to these materials:

[0076] Cephalins were purchased from Beijing Huaxia Chuduo Biological Technology Co., Ltd., ceramides EOP were purchased from Suzhou Nakang Biological Technology Co., Ltd., glycerophosphoinositol choline salt was purchased from Huzhou Purui Biological Medicine Technology Co., Ltd., and plant moulting hormone was purchased from Nanjing Bemuda Biological Technology Co., Ltd.

[0077] Examples 1-13 and Comparative Examples 1-6

[0078] Embodiments 1-13 and Comparative Examples 1-6 of the present application provide a soothing repair composition, components of which are shown in Tables 1 and 2;

[0079] The method for preparing the soothing repair composition of Embodiments 1-13 and Comparative Examples 1-6 is as follows:

[0080] The components are weighed according to the weight parts of Tables 1 and 2;

[0081] The cephalin, ceramide-EOP and surfactant are added to ethanol, mixed uniformly, and then the ethanol is removed using a rotary evaporator at a temperature of 45°C to obtain a lipid film;

[0082] The plant moulting hormone, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and water are mixed uniformly to obtain an aqueous solution, which is added to the lipid film. After gently shaking to completely wet the lipid film, it is stirred at a temperature of 50°C for 5 min, then homogenized at a pressure of 600 bar and a rotation speed of 1500 rpm for 3 min, for a total of 5 times. The product is centrifuged at a temperature of 4°C and a rotation speed of 3000 rpm for 15 min, and the supernatant obtained is the soothing repair composition.

[0083] Table 1

[0084]

[0085]

[0086] Table 2

[0087]

[0088] Embodiment 14

[0089] The soothing repair composition of this embodiment has the same composition as Embodiment 1, and the method for preparing the soothing repair composition of this embodiment is as follows:

[0090] The cephalin and ceramide-EOP are added to ethanol, mixed uniformly, and then the ethanol is removed using a rotary evaporator at a temperature of 45°C to obtain a lipid film;

[0091] The plant moulting hormone, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and water are mixed uniformly to obtain an aqueous solution, which is added to the lipid film. After gently shaking to completely wet the lipid film, it is stirred at a temperature of 40°C for 8 min, then homogenized at a pressure of 500 bar and a rotation speed of 2000 rpm for 4 min, for a total of 4 times. The product is centrifuged at a temperature of 4°C and a rotation speed of 3000 rpm for 15 min, and the supernatant obtained is the soothing repair composition.

[0092] Embodiment 15

[0093] The composition of the soothing repair composition of the present example is the same as that of Example 1, and the preparation method of the soothing repair composition of the present example is as follows:

[0094] The brain phospholipid and ceramide-EOP are added into ethanol, and after being uniformly mixed, the ethanol is removed by using a rotary evaporator at a temperature of 45℃ to obtain a lipid membrane;

[0095] The plant moulting hormone, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and water are uniformly mixed to obtain an aqueous solution, and the aqueous solution is added into the lipid membrane. After the lipid membrane is completely wetted by gentle shaking, it is stirred at a temperature of 60℃ for 3 min, and then homogenized at a pressure of 800 bar and a rotation speed of 1000 rpm for 5 min, for a total of 3 times. The obtained product is centrifuged at a temperature of 4℃ and a rotation speed of 3000 rpm for 15 min, and the obtained supernatant is the soothing repair composition.

[0096] Comparative Example 7

[0097] The composition of the soothing repair composition of the present example is the same as that of Example 1, and the preparation method of the soothing repair composition of the present example is as follows:

[0098] Comparative Example 8

[0099] The composition of the soothing repair composition of the present example is the same as that of Example 1, and the preparation method of the soothing repair composition of the present example is as follows:

[0100] Comparative Example 9

[0101] The composition of the soothing repair composition of the present example is the same as that of Example 1, and the preparation method of the soothing repair composition of the present example is as follows:

[0102] Application Examples 1-17, Comparative Application Examples 1-9 and Blank Application Example

[0103] The present application example, comparative application example and blank application example provide a serum, and the components (mass percentage content) of the serum are shown in Table 3; wherein the soothing repair compositions used in application examples 1-15 are respectively the soothing repair compositions prepared in examples 1-15, the soothing repair compositions used in comparative application examples 1-9 are respectively the soothing repair compositions prepared in comparative examples 1-9; the soothing repair compositions used in application examples 16-17 are the soothing repair composition prepared in example 1;

[0104] The preparation method of the essence of the application example, the comparative application example and the blank application example is as follows:

[0105] (1) The humectant, thickening agent and water were mixed and stirred, heated to 85°C, then homogenized at a speed of 1200 rpm for 4 min, and after homogenization, the mixture was kept warm for standby, to obtain a pre-prepared A component;

[0106] (2) The emulsifiers were mixed, heated to 85°C, then homogenized at a speed of 1200 rpm for 4 min, and after homogenization, the mixture was kept warm for standby, to obtain a pre-prepared B component;

[0107] (3) The preservatives were mixed and heated to 60°C to melt, to obtain a pre-prepared C component;

[0108] (4) The pre-prepared A component was warmed to 80°C, the pre-prepared B component was added at a speed of 250 rpm, and the mixture was stirred and mixed uniformly, then cooled to 60°C, the pre-prepared C component was added at a speed of 250 rpm, and the mixture was stirred and mixed, then cooled to below 40°C, the soothing repair composition was added, and the mixture was stirred for 5 min, finally the pH adjuster was added to adjust the pH to 6.0, then the stirring was stopped, the product was discharged, and the essence was obtained.

[0109] Table 3

[0110]

[0111]

[0112] Example 1

[0113] The soothing repair composition obtained in Examples 1-15 and Comparative Examples 1-9 was tested for repair effect.

[0114] When the skin is damaged, for example, by ultraviolet radiation, the skin is damaged, but the skin itself quickly regenerates to repair the skin barrier. Zebrafish is highly similar to the skin repair process of humans during the wound repair process, and therefore, the zebrafish tail fin UVB damage model can be used to detect the skin repair efficacy of a product on human skin. The area of regeneration of the zebrafish tail fin is measured at the same time to determine the strength of the skin repair ability of the composition. The greater the area of regeneration of the tail fin, the stronger the repair ability, and vice versa.

[0115] The specific steps are as follows:

[0116] (4) Zebrafish species: wild type AB strain zebrafish (Danio rerio) eggs from a reliable source (such as the China National Zebrafish Resource Center) were used for testing;

[0117] Zebrafish embryo preparation: at 26℃, the fertilized fish embryo completes the first division in about 45 minutes, and then divides into 4, 8, 16 and 32 cells. At this time, the fertilized fish embryo is clearly distinguishable. Healthy fish embryos at 4-32 cell stages are selected for standby, and the exposure of the test substance needs to start within 4-128 cell stages.

[0118] (2) Test substance preparation: adjust the concentration of each soothing repair composition to 20 mg / L using 10% dimethyl sulfoxide, and mark it as sample solution; the tetracaine solution is 200 mg tetracaine dissolved in 48.95 mL water, and refrigerated;

[0119] (3) UVB irradiation fin step: the zebrafish is placed in a 6-well plate and irradiated with UVB for 30 s;

[0120] (4) Group setting: divided into model control group (UVB irradiation), blank control group (normal culture without irradiation) and test substance group (each example / contrast solution + UVB irradiation), 6 fish embryos are selected in each group and placed in a 28±1℃ constant temperature incubator for 24 h. The zebrafish is anesthetized with tetracaine, and then placed under a body microscope to take pictures of the tail of the fish embryo. The tail fin area of each fish embryo is calculated by Image J. The tail fin repair promotion rate is calculated in the following manner, and the results are shown in Table 4.

[0121] Promotion rate (%) = (test group fish tail fin area - model group fish tail fin area) / model group fish tail fin area x 100%.

[0122] Table 4

[0123]

[0124]

[0125] From the experimental data in Table 4, it can be seen that the soothing repair composition of the present application has a promotion rate of more than 47% on the tail fin area of zebrafish, indicating that the soothing repair composition of the present application has strong skin repair ability.

[0126] From Comparative Examples 1-5, when the soothing repair composition comprises the following components by weight: 4.5-12 parts of brain phospholipid, 1.5-3.5 parts of ceramide-EOP, 0.5-1 part of plant moulting hormone, 0.1-0.5 part of glycerophosphoinositol choline salt, and 85-93 parts of water, the soothing repair composition obtained has a promotion rate of more than 56% on the tail fin area of zebrafish, indicating that the soothing repair composition with the above component content has better skin repair ability.

[0127] Comparing Examples 1 and 6-9, it can be seen that surfactants can improve the promoting rate of the soothing and repairing composition on the caudal fin area of ​​zebrafish. When the content of surfactant is 0.5-2% of the total mass of the soothing and repairing composition, the promoting rate of the soothing and repairing composition on the caudal fin area of ​​zebrafish reaches more than 82%, indicating that when the content of surfactant is 0.5-2% of the total mass of the soothing and repairing composition, the skin repair ability of the soothing and repairing composition can be further improved.

[0128] Comparing Examples 7-8 and Examples 10-13, it can be seen that there is a synergistic effect between stearyl alcohol polyether and glycerol fatty acid ester, which effectively improves the promotion rate of the soothing and repairing composition on the caudal fin area of ​​zebrafish.

[0129] Comparative Examples 1 and 1-6 show that phospholipids, ceramide-EOP, glycerophosphate inositol choline salt, and phytoecdysone synergistically improve the soothing and repairing composition's effect on the area of ​​zebrafish tail fins.

[0130] Comparing Example 1 and Comparative Examples 7-9, it can be seen that when the homogenization parameters are not within the scope of the present invention or the components are directly mixed during the preparation of the soothing and repairing composition, the promotion rate of the soothing and repairing composition on the caudal fin area of ​​zebrafish is reduced.

[0131] Example 2

[0132] This effect example tested the stability of the soothing and repairing compositions obtained in Examples 1-15 and Comparative Examples 1-9.

[0133] The specific steps are as follows:

[0134] The particle size was determined using a Malvern particle size analyzer and expressed as average particle size. Except for Comparative Example 5, where the encapsulation efficiency was determined by the content of dihydrooat alkaloids, the encapsulation efficiency (ER) in all other examples and comparative examples was determined by the content of plant ecdysone. The specific steps are as follows: 50.0 mg of phosphatidylcholine-ceramide EOP liposomes was weighed, and the mass was recorded as m. t Add 20 mL of methanol, sonicate at 20 °C for 20 min, then centrifuge to obtain the supernatant at 8000 rpm. Adjust the supernatant to 25 mL, and quantitatively determine the mass of plant ecdysone / dihydroacid by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), denoted as m. o Then, the encapsulation efficiency is calculated according to the formula: Encapsulation efficiency (ER) = (m o -m s ) / m o ×100%, and record the calculated encapsulation rate in Table 5. Place the samples in constant temperature equipment at 50℃ and -8℃ for extreme environmental stability testing. On the 30th day, take them out to test the encapsulation rate and observe whether there are obvious abnormal changes in appearance such as discoloration, layering, precipitation, or exudation.

[0135] The results are shown in Table 5.

[0136] Table 5

[0137]

[0138]

[0139] From the experimental data in Table 5, it can be seen that the soothing repair composition of the present application is a liposome with core-shell structure, the average particle size of the liposome is 100-250 mm, the encapsulation rate reaches more than 49%, after standing at a temperature of-8℃ for one month, the encapsulation rate of the liposome reaches more than 46%, after standing at a temperature of 50℃ for one month, the encapsulation rate of the liposome reaches more than 40%, which shows that the soothing repair composition has high stability.

[0140] From Comparative Examples 1-5, it can be seen that when the soothing repair composition comprises the following components by weight: cephalin 4.5-12 parts, ceramide-EOP 1.5-3.5 parts, plant moulting hormone 0.5-1 part, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt 0.1-0.5 part, and water 85-93 parts, the encapsulation rate of the obtained liposome reaches more than 64%, after standing at a temperature of-8℃ for one month, the encapsulation rate of the liposome reaches more than 52%, after standing at a temperature of 50℃ for one month, the encapsulation rate of the liposome reaches more than 46%, which shows that the soothing repair composition with the above component content has high stability.

[0141] From Comparative Example 1 and Examples 6-9, it can be seen that the surfactant can improve the stability of the soothing repair composition, when the content of the surfactant is 0.5-2% of the total mass of the soothing repair composition, the encapsulation rate of the obtained liposome reaches more than 80%, after standing at a temperature of-8℃ for one month, the encapsulation rate of the liposome reaches more than 69%, after standing at a temperature of 50℃ for one month, the encapsulation rate of the liposome reaches more than 53%, which shows that when the content of the surfactant is 0.5-2% of the total mass of the soothing repair composition, the stability of the soothing repair composition can be further improved.

[0142] From Comparative Examples 7-8 and Examples 10-13, it can be seen that there is a synergistic effect between the stearyl polyether and the glycerol fatty acid ester, which effectively improves the stability of the soothing repair composition.

[0143] As can be seen from Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-6, the absence of either one of cephalin and ceramide-EOP cannot form liposomes, the absence of either one of glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and plant moulting hormone, the solubility of plant moulting hormone in water is worse than that of glycerophosphoinositol choline salt, and the plant moulting hormone cannot be completely dissolved when the water-soluble active ingredient is only plant moulting hormone, so liposomes cannot be formed; the soothing and repairing composition containing only glycerophosphoinositol choline salt as the water-soluble active ingredient can form liposomes, but the encapsulation rate of the soothing and repairing composition is significantly reduced due to the absence of the interaction of plant moulting hormone.

[0144] As can be seen from Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Examples 7-9, the homogenization parameters are not within the scope of the present application or the components are directly mixed during the preparation of the soothing and repairing composition, so liposomes cannot be formed.

[0145] Effect Example 3 Human efficacy test

[0146] This effect example tests the soothing, repairing and moisturizing effects of the serum of Application Examples 1-15, Comparative Application Examples 1-9 and the blank application example on dry sensitive skin.

[0147] The specific steps are as follows:

[0148] 100 dry sensitive skin volunteers with skin barrier damage problems (TEWL≥20 g / hm 2 ) were recruited, the test area (face) of the volunteers could not be applied with any product on the day of visit, after washing the face, the volunteers sat in an air-conditioned room with a temperature of 21±1℃ and a humidity of 50±10% for 20 minutes, and then were randomly divided into 25 groups, 4 people in each group. The initial TEWL value and moisture content (MMV value) of the left and right faces of each volunteer were measured by using a skin transdermal water loss probe TM Hex (Courage + Khazaka) and a moisture measurement probe Corneometer, and the average values were taken. One side of the nose of the volunteers was randomly selected and a 10% lactic acid solution patch was applied for 5 minutes, and the pain sensation was scored, using a 4-point scale, i.e. 0 points for no sensation; 1 point for slight pain; 2 points for obvious pain; and 3 points for severe pain. The same amount of serum was applied to the face of each volunteer in the morning and evening, the first group of volunteers used the blank application example (serum without soothing and repairing composition), the second group of volunteers used Application Example 1, and the rest were sequentially applied. Then on the 28th day, the post-use TEWL value, post-use MMV value and lactic acid stinging score of the facial skin were measured again, and the average values were taken, and the respective improvement rates (%) were calculated according to the following formula using the corresponding average values:

[0149] TEWL value improvement rate (%) = (initial TEWL value - post-use TEWL value) / initial TEWL value x 100%;

[0150] MMV value improvement rate (%) = (MMV value after use - initial MMV value) / initial MMV value x 100%;

[0151] Lactic acid stinging score improvement rate (%) = (lactic acid stinging score before use - lactic acid stinging score after use) / lactic acid stinging score before use x 100%;

[0152] Wherein, the greater the TEWL value improvement rate, the stronger the skin barrier damage repair ability of the serum; the greater the MMV value improvement rate, the stronger the moisturizing and hydrating ability of the serum; the greater the lactic acid stinging score improvement rate, the stronger the soothing of the serum to skin irritation and the stronger the skin tolerance; the results are shown in Table 6.

[0153] Table 6

[0154]

[0155]

[0156] From the experimental data in Table 6, it can be seen that the TEWL improvement rate of the serum containing the soothing repair composition of the present application is more than 17%, the MMV value improvement rate is more than 35%, and the lactic acid stinging score improvement rate is more than 54%. It shows that the soothing repair composition of the present application has good moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects on dry sensitive skin.

[0157] From Comparative Examples 1-5, it can be seen that when the soothing repair composition comprises the following components by weight: cephalin 4.5-12 parts, ceramide-EOP 1.5-3.5 parts, plant moulting hormone 0.5-1 part, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt 0.1-0.5 part, and water 85-93 parts, the TEWL improvement rate of the obtained serum is more than 21%, the MMV value improvement rate is more than 44%, and the lactic acid stinging score improvement rate is more than 60%, which shows that the soothing repair composition with the above component content has better moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects.

[0158] From Comparative Example 1 and Examples 6-9, it can be seen that the surfactant can improve the moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects of the soothing repair composition. When the content of the surfactant is 0.5-2% of the total mass of the soothing repair composition, the TEWL improvement rate of the obtained serum is more than 25%, the MMV value improvement rate is more than 54%, and the lactic acid stinging score improvement rate is more than 67%, which shows that when the content of the surfactant is 0.5-2% of the total mass of the soothing repair composition, the moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects of the soothing repair composition can be further improved.

[0159] From Comparative Example 7-8 and Example 10-13, it can be seen that there is a synergistic effect between stearyl alcohol polyether and glycerol fatty acid ester, which effectively improves the moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects of the soothing and repairing composition.

[0160] From Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-6, it can be seen that there is a synergistic effect among brain phospholipid, ceramide-EOP, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and plant moulting hormone, which improves the moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects of the soothing and repairing composition.

[0161] From Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Examples 7-9, it can be seen that during the preparation of the soothing and repairing composition, the homogenization parameters are not within the scope of the present application or the components are directly mixed, and the moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects of the soothing and repairing composition are reduced.

[0162] From Comparative Examples 1-9 and the blank application example, it can be seen that compared with the blank application example, the soothing composition which cannot form liposomes has no improvement or insignificant improvement in moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects; compared with the soothing composition with liposome structure, the soothing composition which cannot form liposomes has poor moisturizing, repairing and soothing effects.

[0163] Finally, it should be noted that the above examples are used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present disclosure and are not a limitation on the protection scope of the present disclosure. Although the present disclosure has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the technical solutions of the present disclosure can be modified or replaced with the same, without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solutions of the present disclosure.

Claims

1. A soothing repair composition for dry sensitive skin, characterized in that, The soothing repair composition comprises the following components by weight parts, taking 100 parts of the soothing repair composition as the base: 4.5-12 parts of cephalin, 1.5-3.5 parts of ceramide-EOP, 0.1-0.5 parts of plant moulting hormone, 0.5-1 parts of glycerophosphoinositol choline salt, and the balance of water; the soothing repair composition is a liposome with a core-shell structure, wherein the cephalin and ceramide-EOP are the shell layer of the liposome, and the plant moulting hormone, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and water are the core layer of the liposome; The preparation method of the soothing repair composition for dry sensitive skin comprises the following steps: The cephalin and ceramide-EOP are added into ethanol, uniformly mixed, and then the ethanol is removed to obtain a lipid film; The plant moulting hormone, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and water are uniformly mixed to obtain an aqueous solution, the aqueous solution is added into the lipid film, uniformly stirred and heated, and then homogenized under the conditions of a pressure of 500-800 bar and a rotation speed of 1000-2000 rpm for 3-5 min, so that the obtained product is filtered to remove un-wrapped components to obtain the soothing repair composition.

2. The soothing repair composition of Claim 1 wherein The soothing repair composition further comprises a surfactant, and the mass of the surfactant accounts for 0.5-2% of the total weight of the soothing repair composition; the surfactant is a mixture of steareth and glyceryl fatty acid ester.

3. A method of preparing a soothing repair composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The preparation method of the soothing repair composition for dry sensitive skin comprises the following steps: The cephalin and ceramide-EOP are added into ethanol, uniformly mixed, and then the ethanol is removed to obtain a lipid film; The plant moulting hormone, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt and water are uniformly mixed to obtain an aqueous solution, the aqueous solution is added into the lipid film, uniformly stirred and heated, and then homogenized under the conditions of a pressure of 500-800 bar and a rotation speed of 1000-2000 rpm for 3-5 min, so that the obtained product is filtered to remove un-wrapped components to obtain the soothing repair composition.

4. The method of making a soothing repair composition according to claim 3, wherein, The temperature of the heating and stirring is 40-60°C.

5. The method of making a soothing repair composition according to claim 3, wherein, The lipid film further comprises a surfactant, and the mass of the surfactant accounts for 0.5-2% of the total weight of the soothing repair composition; the surfactant is a mixture of steareth and glyceryl fatty acid ester.

6. Use of the soothing repair composition according to any one of claims 1-2 in the preparation of a cosmetic product.

7. A cosmetic product, characterized by The cosmetic product comprises the soothing repair composition according to any one of claims 1-2, and the mass percentage of the soothing repair composition in the cosmetic product is 1-5%.

8. The cosmetic product according to claim 7, wherein The cosmetic product is a serum, and the serum comprises the following components by mass percentage: 1-5% of the soothing repair composition, 0.05-0.3% of a thickening agent, 0.5-1% of a humectant, 0.5-5% of an emulsifier, 0.5-3% of a preservative, 0.01-0.3% of a pH regulator, and the balance of water.

9. The cosmetic product according to claim 8, wherein The thickening agent comprises at least one of xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, arabinogalactan, and cetyl alcohol. And / or, the humectant includes at least one of allantoin, sodium polyacrylate, hydrogenated lecithin, betaine, beta-glucan, trehalose, glycofurol, dipropylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, 1,2-butanediol, glycerin, pullulan, ceramide, D-panthenol; And / or, the pH adjuster includes at least one of arginine, tromethamine, disodium EDTA; And / or, the emulsifier includes at least one of caprylic capric triglyceride, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetyl stearyl glucoside, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraester, dimethicone, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, pentaerythrityl distearate, sucrose stearate, glycerin tri(ethylhexanoate) ester; And / or, the preservative includes at least one of 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-pentanediol.

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