Care and / or cosmetic composition comprising one or more pigments

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably an anhydrous cosmetic composition, for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a silicone-polyurethane polymer; the invention relates to a composition comprising: a) one or more pigments advantageously treated to be lipophilic, and c) a (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris (trimethylsiloxy) silyl-(C1-C4) alkyl polydimethylsiloxane silicone surfactant wherein n ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 8 to 12, the (C8-C20) alkyl chain is a saturated linear or branched (preferably linear) hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, and the C8-C20 alkyl chain is a linear or branched (preferably linear) hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. And the (C1-C4) alkyl chain is a saturated linear or branched (preferably linear) hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms (preferably 2 carbon atoms).

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics and in particular to cosmetic compositions for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips. Background Art

[0002] Skin and / or lip care and / or make-up products intended to beautify and / or color the skin and / or lips are ubiquitous. Products in liquid, semi-fluid or solid form are particularly known. For properties in terms of persistence (non-transfer) and comfort during application, film-forming polymers, volatile oils, gelling agents or fatty phase structurants and fillers are usually used to improve the texture and / or organoleptic properties of the deposit. However, the use of pigments in skin care or make-up compositions, in combination with other ingredients (particularly film-forming polymers), can lead to color inhomogeneities in the composition, such as color flow or marbling in the composition.

[0003] The applicant has particularly noted that compositions comprising silicone-polyurethane polymers and pigments may exhibit color inhomogeneities, such as color flow and / or marbling, particularly on stick compositions. Thus, there is a need to improve the homogeneity of said compositions and it has been demonstrated that the use of (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyl polydimethylsiloxane silicone surfactants as defined according to the present invention can meet this need. Summary of the invention

[0004] A first aspect of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0005] a) silicone-polyurethane polymers,

[0006] b) one or more pigments, advantageously treated to be lipophilic, and

[0007] c) (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyl polydimethylsiloxane silicone surfactant,

[0008] in

[0009] n ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 8 to 12,

[0010] (C8-C20) alkyl chain is a saturated linear or branched (preferably linear) hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 20 carbon atoms (preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms), and

[0011] The (C1-C4)alkyl chain is a saturated linear or branched (preferably linear) hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms (preferably 2 carbon atoms).

[0012] Preferably, the composition comprises at least non-white coloured pigments (eg iron oxides) and optionally further white pigments as pigments.

[0013] In addition, the composition of the present invention is preferably an anhydrous composition, more preferably an anhydrous solid composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials (especially skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably lips), the method comprising applying a composition as defined in the present invention to the keratin material. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0014] The invention therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0015] a) silicone-polyurethane polymers,

[0016] b) one or more pigments, advantageously treated to be lipophilic, and

[0017] c) (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyl polydimethylsiloxane silicone surfactant,

[0018] in

[0019] n ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 8 to 12,

[0020] (C8-C20) alkyl chain is a saturated linear or branched (preferably linear) hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 20 carbon atoms (preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms), and

[0021] The (C1-C4)alkyl chain is a saturated linear or branched (preferably linear) hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms (preferably 2 carbon atoms).

[0022] "Keratin material" means in particular the facial skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows and the lips. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is applied to the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips. Preferably, it is applied to the lips.

[0023] "Pigment", as defined below, means white or colored mineral or organic particles insoluble in aqueous solution, which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Advantageously, in the context of the present invention, the composition comprises at least a (non-white) colored pigment and optionally an additional white pigment.

[0024] According to a first embodiment, the composition is a fluid or liquid composition, ie a composition that flows under its own weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0025] According to another particular and preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is not a fluid or liquid composition. Therefore, the composition of the present invention is preferably a pasty composition or a solid composition.

[0026] The rheological properties of the pasty or solid composition according to the invention can be characterized by viscosity / elasticity measurements of the final product at 25°C.

[0027] For example, the viscoelastic parameters of the paste or solid composition of the present invention are measured using a DHR2 rheometer from TA Instruments at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0028] For the "solid or pasty composition" of the invention, the product pellets were cut and deposited between two smooth metal planes with a diameter of 20 mm and an air gap of 1 mm. The storage modulus or elastic modulus G' (expressed in Pascals (Pa)) and the delta phase angle (in degrees (°)) were recorded as the stress increased in the range of 0.1 Pa to 10000 Pa. The retained values ​​were extracted from the linear domain where the modulus was constant (i.e., deformation was less than 100 Pa).

[0029] Products with a storage modulus G' greater than 5000 Pa and a delta phase angle less than 30° are considered solid or pasty. Therefore, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the solid or pasty composition of the invention is characterized in that the storage modulus G' measured according to the above scheme is greater than 5000 Pa and its delta phase angle is less than 30°.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the composition has a storage modulus G′ greater than 20,000 Pa or even greater than 50,000 Pa and a delta phase angle less than 25°.

[0031] According to another particular embodiment, the composition has a storage modulus G′ greater than 100,000 Pa or even greater than 500,000 Pa and a delta phase angle less than 20°.

[0032] According to another embodiment, the solid composition of the invention may be characterized by its hardness. The hardness may be measured at 20°C by a method known as the "butter cutting wire" method, which consists in transversely cutting a product stick (which is preferably a rotating cylinder) using a rigid metal wire with a diameter of 250 μm moving at a speed of 60 mm / min relative to the stick. The hardness of the sample is expressed in grams-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture meter of the TAXT Plus texture meter type. Preferably, the value obtained must be between 140 and 190.

[0033] According to a first embodiment, the solid composition of the invention is in the form of a stick.

[0034] According to another embodiment, the solid or pasty composition of the present invention is packaged in a bottle or a jar.

[0035] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0036] "Anhydrous" means in particular that water is preferably not added to the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, or is even completely free of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is an anhydrous solid.

[0038] oil phase

[0039] The oil phase of the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably hydrocarbon oils.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, C 10 -C 40 Synthetic ether, C 10 -C 40 Synthetic ester, C 12 -C 26 Fatty alcohol, C 12 -C 22 Higher fatty acids and their mixtures.

[0041] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes.

[0042] As linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, mention may in particular be made of:

[0043] - C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, hemi-squalane, and the hydrocarbons sold under the trade names or Oil for sale;

[0044] - linear alkanes having the following hydrocarbon chains respectively,

[0045] - C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Ultimate Sales;

[0046] -C15-C19, as marketed by Seppic under the name Those sold by L15,

[0047] -C9-C12, C12-C14, C16-C18, as named by BIOSYNTHIS SILK (INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE), 1214LC, Those sold by 1618LC,

[0048] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), in particular those produced by Sasol under the reference numbers 12-97 and 14-97 sold,

[0049] - and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Therefore, according to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, selected from branched alkanes (such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, semisqualane); linear C8-C19 alkanes (such as nonane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-nonadecane) and mixtures thereof, in particular isododecane and mixtures of linear C9 / C12, C11 / C13, C10 / C12, C10 / C14 or C15 / C19 alkanes.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least isododecane as branched C8-C19 alkane.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes in the composition of the invention is at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it ranges from 40% to 80% by weight, in particular from 45% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0054] The composition of the present invention comprises a silicone-polyurethane polymer.

[0055] "Silicone-polyurethane polymer" according to the present invention means any polymer comprising organosiloxane units and urethane bonds.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention is the reaction product of a hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganosiloxane, which preferably comprises at least two hydroxyl groups, and a diisocyanate compound.

[0057] This hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganosiloxane corresponds to formula (I)

[0058] [Chemical formula 1]

[0059]

[0060] wherein R is independently selected at each occurrence from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group and an optionally substituted hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl group; preferably, R is selected from an optionally substituted linear, cyclic or branched C1-C6 alkyl or alkenyl group, including but not limited to methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, vinyl, allyl or a C1-C8 aryl, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl group, including but not limited to phenyl, benzyl, tolyl, methylbenzyl;

[0061] Wherein, each of the above R groups may be optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, including oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus and halogen (especially fluorine), as shown in the following groups: fluoroalkyl (perfluoroalkyl), such as monofluoromethyl, difluoromethyl and trifluoromethyl; perfluorophenyl; and C1-C6 substituted alkylamino, including -(CH2) 1-6 -NR N 2 and -(CH2) 1-6 -NR N -(CH2) 1-6 -NR N 2 of those, where R N Typically hydrogen, but may also be methyl, ethyl, propyl, etc.; polyether groups, including but not limited to corresponding to the formula -(CH2CH2O) n -polyethylene oxide group, corresponding to the formula -(CH(CH3)CH2O) n -propylene oxide groups and combinations thereof; and amine, phosphate, hydroxyl, ester and / or carboxylate oxide functional groups, etc.; or

[0062] Wherein, R may include an additional -L-OH group;

[0063] Wherein, L represents a bond or a linking group; preferably, L is a linking group selected from a divalent hydrocarbon having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, including a divalent alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or aryl-alkyl, such as, for example, a C1-C10 alkyl, including, but not limited to, a -(CH2) 1-10 -, preferably -(CH2)1-6 - a divalent group, more preferably, L is -CH2CH2CH2-;

[0064] Wherein, n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0065] Preferably, R represents a methyl group in at least one or more occurrences, more preferably, R represents a methyl group in all or substantially all occurrences, which means that R represents a methyl group in more than 90% of the occurrences, in particular in more than 95% of the occurrences or even in more than 98% of the occurrences. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganosiloxanes include, for example, polymethylsiloxanes of the structure corresponding to formula Ia:

[0066] [Chemical formula 2]

[0067]

[0068] wherein L and n are as defined above.

[0069] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganosiloxane comprises, for example, a polymethylsiloxane having a structure corresponding to formula Ib:

[0070] [Chemical formula 3]

[0071]

[0072] Wherein, n is as defined above.

[0073] The diisocyanate may correspond in particular to the formula O=C=NR 1 -N=C=O, where R 1 is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms and optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, in particular R 1 may be selected from optionally substituted cyclic alkyl, linear, cyclic or branched alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or arylalkyl, including but not limited to:

[0074] i. A group of the formula:

[0075] [Chemical formula 4]

[0076]

[0077] ii. a group of the formula:

[0078] [Chemical formula 5]

[0079]

[0080] iii. a group of the formula:

[0081] [Chemical formula 6]

[0082]

[0083] iv. a group of the formula:

[0084] [Chemical formula 7]

[0085]

[0086] v. A group of the formula:

[0087] [Chemical formula 8]

[0088]

[0089] and their combinations.

[0090] Suitable diisocyanates for use in the context of the present invention include, but are not limited to: toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.

[0091] In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is selected from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

[0092] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0093] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0094] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, which embodiment is particularly preferred.

[0095] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product of a hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganopolysiloxane and a diisocyanate compound,

[0096] The hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganopolysiloxane corresponds in particular to the structure of formula (I)

[0097] [Chemical formula 9]

[0098]

[0099] wherein n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0100] The diisocyanate compound is particularly selected from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate and combinations thereof.

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymers according to the invention comprise repeating units derived from hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganosiloxanes and diisocyanates in the form of alternating copolymers AB, in which the units A have the structure of formula II:

[0102] [Chemical formula 10]

[0103]

[0104] wherein R, L and n are as defined above with respect to Formulas I, Ia, Ib and Ie, and unit B has the structure of Formula III:

[0105] [Chemical formula 11]

[0106]

[0107] wherein R1 is as defined above, and units A and B are arranged in a linear, branched or cyclic (preferably linear) configuration.

[0108] The polymer may also contain branching or grafting points in the polyorganosiloxane, wherein one or more R groups in Formula I or Formula II are groups IV, such as:

[0109] [Chemical formula 12]

[0110]

[0111] wherein R is as defined for formula I, R* may represent a -LO group further connected to the side chain of unit B of formula III, which in turn may be further connected to unit A of formula II, and so on; or, R* may represent -L-OH, an R group as defined above, or a terminal group.

[0112] When the polyorganosiloxane has such branching or grafting points, they may exist as T-type or Q-type grafts, where T means that only one R group on the Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain (as shown above), and Q means that both R groups are polyorganosiloxanes.

[0113] These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are referred to as copolymers of silicone-urethane polymers and branched or grafted resins T or resins Q.

[0114] Silicone-polyurethane polymers can also be prepared from functionalized isocyanate prepolymers. For example, the isocyanate prepolymer can be a difunctional or multifunctional polyorganosiloxane isocyanate, such as a polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate represented by the following formula V:

[0115] [Chemical formula 3]

[0116]

[0117] Among them, R 1 and L are as defined above, and x is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0118] The prepolymer can also be made polyfunctional by introducing additional isocyanate groups with one or more R groups. The functionalized isocyanate prepolymer is reacted with a hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganosiloxane to obtain the compound of formula I or its polyfunctional analogue.

[0119] Prepolymers according to formula V typically have a molecular weight ranging from 4000 to about 15000 Daltons. Prepolymers according to formulas I, Ia and Ib typically have a molecular weight ranging from 250 to about 15000 Daltons.

[0120] In one embodiment of the present invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or substantially free of polyalkylene glycol, especially polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG) subunits.

[0121] By "substantially free" is meant that the polymer comprises less than about 1 wt%, preferably less than about 0.5 wt%, and more preferably less than about 0.1 wt% of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0122] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of Formula Ib and a diisocyanate selected from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

[0123] Such silicone-polyurethane polymers are available, for example, from the company Siltech in the form of premixes in isododecane under the commercial references SILMER UR 5050 or UR 100100 (45% polymer dry matter in isododecane).

[0124] According to another embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in hemi-squalane.

[0125] According to another embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a linear C9-C16 alkane or a mixture of linear C9-C16 alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOLULTIMATE).

[0126] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention is present in the composition of the invention in a content of active material (dry matter) ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, in particular from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Coloring Materials

[0128] The composition of the present invention further comprises a coloring material, preferably at least a pigment as described below.

[0129] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a coloring optical effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium. In particular, the coloring optical effect is associated with the (non-white) colored particles present in the composition.

[0130] The coloring material may be selected from organic or inorganic coloring materials, optical effect materials and mixtures thereof.

[0131] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material is a pigment, in particular chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments, pearlescent pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0132] "Pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles insoluble in aqueous solution, which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0133] Preferably, in view of the color flow or marbling problem to be solved by the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises at least a (non-white) colored pigment and additionally a white pigment.

[0134] Mention may be made of mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments (ie pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials), pearlescent pigments or pearlescent pigments (multilayer structure) and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Among the "mineral pigments", mention may be made, by way of example, of titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least a colored pigment, in particular an iron oxide, and advantageously additionally a white pigment, such as titanium dioxide. Preferably, titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and mixtures thereof are used.

[0136] Examples of "organic pigments" include the pigments D&C Red No. 19; D&C Red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D&C Red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D&C Red No. 36; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Red No. 30; D&C Red No. 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquer.

[0137] Among the “pearlescent pigments” or “pearlescent pigments”, mention may be made in particular of white pearlescent pigments, such as bismuth oxychloride, and of colored pearlescent pigments, such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with organic pigments of the abovementioned type, and pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Mention may be made of the commercial reference pearlescent pigments and Pearlescent pigments can also be based on silica, alumina, alumina hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicates (eg sodium calcium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate).

[0138] Pigments can be treated or untreated.

[0139] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment is treated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic surfactant.

[0140] In particular, there may be mentioned lipophilic agents selected from N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, silicone agents, metal soaps, lecithin and derivatives thereof, waxes, fatty esters and phospholipids.

[0141] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises mineral pigments treated with a lipophilic surfactant, in particular titanium dioxide and iron oxides treated with an N-acylated amino acid or a salt thereof.

[0142] In addition to the above-mentioned types of pigments, the composition of the present invention may further comprise a dye.

[0143] Mention may be made of "dyes" in particular Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3, Green 6, Orange 4, Red 4, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 33, Red 40. Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, Annatto.

[0144] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the total content of coloring materials in the composition, in particular the total content of pigments, ranges from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] Preferably, the content of non-white colored pigments ranges in particular from 1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] Silicone surfactant

[0147] "Silicone surfactant" or "silicone emulsifier" will be considered indistinguishable in this specification.

[0148] The composition of the present invention further comprises a (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyl polydimethylsiloxane silicone surfactant,

[0149] in

[0150] n ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 8 to 12,

[0151] (C8-C20) alkyl chain is a saturated linear or branched (preferably linear) hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 20 carbon atoms (preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms),

[0152] The (C1-C4)alkyl chain is a saturated linear or branched (preferably linear) hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms (preferably 2 carbon atoms).

[0153] For purposes of the present invention, "n" refers to the number of ethoxy units in the PEG chain.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment, the silicone surfactant used according to the invention is dodecyl PEG-10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone, such as is available from the company Dow Chemical under the name DOWSIL TM The kind sold by ES-5300.

[0155] In fact, the Applicant has demonstrated that the introduction of a (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyl polydimethylsiloxane silicone surfactant as defined above makes it possible to improve the compatibility of the silicone polyurethane polymer and the pigment in the composition according to the invention. Thus, the formulation is homogeneous and it no longer has any flow and / or marbling, which is not the case without this particular silicone surfactant.

[0156] The content of the (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyl polydimethylsiloxane silicone surfactant described above in the composition of the present invention is specifically in the range of 0.1% to 3% by weight, specifically in the range of 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] Additional Ingredients

[0158] The composition further advantageously comprises a fatty phase structurant, in particular chosen from waxes, creamy fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0159] Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition further comprises one or more waxes, in particular one or more waxes of plant origin, and optionally additionally one or more creamy fatty substances.

[0160] wax

[0161] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one wax, making it possible to stabilize or even solidify the system without affecting the long-lasting effect.

[0162] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, solid at 25°C and a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C, preferably greater than 60°C.

[0163] Mention may be made of natural waxes (sunflower wax, palm wax, beeswax), microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax, ozokerite wax and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Preferably, the fatty phase of the composition of the invention is composed of one or more waxes of vegetable origin, in particular selected from palm wax, sunflower wax and mixtures thereof. Other additional waxes may also be included, such as beeswax, rice wax, candelilla wax, soy wax, rapeseed wax, olive wax, cotton wax, Chinese insect wax, montan wax, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, shellac wax, behenate of hydrogenated castor oil fatty acids, C18-C36 fatty acid triglycerides or mixtures thereof.

[0165] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises palm wax, sunflower wax and beeswax.

[0166] The composition according to the invention may comprise waxes in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, in particular from 3% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes in a total content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, in particular from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] Paste-like fatty substance

[0169] The composition may further advantageously comprise one or more creamy fatty substances.

[0170] "Paste-like fatty substance" means a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising a liquid portion and a solid portion at a temperature of 25°C.

[0171] Examples of pasty fatty substances include, in particular, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof, esters of polyols and dimer diacids of fatty acids, or one of their esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, glycerol oligoesters, in particular diglycerides, margarines and mixtures thereof.

[0172] Advantageously, a creamy fatty substance of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, is used.

[0173] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one creamy fatty substance selected from jojoba esters. The total content of the creamy fatty substance may range from 0 to 15% by weight, particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, particularly from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of vegetable origin chosen from sunflower wax, palm wax and mixtures thereof, and advantageously also a pasty fatty substance chosen in particular from jojoba esters.

[0175] The particular composition of the invention comprises at least one wax of vegetable origin chosen from sunflower wax, palm wax and mixtures thereof, advantageously also beeswax and a pasty fatty substance chosen in particular from jojoba esters.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition further comprises another additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of lipophilic gelling agents, fillers and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Lipophilic gelling agent

[0178] "Lipophilic gelling agent" according to the invention means a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the composition.

[0179] Mention may be made in particular of mineral gelling agents such as bentonite dispersed in oil. Mention may be made, for example, of the reference BENTONE GEL ISD V from Elementis, whose INCI name is Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate.

[0180] Therefore, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent (such as bentonite), preferably a quaternary hectorite.

[0181] The total content of lipophilic gelling agent may range from 0 to 5% by weight, particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, particularly from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] filler

[0183] Fillers are particularly used to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a matte effect.

[0184] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" means colorless or white particles of any shape, mineral or organic and of natural or synthetic nature, which are in the form of (platelets, spherical or ellipsoidal), insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. The filler is chosen in particular from mica, kaolin, titanium oxides of natural or synthetic origin; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate; zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders such as polyethylene, polyester, polyamide (such as nylon); polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid powder, silicone powder; cellulose powder; glass beads and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin, such as crosslinked or non-crosslinked corn flour, wheat flour, rice flour and cotton flour, and mixtures thereof.

[0185] The filler may or may not be surface treated, in particular with a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent.

[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the filler is not surface treated.

[0187] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the filler is surface treated, in particular with a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent. Lipophilic agents that may be mentioned in particular are chosen from N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, silicone agents, metal soaps, lecithins and derivatives thereof, waxes, fatty esters and phospholipids. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one silicon dioxide powder, preferably a silicon dioxide powder surface treated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent.

[0188] Preferably, the silicon dioxide powder is treated with lauroyl lysine. In particular, mention may be made of the commercial reference No. IKEDA from the company

[0189] According to a particular embodiment, the composition advantageously comprises silica powder treated with lauroyl lysine and untreated silica powder.

[0190] According to a particular embodiment, the silica powder (especially hydrophobically treated silica powder) is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, especially from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of filler or fillers in the composition ranges in particular from 2% to 10% by weight, in particular from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] Therefore, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises:

[0193] - one or more hydrocarbon oils, in particular isododecane and linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0194] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer resulting from the reaction of (i) a hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganopolysiloxane corresponding to the structure of formula (I) with (ii) a diisocyanate compound

[0195] [Chemical formula 9]

[0196]

[0197] wherein n is an integer between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50, and the diisocyanate compound is particularly selected from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof,

[0198] - lipophilically treated pigments, in particular lipophilically treated iron oxides,

[0199] - a (C8-C20)alkyl PEG-n tri(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4)alkyl dimethicone silicone surfactant as defined above, preferably dodecyl PEG-10 tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone,

[0200] - at least one wax, preferably of vegetable origin, in particular chosen from sunflower wax, palm wax and mixtures thereof,

[0201] - at least one pasty fatty substance, in particular jojoba esters,

[0202] - optionally in addition at least one lipophilic gelling agent, in particular bentonite, and

[0203] At least one filler, in particular silicon dioxide, is advantageously treated to be lipophilic.

[0204] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least a non-white coloured pigment (eg iron oxide) and optionally an additional white pigment (eg titanium dioxide).

[0205] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition is an anhydrous solid composition as described above.

[0206] Phytochemicals

[0207] The composition according to the invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular for the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, preferably the eyelids, the eyebrows and the lips.

[0208] It can be a fluid or liquid composition, or a solid or pasty composition.

[0209] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is fluid or liquid. It may in particular be a liquid or fluid foundation.

[0210] Preferably, it is a solid or pasty composition. It may in particular be a stick, pen or a composition packaged in a bottle or jar.

[0211] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is a "top coat" composition that can be used over any lip makeup composition to provide a long-lasting matte effect (no transfer).

[0212] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a one-step makeup composition to provide color, matte finish and long-lastingness (non-transfer).

[0213] In particular, it is a lipstick or a bottled or jar-packaged composition for lips.

[0214] In another particular embodiment, it is an eyeliner.

[0215] According to another particular embodiment, it is a composition in the form of a stick or a pen or in a bottle or a jar, applied to the eyebrows with the fingers or a brush (eg: eyebrow pencil).

[0216] In another embodiment, it is a stick or a bottle or jar composition that is applied to the eyelid with fingers, sponge or brush (eg: eye shadow).

[0217] In another embodiment, it is a stick or a bottle or jar composition that is applied to the facial skin, particularly certain areas (eg, skin tone modifier or concealer) with fingers, sponge or brush.

[0218] Thus, the composition of the invention is in particular in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a bottle or jar, an eyeliner, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or a concealer, preferably a lipstick.

[0219] Beauty Methods

[0220] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, which method comprises applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials (in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, preferably the lips).

[0221] The compositions of the present invention for application to the skin or lips are as described above.

[0222] The composition is preferably an anhydrous composition.

[0223] More preferably, it is a paste or a solid anhydrous composition as defined above.

[0224] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention to be applied to the skin or the lips, preferably the lips, comprises:

[0225] - one or more hydrocarbon oils, in particular isododecane and linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0226] - a silicone-polyurethane polymer resulting from the reaction of (i) a hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganopolysiloxane corresponding to the structure of formula (I) with (ii) a diisocyanate compound

[0227] [Chemical formula 9]

[0228]

[0229] Wherein, n is an integer between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and still more preferably between 10 and 50, and the diisocyanate compound is particularly selected from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate and a combination thereof.

[0230] - lipophilically treated pigments, in particular lipophilically treated iron oxides,

[0231] - a (C8-C20)alkyl PEG-n tri(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4)alkyl dimethicone silicone surfactant as defined above, preferably dodecyl PEG-10 tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone,

[0232] - at least one wax, preferably of vegetable origin, in particular chosen from sunflower wax, palm wax and mixtures thereof,

[0233] - at least one pasty fatty substance, in particular jojoba esters,

[0234] - optionally in addition at least one lipophilic gelling agent, in particular bentonite, and

[0235] At least one filler, in particular silicon dioxide, is advantageously treated to be lipophilic.

[0236] Preferably, the composition comprises at least a coloured (non-white) pigment, in particular an iron oxide, and optionally an additional white pigment as the lipophilically treated pigment.

[0237] The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, % are expressed as % by weight of the ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] Example

[0239] Example: Study on the uniformity of the composition

[0240] [Table 1]

[0241]

[0242] The compositions were prepared according to the following procedure:

[0243] - Weigh the wax and jojoba esters and heat at 91°C rayneri;

[0244] - When everything is homogeneous, add the alkane, silicone surfactant and pigment and stir for 15 minutes;

[0245] - Then disperse the filler and stir for 10 minutes under rayneri;

[0246] - Pass the composition through an Ultra-turrax until the pigments and fillers are completely homogenized;

[0247] - The composition is again placed under a rayneri of 91°C in order to add Silmer UR-5050 and stir for 15 minutes;

[0248] - the composition is then supplemented with volatile linear alkanes;

[0249] - Pour the composition into the packaging while it is still hot.

[0250] The uniformity of the composition was observed visually on both the bulk (before pouring) and the poured rods.

[0251] The results are shown in the following table:

[0252] [Table 2]

[0253]

[0254] These results show that the presence of the (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyl dimethicone silicone surfactant defined in the present invention allows a homogeneous composition to be obtained without flow or marbling, compared to a control composition (without surfactant) and a composition with another silicone surfactant (hexadecyl dimethicone).

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) silicone-polyurethane polymers, b) one or more pigments, advantageously treated to be lipophilic, and c) (C8-C20) alkyl PEG-n tris(trimethylsiloxy)silyl-(C1-C4) alkyl polydimethylsiloxane silicone surfactant, in n ranges from 3 to 20, preferably from 8 to 12, (C8-C20) alkyl chain is a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, preferably a linear hydrocarbon chain, having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms, and The (C1-C4)alkyl chain is a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 2 carbon atoms, preferably a linear hydrocarbon chain.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The composition comprises at least a non-white coloured pigment, in particular an iron oxide.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that The composition is an anhydrous composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that The composition further comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, in particular selected from branched alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, hemi-squalane; linear C8-C19 alkanes such as nonane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-nonadecane, and mixtures thereof, in particular isododecane and mixtures of linear C9 / C12, C11 / C13, C10 / C12, C10 / C14 or C15 / C19 alkanes.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that The composition further comprises one or more waxes, in particular one or more waxes of vegetable origin, and optionally additionally one or more creamy fatty substances.

6. The composition according to claim 5, characterized in that The total content of the wax or waxes ranges from 5% to 25% by weight, in particular from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that Silicone-polyurethane polymers are the reaction products of hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganopolysiloxanes and diisocyanate compounds. The hydroxyl-functionalized polyorganopolysiloxane corresponds in particular to the structure of formula (I), wherein n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50, The diisocyanate compound is particularly selected from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate and combinations thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The silicone polyurethane polymer is present in the composition in a content ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, in particular from 8% to 15% by weight of active material (dry matter) relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that The silicone surfactant was dodecyl PEG-10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that The composition further comprises another additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of a lipophilic gelling agent, a filler and mixtures thereof.

11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a bottle or jar, in particular a lipstick, an eyeliner, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or a concealer, preferably a lipstick.

12. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, said method comprising applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11 to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, preferably the lips.

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