A three-dimensional grainy jean garment and method of making the same

By interweaving woven warp yarns with high twist coefficient and torsional stiffness with woven weft yarns, and combining them with steaming treatment and reverse weave structure, the low production efficiency and quality problems of traditional denim fabrics are solved, and denim clothing with three-dimensional granularity and texture effects is achieved.

CN119663510BActive Publication Date: 2025-10-10GUANGDONG FORWARD DENIM
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202411779590.2
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-12-05
Publication Date
2025-10-10
Estimated Expiration
2044-12-05

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Traditional denim fabrics are prone to weft yarn breakage during the weaving process, resulting in low production efficiency and difficulty in achieving three-dimensional grain and texture effects, increasing production costs and quality defects.

Method used

A combination of woven warp yarns and woven weft yarns is used. The yarn count of the woven warp yarns is 3 to 10 times that of the woven weft yarns. The twist coefficient and torsional stiffness of the first yarn are higher than those of the second yarn. After being steamed, they are interwoven and adopt a structure opposite to that of traditional denim fabrics. After finishing, they are cut horizontally to form three-dimensional granular denim clothing.

Benefits of technology

The weaving efficiency is improved, the fabric is not easy to crack, it has the texture and distressed effect of traditional denim fabric, feels soft and not stiff, solves the problem of weft yarn breakage, and reduces production costs.

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Abstract

The application discloses a three-dimensional particle-sensing jean garment and a manufacturing method thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles. Raw materials adopt warp yarn and weft yarn, both of which are cotton yarn. The warp yarn includes first yarn and second yarn with different twist factors and torsional stiffness. Before weaving, the first yarn is subjected to yarn steaming treatment when being wound on a bobbin, and the weft yarn is subjected to steam treatment in a stretched state, and then is dyed. After weaving according to three-under-one-over, the cloth is subjected to horizontal cutting after finishing and finishing, the warp yarn is used as the weft yarn, and the weft yarn is used as the warp yarn. The original weft-knitted point is changed into a warp-knitted point capable of well covering the weft yarn, the texture of traditional jean fabric can be made, the thick weft yarn is interwoven with the thin warp yarn, the weft yarn is not prone to breaking during weaving, the weaving efficiency is high, the obtained fabric is not prone to slitting and is not stiff, and has a particle-sensing effect. After washing, the fabric has a worn-out effect like traditional jean fabric.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to three-dimensional granular denim clothing and a manufacturing method thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles. Background Art

[0002] Denim, made by weaving indigo-dyed warp yarns with natural white weft yarns, has long been a staple in fashion, thanks to its rugged, durable qualities, contributing to the enduring "denim" culture. With economic development and social progress, consumers are demanding a wider range of fabric styles and textures, necessitating continuous improvement to meet market demand.

[0003] Traditional denim fabrics are typically woven from yarns of the same count or yarns with similar count differences, resulting in a flat surface and a lack of three-dimensional texture. To create a grainy, three-dimensional texture, warp and weft yarns with significantly different counts are typically used.

[0004] Interweaving fine warp yarns with coarse weft yarns will make it difficult to create quality denim fabric. Denim warp yarns must be sized and dyed, and woven using a three-up, one-down twill weave to create more warp points on the front of the fabric. After garment production, the fabric must be washed to achieve the unique distressed effect of denim on the front. If 40S-80S warp yarns are interwoven with 6S-10S weft yarns, the warp points on the front of the fabric won't properly cover the weft yarns, making it difficult to achieve the texture and distressed effect of denim fabric, and the fabric will be prone to cracking.

[0005] Interweaving coarse warp yarns with fine weft yarns creates a grainy fabric, but this results in low production efficiency and numerous defects. For example, when weaving 6S-10S warp yarns with 40S-80S weft yarns, due to the high weft count, weft yarn breaks easily when weaving on a rapier loom. This requires stopping the machine to extract the broken yarn and then reinserting the weft yarn, which is time-consuming and results in low weaving efficiency, only around 60%, and the resulting fabric is short. Furthermore, a single worker in a weaving workshop typically manages six to eight looms. When weaving grainy fabrics with coarse warp yarns and fine weft yarns, the severe breakage makes it impossible for a single worker to manage all six or eight machines, with one worker managing a maximum of three. This further reduces production efficiency and increases costs. Furthermore, weft yarn breakage causes machine downtime, which can easily lead to horizontal defects on the fabric, severely reducing fabric quality. This significantly increases costs and can also lead to fabric quality defects. Summary of the Invention

[0006] In order to overcome the deficiencies of the prior art, the present invention provides a three-dimensional grainy denim garment and a method for producing the same, which can produce three-dimensional grainy denim garments with a unique texture of denim fabric while maintaining a high weaving efficiency.

[0007] The technical scheme adopted by the present application to solve its technical problems is:

[0008] In a first aspect, the present application provides a three-dimensional granular feeling jeans garment manufacturing method, the raw materials are both cotton yarns, the warp yarn and the weft yarn, the yarn count of the warp yarn is 3 to 10 times that of the weft yarn, the warp yarn includes a first yarn and a second yarn, the twist factor of the first yarn is 20% to 30% higher than that of the second yarn, and the torsional stiffness of the first yarn is 15% to 20% higher than that of the second yarn.

[0009] Before weaving, the first yarn is subjected to yarn steaming treatment when being wound on a bobbin, and the weft yarn is subjected to steam treatment in a stretched state and then dyed;

[0010] During weaving, the first yarn and the second yarn are arranged side by side in a ratio of 2:3, and the warp yarn and the weft yarn are interwoven in a three-under-one-over manner;

[0011] After weaving, the fabric is subjected to finishing, and then is cut in the transverse direction, so that the warp yarn is used as the weft yarn and the weft yarn is used as the warp yarn, and the three-dimensional granular feeling jeans garment is obtained by sewing.

[0012] The three-dimensional granular feeling jeans garment manufacturing method provided by the present application uses thick weft yarns and thin warp yarns to interweave, the weft yarns are not easy to break during weaving, which is beneficial to improve the weaving efficiency; two kinds of yarns with different twist factors are used in the warp yarn, the first yarn with high twist factor and high torsional stiffness is responsible for providing strength, and the second yarn with low twist factor and low torsional stiffness is responsible for providing soft touch and toughness and drape, the mixing of the two kinds of yarns is beneficial to make the fabric not easy to tear, and the fabric has excellent hand feeling and is not stiff; in the method, the first yarn is subjected to yarn steaming treatment, which is beneficial to relax the bending degree of the fibers in the yarn, eliminate the unbalanced internal stress between the fibers in the yarn, and make the fibers in the yarn reach a relatively stable state, so that the strength of the first yarn is further improved, and the weft yarn is subjected to steam treatment in a stretched state, which can make the yarn structure relatively stable, and thus the tear resistance of the fabric is also optimized; the weft yarn is dyed, and the warp yarn is not dyed, and the fabric is cut in the transverse direction after finishing, the warp yarn during weaving is used as the weft yarn during application, and the weft yarn during weaving is used as the warp yarn during application, which can exactly make the texture of the traditional jeans fabric and has a granular feeling, and can have a worn-out effect like the traditional jeans fabric after washing.

[0013] Further, the yarn steaming treatment is twice circulation yarn steaming, and the first yarn is covered with cotton cloth;

[0014] The operation of each cycle includes: vacuuming the yarn steamer, heating to 90℃, keeping warm for 8 minutes and then releasing the pressure, vacuuming again, heating to 120℃, keeping warm for 65 minutes and then releasing the pressure, continuing vacuuming, and finally returning to normal pressure.

[0015] By adopting this yarn steaming process, steam can be fully transferred to the yarn, so that the moisture in the yarn is evenly distributed, achieving consistent wetness, strength and friction coefficient, which is convenient for subsequent sizing and weaving. The cotton cloth covering the first yarn can prevent steam condensation from dripping directly onto the first yarn and affecting the uniform moisture distribution.

[0016] Furthermore, the woven weft yarn is subjected to a scouring treatment and a plasma treatment before being subjected to the steam treatment.

[0017] Scouring removes wax from the surface of cotton fibers, while plasma treatment slightly damages the yarn structure, making it easier to dye the weft yarn evenly.

[0018] Furthermore, the yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 4 to 8 times the yarn count of the woven weft yarn, the yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 40S to 60S, and the yarn count of the woven weft yarn is 6S to 12S.

[0019] Furthermore, the post-finishing process includes singeing treatment, desizing treatment and pre-shrinking treatment in sequence.

[0020] Furthermore, in the singeing treatment, the front and back sides of the fabric are singed once each, the temperature is 300°C to 500°C, and the speed is 70m / min to 85m / min;

[0021] In the desizing treatment, the desizing enzyme concentration is 6 g / L to 10 g / L, the temperature is 55° C. to 65° C., and the vehicle speed is 60 m / min to 80 m / min.

[0022] Furthermore, the post-finishing also includes a low-shrinkage treatment and an opening-width treatment between the desizing treatment and the pre-shrinkage treatment. In the low-shrinkage treatment, the fabric is subjected to a circulating water wash in a rope-like form, the treatment time is 60 minutes to 80 minutes, and the water temperature is 50°C to 60°C; after the low-shrinkage treatment, the fabric is subjected to the opening-width treatment to restore the fabric from a rope-like form to a surface form.

[0023] During the low shrinkage treatment, the cotton fibers will swell and the fibers inside the yarn will be squeezed, so that the fibers in the yarn are in a relatively stable state, which is beneficial to improving the strength of the fabric.

[0024] Furthermore, the post-finishing further includes liquid ammonia finishing between the desizing treatment and the low shrinkage treatment. During the liquid ammonia finishing, the liquid ammonia tank rolling pressure is 1 MPa and the vehicle speed is 65 m / min.

[0025] Liquid ammonia finishing is also a way to make the fibers swell. Low shrinkage treatment after liquid ammonia finishing can make the cotton fibers swell further.

[0026] Furthermore, the post-finishing also includes a tentering treatment between the desizing treatment and the liquid ammonia treatment, and the steps of the tentering treatment include: firstly immersing the fabric in an aqueous solution containing hydrophilic silicone oil; and then widening the fabric by 0.5 inches to 1 inch.

[0027] The stentering treatment creates space for relative sliding between the warp yarn and the weft yarn, which is conducive to the full effect of subsequent liquid ammonia finishing and low shrinkage treatment; allowing the fabric to absorb some hydrophilic silicone oil before stentering is conducive to reducing fiber damage, especially fiber damage in the subsequent liquid ammonia finishing process.

[0028] In a second aspect, the present application provides a three-dimensional grainy denim garment, which is made by the three-dimensional grainy denim garment manufacturing method described in the first aspect. The denim garment has a unique texture of denim fabric, a three-dimensional grainy feel, and is not easy to crack.

[0029] The beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: the present invention interweaves thick woven weft yarns with thin woven warp yarns, and the weft yarns are not easy to break during weaving, which is beneficial to improving weaving efficiency. The mix of specific yarns that have undergone specific treatment makes the fabric not easy to crack and not stiff. It adopts a weaving structure opposite to that of traditional denim fabrics, and the weft weave points can well cover the woven warp yarns. After finishing and horizontal cutting, the original weft weave points become warp weave points that can well cover the applied weft yarns, which can produce the texture of traditional denim fabrics and have a granular feel. After washing, it can have the same old effect as traditional denim fabrics.

[0030] Other features and advantages of the present application will be described in the following description, and in part will become apparent from the description, or understood by practicing the present application. The purpose and other advantages of the present application can be realized and obtained by the structures particularly pointed out in the written description and the drawings. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0031] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the fabric structure during weaving in a method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing provided in an embodiment of the present application.

[0032] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the fabric structure after horizontal cutting in a method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing provided in an embodiment of the present application.

[0033] Figure 3 This is a flow chart of a method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing provided in an embodiment of the present application.

[0034] Reference numerals: 12, weft yarn; 3, first yarn; 4, second yarn. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0035] The embodiments of the present invention are described in detail below, examples of which are shown in the accompanying drawings, wherein the same or similar reference numerals throughout represent the same or similar elements or elements having the same or similar functions. The embodiments described below with reference to the accompanying drawings are exemplary and are only used to explain the present invention, and are not to be construed as limiting the present invention.

[0036] The following disclosure provides many different embodiments or examples for implementing different structures of the present invention. To simplify the disclosure of the present invention, the components and configurations of specific examples are described below. Of course, these are merely examples and are not intended to limit the present invention. In addition, the present invention may repeat reference numbers and / or reference letters in different examples. Such repetition is for the purpose of simplicity and clarity and does not in itself indicate the relationship between the various embodiments and / or configurations discussed.

[0037] It should be understood that, under the premise of no conflict, any and all embodiments of the present invention can be combined with the technical features in any other embodiment or multiple other embodiments to obtain additional embodiments. The present invention includes such combinations to obtain additional embodiments.

[0038] Unless otherwise specified, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the standard meanings in the art to which the claimed subject matter belongs. If there are multiple definitions for a term, the definition herein shall prevail.

[0039] When using the methods in the prior art to produce denim fabrics with a grainy feel, unqualified products are often produced, which do not meet the standard requirements and cannot be sold, greatly increasing the cost of good products.

[0040] Reference Figures 1 to 3 ( Figure 3 The oval box in the middle represents the material, and the rectangular box represents the steps). The embodiment of the present application provides a method for producing three-dimensional granular denim clothing. The raw materials used are woven warp yarns and woven weft yarns 12, both of which are cotton yarns. The yarn count of the woven warp yarns is 3 to 10 times that of the woven weft yarns 12. The raw materials of the woven warp yarns include a first yarn 3 and a second yarn 4. The twist coefficient of the first yarn 3 is 20% to 30% higher than that of the second yarn 4. The torsional stiffness of the first yarn 3 is 15% to 20% higher than that of the second yarn 4.

[0041] Before weaving, the first yarn 3 is steamed while being wound onto the bobbin. The weft yarn 12 is then steamed while stretched and then dyed. The steaming and dyeing of the weft yarn 12 can be performed in a conventional sizing and dyeing machine, which is equivalent to replacing the warping and dyeing steps in the prior art with the weft yarn 12, without sizing. The requirements for steaming the weft yarn 12 are the same as those for steaming denim warp yarn in the prior art.

[0042] Reference Figure 1 During weaving, the first yarn 3 and the second yarn 4 are arranged side by side in a ratio of 2:3, and the woven warp yarn and the woven weft yarn 12 are interwoven in a three-down-one-up manner.

[0043] After weaving, the cloth is finished and then cut horizontally, such as Figure 2 As shown, the woven warp yarn is used as the applied weft yarn, and the woven weft yarn 12 is used as the applied warp yarn, and the three-dimensional grainy denim clothing is obtained by continuing to sew.

[0044] This approach has the following advantages:

[0045] (1) By interweaving thick weft yarns with thin warp yarns, the weft yarns are less likely to break during weaving, which is beneficial to improving weaving efficiency.

[0046] (2) The weft yarns are dyed, while the warp yarns are not. The weft yarns are woven with a structure opposite to that of traditional denim fabrics. The weft yarns are thicker than the warp yarns, and the weft weave points can well cover the warp yarns. After finishing, the weft yarns used in weaving are used as the weft yarns used in application, and the weft yarns used in weaving are used as the warp yarns used in application. This is exactly the texture of traditional denim fabrics. The original weft weave points become warp weave points that can well cover the applied weft yarns. Therefore, the fabric has a grainy feel and a similar texture to ordinary denim fabrics. After washing, it can have the same distressed effect as traditional denim fabrics.

[0047] (3) Two types of yarns with different twist coefficients are used in the woven warp yarns. The first yarn with high twist coefficient and high torsional stiffness is responsible for providing strength, while the second yarn with low twist coefficient and low torsional stiffness is responsible for providing soft touch, toughness and drape. The mix of the two yarns is conducive to making the fabric less likely to crack, and has a good hand feel and is not stiff.

[0048] (4) Based on (3), the first yarn is steamed, which is beneficial to relax the bending degree of the fibers in the yarn, eliminate the unbalanced internal stress between the fibers in the yarn, and make the fibers in the yarn reach a relatively stable state, so that the strength of the first yarn is further improved. The woven weft yarn is steamed under tension, which can make the yarn structure relatively stable, and thus further optimize the fabric's anti-slip performance.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 4 to 8 times the yarn count of the woven weft yarn 12, the yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 40S to 60S, and the yarn count of the woven weft yarn 12 is 6S to 12S, which is beneficial to taking into account the strength, drape and crack resistance of the fabric.

[0050] The yarn steaming process is a double-cycle steaming process. The first yarn is placed in the yarn steamer. Before steaming, the rolls of the first yarn are covered with cotton cloth. The yarn steamer is first evacuated to a negative pressure (490Pa), heated to 90℃, kept warm for 8 minutes, and released. The yarn steamer is then evacuated to a negative pressure (490Pa) and heated to 120℃, kept warm for 65 minutes. The moisture in the steamer in the form of low-temperature saturated steam is transferred to the first yarn. The steamer is then released, and the yarn steamer is evacuated to a negative pressure (490Pa). Finally, air is introduced to restore the pressure to normal. The door is opened and the steamer is cooled automatically. The above process is repeated twice to complete the cycle steaming.

[0051] Covering the yarn with cotton cloth before steaming prevents water droplets from affecting the yarn. The low-temperature steaming process described above allows steam to be fully transferred to the first yarn, evenly distributing moisture throughout the yarn, achieving consistent strength and friction. Even moisture distribution facilitates uniform sizing, which in turn facilitates smooth weaving and ensures the strength of the fabric.

[0052] At the same time, the yarn steaming treatment can relax the bending degree of the fibers in the yarn, eliminate the unbalanced stress between the fibers in the yarn, and make the fibers in the yarn in a relatively stable state, which is beneficial to the strength improvement of the yarn, and reduce the shrinkage of the yarn, so as to stabilize the performance of the yarn.

[0053] Then, the woven warp yarn is sized and dried.

[0054] The weft yarn 12 undergoes a scouring and plasma treatment prior to steam treatment. Scouring removes most wax and other impurities from the cotton fiber surface. Plasma treatment disrupts the fiber surface structure. High-temperature steam treatment in the sizing and dyeing machine facilitates relative transfer between fibers within the yarn, stabilizing the yarn structure. The steam-treated weft yarn is then dyed using the same process parameters used for warp dyeing in conventional processes.

[0055] The conventional finishing of denim fabrics includes singeing, desizing and shrinking.

[0056] Reference Figure 3 In the most preferred embodiment of the present application, post-finishing includes singeing treatment, desizing treatment, stretching treatment, liquid ammonia finishing, low shrinkage treatment, opening treatment and pre-shrinkage treatment in sequence, and the specific requirements are as follows.

[0057] Singeing treatment: The fabric is singed in a singeing machine, once on the front and once on the back, at a treatment temperature of 300℃~500℃, 70m / min~85m / min, to remove fiber hairiness on the fabric surface.

[0058] Desizing treatment: The fabric after singeing treatment is desized. The concentration of desizing enzyme is 6g / L~10g / L, the treatment temperature is 55℃~65℃, and the speed is 60m / min~80m / min. The desizing enzyme is used to remove the size on the surface of the fabric, making the fabric relatively soft.

[0059] Stentering treatment: The fabric after desizing treatment is subjected to stentering treatment. In the stentering machine, the fabric is first dipped and treated, and hydrophilic silicone oil is added to the water tank. This can evenly cover the outer layer of the cotton fiber with a protective film, slowing down the embrittlement effect of subsequent liquid ammonia treatment on the cotton fiber and reducing damage to the fiber. After desizing treatment, it is easier to perform stentering treatment. During the stentering treatment, the width of the fabric is widened by 0.5 inches to 1 inch, so that there is space for relative sliding between the warp and weft yarns, reducing the force between the warp and weft yarns, which is beneficial to the subsequent processing steps.

[0060] Liquid ammonia finishing: The liquid ammonia tank roller pressure is 1MPa, and the speed is 65m / min. By properly controlling the roller pressure, reducing the amount of liquid on the fabric, and increasing the speed, the fibers swell into a quasi-round shape, while reducing the impact of liquid ammonia on fiber properties. The fabric is then rinsed with clean water at a temperature of 65°C.

[0061] Shrinkage treatment: After stentering, the fabric is subjected to shrinkage treatment. The fabric is washed in clean water under low tension in a machine. Specifically, the fabric is washed in a circular water cycle in a rope shape for 60-80 minutes at a water temperature of 50-60°C, which effectively shrinks the fabric, especially in the weft direction. After absorbing moisture, the cotton fibers swell further, shortening their length. Relative shifts occur between the fibers, and the fibers in the center of the yarn are further squeezed, keeping the fibers in the yarn in a relatively stable state and eliminating internal stress that disrupts the equilibrium between the fibers. Since the fabric has undergone a simple stentering treatment, there is sufficient space for the warp and weft yarns to move relative to each other during the shrinkage treatment, ultimately achieving a stable state and improving the strength of the fabric.

[0062] Opening: The fabric is opened to restore the fabric from rope shape to flat shape.

[0063] Pre-shrinkage treatment: The fabric after opening is pre-shrinked, and the process parameters are the same as those of the pre-shrinkage treatment of ordinary denim fabrics.

[0064] Example 1

[0065] The raw materials used are cotton warp yarn and woven weft yarn, the count of the woven weft yarn is 12S, and the woven warp yarn includes a first yarn and a second yarn, both of which have a count of 36S. The twist coefficient of the first yarn is 20% higher than that of the second yarn, and the torsional stiffness of the first yarn is 15% higher than that of the second yarn.

[0066] Before weaving, the first yarn is steamed when being wound on a bobbin, and both the first yarn and the second yarn are sized; the weft yarn to be woven is steamed and dyed in a sizing and dyeing machine.

[0067] During weaving, the first and second yarns are arranged side by side in a ratio of 2:3, and the warp and weft yarns are interwoven in a three-under-one-over pattern. The weaving efficiency is 98.8%.

[0068] After weaving, the cloth is finished, cut horizontally and then sewn to obtain three-dimensional grainy denim clothing.

[0069] The post-finishing includes singeing, desizing and shrinking.

[0070] Fabric stiffness is often used to evaluate the softness of a fabric and also determines its drape and touch feel. The bending properties of denim fabrics before and after washing were tested using a YG522 electronic stiffness tester. The calculation expression for bending stiffness is as follows:

[0071]

[0072] (cN.cm)

[0073] Where C is the bending length, l is the extended length, θ is the tilt angle, B is the bending stiffness, and W is the weight per square meter of fabric (g / m 2 ). The greater the fabric bending stiffness, the harder the fabric; conversely, the softer the fabric and the better the hand feel.

[0074] The warp-direction bending stiffness of the fabric tested above (parallel to the warp yarns) was 0.3862 cN.cm. A slippage test (parallel to the warp yarns) on denim fabric, conducted in accordance with Section 9.2.1 of GB / T 21294-2014, Test Methods for Physical and Chemical Properties of Garments, was conducted, and the result was 0.41 cm.

[0075] Example 2

[0076] The raw materials used are cotton warp yarn and woven weft yarn, the count of the woven weft yarn is 8S, and the woven warp yarn includes a first yarn and a second yarn, both of which have a count of 40S. The twist coefficient of the first yarn is 30% higher than that of the second yarn, and the torsional stiffness of the first yarn is 20% higher than that of the second yarn.

[0077] Before weaving, the first yarn is steamed when being wound on a bobbin, and both the first yarn and the second yarn are sized; the weft yarn to be woven is steamed and dyed in a sizing and dyeing machine.

[0078] During weaving, the first and second yarns are arranged side by side in a ratio of 2:3, and the warp and weft yarns are interwoven in a three-under-one-over pattern. The weaving efficiency is 98.1%.

[0079] After weaving, the cloth is finished, cut horizontally and then sewn to obtain three-dimensional grainy denim clothing.

[0080] Finishing includes singeing, desizing, stentering, liquid ammonia finishing, low-shrinkage treatment, width-opening treatment, and pre-shrinkage. During the stentering treatment, the fabric is first dipped in a water tank containing 12g / L of hydrophilic silicone oil (TF-4881, Chuanhua Zhilian Co., Ltd.). After stentering, the fabric width is widened by 0.5 inches. The liquid ammonia tank padder pressure is 1MPa, with a measured roll-off rate of 30%. The speed is 65m / min. After the liquid ammonia treatment, the fabric is rinsed with clean water at a temperature of 65°C. The low-shrinkage treatment lasts for 60 minutes at a water temperature of 50°C.

[0081] The resulting fabric's warp-direction bending stiffness was tested, resulting in a value of 0.4285 cN.cm. Following Section 9.2.1 of GB / T 21294-2014, Test Methods for Physical and Chemical Properties of Garments, a slippage test (parallel to the warp yarns) was conducted on the denim fabric, yielding a value of 0.36 cm.

[0082] Comparative Example 1

[0083] The raw materials used are both cotton yarns for warp and weft, with the count of the warp being 12S and the count of the weft being 36S.

[0084] Before weaving, the warp yarns are dyed and sized in a sizing and dyeing machine.

[0085] During weaving, the warp and weft yarns were interwoven in a three-up, one-down pattern. The weaving efficiency was 63.8%, and the fabric had multiple horizontal defects.

[0086] After weaving, the cloth is post-finished to obtain three-dimensional grainy denim clothing.

[0087] The post-finishing includes singeing, desizing and shrinking.

[0088] The resulting fabric's warp-direction bending stiffness was tested, resulting in a value of 0.6851 cN.cm. Following Section 9.2.1 of GB / T 21294-2014, Test Methods for Physical and Chemical Properties of Garments, a slippage test (parallel to the warp yarns) was conducted on the denim fabric, yielding a value of 0.45 cm.

[0089] Comparative Example 2

[0090] The warp yarn and the weft yarn are both cotton yarns, the weft yarn has a count of 12S, and the warp yarn includes two yarns each having a count of 36S.

[0091] Before weaving, the weft yarn is subjected to steam treatment and dyeing in a dyeing and sizing combined machine.

[0092] During weaving, the warp yarn and the weft yarn are interwoven in a three-under-one-over manner, and the weaving efficiency is 95.2%.

[0093] After weaving, the fabric is subjected to finishing, and then is cut in the transverse direction to obtain a three-dimensional grainy jean garment.

[0094] The finishing includes singeing, desizing and preshrinking.

[0095] The warp-wise bending stiffness of the obtained fabric is 0.3258 cN.cm, and the slippage of the jean fabric (in the direction parallel to the warp yarn) is 0.56 cm according to GB / T 21294-2014 Test methods for physical and chemical properties of garments, Section 9.2.1.

[0096] The warp yarn during weaving is regarded as the weft yarn during application, and the weft yarn during weaving is regarded as the warp yarn during application, so that the effect of thick warp and thin weft is achieved, and the quality problem of horizontal bar caused by weaving breakage is solved. The method is advantageous for workshop workers to control multiple looms, and the fabric obtained by the method has high qualification rate and can effectively solve the quality problems of weft bending and slippage, and achieve the three-dimensional grainy texture effect of the fabric.

[0097] In the description of the present specification, the description referring to the terms "one embodiment", "certain embodiments", "exemplary embodiment", "example", "specific example", or "some examples" means that the specific features, structures, materials or characteristics described in connection with the embodiment or example are included in at least one embodiment or example of the present application. In the present specification, the exemplary description of the above terms does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example. Moreover, the specific features, structures, materials or characteristics described can be combined in any one or more embodiments or examples in a suitable manner.

[0098] The above is the preferred embodiment of the present application, and it should be noted that those skilled in the art can make several improvements and refinements without departing from the principles of the present application, and these improvements and refinements are also considered within the protection scope of the present application.

Claims

1. A method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing, wherein the raw materials are both cotton yarns for woven warp yarn and woven weft yarn, characterized in that: The yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 3 to 10 times that of the woven weft yarn, the woven warp yarn includes a first yarn and a second yarn, the twist coefficient of the first yarn is 20% to 30% higher than the twist coefficient of the second yarn, and the torsional rigidity of the first yarn is 15% to 20% higher than the torsional rigidity of the second yarn; Before weaving, the first yarn is subjected to a steaming treatment when wound on a bobbin, and the weft yarn to be woven is subjected to a steam treatment in a stretched state and then dyed; During weaving, the first yarn and the second yarn are arranged side by side in a ratio of 2:3, and the woven warp yarn and the woven weft yarn are interwoven in a three-under-one-over pattern; After weaving, the cloth is post-finished and then cut transversely so that the woven warp yarns are used as applied weft yarns and the woven weft yarns are used as applied warp yarns, and the three-dimensional grainy denim clothing is sewn.

2. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 1, characterized in that: The yarn steaming process is a double-cycle yarn steaming process, and the first yarn is covered with cotton cloth; The operation of each cycle includes: vacuuming the yarn steamer, heating to 90℃, keeping warm for 8 minutes and then releasing the pressure, vacuuming again, heating to 120℃, keeping warm for 65 minutes and then releasing the pressure, continuing vacuuming, and finally returning to normal pressure.

3. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 1, characterized in that: The woven weft yarn is further subjected to a scouring treatment and a plasma treatment before being subjected to the steam treatment.

4. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 1, characterized in that: The yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 4 to 8 times the yarn count of the woven weft yarn, the yarn count of the woven warp yarn is 40S to 60S, and the yarn count of the woven weft yarn is 6S to 12S.

5. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 1, characterized in that: The post-finishing process includes singeing, desizing and pre-shrinking in sequence.

6. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 5, characterized in that: In the singeing treatment, the front and back sides of the fabric are singed once each, the temperature is 300°C to 500°C, and the speed is 70m / min to 85m / min; In the desizing treatment, the desizing enzyme concentration is 6 g / L to 10 g / L, the temperature is 55° C. to 65° C., and the vehicle speed is 60 m / min to 80 m / min.

7. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 5, characterized in that: The post-finishing also includes a low-shrinkage treatment and a width-opening treatment between the desizing treatment and the pre-shrinkage treatment. In the low-shrinkage treatment, the fabric is subjected to a circulating water wash in a rope-like form for 60 minutes to 80 minutes at a water temperature of 50°C to 60°C. After the low-shrinkage treatment, the fabric is subjected to the width-opening treatment to restore the fabric from a rope-like form to a flat form.

8. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 7, characterized in that: The post-finishing further includes liquid ammonia finishing between the desizing treatment and the low shrinkage treatment. During the liquid ammonia finishing, the liquid ammonia tank rolling pressure is 1 MPa and the rolling speed is 65 m / min.

9. The method for producing three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to claim 8, characterized in that: The post-finishing also includes a tentering process between the desizing process and the liquid ammonia finishing process, and the tentering process includes: firstly padding the fabric with an aqueous solution containing hydrophilic silicone oil; and then widening the fabric by 0.5 inch to 1 inch.

10. A three-dimensional granular denim garment, characterized in that: The three-dimensional grainy denim clothing is made by the method for making the three-dimensional grainy denim clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

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