Cosmetic composition comprising anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, at least two different cationic polysaccharides and one or more silicones
The problem of existing hair care products not being able to maintain hair health and beauty for a long time by using cationic surfactants, anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants and silicone compositions is solved, and continuous care and brightness of hair is achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202380060259.2
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-08-19
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-07
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-28
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care products cannot maintain the health and beauty of hair for a long time after providing short-term care effects, especially for the most sensitive hair, which is not long-lasting enough and may lead to a oily feeling.
A cosmetic composition is employed that comprises at least two different cationic surfactants, one or more anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, and one or more silicones, and the weight ratio between the total content of the cationic surfactant and the total content of the silicone is greater than or equal to 7.
The composition provides significant care and brightness properties immediately after use and for at least 24 hours, significantly improving hair flexibility, repairing effects, and maintaining added value in cleanliness and brightness.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least two cationic surfactants different from each other, one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and one or more silicones, the cationic surfactants and the silicones having a specific weight ratio.
[0002] The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials using said composition.
[0003] Hair is sensitive to various types of aggression and can be brittle and damaged to varying degrees by the action of the external environment, in particular by atmospheric factors such as light, atmospheric pollution and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving and / or relaxing, or even repeated washing.
[0004] The properties of damaged hair are then degraded and various manifestations of damage are seen, such as difficulty in detangling and styling the hair, the hair lacks softness, the hair may become dry, brittle or dull over time, especially in brittle areas, and more specifically at the ends.
[0005] In order to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to use hair compositions for conditioning the hair by imparting to them satisfactory cosmetic properties. These hair care compositions intended to be regularly applied to the hair may be, for example, shampoos, conditioners, masks or serums and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or treatment creams, which are more or less thick. These compositions are generally based on the use of high levels of silicones and offer benefits which are rarely sufficient for the most damaged hair and which are visible only at the time of application and only for a few hours after said application.
[0006] Although there are many treatment formulas for hair repair, they usually do not impart fully satisfactory and lasting cosmetic properties to the hair. In fact, the benefits provided, such as detangling, smoothness, shine, flexibility, or repair of ends, are not always sufficient for the most sensitive hair or are accompanied by a long and greasy (lank) feeling. In addition, these benefits decrease rapidly over time.
[0007] Furthermore, the use of high silicone levels may be viewed as a disadvantage by consumers.
[0008] The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a cosmetic composition for treating keratin materials, in particular for conditioning the hair, comprising a low silicone content relative to the content of conditioning agents of the cationic surfactant type, said composition being effective in imparting cosmetic properties to the hair both at the time of application and over a period of time that lasts over time. The composition is also characterized by very pronounced care and repair benefits, while maintaining added value in terms of brightness and cleanliness.
[0009] The object of the present invention was therefore in particular to propose a composition which, with a low silicone content, provides outstanding conditioning and shine properties immediately after its application until the next shampoo wash.
[0010] The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:
[0011] - one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants,
[0012] - at least two cationic surfactants that are different from each other, and
[0013] - one or more silicones,
[0014] The weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactants and the total content of silicone is greater than or equal to 7.
[0015] It should be noted that the composition according to the invention rinses off easily and, after application, imparts a good level of hair conditioning and also a clean feel without leaving the hair feeling long and greasy; these effects last at least 24 hours and may persist after shampooing.
[0016] The observed cosmetic performance results, particularly in terms of easier detangling, longer lasting smooth feel, increased flexibility, improved care / nourishment provided, coating quality, repair (particularly end repair), prevention of breakage and prevention of frizz, can advantageously be achieved at low silicone levels, particularly levels below those typically used.
[0017] In this specification, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0018] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be replaced by it;
[0019] - the expression "between" is equivalent to and can be replaced by the expression "ranging from..." and means that the limit values are included;
[0020] Cationic surfactants
[0021] The composition comprises at least two cationic surfactants that are different from each other. It may comprise more than two cationic surfactants, for example at least three cationic surfactants that are different from each other.
[0022] The two cationic surfactants are different from each other but may belong to the same chemical family, in particular to one of the families defined below, and / or may be structurally similar.
[0023] Cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say they do not contain any Si-O groups.
[0024] They are preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0025] Cationic surfactants which can be used can advantageously be selected, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:
[0026] -Compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II):
[0027]
[0028] in:
[0029] X - is an anion especially selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
[0030] The radicals R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent linear or branched aliphatic radicals comprising 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or aromatic radicals such as aryl or alkylaryl radicals, at least one of the radicals R1 to R4 indicating a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, these aliphatic radicals possibly comprising heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens.
[0031] Aliphatic groups are selected from C1-C 30 Alkyl, C1-C 30 Alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylamido (C2-C6)alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate and C1-C 30 Hydroxyalkyl.
[0032] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preferred ones are tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl radical comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyldimethylcetostearylammonium salts or stearylamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts, such as those marketed under the name 70 of those sold.
[0033] Particular preference is given to using the chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of these compounds.
[0034] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (III):
[0035]
[0036] wherein R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acid, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and X - is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alkyl aryl sulfonates, wherein the alkyl and aryl groups preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.
[0037] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acid, R7 denotes a methyl group and R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.
[0038] Such products are sold by Ruiwo Company under the name W 75 Sales,
[0039] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts of formula (IV):
[0040]
[0041] in
[0042] R9 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
[0043] R 10 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R 9a )(R10a )(R 11a )N-(CH2)3, where R 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
[0044] X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonates and (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
[0045] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (quaternium salt 89) sold by Finetex, and Finquat CT (quaternium salt 75) sold by Finetex;
[0046] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V):
[0047]
[0048] in:
[0049] R 15 Selected from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl;
[0050] R 16 Selected from the group R19-C(O)-; the group R 20 , which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 22 Hydrocarbon-based groups; hydrogen atoms;
[0051] R 18 Selected from the group R21-C(O)-; the group R 22 , which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group; a hydrogen atom;
[0052] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
[0053] r, s and t may be the same or different and are integers having values from 2 to 6;
[0054] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
[0055] x and z may be the same or different and are integers having values from 0 to 10;
[0056] X - are simple or complex, organic or inorganic anions;
[0057] The premise is that the sum of x+y+z is from 1 to 15; when x is 0, then R 16 Indicator R 20 ; and when z is 0, then R 18 Indicator R 22 .
[0058] Alkyl R 15 R may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. 15 Methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl is indicated, and more particularly methyl or ethyl.
[0059] Advantageously, the sum of x+y+z is 1-10.
[0060] When R 16 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 20 When it is present, it may be longer and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be shorter and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0061] When R 18 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 22 When , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0062] Advantageously, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 A hydrocarbon-based group, and more particularly selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 Alkyl and alkenyl.
[0063] Preferably, x and z may be the same or different and equal to 0 or 1.
[0064] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0065] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly equal to 2.
[0066] Anion X -Preferred are halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl sulfates, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, toluenesulfonate, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium carrying an ester function may be used. Anion X - Even more particular are chloride or methyl sulfate.
[0067] In the compositions according to the invention, it is more particularly possible to use ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R 15 Indicates methyl or ethyl, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;
[0068] R 16 Selected from the group R 19 -C(O)-, methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, as well as hydrogen atoms;
[0069] R 18 Selected from the group R 21 -C(O)- and hydrogen atoms;
[0070] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different, and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 The hydrocarbon-based group is preferably selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 Alkyl and alkenyl.
[0071] Advantageously, these hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
[0072] For example, compounds of formula (V) may be mentioned, such as the following salts (especially chlorides, bromides or methyl sulfates): diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium. These acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
[0073] These products are prepared, for example, by reacting triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine (which may be oxyalkylened) with C 10 -C 30 Fatty acids or C10 -C 30 Direct esterification of a mixture of fatty acids or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, ethylene chloride or chloroglycerol.
[0074] Such compounds are marketed, for example, by Henkel under the name Sold by Stepan under the name Sold by CECA under the name Sold or sold by Rewo-Witco under the name Sold by WE 18.
[0075] The compositions according to the invention may contain, for example, mixtures of quaternary ammonium monoesters, diesters and triester salts, the majority by weight being the diester salts.
[0076] It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function as described in patents US Pat. No. 4,874,554 and US Pat. No. 4,137,180.
[0077] Behenyl hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride sold under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 by Kao Corporation (KAO) may be used.
[0078] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester function contains two ester functions.
[0079] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, preference is given to using dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt, especially the chloride, bromide or methylsulfate salt.
[0080] The term "fatty amine" means a amine group comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylened primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group, or a salt thereof and comprising at least one C6-C 30 And preferably C8-C 30 Compounds based on hydrocarbon chains.
[0081] Preferably, the fatty amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
[0082] As examples of fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be carried by the amine group or by the amide group.
[0083] The term "amidoamine" means a compound comprising at least one amide functional group and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group.
[0084] The term "fatty amidoamine" refers to an amine generally comprising at least one C6-C 30 Amidoamines based on hydrocarbon chains. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.
[0085] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
[0086] Preferably, the fatty amide amine is selected from (C 10 -C 30 )alkylamido (C1-C8) alkyl (di) (C1-C6) alkylamine and its salts, and more preferably selected from (C 14 -C 26 )alkylamido (C1-C6) alkyl (di) (C1-C4) alkylamine and salts thereof, preferably selected from (C 16 -C 24 )alkylamido (C2-C4) alkyl (di) (C1-C2) alkylamine and salts thereof, even more preferably selected from (C 18 -C 22 )alkylamido(C2-C4)alkyl(di)(C1-C2)alkylamine and its salts.
[0087] Among the fatty amidoamines used according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR"N(R')2(VI)
[0088] in:
[0089] -R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C 29 And preferably C7-C 23 Alkyl, or linear or branched C5-C 29 And preferably C7-C 23 alkenyl;
[0090] -R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0091] -R', which may be the same or different, represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl.
[0092] As fatty amidoamines that can be used, mention may be made of the following, alone or as a mixture: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (especially produced under the name Lexamine by Inolex Chemical Company), S13 sales products), isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauroamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dimer linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, castor oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocado oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocoamidopropyl dimethylamine, mink oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, oat oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesame oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, olive oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, rapeseed oilamidopropyl dimethylamine and their salts.
[0093] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from the following, alone or as a mixture, and also the salts thereof,
[0094] -Rapeseed oleamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula RC(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2
[0095] RC(O) is a fatty acid derived from rapeseed oil (canola oil), most of which is behenyl (C 22 );
[0096] -Formula CH3-(CH2) 16 -C(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2 stearamidopropyl dimethylamine;
[0097] -Formula CH3-(CH2) 20 -C(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2-behenamidopropyl dimethylamine
[0098] -Oleamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0099] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one selected from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above and mixtures thereof; better still selected from those of formula (II) or (V) above and mixtures thereof; even better still selected from those of formula (V) above.
[0100] Preferably, the composition comprises at least two cationic surfactants both selected from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above and mixtures thereof; better still, at least one of the cationic surfactants is selected from those of formula (V) above and at least another of the cationic surfactants is selected from those of formula (II) and / or (VI) above.
[0101] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants selected from the following salts (such as chlorides, bromides or methyl sulfates): diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl group preferably has 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0102] Even better, the composition comprises:
[0103] (i) one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl group preferably has 14 to 18 carbon atoms; and
[0104] (ii) one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of:
[0105] (iii) tetraalkylammonium salts, especially dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetylammonium salts; preferably the chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of these compounds; and / or
[0106] (iib) an amidoamine of formula (VI) RCONHR"N(R')2 as defined above.
[0107] Preferably, the composition comprises:
[0108] (i) one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl group preferably has 14 to 18 carbon atoms; and
[0109] (ii) one or more cationic surfactants chosen from tetraalkylammonium salts, especially dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetylammonium salts; preferably the chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of these compounds.
[0110] Even better, the composition comprises:
[0111] - one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of salts, especially chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium and mixtures thereof; and
[0112] - one or more cationic surfactants chosen from the salts, especially chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates, of behentrimonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof.
[0113] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises cationic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight and even better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0114] In particular, when the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants chosen from the following salts (such as chlorides, bromides or methyl sulfates): diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof, preferably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, the acyl group preferably has 14 to 18 carbon atoms, they are advantageously included in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0115] When the composition contains:
[0116] (i) one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl group preferably has 14 to 18 carbon atoms; and
[0117] (ii) one or more cationic surfactants chosen from tetraalkylammonium salts, especially dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetylammonium salts; preferably the chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of these compounds,
[0118] Advantageously contained are surfactants (i) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and surfactants (ii) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0119] Even better, when the composition comprises:
[0120] - one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of salts, especially chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium and mixtures thereof; and
[0121] - one or more cationic surfactants chosen from the salts, especially chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates, of behentrimonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof.
[0122] It advantageously comprises a surfactant chosen from dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
[0123] A surfactant chosen from behentrimonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and dicetyldimethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0124] Anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants
[0125] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.
[0126] Thus, the composition may comprise one or more anionic surfactants, or one or more amphoteric surfactants, or one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants.
[0127] The anionic and the amphoteric surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say they do not contain Si-O groups.
[0128] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.
[0129] In this specification, a substance is referred to as "anionic" when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species under the conditions of use of the compositions of the invention (e.g., medium or pH) and does not contain any cationic charges.
[0130] The anionic surfactant may be a sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic acid (or carboxylate) surfactant. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
[0131] It should be understood in this specification that:
[0132] -Carboxylate anionic surfactants contain at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO - ) and may optionally also contain one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functional groups;
[0133] -Sulfonate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfonate functional group (-SO3H or -SO3 – ) and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functional groups, but not any carboxylate functional groups; and
[0134] -Sulfate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfate functional group, but do not contain any carboxylate or sulfonate functional groups.
[0135] Thus, carboxylic acid anionic surfactants that can be used include at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO - ).
[0136] They can be selected from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C 6-30 and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl radicals of these compounds contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 28, better still 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; aryl preferably denotes phenyl or benzyl; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylened, especially polyoxyethylenened, and then preferably comprise 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units, better still 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.
[0137] Polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid C6-C 24 Alkyl monoesters, such as C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-citrate, C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-tartrate and C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinate and its salts.
[0138] Among the above carboxylic acid surfactants, mention may most particularly be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkyleneoxy groups and in particular ethyleneoxy groups, such as the compounds sold under the name Akypo by the company Kao (Kao).
[0139] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably selected from those of the formula (1):
[0140] R 1' –(OC2H4) n' –OCH2COOA (1)
[0141] in:
[0142] -R 1' Indicates straight or branched C6-C 24 Alkyl or alkenyl, (C8-C9) alkylphenyl, group R 2' CONH-CH2-CH2-, where R 2' Indicates straight or branched chain C9-C 21 alkyl or alkenyl; preferably, R 1' It is C8-C 20 , preferably C8-C 18 alkyl;
[0143] - n' is an integer or a decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
[0144] -A indicates H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
[0145] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of the formula (1), in particular compounds having different radicals R 1' mixture of compounds.
[0146] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:
[0147] -R 1' Indicates straight or branched C8-C 22 , especially C 10 -C 16 or even C 12 -C 14 Alkyl, or alternatively (C8-C9)alkylphenyl;
[0148] -A indicates a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
[0149] -n' ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
[0150] Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used, wherein R 1' Indication C 12 -C 14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, A indicates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' ranges from 2 to 10.
[0151] Among the commercial products that can preferably be used are the products sold by Kao Corporation (KAO) under the following names:
[0152] NP 70 (R1 = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H)
[0153] NP 40 (R1 = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)
[0154] OP 40 (R1 = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)
[0155] OP 80 (R1 = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H)
[0156] OP 190 (R1 = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H)
[0157] RLM 38(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4, A=H)
[0158] RLM38NV(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4, A=Na)
[0159] RLM 45CA(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)
[0160] RLM45NV(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)
[0161] RLM 100(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=10, A=H)
[0162] RLM 100NV(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=10, A=Na)
[0163] RLM 130(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=13, A=H)
[0164] RLM 160NV(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=16, A=Na),
[0165] Or products marketed by Sandoz under the following names:
[0166] Sandopan DTC-Acid (R1=(C 13 )alkyl, n=6, A=H)
[0167] Sandopan DTC(R1=(C 13 )alkyl, n=6, A=Na)
[0168] Sandopan LS24(R1=(C 12 -C 14 )alkyl, n=12, A=Na)
[0169] Sandopan JA 36(R1=(C 13 )alkyl, n=18, A=H),
[0170] and more particularly the products marketed under the following names:
[0171] RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid), RLM 100 and RLM38.
[0172] Preferably, the carboxylic acid anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a mixture:
[0173] -Acylglutamates, especially C6-C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 Acylglutamates of stearoyl glutamate, such as stearoyl glutamate, and in particular disodium stearoyl glutamate;
[0174] -Acylsarcosinates, especially C6-C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 Acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinate, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;
[0175] -Acyl lactylates, especially C 12 -C 28 or even C 14 -C 24 Acyl lactylates, such as behenyl lactylate, and in particular sodium behenyl lactylate;
[0176] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl glycinates;
[0177] -(C6-C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, and especially (C 12 -C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups;
[0178] -Polyoxyalkylene (C6-C 24 ) alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, especially those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups;
[0179] In particular, they are in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.
[0180] It is preferred to use polyoxyalkylene (C6-C 24 )Alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts.
[0181] Sulfonate anionic surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfonate functional group (-SO3H or -SO3 – ). They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;
[0182] The alkyl group of these compounds contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 28, better still 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl group or a benzyl group;
[0183] These compounds may be polyoxyalkylened, in particular polyoxyethylenened, and then preferably comprise 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units and better still 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.
[0184] Preferably, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a mixture:
[0185] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates;
[0186] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinate;
[0187] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
[0188] -(C6-C 24 ) acyl isethionate, and preferably (C 12 -C 18 ) acyl isethionates;
[0189] In particular, they are in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.
[0190] Sulfate anionic surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfate functional group (-OSO3H or -OSO3 - ).
[0191] They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and salts of these compounds;
[0192] The alkyl group of these compounds contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 28, better still 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl group or a benzyl group;
[0193] These compounds may be polyoxyalkylened, in particular polyoxyethylenened, and then preferably comprise 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units and better still 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.
[0194] Preferably, the sulfate anionic surfactant is selected, alone or as a mixture:
[0195] -Alkyl sulfates, especially C6-C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfates; and
[0196] -Alkyl ether sulfates, especially C6-C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates, preferably containing 1 to 20 ethyleneoxy units;
[0197] In particular, they are in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.
[0198] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the salt may be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts), ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts and alkaline earth metal salts (such as magnesium salts).
[0199] Examples of aminoalcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diolate salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0200] Preference is given to using alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium salts or magnesium salts.
[0201] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are selected, alone or as a mixture:
[0202] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfates;
[0203] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates; preferably containing 1 to 20 ethyleneoxy units;
[0204] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates;
[0205] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates;
[0206] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
[0207] -(C6-C 24 ) acyl isethionate, and preferably (C 12 -C 18 ) acyl isethionates;
[0208] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl sarcosinates;
[0209] -(C6-C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12 -C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups;
[0210] -Polyoxyalkylene (C6-C 24 ) alkylamidoether carboxylic acids and their salts, especially those containing 2 to 50 alkyleneoxy groups and especially ethyleneoxy groups;
[0211] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acylglutamate;
[0212] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl glycinates;
[0213] In particular, they are in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.
[0214] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more selected from C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfate, preferably C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Anionic surfactants of alkyl ether sulfates; these surfactants are more particularly in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; and also mixtures thereof.
[0215] The composition according to the invention may also be free (0%) of sulfated surfactants (free of sulfate); in this case, it advantageously comprises one or more anionic surfactants (alone or as a mixture) chosen from,
[0216] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates;
[0217] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates;
[0218] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
[0219] -(C6-C 24 ) acyl isethionate, and preferably (C 12 -C 18 ) acyl isethionates;
[0220] -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl sarcosinates;
[0221] -(C6-C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12 -C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups;
[0222] In particular, they are in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.
[0223] When they are present, anionic surfactants are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still (strictly) less than 1% by weight, in particular able to range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and better still from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0224] Amphoteric surfactants that can be used in the context of the present invention are non-silicone.
[0225] The term "amphoteric surfactant" means a surfactant comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.
[0226] Particular mention may be made of (C8-C 20 ) alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkyl sulfobetaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaine and (C8-C 20 )alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfonobetaine.
[0227] They may also be chosen from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is straight-chain or branched containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0228] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the corresponding structures (A), (B) and (C) below:
[0229] (A)R a -CONHCH2CH2-N + (R b )(R c )-CH2COO - ,M + ,X - (I)
[0230] in:
[0231] -R a denotes an acid R derived from preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil a C of COOH 10 To C 30 alkyl or alkenyl, or heptyl, nonyl or undecyl;
[0232] -R brepresents β-hydroxyethyl; and
[0233] -R c represents carboxymethyl;
[0234] -M + represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
[0235] -X - represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as an anionic counterion selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or alternatively, M + and X - does not exist;
[0236] (B)R a' -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B')
[0237] in:
[0238] -B represents a group -CH2CH2OX';
[0239] -B' represents the group -(CH2) z Y', where z = 1 or 2;
[0240] -X' represents a group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
[0241] -Y' represents a group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or a group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z';
[0242] -Z' represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;
[0243] -R a' represents the acid R preferably present in coconut kernel oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil a' -COOH C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl, or alkyl, especially C 17 Groups, and isomeric forms thereof, or unsaturated C 17 Group.
[0244] These compounds are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0245] By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold by Rhodia under the trade name Cocoamphodiacetate sold by C2M Concentrate.
[0246] (C)R a” -NHCH(Y')-(CH2) n CONH(CH2) n' -N(R d )(R e )
[0247] in:
[0248] -Y" represents a group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or a group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z";
[0249] -R d and R e independently of one another represent a C1 to C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group;
[0250] -Z" represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;
[0251] -R a” represents an acid R preferably present in coconut kernel oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil a” -COOH C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl;
[0252] -n and n' indicate an integer ranging from 1 to 3 independently of each other.
[0253] Among the amphoteric surfactants, (C8-C 20 ) alkyl betaine such as cocoyl betaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (C) such as salts, especially the sodium salt, of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
[0254] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C 20 ) alkyl betaine such as cocoyl betaine, (C8-C 20 )Alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine and mixtures thereof.
[0255] When they are present, the amphoteric surfactants are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still (strictly) less than 1% by weight, in particular able to range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and better still from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0256] Preferably, the composition comprises a total content of surfactants chosen from anionic and amphoteric surfactants ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight, especially from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and better still from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0257] Silicone
[0258] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones which may in particular be chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones and mixtures thereof.
[0259] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amino silicones which may be solid or liquid (at 25° C., 1 atm) and volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amino silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones.
[0260] The non-amino silicones that can be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
[0261] Silicones are described in particular detail in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" by Walter Noll (1968), Academic Press.
[0262] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C. (at atmospheric pressure), and in particular from:
[0263] i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as
[0264] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione 70045V 2 by Rhodia, under the name Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione 70045V5 by Rhodia;
[0265] - Cyclic copolymers of dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the following chemical structure:
[0266]
[0267] Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide.
[0268] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1,1′-oxy(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane;
[0269] ii) a linear polydialkylsiloxane containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally has a carbon number less than or equal to 5×10 -6 m 2 / s viscosity, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0270] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics by Todd & Byers, Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone.
[0271] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (polydimethylsiloxane / PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also non-aminoorganopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones), which are polysiloxanes containing in their structure one or more non-aminoorganic functional groups, generally attached via hydrocarbon-based groups and preferably chosen from aryl, alkoxy and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups.
[0272] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes (especially polydiphenylsiloxanes) and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the previously mentioned organofunctional groups. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.
[0273] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:
[0274] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene, which may optionally include C6-C 24 Alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols and especially those sold under the name DC 1248 by Dow Corning or oils from Union Carbide L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711; or alternatively (C 12 ) alkyl methicone copolyols, and especially those sold under the name Q2-5200 by Dow Corning;
[0275] - thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72A and GP 71 by Genesee;
[0276] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Silicone Copolymer sold by Goschmidt 2428, 2434 and 2440;
[0277] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl functional groups;
[0278] - acyloxyalkyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732;
[0279] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic acid type, such as the product X-22-3701E from Shin-Etsu, or else of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as those produced by Goschmidt under the name S201 and Products sold by S255.
[0280] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: polydimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:
[0281] - 47 and 70 047 series sold by Rhodia Oil or Oil, for example oil 70047V 500 000;
[0282] - Marketed by Rhodia Series of oils;
[0283] - Oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as those with 60 000 mm 2 / s viscosity DC200;
[0284] - From General Electric oils, and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0285] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
[0286] Among this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the polydialkylsiloxanes marketed under the name Abil 9800 and 9801 are products sold as poly(C1-C 20 )Dialkylsiloxane.
[0287] More particularly, the products that can be used according to the invention are mixtures such as:
[0288] - mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethiconol (CTFA) with hydroxyl-terminated chains and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.
[0289] The polyalkylaryl siloxanes are particularly selected from those having a relative humidity in the range of 1×10 -5 Up to 5×10 -2 m 2 / s linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenyl siloxane and polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxane having a viscosity of 1.1777 W / s.
[0290] Among these polyalkylaryl siloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:
[0291] - 70 641 series from Rhodia Oil;
[0292] -From Rhodia 70 Oils of the 633 and 763 series;
[0293] - oil from Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;
[0294] - Silicones from the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
[0295] - Silicones from the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;
[0296] - Certain oils from the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0297] Non-amino silicones which are very particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone), which are in particular liquid and nonvolatile.
[0298] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more aminosilicones.
[0299] The term "aminosilicone" denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0300] The aminosilicones which can be used according to the invention can be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched and preferably have a carbonyl group at 25° C. in the range of 5×10 -6 Up to 2.5m 2 / s, for example 1×10 -5 Up to 1m 2 Preferably, the amino silicone is selected from non-volatile liquid silicones (25° C., 1 atm).
[0301] Preferably, the aminosilicone is selected from the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
[0302] A) a polysiloxane corresponding to formula (I):
[0303]
[0304] wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 g / mol;
[0305] B) aminosilicone corresponding to formula (II):
[0306] R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG2) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a' -R' a' (II)
[0307] in:
[0308] -G are the same or different and indicate a hydrogen atom or a phenyl group, OH, a C1-C8 alkyl group such as a methyl group, or a C1-C8 alkoxy group such as a methoxy group;
[0309] - a and a' may be identical or different and indicate 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one of a and a' is equal to zero,
[0310] -b indicates 0 or 1, especially 1,
[0311] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and
[0312] -R', can be the same or different, expressed as -C q H 2q L is a monovalent group, wherein q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups: -NR"-QN(R")2, -N(R")2, -N + (R”)3A - 、-N + H(R”)2A - 、-N + H2(R”)A - 、-NR”-QN + (R”)H2 A -、-NR”-QN + (R”)2H A - and-NR"-QN + (R”)3A - , wherein R" may be the same or different and indicates hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, such as C1-C 20 Alkyl; Q indicates formula C r H 2r A linear or branched group, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably 2 to 4; and A - denotes a cosmetically acceptable anion, especially a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0313] Preferably, the aminosilicone of formula (II) may be selected from:
[0314] (i) "Trimethylsilylaminodimethicone" silicone corresponding to formula (III):
[0315]
[0316] wherein m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
[0317] (ii) Silicone of the following formula (IV):
[0318]
[0319] in:
[0320] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n indicates a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m indicates a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and
[0321] - R1, R2 and R3 may be the same or different and represent a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R1 to R3 representing an alkoxy group.
[0322] Preferably, the alkoxy group is methoxy.
[0323] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
[0324] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol;
[0325] (iii) Silicones of the following formula (V):
[0326]
[0327] in:
[0328] - p and q are numbers such that the sum of (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p indicates a number from 0 to 999, particularly from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q indicates a number from 1 to 1000, particularly from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and
[0329] - R1 and R2 are different and represent a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, and at least one of the groups R1 or R2 represents an alkoxy group.
[0330] Preferably, the alkoxy group is methoxy.
[0331] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and is more particularly equal to 1:0.95.
[0332] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100 000 g / mol, and in particular from 10 000 to 50 000 g / mol.
[0333] Commercial products containing silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may contain in their composition one or more other aminosilicones having a structure different from that of formula (IV) or (V). Products containing aminosilicones of structure (IV) are marketed by Wacker under the name ADM 652 is marketed. Aminosilicone products containing structure (V) are marketed by Wacker under the name Fluid WR Another aminosilicone containing structure (IV) is marketed by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG Sale.
[0334] When using these aminosilicones, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may contain one or more surfactants. The surfactant may be of any nature, but is preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is generally in the range of 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, especially as aminosilicone of formula (V), a microemulsion is used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, according to the invention, it is possible to use the microemulsion manufactured by Wacker under the name Finish CT 96 or SLM Aminosilicone microemulsion of formula (V) sold;
[0335] (iv) Silicones of the following formula (VI):
[0336]
[0337] in:
[0338] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and especially from 50 to 150, n indicates a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and m indicates a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10; and
[0339] -A indicates a linear or branched alkylene group having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear.
[0340] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol.
[0341] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 emulsion from Dow Corning;
[0342] (v) Silicones of the following formula (VII):
[0343]
[0344] in:
[0345] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and
[0346] -A indicates a straight or branched alkylene group having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.
[0347] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200 000 g / mol.
[0348] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;
[0349] C) aminosilicone corresponding to formula (VIII):
[0350]
[0351] in:
[0352] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C1-C 18 Alkyl or C2-C 18 alkenyl, such as methyl;
[0353] -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group connected to Si via a SiC bond, in particular a C1-C 18 Alkylene or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkyleneoxy;
[0354] -Q - is an anion, such as a halide, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;
[0355] -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
[0356] as well as
[0357] -s indicates an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and specifically from 20 to 50.
[0358] D) Quaternary ammonium silicone of formula (IX):
[0359]
[0360] in:
[0361] - R7 may be the same or different and represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 alkenyl or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl;
[0362] -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group connected to Si via a SiC bond, in particular a C1-C 18 Alkylene or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkyleneoxy;
[0363] - R8 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 an alkenyl group or a -R6-NHCOR7 group;
[0364] -X - is an anion, such as a halide, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; and
[0365] -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and specifically from 5 to 100.
[0366] These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A-0 530 974; mention may in particular be made of the silicone with the following INCI name: Quaternium 80.
[0367] Silicones falling within this category are those sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474;
[0368] E) Aminosilicone of formula (X):
[0369]
[0370] in:
[0371] - R1, R2, R3 and R4 may be the same or different, indicating a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
[0372] -R5 indicates a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
[0373] -n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
[0374] -m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
[0375] - x is selected so that the amine value is in the range of 0.01 to 1 meq / g;
[0376] F)(AB) n A multi-block polyoxyalkylene aminosilicone of the type A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylene block containing at least one amine group.
[0377] The silicone is preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formula:
[0378] [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -R'-N(H)-R-] or otherwise
[0379] [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -]
[0380] in:
[0381] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
[0382] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;
[0383] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;
[0384] -R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
[0385] -R can be the same or different, representing a straight or branched divalent C2-C 12 A hydrocarbon-based group, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R may be the same or different, indicating an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R indicates a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; and
[0386] -R' can be the same or different, representing a straight or branched divalent C2-C 12 A hydrocarbon-based group, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' may be the same or different, indicating an ethylene, a linear or branched propylene, a linear or branched butylene or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R' indicates -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0387] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol %, more particularly 70 to 85 mol %, of the total weight of the silicone.
[0388] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of the copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0389] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000 g / mol.
[0390] Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by the company Momentive.
[0391] G) Aminosilicones of formula (XI) and (XII):
[0392]
[0393] in:
[0394] - R, R' and R" may be the same or different, indicating C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl,
[0395] -A indicates a C3 alkylene group; and
[0396] - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000;
[0397]
[0398] in:
[0399] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;
[0400] - R1 and R2 may be the same or different, preferably the same, indicating a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and
[0401] -A indicates a straight or branched chain alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0402] Preferably, A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. The following divalent groups may be mentioned in particular: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.
[0403] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independent saturated straight-chain alkyl groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; and preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).
[0404] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):
[0405] -x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;
[0406] -y ranges from 1 to 100;
[0407] -A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is selected from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and
[0408] - R1 and R2 are independently saturated straight-chain alkyl groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; in particular chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).
[0409] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may in particular be made of the aminosilicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by the company Momentive.
[0410] h) Polysiloxanes which contain primary amine groups only at one chain end or on side chains and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those of the formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):
[0411]
[0412] H2NCH2CH2CH2-Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O] n -Si(CH3)2C4H9 (XV)
[0413]
[0414] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 1,000 and 55,000.
[0415] As examples of aminosilicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and under the name KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu.
[0416] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 3,000.
[0417] As examples of aminosilicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Geister.
[0418] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 50,000.
[0419] As example of aminosilicone of formula (XVI), mention may be made of aminopropylphenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.
[0420] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise as silicone an aminosilicone corresponding to the following formula (XVIII):
[0421]
[0422] in:
[0423] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;
[0424] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;
[0425] - R"' may be identical or different, preferably identical, and is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radical may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH;
[0426] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms;
[0427] -R" is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
[0428] Preferably, R'', which may be identical or different, is a saturated straight-chain alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, C 13 , tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl; preferably, R"' may be the same or different and is selected from a saturated straight-chain alkyl group having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C 13 , C 14 or C 15 (alone or as a mixture), and also better represents C 13 , C 14 and C 15 mixture.
[0429] Preferably, R''' are identical.
[0430] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms; especially a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- group.
[0431] Preferably, R" is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular a -CH2-CH2- group.
[0432] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII), wherein:
[0433] -n is a number between 50 and 80;
[0434] -m is a number between 1 and 5;
[0435] -R"' is the same and is a saturated straight chain alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0436] -R' is a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms;
[0437] -R" is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0438] Even better, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) wherein:
[0439] -n is a number between 50 and 80;
[0440] -m is a number between 1 and 5;
[0441] -R"' are the same and are saturated straight chain alkyl groups containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms;
[0442] -R' is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- group, and
[0443] -R" is a -(CH2)2- group.
[0444] A most particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may especially be made of the silicone sold by Dow under the name Dowsil 8500 conditioner.
[0445] Preferably, the aminosilicone is selected from the aminosilicones of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI) and / or (XII) defined above, alone or as a mixture.
[0446] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more aminosilicones, better still liquid and non-volatile, in particular chosen from aminosilicones of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI) and / or (XII) as defined above, even better still chosen from aminosilicones of formula (I), (III) and / or (XI) as defined above.
[0447] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises exclusively one or more aminosilicones as silicone; in other words, according to this preference, the composition comprises no (contains 0%) non-aminosilicone.
[0448] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may contain a total content of silicone ranging preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0449] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may contain aminosilicone in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0450] According to the invention, the weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactants and the total content of silicone present in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 7. Advantageously, this weight ratio may range from 7 to 20, in particular from 8 to 15 and even better still from 9 to 13.
[0451] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactants and the total content of aminosilicone present in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 7, better still ranging from 7 to 20, even better still ranging from 8 to 15 and even better still ranging from 9 to 13.
[0452] Solid fatty substances
[0453] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances which may advantageously be chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, butters, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0454] The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at 25° C., 1 atm, i.e. has a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF) or liquid petroleum jelly under the same conditions of temperature and pressure.
[0455] The term "solid fatty substance" means a fatty substance having a melting point at atmospheric pressure (1 atm) greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, better still greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0456] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0457] "Fatty alcohol" means a long-chain fatty alcohol containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylened nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated and are linear or branched and contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, wherein R indicates a linear alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, the alkyl group containing 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms and even better still 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0458] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (monohydric) alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0459] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be selected from the following, alone or as a mixture:
[0460] -Myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);
[0461] - Cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);
[0462] - Stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecyl alcohol);
[0463] -Arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);
[0464] -Behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);
[0465] - wood wax alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);
[0466] -Ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);
[0467] -Mondanol (or 1-octacosanol);
[0468] - Beeswax alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0469] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol, and still better the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.
[0470] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably selected from the group consisting of 26 Carboxylic acid fatty acid and / or C9-C 26 Solid esters of fatty alcohols.
[0471] Preferably, the solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms and a linear or branched saturated monohydric alcohol containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acid may optionally be hydroxylated and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.
[0472] You can also use C4-C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2-C 26 Esters of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydric alcohols.
[0473] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl nonanoate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0474] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from palmitic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, and myristyl myristate; stearic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
[0475] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0476] For the purposes of the present invention, waxes are lipophilic compounds which are solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, have a reversible solid / liquid state change, have a melting point greater than about 40° C. and which can be up to 200° C., and have an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving a substantially opaque, turbid appearance to the composition containing them. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with the oil and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but when returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).
[0477] In particular, the waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0478] Mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fiber or sugar cane wax, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes and wax copolymers obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also esters thereof.
[0479] C2 to C 60 Microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW. Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may especially be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, especially sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Products manufactured or sold, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, especially by Heterene under the name Hest It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name Phytowax Castor by the company Sophim. and The ones that are sold.
[0480] Waxes that can also be used are C 20 To C 40 Alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms). This wax is especially marketed by Koster Keunen under the name Kester Wax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K 82 and Kester Wax K 80 Sale.
[0481] Microwaxes may also be used in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microcrystalline wax, such as that marketed by Micro Powders under the name MicroCare Products sold; synthetic wax microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name MicroEase Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as that sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care and Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes, such as those sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care Products sold; Polyethylene microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name Micropoly and products sold; and polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline wax, such as that sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Microslip and 519 Products for sale.
[0482] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petroleum vaseline, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes, for example cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fiber or sugar cane wax, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, carnauba wax, chrysanthemum wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, or neat flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant flower essence wax sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0483] Fats can also be used as solid fatty substances.
[0484] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat" (also referred to as "paste-like fatty substance") means a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising a liquid portion and a solid portion at a temperature of 25° C. and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Preferably, the fat according to the invention has a melting start temperature above 25° C. and a melting end temperature below 60° C.
[0485] Preferably, the particular fats are of vegetable origin, such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: June 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, Point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0486] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo tallow or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter(Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter(Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter(Kpangnan)(Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter(Coffea arabica), apricot butter(Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter(Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter(Vitis vinifera), avocado butter(Persea gratissima), olive butter(Olea europaea), sweet almond butter(Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter( butter) and sunflower seed butter.
[0487] An example of a preferred fat is shea butter. In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called "kernel" or "nut") of the shea tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% of fatty substances, which have been extracted and generally refined. Shea butter contains fatty acid triglycerides. The fatty acid profile of shea butter is variable, especially depending on the geographical origin of the kernel, the total percentage of stearic acid and oleic acid being very dominant and generally greater than 80% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids.
[0488] The ceramides or ceramide analogs such as glycosylceramides that can be used in the composition according to the invention are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
[0489] The ceramide or its analogues which can be used preferably correspond to the following formula:
[0490]
[0491] in:
[0492] -R1 means derived from C 14 -C 30 A straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of a fatty acid, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the α position or a hydroxyl group in the ω position, which is replaced by a saturated or unsaturated C 16 -C 30 Fatty acid esterification;
[0493] -R2 indicates hydrogen atom, (sugar group) n Group, (Galactosyl) m A group or a sulfogalactosyl group, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
[0494] -R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated C in the α position 15 -C 26 A hydrocarbon-based group which may be composed of one or more C1-C 14 Alkyl substitution;
[0495] It will be appreciated that in the case of natural ceramides or glycosylceramides, R3 may also represent C 15 -C 26 α-hydroxyalkyl, the hydroxyl group is optionally replaced by C 16 -C 30 α-Hydroxy Acid Esterification.
[0496] Preferably, ceramides are used, wherein R1 indicates a ceramide derived from C 14 -C 30A saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group of a fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 indicates -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.
[0497] More particularly preferred ceramides are compounds wherein R1 represents a ceramide derived from C 16 -C 22 A saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group of a fatty acid; R2 indicates a hydrogen atom and R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated straight chain C 15 Group.
[0498] The following compounds can also be used, wherein R1 indicates a compound derived from C 12 -C 22 a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group of a fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 22 A hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.
[0499] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and In particular, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyl sphingosine, N-oleoyl sphingosine, N-palmitoyl sphingosine, N-stearoyl sphingosine, and N-behenoyl sphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucosamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyl sphingosine will be used.
[0500] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0501] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols and one or more solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols.
[0502] Even better still, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances chosen from linear or branched, saturated, preferably linear and saturated (mono)alcohols containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; palmitic acid, C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, myristic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, stearic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters; and mixtures thereof.
[0503] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises non-silicone fatty substances in a total content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and preferably from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0504] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises non-silicone solid fatty substances chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof in a total content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and preferably from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0505] Other Ingredients
[0506] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, which may be present in a proportion ranging from 65% to 98% by weight, better still from 70% to 97% by weight and preferably from 75% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0507] In addition, the composition according to the invention may also contain one or more water-miscible organic solvents. Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethanol, or polyols such as C2-C6, better still C2-C4 diols or triols such as propylene glycol or glycerol. When they are present in the composition according to the invention, the organic solvents generally represent 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0508] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more additives which are different from the compounds according to the invention and among which mention may be made of nonionic surfactants, cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, or mixtures thereof, non-silicone liquid fatty substances, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, vitamins and provitamins (including panthenol), sunscreens, chelating agents, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidulants, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners, sunscreens, pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, preservatives and fillers.
[0509] Of course, the skilled person will carefully select this or these optional additional compounds so that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition according to the invention are not or are not substantially adversely affected by the envisaged additives. The above additives may each be present in an amount generally between 0% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0510] A subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, especially human keratin fibres such as the hair, which comprises applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.
[0511] The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry keratin material or to wet keratin material which has optionally been shampooed.
[0512] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin fibres.
[0513] After an optional leave-on time, which may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes, the keratin fibres may then be rinsed, for example with water, and then dried or air-dried.
[0514] The method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials is preferably a hair conditioning method.
[0515] The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a rinse-off conditioner or a rinse-off mask, but can also be in the form of a leave-in hair product or a hair serum.
[0516] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention but are not limiting in nature.
[0517] In the following examples, unless otherwise stated, all amounts are given as mass percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0518] Example 1
[0519] Compositions A to D according to the invention are prepared from the following ingredients (% AM):
[0520] [Table 1]
[0521]
[0522] A composition is obtained which can be used as a rinse-out hair care product (conditioner).
[0523] These compositions impart good cosmetic properties (conditioning properties) to the hair, especially in terms of smooth feel, detangling and shine; they also impart repair benefits while making the hair shiny.
[0524] Composition A according to the invention was tested against a commercial hair conditioner on damaged hair.
[0525] A panel of test persons, regular users of conditioning hair products for dry, damaged or coloured hair, tested composition A according to the invention, or a commercial hair conditioner, on dry hair, for 2 weeks.
[0526] After using the commercial shampoo, use Composition A (or commercial conditioner) in the normal manner (application, leave-on time, rinse, dry).
[0527] After 2 weeks of use, testers indicated that they agreed / strongly agreed with the performance criteria presented.
[0528] The following results were obtained (% of testers who agreed / strongly agreed with the performance criteria):
[0529] [Table 2]
[0530] Performance Standards A (the present invention) A'(Business) Smooth feel to hair 80% 64% Shiny hair 91% 85% Hair is shiny until next shampooing 94% 83% Easy to untangle 94% 89% Protection from breakage 88% 76% Makes hair stronger and healthier 87% 79%
[0531] It should be noted that for each of the criteria, the composition according to the invention has a clear difference. Thus, it is possible to provide care benefits (detangling, smoothness, shine) and repair benefits (protection from breakage, strong hair) significantly greater than commercially available compositions specifically intended for damaged hair. It also provides the added value of long-lasting shine.
[0532] Example 2
[0533] Composition E according to the invention and comparative composition E' were prepared from the following ingredients (% AM):
[0534] [Table 3]
[0535]
[0536] A composition is obtained which can be used as a rinse-off hair care product (conditioner).
[0537] Evaluation of sediment uniformity
[0538] The compositions were tested on tresses of medium sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) of 1 g and 27 cm in length.
[0539] First, the tresses were cleaned with a standard silicone-free shampoo (DOP Camomile) at a rate of 0.4 g shampoo / g hair. The shampoo was massaged into the tresses to form foam, then left for 15 seconds, followed by a rinsing step with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.).
[0540] Secondly, the composition to be tested is applied to the wet tresses at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair and then, after a dwell time of 5 minutes, rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.).
[0541] The uniformity of the silicone deposition is evaluated on wet hair by measuring the friction on the treated hair tresses along the length of the hair to the ends during squeezing between two rollers moving at a constant speed at the same time at a constant compression.
[0542] The difference in friction between the body of the lock and the end of the lock is determined in order to establish the quality of the deposit. The smaller the difference, the more even the deposit throughout the hair, reflecting a more textured, smooth feel.
[0543] The following results were obtained (mean value of measurements, performed on 6 tresses):
[0544] [Table 4]
[0545] E (the present invention) E'(Comparison) <![CDATA[Difference (F 末端 – F 长度 )]]> 80 140
[0546] The difference in friction between the body and the ends of the tresses measured on wet hair is significantly smaller for the tresses treated with the composition according to the invention.
[0547] Thus, the surface deposit provided by the composition according to the invention appears more uniform and imparts a better smooth feel quality throughout the hair.
[0548] Sensory evaluation
[0549] The test was carried out on tresses of medium sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) of 2.7 g and 27 cm in length. The tresses were pre-cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP Camomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair.
[0550] Each tress was then treated with a conventional repair shampoo (ELSEVE Total Repair 5, L'Oréal Paris) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo was massaged into the tresses to form foam, then left for 15 seconds, followed by a rinsing step with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.).
[0551] Secondly, the composition to be tested is applied to wet hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair and then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.) after a dwell time of 2 minutes. The hair is wrung out and then evaluated while wet. Finally, the tresses are dried with a hair dryer and then evaluated (dry).
[0552] Detangling was evaluated using a comb, while slipperiness and coating were scored based on feel. Scores ranged from 0 (lack of performance) to 5 (maximum performance).
[0553] Evaluation of smoothness: The evaluator takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it through the fingers over the entire length of the lock, as far as the ends. The more uniform the hair is, the more uniform it is from the root to the ends, the fewer bumps it exhibits, the less it catches on the fingers, the better the smoothness.
[0554] Evaluation of the coating: The evaluator takes the lock of hair in his hand, starts from the roots and slides as far as the ends. The more deposit on the fibers, the better the coating.
[0555] Evaluation of detangling: Detangling is evaluated using a comb that the evaluator glides from the roots to the ends of the hair. The easier the comb glides, the better the detangling.
[0556] The following results were obtained:
[0557] [Table 5]
[0558]
[0559] It should be noted that the composition according to the invention comprising anionic surfactants is significantly superior in all criteria tested compared to the composition without anionic surfactants. This superiority manifests itself on wet hair by easier detangling, smoother feeling hair and more coating present, signifying a better transformation of the fiber. On dry hair, the hair looks more improved (more conditioning coating) and softer (smoother feel).
[0560] Example 3
[0561] Composition F according to the invention and comparative composition F' were prepared from the following ingredients (% AM):
[0562] [Table 6]
[0563]
[0564] A composition is obtained which can be used as a rinse-off hair care product (conditioner).
[0565] Deposits on hair
[0566] The compositions were tested on tresses of natural Caucasian hair of 2.7 g and 27 cm in length.
[0567] First, the tresses were cleaned with a standard silicone-free shampoo (DOP Camomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo was massaged into the tresses to form foam, then left for 15 seconds, followed by a rinsing step with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.).
[0568] Secondly, the composition to be tested is applied to wet hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair and then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.) after a dwell time of 2 minutes. Finally, the tresses are dried in an oven at 60° C. for 30 minutes.
[0569] The cycle of applying standard shampoo + composition to be tested + drying in the oven was repeated 4 more times.
[0570] The silicone deposition on the hair was quantified by measuring the mass concentration of elemental silicon on the hair fibers by X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy. The amount of silicon naturally present in untreated hair was subtracted from the measured value obtained on the treated hair (silicon deposition = content measured on treated hair - content measured on untreated hair).
[0571] The following results were obtained (silicon deposits measured by XRF on dry hair treated by multiple applications (×5) of composition F or F′. The values are expressed in μg elemental silicon / g hair):
[0572] [Table 7]
[0573] Silicon deposits F (the present invention) F'(Comparison) average value 251 33 Standard Deviation 50 24
[0574] It should be noted that the composition according to the invention leads to a significantly higher silicone deposit on the hair than the comparative composition, even though it comprises a lower silicone concentration.
[0575] Sensory evaluation
[0576] The test was carried out on tresses of medium sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) of 2.7 g and 27 cm in length. The tresses were pre-cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP Camomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair.
[0577] Each tress was then treated with a conventional repair shampoo (ELSEVE Total Repair 5, L'Oreal Paris) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo was massaged into the tresses to form foam, then left for 15 seconds, followed by a rinsing step with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.).
[0578] Secondly, the composition to be tested is applied to wet hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair and then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.) after a dwell time of 2 minutes. The hair is wrung out and then evaluated while wet. Finally, the tresses are dried with a hair dryer and then evaluated (dry).
[0579] Detangling was assessed using a comb (by 1 assessor) and smoothness was scored by feel (by 4 assessors). The scores ranged from 0 (lack of performance) to 5 (maximum performance).
[0580] The following results were obtained:
[0581] [Table 8]
[0582]
[0583] It should be noted that the composition according to the invention favours detangling and confers performance advantages in terms of smoothness of the hair both in wet and dry conditions which are significantly superior to those of the comparative composition, even though it comprises less silicone.
[0584] Instrumental evaluation of lubricity
[0585] The compositions were tested on tresses of medium sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) of 1 g and 27 cm in length.
[0586] First, the tresses were cleaned with a standard silicone-free shampoo (DOP Camomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo was massaged into the tresses to form foam, then left for 15 seconds, followed by a rinsing step with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.).
[0587] Secondly, the composition to be tested was applied to wet hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair and then, after a dwell time of 5 minutes, rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.).
[0588] The friction of the treated lock of hair is measured along the length of the hair and as far as the end, during its movement between two rollers at a constant speed while squeezing them at a constant compression. A low friction reflects a smoother surface state of the hair.
[0589] The following results were obtained (mean value of measurements, performed on 6 tresses):
[0590] [Table 9]
[0591] Friction (mJ) F (the present invention) F'(Comparison) The average friction 143.4 164.5 Standard Deviation 5.6 6.6
[0592] It should be noted that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce the friction on dry hair compared to the comparative composition, even though it comprises a lower silicone content.
[0593] Therefore, a cationic surfactant / silicone ratio greater than or equal to 7 makes it possible to significantly increase the efficiency of silicone deposition on the hair and to obtain added value as regards sensory and detangling qualities, and also a significant gain in performance in terms of the smoothness criterion of the hair.
[0594] Example 4
[0595] Composition G according to the invention and comparative composition G' were prepared from the following ingredients (% AM):
[0596] [Table 10]
[0597]
[0598] A composition is obtained which can be used as a rinse-out hair care product (conditioner).
[0599] Deposits on hair
[0600] The compositions were tested on tresses of natural Caucasian hair of 2.7 g and 27 cm in length.
[0601] First, the tresses were cleaned with a standard silicone-free shampoo (DOP Camomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo was massaged into the tresses to form foam, then left for 15 seconds, followed by a rinsing step with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.).
[0602] Secondly, the composition to be tested is applied to wet hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair and then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.) after a dwell time of 2 minutes. Finally, the tresses are dried in an oven at 60° C. for 30 minutes.
[0603] The silicone deposition on the hair was quantified by measuring the mass concentration of elemental silicon on the hair fibers by X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy. The amount of silicon naturally present in untreated hair was subtracted from the measured value obtained on the treated hair (silicon deposition = content measured on treated hair - content measured on untreated hair).
[0604] The following results were obtained (silicon deposits measured by XRF on dry hair treated with composition G or G′). The values are expressed in μg elemental silicon / g hair.
[0605] [Table 11]
[0606] G (present invention) G'(Comparison) Silicon deposits 220 194 Standard Deviation 16 61
[0607] It should be noted that the composition according to the invention leads to a greater silicone deposit on the hair than the comparative composition.
[0608] Sensory evaluation
[0609] The test was carried out on tresses of medium sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) of 2.7 g and 27 cm in length. The tresses were pre-cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP Camomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair.
[0610] Each tress was then treated with a conventional repair shampoo (ELSEVE Total Repair 5, L'Oreal Paris) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo was massaged into the tresses to form foam, then left for 15 seconds, followed by a rinsing step with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.).
[0611] Secondly, the composition to be tested is applied to wet hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair and then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.) after a dwell time of 2 minutes. The hair is wrung out and then evaluated while wet. Finally, the tresses are dried with a hair dryer and then evaluated (dry).
[0612] Detangling was evaluated using a comb, while slipperiness and coating were scored based on feel. Scores ranged from 0 (lack of performance) to 5 (maximum performance).
[0613] The following results were obtained:
[0614] [Table 12]
[0615]
[0616] It should be noted that the composition according to the invention comprising an amphoteric surfactant is significantly superior in all the criteria tested compared to the composition without an amphoteric surfactant. This superiority manifests itself on wet hair by easier detangling, smoother feeling hair and more presence of its coating, signifying a better transformation of the fiber. On dry hair, the hair looks more improved (more conditioning coating) and softer (smoother feel).
[0617] Example 5
[0618] Composition H according to the invention and comparative composition H' were prepared from the following ingredients (% AM):
[0619] [Table 13]
[0620]
[0621] A composition is obtained which can be used as a rinse-out hair care product (conditioner).
[0622] Sensory evaluation
[0623] The test was carried out on tresses of medium sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) of 2.7 g and 27 cm in length. The tresses were pre-cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP Camomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair.
[0624] Each tress was then treated with a conventional repair shampoo (ELSEVE Total Repair 5, L'Oreal Paris) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo was massaged into the tresses to form foam, then left for 15 seconds, followed by a rinsing step with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.).
[0625] Secondly, the composition to be tested is applied to wet hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair and then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35° C.) after a dwell time of 2 minutes. The hair is wrung out and then evaluated while wet. Finally, the tresses are dried with a hair dryer and then evaluated (dry).
[0626] Detangling was evaluated using a comb (1 assessor), while slipperiness and coating were scored based on feel (3 assessors). The scores ranged from 0 (lack of performance) to 5 (maximum performance).
[0627] The following results were obtained:
[0628] [Table 14]
[0629]
[0630] It should be noted that the composition according to the invention is significantly superior in all criteria tested compared to the comparative composition.
[0631] It provides greater in-use qualities (ease of detangling) and better cosmetic properties (smooth feel, coating) on wet and dry hair.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, - at least two cationic surfactants that are different from each other, and - one or more silicones, The weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactants and the total content of silicone is greater than or equal to 7.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The cationic surfactant is selected from the following compounds as quaternary ammonium salts: -Compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in: X - is an anion especially selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates. The radicals R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent linear or branched aliphatic radicals comprising 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or aromatic radicals such as aryl or alkylaryl radicals, at least one of the radicals R1 to R4 indicating a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, these aliphatic radicals possibly comprising heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens. - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (III): wherein R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acid, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and X - is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alkyl aryl sulfonates, wherein the alkyl and aryl groups preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts of formula (IV): in R9 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 10 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH2)3, where R 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonates and (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): in: R 15 Selected from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl; R 16 Selected from the group R19-C(O)-; the group R 20 , which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 22 Hydrocarbon-based groups; hydrogen atoms; R 18 Selected from the group R21-C(O)-; the group R 22 , which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group; a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different and be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t may be the same or different and are integers having values from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z may be the same or different and are integers having values from 0 to 10; X - are simple or complex, organic or inorganic anions; The premise is that the sum of x+y+z is from 1 to 15; when x is 0, then R 16 Indicator R 20 ; and when z is 0, then R 18 Indicator R 22 . - fatty amines, and in particular fatty amidoamines, preferably fatty amidoamines of formula (VI): RCONHR"N(R')2 in: -R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C 29 And preferably C7-C 23 Alkyl, either straight chain or branched C5-C 29 And preferably C7-C 23 alkenyl; -R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and -R' may be the same or different and represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl.
3. A composition according to the preceding claim, comprising at least one cationic surfactant chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof, said formula being as defined in claim 2; better still from those of the above formula (II) or (V) and mixtures thereof; even better still from those of the above formula (V).
4. A composition according to the preceding claim, comprising at least two cationic surfactants, both chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof, said formula being those as defined in claim 2; better still, at least one of said cationic surfactants is chosen from those of formula (V) above and at least another of said cationic surfactants is chosen from those of formula (II) and / or (VI) above.
5. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl group preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms; Even better, the composition comprises: (i) one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl group preferably has 14 to 18 carbon atoms; and (ii) one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of: (iii) tetraalkylammonium salts, especially dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetylammonium salts; preferably the chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of these compounds; and / or (iib) an amidoamine of formula (VI) RCONHR"N(R')2 as defined above.
6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising: (i) one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl group preferably has 14 to 18 carbon atoms; and (ii) one or more cationic surfactants chosen from tetraalkylammonium salts, especially dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, wherein the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetylammonium salts; preferably the chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of these compounds. Even better, the composition comprises: - one or more cationic surfactants selected from the group consisting of salts, especially chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium and mixtures thereof; and - one or more cationic surfactants chosen from the salts, especially chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates, of behentrimonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof.
7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising said cationic surfactant in a total amount ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional anionic surfactants, which are preferably selected, either individually or as a mixture, from: -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfates; -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates; preferably containing 1 to 20 ethyleneoxy units; -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates; -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates; -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; -(C6-C 24 ) acyl isethionate and preferably (C 12 -C 18 ) acyl isethionates; -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl sarcosinates; -(C6-C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12 -C 20 ) alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethyleneoxy groups; -Polyoxyalkylene (C6-C 24 ) alkylamidoether carboxylic acids and their salts, especially those comprising 2 to 50 alkyleneoxy groups and especially ethyleneoxy groups; -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acylglutamate; -C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acyl glycinates; In particular, in the form of an acid or in the form of an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt, an ammonium salt or an amino alcohol salt; Preferably selected from C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfate, preferably C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates; these surfactants are more particularly in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; and also mixtures thereof.
9. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, comprising one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still (strictly) less than 1% by weight, in particular capable of ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants, which, alone or as a mixture, are in particular selected from (C8-C 20 ) alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkyl sulfobetaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaine and (C8-C 20 ) alkylamido (C6-C8) alkyl sulfonate; - optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives having the following corresponding structures (A), (B) and (C): (A)R a -CONHCH2CH2-N + (R b )(R c )-CH2COO - ,M + ,X - (I) in: -R a denotes an acid R derived from preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil a C of COOH 10 To C 30 alkyl or alkenyl, or heptyl, nonyl or undecyl; -R b represents β-hydroxyethyl; and -R c represents carboxymethyl; -M + represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and -X - represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as those selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl-sulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or alternatively, M + and X - does not exist; (B)R a' -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') in: -B represents a group -CH2CH2OX'; -B' represents the group -(CH2) z Y', where z = 1 or 2; -X' represents a group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; -Y' represents a group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or a group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; -Z' represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; -R a' represents the acid R preferably present in coconut kernel oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil a' -COOH C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl, or alkyl, especially C 17 Groups, and isomeric forms thereof, or unsaturated C 17 Group. (C)R a” -NHCH(Y”)-(CH2) n CONH(CH2) n' -N(R d )(R e ) in: -Y" represents a group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or a group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z"; -R d and R e independently of one another represent a C1 to C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group; -Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; -R a” represents the acid R preferably present in coconut kernel oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil a” -COOH C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl; -n and n' indicate an integer ranging from 1 to 3 independently of each other. Preferred (C8-C 20 ) alkyl betaine such as cocoyl betaine, (C8-C 20 ) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine and mixtures thereof, and salts, especially sodium salts, of compounds of formula (C) such as diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate.
11. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein The amphoteric surfactants are present in a total amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still (strictly) less than 1% by weight, and in particular can range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to claim 1, comprising a total content of surfactants chosen from anionic and amphoteric surfactants ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and better still from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more silicones chosen from aminosilicones, non-aminosilicone and mixtures thereof; in particular chosen from non-volatile liquid non-aminosilicone, non-volatile liquid aminosilicone and mixtures thereof.
14. The composition according to claim 1, comprising one or more silicones selected from the group consisting of the following aminosilicones, either alone or as a mixture: A) a polysiloxane corresponding to formula (I): wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 g / mol; B) aminosilicone corresponding to formula (II): R' a G 3-a -Yes(OSiG2) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a' -R' a' (II) in: -G are the same or different and indicate a hydrogen atom or a phenyl group, OH, a C1-C8 alkyl group such as a methyl group, or a C1-C8 alkoxy group such as a methoxy group; - a and a' may be identical or different and represent 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a and a' is equal to zero, -b indicates 0 or 1, especially 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly indicates a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly indicates a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and -R' can be the same or different, expressed as -C q H 2q L is a monovalent group, wherein q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups: -NR"-QN(R")2, -N(R")2, -N + (R”)3A - 、-N + H(R”)2A - 、-N + H2(R”)A - 、-NR”-QN + (R”)H2 A - 、-NR”-QN + (R”)2H A - and-NR"-QN + (R”)3A - , wherein R" may be the same or different and indicates hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, such as C1-C 20 Alkyl; Q indicates formula C r H 2r A linear or branched group, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably 2 to 4; and A - means a cosmetically acceptable anion, especially a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide; The aminosilicone of formula (II) is preferably selected from: (i) "Trimethylsilylaminodimethicone" silicone corresponding to formula (III): wherein m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; (ii) Silicones of the following formula (IV): in: - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n indicates a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m indicates a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - R1, R2 and R3 may be the same or different and represent a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R1 to R3 representing an alkoxy group; (iii) Silicones of the following formula (V): in: - p and q are numbers such that the sum of (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p indicates a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q indicates a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - R1 and R2 are different and represent a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R1 or R2 represents an alkoxy group; (iv) Silicones of the following formula (VI): in: - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and especially from 50 to 150, n indicates a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and m indicates a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10; and -A indicates a straight-chain or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms; the group is preferably straight-chain; (v) Silicones of the following formula (VII): in: - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly indicates a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly indicates a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and -A indicates a straight-chain or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms; the group is preferably branched. C) aminosilicone corresponding to formula (VIII): in: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C1-C 18 Alkyl or C2-C 18 alkenyl, such as methyl; -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group connected to Si via a SiC bond, in particular a C1-C 18 Alkylene or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkyleneoxy; -Q - is an anion, such as a halide, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; -r represents the average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; as well as -s indicates an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and specifically from 20 to 50. D) Quaternary ammonium silicone of formula (IX): in: - R7 may be the same or different and represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 alkenyl or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl; -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group connected to Si via a SiC bond, in particular a C1-C 18 Alkylene or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkyleneoxy; - R8 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 an alkenyl group or a -R6-NHCOR7 group; -X - is an anion, such as a halide, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; and -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and specifically from 5 to 100. E) Aminosilicone of formula (X): in: - R1, R2, R3 and R4 may be the same or different, indicating a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, -R5 indicates a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, -n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, -m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is selected so that the amine value ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g; F)(AB) n A multi-block polyoxyalkylene aminosilicone of the type A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylene block comprising at least one amine group; the silicone is preferably composed of repeating units having the following general formula: [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -R'-N(H)-R-] or otherwise [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-R-N(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -] in: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000; -R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; -R can be the same or different, indicating a straight or branched divalent C2-C 12 A hydrocarbon-based group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R may be the same or different, indicating an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R indicates a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; and -R' can be the same or different, indicating a straight or branched divalent C2-C 12 A hydrocarbon-based group, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' may be the same or different, indicating an ethylene, a linear or branched propylene, a linear or branched butylene or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R' indicates -CH(CH3)-CH2-. G) Aminosilicones of formula (XI) and (XII): in: - R, R' and R" may be the same or different, indicating C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl, -A indicates a C3 alkylene group; and - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000; in: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; - R1 and R2 may be identical or different, preferably identical, indicating a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and -A indicates a straight or branched chain alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms. h) polysiloxanes which comprise primary amine groups only at one chain end or on side chains and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those of the formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): H2NCH2CH2CH2-Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O] n -Si(CH3)2C4H9 (XV) In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 1,000 and 55,000. In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 3,000. In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 50,000. I) an aminosilicone corresponding to the following formula (XVIII): in: - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5; - R"' may be identical or different, preferably identical, and are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH; - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms; -R" is a straight or branched divalent alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms. The aminosilicone, alone or as a mixture, is preferably chosen from the aminosilicone of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI) and / or (XII) defined above, even better still from the aminosilicone of formula (I), (III) and / or (XI) as defined above.
15. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising said silicone in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein The weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactants and the total content of silicone present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 7 to 20, especially from 8 to 15 and even better still from 9 to 13.
17. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances, advantageously chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, lipids, ceramides and mixtures thereof; better still chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; even better still chosen from linear or branched, saturated, preferably linear and saturated (mono)alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; palmitic acid, C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, myristic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, stearic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters; and mixtures thereof.
18. A method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, especially human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims.
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