Binder for powder cosmetic compositions

Abstract

A powdered cosmetic composition comprises a particulate phase and a binder sub-composition. The binder sub-composition consists of a viscous softener, a non-viscous softener, a triglyceride fatty acid, and one or more specific waxes. The binder sub-composition is particularly suitable for stabilizing pearlescent pigments and metallic pigments. The composition is stable, has a cream-like texture, and is suitable for long-term makeup, while providing true color, excellent color compensation, and skin conditioning.

Description

Field of the Invention

[0001] The present disclosure relates generally to powdered cosmetic compositions for skin and hair. More particularly, the present disclosure relates to powdered eye makeup compositions comprising metallic, pearlescent or other color effect pigments. Background Art

[0002] In the cosmetics field, pearlescent pigments produce interference effects that depend on the lighting and viewing angle. For example, pearlescent pigments can produce deep luster and brilliance when applied to the skin surface. The appearance imparted by pearlescent pigments is considered aesthetically pleasing, attractive and pleasing to the senses. Typical pearlescent pigments are platelet particles composed of mica coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide. The thickness of the coating varies, which produces a range of refractive indices and various visual effects. When applied to the skin, the particle size will also affect the feel of the cosmetic. Roughly speaking, pearlescent pigments in the range of 1-15 μm give a velvety feel and matte glitter. As the pigment size increases slightly (5-25 μm), the feel becomes more silky and the visual effect is brighter and smoother. As the pigment size increases further (about 50 μm), a glittering appearance appears. When the pigment size increases to at least about 500 μm, this glittering effect becomes more and more significant.

[0003] Cosmetic metallic pigments are very thin platelet-like particles typically made from borosilicate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, and mica. Light reflects from these pigments, but the amount of light perceived by the eye depends greatly on the viewing angle. Metallic pigments provide sparkle and shine. The exact behavior depends on the size and shape of the metal particles.

[0004] Pressed powders are a type of delivery system for metallic and pearlescent pigments. Pressed powder compositions typically include a particulate phase and a binder phase. The particulate phase can include various dry powders and pigments. Typically, the binder phase can be dry or liquid, but the present invention utilizes a liquid binder system. Liquid binder systems comprising natural oils, esters, and softeners provide lubricity, buffering, and film-forming capabilities. Both natural oils and softeners are excellent pigment dispersants that provide great slip, spreading capabilities, and improved makeup retention. Some oils enhance skin adhesion, while other oils help provide a silky-smooth feel to the powder. In short, liquid binder systems improve powder compressibility while reducing dust, increasing the finish, and providing a silky smooth finish on the skin. However, even with a liquid binder system, pressed powder compositions are generally difficult to stabilize. This is especially true when the concentration of large particle pigments is too high. At a certain critical point, the particulate phase cannot fully absorb the liquid binder. This large particle pigment concentration limit limits the extent of the optical effect that can be obtained.

[0005] In pressed powder applications, attempts have been made to use synthetic waxes as stabilizers. These synthetic waxes include, but are not limited to, polyolefin waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, montan waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite waxes, and mixtures thereof. However, synthetic waxes tend to be dusty and do not provide the necessary adhesion to stabilize compositions containing relatively high concentrations of large metallic or pearlescent pigments. Additionally, glitter products tend to have little staying power on the skin. To date, satisfactory results have not been obtained, and there remains a need for stabilizers that are effective in stabilizing metallic or pearlescent pigments in pressed powder compositions.

[0006] Purpose of the Invention

[0007] The main object of the present invention is to provide a binder for powdered cosmetic compositions, especially powdered cosmetic compositions containing metal and pearlescent pigments. Summary of the invention

[0008] The present invention describes a binder subcomposition for use in a binder phase of a powdered cosmetic, particularly a pressed powder composition. The binder subcomposition consists of one or more viscous softeners, one or more non-viscous softeners, one or more triglyceride fatty acids, and one or more flower waxes. The binder subcomposition is preferably used in a pressed cosmetic composition containing metal and pearlescent pigments. The subcomposition is capable of stabilizing metal and pearlescent particles to prevent dusting. The pressed powder composition according to the present invention utilizing the binder subcomposition has a creamy texture and is suitable for long-lasting makeup (flexible, water-resistant, stain-resistant, and anti-flaking). The composition provides true color, excellent color compensation, and skin conditioning.

[0009] definition

[0010] "Comprising" and the like mean that the list of elements may not be limited to those explicitly listed.

[0011] "Consisting of" and the like mean that a list of elements is limited to those explicitly listed.

[0012] Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts or ratios of materials or reaction conditions, physical properties of materials and / or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about".

[0013] As used herein, the terms "stable" and "stability" mean that the chemical state, physical uniformity and / or color of the composition does not substantially change when the temperature of the composition is varied from about 1°C to about 40°C over a period of at least six months.

[0014] The term "powder" as used herein includes fine and coarse powders, flakes, crystalline flakes, platelets, spherical particles, precipitates and other solid particulate materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0015] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a particulate phase and a binder phase.

[0016] Microparticle Phase

[0017] The particulate phase comprises various cosmetically acceptable powder ingredients and pigments, especially one or more pearlescent and / or metallic pigments. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the particulate phase comprises one or more pearlescent and / or metallic pigments. These pigments will typically have a diameter (or other characteristic size) in the range of about 0.1 μm to about 500 μm.

[0018] Adhesive Phase

[0019] The adhesive phase comprises an adhesive subcomposition, which is composed of one or more viscous emollients, one or more non-viscous emollients, one or more triglyceride fatty acids, and one or more flower waxes. The adhesive phase may also contain any cosmetically acceptable liquid ingredient that does not interfere with the function of the adhesive subcomposition.

[0020] Sticky and non-sticky softeners

[0021] The dynamic viscosity of a liquid is a measure of the ability of a liquid to resist deformation for a given shear rate. At the macroscopic level, dynamic viscosity is resistance to flow. The binder subcomposition of the present invention comprises one or more viscous softeners and one or more non-viscous softeners. A non-viscous softener is a liquid that exhibits little or no resistance to flow. We define a non-viscous softener as having a dynamic viscosity of less than about 100 mPa·s, more preferably less than about 50 mPa·s. For example, octyldodecyl lactate (INCI name) is a highly polar liquid ester characterized by a dynamic viscosity of about 43 mPa·s. Octyldodecyl lactate has been shown to be useful in embodiments of the present invention and can be obtained from Nisshin Oillio Group as Cosmol-13. In contrast, a viscous softener useful in the present invention will have a dynamic viscosity between about 500 mPa·s and 1000 mPa·s. For example, tridecyl trimellitate (INCI name) is a liquid softener ester having a dynamic viscosity of about 860 mPa·s. Tridecyl trimellitate is available from Vantage Specialty Ingredients (NJ) as Liponate TM TDTM obtained.

[0022] Triglyceride fatty acids

[0023] The binder subcomposition comprises one or more C18-C36 triglyceride fatty acids. Triglyceride fatty acids are esters derived from glycerol and three fatty acids. In the compositions of the present invention, the triglyceride fatty acids act to soften the wax and reduce crystallinity. In some embodiments of the present invention, glyceryl tribehenate (a triglyceride of behenic (C22) acid) is preferred. Glyceryl tribehenate is available, for example, from Croda as Syncrowax TM HRC was obtained in the form of a non-crystalline paste with a melting point between about 60°C and 65°C.

[0024] Flower wax

[0025] Flower waxes are solid, aromatic plant waxes obtained during the production of floral concretes and absolutes. Flower waxes are composed of natural waxes and aromatic compounds present in the plants from which they are derived. Flower waxes include, but are not limited to, lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), black currant, blue lotus, cassava (Acacia analbata), chamomile, clary sage, helichrysum (Helichydrum angustifolium), geranium, jasmine, mimosa, nutmeg, orange, rose, tuberose, violet, and mixtures thereof. Preferred flower waxes comprise a mixture of C4-C50 hydrocarbons having a characteristic melting point range of about 30°C to 60°C (86°F-140°F). Longer chain length waxes tend to be too hard for the present invention.

[0026] Optional Ingredients

[0027] The compressed powder cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally include various cosmetically acceptable ingredients for known beauty or skin care benefits, provided that the ingredients are compatible with the compressed powder product form. The optional ingredients may be in the particulate phase, the binding phase, or both. In fact, any non-particulate ingredients (i.e., liquids, pastes) must be added to the liquid binding phase. When present, the total amount of all optional ingredients will be in the range of about 0.1 % by weight to about 20 % by weight of the total compressed powder cosmetic composition. Preferred embodiments of the present invention do not include talc and silicone.

[0028] Optional ingredients include, but are not limited to, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, vitamins, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatory agents, analgesics, anesthetics, anti-acne agents, antimicrobials, antibacterial agents, anti-yeast agents, antifungals, antivirals, anti-dandruff agents, anti-dermatitis agents, antipruritics, antiemetics, anti-hyperkeratolytic agents, anti-allergic agents, preservatives, anti-dry skin agents, antipsoriatic agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-asthma agents, sunscreens, antihistamines, depigmenting agents, wound healing agents, corticosteroids, tanning agents, moisturizers, lubricants, sequestering agents, medicaments, humectants, pH adjusters, chelating agents, emulsifiers, surfactants, thickeners and hormones.

[0029] Example

[0030] Reference standard for comparison

[0031] In the following examples, test samples were prepared according to the pressed powder eye shadow formula shown in Table 1.

[0032]

[0033] 1. Nylon-12 microspheres (Kobo Products, Inc.).

[0034] 2.100% polymethyl methacrylate spherical powder.

[0035] 3.100% magnesium myristate.

[0036] 4. 40.0%-50.0% mica substrate, 50.0%-60.0% iron oxide coating, (EMD Performance Materials); 10-60 μm.

[0037] 5. Calcium sodium borosilicate / silicon dioxide / titanium dioxide (CI 77891) / tin oxide (BASF); 27-128 μm.

[0038] 6. Caprylyl glycol / phenoxyethanol / hexylene glycol (Hampford Research).

[0039] 7. Caprylic / capric triglyceride / polyhydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid / lecithin / polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (Applechem, Inc.).

[0040] Typical conventional binder phases are shown in Table 2.

[0041]

[0042] However, when this binder phase was incorporated into the eyeshadow of Table 1, the binder was not absorbed by the powder ingredients and liquid oozed from the pan corners when pressed in the pan. The resulting cake was too hard, had broken corners, exhibited glossing and poor color compensation. Clearly, a different kind of binder was needed.

[0043] The four essential ingredients constituting the binder subcomposition according to the present invention are shown in Table 3. Table 3 shows the relative percentages of a binder subcomposition that gave excellent results, performing well in terms of compressibility, stability, drop test, overall appearance, texture and color compensation. Eyeshadows according to the formula shown in Table 1 with the binder phase shown in Table 3 constitute standards (controls) for comparing variations of the binder subcomposition. Two optional liquid ingredients are included in the binder phase.

[0044]

[0045]

[0046] 1. Behenic acid, 1,2,3-propanetriol ester (Croda, Inc.)

[0047] 2. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate / Tribehenin / Ceramide 2 / PEG-10 Phytosterol / Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 (Sederma)

[0048] Example

[0049] In the following examples, only the binder phase is shown, the complete formulation is understood from Table 1. The only difference between the individual test samples is the concentration of the ingredients that make up the binder sub-composition shown in Table 3. The concentration of each ingredient is shown as a percentage of the binder phase. One-fourth of this amount is the concentration as a percentage of the complete formulation shown in Table 1. Drop test data was collected by dropping a disk of pressed powder from a height of 9 to 15 inches onto a specified surface until it broke.

[0050] Example 1

[0051] By varying the content of tridecyl trimellitate and varying the amount of octyldodecyl lactate while keeping everything else constant, pressed powders were prepared with the binder phase shown in Table 4. All test powders were pressed using the same equipment.

[0052]

[0053]

[0054] Example 2

[0055] Pressed powders were prepared with the binder phase shown in Table 5 by varying the content of tridecyl trimellitate and balancing the other ingredients (except Dermaxyl, which was limited in use) in appropriate amounts.

[0056]

[0057]

[0058] Observations from Examples 1 and 2:

[0059] Higher levels of tridecyl trimellitate resulted in increased color compensation and a more creamy powdery texture. This occurred whether the percentage of octyldodecyl lactate was held constant or varied in proportion to tridecyl trimellitate. We conclude that in some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the binder phase will contain one or more viscous emollients in an amount of about 70% to about 85% of the total weight of the binder phase (or about 17.5% to about 21.25% of the total weight of the powdered cosmetic composition).

[0060] Example 3

[0061] Pressed powders were prepared with the binder phase shown in Table 6 by varying the content of octyldodecyl lactate and varying the amount of tridecyl trimellitate while keeping everything else constant.

[0062]

[0063]

[0064]

[0065]

[0066] Observations from Example 3:

[0067] When octyldodecyl lactate was in the range of about 5% to 14% by weight of the binder phase, the results were comparable to the standard. Outside this range, the results were unacceptable. We conclude that in some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the binder phase will contain one or more non-sticky emollients in a total amount of about 5% to about 14% by weight of the total binder phase (or about 1.25% to about 3.50% by weight of the total powdered cosmetic composition).

[0068] Example 4

[0069] Pressed powders were prepared with the binder phase shown in Table 7 by varying the content of triglyceride fatty acid (Syncrowax HR-C) and varying the amount of tridecyl trimellitate, while keeping everything else constant.

[0070]

[0071]

[0072] Observations from Example 4:

[0073] We conclude that in some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the binder phase will contain one or more triglyceride fatty acids in an amount of about 2.0% to 2.5% by weight of the total binder phase (or about 0.50% to about 0.63% by weight of the total powdered cosmetic composition). When the concentration of the triglyceride fatty acid is outside this range, the quality of the resulting compressed powder composition is insufficient compared to the standard.

[0074] Example 5

[0075] Pressed powders were prepared with the binder phase shown in Table 8 by varying the content of lavender wax and changing the amount of tridecyl trimellitate appropriately, and keeping everything else constant.

[0076]

[0077]

[0078]

[0079] Observations from Example 5:

[0080] Test samples with 10% or more lavender wax experienced fragmentation when pressed. Test samples with 2% or less lavender wax were unacceptable compared to the standard. The performance of the test samples with 3%-9% lavender wax was similar to the standard. We conclude that in some embodiments of the present invention, the preferred amount of lavender wax ranges from about 3% to about 9% of the binder phase (or about 0.75% to about 2.25% of the total weight of the powdered cosmetic composition). Most preferably, it is about 4% to about 5% based on the total weight of the binder phase (or about 1% to about 1.25% of the total weight of the powdered cosmetic composition).

[0081] Example 6

[0082] We wondered if flower waxes other than lavender wax, which has a melting point of about 35°C, could be used in the binder subcomposition. Pressed powders (Trials 1-6) were prepared with the binder phase shown in Table 9 by replacing the lavender wax in the standard binder phase (Table 3) with various other flower waxes having a melting point range of about 30°C to 60°C (86°F-140°F). Non-flower wax ozokerite was included for comparison (Trial 7). Ozokerite is a hydrocarbon wax derived from a mineral or petroleum source. We used microcrystalline waxes that melt in the range between 70°C and 97°C.

[0083]

[0084]

[0085]

[0086] Observations from Example 6:

[0087] The performance of Tests 1-6 was comparable to the standard with lavender wax. The performance of Test 7 was unacceptable. The cake was too hard and glazing occurred. The corners broke when pressed. We conclude that in some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the binder phase will comprise one or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon flower waxes having a melting point range between 30°C and 60°C.

[0088] Example 7

[0089] In this example, we removed all wax components from the standard binder subcomposition (Table 3) and varied the amount of tridecyl trimellitate.

[0090]

[0091] 1. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate / Tribehenin / Ceramide 2 / PEG-10 Phytosterol / Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 (Sederma)

[0092] Observations from Example 7:

[0093] Incorporating the binder phase of Table 10 into the base formulation (Table 1) produced an unacceptable, dusty, crumbly cake.

[0094] Example 8

[0095] Table 11 shows the results when softeners of different viscosities were used instead of tridecyl trimellitate (viscosity - 859.4 mPa·s).

[0096]

[0097]

[0098]

[0099] 1. C8-10 fatty acid C12-18-alkyl esters (INCI name: Coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / caprate) (BASF)

[0100] 2. Diglyceryl triisostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate) (Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.)

[0101] 3. Poly(oxyethylene-1,2-ethanediyl), α,α',α"-1,2,3-propanetriyl tri[ω-hydroxy-,2-hydroxypropionate (INCI name: Glyceryl Polyoxyethylene Ethyl Lactate) (ALZO, International)

[0102] 4.(Surfatech Corp)

[0103] Observations from Example 8:

[0104] When tridecyl trimellitate (viscosity = 859.4 mPa·s) was replaced with a softener having a dynamic viscosity several orders of magnitude higher or lower, the resulting adhesive subcompositions performed poorly. TM The performance of 43V (448mPa·s) was comparable to the control in some aspects, and Dermol TM The performance of L45 (900 mPa·s) was even better. We conclude that in some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the viscous softener component of the binder subcomposition should have a dynamic viscosity between about 500 and 1000 mPa·s.

[0105] Example 9

[0106] The present invention relates to a composition applied to the surface of the skin. We have discussed the benefits of our binder subcomposition in pressed powder eye shadow. However, the binder subcomposition according to the present invention can be used in a variety of other cosmetics. For example, a rouge composition using a standard binder subcomposition was formed by pressing at 300 psi. The aesthetics were acceptable, and in the drop test, the rouge dropped four drops. By pressing at 400 psi, a face powder composition using a standard binder subcomposition was formed. The aesthetics were acceptable, and in the drop test, the face powder withstood two drops. In summary, the binder formula can be pressed with different pan sizes, adjusting the pressure to ensure that the pressed formula passes the drop test without compromising the aesthetics of the product. In contrast to the pressed powder form, the loose powder composition is prepared by reducing the binder phase from 25% to about 7% of the total loose powder composition, wherein the pearl particles are appropriately changed. The aesthetics are acceptable. Our observations lead us to conclude that the binder phase according to the present invention can be used in powdered cosmetics at a concentration of about 7% to about 25% of the total powdered cosmetic composition.

[0107] Example 10

[0108] In the microparticle phase, the concentration of a relatively large pearlescent pigment (Glassmira OM24) was increased, and a relatively small pearlescent pigment (Syncrystal Almond) was varied moderately. All else was kept constant.

[0109]

[0110] 1. Nylon-12 microspheres (Kobo Products, Inc.).

[0111] 2.100% polymethyl methacrylate spherical powder.

[0112] 3.100% magnesium myristate.

[0113] 4. Synthetic fluorphlogopite coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxide (free flowing powder) 20-25 μm.

[0114] 5. Sodium calcium aluminum silicate, iron (III) oxide, silicon dioxide (pearlescent pigment 20-500μm).

[0115] 6. Caprylyl glycol / phenoxyethanol / hexylene glycol (Hampford Research).

[0116] 7. Caprylic / capric triglyceride / polyhydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid / lecithin / polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (Applechem, Inc.).

[0117] Observations from Example 10:

[0118] In test 4 (conventional binder phase), the material could not be pressed into a cake. Liquid spilled out on all sides of the dish, indicating that the powder could not absorb the conventional binder even at the lowest tested concentration due to the presence of large pearl particles. In contrast, using the binder subcomposition according to the invention, a cake could be pressed even when the concentration of large pearl-like particles was as high as 25.2% by weight of the total powdered cosmetic composition.

[0119] We describe a powdered cosmetic composition comprising a particulate phase and a binder phase. The binder phase comprises a binder subcomposition. The binder subcomposition is particularly useful for stabilizing pearlescent and metallic pigments. The composition is stable, has a creamy texture, and is suitable for long-lasting makeup while providing true color, excellent color compensation, and skin conditioning. While particular embodiments of the invention have been illustrated and described, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that numerous other changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended that the appended claims cover all such changes and modifications within the scope of the invention.

Claims

1. A powdered cosmetic composition comprising a particulate phase and a binding phase, wherein: The particulate phase comprises up to 25% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition of one or more cosmetically acceptable pearlescent and / or metallic pigments, The binder phase comprises a binder subcomposition, the binder subcomposition consisting of: 17.5% to 21.25% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition of one or more viscous softeners, the viscous softeners having a dynamic viscosity between 500 mPa·s and 1000 mPa·s; 1.25% to 3.5% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition of one or more non-sticky softeners, the non-sticky softeners having a dynamic viscosity of less than 100 mPa·s; 0.50% to 0.63% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition of one or more C18-C36 triglyceride fatty acids; 0.75% to 2.25% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition of one or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon flower waxes having a melting point range between 30°C and 60°C.

2. A powdered cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the particulate phase comprises one or more types of particulate matter, the particulate matter being characterized by a size ranging from 0.1 μm to 500 μm.

3. The powdery cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the cosmetic composition is a compressed powdered chemical.

4. The powdered cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more viscous softeners is tridecyl trimellitate.

5. The powdered cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more non-sticky emollients is octyldodecyl lactate.

6. The powdered cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more C18-C36 triglyceride fatty acids is glyceryl tribehenate.

7. The powdered cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon flower waxes is lavender wax.

8. The powdered cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising 0.1% to 20% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition of one or more cosmetically acceptable ingredients.

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