Anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The present invention discloses an anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation and a preparation method thereof, comprising the following components: ginseng fermentation extract, grape seed fermentation extract, moisturizer, thickener, emulsifier, fruit acid, astaxanthin microspheres, antioxidant, and water. The present invention can effectively fight free radicals, reduce skin wrinkles, and delay skin aging through the synergistic effect of ginseng fermentation extract and grape seed fermentation extract with each component, and has good anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing abilities.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular to anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Skin aging is a phenomenon that will inevitably occur during the aging process. Its main characteristics are that the skin becomes dry, dark circles appear, elasticity gradually loses, pigmentation occurs, sagging occurs, and wrinkles grow. The formation of skin aging is affected by many factors, which can be generally divided into two categories: endogenous oxidative damage and exogenous oxidative damage. Endogenous oxidative damage mainly covers metabolic disorders, changes in genetic material, and damage to cells caused by free radicals. Exogenous oxidative damage mainly includes the effects of light, chemistry, physics, and mechanics. Among exogenous oxidative damage, ultraviolet rays cause the greatest degree of damage, which is photoaging. Photoaging is caused by the superposition of damage caused by ultraviolet radiation and endogenous damage. It is manifested by damage to epidermal keratin, a decrease in the amount of skin elastic collagen, an increase in metalloproteinases, inflammation in the skin, and reduced cell activity and function, which eventually causes the skin to become loose, appear aged, and produce wrinkles and spots.

[0003] The invention patent of CN113768862A discloses an anti-wrinkle composition and its preparation method and application, which combines and compounds Bonat Spirulina extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, and dipeptide diaminobutyryl benzylamide diacetate, and the effect achieved is better than that of using them alone or in simple combination, and can improve skin elasticity and firmness, and reduce fine lines. The invention patent of CN110123705A discloses a moisturizing anti-wrinkle composition and skin care products, which use anti-aging ingredients to promote the production of hyaluronic acid, enhance skin elasticity, increase the synthesis of collagen and elastic fibers, promote cell activity, reduce muscle contraction, and have significant moisturizing and anti-wrinkle effects. The effect is short-lived, obvious and lasting. However, the components in the above patents may have poor antioxidant capacity and the final product is not resistant to storage. Summary of the invention

[0004] In view of the above-mentioned defects of the prior art, the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide an anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation with good stability and good absorbability.

[0005] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides an anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation. The composition has good stability and can effectively fight free radicals, reduce skin wrinkles, and delay skin aging.

[0006] In order to achieve the above-mentioned object of the invention, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

[0007] An anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation comprises the following components: in parts by weight, 15-30 parts of ginseng fermentation extract, 11-32 parts of grape seed fermentation extract, 8-15 parts of moisturizer, 3-5 parts of thickener, 1-2 parts of emulsifier, 6-10 parts of fruit acid, 3-8 parts of astaxanthin, 1-2 parts of antioxidant and 80-100 parts of water.

[0008] Ginseng fermented extract has many benefits in anti-aging, nourishing and repairing the skin. It can enhance the skin barrier function, protect the stratum corneum through saponins; promote collagen synthesis, stimulate fibroblasts with ginseng polysaccharides; improve uneven skin tone, regulate melanin metabolism; play an anti-inflammatory role, inhibit the release of inflammatory mediators; and has antioxidant properties, scavenging free radicals and delaying aging. Grape seed fermented extract also has significant advantages. It has strong antioxidant capacity, and proanthocyanidins can efficiently scavenge free radicals; it can stimulate collagen production and prevent abnormal cross-linking; it has a moisturizing effect, locking in moisture with the help of amino acids and minerals; it has anti-inflammatory properties and relieves skin inflammation; it also has whitening and spot-lightening effects, scavenging free radicals and hindering the formation of melanin, promoting cell division and proliferation, and keeping the skin young and healthy.

[0009] Preferably, the preparation method of the ginseng fermentation extract is: drying the ginseng, crushing it, sieving it, adding water and then boiling and extracting it for 1-3 hours; filtering, and concentrating the filtrate under reduced pressure to a relative density of 1.05-1.2 g / cm 3 , obtain an extract; mix the extract, brewer's yeast, Aspergillus oryzae and water in a mass ratio of 15-30:3-6:1-3:61-81, ferment and culture at 25-35°C for 3-7 days, during which the pH is controlled between 5.5-6.0; cool to room temperature, centrifuge to obtain the supernatant, and concentrate under reduced pressure to a relative density of 1.05-1.2 g / cm 3 , and obtain ginseng fermentation extract.

[0010] Preferably, the preparation method of the grape seed fermentation extract is: drying the grape seeds, crushing and sieving, adding 70wt% ethanol aqueous solution at 40-60°C for ultrasonic extraction for 20-50min; filtering, and concentrating the filtrate under reduced pressure to a relative density of 1.05-1.2g / cm 3 , to obtain an extract; the extract, glucose, brewer's yeast, Lactobacillus plantarum and water are mixed evenly in a mass ratio of 15-30:5-10:1-4:1-4:52-78, and fermented and cultured at 25-35°C for 2-4 days; during the fermentation, the pH is controlled between 5.5-6.0; cooled to room temperature, centrifuged to obtain the supernatant, added an equal volume of ethyl acetate to extract 2-4 times, combined the organic phases, and distilled under reduced pressure to remove the solvent to obtain a grape seed fermentation extract.

[0011] Preferably, the moisturizing agent is at least one of glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, hydroxyethyl urea, 1,2-pentanediol, polyglutamic acid, lubric acid oil, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, and betaine; further preferably, the moisturizing agent is a mixture of glycerol and butylene glycol in a mass ratio of 1-3:1-2.

[0012] Preferably, the thickener is at least one of carbomer, xanthan gum, gum arabic, carrageenan, and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate; further preferably, the thickener is a mixture of gum arabic and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in a mass ratio of 2-3:1-2.

[0013] Preferably, the emulsifier is at least one of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, cetyl palmitate, and sorbitan palmitate.

[0014] Preferably, the astaxanthin is astaxanthin microspheres, and the preparation method thereof is as follows:

[0015] 1) adding astaxanthin to the lipids and dissolving the astaxanthin to obtain an oil phase;

[0016] 2) dissolving polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester and β-yeast glucan in water to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0017] 3) adding the oil phase to the water phase and homogenizing to obtain an emulsion;

[0018] 4) After ultrasonication and heating, the emulsion is added into a CaCl2 aqueous solution, filtered and dried to obtain astaxanthin microspheres.

[0019] Preferably, the preparation method of the astaxanthin microspheres is as follows:

[0020] 1) In a N2 atmosphere, the lipid is heated to 60-80°C to liquefy it, and then astaxanthin is added to obtain an oil phase after it is dissolved;

[0021] 2) mixing polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, β-yeast glucan and water and heating to 60-80° C. to obtain an aqueous phase after the mixture is completely dissolved;

[0022] 3) adding the oil phase to the water phase, and homogenizing at a rotation speed of 5000-7000 rpm for 3-5 minutes to obtain an emulsion;

[0023] 4) Ultrasonicate the emulsion at a power of 200-300 W for 2-5 min, keep warm for 1-2 h, then add it to a 1-2 mol / LCaCl2 aqueous solution while hot, let it stand at 5-10° C. for 1-2 h, filter and collect the filter cake, and dry the filter cake at 40-60° C. for 10-12 h to obtain astaxanthin microspheres.

[0024] Preferably, the lipid is a mixture of one or both of palmitic acid and tripalmitin; further preferably, the lipid is a mixture of palmitic acid and tripalmitin in a mass ratio of 1-3:2-4.

[0025] Preferably, the mass ratio of the lipid, astaxanthin, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester and β-yeast glucan is 5-10:1:2-5:2-5.

[0026] Further preferably, the β-yeast glucan is water-soluble β-yeast glucan, and the preparation method thereof is as follows:

[0027] (1) mixing β-yeast glucan with anhydrous ethanol, adding calcium hydrogen phosphate, and performing wet ball milling at a pressure of 0.5-1.0 MPa to obtain a pretreated slurry;

[0028] (2) diluting the pretreated slurry with 10-20 times the mass of water, then introducing CO2 gas into the slurry and treating it under a microwave with a power of 400-600 W for 1-2 h, wherein the CO2 introduction rate is 0.08-0.1 mL / min, filtering, and collecting the filtrate;

[0029] (3) The filtrate is spray-dried at 100-110° C. to obtain a preformed powder, and then a 30-40 wt % acetic acid aqueous solution is added, stirred evenly, filtered, the filter residue is collected, and then dried at 60-80° C. for 6-8 hours to obtain a water-soluble β-yeast glucan.

[0030] Preferably, in step (1), the mass ratio of β-yeast glucan, anhydrous ethanol and calcium hydrogen phosphate is 3-5:1:9-15.

[0031] Preferably, in step (3), the mass ratio of the prefabricated powder to the acetic acid aqueous solution is 1-2:3-5.

[0032] β-yeast glucan is an immunomodulator with good physiological functions. It has the effects of enhancing immunity, anti-tumor, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidation, promoting wound healing, anti-radiation, and lowering blood lipids. However, it is insoluble in water. The inventor phosphorylated the hydroxyl groups on the surface of β-yeast glucan through wet planetary ball milling combined with microwave micro-dissolution reaction. Compared with β-yeast glucan, it was used for astaxanthin encapsulation, which significantly improved the emulsification properties of astaxanthin microspheres. The encapsulated astaxanthin was used in anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation and their preparation methods, so that the active ingredients were evenly dispersed and not easy to settle, thereby improving the stability of the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging composition system and making the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging composition have a uniform and stable texture.

[0033] Astaxanthin is a xanthophyll carotenoid found in microorganisms and marine animals. It is also a powerful singlet oxygen activity quencher and strong oxygen free radical scavenger. It has strong antioxidant capacity and can remove nitrogen dioxide, sulfide, disulfide, etc. It can also reduce lipid peroxidation and effectively inhibit lipid peroxidation caused by free radicals. At the same time, it has many physiological effects such as inhibiting tumor occurrence, enhancing immunity, and removing free radicals in the body. It has a good therapeutic effect on skin cancer caused by ultraviolet rays. However, astaxanthin is a highly unsaturated molecule, so it is extremely sensitive to high temperature, light and oxidative conditions. Under these conditions, the degradation of astaxanthin will be accelerated and its biological activity will be reduced.

[0034] In order to improve the stability of astaxanthin, the inventors found that the bioavailability of astaxanthin encapsulated with β-yeast glucan is low, but the bioavailability of astaxanthin can be significantly improved by preparing a lipid-β-yeast glucan complex. β-yeast glucan has multiple sites that can interact with astaxanthin, and then the lipid is covalently linked to the β-yeast glucan molecule. The encapsulation effect of the lipid-β-yeast glucan complex on astaxanthin improves the water solubility and stability of astaxanthin, and the introduction of lipids more effectively improves the skin absorption effect of astaxanthin. By encapsulating astaxanthin to make astaxanthin microspheres, it has hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, solves the problem of poor water solubility of astaxanthin, and improves the stability of astaxanthin. After encapsulation, astaxanthin is slowly released in the skin, which can give full play to its antioxidant and anti-aging effects.

[0035] Preferably, the antioxidant is one of tocopherol and tea polyphenols.

[0036] In order to solve the technical problem of poor stability of the antioxidant tocopherol, the inventors embedded tocopherol in a binary gum mixture; the binary gum can improve the stability of tocopherol in the composition. Since the tocopherol is not in direct contact with the composition but is slowly released from the binary gum, the degradation of tocopherol is delayed and the shelf life of tocopherol is increased.

[0037] Further preferably, the tocopherol may also be modified tocopherol, and the preparation method thereof is as follows, in parts by weight:

[0038] M1. Dissolve 3.5-7 parts of xanthan gum and 1.5-3 parts of locust bean gum in 750-1000 parts of water, first mix at 65-80°C for 0.5-1h, then cool to room temperature, and continue mixing for 4-8h; after dehydration, obtain binary gum for standby use;

[0039] M2. Dissolve 0.1-0.25 parts of tocopherol in 75-100 parts of water, add 1-2 parts of the binary gum, mix at 45-60° C. for 2-6 hours, separate the product by centrifugation to obtain a solid, and then dry it to obtain the modified tocopherol.

[0040] The present invention also discloses a method for preparing the above-mentioned anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation, comprising the following steps:

[0041] S1: adding ginseng fermented extract, grape seed fermented extract, fruit acid and water into a blender, stirring at 50-80° C. for 25-40 minutes to obtain a mixture A;

[0042] S2: adding a moisturizer, a thickener, an emulsifier, and an antioxidant into a stirrer, stirring at 50 to 80° C. for 25 to 40 minutes to obtain a mixture B;

[0043] S3: Place mixture A and mixture B into an emulsifying homogenizer, homogenize for 15 to 30 seconds, cool to 20-40° C., then add astaxanthin and stir for 10 to 20 minutes.

[0044] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0045] (1) The present invention adds various components in a reasonable manner, and the ginseng fermented extract and the grape seed fermented extract synergize with the various components to effectively fight free radicals, reduce skin wrinkles, and delay skin aging, and has good anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing abilities;

[0046] (2) The present invention encapsulates astaxanthin into astaxanthin microspheres using a lipid-β-yeast glucan complex, thereby improving the water solubility of astaxanthin and facilitating the skin absorption effect of the anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation and the preparation method thereof; at the same time, the stability of astaxanthin is also improved, and the encapsulated astaxanthin is slowly released in the skin, which can fully exert its antioxidant and anti-aging effects.

[0047] (3) The present invention embeds tocopherol into the binary gum mixture to enhance the stability of tocopherol in the composition; the tocopherol is not in direct contact with the composition but is slowly released from the binary gum, so that the degradation of tocopherol is delayed and the shelf life of the antioxidant is increased. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0048] The present invention is further described in detail with reference to the following specific embodiments. The process, conditions, experimental methods, etc. for implementing the invention, except for the contents specifically mentioned below, are all common knowledge and common common sense in the art, and the present invention has no special restrictions.

[0049] To avoid redundancy, the items used in the following examples are all commercially available products unless otherwise specified, and the methods used are all conventional methods unless otherwise specified.

[0050] Some raw material sources and parameters in the examples are as follows:

[0051] Preparation method of ginseng fermentation extract: ginseng is dried naturally and then crushed through a 40-mesh sieve, refluxed and extracted with water at a mass ratio of 1:10 at 100°C for 2 hours, filtered, and the filtrate is concentrated under reduced pressure at 50°C to a relative density of 1.1 g / cm 3 , obtain the extract; mix the extract, brewer's yeast, Aspergillus oryzae and water in a mass ratio of 20:4:2:74, ferment at 28°C and 160rpm for 120h, during which the pH is controlled between 5.5 and 6.0 with 0.1mol / L hydrochloric acid; cool to room temperature, centrifuge at 8000rpm for 10min, take the supernatant, and concentrate at 50°C under reduced pressure to a relative density of 1.1g / cm 3 , and obtain ginseng fermentation extract. Saccharomyces cerevisiae, commercial product, CICC 1202, from China Industrial Microbiological Culture Collection Administration Center; Aspergillus oryzae, commercial product, CICC 40214, from China Industrial Microbiological Culture Collection Administration Center.

[0052] Preparation method of grape seed fermentation extract: the grape seeds are dried naturally and then crushed through a 40-mesh sieve, 70 wt% ethanol aqueous solution is added at a mass ratio of 1:10, sonicated at 50°C for 30 minutes, filtered, and the filtrate is concentrated under reduced pressure at 50°C to a relative density of 1.1 g / cm 3 , and obtain the extract; the extract, glucose, saccharomyces cerevisiae, Lactobacillus plantarum, and water are mixed evenly in a mass ratio of 20:8:2:2:68, and fermented at 35°C and 180rpm for 72h, during which the pH is controlled between 5.5 and 6.0 with 0.1mol / L hydrochloric acid; cooled to room temperature, centrifuged at 8000rpm for 10min, the supernatant is taken, and an equal volume of ethyl acetate is added for extraction three times, the organic phases are combined, and the solvent is removed by reduced pressure distillation at 50°C to obtain the grape seed fermentation extract. Saccharomyces cerevisiae, a commercial product, CICC 1202, is from the China Industrial Microbiological Culture Collection Administration Center; Lactobacillus plantarum, a commercial product, CICC 24936, is from the China Industrial Microbiological Culture Collection Administration Center.

[0053] Astaxanthin, content is 99%, CAS number is 472-61-7, melting point is 216℃, appearance is dark red crystals, Shenzhen Lefu Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0054] Palmitic acid, white flakes with pearlescent luster, content ≥98%, CAS number 57-10-3, density 0.852g / cm 3 , melting point is 55-63℃, Hubei Kewode Chemical Co., Ltd.,

[0055] Tripalmitin, CAS No. 555-44-2, melting point 66°C, specific gravity 0.916, refractive index 1.43807, Shanghai Guchen Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0056] β-yeast glucan, molecular weight of 20,000-4 million Daltons, β-glucan content ≥80%, protein content ≤3.5%, fat content ≤10%, ash content ≤3%, moisture ≤8%.

[0057] Example 1

[0058] A method for preparing anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation, comprising the following steps:

[0059] S1: adding 200 g of ginseng fermented extract, 150 g of grape seed fermented extract, 80 g of fruit acid and 1000 g of water into a blender, stirring at 70° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture A;

[0060] S2: 60 g of glycerol, 40 g of butylene glycol, 30 g of gum arabic, 20 g of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, 15 g of hydrogenated lecithin, and 15 g of tocopherol were added into a stirrer and stirred at 80° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture B;

[0061] S3: Place mixture A and mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, homogenize for 20 seconds, cool to 30°C, add 50g of astaxanthin microspheres, and stir for 20 minutes. The resulting emulsion is an anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation.

[0062] The preparation method of the astaxanthin microspheres is as follows:

[0063] 1) In a N2 atmosphere, 10 g of lipid was heated to 80°C to liquefy it, and then 1 g of astaxanthin was added to obtain an oil phase after the lipid was dissolved; the lipid was a mixture of palmitic acid and tripalmitin in a mass ratio of 1:3;

[0064] 2) 3 g of polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, 5 g of water-soluble β-yeast glucan and 30 g of water were mixed and heated to 80° C. to obtain an aqueous phase after the mixture was completely dissolved;

[0065] 3) adding the oil phase into the water phase and homogenizing at a rotation speed of 6000 rpm for 4 min to obtain an emulsion;

[0066] 4) The emulsion was ultrasonicated at a power of 300 W for 4 min, kept warm for 2 h, and then added to 100 mL of 1.5 mol / L CaCl2 aqueous solution while hot, and allowed to stand at 6°C for 2 h. The filter cake was collected by filtration and dried at 50°C for 12 h to obtain astaxanthin microspheres.

[0067] The preparation method of the water-soluble β-yeast glucan is as follows:

[0068] (1) 50 g of β-yeast glucan was mixed with 10 g of anhydrous ethanol, 150 g of calcium hydrogen phosphate was added, and wet ball milling was performed at a pressure of 0.8 MPa to obtain a pretreated slurry;

[0069] (2) diluting the pretreated slurry with 15 times the mass of water, then introducing CO2 gas into the slurry and treating it under a microwave with a power of 500 W for 2 h, the CO2 introduction rate being 0.08 mL / min, filtering, and collecting the filtrate;

[0070] (3) The filtrate is spray-dried at 100° C. to obtain a preformed powder, and then a 36 wt % acetic acid aqueous solution is added, wherein the mass of the acetic acid aqueous solution is twice that of the preformed powder. After stirring evenly, the mixture is filtered, the filter residue is collected, and then dried at 60° C. for 8 h to obtain water-soluble β-yeast glucan.

[0071] Example 2

[0072] A method for preparing anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation, comprising the following steps:

[0073] S1: adding 200 g of ginseng fermented extract, 150 g of grape seed fermented extract, 80 g of fruit acid and 1000 g of water into a blender, stirring at 70° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture A;

[0074] S2: 60 g of glycerol, 40 g of butylene glycol, 30 g of gum arabic, 20 g of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, 15 g of hydrogenated lecithin, and 15 g of tocopherol were added into a stirrer and stirred at 80° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture B;

[0075] S3: Place mixture A and mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, homogenize for 20 seconds, cool to 30°C, add 50g of astaxanthin microspheres, and stir for 20 minutes. The resulting emulsion is an anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation.

[0076] The preparation method of the astaxanthin microspheres is as follows:

[0077] 1) In a N2 atmosphere, 10 g of lipid was heated to 80°C to liquefy it, and then 1 g of astaxanthin was added to obtain an oil phase after the lipid was dissolved; the lipid was a mixture of palmitic acid and tripalmitin in a mass ratio of 1:3;

[0078] 2) 3 g of polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, 5 g of β-yeast glucan and 30 g of water were mixed and heated to 80° C. to obtain an aqueous phase after they were completely dissolved;

[0079] 3) adding the oil phase into the water phase and homogenizing at a rotation speed of 6000 rpm for 4 min to obtain an emulsion;

[0080] 4) The emulsion was ultrasonicated at a power of 300 W for 4 min, kept warm for 2 h, and then added to 100 mL of 1.5 mol / L CaCl2 aqueous solution while hot, and allowed to stand at 6°C for 2 h. The filter cake was collected by filtration and dried at 50°C for 12 h to obtain astaxanthin microspheres.

[0081] Example 3

[0082] A method for preparing anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation, comprising the following steps:

[0083] S1: adding 200 g of ginseng fermented extract, 150 g of grape seed fermented extract, 80 g of fruit acid and 1000 g of water into a blender, stirring at 70° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture A;

[0084] S2: 60 g of glycerol, 40 g of butylene glycol, 30 g of gum arabic, 20 g of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, 15 g of hydrogenated lecithin, and 15 g of tocopherol were added into a stirrer and stirred at 80° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture B;

[0085] S3: Place mixture A and mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, homogenize for 20 seconds, cool to 30°C, add 50g of astaxanthin, and stir for 20 minutes. The resulting emulsion is an anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation.

[0086] Example 4

[0087] A method for preparing anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation, comprising the following steps:

[0088] S1: adding 200 g of ginseng fermented extract, 150 g of grape seed fermented extract, 80 g of fruit acid and 1000 g of water into a blender, stirring at 70° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture A;

[0089] S2: 60 g of glycerol, 40 g of butylene glycol, 30 g of gum arabic, 20 g of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, 15 g of hydrogenated lecithin, and 15 g of modified tocopherol were added into a stirrer and stirred at 80° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture B;

[0090] S3: Place mixture A and mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, homogenize for 20 seconds, cool to 30°C, add 50g of astaxanthin microspheres, and stir for 20 minutes. The resulting emulsion is an anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation.

[0091] The preparation method of the astaxanthin microspheres is as follows:

[0092] 1) In a N2 atmosphere, 10 g of lipid was heated to 80°C to liquefy it, and then 1 g of astaxanthin was added to obtain an oil phase after the lipid was dissolved; the lipid was a mixture of palmitic acid and tripalmitin in a mass ratio of 1:3;

[0093] 2) 3 g of polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, 5 g of water-soluble β-yeast glucan and 30 g of water were mixed and heated to 80° C. to obtain an aqueous phase after the mixture was completely dissolved;

[0094] 3) adding the oil phase into the water phase and homogenizing at a rotation speed of 6000 rpm for 4 min to obtain an emulsion;

[0095] 4) The emulsion was ultrasonicated at a power of 300 W for 4 min, kept warm for 2 h, and then added to 100 mL of 1.5 mol / L CaCl2 aqueous solution while hot, and allowed to stand at 6°C for 2 h. The filter cake was collected by filtration and dried at 50°C for 12 h to obtain astaxanthin microspheres.

[0096] The preparation method of the water-soluble β-yeast glucan is as follows:

[0097] (1) 50 g of β-yeast glucan was mixed with 10 g of anhydrous ethanol, 150 g of calcium hydrogen phosphate was added, and wet ball milling was performed at a pressure of 0.8 MPa to obtain a pretreated slurry;

[0098] (2) diluting the pretreated slurry with 15 times the mass of water, then introducing CO2 gas into the slurry and treating it under a microwave with a power of 500 W for 2 h, the CO2 introduction rate being 0.08 mL / min, filtering, and collecting the filtrate;

[0099] (3) The filtrate is spray-dried at 100° C. to obtain a preformed powder, and then a 36 wt % acetic acid aqueous solution is added, wherein the mass of the acetic acid aqueous solution is twice that of the preformed powder. After stirring evenly, the mixture is filtered, the filter residue is collected, and then dried at 60° C. for 8 h to obtain water-soluble β-yeast glucan.

[0100] The preparation method of the modified tocopherol is as follows:

[0101] M1. Dissolve 3.5 g xanthan gum and 1.5 g locust bean gum in 750 g water, first mix at 80°C for 0.5 h, then cool to room temperature, and continue mixing for 4 h; after dehydration, obtain binary gum for later use;

[0102] M2. Dissolve 0.1 g of tocopherol in 75 g of water, add 1 g of the binary gum, mix at 45° C. for 4 h, separate the product by centrifugation to obtain a solid, and then dry it to obtain the modified tocopherol.

[0103] Comparative Example 1

[0104] A method for preparing anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation, comprising the following steps:

[0105] S1: adding 200 g of ginseng fermented extract, 150 g of grape seed fermented extract, 80 g of fruit acid and 1000 g of water into a blender, stirring at 70° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture A;

[0106] S2: 60 g of glycerol, 40 g of butylene glycol, 30 g of gum arabic, 20 g of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, 15 g of hydrogenated lecithin, and 15 g of tocopherol were added into a stirrer and stirred at 80° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture B;

[0107] S3: Place mixture A and mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, homogenize for 20 seconds, cool to 30°C, add 50g of astaxanthin microspheres, and stir for 20 minutes. The resulting emulsion is an anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation.

[0108] The preparation method of the astaxanthin microspheres is as follows:

[0109] Mix 1g astaxanthin, 3g polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, 5g β-yeast glucan and 30g water, heat to 80°C, ultrasonicate at 300W for 4min, keep warm for 2h, add to 100mL 1.5mol / L CaCl2 aqueous solution while hot, let stand at 6°C for 2h, collect the filter cake by filtration, and dry the filter cake at 50°C for 12h to obtain astaxanthin microspheres.

[0110] Comparative Example 2

[0111] A method for preparing anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation, comprising the following steps:

[0112] S1: adding 200 g of ginseng fermented extract, 150 g of grape seed fermented extract, 80 g of fruit acid and 1000 g of water into a blender, stirring at 70° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture A;

[0113] S2: 60 g of glycerol, 40 g of butylene glycol, 30 g of gum arabic, 20 g of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, 15 g of hydrogenated lecithin, and 15 g of tocopherol were added into a stirrer and stirred at 80° C. for 30 min to obtain a mixture B;

[0114] S3: Place mixture A and mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, homogenize for 20 seconds, cool to 30°C, add 50g of astaxanthin microspheres, and stir for 20 minutes. The resulting emulsion is an anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation.

[0115] The preparation method of the astaxanthin microspheres is as follows:

[0116] Mix 1g astaxanthin, 3g polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, 5g water-soluble β-yeast glucan and 30g water, heat to 80°C, ultrasonicate at 300W for 4min, keep warm for 2h, add to 100mL 1.5mol / L CaCl2 aqueous solution while hot, let stand at 6°C for 2h, collect the filter cake by filtration, and dry the filter cake at 50°C for 12h to obtain astaxanthin microspheres.

[0117] The preparation method of the water-soluble β-yeast glucan is as follows:

[0118] (1) 50 g of β-yeast glucan was mixed with 10 g of anhydrous ethanol, 150 g of calcium hydrogen phosphate was added, and wet ball milling was performed at a pressure of 0.8 MPa to obtain a pretreated slurry;

[0119] (2) diluting the pretreated slurry with 15 times the mass of water, then introducing CO2 gas into the slurry and treating it under a microwave with a power of 500 W for 2 h, the CO2 introduction rate being 0.08 mL / min, filtering, and collecting the filtrate;

[0120] (3) The filtrate is spray-dried at 100° C. to obtain a preformed powder, and then a 36 wt % acetic acid aqueous solution is added, wherein the mass of the acetic acid aqueous solution is twice that of the preformed powder. After stirring evenly, the mixture is filtered, the filter residue is collected, and then dried at 60° C. for 8 h to obtain water-soluble β-yeast glucan.

[0121] Test Example 1

[0122] Stability test:

[0123] The anti-wrinkle and anti-aging compositions prepared in Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 were tested for stability using the following test method:

[0124] (1) Accelerated test: Take 3 samples of each composition, put 10 g of each sample into a centrifuge tube, and rotate at 2500 r / min -1 , centrifuge for 30 minutes, and observe whether the sample has stratification.

[0125] (2) Hot and cold alternating test: Take 10g of each of three batches of composition samples and put them into a weighing bottle with a lid. First, place them in a constant temperature water bath at 40°C for 24 hours, then place them at room temperature for 24 hours, and finally place them in a refrigerator at 20°C for 24 hours. Repeat the above process N times until stratification occurs. The test results are averaged. The specific test results are shown in Table 1:

[0126] Table 1: Stability test of anti-wrinkle and anti-aging composition

[0127] Accelerated testing Hot and cold alternation times Example 1 No stratification 10 times Example 2 No stratification 8 times Example 3 The stratification phenomenon 5 times Example 4 No stratification 10 times Comparative Example 1 The stratification phenomenon 6 times Comparative Example 2 The stratification phenomenon 6 times

[0128] It can be seen from the experimental results in Table 1 that the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging compositions prepared in Examples 1 and 4 have the best stability performance, and the difference between Examples 1 and 4 and other examples and comparative examples is that astaxanthin microspheres encapsulated by lipid-water-soluble β-yeast glucan complexes are added. The possible reason is that the lipid-water-soluble β-yeast glucan complex has a better encapsulation effect on astaxanthin, and the astaxanthin microspheres can be evenly dispersed in the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging composition and are not easy to settle, thereby improving the stability of the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging composition system. The addition of water-soluble β-yeast glucan is more conducive to improving the emulsification of the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging composition, so that the texture of the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging composition is uniform and stable.

[0129] Test Example 2

[0130] DPPH free radical scavenging rate test:

[0131] The test objects are the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging compositions prepared in Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2; the reagents are 1,1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine (DPPH) and anhydrous ethanol; preparation of DPPH: accurately weigh 20 mg DPPH, dilute to 250 mL with 95wt% anhydrous ethanol for later use; preparation of the sample to be tested: respectively take 20 mg of the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging compositions prepared in Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2, dilute to 250 mL with 99.9wt% ethanol aqueous solution for later use.

[0132] The test procedure is to take 2 mL of the prepared test sample and 2 mL of DPPH solution and place them in a stoppered test tube, place them in a constant temperature box at 37°C for 1 hour, use 99.9wt% ethanol aqueous solution as a blank control, and measure the absorbance A of each test sample at a wavelength of 517nm in an ultraviolet spectrophotometer. i , and the clearance rate was calculated as follows: Clearance rate = [1-(A i -A j ) / A c ]×100%

[0133] A c It is the absorbance of 2 mL of 99.9 wt% ethanol aqueous solution plus 2 mL of DPPH solution;

[0134] A i It is the absorbance of 2mL of the test agent plus 2mL of DPPH solution;

[0135] A j It is the absorbance of 2 mL of the test agent plus 2 mL of 99.9 wt% ethanol aqueous solution;

[0136] Each sample to be tested is tested in three groups of parallel samples, and the average value is calculated. The test results are shown in Table 2:

[0137] Table 2: DPPH free radical scavenging test results

[0138] Free radical scavenging rate (%) Example 1 91.8 Example 2 89.6 Example 3 75.6 Example 4 93.9 Comparative Example 1 76.8 Comparative Example 2 78.6

[0139] Generally, under the action of free radicals, collagen in the skin will react, so that the skin cannot get enough nutrition supply, resulting in decreased vitality of skin tissue, loss of elasticity, wrinkles, dull skin color, etc. The DPPH free radical scavenging ability reflects the antioxidant capacity of the composition. It can be seen from the experimental data in Table 2 that the wrinkle-removing and anti-aging composition prepared in Example 4 has the best antioxidant performance. The possible reason is that astaxanthin is encapsulated by lipid-water-soluble β-yeast glucan complex, which solves the problem of poor water solubility of astaxanthin and improves the stability of astaxanthin; secondly, tocopherol is embedded in the binary gum mixture, and the binary gum can improve the stability of tocopherol in the composition. Since the tocopherol is not in direct contact with the composition, but is slowly released from the binary gum, the degradation of tocopherol is delayed, and the shelf life of tocopherol is increased, which is conducive to the improvement of the antioxidant effect.

[0140] Test Example 3

[0141] Anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effect test:

[0142] 50 subjects were selected and divided into 5 groups on average. The anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation and the preparation method thereof prepared in Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 were used respectively. The test sites were the cheeks and the corners of the eyes on both sides. The products were used once in the morning and evening every day after cleansing. After 30 days of use, the average wrinkle depth value was measured using the MicroSkinⅡ multifunctional dermatoscope image analysis system, and the average wrinkle depth reduction rate was calculated. The average wrinkle depth reduction rate = (average wrinkle depth before use - average wrinkle depth after use) / average wrinkle depth before use × 100%. The test results were averaged. The test results are shown in Table 3:

[0143] Table 3: Anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing test results

[0144] Average wrinkle reduction rate (%) Example 1 16.8 Example 2 15.4 Example 3 12.8 Example 4 17.3 Comparative Example 1 13.6 Comparative Example 2 14.2

[0145] From the data in Table 3, it can be seen that Example 4 also has the best anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects. The possible reason is that the astaxanthin encapsulated by the lipid-water-soluble β-yeast glucan complex can be more stably dispersed in the system, which is beneficial to the skin's absorption of active ingredients, and improves the anti-aging efficacy of the anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation and the preparation method thereof. At the same time, the encapsulation effect of the lipid-water-soluble β-yeast glucan complex on astaxanthin improves the water solubility of astaxanthin, and has a better encapsulation effect on astaxanthin, so that astaxanthin is slowly released in the skin, which can give full play to its anti-aging effect and improve its bioavailability.

Claims

1. An anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation, characterized in that: The invention comprises the following components: by weight, 15-30 parts of ginseng fermented extract, 11-32 parts of grape seed fermented extract, 8-15 parts of moisturizer, 3-5 parts of thickener, 1-2 parts of emulsifier, 6-10 parts of fruit acid, 3-8 parts of astaxanthin, 1-2 parts of antioxidant and 80-100 parts of water.

2. The anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the ginseng fermentation extract is as follows: drying the ginseng, crushing it, sieving it, adding water, and then boiling and extracting it for 1-3 hours; filtering, and concentrating the filtrate under reduced pressure to a relative density of 1.05-1.2 g / cm 3 , obtain an extract; mix the extract, brewer's yeast, Aspergillus oryzae and water in a mass ratio of 15-30:3-6:1-3:61-81, ferment and culture at 25-35°C for 3-7 days, during which the pH is controlled between 5.5-6.0; cool to room temperature, centrifuge to obtain the supernatant, and concentrate under reduced pressure to a relative density of 1.05-1.2 g / cm 3 , obtain ginseng fermentation extract; The preparation method of the grape seed fermentation extract comprises: drying the grape seeds, crushing them, sieving them, adding 70wt% ethanol aqueous solution, ultrasonically extracting them at 40-60°C for 20-50min; filtering, and concentrating the filtrate under reduced pressure to a relative density of 1.05-1.2g / cm 3 , to obtain an extract; the extract, glucose, brewer's yeast, Lactobacillus plantarum and water are mixed evenly in a mass ratio of 15-30:5-10:1-4:1-4:52-78, and fermented and cultured at 25-35°C for 2-4 days; during the fermentation, the pH is controlled between 5.5-6.0; cooled to room temperature, centrifuged to obtain the supernatant, added an equal volume of ethyl acetate to extract 2-4 times, combined the organic phases, and distilled under reduced pressure to remove the solvent to obtain a grape seed fermentation extract.

3. The anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation according to claim 1, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent is at least one of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, hydroxyethyl urea, 1,2-pentanediol, polyglutamic acid, lubric acid oil, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose and betaine.

4. The anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation according to claim 1, characterized in that: The thickener is at least one of carbomer, xanthan gum, gum arabic, carrageenan and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

5. The anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation according to claim 1, characterized in that: The emulsifier is at least one of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, cetyl palmitate and sorbitan palmitate.

6. The anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation according to claim 1, characterized in that: The astaxanthin is astaxanthin microspheres; The preparation method of the astaxanthin microspheres is as follows: 1) In a N2 atmosphere, the lipid is heated to 60-80°C to liquefy it, and then astaxanthin is added to obtain an oil phase after it is dissolved; 2) mixing polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, β-yeast glucan and water and heating to 60-80° C. to obtain an aqueous phase after the mixture is completely dissolved; 3) adding the oil phase to the water phase, and homogenizing at a rotation speed of 5000-7000 rpm for 3-5 minutes to obtain an emulsion; 4) Ultrasonicate the emulsion at a power of 200-300 W for 2-5 min, keep warm for 1-2 h, then add it to a 1-2 mol / LCaCl2 aqueous solution while hot, let it stand at 5-10° C. for 1-2 h, filter and collect the filter cake, and dry the filter cake at 40-60° C. for 10-12 h to obtain astaxanthin microspheres.

7. The anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation according to claim 6, characterized in that: The mass ratio of the lipid, astaxanthin, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester and beta-yeast glucan is 5-10:1:2-5:2-5.

8. The anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that: The lipid is palmitic acid, tripalmitin, or a mixture of both.

9. The anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetic based on biological fermentation according to claim 1, characterized in that: The antioxidant is modified tocopherol, and its preparation method is as follows, in parts by weight: M1. Dissolve 3.5-7 parts of xanthan gum and 1.5-3 parts of locust bean gum in 750-1000 parts of water, first mix at 65-80°C for 0.5-1h, then cool to room temperature, and continue mixing for 4-8h; after dehydration, obtain binary gum for standby use; M2. Dissolve 0.1-0.25 parts of tocopherol in 75-100 parts of water, add 1-2 parts of the binary gum, mix at 45-60° C. for 2-6 hours, separate the product by centrifugation to obtain a solid, and then dry it to obtain the modified tocopherol.

10. The method for preparing the anti-aging nourishing and repairing cosmetics based on biological fermentation according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that: The steps include: S1: adding ginseng fermented extract, grape seed fermented extract, fruit acid and water into a blender, stirring at 50-80° C. for 25-40 minutes to obtain a mixture A; S2: adding a moisturizer, a thickener, an emulsifier, and an antioxidant into a stirrer, stirring at 50 to 80° C. for 25 to 40 minutes to obtain a mixture B; S3: Place mixture A and mixture B into an emulsifying homogenizer, homogenize for 15 to 30 seconds, cool to 20-40° C., add astaxanthin, and stir for 10 to 20 minutes to obtain the mixture.