Silk breathable tatting-imitating jacquard fabric and processing method thereof

Through knitting process and multi-layer matching and dyeing process, the appearance and characteristics of woven fabrics are simulated, and the lack of breathability and comfort of traditional woven fabrics is solved, and the combination of silky breathable effect and thick visual effect of imitation woven fabrics is achieved.

CN119800587APending Publication Date: 2025-04-11FUJIAN SEPTWOLVES IND

Patent Information

Application Number
CN202411986801.X
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-12-31
Publication Date
2025-04-11

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Traditional woven fabrics are not as breathable and comfortable as knitted fabrics, and are difficult to meet the increasing demands of consumers.

Method used

The imitation woven jacquard fabric is made using knitting technology. Through a specific coil and ring structure, combined with a multi-layer matching and dyeing process, the appearance and characteristics of the woven fabric are simulated and the three-dimensional and layered sense of fabric is enhanced.

Benefits of technology

It realizes the silky and breathable effect of imitation woven fabrics, retaining the thickness and solid visual effect of woven fabrics, and at the same time integrating the performance advantages of knitted fabrics, improving the overall performance of the fabrics.

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Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of spinning and knitting, in particular to a silk breathable woven-imitating jacquard fabric and a processing method thereof, and the fabric is provided with woven woven-imitating twill patterns; the minimum circulation unit of the pattern is composed of eight coil transverse rows and four coil longitudinal rows. Specifically, cotton / silk blended yarns penetrate through a first transverse path and a fifth transverse path, 4C groove polyester yarns penetrate through a second transverse path and a sixth transverse path, cotton / silk / wool blended yarns penetrate through a third transverse path and a seventh transverse path, and polyester / spandex core-spun yarns penetrate through a fourth transverse path and an eighth transverse path; in one cycle unit, the singular number of transverse paths penetrate through the staple fiber yarn, and the even number of transverse paths penetrate through the filament yarn thicker than the singular number of transverse path staple fiber yarn. According to the fabric, a unique knitting process is matched with a unique dyeing process, the appearance and characteristics of a woven fabric are ingeniously simulated, the heavy and firm aesthetic feeling of the woven fabric is reserved, and the performance of a knitted fabric is also achieved.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention generally relates to the field of textile knitting technology, and in particular to a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric and a processing method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Woven fabrics are ideal for formal wear and high-end clothing due to their excellent dimensional stability and stiff texture, but they are slightly inferior to knitted fabrics in terms of breathability and comfort. With the increasing improvement of consumer concepts, traditional woven fabrics are increasingly difficult to meet consumer demand. Therefore, designing a fabric that simulates the appearance and characteristics of woven fabrics while retaining the performance advantages of knitted fabrics has become a new path for the design and development of knitted fabrics.

[0003] For example, Chinese patent CN114892329A discloses an elasticity-controllable imitation woven serge knitted fabric and a production method thereof, wherein the method described therein is to use cotton yarn, polyester yarn and spandex yarn as raw materials, and to weave on a circular knitting machine with a weft-knitted inlay yarn structure; the twill texture of the knitted imitation woven serge is realized through a composite structure; wherein the composite structure is a complete structure woven by a 6-way loop system, 2, 4, and 6-way loops; 1, 3, and 5-way loops + floating lines; the floating line coils are configured with cotton yarns exposed on the back side of the process as the front side of the garment, forming an imitation woven two-up and one-down twill serge; the knitted loop coils are configured with polyester and spandex exposed on the front side of the process as the back side of the garment, and the inlay yarn structure is used to form the base fabric structure, and the front side of the process is the coil surface of the polyester and spandex inlay yarn structure. The fabric of the invention has the effect of imitating woven serge fabric, and the reverse side of the process, i.e. the front side of the garment, forms an imitation woven two-upper-lower twill serge, and the front side of the process is a coil surface of a polyester and spandex added yarn structure, the surface of the fabric is flat and skin-friendly, and the preparation method is simple. Although the patent imitates the appearance of woven fabrics through loop formation and floating line structure, its surface is flat and fails to highlight the heavy and solid characteristics of woven fabrics, and the imitation woven appearance effect is poor.

[0004] It should be noted that the information disclosed in the above background technology section is only used to enhance the understanding of the background of the present disclosure, and therefore may include information that does not constitute the prior art known to ordinary technicians in the field. Summary of the invention

[0005] A series of simplified concepts are introduced in the Summary of the Invention, which will be further described in detail in the Detailed Description of the Invention. The Summary of the Invention does not mean to attempt to define the key features and essential technical features of the claimed technical solution, nor does it mean to attempt to determine the scope of protection of the claimed technical solution.

[0006] The object of the present invention is to overcome at least one defect of the above-mentioned prior art and provide a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric and a processing method thereof.

[0007] In order to achieve the above-mentioned invention object, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme:

[0008] A silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric, the fabric is provided with a knitted imitation woven twill pattern, and its front side presents a left twill appearance; the minimum circulation unit of the pattern consists of eight coil horizontal rows and four coil vertical rows; specifically, the first horizontal route and the fifth horizontal route are penetrated with cotton / silk blended yarn, the second horizontal route and the sixth horizontal route are penetrated with 4C groove polyester yarn, the third horizontal route and the seventh horizontal route are penetrated with cotton / silk / wool blended yarn, and the fourth horizontal route and the eighth horizontal route are penetrated with polyester / spandex core-spun yarn; the odd-numbered horizontal routes in the one circulation unit are penetrated with spun yarn, and the even-numbered horizontal routes are penetrated with filament yarn thicker than the spun yarn in the odd-numbered horizontal routes; in a three-circle organization in which three looped coils are nested, the filament yarn is looped in the middle position, and two spun yarns are looped in the upper and lower positions; in a two-circle organization in which two looped coils are nested, the filament yarn and the spun yarn are looped in the upper and lower positions, and the three-circle organization and the two-circle organization are both arranged obliquely.

[0009] Preferably, the three-loop organization adopts a single-needle double-row tuck structure to draw yarn from adjacent loops for protruding display.

[0010] Preferably, the cotton / silk blended yarn is 50s / 1-60s / 1, 90% cotton + 10% mulberry silk; the 4C groove polyester yarn is 120D-150D, 100% polyester; the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 50s / 1-60s / 1, 70% cotton + 20% mulberry silk + 10% wool; the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 120D-150D, 85% polyester + 15% spandex.

[0011] Preferably, the fabric is composed of 45% cotton + 41% polyester fiber + 5% mulberry silk + 5% wool + 4% spandex, and has a longitudinal density of 140 horizontal rows / 5 cm and a transverse density of 85 vertical lines / 5 cm.

[0012] A method for processing a silky breathable woven jacquard fabric, comprising the following steps: weaving→pre-setting→singeing→enzyme scouring→cold-batch alkali scouring and bleaching→chitosan modification→dehydration and drying→dyeing→singeing→softening and setting→preshrinking→finished product; wherein the woven grey cloth is the silky breathable woven jacquard fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4; the enzyme scouring and cold-batch alkali scouring and bleaching are used to remove impurities and improve the smoothness, wetting and permeability of the grey cloth, so as to facilitate subsequent dyeing; the chitosan modification comprises dipping the grey cloth in a chitosan solution twice in succession, dehydrating and drying, so as to comprehensively enhance the fiber's adsorption capacity for active dyes; the dyeing comprises three coloring processes of the grey cloth, the first coloring adopts disperse dyes, and the second and third coloring adopt heterobiactive active dyes.

[0013] Preferably, during the first dyeing, the grey cloth is immersed in the first dye solution, a low-temperature dyeing accelerator is first added, and then disperse dyes, disperse leveling agents, and wool protective agents are added, with a bath ratio of 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 4.5-5.5 for dyeing.

[0014] Preferably, before the second coloring, the grey cloth is first reduction cleaned, and then immersed in a second dye solution containing a heterobiactive reactive dye and a non-ionic surfactant, with a bath ratio of 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 5; after stirring, sodium sulfate is added, the temperature is raised to 60°C, the heating rate is 1.5°C / min, and the temperature is kept for 30-35 minutes for the second coloring.

[0015] Preferably, during the third coloring, heterobiactive reactive dyes, penetrants, wool retarder, wool protector and sodium sulfate are continuously added to the second dye liquor at a bath ratio of 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 11 for the third coloring.

[0016] Preferably, after the third coloring, the grey cloth is color-fixed with a formaldehyde-free color fixing agent and an anti-wrinkle finishing agent; and after water washing and ultrasonic soap washing, the cloth enters the singeing process.

[0017] Preferably, the softening and shaping is carried out by using a non-ionic silicone oil softener, and the embryo cloth is twice dipped and twice rolled before being shaped and dried, the shaping and drying temperature is 120-125° C., and the time is 40-60s.

[0018] The knitted imitation shuttle-woven twill fabric formed by the present invention has a spun yarn in an odd number of passes that is thinner than a filament yarn in an even number of passes, and at a position where three loops are nested, the filament yarn is looped at a middle position, and the loop at this position is most protruding when viewed from a cross section of the fabric, and the heights of the upper and lower spun yarn loop positions are slightly lower than the filament yarn loop positions when viewed from the cross section; and further, a single-needle double-row tuck structure is used to draw yarn from adjacent loops, so that a three-loop tissue position (light gray) where three loops are nested is more protruding than a two-loop tissue position (dark gray) where two loops are nested, so that the twill appearance of the fabric has a three-dimensional layered sense, and the three-dimensional and layered sense makes the appearance of the fabric more thick and solid visually, and the imitation shuttle-woven effect is better.

[0019] At the same time, in order to amplify this three-dimensional and layered visual effect, the present invention further adopts a targeted multi-layer piece dyeing process, utilizing the differences in the reflective effects of short-fiber blended yarn and filament yarn, looping and gathering, and cooperates with three coloring processes to form a specific shadow effect on the knitted fabric, thereby further enhancing the visual three-dimensional effect and making the imitation woven effect more realistic.

[0020] The present invention uses a variety of blended yarns with different characteristics to weave a knitted fabric with the appearance of a classic woven fabric. Through the special arrangement of looping and tucking triangles and a specific threading method, the fabric has the following advantages:

[0021] First, the short-staple yarn and the filament yarn are set at intervals to reduce the risk of snagging. Not only are the floating threads on the back side short and less likely to be snagged, but the alternating threading method of the short-staple yarn and the filament yarn separates the filament yarn loops on the front of the fabric, making it less likely to be hooked by sharp objects. Therefore, both the front and back of the fabric can effectively avoid snagging.

[0022] Second, all kinds of raw materials give full play to their performance advantages: for example, cotton, silk and wool blended yarns are comfortable to wear; 4C grooved polyester has the characteristics of moisture absorption and quick drying; cool polyester / spandex core-spun yarn can provide a cool contact function.

[0023] Third, in the process of alternating looping and tucking, the unevenness of yarn splitting and yarn bending can be shared by the upper and lower loops, which is beneficial to improving the loop uniformity of the entire knitted fabric.

[0024] The multi-component fiber of the present invention has the problem of poor dyeing homochromaticity and reproducibility in dyeing process. The inventors have selected the optimal dye combination through experiments, namely, low-temperature disperse dye + heterobiactive reactive dye for step-by-step dyeing, dyeing at a lower temperature, and saving energy. When dyeing, the polyester fiber is first dyed with an acid bath, and then the acidity and alkalinity of the dye bath are adjusted by an alkali agent, so that the reactive dye can dye the cotton, silk and wool fibers homochromatically and levelly in two steps, thereby improving the dyeing stability of various fibers.

[0025] The invention performs reduction cleaning first and then dyeing with reactive dyes after dyeing with disperse dyes, thereby solving the problem of disperse dyes staining cotton fibers and making it possible to dye polyester fibers with the same color as three natural fibers.

[0026] The fabrics mentioned in the present invention involve many types of fibers, including cotton fibers, mulberry silk fibers, sheep wool fibers, and polyester fibers, among which mulberry silk and sheep wool are protein fibers. Therefore, after multiple tests and screenings, the inventors unexpectedly discovered that heterodimer reactive dyes among reactive dyes have the best performance in dyeing homochromy of the fabrics of the present invention, and have an effect stability superior to other reactive dyes. While making the cellulose fibers and protein fibers in the fabrics show excellent dyeing homochromy, the dyeing effect also has excellent reproducibility, and has great value for industrial production application.

[0027] With the ingenious design of the present invention, a new type of knitted jacquard fabric comes into being. This fabric cleverly simulates the appearance and characteristics of woven fabrics through a unique knitting process combined with a unique dyeing process, successfully crossing the traditional boundaries between weaving and knitting in appearance and performance, and achieving a high degree of similarity in appearance imitation, which not only retains the formal beauty of woven fabrics, thick and solid, but also integrates the performance advantages of knitted fabrics, opening up new prospects for the expanded application of knitted fabrics. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0028] Various objects, features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent by considering the following detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the present invention in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. The accompanying drawings are merely exemplary illustrations of the present invention and are not necessarily drawn to scale. In the accompanying drawings, the same reference numerals always refer to the same or similar parts. Among them:

[0029] Figure 1 This is the main structural design diagram of the silky, breathable, imitation woven jacquard fabric in Example 1 of the present application.

[0030] Figure 2 This is the minimum circulation unit structure design diagram of the silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric in Example 1 of the present application.

[0031] Figure 3 It is a cloth dyeing performance test result table obtained in the implementation mode of the present application.

[0032] Figure 4 This is a table of test results of fabric physical properties obtained in the implementation mode of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0033] Example embodiments will now be described more fully with reference to the accompanying drawings. However, example embodiments can be implemented in a variety of forms and should not be construed as limited to the embodiments set forth herein; rather, these embodiments are provided so that the present invention will be comprehensive and complete and fully convey the concepts of the example embodiments to those skilled in the art. The same reference numerals in the figures represent the same or similar structures, and thus their detailed description will be omitted.

[0034] The described features, structures or characteristics may be combined in one or more embodiments in any suitable manner. In the following description, many specific details are provided to provide a full understanding of the embodiments of the present invention. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that the technical solution of the present invention may be practiced without one or more of the specific details, or other methods, components, materials, etc. may be adopted. In other cases, known structures, materials or operations are not shown or described in detail to avoid blurring various aspects of the present invention.

[0035] In the following description, a large number of specific details are provided to provide a more thorough understanding of the present invention. However, it is obvious to those skilled in the art that the present invention can be implemented without one or more of these details. In other examples, in order to avoid confusion with the present invention, some technical features well known in the art are not described.

[0036] Example 1

[0037] See also Figure 1 and Figure 2The present embodiment provides a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric, the fabric is provided with a knitted imitation woven twill pattern, and its front side presents a left twill appearance; the minimum circulation unit of the pattern is composed of eight coil horizontal rows and four coil vertical rows; specifically, the first horizontal route and the fifth horizontal route are penetrated with cotton / silk blended yarn, the second horizontal route and the sixth horizontal route are penetrated with 4C groove polyester yarn, the third horizontal route and the seventh horizontal route are penetrated with cotton / silk / wool blended yarn, and the fourth horizontal route and the eighth horizontal route are penetrated with polyester / spandex core-spun yarn; in a circulation unit, the odd horizontal route is penetrated with spun yarn, and the even horizontal route is penetrated with filament yarn thicker than the spun yarn in the odd horizontal route. In the three-circle structure (light gray) in which three loop coils are nested, the filament yarn is looped in the middle position, and the two spun yarns are looped in the upper and lower positions. In the two-circle structure (dark gray) in which two loop coils are nested, the filament yarn and the spun yarn are looped in the upper and lower positions, and the three-circle structure and the two-circle structure are both arranged obliquely. The three-circle structure uses a single-needle double-row tuck structure to pull the yarn from the adjacent loops for protruding display.

[0038] Among them, the cotton / silk blended yarn is 50s / 1-60s / 1, 90% cotton + 10% mulberry silk; the 4C groove polyester yarn is 120D-150D, 100% polyester; the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 50s / 1-60s / 1, 70% cotton + 20% mulberry silk + 10% wool; the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 120D-150D, 85% polyester + 15% spandex. In this embodiment, the cotton / silk blended yarn is 50s / 1, the 4C groove polyester yarn is 120D, the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 50s / 1, and the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 120D. In this embodiment, the 4C groove polyester yarn uses the product of Huamao Biotechnology Co., Ltd., and the product brand is 2.0-4C.

[0039] The fabric is composed of 45% cotton + 41% polyester fiber + 5% mulberry silk + 5% wool + 4% spandex, with a longitudinal density of 140 horizontal rows / 5cm and a transverse density of 85 vertical rows / 5cm.

[0040] This embodiment also provides a method for processing a silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric, comprising the following steps: weaving → pre-setting → singeing → enzyme scouring → cold batch alkali scouring and bleaching → chitosan modification → dehydration and drying → dyeing → singeing → softening and setting → pre-shrinking → finished product. Specifically:

[0041] Weaving, weaving the above-mentioned silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric as a grey fabric, and subjecting the grey fabric to the following processing;

[0042] Pre-setting, temperature 185-190°C, time 25-30s; In this embodiment, pre-setting, temperature 185°C, time 25;

[0043] Singeing, two positive and one negative, burner temperature 1000℃, machine speed 120m / min;

[0044] Enzyme scouring, scouring enzyme 2-2.5g / L, penetrant 1-2g / L, bath ratio 1:10, immersion temperature 55-60°C, immersion time 50-60min; In this embodiment, scouring enzyme 2, penetrant 1, immersion temperature 55°C, immersion time 50min;

[0045] Cold stack alkali scouring and bleaching, soda ash 15-18g / L, scouring agent 5-6g / L, 30% H2O2 10-15g / L, high-efficiency oil remover 8-10g / L, stabilizer 5-6g / L, defoamer 1-2g / L, dispersant 1-2g / L, cold stack temperature 28-30°C, cold stack time 20-22h; in this embodiment, soda ash 15g / L, scouring agent 5g / L, 30% H2O2 10g / L, high-efficiency oil remover 8g / L, stabilizer 5g / L, defoamer 1g / L, dispersant 1g / L, cold stack temperature 28°C, cold stack time 20h.

[0046] Chitosan modification, water washing, dehydration; steaming, temperature 110℃, speed 50m / min;

[0047] Impregnate chitosan at a concentration of 0.5%, a bath ratio of 1:20, a temperature of 55-60°C, and a time of 30 min; squeeze dry; in this embodiment, impregnate chitosan at a temperature of 55°C;

[0048] Impregnate chitosan, concentration 0.5%, bath ratio 1:20, temperature 60°C, time 25min; dry.

[0049] dyeing:

[0050] The cloth is put into the room temperature and immersed in a low-temperature dyeing accelerator with a concentration of 8-10% and a temperature of 70° C. for 10 minutes. In this embodiment, the cloth is immersed in a low-temperature dyeing accelerator with a concentration of 8%.

[0051] The materials are fed with disperse dye 3.5-4%, disperse leveling agent 0.5%, wool protective agent 2%, bath ratio 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 4.5-5.5; in this embodiment, disperse dye 3.5%, and the pH value is adjusted to 4.5.

[0052] Stir for 5 min, and heat to 105 °C at a rate of 1 °C / min;

[0053] Keep warm for 40-45 minutes, and dry; in this embodiment, keep warm for 40 minutes.

[0054] Reduction cleaning, water washing;

[0055] The materials are 1.5-2.5% of heterobi-reactive dye, 0.5-0.6 g / L of nonionic surfactant, bath ratio 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 5. In this embodiment, 1.5% of heterobi-reactive dye and 0.5 g / L of nonionic surfactant are used.

[0056] Add the cloth, stir for 10 minutes, add 10-15g / L of sodium sulphate; in this embodiment, 10g / L of sodium sulphate.

[0057] Stir for 10 minutes, heat to 60°C at a heating rate of 1.5°C / min, and keep warm for 30-35 minutes; in this embodiment, keep warm for 30 minutes.

[0058] The raw materials are 3-4% of heterobiactive reactive dye, 3-4g / L of penetrant, 1% of wool retarder, 2% of wool protective agent, 20-25g / L of sodium sulfate, and the pH value is adjusted to 11. In this embodiment, the heterobiactive reactive dye is 3%, the penetrant is 3g / L, and the sodium sulfate is 20g / L.

[0059] The temperature was raised to 70°C at a rate of 2°C / min, and kept at that temperature for 40-45min. The temperature was lowered to 50°C at a rate of 2°C / min. In this embodiment, the temperature was kept at that temperature for 40min.

[0060] Color fixing, formaldehyde-free color fixing agent 1-2%, anti-wrinkle finishing agent 0.5-1%, bath ratio 1:15, treatment time 25-30min; in this embodiment, formaldehyde-free color fixing agent 1%, anti-wrinkle finishing agent 0.5%, treatment time 25min.

[0061] Drain, cold water washing, ultrasonic soap washing, low temperature anti-staining soaping agent 2-3g / L, non-ionic surfactant 1.5-2g / L, temperature 65-70°C, time 15-20min, bath ratio 1:20; in this embodiment, low temperature anti-staining soaping agent 2g / L, non-ionic surfactant 1.5g / L, temperature 65°C, time 15min. 70°C hot water washing, cold water washing, drying.

[0062] Singeing, one positive and one negative, the burner temperature is 900℃, the speed is 120m / min;

[0063] Softening and shaping, non-ionic silicone oil softener 20-30g / L, two dipping and two rolling, shaping and drying temperature 120-125°C, shaping and drying time 40-60s; in this embodiment, non-ionic silicone oil softener 20g / L, shaping and drying temperature 120°C, shaping and drying time 40s.

[0064] Pre-shrink and drop the cloth to get the finished product.

[0065] Among them, enzyme scouring and cold pile alkali scouring and bleaching are used to remove impurities and improve the smoothness, wetting and penetration properties of the grey cloth to facilitate subsequent dyeing; chitosan modification includes dipping the grey cloth in chitosan solution twice, dehydrating and drying, to fully enhance the fiber's adsorption capacity for reactive dyes; dyeing includes three coloring processes of the grey cloth, the first coloring uses disperse dyes, and the second and third coloring use heterobiactive reactive dyes. Specifically,

[0066] During the first dyeing, the grey cloth is immersed in the first dyeing solution, and the low-temperature dyeing accelerator is added first, and then the disperse dye, the disperse leveling agent, and the wool protective agent are added, the bath ratio is 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 4.5-5.5 for dyeing. Before the second dyeing, the grey cloth is first reduced and cleaned, and then the grey cloth is immersed in the second dyeing solution containing heterobiactive reactive dyes and non-ionic surfactants, the bath ratio is 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 5; after stirring, sodium sulfate is added, the temperature is raised to 60°C, the heating rate is 1.5°C / min, and the temperature is kept for 30-35min for the second dyeing. During the third dyeing, continue to add heterobiactive reactive dyes, penetrants, wool retarder, wool protective agent, sodium sulfate to the second dyeing solution, the bath ratio is 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 11 for the third dyeing.

[0067] Example 2

[0068] The present embodiment provides a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric, which differs from Embodiment 1 in that, in the present embodiment, the cotton / silk blended yarn is 60s / 1; the 4C groove polyester yarn is 150D; the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 60s / 1; and the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 150D.

[0069] This embodiment provides a method for processing a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric. The difference between this method and embodiment 1 is that the parameters during the test are taken at the right threshold value. Specifically, in this embodiment:

[0070] Weaving, weaving the above-mentioned silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric as a grey fabric, and subjecting the grey fabric to the following processing;

[0071] Presetting, temperature 190℃, time 30s;

[0072] Singeing, two positive and one negative, burner temperature 1000℃, machine speed 120m / min;

[0073] Enzyme scouring, scouring enzyme 2.5g / L, penetrant 2g / L, bath ratio 1:10, immersion temperature 60℃, immersion time 60min;

[0074] Cold stack alkali scouring and bleaching, soda ash 18g / L, scouring agent 6g / L, 30% H2O2 15g / L, high-efficiency degreasing agent 10g / L, stabilizer 6g / L, defoamer 2g / L, dispersant 2g / L, cold stack temperature 30℃, cold stack time 22h;

[0075] Chitosan modification, water washing, dehydration; steaming, temperature 110℃, speed 50m / min;

[0076] Impregnate chitosan, concentration 0.5%, bath ratio 1:20, temperature 60℃, time 30min; squeeze dry;

[0077] Impregnate chitosan, concentration 0.5%, bath ratio 1:20, temperature 60°C, time 25min; dry.

[0078] dyeing:

[0079] Put the cloth in at room temperature and immerse it in low-temperature dyeing accelerator, concentration 10%, temperature 70℃, time 10min;

[0080] Feeding: 4% disperse dye, 0.5% disperse leveling agent, 2% wool protective agent, bath ratio 1:20, adjust pH value to 5.5;

[0081] Stir for 5 min, and heat to 105 °C at a rate of 1 °C / min;

[0082] Keep warm for 45 minutes, and dry;

[0083] Reduction cleaning, water washing;

[0084] Feeding: 2.5% of isobiactive reactive dye, 0.6g / L of nonionic surfactant, bath ratio 1:20, adjust pH to 5;

[0085] Add the cloth, stir for 10 minutes, add the material, 15g / L sodium sulfate;

[0086] Stir for 10 min, heat to 60 °C at a rate of 1.5 °C / min, and keep warm for 35 min;

[0087] Feeding: 4% of isobiactive reactive dye, 4g / L of penetrant, 1% of wool retarder, 2% of wool protective agent, 25g / L of sodium sulfate, adjust pH value to 11;

[0088] Heating to 70℃, heating rate 2℃ / min, keeping warm for 45min, cooling to 50℃, cooling rate 2℃ / min;

[0089] Color fixation, formaldehyde-free color fixative 2%, anti-wrinkle finishing agent 1%, bath ratio 1:15, processing time 30min;

[0090] Drain, wash with cold water, ultrasonic soaping, low temperature anti-staining soaping agent 3g / L, non-ionic surfactant 2g / L, temperature 70℃, time 20min, bath ratio 1:20;

[0091] Wash in 70℃ hot water, wash in cold water, and tumble dry.

[0092] Singeing, one positive and one negative, the burner temperature is 900℃, the speed is 120m / min;

[0093] Softening and shaping, non-ionic silicone oil softener 30g / L, two dips and two rolls, shaping and drying temperature 125℃, shaping and drying time 60s;

[0094] Pre-shrink and drop the cloth to get the finished product.

[0095] Comparative Example 1

[0096] The present embodiment provides a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric, which differs from Embodiment 1 in that, in the present embodiment, the first and fifth horizontal lines are threaded with blended yarn of linen / lycell fiber, the second and sixth horizontal lines are threaded with 4C grooved polyester yarn, the third and seventh horizontal lines are threaded with cotton / modal blended yarn, and the fourth and eighth horizontal lines are threaded with polyester / spandex core-spun yarn. At the same time, the same processing method as that in Embodiment 1 is adopted to obtain the finished fabric.

[0097] Comparative Example 2

[0098] The present embodiment provides a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric, which differs from Embodiment 1 in that, in the present embodiment, the cotton / silk blended yarn is 80s / 1; the 4C groove polyester yarn is 190D; the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 80s / 1; the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 190D, and the same processing method as that in Embodiment 1 is adopted to obtain the finished fabric.

[0099] Comparative Example 3

[0100] This embodiment provides a silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric with the same fabric structure as that of embodiment 1. The difference from embodiment 1 is the processing method. In this embodiment, the reactive dye is α-bromoacrylamide type reactive dye and no third coloring is performed.

[0101] Comparative Example 4

[0102] This embodiment provides a silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric with the same fabric structure as that of embodiment 1. The difference from embodiment 1 is in the processing method, and no reactive dye is added for dyeing in this embodiment.

[0103] The finished fabric obtained in Example 1 was tested for performance, and the test results are shown in the attached Figure 3 The test results of fabric dyeing performance are shown in the table. The test basis is: GB / T 22849-Knitted T-shirts.

[0104] The finished fabrics obtained in Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were tested for performance, and the test results are shown in the attached Figure 4 The test results of fabric physical properties are shown in the table. The test basis is: bursting strength ISO 13938-1:2004 method; pilling ISO 12945-2:2000 method; snagging GB / T 11047-2008 method.

[0105] It should be understood that the multiple examples described above can be utilized in multiple directions (such as tilted, inverted, horizontal, vertical, etc.) and in multiple configurations without departing from the principles of the present invention. The embodiments shown in the accompanying drawings are shown and described only as examples of effective application of the principles of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to any specific details of these embodiments.

[0106] Of course, once the above description of the representative embodiments is carefully considered, it will be readily understood by those skilled in the art that various modifications, additions, substitutions, deletions and other changes may be made to these specific embodiments, and these changes are within the scope of the principles of the present invention. Therefore, the foregoing detailed description should be clearly understood to be given only in an illustrative and exemplary manner, and the spirit and scope of the present invention are limited only by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric, characterized by: The fabric is provided with a knitted imitation woven twill pattern, and its front side presents a left twill appearance; the smallest circulation unit of the pattern is composed of eight horizontal rows of coils and four vertical rows of coils; specifically, the first horizontal route and the fifth horizontal route are penetrated with cotton / silk blended yarn, the second horizontal route and the sixth horizontal route are penetrated with 4C groove polyester yarn, the third horizontal route and the seventh horizontal route are penetrated with cotton / silk / wool blended yarn, and the fourth horizontal route and the eighth horizontal route are penetrated with polyester / spandex core-spun yarn; the odd-numbered horizontal routes in the one circulation unit are penetrated with spun yarn, and the even-numbered horizontal routes are penetrated with filament yarn thicker than the spun yarn in the odd-numbered horizontal routes; in the three-circle organization in which three looped coils are nested, the filament yarn is looped in the middle position, and the two spun yarns are looped in the upper and lower positions; in the two-circle organization in which two looped coils are nested, the filament yarn and the spun yarn are looped in the upper and lower positions, and the three-circle organization and the two-circle organization are both arranged obliquely.

2. The silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The three-loop structure adopts a single-needle double-row tuck structure to draw yarn from adjacent loops for protruding display.

3. The silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The cotton / silk blended yarn is 50s / 1-60s / 1, 90% cotton + 10% mulberry silk; the 4C groove polyester yarn is 120D-150D, 100% polyester; the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 50s / 1-60s / 1, 70% cotton + 20% mulberry silk + 10% wool; the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 120D-150D, 85% polyester + 15% spandex.

4. The silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The fabric is composed of 45% cotton + 41% polyester fiber + 5% mulberry silk + 5% wool + 4% spandex, with a longitudinal density of 140 horizontal rows / 5cm and a transverse density of 85 vertical lines / 5cm.

5. A method for processing a silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric, characterized in that: The method comprises the following steps: weaving→presetting→singeing→enzyme scouring→cold-batch alkali scouring and bleaching→chitosan modification→dehydration and drying→dyeing→singeing→softening and setting→preshrinking→finished product; wherein the grey cloth obtained by weaving is the silky breathable shuttle-like jacquard fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4; the enzyme scouring and cold-batch alkali scouring and bleaching are used to remove impurities and improve the smoothness, wetting and permeability of the grey cloth for subsequent dyeing; the chitosan modification comprises dipping the grey cloth in chitosan solution twice in succession, dehydrating and drying, so as to comprehensively enhance the fiber's adsorption capacity for active dyes; the dyeing comprises three coloring processes of the grey cloth, the first coloring adopts disperse dyes, and the second and third coloring adopt heterobiactive active dyes.

6. The method for processing a silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that: During the first dyeing, the grey cloth is immersed in the first dye solution, a low temperature dyeing accelerator is added first, and then disperse dyes, disperse leveling agents, and wool protective agents are added, with a bath ratio of 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 4.5-5.5 for dyeing.

7. The method for processing a silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that: Before the second coloring, the grey cloth is firstly reduced and cleaned, and then immersed in a second dyeing solution containing a heterobiactive reactive dye and a non-ionic surfactant, with a bath ratio of 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 5; after stirring, sodium sulfate is added, the temperature is raised to 60°C, the heating rate is 1.5°C / min, and the temperature is kept for 30-35min for the second coloring.

8. The method for processing a silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric as claimed in claim 7, characterized in that: During the third coloring, continue to add heterobiactive reactive dyes, penetrants, wool retarding agents, wool protective agents, and sodium sulfate into the second dye solution, with a bath ratio of 1:20, and adjust the pH value to 11 for the third coloring.

9. The method for processing a silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that: After the third coloring, the formaldehyde-free color fixing agent and anti-wrinkle finishing agent are used to fix the color of the grey cloth; after water washing and ultrasonic soap washing, the singeing process is entered.

10. The method for processing a silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that: The softening and shaping is carried out by using a non-ionic silicone oil softener, and the embryo cloth is twice dipped and twice rolled before being shaped and dried. The shaping and drying temperature is 120-125° C. and the time is 40-60 seconds.

Citation Information

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