Shirt with collar
By setting three folding strips and reinforcement belts on the periphery of the collar of the collar shirt, a bag-like structure is formed and preventing distortion, the problems of low aesthetics and easy peeling around the collar are solved, and higher aesthetics and durability are achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202510162533.8
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-07-25
- Filing Date
- 2023-03-07
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-18
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-03-07
AI Technical Summary
The collar and front circumference of the collar and front closure of the collar are relatively low, and it is prone to peeling or yellowing due to deterioration of the adhesive or improper cutting, which affects the aesthetics.
Three folding pieces are continuously arranged with the lord body and folded to the lord body, so that the peripheral edge of the lord forms a bag-like structure, and prevent peeling and yellowing through sewing and bonding techniques, and at the same time, a reinforcement belt is provided to prevent the collar from distorting.
Improves the aesthetics around the collar of the collar shirt, prevents peeling and yellowing of the collar from being peeled off and prevents the collar from distorting without using additional components.
Smart Images

Figure CN119837320A_ABST
Abstract
Description
This application is a divisional application of the Chinese invention patent application with application number: 202310208046.1, application date: March 7, 2023, and invention name “Collared shirt”. Technical Field
[0001] The invention relates to a collared shirt. Background Art
[0002] Patent Document 1 discloses a collared shirt having a collar and a front placket. Prior Art Literature Patent Literature
[0003] Patent Document 1: Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 57-35311 Summary of the invention (Problems to be solved by the invention)
[0004] Generally, the appearance of a collared shirt is easily evaluated by the collar and the periphery of the front placket, and therefore it is desired to improve the appearance of the collar and / or the periphery of the front placket.
[0005] An object of the present invention is to provide a collared shirt having an improved appearance around a collar and / or a placket. (Technical solutions to solve problems)
[0006] One embodiment of the present invention provides a shirt with a collar, comprising: a body; and a collar, which is sewn to the body and has: a belt-shaped collar main body, which, in a normal state with the front of the collar facing downward, constitutes a first surface located on the front side; and three folding pieces, which are continuously arranged with the collar main body and folded toward the collar main body to constitute a second surface located on the back side in the normal state, the collar main body having: a first long side portion, which is sewn to the body; a second long side portion, which is opposite to the first long side portion; and a pair of short sides, which connect the first long side portion and the second long side portion, and the three folding pieces are arranged on the second long side portion and the pair of short sides.
[0007] Generally, there is known a collar formed by preparing two pieces of collar cloth and joining the two pieces of collar cloth with an adhesive. If the two pieces of collar cloth are bonded together, sometimes the cross section of the collar peripheral portion is exposed when the two pieces of cloth bonded together are cut. When the collar is formed in this way, there is a possibility that the peripheral portion of the collar cloth bonded together may be peeled off, or the cross section of the peripheral portion may turn yellow due to deterioration of the adhesive.
[0008] According to the present invention, in a collar formed by overlapping at least two collar fabrics, if three folding pieces are folded so that the three folding pieces overlap with the collar body, the peripheral edge of the collar is sewn to the first long side of the body, and the end of the collar is formed into a bag shape by the folding piece and the collar body along the folding line formed by the second long side and a pair of short sides. Therefore, the cross section of the cut end of the component does not appear in the peripheral edge of the collar, and the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed from spreading. For example, even when the collar is bonded with an adhesive, the peeling and yellowing of the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed. As a result, the aesthetics of the collar periphery of the collar shirt can be improved.
[0009] It can also be that the three folding pieces include a main folding piece continuous with the second long side portion, and a pair of secondary folding pieces respectively continuous with the pair of short sides, the main folding piece having: a first main long side portion, which is composed of the second long side portion for the main folding piece to be folded; a second main long side portion, which is parallel to the first main long side portion; and a pair of main short sides, which connect the first main long side portion and the second main long side portion, and the pair of secondary folding pieces respectively have: a first secondary side portion, which is composed of the pair of short sides for the secondary folding piece to be folded; a second secondary side portion, which is inclined complementarily to the main short side portion when folded; and a third secondary side portion, which extends along the first long side portion.
[0010] According to the present structure, since a pair of main short sides of the main folding piece and the second secondary sides of each secondary folding piece are formed complementarily, when folded, the pair of main short sides are repeated with each second secondary side, so that the thickness difference (convexoconcavity) in the collar can be suppressed, and a collar with excellent aesthetics can be formed.
[0011] In addition, since the peripheral edge of the collar is formed into a bag shape by the folding lines formed by the second long side and the pair of short sides, it is possible to suppress the peripheral edge of the collar from unraveling, peeling and yellowing. In particular, even if the top of the collar front part after the collar seam is connected to the body is formed by the intersection of the second long side and the short sides, it is possible to suppress the top of the collar front part from unraveling, peeling and yellowing.
[0012] Alternatively, the collar is formed by bonding the collar body and the three folded pieces together.
[0013] According to this structure, if the three folding pieces are folded so that the three folding pieces overlap with the collar body, the peripheral portion of the collar, except for the first long side portion sewn to the body, is formed by the folding pieces and the collar body to become a bag-like shape along the folding line. Therefore, the cross-section of the cut end of the component does not appear in the peripheral portion of the collar. Therefore, as in the case of bonding the collar body and the overlapping pieces cut from the collar body, the peeling and yellowing of the peripheral portion of the collar can be suppressed. In addition, compared with the case where the collar body and the three folding pieces are sewn, the bulging of the front portion of the collar caused by the separation of the collar body and the folding pieces can be prevented, and a collar with excellent aesthetics can be formed.
[0014] Alternatively, the collar body and the three folded pieces of the collar are not bonded to each other and can be separated from each other.
[0015] According to this structure, when the three folding pieces are folded and overlapped with the collar body, the peripheral edge of the collar is formed by the folding pieces and the collar body to form a bag along the folding line, in addition to being sewn to the long side of the body. Therefore, the cross section of the cut end of the component does not appear at the peripheral edge of the collar. Therefore, it is possible to suppress the peripheral edge of the collar from spreading out.
[0016] Alternatively, the collar may include: a butt joint portion bonded to the pair of main short sides of the main folded piece and the second secondary sides of the pair of secondary folded pieces in a butt joint state; and a reinforcing belt extending along the butt joint portion.
[0017] According to the present structure, the butt joint portion where the pair of main short sides butt joint with the pair of second secondary sides extends from the top of the collar front portion after the collar seam is connected to the back of the bodice toward the first long side portion sewn to the bodice of the collar main body. Thus, the reinforcing band provided along the butt joint portion functions as a so-called collar stay for preventing the front end of the collar from warping or other deformation, thereby preventing the collar from deforming without providing other components for the collar stay.
[0018] Alternatively, a core material may be provided between the collar body and the three folding pieces.
[0019] According to this configuration, the core material can suppress the collar from being deformed, thereby adjusting the shape of the collar.
[0020] Another embodiment of the present invention may also be that the collared shirt comprises a front body, the front body comprising a right front body portion located on the right side of the body width and a left front body portion located on the left side of the body width, the right front body portion and the left front body portion respectively comprising a folded portion folded to the back side of the front body at the center side in the body width direction, the collared shirt also comprising a front lapel component adjacent to the inner edge portion of the folded portion in the body width direction and extending along the body length direction of the front body, the front lapel component comprising: a front front lapel portion, which is located on the surface side of the front body; and a back front lapel portion, which is continuous with the inner end portion of the front front lapel portion in the body width direction and is located on the back side of the front front lapel portion, and extends toward the outside in the width direction, relative to the folded end portion outside the body width direction of the folded portion, at least one of the front lapel end portion outside the body width direction of the front front lapel portion and the back lapel end portion outside the body width direction of the back front lapel portion are arranged in a staggered position in the body width direction.
[0021] Generally, the front part of a POLO shirt is composed of: the outer end in the body width direction of the folded portion formed by folding the front body, i.e. the folded end; the outer end in the body width direction of the front front part of the front body which is seamed in the front part, i.e. the front front end; and the outer end in the body width direction of the back front part which is continuous from the inner end in the body width direction of the front front part and arranged on the back side of the front front part, i.e. the back front end. The positions of the three in the body width direction are consistent.
[0022] In this case, the ends of the front placket may be concentrated around the front placket of the front body, which may cause the concentration of the ends of the front placket to appear as undesirable bumps on the front side, thereby damaging the appearance, or the ends of the POLO shirt may abut against the wearer, causing discomfort. In more detail, the thickness of the placket formed by overlapping multiple fabrics (for example, the front body, the folded part, the front placket and the back placket) and the front body (one piece) is different, and a step difference is generated at the ends of the placket (the ends of the folded part, the front placket and the back placket in the body width direction). This step difference appears on the surface side of the shirt, which sometimes damages the appearance, or the step part abuts against the wearer and causes friction.
[0023] In contrast, according to the present invention, by staggering the positions of the ends of the fabric around the front part, the step difference around the front part relative to the front body is reduced compared to the case where the positions of the folded end, the front front part, and the back front part are consistent in the body width direction. As a result, it is possible to reduce the situation where the ends of a plurality of fabrics are concentrated around the front part of the front body, which causes unexpected bumps on the surface side, or causes discomfort to the wearer. More specifically, it is possible to prevent the thickness of the fabric from being different between the front part and the front body, which are formed by overlapping a plurality of fabrics, and the step difference from occurring at the end of the front part, which appears on the surface side and impairs the appearance, or the step part abuts against the wearer and causes friction. As a result, it is possible to prevent the step part from appearing as an undesirable bump on the surface side and impairing the appearance, and the appearance of the collar periphery of the collared shirt can be improved. Moreover, it is possible to prevent the discomfort caused by the step part abutting against the wearer.
[0024] The width from the inner edge portion to the rear front edge portion may be set larger than the width of the folded portion.
[0025] Since the back front end is located outside the folded end in the body width direction, the folded end is covered by the back front part on the inside (wearer side) of the POLO shirt, and the appearance from the inside is excellent.
[0026] The width from the inner edge portion to the front edge portion of the front placket may be set smaller than the width of the folded portion.
[0027] Since the front front end is located at a position closer to the body width direction than the folded end, the folded end and the front front end are located at the body width direction inner side compared to the back front end. Thus, the folded end and the front front end are covered by the back front part, and the aesthetics from the inside are more excellent. In addition, compared with the case where the width from the inner edge to the front front end is set larger than the width of the folded part, the area of the cloth overlapped part where the step difference becomes large in the front part can be reduced.
[0028] It is also possible that a strip of lining cloth extending along the front lapel portion in the direction of body length is sandwiched between the front lapel portion and the back front lapel portion, and the lining cloth end portion on the outside in the body width direction of the lining cloth is arranged in a manner that is staggered in the body width direction from the folded end portion, the front lapel end portion, and the back lapel end portion.
[0029] According to this structure, even when the lining cloth is clamped at the front placket, the step difference around the front placket relative to the front body can be reduced by staggering the positions of the end of the lining cloth, the folded end, the front placket end, and the back placket end in the body width direction.
[0030] The width from the inner edge to the lining cloth end may be set to be less than the width from the inner edge to the front placket end.
[0031] Compared with the case where the width from the inner edge to the lining cloth end is set larger than the width from the inner edge to the front placket end, the area of the overlapping portion of the cloth having a large step difference at the placket can be reduced.
[0032] Alternatively, the width of the back front placket may increase from the bottom toward the top.
[0033] Since the width of the back front part widens from the chest side located at the bottom in the body length direction to the neckline side located at the top, it is easier to position the outer end of the back front part at a position further outward in the body width direction than the clavicle part of the wearer located at the center in the body width direction, compared with a case where the outer end of the back front part extends in the body length direction with the width of the straight part. It is easier to suppress the discomfort caused by the outer end contacting the clavicle part.
[0034] The back front placket end portion may include a straight portion located below and a curved portion that is continuous with the straight portion and curves upward and outward in the body width direction.
[0035] Since the width of the back front placket end is smoothly widened by the curved portion, the discomfort caused by the portion changing from the straight portion to the curved portion contacting the wearer can be suppressed. Specifically, compared with the case where the curved portion and the straight portion are continuous and inclined upward toward the outside of the body width direction, the straight portion, the curved portion and the corner portion are less likely to be generated, and the discomfort caused by the corner portion contacting the wearer can be suppressed. (Effects of the Invention)
[0036] In the collared shirt of the present invention, the aesthetics of the collar and / or the periphery of the front placket can be improved. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0037] Figure 1 It is a front view of a POLO shirt (collared shirt) according to the present invention. Figure 2 It is a rear view of the POLO shirt involved in the present invention. Figure 3 It is a partial enlarged view of the collar periphery of the POLO shirt according to the present invention in a normal state after the collar is folded over. Figure 4 This is a diagram schematically showing the development of the collar before it is sewn to the body. Figure 5 The figure schematically shows a development view of a collar before the folding piece is folded. Figure 6 It is along Figure 4 A cross-sectional view taken along line VI-VI. Figure 7 This is an enlarged view of the center portion in the body width direction of the front body before the front placket and the collar seam are connected. Figure 8 yes Figure 7 An enlarged view of the folded portion of the front body of the garment after being folded. Fig. 9 It is a partially enlarged view of the periphery of the front placket of the POLO shirt according to the present invention in a state where the collar is raised. Fig.10 It is along Fig. 9 A sectional stereogram of line XX in FIG. Fig.11 It is a collar with core material and Fig.10 The corresponding cross-sectional view. Fig.12 It is an expanded view and a front view showing a deformation example of the collar. Fig.13 It is an expanded view and a front view showing other deformation examples of the collar. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0038] Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
[0039] Figure 1 This is a front view of a collared shirt as one embodiment of the present invention. In the following, regarding the POLO shirt 1, the up and down, left and right, and front and back of the POLO shirt 1 are determined based on the state of the wearer wearing the POLO shirt 1 standing upright. In addition, the direction from the outer surface in the thickness direction of the fabric toward the inside is the inside, the opposite direction is the outside, the direction toward the outside in the body width direction is the outside, and the direction toward the center side in the body width direction is the inside. Figure 1 The POLO shirt 1 is made of, for example, cloth or even knitted fabric, and has a body 2 having a front body 21 and a back body 25 , a pair of left and right sleeves 4 , a collar 5 , and a front part 6 .
[0040] like Figure 1 and Figure 2 As shown, the body 2 has a front body 21 and a back body 25. The front body 21 and the back body 25 are sewn at the two end portions 21a and 25a in the body width direction, except for the portion where the left and right sleeves are sewn. The front body 21 and the back body 25 are sewn at the upper edge portions 21b and 25b in the body length direction, except for the portion where the collar 5 is connected. The left and right sleeves 4 are sewn at the side edges 21c and 25c between the two end portions 21a and 25a and the upper edge portions 21b and 25b. In addition, the front body 21, the back body 25, the sleeves 4, the collar 5 and other components can also be joined by bonding, ultrasonic bonding, etc. instead of sewing. In addition, when the parts such as the body and the sleeves are joined to each other, either sewing or bonding can be used.
[0041] Reference Figure 3 to Figure 5 and Fig. 9 Explain collar 5. Figure 3 Indicates the normal state of the collar 5 with the front of the collar facing downward. Fig. 9 Indicates the state of the collar standing up. Figure 4 The collar 5 is shown before being sewn to the body 2. Figure 5 3 shows a state before the collar 5 is cut from the cloth and the folding pieces 52, 53, 54 described later are folded. Hereinafter, regarding the collar 5, the surface located on the front side in the normal state is referred to as the first surface, and the surface located on the back side in the normal state is referred to as the second surface.
[0042] Reference Figure 3 The collar 5 is installed in a manner that straddles the upper ends of the front body 21 and the back body 25, and is arranged in a manner that surrounds the neck of the wearer when worn. The collar 5 is folded toward the outside of the neck along the circumferential direction of the neck.
[0043] Reference Figure 4 In this embodiment, the collar 5 is made of cotton, linen, polyester, etc., and has a rectangular and belt-like shape. The collar 5 has a pair of opposing long sides 5a, 5b and a pair of opposing short sides 5c, 5d. In this embodiment, the length of each long side 5a, 5b is, for example, substantially consistent with the circumference L3 of the peripheral edge of the neck. The length of each short side 5c, 5d is set to a predetermined height H1 according to the design of the height of the collar.
[0044] In this embodiment, the angle a1 of the corner 5e formed by the long sides 5a, 5b and the short sides 5c, 5d is approximately 90 degrees. The angle a1 of the corner 5e is not limited to 90 degrees, and can be an acute angle or an obtuse angle depending on the design of the collar.
[0045] Reference Figure 5 The collar 5 has a belt-shaped collar body 51 and three folding pieces 52, 53, 54 provided continuously with the collar body 51. The collar 5 is sewn to the body 2 in a state where the three folding pieces 52, 53, 54 are folded in a manner overlapping the collar body 51. The collar 5 is sewn to the body 2 in a manner where the collar body 51 constitutes a first surface located on the outside in a normal state, and the folding pieces 52, 53, 54 constitute a second surface located on the inside. In other words, the entirety of the collar body 51 constitutes the first surface of the collar 5, and the entirety of the folding pieces 52, 53, 54 constitutes the second surface of the collar 5.
[0046] The collar body 51 includes: a first long side 51a sewn to the body 2; a second long side 51b opposite to the first long side 51a; and a pair of short sides 51c and 51d connecting the first long side 51a and the second long side 51b. The lengths of the first long side 51a and the second long side 51b are the same as the long sides 5a and 5b of the collar 5. The height H1 of the pair of short sides 51c and 51d is set to be higher than the height of the collar 5 by the seam allowance. The first long side 51a, the second long side 51b, and the pair of short sides 51c and 51d of the collar body 51 form the outer shape of the collar in a completed state, that is, the pair of long sides 5a and 5b and the pair of short sides 5c and 5d.
[0047] The three folding pieces 52, 53, 54 are provided continuously with the second long side 51b and the pair of short sides 51c, 51d. More specifically, the three folding pieces 52, 53, 54 include a main folding piece 52 continuous with the second long side 51b and a pair of auxiliary folding pieces 53, 54 continuous with the pair of short sides 51c, 51d.
[0048] like Figure 5 As indicated by the two-dot chain arrows, the three folded pieces 52 , 53 , 54 are folded at the second long side 51 b and the pair of short sides 51 c , 51 d , respectively, and the three folded pieces 52 , 53 , 54 overlap with the collar body 51 .
[0049] The main folding piece 52 is a trapezoidal shape having a first main long side 52a formed by a second long side 51b for folding the main folding piece 52, a second main long side 52b opposite to the first main long side 52a, and first and second main short sides 52c and 52d connecting the first main long side 52a and the second main long side 52b. Depending on the design of the collar 5, the main folding piece 52 may also be a rectangular shape.
[0050] In this embodiment, the length of the first main long side 52a is consistent with the length L3 of the second long side 51b, and the length L4 of the second main long side 52b is shorter than the first main long side 52a. Since the first main long side 52a and the second main long side 52b are formed in a manner that the centers in the length direction are consistent, the first and second main short sides 52c and 52d that respectively connect the two ends of the first main long side 52a and the second main long side 52b are inclined toward each other from the first main long side 52a toward the second main long side 52b. The collar 5 is line symmetrical with respect to the center line C extending in the body length direction through the center of the long side 5a of the collar 5.
[0051] The height of the main folding piece 52 matches the height H1 of the short sides 51c and 51d of the collar body 51. That is, in the folded state, the second main long side 52b overlaps the first long side 51a of the collar body 51 and extends along the first long side 51a in the circumferential direction of the neck.
[0052] A pair of auxiliary folding pieces 53, 54 respectively have: a first auxiliary side portion 53a, 54a composed of short side portions 51c, 51d for folding the auxiliary folding pieces 53, 54; Figure 3 ) below, a second secondary side portion 53b formed complementarily to the third and fourth main short sides 52c, 52d; and a third secondary side portion 53c extending along the first long side portion 51a. The so-called complementarity is not limited to the main short sides 52c, 52d and the second secondary sides 53b, 54b having to be butted against each other, but also includes the situation where the main short sides 52c, 52d and the second secondary sides 53b, 54b overlap or separate due to errors caused by cutting of the collar pattern, errors when folding each folding piece, etc. In addition, in the case where the main short sides 52c, 52d and the second secondary sides 53b, 54b are separated, the reinforcing tape 56 described later (see Figure 3 as well as Figure 4 ) covers the opposing parts to inhibit peeling of each folding piece.
[0053] like Figure 4 As shown in the enlarged view, the sum of the angle a2 formed by the first main long side 52a and the first and second main short sides 52c, 53c and the angle a3 formed by the first and second short sides 52c, 52d and the second and third secondary sides 53b, 54b is the angle a1 of the corner 5e. Preferably, the difference between the angle a2 and the angle a3 is small, and more preferably, the angle α2 and the angle α3 are substantially consistent.
[0054] Reference Figure 3 and Figure 4 When the three folding pieces 52, 53, 54 overlap with the collar body 51, the peripheral portions 5a, 5b, 5c, 5b of the collar 5 are sewn to the first long side 51a of the garment body, and the ends of the collar 5 are formed into a bag shape along the folding line by the folding pieces 52, 53, 54 and the collar body 51. In other words, the cross-section of the cut ends of the parts of the collar 5 will not appear at the peripheral portions 5a, 5b, 5c, 5b of the collar 5.
[0055] like Figure 5 As shown, in this embodiment, the angle a1 of the corner 5e is 90 degrees, and in the state before folding, the angle a4 of the first and second main short sides 52c, 52d relative to the first main long side 52a is consistent with the angle a5 of the second secondary sides 53b, 54b relative to the first long side 51a. As a result, the first and second main short sides 52c, 52d and the second secondary sides 53b, 54b are respectively formed into a continuous straight line, so that the arrangement of the collar pattern relative to the material (cloth before cutting) and even the efficiency of cutting and the yield rate are easily improved.
[0056] Reference Figure 4The collar 5 has a butt joint portion 55 where the first and second main short sides 52c, 52d of the main folding piece 52 and the second secondary sides 53b, 54b of the pair of secondary folding pieces 53, 54 are respectively bonded in a butt joint state. More specifically, the first and second main short sides 52c, 52d and the second secondary sides 53b, 54b are respectively bonded by the butt joint portion 55 that is butt jointed with each other. The butt joint portion 55 is bonded, for example, by ultrasonic bonding (ultrasonic bonding) that bonds while cutting the fabric. The butt joint portion 55 may be sewn instead of bonded.
[0057] like Figure 3 , Figure 4 and Fig. 9 As shown in FIG. 1 , the butt joint portion 55 extends from the top 5f of the front portion of the collar after the collar 5 is sewn to the body 2 to the first long side 51a of the collar body 51 sewn to the body 2. In other words, Figure 4 As shown, in the state before being sewn to the body, the butt joint portion 55 is inclined toward the inside in the width direction of the collar 5 from the top 5f toward the first long side 51a.
[0058] like Figure 5 As shown, an adhesive tape (e.g., a styrene-based elastomer resin tape, etc.) 57 made of, for example, a sheet-like thermoplastic resin composition is attached to the inner surface (the surface opposite to the first surface) of the collar body 51. The adhesive tape 57 has a property of solidifying and bonding by being pressed in a heated and molten state and then cooled (so-called hot-melt adhesiveness). The adhesive tape 57 is not limited to a thermoplastic resin composition, and may be, for example, a polyurethane-based hot-melt resin, a polyamide-based hot-melt resin, an EVA-based hot-melt resin, a polyolefin-based hot-melt resin, a styrene-based hot-melt resin, etc.
[0059] The adhesive tape 57 may be in a mesh shape in addition to a sheet shape. When the adhesive tape 57 is in a sheet shape, since it is attached to the substantially front surface of the collar body 51, there is no air permeability, and a collar with a warp (opening) can be formed. On the other hand, when the adhesive tape 57 is in a mesh shape, for example, a grid-shaped, soft collar can be formed compared to the case of attaching the sheet-shaped adhesive tape 57.
[0060] The collar body 51 and the three folded pieces 52 , 53 , 54 are bonded to each other via the adhesive tape 57 by being pressed while being heated in a state where the three folded pieces 52 , 53 , 54 are folded over the surface of the collar body 51 to which the adhesive tape 57 is attached.
[0061] like Figure 6 As shown, the collar 5 manufactured in this way has a three-layer structure of a collar body 51, a hot-melt layer composed of an adhesive tape 57, and folded pieces 52, 53, and 54.
[0062] Reference Figure 3 and Figure 4The collar 5 has a reinforcing band 56 extending along the butt joint 55. The reinforcing band 56 is made of, for example, thermoplastic polyurethane. For example, thermoplastic polyurethane with a width of 4 mm can be used. By providing the reinforcing band 56 at the butt joint 55, the adhesion of the butt joint 55 is strengthened and peeling is suppressed.
[0063] like Figure 6 As shown, in this embodiment, the thickness T1 of the collar 5 at the portion where the reinforcing tape 56 is attached is 1.03 mm to 1.16 mm. The thickness T2 of the collar at the portion where the reinforcing tape 56 is not attached is 0.86 mm to 0.93 mm. The bending rigidity of the portion where the reinforcing tape 56 is attached is improved compared to the portion where the reinforcing tape 56 is not attached.
[0064] exist Figure 7 2 shows an enlarged view of the center portion of the front body 21 in the body width direction before the front placket member 6 and the collar 5 are sewn together. Figure 8 Shown in Figure 7 The folded portions 22a and 23a of the front body 21 are folded in an enlarged view. Figure 7 On the front body 21, a slit S in the shape of an inverted Y having a length from the upper edge portion 21b located at the upper edge in the body length direction to the approximately chest portion is provided at the approximately center portion in the body width direction. The slit S includes a linear up-down direction portion S1 extending in the body length direction, and a pair of left and right inclined portions S2 inclined downward from the lower end of the up-down direction portion S1 toward the outer side in the body width direction. The pair of left and right inclined portions S2 are provided in a line-symmetrical manner with respect to the up-down direction portion S1.
[0065] The front body 21 includes a front body right portion 22 and a front body left portion 23 located on the right side across the up-down direction portion S1. The front body right portion 22 and the front body left portion 23 each include a pair of left and right folded portions 22a, 23a folded to the back side of the body 2 at the center side in the body width direction, and a lower folded portion 23d folded downward and to the back side of the body 2 at the center portion in the body width direction.
[0066] The pair of left and right folding parts 22a, 23a are divided by the vertical direction part S1, the inclined part S2, the folding lines 22b, 23b extending from the lower end of the inclined part S2 parallel to the vertical direction part S1 and in the body length direction, and the upper edge 21b of the front body right part 22 and the front body left part 23. The folding lines 22b, 23b are as shown in FIG. Figure 8 As shown, when the folded portions 22a and 23a are folded, the inner edge portions 22b and 23b are located at the inner edge of the folded portions 22a and 23a in the body width direction. The width W1 of the folded portions 22a and 23a in the body width direction is half the width W2 between the lower ends of the pair of left and right inclined portions S2.
[0067] The lower folded portion 23d is a triangular portion formed by a pair of left and right inclined portions S2 and extending in the body width direction between the lower ends of the inclined portions S2 and divided by a fold line 23e. Figure 8 As shown, when the lower folded portion 23d is folded, an upper edge portion 23e is located at the upper edge of the lower folded portion 23d in the body length direction.
[0068] like Figure 8 As shown, when the folded portions 22a and 23a are folded, a rectangular opening 24 extending downward from the upper edge of the front body 21 in the body length direction is formed in the front body 21. The width of the opening 24 is consistent with the width W2 between the lower ends of the inclined portion S2.
[0069] Reference Fig. 9 The front body 21 further includes a front part 6 which is adjacent to the inner side of the inner edge 22b, 23b of the folded parts 22a, 23a in the body width direction and extends along the body length direction of the body 2. The front part 6 includes a pair of left and right front parts 61, 62 respectively provided on the front body right part 22 and the front body left part 23. The pair of left and right front parts 61, 62 overlap in a length from the upper end part in the body length direction to the approximately chest part along the folded parts 22a, 23a in the body width direction.
[0070] The front part 61 is an inner part located on the inner side and is provided with a button 6a for maintaining the overlap. The front part 62 is an outer part 62 located on the outer side and is provided with a buttonhole 6b for the button 6a to be inserted. In the front closed state formed by the overlap of the left and right front parts 61 and 62, the opening 24 of the front body 21 is covered from the front side by the left and right front parts 61 and 62.
[0071] Fig.10 It is along Fig. 9 The sectional stereogram of line XX in . Fig.10 In order to facilitate understanding of the structure of the front part 6, the thickness of the fabric piece is emphasized. Fig.10 The inner part 61 and the outer part 62 are formed into a bag shape by the front front part 61a, 62a located on the front side of the garment body 2, and the inner end parts 61b, 62b located on the inner end parts of the front front part 61a, 62a in the body width direction, and the back front part 61c, 62c continuously located on the back side of the front front part 61a and extending toward the outside in the body width direction. The left and right directions (inside and outside in the body width direction) of the inner part 61 and the outer part 62 are opposite, but since they have substantially the same structure, only the inner part 61 will be described.
[0072] The front placket 61a includes a main body 61d disposed at the opening 24 and a hem 61e sewn to the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a. The front placket 61a is sewn to the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a of the front body 21 between the main body 61d and the hem 61e.
[0073] The main body 61d is in a rectangular shape corresponding to the opening 24, and extends from the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a toward the inner side of the body width direction to the vicinity of the inner edge 22b of the folded portion 23a of the front right portion 22. The width of the main body 61d in the body width direction is substantially the same as the width W2 of the opening 24. The length L1 of the front front part 61a in the body width direction of the front body 21 is set to be longer than the length L2 of the opening 24 (see FIG. Fig. 9 ).
[0074] The hem portion 61e is continuous with the outer side of the body width direction of the main body portion 61d, and extends from the inner edge portion 23b of the folded portion 23a to the outer side in the body width direction. The width W3 of the hem portion 61e in the body width direction (the dimension from the inner edge portion 23b of the folded portion 23a to the outer end portion 61f of the hem portion 61e in the body width direction) is set to be smaller than the width W1 of the folded portion 22a (the dimension from the inner edge portion 23b of the folded portion 23a to the outer end portion 23c of the folded portion 23a in the body width direction). For example, the width W3 of the hem portion 61e in the body width direction is preferably set to be less than 0.4 of the width W1 of the folded portion 23a. Alternatively, the width W1 of the folded portion 23a is preferably set to be greater than the width W3 of the hem portion 61e in the body width direction by 5 mm or more. In other words, it is preferred that the end portion 23c of the folded portion 23a and the outer end portion 61f of the hem portion 61e are separated by more than 5 mm in the body width direction. In the present embodiment, the width W3 of the hem portion 61e in the body width direction is set to 6 mm, and the width W1 of the folded portion 23a is set to 15 mm.
[0075] like Fig. 9 As shown, the back front part 61c extends from the inner end 61b of the front front part 61a toward the outside of the body width direction to a position outside the outer end 23c of the folded part 23a. The inner end 61b of the back front part 61c is formed by a straight line extending along the opening 24 in the body length direction.
[0076] like Fig.10As shown, the outer end portion 61g of the back front part 61c includes: a straight portion 61h, which extends in the body length direction along the opening portion 24 at the lower side in the body length direction; and a curved portion 61e, which extends further upward from the upper end of the straight portion 61h to the upper edge portion 21b of the front body 21. The curved portion 61e is curved toward the upper side in the body length direction and toward the outer side in the body width direction. The outer end portion 61g of the back front part 61c expands in the body width direction from the lower side in the body length direction toward the upper side. Therefore, the outer end portion 61g of the back front part 61c is located at the outer side in the body width direction compared with the straight portion 61f, and the outer end portion 61g of the back front part 61c is separated from the outer end portion 23c of the folded portion 23a from the lower side to the upper side. In other words, the width of the back front part 61c increases from the chest located at the bottom in the body length direction toward the neckline at the top, so compared with the case where the outer end 61g of the back front part 61c extends in the body length direction by the width of the straight part 61h, it is easy to position the outer end 61g at a position closer to the outside of the wearer's clavicle located at the center in the body width direction in the body width direction. It is easy to suppress the discomfort caused by the outer end 61g contacting the clavicle.
[0077] The width W4 in the body width direction from the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a of the back front part 61c to the outer end 61g in the body width direction is set to be larger than the width W1 of the folded portion 23a. For example, the width W4 is preferably set to be 1.3 times or more of the width W1 of the folded portion 23a. Alternatively, the width W4 is preferably set to be 5 mm or more larger than the width W1. In other words, it is preferred that the end 23c of the folded portion 23a and the outer end 61g in the body width direction of the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a of the back front part 61c are separated by more than 5 mm in the body width direction. In the present embodiment, the width W4 is set to be greater than 20 mm and less than 35 mm.
[0078] The outer end 61g of the back front part 61c is located at a position closer to the outside in the body width direction than the outer end 23c of the folded part 23a and the outer end 61f of the seam part 61e. On the inner side (wearer side) of the POLO shirt 1, the outer end 23c of the folded part 23a and the outer end 61f of the front front part 61a are covered by the back front part 61c, so the aesthetics from the inside are excellent.
[0079] Reference Fig. 9 and Fig.10In the present embodiment, a strip-shaped lining cloth 63 extending in the body length direction along the lining part 6 is sandwiched between the front lining part 61a and the back lining part 61c. The lining cloth 63 is an adhesive lining cloth bonded to the front lining part 61a, and the fabric is made of knitted, 100% polyester, and the adhesive resin is made of polyamide resin, polyurethane resin, etc. In the present embodiment, the lining cloth 63 is in a so-called non-seamless state in which it is not bonded to the back lining part 61c and floats. The lining cloth 63 extends from the inner end 61b of the front lining part 61a to a position closer to the outside in the body width direction than the inner edge 23b of the folded part 23a. Under the same body length direction dimension L1 as the inner part 61, the width of the lining cloth 63 in the body width direction is larger than the width W2 of the opening 24. In other words, the outer end 63a of the lining cloth 63 is located outside the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a in the body width direction and inside the outer end 61f of the front placket portion 61a in the body width direction.
[0080] The lining cloth 63 is sewn to the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a of the front body 21, similarly to the front front part 61a. In the present embodiment, the lining cloth 63 is sewn to the front body 21 in a state where it is bonded to the front front part 61a. The width W5 from the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a to the outer end 63a of the lining cloth 63 is set to be smaller than the width W3 of the seam portion 61e. For example, the width W5 is preferably set to be less than 1 / 3 of the width W1 of the folded portion 23a, and in the present embodiment, the width W5 is set to 5 mm. The width W3 may also be the same as the width W5.
[0081] The inner member 61 and the lining cloth 63 are integrally sewn along the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a in a state where they overlap on the front side of the left front body portion 23. When the folded portion 23a is folded along the inner edge 23b while the inner member 61 and the lining cloth 63 are sewn to the left front body portion 23, the folded portion 23a, the front front part 61a and the seam edge 61e, the lining cloth 63 and the back front part 61c overlap in order from the front side to the back side on the back side of the left front body portion 23.
[0082] like Fig.10 As shown, the folded end 23c of the folded portion 23a on the outside in the body width direction, the outer end (front front end) 61f of the front front portion 61a on the outside in the body width direction (seam edge portion 61e), the outer end (back front end) 61g of the back front portion 61c on the outside in the body width direction, and the outer end (lining cloth end) 63a of the lining cloth 63 on the outside in the body width direction are arranged in staggered positions in the body width direction.
[0083] The POLO shirt 1 configured in this manner has the following features.
[0084] According to the present invention, when the three folding pieces 52, 53, 54 are folded and overlapped with the collar body 51, the peripheral portions 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5 are sewn to the first long side 51a of the body 2, and the ends are formed into a bag shape along the folding line by the folding pieces 52, 53, 54 and the collar body 51. Therefore, the cross section of the cut end of the component does not appear on the peripheral portions 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5, and the peeling and yellowing of the peripheral portions 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5 can be suppressed. In addition, compared with the case where the collar body 51 and the three folding pieces 52, 53, 54 are sewn together, the bulging of the front portion of the collar caused by the separation of the collar body 51 and the folding pieces 52, 53, 54 can be prevented, and the collar 5 with excellent aesthetics can be formed.
[0085] Since the pair of main short sides 52c, 52d of the main folding piece 52 and the second secondary sides 53b, 54b of each secondary folding piece 53, 54 are formed complementarily, when folded, the pair of main short sides 52c, 52d and the second secondary sides 53b, 54b overlap, which can suppress the thickness difference (convexoconcavity) in the collar 5 and form a collar with excellent aesthetics.
[0086] The peripheral portions 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5 are formed into a bag shape at the end of the collar 5 by the folding lines formed by the second long side portion 51b and the pair of short sides 51c, 51d, so that it is possible to suppress the unraveling, peeling and yellowing of the peripheral portions 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5. In particular, the top portion 5f of the collar front portion after the collar 5 is sewn to the body is formed by the intersection of the second long side portion 51b and the short sides 51c, 51d, so it is possible to suppress the unraveling, peeling and yellowing of the top portion 5f of the collar front portion.
[0087] The butted portion 55, which is a portion where the pair of main short sides 52c, 52d and the pair of second secondary sides 53b, 54b butt against each other, extends from the top 5f of the front portion of the collar after the collar 5 is sewn to the bodice to the first long side 51a sewn to the bodice of the collar body 51. Thus, the reinforcing band 56 provided along the butt portion 55 functions as a so-called collar stay for preventing the front end of the collar 5 from warping or other deformation, and thus the deformation of the collar 5 can be suppressed without providing other components for the collar stay.
[0088] Generally, the elastic front lapel component is formed by: the folded outer end portion which is the outer end portion in the body width direction of the folded portion formed by folding the front body, the front lapel end portion which is the outer end portion in the body width direction of the front lapel portion of the front body sewn in the front lapel component, and the back lapel end portion which is continuous from the inner end portion in the body width direction of the front lapel portion and arranged on the back side of the front lapel portion as the outer end portion in the body width direction of the back lapel portion, and their positions in the body width direction are consistent.
[0089] In this case, the ends of the front placket may be concentrated around the front placket of the front body, which may cause the concentration of the ends of the front placket to appear as undesirable bumps on the surface side, thereby damaging the aesthetics, or the ends of the front placket may abut against the wearer, causing discomfort. In more detail, the thickness of the placket component composed of multiple fabrics (for example, the front body, the folded part, the front placket part and the back placket part) and the front body (one piece) is different, and a step difference is generated at the ends of the placket component (the ends of the folded part, the front placket part and the back placket part in the body width direction). This step appears on the surface side, which sometimes damages the aesthetics, or the step part abuts against the wearer and causes friction.
[0090] In contrast, the folded end 23c, the front front end 61e, and the back front end 61f of the POLO shirt 1 in the present embodiment are staggered in the body width direction, so compared with the case where the folded end 23c, the front front end 61e, and the back front end 61f are aligned in the body width direction, the step difference of the front part can be reduced, and the discomfort felt by the wearer due to the concentration of the ends of multiple fabrics around the front part of the front body can be reduced. More specifically, by staggering the positions of the ends of the fabrics around the front part, the step difference around the front part of the front body is reduced from three pieces of the folded part, the front front part, and the back front part to only one piece of the back front part. Furthermore, as in the present embodiment, when a lining cloth is provided, the position of the lining cloth end 63a in the body width direction is also offset from the respective end positions of the folded end 23c, the front front end 61e, and the back front end 61f, so that the step difference is reduced from the folded portion, the front front portion, the back front portion, and the lining cloth to only the back front portion. As a result, it is possible to suppress the step portion from being undesirably uneven on the surface side and damaging the appearance, and to improve the appearance of the collar periphery of the collared shirt. Furthermore, it is possible to suppress the discomfort caused by the step portion contacting the wearer.
[0091] Since the back front end 61g is located outside the folded end 23c in the body width direction, the folded end 23c is covered by the back front end 61c on the inside (wearer side) of the POLO shirt 1, and the appearance from the inside is excellent.
[0092] Since the front front end 61f is located at a position closer to the body width direction than the folded end 23c, the folded end 23c and the front front end 61f are located at a position closer to the body width direction than the back front end 61g. Thus, the folded end 23c and the front front end 61f are covered by the back front part 61c, and the aesthetics from the inside are more excellent. In addition, compared with the case where the width W3 from the inner edge 23b to the front front end 61f is set to be larger than the width W1 of the folded part 23a, the area of the part where the cloth overlaps with a large step difference in the front part can be reduced.
[0093] Compared with the case where the width W5 from the inner edge 23b to the lining cloth end 63a is set larger than the width W3 from the inner edge 23b to the front placket end 61f, the area of the overlapping portion of the cloth having a large step difference at the placket can be reduced.
[0094] Since the width of the back front part 61c increases from the chest side located at the bottom in the body length direction toward the neckline side at the top, it is easier to position the outer end 61g of the back front part 61c at a position further outward in the body width direction than the clavicle of the wearer located at the center in the body width direction, compared with the case where the outer end 61g of the back front part 61c extends in the body length direction by the width of the straight part 61h. It is easier to suppress the discomfort caused by the outer end 61g contacting the clavicle.
[0095] Since the width of the back front placket end 61g is smoothly widened by the curved portion 61i, the discomfort caused by the portion changing from the straight portion 61h to the curved portion 61i abutting against the wearer can be suppressed. Specifically, compared with the case where the curved portion 61i and the straight portion 61h are continuous and inclined upward and outward in the body width direction, the corner between the straight portion 61h and the curved portion 61i is less likely to be generated, and the discomfort caused by the corner abutting against the wearer can be suppressed.
[0096] In the above-mentioned embodiment, the structure of the collar 5 formed by bonding is described, but it is not limited to this. The collar 5 can also be a structure in which the collar body 51 and the three folding pieces 52, 53, 54 are not bonded and can be separated from each other. According to this structure, as in the case of being formed by bonding, if the three folding pieces 52, 53, 54 are folded so that the three folding pieces 52, 53, 54 overlap with the collar body 51, the peripheral portions 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5 are formed by the folding pieces 52, 53, 54 and the collar body 51, except for the long side portion 5b sewn to the body of the garment, and become a bag-like shape along the folding line. Therefore, the cross-section of the cut end of the component does not appear in the peripheral portion of the collar 5. Therefore, the spreading of the peripheral portion of the collar is suppressed.
[0097] In the above-described embodiment, it has been described that the collar 5 has a three-layer structure composed of a collar main body 51, an adhesive layer 57, and folding pieces 52, 53, and 54, but it is not limited thereto. As Fig.11 shown, a strip-shaped core material 58 corresponding to the collar main body 51 may be clamped between the collar main body 51 and the three folding pieces 52, 53, and 54. In other words, the collar 5 may also have a five-layer structure. The core material 58 is an adhesive core material bonded to the collar main body 51, and the fabric is made of knitting, 100% polyester, and the adhesive resin is made of polyamide resin, polyurethane resin, or the like. In this case, by pasting adhesive tapes 57 on both sides in the thickness direction of the core material 58, the collar main body 51 can be bonded to each of the folding pieces 52, 53, and 54 via the core material 58. By disposing the core material 58 between the collar main body 51 and the three folding pieces 52, 53, and 54, the deformation of the collar 5 can be suppressed, and the shape of the collar 5 can be adjusted.
[0098] In the above-described embodiment, a structure in which the angle a of the diagonal part 5e is 90 degrees has been described, but it is not limited thereto. As Fig.12 (a) of shows, according to the design of the collar, the angle a11 of the corner part 105e may also be an obtuse angle greater than 90 degrees. In this case, the collar main body 151 has a trapezoidal shape in which the first long side part 151b sewn to the body 2 is shorter than the second long side part 151a, and the short side parts 151c and 151d are inclined. In Fig.12 (b), in the state of being sewn to the body 2, a so-called wide collar (corresponding to the Japanese term: ワイド襟) in which the angle between a pair of short side parts 151c and 151d facing each other with the front placket 6 interposed therebetween is enlarged can be produced.
[0099] In addition, as Fig.13 (a) of shows, the angle a21 of the corner part 205e may also be an acute angle less than 90 degrees. In this case, the collar main body 251 has a trapezoidal shape in which the first long side part 251b sewn to the body 2 is longer than the second long side part 251a, and the short side parts 251c and 251d are inclined inward in the width direction from the top 205f toward the first long side part 251b. As Fig.13 (b) of shows, in the state of being sewn to the body 2, a long collar 205 with a long corner part 205e in which a pair of short side parts 251c and 251d facing each other with the front placket 6 interposed therebetween can be produced, or as indicated by the double-dot chain line, the angle between a pair of short side parts 251c and 251d can also be narrowed.
[0100] In addition, as Figure 3 shown by the double-dot chain line in the right collar 5 of, the corner part 305e may also be arc-shaped. In this case, in the state of being sewn to the body 2, a so-called round collar (corresponding to the Japanese term: ラウンド襟) can be produced. In addition, as Figure 3 shown by the double-dot chain line in the left collar 5 of, the corner part 405e may also be a shape with a chamfered corner with a reduced chamfer angle.
[0101] In the above-described embodiment, the lining cloth 63 is arranged between the front lining parts 61 a and 62 a and the back lining parts 61 c and 62 c of the lining member 6 . However, the lining cloth 63 may not be provided.
[0102] In the above-mentioned embodiment, a structure is described in which the position of the front lapel component 6 is staggered from the respective ends of the folded end 23c, the front lapel end 61e, and the back lapel end 61f, but at least one of the front lapel end 61e and the back lapel end 61f may also be staggered relative to the folded end 23c.
[0103] In the above-mentioned embodiment, the collared shirt is described as a POLO shirt 1, but the present invention is not limited thereto, and the collared shirt may be a knitted sweater, an open-neck shirt, or the like.
[0104] It should be noted that the POLO shirt (collared shirt) 1 of the present invention is not limited to the configuration of the above-described embodiment, and various modifications can be made. (Number Description)
[0105] 1POLO shirt (shirt with collar) 2 Body 5 collar 6 Front part 22 Right front body 23 Left front 22a, 23a folding part 22b, 23b inner edge 22c, 23c folded ends 51 Leading body 51a First long side 51b Second longest side 51c, 51d a pair of short sides 52 Main folding piece (folding piece) 52a First main long side 52b Second main long side 52c, 52d main short side 53, 54 pairs of folding pieces (folding pieces) 53a, 54a first secondary side 53b, 54b second secondary side 53c, 54c third secondary side 55 Docking part 56 Reinforcement belt 58 core material 61a, 62a Front placket 61b, 62b inner end 61c, 62c back front 61f, 62f Front placket end 61g, 62g back front end 61h Straight line 61i Bend 63 lining 63a End of lining cloth.
Claims
1. A collared shirt, characterized in that: The collared shirt comprises a front body, wherein the front body comprises a right front body portion located on the right side of the body width and a left front body portion located on the left side of the body width. The right front body part and the left front body part respectively have a folded portion folded to the back side of the front body part at the center side in the body width direction. The collared shirt further comprises a front placket member adjacent to the inner edge of the folded portion in the body width direction and extending along the body length direction of the front body. The front placket component comprises: a front placket portion, which is located on the surface side of the front garment body; and a back placket portion, which is continuous with the inner end of the front placket portion in the body width direction and is located on the back side of the front placket portion and extends toward the outer side in the width direction. With respect to the folded end portion on the outside in the body width direction of the folded portion, at least one of the front front end portion on the outside in the body width direction of the front front portion and the back front end portion on the outside in the body width direction of the back front portion is arranged to be staggered in the body width direction. The width from the inner edge to the front placket end is set smaller than the width of the folded portion.
2. The collared shirt according to claim 1, characterized in that: The width from the inner edge to the back front edge is set to be larger than the width of the folded portion.
3. The collared shirt according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: A strip-shaped lining fabric extending along the front placket in the body length direction is sandwiched between the front placket and the back placket. The lining cloth end portion on the outer side in the body width direction of the lining cloth is arranged so as to be offset in the body width direction from the folded end portion, the front placket end portion, and the back placket end portion.
4. The collared shirt according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: A strip-shaped lining fabric extending along the front placket in the body length direction is sandwiched between the front placket and the back placket. The width from the inner edge to the lining cloth end portion on the outside in the body width direction of the lining cloth is set to be less than the width from the inner edge to the front placket end portion.
5. The collared shirt according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The width of the back front part increases from the bottom to the top.
6. The collared shirt according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The back front placket end portion includes a straight portion located at the bottom and a curved portion that is continuous with the straight portion and curves upward and outward in the body width direction.
Citation Information
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