Colored oily cosmetic composition comprising at least one vegetable oil, silica and organically modified hectorite

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition: a) at least 50% of at least one hydrocarbon oil, at least 10% of which is at least one vegetable oil; b) silica; c) at least 0.5% of organically modified hectorite; and d) at least one pigment. The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for skin care and / or make-up, in particular as a foundation or blusher.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular dedicated to skin care and makeup, more particularly dedicated to the field of liquid anhydrous cosmetic compositions such as colored oils.

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of the complexion product type, comprising pigments, dedicated to make-up and skin care, more particularly to a fluid, concealing, light and non-greasy composition. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for skin care and / or make-up. Background Art

[0003] Cosmetic compositions, such as foundations, are for example used to beautify and even out skin tone, or to conceal skin imperfections or irregularities, such as spots, hyperpigmentation, pores, fine lines and wrinkles. Different galenic dosage forms are commercially available to provide different textures and / or comfort levels to consumers. For example, foundations can be in powder, solid stick, cream, balm or liquid form, emulsion or anhydrous form, depending on the texture, fluidity or viscosity, expected cosmetic effect or required sensory properties required for a given application. Anhydrous, particularly fluid, liquid forms can provide a completely new texture that breaks with conventional foundations, and can generally improve spreadability and smoothness compared to emulsions. In addition, anhydrous compositions also have advantages in preservation, because they can limit or even avoid the use of preservatives, which are typically synthetic and often criticized as allergic or irritating.

[0004] At the same time, foundation compositions must adhere well to the skin and evenly disperse powders and pigments so that they can be easily and evenly spread, cover completely, and stay well. Complexion products must also have an attractive feel, such as having adequate slip upon application, an application or "play time" that is neither too long nor too short so that the composition can work during application, and evenly applying color, having a non-greasy, non-sticky feel, etc. Finally, these compositions must remain stable over time. However, compositions with high pigment content often exhibit instabilities associated with pigment migration, precipitation, or agglomeration, and can be more difficult to maintain stable without substantially compromising their sensory properties.

[0005] At the same time, consumers are looking for cosmetic products that also provide real skin care, especially complexion products, such as serums. For example, serum-type products are designed to nourish, moisturize and protect the skin, or treat the skin, improve its appearance and / or reduce signs of skin aging. They are usually fluid and can be applied to the skin very easily and quickly.

[0006] At the same time, consumers are looking for products that are more environmentally friendly, in particular products with a high content of natural ingredients and / or ingredients of natural origin and / or eco-designed products, i.e. products whose design and development take into account the environmental impact (raw materials and their manufacturing processes, sustainable management of natural ingredients, product logistics and distribution, packaging, biodegradability, etc.). However, the use of ingredients of natural origin has a significant impact not only on the sensory properties of a cosmetic product, but also on its stability and homogeneity.

[0007] All of these prerequisites represent real challenges, as consumers continue to place high demands on the sensory quality and performance of products. In particular, they continue to look for products that are light, easy to apply to the skin and pleasant to the touch (especially non-sticky and non-greasy).

[0008] It is known that the use of liquid compositions with a high content of non-volatile oils (including vegetable oils) can provide skin care activities as well as emollient, nutritional and comfort properties. However, oils also increase the gloss, which is undesirable for matte makeup effects and usually results in a greasy, sticky feel when applied. In addition, the retention of the product on the skin is usually insufficient over time. As for vegetable oils, their content in such products is usually limited because they have an adverse effect on the sensory properties of the composition, particularly providing a heavier, greasy texture, which is usually offset by the use of synthetic materials such as mineral oils or silicones in combination. Other disadvantages include, for example, a unique smell and the risk of oxidation over time (rancid smell). Finally, in liquid formulations with a high oil content, it is still difficult to keep pigments and particulate materials in suspension because over time, they tend to settle and clog at the bottom of the bottle, forming a mass ("cake") that is very difficult to redisperse.

[0009] This clogging problem is precisely addressed in document WO2017 / 050699. The solution found consists in adding a lipophilic polymer selected from MQ-type silicone resins, silsesquioxane resins and / or vinyl polymers grafted with carbosiloxane dendrimers. However, these are silicones that have an impact on the environment.

[0010] There are other colored compositions on the market that are between skin care products and makeup products, liquid and anhydrous. For example, we know oily natural foundations containing vegetable oils and pigments, which are in bottled form and need to be shaken before use. However, these products usually have a rather heavy texture, are quite thick when applied and are not easy to spread. In addition, some products have relatively poor covering power, others leave a greasy feeling on the skin, and some products have a dry texture but low levels of natural origin ingredients or vegetable oils. Finally, in order to overcome the problem of clogging at the bottom of the bottle, some products require a stirring ball to be placed inside the bottle to more easily homogenize the composition before use.

[0011] Therefore, there is still a need for liquid complexion cosmetic compositions with a high degree of naturalness, in particular without silicones. In particular, there is a need for cosmetic compositions comprising, for example, at least 90% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 95% of ingredients of natural origin according to the NF ISO 16128 standard, which maintain high standards of sensory properties and stability.

[0012] There is also a need for liquid complexion cosmetic compositions that provide real skin care, in particular thanks to a high vegetable oil content. In particular, there is a need for cosmetic compositions comprising at least 10% vegetable oils, which simultaneously maintain high standards of sensory properties and stability.

[0013] There is also a need for a colored liquid cosmetic composition that performs well in even skin tone and correcting imperfections, having good spreading characteristics, adequate "wear time", even coverage on the skin and a natural makeup effect, and good stayability.

[0014] There is also a need for colored liquid cosmetic compositions that have good sensory properties, particularly a light texture that is easy to apply and spread, does not get in the way, is non-sticky, has a dry feel and does not leave a greasy feel.

[0015] At the same time, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that have good stability over time, particularly throughout the product storage period of up to several months after the product has been opened by the end user. In particular, there is a need for liquid cosmetic compositions with high oil content in which the pigments and particulate materials do not agglomerate or clog, without the need for silicone resins or stirring beads to break up and redisperse the pigment clumps.

[0016] The applicant's contribution is that she has proposed a new cosmetic composition which surprisingly solves all these problems. Summary of the invention

[0017] According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition:

[0018] a) at least 50% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon oil, of which at least 10% is at least one vegetable oil;

[0019] b) silicon dioxide;

[0020] c) at least 0.5% of an organically modified hectorite; and

[0021] d) at least one pigment.

[0022] Advantageously, the present invention relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0023] a) at least 50% of at least one hydrocarbon oil, of which at least 10% is at least one vegetable oil;

[0024] b) silicon dioxide;

[0025] c) 0.5% to 3% of organically modified hectorite; and

[0026] d) At least 7% pigment.

[0027] After extensive research, the inventors have demonstrated that it is possible to provide liquid cosmetic compositions with high content of vegetable oils and ingredients of natural origin that are high performing, sensorially pleasant and stable over time, without the need for the use of silicones or mixing beads in the bottle.

[0028] The composition according to the invention is an anhydrous liquid. More specifically, it has a fluid texture that spreads easily on the skin with good slip and uniform pigment distribution and provides sufficient natural coverage to even out the skin tone and conceal skin imperfections. In addition, the composition according to the invention leaves a natural matte complexion without a shiny or greasy effect.

[0029] Surprisingly, the specific combination of ingredients highlighted has a specific sensory profile that gradually transforms from a fine, light oil feel to a dry, powdery feel upon application, without the feeling of an oily residual film on the skin.

[0030] Surprisingly, the combination according to the invention both avoids the phenomenon of pigment clogging and achieves a very fluid, for example serum-like, texture despite the presence of modified hectorites which tend to gel the oil phase. Thus, the combination according to the invention enables good pigment redispersion without the need for silicone resins or stirring beads.

[0031] The composition according to the invention is in the form of a two-phase dispersion (biphasic), in particular a dispersion of a powder in an oil phase. It is suitable for topical application to the skin. It can be used for skin care and / or makeup. For example, it can be used as a skin care product, for example as a facial care serum, as a nutritional oil or as a protective product, for example an anti-oxidant, anti-pollution or sunscreen product. The composition according to the invention can also be used as a skin makeup product, in particular as a complexion product. The composition according to the invention can be used, for example, as a foundation, a complexion base or a blush.

[0032] Another subject of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above as a make-up product, preferably as a foundation, complexion base or blush. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0033] General terms used herein are defined as follows.

[0034] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".

[0035] The expression "comprising" includes the expression "consisting of".

[0036] The expression "from ... to ..." has to be understood as including the terminal.

[0037] The expressions "between and", "less than" or "greater than" should be understood as excluding boundaries.

[0038] The name "INCI" means the name of a cosmetic ingredient according to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, a "cosmetic composition" is a composition suitable for external topical application. It comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier, i.e. a carrier that is compatible with the skin. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a skin care and / or make-up product. The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more additives, including active ingredients, emollients and fragrances. It may have moisturizing, soothing and / or protective properties for the skin.

[0040] For the purposes of the present invention, "anhydrous composition" means a composition having a water content of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, even more particularly less than 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. More particularly, no water is added during the preparation of the composition and the water content corresponds to the residual water provided by the ingredients constituting the composition.

[0041] The term "liquid" characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). This means that, in contrast to so-called "solid" compositions, the composition is able to flow under its own weight. More particularly, the "liquid" composition according to the present invention is not graspable, i.e., cannot be picked up with fingers, and flows immediately under its own weight. Therefore, in the sense of the present invention, the term "liquid" does not include "cream" type compositions or compositions that are usually packaged in cans. The composition according to the present invention is preferably packaged in a bottle. More particularly, the composition according to the present invention can be taken with a pipette. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains less than 0.5% wax, or more preferably does not contain wax. This makes it possible to obtain a liquid composition within the meaning of the present invention (because wax can increase the consistency of the composition). Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain a gelling agent or thickening agent other than organically modified hectorite or silica. This makes it possible to obtain a liquid composition within the meaning of the present invention.

[0042] The composition according to the present invention is preferably a fluid. For the purposes of the present invention, "fluid" refers to a liquid composition with low viscosity. For example, the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention can be measured using a Brookfield LV viscometer (it has an M63 mobile device at a speed of 100 rpm, or an M62 mobile device at a speed of 100 rpm). Both methods are suitable for measuring "low" viscosity within the meaning of the present invention.

[0043] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is 5 The viscosity at 4000 rpm or less is at most 3,000 mPa.s., preferably at most 2,500 mPa.s., more preferably at most 1,500 mPa.s., most preferably at most 1,000 mPa.s, for example measured using a Brookfield LV viscometer (with an M63 mobile device and a speed of 100 rpm or revolutions per minute). The viscosity is measured after preparation of the anhydrous composition, after storage in an oven at 20° C. for 24 hours and after homogenization by shaking the bottle.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is 5 The viscosity at 400 mPa.s. is at least 200 mPa.s., preferably at least 300 mPa.s., better still at least 400 mPa.s., for example measured using a Brookfield LV viscometer (with M63 mobile device, speed of 100 rpm). The viscosity is measured after preparation of the anhydrous composition, after storage in an oven at 20° C. for 24 hours and after homogenization by shaking the bottle.

[0045] More preferably, the composition according to the invention is preferably 5 The viscosity at 200 mPa.s. to 3,000 mPa.s. is preferably 200 mPa.s. to 2,000 mPa.s., particularly 300 mPa.s. to 1,500 mPa.s., more preferably 400 mPa.s. to 1,000 mPa.s., measured using a Brookfield LV viscometer (with an M63 mobile device at a speed of 100 rpm).

[0046] Alternatively, if the composition according to the invention is too fluid to measure its viscosity by the above method, a Brookfield LV viscometer with an M62 movement and a speed of 100 rpm (or revolutions per minute) may be used.

[0047] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains at least 90% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 95% of ingredients of natural origin. The percentage of ingredients of natural origin is hereby calculated according to the principles of standard NF ISO 16128. Surprisingly, the specific combination of ingredients highlighted by the inventors makes it possible to obtain compositions with a high level of ingredients of natural origin, combining the organoleptic, performance and stability characteristics of silicone-containing compositions.

[0048] For the purposes of the present invention, a "natural" ingredient is defined as an ingredient (or substance) that is present in nature (obtained from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals), has not been processed or has been obtained only by physical processes. For example, the ingredient may be extracted and / or processed mechanically or by gravity, by dissolution in water, by maceration, by water extraction, by distillation, by grinding, by pressure, by flotation, by sedimentation, by filtration, etc. The naturalness index of a natural ingredient determined according to standard NF ISO n°16128 (or "Natural Origin Index") is 1 (100% natural ingredient). Examples of natural ingredients include water, plant extracts using natural solvents (water or other natural solvents), parts of plants or seeds, vegetable oils, mineral ingredients, etc.

[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, "naturally derived" ingredients are defined as natural ingredients that have been extracted and / or chemically treated and have undergone a limited number of small-scale chemical transformations. These chemical transformations and processes may be carried out according to the principles of green chemistry (as opposed to petrochemical processes involving petroleum derivatives) and are listed, for example, in standard NF ISO n° 16128. A "naturally derived" ingredient has a naturalness index calculated according to standard NF ISO n° 16128 greater than 0.5 (i.e. it contains more than 50% of its molecular mass originating from nature).

[0050] The term "ingredient of natural origin" includes "natural" and "naturally derived" ingredients as defined above. The naturalness index of ingredients of natural origin calculated according to standard NF ISOn° 16128 is greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1. In contrast, synthetic ingredients or ingredients mainly derived from fossil fuels have a naturalness index of 0. Other ingredients have an index between 0 and 0.5 and are not considered to be of natural origin.

[0051] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain silicone. For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone" refers to silicone polymers or oligomers (i.e. containing carbon-silicon bonds). In particular, these are compounds containing a repeating main unit in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bonds) and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups are linked to the silicon atoms via carbon atoms. These compounds may have a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure and are obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes. The term "silicone" also includes the silanes required for its preparation, in particular alkyl silanes. Examples of silicones include silicone oils (in particular organopolysiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS or dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclopolymethylsiloxane, phenylated polysiloxanes, etc.), silicone resins (e.g. MQ type, such as alkylsiloxysilicates), silsesquioxane resins (or alkylsilsesquioxanes), carbosiloxane dendrimers and their derivatives.

[0052] Unless expressly stated otherwise, for the purposes of the present invention, "free of" means that the mass of the substance is less than or equal to 0.3% relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.2% relative to the total mass of the composition, more preferably less than or equal to 0.1% and more preferably less than or equal to 0.05%.

[0053] The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase (in particular comprising a vegetable oil). More particularly, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a pigment suspension dispersed in the oily phase.

[0054] Oil :

[0055] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 50% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon oil, including at least 10% by mass of at least one vegetable oil, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0056] High levels of vegetable oils have the advantage of providing substantial nutritional properties for the skin, since vegetable oils may contain fatty acids (including ω-9, ω-6, ω-3), natural antioxidants (tocopherol or vitamin E), vitamins (vitamin E, vitamin F), sterols (or phytosterols), etc. In addition, vegetable oils are natural. Vegetable oils are also natural. On the other hand, vegetable oils are generally not conducive to sensory properties, in particular, they cause a greasy, heavier texture, which can usually be corrected by using vegetable oils at low percentages or in combination with synthetic materials such as mineral oils or silicones. The combination according to the invention makes it possible to use high percentages of vegetable oils without compromising the sensory properties of the composition and without the need to use mineral oils or silicones.

[0057] By "oil" we mean in particular aliphatic compounds which are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg).

[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil consisting essentially or even completely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms. For example, a hydrocarbon oil may contain ester, ether or carbonate groups. Hydrocarbon oils include vegetable oils. Hydrocarbon oils may be volatile or non-volatile. Compositions according to the present invention may contain one or more hydrocarbon oils that are not vegetable oils.

[0059] In addition to vegetable oils, examples of hydrocarbon oils that can be used include hydrocarbons containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms (e.g., n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-hexadecane, etc.); hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms, especially alkane oils (e.g., squalane); liquid fatty alcohols (e.g., oleic acid alcohol, linoleic acid alcohol, etc.); hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms, especially alkane oils (e.g., squalane); liquid fatty alcohols (e.g., oleic acid alcohol, linoleic acid alcohol, etc.); ester oils of plant origin (e.g., glycerides, such as monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids, for example, caprylic / capric triglycerides, etc.). ); liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than glycerides (e.g., ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, hexyldecyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, cetearyl isononanoate, coconut caprylate, coconut caprylate / caprate, etc.); liquid fatty acid ethers (e.g., dicaprylyl ether, distearyl ether, diisononyl ether, etc.); carbonate oils (e.g., dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, etc.) and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil other than a vegetable oil is of natural origin.

[0061] More preferably, the hydrocarbon oil content is at least 60 wt%, preferably at least 70 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil content is at most 90 wt%, preferably at most 85 wt%, more preferably at most 80 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the hydrocarbon oil content is between 60% and 90%, preferably between 70% and 85%, better still between 70% and 80%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine improved stability and organoleptic properties of the composition with better cosmetic results.

[0064] "Vegetable oil" means oil extracted from natural, unprocessed plant species.

[0065] Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, peach kernel oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, canola oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, mirabelle plum oil, shea butter, evening primrose oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, broccoli oil, camellia oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 10% by weight of a vegetable oil chosen from macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, jojoba oil, hemp oil, safflower oil, grape seed oil, sunflower oil, kuju oil, camellia oil and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition. This significantly enhances the organoleptic properties of the composition according to the invention.

[0067] In the composition according to the invention, the vegetable oil content may be at least 12% by mass, preferably at least 15% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0068] The mass content of vegetable oil may be at most 50%, preferably at most 30%, more preferably at most 20%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0069] Preferably, the mass content of vegetable oil is from 10% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 30%, better still from 15% to 20%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine improved stability and sensory properties of the composition with enhanced care and active properties.

[0070] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain mineral oil. By "mineral oil" we mean oil of fossil origin, in particular oil derived from the processing of fossil fuels. In fact, mineral oil, in particular isododecane, is usually added to increase the lightness of the texture, reduce greasiness, or even improve matte and retention on the skin. Examples of mineral oils include isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isodecane, isododecane; polyisobutene; paraffin oil (also known as "liquid paraffin").

[0071] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free of siliconized and / or fluorinated aliphatic compounds.

[0072] For the purpose of the present invention, "aliphatic compound" means a compound that is 5Pa; 760mmHg) in water (liquid or non-liquid). More particularly, the water solubility of such compounds is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Such compounds generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups.

[0073] For the purposes of the present invention, "siliconized" refers to compounds containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. Examples include organopolysiloxanes. Examples of siliconized fatty compounds (also referred to herein as "silicones") include silicone oils (such as polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS, cyclomethicone, dimethicone containing alkyl, alkoxy, phenyl or copolyol groups, silicone cross-linked polymers, dimethiconol, etc.), silicone resins (such as MQ-type silicone resins, silsesquioxane resins, etc.), silicone grafted polymers (such as MQ-type silicone resins, silsesquioxane resins, etc.), polymers grafted with one or more carbosiloxane units (for example, vinyl polymers grafted with carbosiloxane dendrimers), silicone surfactants or emulsifiers (for example, dimethicone copolymers or dimethicone-based emulsifiers, such as PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, etc.).

[0074] "Fluorinated" refers to a compound containing at least one fluorine atom. Examples of fluorinated aliphatic compounds include fluorinated oils (such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones, etc.).

[0075] Silicon dioxide :

[0076] The composition according to the invention comprises silicon dioxide.

[0077] Silica is a filler. By "filler" we mean solid particles of any shape, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition medium. Generally speaking, these particles can be colorless, white or colored, and can be mineral or organic in nature. They are generally used to impart body, softness, matte finish and / or makeup uniformity to the composition.

[0078] In the context of the present invention, silicon dioxide (chemical name: silicon dioxide) is used as a powder component to give the composition according to the invention a matte, powdery and less greasy effect. Silicon dioxide also has the advantage of a high level of naturalness. Silicon dioxide is spherical. Silicon dioxide can be porous or non-porous.

[0079] Preferably, the silica is porous. The porosity of the particles can be quantitatively characterized by their specific surface area or oil absorption capacity.

[0080] Preferably, the oil absorption capacity of the silica, in particular the oil absorption capacity for liquid paraffin, is at least 0.3 ml / g, preferably at least 0.5 ml / g, more preferably at least 1 ml / g. The oil absorption capacity of the silica can be measured by conventional methods conventional to those skilled in the art, such as the method for determining the oil absorption of powders described in standard NF T30-022.

[0081] Advantageously, the silica is amorphous.

[0082] Preferably, the silica is not surface treated with a surface treatment agent.

[0083] The silica particles used in the present invention may have an average size of 0.5 to 100 μm, preferably 1 to 50 μm, more preferably 2 to 25 μm, measured, for example, by static light scattering according to ISO 13320-1 using a commercially available particle sizer of the Malvern MasterSizer 2000 type.

[0084] Non-limiting examples of silicas that can be used include powders with the INCI name "SILICA" and CAS number 7631-86-9, or products sold under the names SUNSIL-150H, SUNSIL-130H, SUNSIL-130SH (distributed by IMPAG France) or SPHERICA P1500 (distributed by SACI-CFPA).

[0085] Preferably, the silica content is at least 2% by mass, preferably at least 3% by mass, more preferably at least 4% by mass, and even better still at least 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0086] The silica content may be up to 15% by mass, preferably up to 10% by mass, more preferably up to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0087] Preferably, the silicon dioxide content is from 2% to 15% by mass, preferably from 3% to 10%, more preferably from 4% to 10%, and even better from 4% to 7% relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine improved stability of the composition with organoleptic properties.

[0088] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the amount of silica to the amount of hydrocarbon oil is between 1:5 and 1:30, preferably between 1:10 and 1:25. This makes it possible to optimize the fluidity, stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

[0089] Organic modified hectorite :

[0090] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.5% by weight of at least one organically modified clay, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0091] More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.5% by mass of at least one organically modified hectorite, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0092] Hectorite is a well-known clay belonging to the montmorillonite family. For the purposes of the present invention, "organically modified hectorite" refers to a hectorite modified by an "aliphatic" organic compound (i.e., a compound containing at least 6 carbon atoms). For example, hectorite can be modified with an organic compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. The organically modified hectorite is lipophilic or lipid dispersible.

[0093] It is known that organically modified hectorites have gelling properties and can be used as thickeners for the fatty phase. For the purposes of the present invention, a "thickener" refers in particular to a macromolecule which, due to its presence, increases the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced. In the case of this combination, the modified hectorite does not prevent the pigment from settling. However, surprisingly, the inventors have demonstrated that the modified hectorite present in the composition according to the invention prevents the phenomenon of clogging of the pigment and the formation of a "cake" at the bottom of the bottle and makes it very easy to redisperse the pigment simply by shaking the bottle, while maintaining a fluid texture. In this way, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to dispense with the mixing beads placed in the bottle, which are usually used to redisperse the blocked pigment.

[0094] More particularly, the hectorite may be organically modified with quaternary ammonium, in particular with ammonium halides containing at least one alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, chlorides. Non-limiting examples of such organically modified hectorites include stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium hectorite (INCI name: stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium hectorite), quaternium-18 hectorite (INCI name: quaternium-18 hectorite), disteardimonium hectorite (INCI name: disteardimonium hectorite; in particular modified with disteardimonium chloride).

[0095] Preferably, the organic modified hectorite is selected from stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium hectorite, quaternium salt-18 hectorite, disteardimethyl ammonium hectorite and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the organic modified hectorite is selected from stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium hectorite.

[0096] Non-limiting examples of modified hectorites that can be used include the compound with the INCI name “stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium hectorite” sold under the names BENTONE 27V (ELEMENTIS), COSMEDIA GEL CC (BASF), BENTONE GEL TN V or BENTONE GEL CAO / V (distributed by SACI-CFPA); the compound with the INCI name “disteardimethyl ammonium hectorite” sold under the names BENTONE 38V, BENTONE 38VCG, BENTONE GEL ISD V (ELEMENTIS), BENTONE GEL EUG V or BENTONE GEL ISD V (distributed by SACI-CFPA).

[0097] The mass content of the organically modified hectorite is at least 0.5%, preferably at least 0.7%, more preferably at least 1%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0098] The mass content of the organically modified hectorite may be at most 3%, preferably at most 2.5%, more preferably at most 2%, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0099] Preferably, the mass content of the organically modified hectorite is 0.5% to 3%, preferably 0.7% to 2.5%, more preferably 0.7% to 2%, and more preferably 1% to 2%, based on the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine improved stability of the composition with sensory properties.

[0100] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the amount of organically modified hectorite to the amount of pigment is from 1:5 to 1:30, preferably from 1:8 to 1:25. This enables the composition to have good flowability, stability and organoleptic properties.

[0101] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the amount of organically modified hectorite to the amount of hydrocarbon oil is less than 1:30, preferably less than 1:35, more preferably less than 1:40, and better still less than 1:50. This makes it possible for the composition to have good fluidity, stability and organoleptic properties.

[0102] pigment :

[0103] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pigment.

[0104] By "pigment" we mean particles that are insoluble in aqueous and / or organic media and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. The pigment may be white or colored. For example, a combination of red, yellow, black or white pigments may be used. These particles may have various shapes, such as patchy, spherical, lamellar or spherical. They may be mineral and / or organic pigments. Organic and / or mineral pigments are known in the art and are described, for example, in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry or in document FR 3118420. They may be natural, of natural origin or non-natural.

[0105] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloured pigment, for example chosen from red, yellow or black pigments.

[0106] Preferably, the pigments in the composition according to the invention are natural or of natural origin.

[0107] The pigments used in the present invention may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as pearlescent or glitter pigments, lamellar pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Examples of inorganic pigments include zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) and chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and iron blue, titanium dioxide and metal powders such as aluminum and copper powders.

[0109] Preferably, the mineral pigments are selected from iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide pigments.

[0110] Non-limiting examples of organic pigments include nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluoran, phthalocyanine, metal complexes, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone. For example, the organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue and pigments compiled in the Color Index, such as references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160 (for blue pigments); CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005 (yellow pigments); CI 61565, 61570, 74260 (for green pigments); CI 11725, 45370, 71105 (for orange pigments); CI Pigments under 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470 (for red pigment).

[0111] The pigments can also be used in the form of composite pigments, for example particles comprising an inorganic core and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core, the organic pigment being fixed to the core by a binder.

[0112] The pigment may also be a lacquer. By lacquer we mean a colorant adsorbed on insoluble particles, the resulting assembly remaining insoluble in their medium. Inorganic substrates on which the colorant is adsorbed include alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0113] Pigments can also be special effect pigments. "Special effect pigments" refer to pigments that generally produce a colored appearance (characterized by a certain hue, vividness, and clarity) that is non-uniform and varies depending on viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angle, etc.). This distinguishes them from colored pigments, which provide conventional uniform opaque hues, translucent or classical transparent hues. Special effect pigments include those with a low refractive index (such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments) and those with a higher refractive index (such as pearlescent, interference or glitter pigments).

[0114] Special effect pigments can be selected from pearlescent pigments. For example, they can be composed of mica particles, on the surface of which at least one or more continuous metal oxide and / or organic colorant layers are superimposed. Examples of pearlescent pigments include mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxide, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular with iron blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and organic pigments, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples of commercially available pearlescent pigments include CELLINI pearlescent pigments (Mica-TiO2-lacquer) sold by BASF, PRESTIGE (Mica-TiO2) or PRESTIGE Bronze (Mica-Fe2O3) sold by ECKART, COLORONA (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3) sold by MERCK or SUNSHINE (synthetic mica-based mother-of-pearl) sold by TIMIRON, SUN CHEMICAL.

[0115] The particle size of the pigment used is preferably greater than or equal to 100 nm. Preferably, the pigment particle size is from 100 nm to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, more preferably from 400 nm to 2 μm. For the purposes of the present invention, "particle size" refers to the D50 of the particle. The D50 or volume average particle size corresponds to the particle size defined such that 50% by volume of the particles are less than the D50. The volume average size can be evaluated by light diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser particle sizer, the particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as octyl dodecyl neopentanoate.

[0116] The pigments used in the present invention may be coated or uncoated. For example, they may be surface treated with an organic agent, preferably a lipophilic agent.

[0117] "Surface treated pigment" refers to a pigment coated with at least one treating agent. Coating herein means that the pigment is subjected to full or partial surface treatment with at least one surface agent (or treating agent), such as absorption, adsorption or grafting onto the pigment. The surfactant may be selected from waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, amino acids, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts, iron salts, titanium salts, zinc salts or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides, and the like.

[0118] Various types of surface treated pigments are known to those skilled in the art and are commercially available. Examples include the ASL-1 pigment sold by DAITO KASEI EUROPE (iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigment surface treated with aliphatic amino acids), or the pigment sold by MIYOSHI KASEI under the trade name NAI (titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate).

[0119] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments are chosen from mineral pigments, preferably from iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. More particularly, they may be mineral pigments surface-treated with an organic treatment agent, preferably a lipophilic treatment agent.

[0120] Preferably, the pigment content is at least 5%, preferably at least 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the pigment content is at least 8.5%, more preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 12%, based on the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the pigment content is at least 18%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] The pigment content may be up to 40% by weight, preferably up to 30% by weight, more preferably up to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Preferably, the pigment content is 5% to 40% by weight, preferably 7% to 40%, more preferably 7% to 30%, more preferably 10% to 20%, based on the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine improved hiding power, stability and sensory properties in the composition.

[0123] Additional compounds :

[0124] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more formulating agents, in particular customary cosmetic active ingredients and / or excipients.

[0125] These formulations can be appropriately selected according to the use of the composition of the present invention.

[0126] Non-limiting examples of formulations include active ingredients, fatty compounds or organic solvents (e.g., alcohols and polyols), lipophilic rheological agents (thickeners or gelling agents), humectants, sunscreens, stabilizers, emollients, film formers, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric), fillers (e.g., matting powders, soft focus active touch powders, etc.), UV filters (or photoprotectants, organic and / or inorganic, active in UVA and / or UVB), colorants, preservatives, fragrances or any other ingredient commonly used in the field of cosmetics and / or dermatology. The amounts of these various compounds are those conventionally used in the field under consideration.

[0127] For example, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one active ingredient. Examples of active ingredients include:

[0128] - antifouling agents and / or anti-free radical agents and / or antioxidants (coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone);

[0129] - Anti-aging agents;

[0130] - firming or anti-wrinkle agents, such as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates (eg soy protein extract);

[0131] - humectants (such as polyols, for example glycerol);

[0132] - soothing agents (such as glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts);

[0133] - Soothing agents (allantoin, bisabolol, cornflower water);

[0134] -Antimicrobial or antibacterial agents;

[0135] -Volume enhancers;

[0136] - vitamins and provitamins (such as ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8 and their derivatives, such as esters of these vitamins);

[0137] -Essential oils.

[0138] Thanks to the knowledge of cosmetics, a person skilled in the art is able to choose the formulating agents to be added to the composition according to the invention and their amounts according to the properties sought, without substantially modifying the effects associated with the composition according to the invention, in particular its flowability, stability and organoleptic properties.

[0139] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain plastic powders of petrochemical origin. Examples include polyolefin powders (such as polyethylene), polyamide powders (such as nylon powder) or acrylic polymers (such as methacrylate copolymer powders). Examples of such plastic powders include compounds with the INCI names Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polyethylene, Ethylene / Methacrylate Copolymer, Nylon 6, Nylon-6 / 12, Nylon-12, HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer or Polyethylene Terephthalate. In fact, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain very good organoleptic effects without using ingredients of this type.

[0140] According to a particular embodiment, the subject of the present invention is an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition consisting of at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, of:

[0141] a) at least 50% of at least one hydrocarbon oil, of which at least 10% is at least one vegetable oil;

[0142] b) at least 2% silicon dioxide;

[0143] c) at least 0.5% of an organically modified hectorite; and

[0144] d) At least 5% pigment.

[0145] According to a specific embodiment, the present invention relates to an anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition comprising, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition:

[0146] a) 60% to 90%, preferably 70% to 85%, better still 70% to 80% of hydrocarbon oils, including at least 10%, preferably at least 12%, better still at least 15% of vegetable oils;

[0147] b) 2% to 15%, preferably 3% to 10%, in particular 4% to 10%, more preferably 4% to 7% silicon dioxide;

[0148] c) 0.5% to 3%, preferably 0.7% to 2.5%, in particular 0.7% to 2%, more preferably 1% to 2% of organically modified hectorite;

[0149] d) at least 5%, preferably at least 7%, more preferably at least 10%, even better still at least 12% of pigment.

[0150] use :

[0151] Another subject of the invention is the use of a composition according to the invention for skin care and / or makeup.

[0152] Another subject of the invention is the use of a composition according to the invention as foundation or blush.

[0153] Another object of the invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic make-up and / or skin care method comprising at least one step of applying to the skin a composition as defined above.

[0154] Example

[0155] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following non-limiting examples. The compounds or raw materials used are indicated by their INCI names. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages given are percentages by weight. Reference to "qsp" means that the amount must be sufficient to make the composition reach 100% of its final mass. The word "nd" means "not determined".

[0156] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 15 were prepared according to the following procedure, with the proportions % shown in the following Tables 1 to 4. The various compositions were also evaluated in terms of organoleptic properties (appearance, color, odor), their stability over time under the various conditions detailed below, and their application properties.

[0157] In Tables 1 to 4 below:

[0158] - the term "Inv." or "Comp." refers to a composition "according to the invention" or a "comparative" composition (outside the invention), respectively;

[0159] - The terms "ep." and "pigm." refer to ingredient types, meaning "thickener" and "pigment," respectively;

[0160] - The left column named "P" indicates the phase in which the ingredient exists;

[0161] - The references in brackets (next to the INCI name of the compound) refer to the trade names of the raw materials used to prepare these ingredients. Details of these raw materials are as follows:

[0162] (1) CETIOL C5C (INCI name: Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Tocopherol), sold by BASF.

[0163] (2) Organic jojoba oil (INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil) from SAFIC ALCAN (France).

[0164] (3) Natural hazelnut oil (INCI name: Corylus avellana (hazelnut) seed oil), sold by OLVEA VEGETABLE OILS (France).

[0165] (4) LIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN BE LS 9779 (INCI name: Argania spinosa kernel oil), sold by BASF.

[0166] (5) Neossance Squalane or Biossance Squalane (INCI name: Squalane) from AMYRIS.

[0167] (6) CETIOL OE (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether (and) tocopherol), sold by BASF.

[0168] (7) EMOGREEN L15 (INCI name: C15-19 Alkane), sold by SEPPIC (France).

[0169] (8) VEGELIGHT SILK (INCI name: C9-C12 Alkanes), sold by Biosynthis (France).

[0170] (10) COSMEDIA GEL CC (INCI name: dicaprylyl carbonate (and) stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (and) tocopherol), sold by BASF. The proportion of stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium hectorite in "Cosmedia Gel CC" is 10% by weight.

[0171] (11) SUNSIL-150H (INCI name: SILICA), sold by IMPAG France.

[0172] (12) DC VM-2270 (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATE), sold by UNIVAR SOLUTIONS.

[0173] (13) EMC30 (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride & Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer), from POLYMEREXPERT.

[0174] (p) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments surface-treated with "aliphatic" amino acids, sold by DAITO KASEIEUROPE under the trade names ASL-1TIO2 CR-50 (INCI name: CI 77891 (titanium dioxide) (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) sodium lauroyl glutamate (and) lysine (and) magnesium chloride), ASL-1RED R-516P (INCI name: CI 77491 (iron oxide) (and) sodium lauroyl glutamate (and) lysine (and) magnesium chloride), ASL-1YELLOW LL-100P (INCI name: CI 77492 (iron oxide) (and) sodium lauroyl glutamate (and) lysine (and) magnesium chloride) and ASL-1BLACKBL-100P (INCI name: CI 77499 (iron oxide) (and) sodium lauroyl glutamate (and) lysine (and) magnesium chloride). Depending on requirements and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used, the total amount of pigments being 18% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition 1 to 12.

[0175] (q) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments (untreated), sold by SUN CHEMICAL MAPRECOS under the trade names SUNPURO OX FER NOIR C337001 (INCI name: CI 77499 / iron oxide), SUNPURO OX FER ROUGEC338001 (INCI name: CI 77491 / iron oxide), SUNPURO OX FER JAUNE C339001 (INCI name: CI 77492 / iron oxide) and SUNPURO OX TITANE C475001 (INCI name: CI 77891 / titanium dioxide (and) aluminum oxide). Depending on the requirements and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used, the total amount of pigments representing 18% by weight relative to the total weight of composition 13.

[0176] (r) organic pigments sold by DAITO KASEI EUROPE under the trade names DK-PGT PASTE R7 (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRISOSTEARATE (AND) CI 15850 / RED 7), DK-PGT PASTE Y5L (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRISOSTEARATE (AND) CI 19140 / YELLOW 5LAKE) and inorganic pigments sold as DK-PGT PASTE Ti (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRISOSTEARATE (AND) CI 77891 / TITANIUM DIOXIDE (AND) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE). Depending on the requirements and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used, the total amount of pigments representing 8.5% by weight relative to the total weight of each of compositions 14 and 15.

[0177] (s) Mother of pearl, sold by SAFIC ALCAN (France) under the trade name PRESTIGE SILVER (INCI name: Mica (and) CI 77891 / titanium dioxide). In composition 15 according to the invention, the mass content of pearlescent pigments is 2% of the total mass of the composition.

[0178]

[0179] (Table 1)

[0180] Formulas 1 to 4 shown in Table 1 have very similar compositions and do not include modified hectorite, but include various thickeners or gelling agents. These 4 compositions were found to be unstable in stability testing, especially under temperature cycling for 1 month (procedure described below). Comparative composition 1 contains 5% silica, which gives the formula a powdery appearance. The composition is unstable. In particular, after storage under temperature cycling conditions (from -10°C to 25°C, alternating cycles every 12 hours), the powder (pigment and silica) clogged at the bottom of the pill dispenser and formed a "cake" that was too complex to mix. In comparative composition 2, which contains 8% silica, the powder settled and clogged at the bottom of the pill dispenser. Comparative composition 3, to which another thickener (1% silylated silica) was added, also caused pigment clogging. Comparative composition 4, which uses another fat phase gelling agent (2.5% copolymer in oil), slowed down pigment sedimentation, but caused a small amount of oily discharge and also failed to solve the problem of clogging at the bottom of the pill dispenser.

[0181]

[0182]

[0183] (Table 2)

[0184] Formulas 5 to 8 shown in Table 2 contain combinations according to the invention with lipophilically treated mineral pigments. Formula 5 has a composition very similar to that of Formula 4, except that it contains 1% by weight of modified hectorite (10% "Cosmedia gel CC" containing modified hectorite in an oily mixture) instead of a copolymer gelling agent. Surprisingly, the modified hectorite in the combination according to the invention prevents clogging without significantly thickening the formulated product. In fact, Formula 5 does not prevent the pigment from settling, but slows it down, and the pigment is very easy and uniformly redispersed in the composition just by stirring before application. Compositions 6 and 7 are further embodiments of compositions according to the invention, which contain specific combinations of ingredients. These compositions also avoid the problem of clogging at the bottom. In addition, compositions 5 to 7 have a particular sensory appeal, and a light oil is felt on the skin, which gradually transforms into a fine powdery deposit.

[0185] Comparative composition 8 differs from composition 7 according to the invention in that it does not contain silicon dioxide. Composition 8 is stable but has an unsatisfactory feel with a very oily, greasy effect.

[0186]

[0187]

[0188] (Table 3)

[0189] Compositions 9 to 13 are further embodiments of compositions according to the invention, suitable for use as foundations. Compositions 9 to 12 contain different combinations of oils. Composition 13 contains other types of mineral pigments that are not surface treated. All of these compositions do not present clogging problems and the pigments can be well dispersed simply by shaking the pill dispenser. In addition, they have very good organoleptic properties, with the oils transforming into a fine powdery (non-oily) deposit upon application.

[0190]

[0191] (Table 4)

[0192] Composition 14 and composition 15 are further embodiments of compositions of the invention, suitable for use as blushes. These compositions comprise a combination according to the invention with other oil combinations and organic pigments. Composition 15 also comprises a pearlescent agent. None of these compositions present any clogging problems and the pigments are well dispersed simply by agitating the pill dispenser. Furthermore, they provide excellent organoleptic properties, with the oil transforming into a fine powdery (non-oily) deposit upon application.

[0193] Procedure for "Foundation" compositions 1 to 2 and 4 to 13 :

[0194] Phase A is prepared by mixing and heating the corresponding ingredients at 80°C (using a hot plate) and under Rayneri stirring equipped with a deflocculant at about 500 rpm (revolutions / minute). The mixture is kept under strong stirring for 10 minutes. Once a temperature of 80°C is reached, the mixture is cooled to below 40°C under gentle stirring (about 200 rpm) and then phase B (fragrance) is added. Phase C (powders) is then added and the entire mixture is homogenized for about 15 minutes at about 9500 rpm using an ultra turrax homogenizer.

[0195] A liquid foundation composition having an even and fluid appearance, foundation color is obtained.

[0196] Procedure for Comparative Composition 3 :

[0197] Phase A is prepared by mixing the oil at about 500 rpm (rev / min) under the Rayneri stirring using a deflocculant. Phase C pigment is then sprayed into mixture A, and the mixture is blended for about 15 minutes at about 9500 rpm using an ultra turrax homogenizer. The mixture is heated to 80°C, then a phase C gelling agent (castor oil / IPDI copolymer in caprylic / capric triglyceride oil) is added to the mixture, and stirring is maintained at about 400 rpm to 500 rpm for about 15 minutes. The mixture is cooled under slight stirring (about 200 rpm), and when the temperature is about 50°C, silicon dioxide is added. The mixture is cooled under slight stirring (about 200 rpm).

[0198] A liquid foundation composition having an even and fluid appearance, foundation color is obtained.

[0199] Procedure for "Blush" compositions 14 and 15 :

[0200] Phase A is prepared by mixing the ingredients at high speed (about 500 rpm or revolutions per minute) under Rayneri stirring using a deflocculant?. Phase B (fragrance) is then added and the mixture is stirred until homogenized. Phase C pigments (including mother of pearl where applicable) are then added to mixture A and the entire mixture is blended for about 15 minutes at about 9500 rpm using an ultra turrax homogenizer. Silica from phase C is then added to the mixture and the entire mixture is stirred until homogenized (about 10 minutes at about 500 rpm).

[0201] A liquid blush composition having a uniform, fluid blush-like appearance is obtained.

[0202] Evaluation Method :

[0203] Viscosity measurement :

[0204] The viscosity is measured after obtaining the anhydrous composition, after storing the composition in an oven at 20° C. for 24 hours and after homogenization by shaking the bottle. The viscosity is measured at an ambient temperature of about 20° C. using the above-mentioned measuring device (Brookfield viscometer type LV). The device measures the torque required to rotate a mobile device "M" of given dimensions (selected according to the manufacturer's standard operating recommendations) immersed in the fluid to be tested at a given speed "V". The viscosity can be measured at a speed of 100 rpm with a mobile device numbered M63, or at a speed of 100 rpm with a mobile device numbered M62. The measurement results are expressed in cP (centipoise or mPa.s). The viscosity measurement results are listed in 4.

[0205] Stability evaluation :

[0206] The stability of the liquid compositions was studied after storage under various conditions, including accelerated aging in a thermostatic oven. For each composition, five vials were tested for stability: 6 months in the dark at room temperature (RT), 3 months at 4°C in the dark in a temperature-controlled oven, 3 months at 40°C, 1 month at 50°C, and 1 month with temperature cycling (automatic temperature cycling from -10°C to 25°C every 12 hours). After storage under these different conditions, the quality and color of the samples were evaluated by sensory analysis (appearance, color and odor). The sensory evaluation involves visually evaluating the overall characteristics of the samples after storage (color, possible sedimentation, possible agglomeration, possible oily discharge, constant fluidity over time, etc.), as well as evaluating the odor of the samples and comparing them with control compositions kept in the dark (control compositions at 4°C for comparison of color and odor; control compositions at TA for comparison of texture and application).

[0207] The stability results after storage under various test conditions (listed in Tables 1 to 4 above) show that Comparative Compositions 1 to 4 all clogged at the bottom of the bottle (agglomerated and formed a "cake", making it difficult to homogenize the complexion oil by stirring before application). In contrast, the compositions according to the invention comprising the specific combination of ingredients were both fluid and generally "stable" (even if the pigments settled slowly), i.e., there was no agglomeration or clogging, and these compositions were very easy to homogenize simply by shaking the bottle (without the need to use a metal ball in the bottle for shaking).

[0208] Performance and sensory evaluation :

[0209] The sensory properties (texture and feel, both during and after application) of composition 7 according to the invention were compared with those of three commercially available high performance "complexion oil" products:

[0210] - Comparative composition A, which contains the following ingredients: Jojoba (Simmondsia Chinensis) seed oil, dicaprylyl ether, silica, caprylic / capric triglyceride, talc, undecane, C10-18 triglycerides, kaolin, tridecane, Juglans regia seed oil, Glycine soja (soybean) oil, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, trihydroxystearin, lecithin, tocopherol; and pigments;

[0211] - Comparative composition B, which contains the following ingredients: coco-caprylate / caprate, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, octyldodecanol, persea gratissima (avocado) oil, silica, kaolin, mica, oryza sativa (rice) bran extract, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, helianthus annuus (sunflower) extract, tocopherol, meadowfoam (lily of the valley) seed oil, camellia sinensis (tea tree) seed oil, rosa canina (rose hip) oil, rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil; and pigments;

[0212] - Comparative composition C, which contains the following ingredients: Brassica oleracea (broccoli) seed oil, coco-alkanes, coco-caprylate / caprate, mica, lauroyl lysine, silica, silybum marianum (milk thistle) seed extract, azadirachta indica (neem) extract, equisetum arvense (equisetum) extract, melissa officinalis (lemon balm) extract, berberis vulgaris (barberry) extract, sea buckthorn (sea buckthorn) seed extract, sambucus nigra (elderflower) extract, bitter melon (balsam pear) extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice root) extract, tocopherol; and pigments.

[0213] 60 μL of the composition was applied to each side of the face (previously cleansed) and the skin tone oil according to the invention was compared with each commercial product on half of the face by a panel of 6 experts (trained in sensory techniques) to evaluate its sensory properties. Each bottle was first shaken and the product was then removed using a pipette. Each composition was spread on the face with the fingers and then smoothed from the center of the face outwards.

[0214] The descriptive indicators evaluated were divided into two categories:

[0215] When applying:

[0216] - Smoothness (the ability of a product to glide and spread during application, as opposed to a braking feel) - Smoothness has an impact on how easily it spreads on the skin and how evenly it is applied;

[0217] - Squeak (ability of the product to produce a friction sound during application);

[0218] - The oily sensation (feeling of a rich, oily fluid) transforms into a powdery sensation (feeling of a fine, soft, dry film on the skin);

[0219] Immediately after application:

[0220] - Greasy or oily feel (the ability of the product to leave an oily residual film on the skin surface);

[0221] - Adhesion (ability of the product to adhere to the skin, by pressing the product onto the skin with the middle finger and then lifting, the skin has the impression of being lifted);

[0222] - sheen (the ability of the product to reflect light, by tilting the face to capture it, as opposed to matte);

[0223] - Coverage (the ability of a product to cover the skin and form an opaque film, as opposed to transparent).

[0224] Comparisons are scored on a scale of -2 to 2, where:

[0225] "-2" means that the characteristics of the control according to the invention are less than those of the commercial product tested

[0226] "-1" means that the characteristics of the control according to the invention are slightly less than those of the commercial product tested.

[0227] "0" means that the characteristics of the control according to the invention are equal to or very close to the characteristics of the commercial product tested

[0228] "1" means that the characteristics of the control according to the invention are slightly greater than those of the commercial product tested

[0229] "2" means that the characteristics of the control according to the invention are greater than those of the commercial product tested.

[0230] The results of the comparative evaluation of sensory properties are listed in Table 5 below, using the average values ​​of the 6 expert panelists.

[0231]

[0232]

[0233] (Table 5)

[0234] Despite its very high content of ingredients of natural origin (over 98%), the composition according to the invention achieves sensory characteristics comparable to those of high-performance compositions on the market. In particular, it provides better smoothness, better hiding power and a more perceptible conversion effect than comparative composition A. In addition, it is smoother and less sticky than comparative composition C, which feels heavier and more difficult to spread overall. In addition, the conversion effect of the composition according to the invention is more perceptible, and it is particularly interesting that it initially feels oily, giving comfort and care to the skin, and then transforms into a powdery, soft and dry feeling. Compared to composition B, the composition according to the invention has very similar characteristics. However, the naturalness level of this product is unknown, and the composition according to the invention does not require the stirring beads present in product B.

[0235] Thus, the specific combination according to the invention makes it possible to provide complexion products in the form of anhydrous liquids with particularly interesting organoleptic properties, which contain large amounts of vegetable oils without affecting the organoleptic properties of these products. Furthermore, the specific combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain compositions of high naturalness, at least as effective as compositions on the market with lower contents of ingredients of natural origin. Finally, the combination according to the invention prevents clogging phenomena, without the need to use mixing beads in the bottle.

[0236] More generally, the composition according to the invention has a very fluid texture that is very easy to spread by a quick and even application. It brings a light tint to the skin, enhancing its color in a natural way. Moreover, immediately after application, the skin becomes more even, radiant, moisturized and soft, and its texture is more refined.

[0237] In conclusion, the composition according to the invention comprising the specific combination claimed makes it possible to reconcile all the desired properties such as flowability, stability, ease of homogenization before application, hiding power, mattness and sensory properties (easy to apply, with good slip, low tack, soft, dry film, a light oil that transforms into a fine powdery film that offers a unique sensory experience during application). Finally, the composition according to the invention provides real care and comfort to the skin, softening and moisturizing it and protecting it from drying out.

[0238] The specific combination of ingredients according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain fluid colour compositions having a high level of naturalness while providing the desired organoleptic and stability properties.

Claims

1. An anhydrous liquid cosmetic composition, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: a) at least 50% of at least one hydrocarbon oil, of which at least 10% is at least one vegetable oil; b) silicon dioxide; c) at least 0.5% of organically modified hectorite; d) at least one pigment.

2. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass content of vegetable oil is at least 12%, preferably at least 15%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the vegetable oil is selected from macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, jojoba oil, hemp oil, safflower oil, grape seed oil, sunflower oil, kuju oil, camellia oil and mixtures thereof.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, of hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silica is porous.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silica has an oil absorption capacity of at least 0.3 ml / g, preferably at least 0.5 ml / g, more preferably at least 1 ml / g.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 3% by weight, more preferably at least 4% by weight of silicon dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of silicon dioxide to the amount of hydrocarbon oil is from 1:5 to 1:30, preferably from 1:10 to 1:

25.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the organically modified hectorite is selected from stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium hectorite, quaternium-18 hectorite, disteardimethyl ammonium hectorite and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium hectorite.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass content of the organically modified hectorite is 0.5 to 3%, preferably 0.7 to 2.5%, more preferably 1 to 2%.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 7% by weight, at least 8.5% by weight, even more preferably at least 10% by weight, better still at least 12% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of organically modified hectorite to the amount of pigment is from 1:5 to 1:30, preferably from 1:8 to 1:

25.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is free of siliconized and / or fluorinated fatty compounds.

14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is free of mineral oil.

15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing at least 90% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 95% of ingredients of natural origin, according to standard NF ISO 16128.

16. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims for skin care and / or makeup, preferably as foundation or blush.

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