Cosmetic composition for cosmetic products comprising a linear or branched polyurethane having a

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for cosmetic products having a high degree of naturalness, comprising at least one linear or branched polyurethane having a natural origin index (NOI) higher than 0.85, comprising a NOI = 1 polyester polyol made at least entirely from natural components or from components of natural origin, an aliphatic diisocyanate or a triisocyanate, further included is at least one cosmetic oil having the function of a solvent for synthesizing polyurethane. The polyurethane is capable of forming a film on the skin, and preferably has gloss.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cosmetic products comprising one or more linear or branched polyurethanes with a high Natural Origin Index (NOI), obtained from polyols of natural origin, in particular selected to obtain a linear or branched structure, capable of forming a film on the skin, having unique rheological properties and good compatibility with the most common cosmetic ingredients. In its preferred embodiment, such polyurethanes have a glossy finish.

[0002] In particular, the present invention relates to formulations (preparations) of cosmetic products (of any category) having a high naturalness (content of natural origin > 80%), comprising linear or branched polyurethanes of natural origin.

[0003] The cosmetics industry is moving towards sustainability goals at a high speed, driven not only by industry regulations and standards (e.g. microplastics), but also by societal concerns about the final destination of chemicals present in each formula (e.g. silicones), chemicals used during production (e.g. ethylene oxide for PEG derivatives), ethical sourcing (palm oil and palm oil derivatives, mica, talc), the natural origin of ingredients (naturalness), energy consumption to produce ingredients and products, etc.

[0004] To meet these demands, cosmetic manufacturers must continually modify their formulations, removing undesirable ingredients and replacing them with sustainable, bio-based and biodegradable raw materials to ensure the same performance of the cosmetics. Reformulation is an everyday task for cosmetic formulators, but constantly removing undesirable ingredients from their "artist's palette" is a challenge.

[0005] According to the ISO 16128-2:2017 standard “Guide to technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients – Part 2: Ingredient and product specifications”, two recently introduced parameters regarding the natural origin of cosmetic raw materials and cosmetic products are the Natural Origin Index (NOI) or “Naturality Index” and the Natural Origin Content (NOC).

[0006] The NOI is a value indicating the degree to which a cosmetic ingredient meets the definition of a natural ingredient, a derived natural ingredient or a mineral derived ingredient as indicated in the ISO 16128-1:2016 standard “Guide to technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products – Part 1: Ingredient definitions”, available at: https: / / www.iso.org / standard / 62503.html. The NOI can take values ​​> 0.5 and ≤ 1, where 1 is the maximum degree of natural origin, and ingredients with a calculated value ≤ 0.5 have a NOI equal to 0.

[0007] The NOC of a product is the mass percentage of all natural ingredients, natural fractions of ingredients, and ingredients of natural origin in the product, between 0% and 100%. It is calculated as the sum of the relative concentrations of the ingredients in the product multiplied by their corresponding NOIs.

[0008] These parameters represent the criteria widely used today to position the naturalness of cosmetic ingredients and products, taking into account the origin of the raw materials and the processes used to produce them. Today, the demand for cosmetics with high naturalness indexes is widespread, indicating a growing awareness and consciousness among consumers about the broad topic of sustainability.

[0009] To meet these ongoing restrictions, it is of great significance to adopt previously neglected ingredients and re-evaluate them as alternatives. Nevertheless, this process is long and poorly justified because the relationship between chemical structure and physical properties, as well as the relationship between physical properties and cosmetic properties, is difficult to foresee. Therefore, the selection of alternative ingredients often requires a long and iterative "trial and error" process.

[0010] Moreover, focusing on a specific category of cosmetic raw materials such as polymers, it is far from obvious to conceive ingredients with high NOI while maintaining the performance of common polymers with petrochemical origin. The properties that cosmetic polymers can offer to finished products are the result of years of synthetic design to optimize the polymer structure, thus obtaining materials capable of forming a more or less self-compatible film on the skin surface, but in particular providing long-lasting properties and protection against all forms of water (sea water, pool water, tears, sweat, etc.).

[0011] Polyurethanes are a preferred platform for studying materials with tailored film-forming and structural properties, allowing the creation of chemical structures by choosing comonomers: diisocyanates with rigid or flexible structures (isophorone diisocyanate, IPDI or hexamethylene diisocyanate, HDI), polyols and their relative amounts, and obviously the overall stoichiometry determines the final molecular weight [Galotto N, Pirovano C, Distefano G, Saligari F, Valsesia P, Bettinelli S, Depta G, (2019) "Shaping anhydrous cosmetic products by playing with polyurethanes chemistry". 25th IFSCC Conference (Milan, Italy)]. The solvent chosen as a means of synthesis also plays an important role. In fact, the use of cosmetically acceptable ingredients, i.e. solvents compatible both with the starting monomers and with the finished product to ensure stable blending, brings great added value.

[0012] Recent patents show great interest in this subject, but none of them show that cosmetic formulations comprising polyurethanes with high NOI achieve cosmetic properties similar to those comprising formulations of petrochemical origin, with regard to the ability to form films on the skin, especially lustrous films.

[0013] US2021 / 059924 relates to the use of bio-based and biodegradable elastic rubber polyurethanes, which are formed by reticulating polyols with bio-based isocyanates, synthesized with a bismuth catalyst in the presence of cosmetic emollients. It aims to provide an alternative to cosmetic rubbers of fossil origin, in particular silicone rubbers dispersed in different cosmetic fluids. The rubber obtained is then subjected to high shear grinding to obtain particles with a size of less than 100 microns. The rubber obtained cannot be used as a film-forming polymer. NOI is not considered to be a driving factor for the conception of such elastomers and the choice of reticulated polyols. Finally, the salient features required for cosmetic polyurethanes, namely hydrophobicity and the ability to form a glossy and uniform film on the skin, are not described in the literature.

[0014] US2020 / 109231 describes an oil-gelled polyurethane that produces a transparent gel and a process for its production. The gelled polyurethane is prepared by a three-step process: 1) functionalizing a di-OH estolide with a diisocyanate derivative to obtain a diisocyanate estolide; 2) chain extension by adding a difunctional compound capable of reacting with the isocyanate of the compound, which is optionally dissolved in oil; 3) optionally, chain termination by adding a nucleophilic compound capable of reacting with the optionally residual isocyanate function. The gelled polyurethane has a high NOI and is used as a gelling agent for cosmetic products. No hint is given in the literature about its film-forming properties, let alone glossy films.

[0015] EP 3636321 describes aqueous polyurethaneurea dispersions based on polyester polyols for use as coating compositions. The polyurethanes are used in cosmetic products for hair, nails or skin.

[0016] US2016 / 272751 relates to polyurethanes derived from polyester polyol-based biomass resources for use in the manufacture of synthetic or artificial leather, sole foam resins, thermoplastic resins, thermosetting resins, coatings, laminating adhesives and elastic fibers. No cosmetic uses are contemplated; in fact, the choice of polyols is not intended to obtain polyurethanes with high adhesion to the skin and all the other cosmetic properties desired in cosmetic ingredients.

[0017] Furthermore, polymers with high NOI are available on the market, but are specifically intended for waterborne formulations, where the synthesis solvent is water: they cannot be used in anhydrous formulations that do not contain water.

[0018] The present invention is thus related to the conception of a novel polyurethane polymer with high NOI, starting from polyols of natural origin specifically selected to obtain linear and branched structures, capable of forming a more or less self-compatible film on the skin, having unique rheological properties and good compatibility with the most common cosmetic ingredients. In its preferred embodiment, such a polyurethane has a glossy makeup effect.

[0019] Based on previous research experience [Galotto N, Pirovano C, Distefano G, Saligari F, Valsesia P, Bettinelli S, Depta G, (2019) "Shaping anhydrous cosmetic products byplaying with polyurethanes chemistry". 25th IFSCC Conference (Milan, Italy)], [Distefano G, Pirovano C, Mottadelli S, La Vardera M, Vitali A, Follis R, ValsesiaP, Bettinelli S and Depta G(2015) "Glossy comb-like polyurethane film formerswith optimized cosmetic properties". 23rd IFSCC Conference (Zurich, Switzerland)], [Morlacchi S, Salanti A (2008) "Cosmetic composition comprising apolyurethane based on dialkyl tartrate diol and uses thereof, WO 2010 / 049480"] concluded that structures comprising di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate and hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol as well as HDI and / or IPDI exhibit suitable film-forming properties, adhesion to the skin and water resistance. Nevertheless, the disadvantage of C12-13 alkyl tartrate as the main monomer diol is that it is of completely petrochemical origin. In addition, the isododecane used as solvent and the diisocyanates HDI and IPDI are also of petrochemical origin.

[0020] Therefore, the synthesis must be redesigned, selecting a set of different diols with similar functionalities and aliphatic branches, providing an overall "comb-like" structure associated with skin adhesion and affinity. The use of HDI and IPDI is a necessary compromise to their source, since no completely bio-derived diisocyanates or triisocyanates are available. In addition, other synthetic routes to obtain polyurethanes without using isocyanates are not yet industrially feasible. Therefore, the strategic goal of the present invention is to propose the use of macromolecular diols with different functionalities, such as those of typical polyesters, in order to reduce the impact of diisocyanate monomers in the synthesis. Finally, if a solvent is present, it must be replaced by a volatile cosmetic oil of biological origin or a non-volatile emollient of natural origin, which has suitable compatibility with the polymer itself and the ingredients of the finished product.

[0021] Based on the foregoing, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for use in cosmetic products having a high degree of naturalness, as defined in claim 1.

[0022] The polymers of the present invention are formed from:

[0023] a) polyol polyesters with NOI=1, made entirely from natural components or of natural origin, in particular of plant origin, such as glycerol, fatty acids, dicarboxylic acids;

[0024] b) optionally adding chemically different NOI=1 polyols, such as hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol and hydrogenated castor oil and derivatives;

[0025] Combination

[0026] c) aliphatic diisocyanates or triisocyanates, preferably but not necessarily obtained from natural components or present from natural sources:

[0027] d) one or more volatile and / or non-volatile emollient cosmetic oils with high NOI (>0.85), which have the function of solvent in the synthesis, such as for example coco-caprylate / caprate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, tridecane, undecane, triheptanoin, octyldodecanol.

[0028] in particular:

[0029] a) Polyester polyol with NOI=1

[0030] Polyester polyols made exclusively from natural components or of natural origin are made from:

[0031] 1) Glycerin from natural sources;

[0032] 2) dicarboxylic acids (or mixtures of dicarboxylic acids) of natural origin;

[0033] 3) Natural fatty acids (or fatty acid mixtures) or fatty acids (or fatty acid mixtures) of natural origin.

[0034] Glycerol of natural origin can be derived from any oil that can be extracted from plants: mainly from rapeseed, sunflower seeds and palm. Glycerol of vegetable origin can be obtained through different processes of the oleochemical industry, usually as a by-product of the production of substances such as fatty acids and biodiesel.

[0035] Some examples of processes for obtaining glycerol are:

[0036] - pressure hydrolysis of glycerides, transesterification, alcoholysis of glycerides (in the production of fatty alcohols or biodiesel);

[0037] - saponification of glycerol esters with caustic soda (process for making toilet soap);

[0038] -Synthesized from propylene;

[0039] -Fermentation of simple sugars through alcohol fermentation.

[0040] Dicarboxylic acids of natural origin include succinic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dilinoleic acid, etc. Some examples of dicarboxylic acids of guaranteed plant origin available on the market are: azelaic acid under the trade name Matrilox IA001M (Matrica), derived from the conversion of vegetable oils from sustainable cultures such as milk thistle (Silybum marianum), typically grown in Sardinia (Italy); succinic acid under the trade name Biosuccinum (Roquette), derived from a "carbon negative" process of biomass fermentation; and dilinoleic acid under the commercial name Pripol 1009 (Cargill), derived from linseed oil.

[0041] For example, polyester polyols with azelaic acid suitably utilize the acid as a biological building block obtained from a biorefinery that converts biomass from a non-food plant source (Cynara cardunculus) grown in arid regions unsuitable for growing food. Substituting azelaic acid for succinic acid in the polyester structure allows for polyurethanes with high NOI, having similar properties (gloss and viscosity), but with more aliphatic character (9 carbon atoms compared to 4 carbon atoms), which can improve compatibility with non-polar ingredients. Further enhancement of the hydrophobic and adhesive properties of the material can be obtained by using dilinoleic acid, due to its structure having a longer hydrocarbon chain, which is very affinity for non-polar matrices.

[0042] Fatty acids are basic products of the oleochemical industry. They can be obtained by different industrial processes starting from different types of plants.

[0043] There are saturated and unsaturated fatty acids of different chain lengths available on the market of plant origin.

[0044] The process of hydrogenation of unsaturated fatty acids allows obtaining materials that are more stable to oxidation and rancidity and are therefore more suitable for cosmetic uses.

[0045] It is possible to use fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures having a chain of 4 carbon atoms up to 50 carbon atoms. In particular, in combination with glycerol, one or more organic dibasic acids (4-50 carbon atoms) and one or more organic monobasic acids (4-50 carbon atoms) can be used.

[0046] The building blocks of polyester polyols are combined in appropriate amounts to balance complementary mono-, di- and tri-functional reactive parts and polymerized into linear polyesters with a GPC molecular weight above 1000 Da and a residual hydroxyl functionality ranging from 50-250 mgKOH / g (preferably 170-190 mgKOH / g) capable of diisocyanate addition and chain extension.

[0047] These properties allow obtaining polyols with NOI=1, with adjustable viscosity and lubricity, suitable for the production of cosmetic linear or branched polyurethanes, wherein the introduction of urethane groups provides further hydrogen bonding sites, promotes molecular interactions between polymer molecules and with the epidermal substrate, maximizes adhesion and affinity to the skin, and provides significant film-forming properties.

[0048] b) Polyols of other chemical nature with NOI=1, such as, for example, fatty alcohol dimers derived by hydrogenation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers, and oils derived by hydrogenation of natural oils containing a plurality of hydroxyl groups, in particular hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol and hydrogenated castor oil.

[0049] The selective introduction of these polyols aims to further adjust the compatibility and rheological and structural properties of the resulting material, making it more compatible with a wider range of cosmetic oils and, at the same time, to optimize the structural and rheological properties of the polymer.

[0050] Fatty alcohol dimers are obtained by hydrogenation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers, such as, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Preferably, hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol is used, available under the trade name Pripol 2030 (Cargill).

[0051] Among the hydrogenated oils derived from natural oils containing a plurality of hydroxyl groups, hydrogenated castor oil Cutina HR Flakes (BASF) is preferred.

[0052] c) Aliphatic diisocyanates or triisocyanates, preferably but not necessarily partly made from natural components or of natural origin.

[0053] The diisocyanates and triisocyanates may be selected from the group of molecules comprising isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), bis(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane (HMDI). In addition to these isocyanates of fossil origin, isocyanates of partially natural origin are also available on the market today, such as, for example, pentamethylene diisocyanate isocyanurate (PDI trimer) with 68% bio-based carbon and three isocyanate groups under the trade name Desmodur ECON 7300 (Covestro), L-lysine diisocyanate (LDI), and a derivative of partially natural HDI under the trade name Tolonate X FLO 100 (Vencorex Chemicals), which is claimed to have 32% bio-based carbon.

[0054] d) Volatile and non-volatile cosmetic emollient oils with high NOI (>85%), functioning as solvents for synthesis, such as for example (non-exhaustive list) coco-caprylate / caprate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, tridecane, undecane, triheptanoin, octyldodecanol.

[0055] The precise selection of cosmetic oils that function as solvents in the synthesis in order to obtain a homogeneous dispersion with the polymer allows for better incorporation of new polyurethanes into cosmetic formulations and enhances film-forming, long-lasting skin adhesion and gloss properties.

[0056] The materials described in this application are the first products of a new series of naturally derived polyurethanes. Designed to improve skin adhesion, glossy appearance, long-lasting properties and good sensory properties, they also have a high natural origin index and can be used to formulate products that require a high degree of naturalness.

[0057] In particular, careful combination of selected materials can result in linear and branched polyurethanes having the rheological properties of elastic linear or branched components.

[0058] As shown in the following examples, polyurethanes were successfully synthesized.

[0059] Example 1

[0060] Synthesis of linear polyurethanes derived from succinic acid (NOI = 0.86)

[0061] %(W / W) Phase A Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 50 Polyester polyols from succinic acid 20 Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl Alcohol 16 Zinc Catalyst 0.02 IPDI 13 Phase B alcohol 0.98

[0062] Coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / caprate is selected as the cosmetic oil, wherein the polyurethane of this embodiment is synthesized. In the presence of a zinc catalyst (e.g., zinc octoate) and IPDI, the polyester polyol from succinic acid and hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol are dissolved in a solvent. The mixture is heated to 90° C. and reacted until the isocyanate is completely converted into carbamate groups in about 4 hours. A small portion of alcohol (e.g., ethanol) is added to stop the polymerization. If there is unreacted reagent, it is removed under vacuum, and then the product is cooled and discharged.

[0063] Example 2

[0064] Synthesis of branched polyurethane derived from azelaic acid (NOI = 0.92)

[0065] %(W / W) Phase A Caprylic / capric triglyceride 50 Polyester polyols from azelaic acid 25 Zinc Catalyst 0.02 HDI 7 PDI trimer 3 Phase B alcohol 0.98

[0066] Caprylic / capric triglyceride is selected as the cosmetic oil, wherein the polyurethane of this embodiment is synthesized. The polyester polyol from azelaic acid is dissolved in a solvent in the presence of a zinc catalyst (e.g., zinc octoate) and a trimer of HDI and PDI. The mixture is heated to 100°C and reacted until the isocyanate is completely converted into carbamate groups in about 3 hours. A small portion of alcohol (e.g., ethanol) is added to stop the polymerization. If there is unreacted reagent, it is removed under vacuum, and then the product is cooled and discharged.

[0067] Example 3

[0068] Synthesis of branched polyurethane derived from dilinoleic acid (NOI = 0.90)

[0069] %(W / W) Phase A Caprylic / capric triglyceride 50 Polyester polyols from dilinoleic acid 33 Hydrogenated castor oil 6 Zinc Catalyst 0.02 IPDI 10 Phase B alcohol 0.98

[0070] Caprylic / capric triglyceride is selected as cosmetic oil, wherein, the polyurethane of the present embodiment is synthesized. In the presence of a zinc catalyst (e.g., zinc octoate) and an IPDI trimer, the polyester polyol from dilinoleic acid and hydrogenated castor oil are dissolved in a solvent. The mixture is heated to 80°C and reacted until the isocyanate is completely converted into a carbamate group, in about 8h. A small portion of alcohol (e.g., ethanol) is added to stop polymerization. If there is unreacted reagent, it is removed under vacuum, then cooled and the product is discharged.

[0071] The synthesized polymers were subjected to physico-chemical characterization (ATR-FTIR, DSC, SEC-GPC) to determine their structure, thermal behavior and molecular weight. Figure 1-3 The diagram shown in , where:

[0072] Figure 1 shows a DSC graph of the linear polyurethane of Example 1, showing that the material undergoes solvent-related crystallization and melting;

[0073] Figure 2 The GPC chromatogram of the linear polyurethane of Example 1 is shown, which shows the molecular weight distribution curve of materials in the range of several orders of magnitude (1000 kDa < Mw < 1 kDa), with an elevated dispersity, and an average Mw of about 60 kDa;

[0074] Figure 3 The FT-IR spectrum of the linear polyurethane of Example 1 is shown, in which the disappearance of the NCO signal (the absence of the peak at 2226 cm -1 ) and the appearance of the peaks related to the urethane groups in the IR spectrum of the reaction mixture show the conversion of the isocyanate and the formation of the expected polyurethane.

[0075] The novel polyurethane with high NOI according to the present invention is compared with the polyurethane of petrochemical origin based on alkyl tartrate as shown in the following table.

[0076]

[0077] Gloss measurements were carried out using a tri-angle gloss meter Elcometer 407. Films were prepared on cardboard using a helical bar as an applicator. When there was volatile oil, the gloss was measured after the film was completely dry. For glossy surfaces, the accepted values were measured at 20°.

[0078] The gloss values of the polyurethane of Example 1 were 105 Gu, those of Example 2 were 78 Gu, and those of Example 3 were 73 GU, higher than those of the HDI / di-C12-14 alkyl tartrate / hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol copolymer, showing the potential for cosmetics for developing a glossy finish.

[0079] The films thus obtained are characterized by non-transferability: in fact, another objective to be solved is water and oil resistance to impart waterproof and food-proof properties to the cosmetic products containing the polyurethane.

[0080] These properties can be detected by using the contact angle with water on the film layer in order to compare the surface energies of the polymers and thus to evaluate them. The contact angles with water of the polyurethanes based on alkyl tartarates are in the range between 90°-100°, associated with an overall hydrophobic surface with good oil resistance. For comparison, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone / IPDI copolymer ethyl urethane, as a silicone-based polyurethane, has a contact angle greater than 120°, which is associated with the presence of polydimethylsiloxane functionality and is the gold standard in terms of film-forming properties, providing water- and food-resistant properties to the cosmetic products in which it is included. In this regard, the new polyurethanes are completely immiscible with water, which is an indicator of water-resistant properties, but at the same time, the contact angle of the polyurethane of Example 1 is 78.5°, the value of Example 2 is 78.0°, and the value of Example 3 is 75.5° GU, which is an indicator of higher polarity, which is conducive to better adhesion to the skin, since the adhesion is mediated by polar interactions.

[0081] Compatibility with common cosmetic ingredients was investigated and the novel materials were used as building blocks for innovative cosmetic formulations.

[0082] The desired cosmetic properties of polyurethanes with high NOI, object of the present invention, have been demonstrated in different cosmetic formulations listed below.

[0083] In the pressed powder eyeshadow with a frosty effect of Example 4, the novel polymer of Example 1 is used at 2.5% by weight of the total formula, successfully improving the adhesion and durability properties of the cosmetic film, while contributing to the shiny appearance of the pearlescent pigment without reducing the gloss of the pearls, effectively replacing the structural component of petrochemical origin (hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer).

[0084] On the other hand, the novel polymers of Examples 1 and 2 are used as gloss-boosting agents in the cosmetic linear or branched lip product of Example 5. The lip liquid provides an even, comfortable and flexible film with deep color impact and high gloss.

[0085] In the lip gloss of Example 6, the presence of the branched polyurethane (Example 3) allows to provide remarkable film-forming properties, which are associated with a pleasant texture during application, capable of remaining comfortable and glossy over time.

[0086] Example 4

[0087] Natural content of powder eyeshadow cosmetic formula NOC=97%

[0088] %(W / W) Skin Conditioners 2 Chelating agents 0.2 Tackifier 0.2 Emollients 14 Skin Conditioners 6.6 Example 1 Sample 2.5 preservative 1 Colorants 73.5

[0089] The product is characterized by high color intensity, very good skin adhesion and long-lasting properties over time.

[0090] Example 5

[0091] Lipstick cosmetic formula. Natural content percentage NOC = 80%

[0092] %(W / W) Skin Conditioners 5.8 Emollients 7.0 Antioxidants 0.1 Emollients 12.0 Skin Conditioners 36.0 Example 1 Sample 3 Example 2 Sample 2 Tackifier 3.3 Emollients 10.3 Colorants 16.2 Fillers 4.0 Fragrance 0.3

[0093] The product is characterized by high gloss, long-lasting, waterproof properties and high color rendering.

[0094] Example 6

[0095] Lip gloss cosmetic formula. Natural content 90%

[0096] %(W / W) Emollients 5.0 Antioxidants 0.2 Skin Conditioners 20.0 Example 3 Sample 25.0 Binder 13.0 Emollients 10.0 Tackifier 10.0 Colorants 10.0 Fillers 6.3 Fragrance 0.5

[0097] The product is characterised by a high gloss finish and a long-lasting nature over time.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition having a high degree of naturalness suitable for forming a film of a cosmetic product on the skin, characterized in that: The composition comprises at least one linear or branched polyurethane having a natural origin index (NOI) greater than 0.85, comprising at least: Polyol polyesters having an NOI = 1 formed entirely from natural or naturally derived components; and Aliphatic diisocyanates and / or triisocyanates, The composition further comprises at least one cosmetic oil having the function of a solvent for synthesizing polyurethane.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The linear or branched polyurethane is glossy.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein: The linear or branched polyurethane has a glossiness expressed in gloss units of 70 or more.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The linear or branched polyurethane has durable, water-resistant and food-resistant properties.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The polyol polyester with NOI=1 is composed of: Glycerol of vegetable origin obtained from any oil that can be extracted from plants, in particular rapeseed, sunflower seeds, palm; dicarboxylic acids or dicarboxylic acid mixtures of natural origin, in particular succinic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dilinoleic acid; Fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures of vegetable origin.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The components of the polyol polyester with NOI=1 are synthesized starting from glycerol, one or more organic dibasic acids (4-50 carbon atoms) and one or more organic monobasic acids (4-50 carbon atoms) or a mixture of the monobasic acids.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The aliphatic diisocyanates and / or triisocyanates consist of natural or naturally derived components.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The aliphatic diisocyanate and / or triisocyanate is selected from isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), bis(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane (HMDI), pentamethylene diisocyanate isocyanurate (PDI trimer), L-lysine diisocyanate (LDI) and HDI derivatives having 32% bio-based carbon.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The cosmetic oil is an emollient cosmetic oil, in particular coconut oil caprylate / caprate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, tridecane, undecane, triheptyl, octyldodecanol.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The linear or branched polyurethane further comprises polyols of other chemical nature with NOI=1, selected from hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol, hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohol dimers obtained by hydrogenation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and oils derived by hydrogenation of natural oils containing multiple hydroxyl groups.

11. The cosmetic composition according to one or more of claims 9 to 10, characterized in that The reaction between the polyol polyester, the diisocyanate and / or triisocyanate and optionally the polyol of another chemical nature with NOI=1 takes place in the presence of the cosmetic oil which has the function of a solvent for the synthesis of the polyurethane.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that Formulated with Natural Origin Content (NOC) >80%.

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