Whitening and elastic moistening essence and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly discloses whitening and elastic moistening essence and a preparation method thereof. The essence comprises a whitening agent, a humectant, a conditioner, a solubilizer, a preservative, an aromatic, a pH regulator and water. According to the formula, ascorbyl glucoside, alpha-arbutin, nicotinamide and glutathione which are safe, non-toxic and definite in whitening effect are adopted as whitening components, the effects of the multiple whitening components are complementary, the whitening effect is improved, meanwhile, the application range is widened, particularly, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and 1, 10-phenanthroline nickel dichloride are added at the same time to serve as solubilizing agents, and the skin whitening effect is improved. The skin permeability of the whitening component is greatly improved, and the defect that the whitening component in the background technology is difficult to reach the acting part is overcome. Meanwhile, the natural plant extract is used as a conditioning component, so that the skin is conditioned, and the moisturizing and moistening effects are good.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and more specifically discloses a whitening and moisturizing essence and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] In contemporary society, people invest more and more in their external image, especially the facial image. The management of facial skin is the beginning of daily life. There is a wide variety of facial cosmetics on the market. Especially young women invest a large amount of time and economic cost in facial maintenance, and this trend is also rapidly reflected in men and women of other age groups. Therefore, the facial cosmetics market is bound to increase. A delicate skin color has always been pursued by people. Worldwide, especially in most parts of Asia, the demand for freckle-removing and whitening cosmetics is increasing.

[0003] Skin pigmentation is one of the most prominent and variable phenotypes of humans. Melanin synthesis in melanocytes plays a decisive role in skin color. Melanocytes can produce two types of melanin, eumelanin and pheomelanin, which can make the skin appear different colors. The formation of melanin is a complex pathway. Its production is a self-protection mechanism of the body that can protect the skin from ultraviolet damage. At present, the generally accepted mechanism of melanin formation is that under the action of tyrosinase, tyrosine gradually generates dopaquinone, which is then automatically oxidized to generate dopa and dopachrome. Subsequently, dopachrome generates 5,6-dihydroxyindolecarboxylic acid and 5,6-dihydroxyindole under the action of dopachrome tautomerase, and finally generates eumelanin through a series of oxidation reactions. When glutathione or cysteine ​​is present, dopaquinone is converted into glutathione dopa and cysteinyl dopa, and finally converted and polymerized into pheomelanin. For skin whitening, most studies focus on inhibiting melanocyte maturation or interfering with the signaling pathways of melanin formation. Tyrosinase is mainly involved in the initial rate-limiting reaction of melanin synthesis and is a key enzyme in the melanin synthesis pathway. Therefore, it has become the main target for inhibiting melanin production. The whitening effect is mainly achieved through the following methods: (1) Inhibiting melanin production, mainly inhibiting various enzymes required for melanin formation, or inhibiting oxidation reactions through reducing agents; (2) Promoting melanin metabolism; (3) Regulating key metabolic pathways of melanin. The active ingredients used in many traditional whitening cosmetics are not safe in themselves, and different countries have regulated their usage. my country's "Technical Guidelines for Special Cosmetics for Spot Removal and Whitening" stipulates the scientific and reasonable dosage of spot removal and whitening agents in the formula, which should take into account both safety and effectiveness, and strengthen the supervision of such cosmetics. Since whitening ingredients often have safety restrictions, new technical solutions or new ingredients are needed to solve this prominent problem. With the change of consumer concepts, people are increasingly preferring some natural beauty products. Natural plant extracts are gradually entering the public eye and are loved by more and more consumers. However, many plant ingredients have whitening effects in in vitro studies, but they are often not effective as skin care ingredients alone. Whitening essences containing their formulas cannot effectively penetrate the skin to exert their whitening effects. Summary of the invention

[0004] The present invention mainly provides a whitening and elastic essence and a preparation method thereof, which can solve the problem that the components in the current essence have whitening effects in in vitro studies, but cannot penetrate the skin well to reach the site of action. At the same time, multiple whitening ingredients are used to better exert the whitening effect and expand the range of people who can benefit from it.

[0005] To solve the above technical problems, according to one aspect of the present invention, more specifically, a whitening and elastic essence comprises a whitening agent, a moisturizing agent, a conditioning agent, a solubilizing agent, a preservative, a fragrance, a pH adjusting agent, and water; wherein:

[0006] The whitening agents are ascorbyl glucoside, α-arbutin, niacinamide, and glutathione;

[0007] The moisturizing agents are sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, butylene glycol, 1,2 - hexanediol, and 1,3 - propanediol;

[0008] The conditioning agents are sodium hyaluronate, Zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract, Forsythia suspense extract, 2 - [4 - (2 - hydroxyethyl)piperazin - 1 - yl]ethanesulfonic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, Avena sativa kernel extract, and Mentha piperita leaf extract;

[0009] The solubilizers are PEG - 40 hydrogenated castor oil and nickel(II) 1,10 - phenanthroline dichloride;

[0010] The preservatives are phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin;

[0011] The fragrance is rose oil;

[0012] The pH regulator is arginine.

[0013] Furthermore, the mass percentages of the whitening agents are: ascorbyl glucoside 0.1 - 3%, α - arbutin 0.1 - 3%, niacinamide 1 - 5%, and glutathione 0.05 - 2%.

[0014] Furthermore, the mass percentages of the moisturizing agents are: sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate 0.5 - 5%, butylene glycol 1 - 5%, 1,2 - hexanediol 0.1 - 2%, and 1,3 - propanediol 1 - 5%.

[0015] Furthermore, the mass percentages of the conditioning agents are: sodium hyaluronate 0.05 - 0.5%, the combination of Zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract and Forsythia suspense extract 0.1 - 3%, 2 - [4 - (2 - hydroxyethyl)piperazin - 1 - yl]ethanesulfonic acid 0.5 - 3%, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.05 - 1%, Avena sativa kernel extract 0.001 - 0.01%, and Mentha piperita leaf extract 0.001 - 0.01%.

[0016] Furthermore, the mass percentages of the solubilizers are: PEG - 40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.01 - 1%, and nickel(II) 1,10 - phenanthroline dichloride 0.1 - 5%.

[0017] Furthermore, the mass percentages of the preservatives are: phenoxyethanol 0.05 - 1%, and chlorphenesin 0.01 - 1%.

[0018] Furthermore, the mass percentage of the fragrance is rose oil 0.001 - 0.05%.

[0019] Furthermore, the mass percentage of the pH regulator is: arginine 0.1 - 3%.

[0020] According to another aspect of the present invention, a method for preparing a whitening and firming essence is provided, comprising the following steps:

[0021] S1. Add sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate, 1,2 - hexanediol, and the balance of water in the formula weight ratio into a stirring tank, stir and heat up to 75 - 85 °C, homogenize for 3 - 10 min, and cool down to 40 - 45 °C to obtain Material A;

[0022] S2. Add ascorbyl glucoside, arginine, Zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract, Forsythia suspense extract, chlorphenesin, N - (2 - hydroxyethyl)piperazine - N' - ethanesulfonic acid, α - arbutin, niacinamide, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, Avena sativa kernel extract, 1,3 - propanediol, phenoxyethanol, Mentha arvensis leaf extract, PEG - 40 hydrogenated castor oil, nickel(II) 1,10 - phenanthroline dichloride, and rose flower oil in the formula weight ratio to the Material A prepared in S1, stir for 20 - 40 min to obtain Material B;

[0023] S3. Add glutathione in the formula weight ratio to the Material B prepared in S2, control the temperature at 40 °C, stir for 10 - 15 min, and discharge to obtain the finished product of the whitening and elasticizing essence.

[0024] The beneficial effects of the whitening and elasticizing essence and its preparation method of the present invention are as follows: The formula of the present invention uses ascorbyl glucoside, α - arbutin, niacinamide, and glutathione, which are safe, non - toxic, and have a clear whitening effect, as whitening components. The multiple whitening components act in coordination, improving the whitening effect and expanding the user population. In particular, PEG - 40 hydrogenated castor oil and nickel(II) 1,10 - phenanthroline dichloride are added as solubilizers at the same time, greatly improving the skin permeability of the whitening components and solving the defect that the whitening components are not easily reached the action site mentioned in the background technology. At the same time, natural plant extracts are used as conditioning components to take into account skin conditioning, and the moisturizing and emollient effects are good. Detailed Embodiments

[0025] The following will describe the present invention in detail with reference to the embodiments. It should be noted that, without conflict, the embodiments in the present application and the features in the embodiments can be combined with each other.

[0026] Example 1

[0027] Weigh 0.5% of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 5% of butanediol, 0.5% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1% of 1,2 - hexanediol, and 85.889% of water by weight ratio and add them into a stirring tank, stir and heat up to 75 °C, homogenize for 3 min, and cool down to 40 °C to obtain Material A;

[0028] Add 1% ascorbyl glucoside, 0.8% arginine, 2.5% composition of fructus zanthoxyli extract and forsythia suspense extract, 0.5% chlorphenesin, 0.5% 2-[4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazin-1-yl]ethanesulfonic acid, 0.1% α-arbutin, 1.0% niacinamide, 0.05% dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.1% oat kernel extract, 1.0% 1,3-propanediol, 0.05% phenoxyethanol, 0.05% peppermint leaf extract, 0.01% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.3% nickel(II) 1,10-phenanthroline dichloride, 0.001% rose flower oil by weight to the above-mentioned Material A, and stir for 20 min to obtain Material B;

[0029] Add 0.05% glutathione by weight to the above-mentioned Material B, control the temperature at 40 °C, stir for 10 min, and discharge to obtain the whitening and moisturizing essence sample 1. The ingredient list is shown in Table 1 below.

[0030] Table 1 Whitening and Moisturizing Essence Formula 1

[0031]

[0032] Example 2

[0033] Weigh 5% sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 5% butanediol, 0.5% sodium hyaluronate, 2% 1,2-hexanediol, 52.95% water by weight and add them to a stirring tank. Stir and heat up to 85 °C, homogenize for 10 min, and cool down to 45 °C to obtain Material A;

[0034] Add 2% ascorbyl glucoside, 2.5% arginine, 3% composition of fructus zanthoxyli extract and forsythia suspense extract, 1% chlorphenesin, 2% 2-[4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazin-1-yl]ethanesulfonic acid, 3% α-arbutin, 5% niacinamide, 0.5% dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1% oat kernel extract, 5% 1,3-propanediol, 0.5% phenoxyethanol, 1% peppermint leaf extract, 1% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 5% nickel(II) 1,10-phenanthroline dichloride, 0.05% rose flower oil by weight to the above-mentioned Material A, and stir for 40 min to obtain Material B;

[0035] Add 0.05% glutathione by weight to the above-mentioned Material B, control the temperature at 40 °C, stir for 15 min, and discharge to obtain the whitening and moisturizing essence sample 2. The ingredient list is shown in Table 2 below.

[0036] Table 2 Whitening and Moisturizing Essence Formula 2

[0037]

[0038] Example 3

[0039] Weigh 2% of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 3% of butanediol, 0.25% of sodium hyaluronate, 1% of 1,2 - hexanediol, and 74.225% of water by weight ratio and add them to a stirring tank. Stir and heat up to 80 degrees Celsius, homogenize for 8 minutes, and then cool down to 43 degrees Celsius to obtain Material A;

[0040] Add 1.5% of ascorbyl glucoside, 1.5% of arginine, 1.5% of the composition of Zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract and Forsythia suspensa extract, 0.5% of chlorphenesin, 2% of hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid, 1.5% of α - arbutin, 3% of niacinamide, 0.5% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.5% of oat kernel extract, 3% of 1,3 - propanediol, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol, 1% of Mentha arvensis leaf extract, 0.5% of PEG - 40 hydrogenated castor oil, 1% of nickel(II) 1,10 - phenanthroline dichloride, and 0.025% of rose flower oil by weight ratio to the above - mentioned Material A, and stir for 40 minutes to obtain Material B;

[0041] Add 1.0% of glutathione by weight ratio to the above - mentioned Material B, control the temperature at 40 degrees Celsius, stir for 15 minutes, and discharge to obtain the whitening and elasticizing essence sample 3. The ingredient list is shown in Table 3 below.

[0042] Table 3 Whitening and Elasticizing Essence Formula 3

[0043]

[0044] Comparative Example 1

[0045] Weigh 2% of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 3% of butanediol, 0.25% of sodium hyaluronate, 1% of 1,2 - hexanediol, and 74.725% of water by weight ratio and add them to a stirring tank. Stir and heat up to 80 degrees Celsius, homogenize for 8 minutes, and then cool down to 43 degrees Celsius to obtain Material A;

[0046] Add 1.5% of ascorbyl glucoside, 1.5% of arginine, 1.5% of the composition of Zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract and Forsythia suspensa extract, 0.5% of chlorphenesin, 2% of hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid, 1.5% of α - arbutin, 3% of niacinamide, 0.5% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.5% of oat kernel extract, 3% of 1,3 - propanediol, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol, 1% of Mentha arvensis leaf extract, 1% of nickel(II) 1,10 - phenanthroline dichloride, and 0.025% of rose flower oil by weight ratio to the above - mentioned Material A, and stir for 40 minutes to obtain Material B;

[0047] Add 1.0% of glutathione by weight ratio to the above - mentioned Material B, control the temperature at 40 degrees Celsius, stir for 15 minutes, and discharge to obtain the whitening and elasticizing essence sample 4. The ingredient list is shown in Table 4 below.

[0048] Table 4 Whitening and Elasticizing Essence Formula 4

[0049]

[0050] Comparative Example 2

[0051] Weigh and take 2% of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 3% of butanediol, 0.25% of sodium hyaluronate, 1% of 1,2 - hexanediol, and 75.225% of water by weight ratio and add them to a stirring tank. Stir and heat up to 80 °C, homogenize for 8 min, and then cool down to 43 °C to obtain Material A;

[0052] Add 1.5% of ascorbyl glucoside, 1.5% of arginine, 1.5% of the composition of Zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract and Forsythia suspense extract, 0.5% of chlorphenesin, 2% of 2 - [4 - (2 - hydroxyethyl)piperazin - 1 - yl]ethanesulfonic acid, 1.5% of α - arbutin, 3% of niacinamide, 0.5% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.5% of oat kernel extract, 3% of 1,3 - propanediol, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol, 1% of Mentha arvensis L. extract, 0.5% of PEG - 40 hydrogenated castor oil, and 0.025% of rose flower oil by weight ratio to the above - mentioned Material A, and stir for 40 min to obtain Material B;

[0053] Add 1.0% of glutathione by weight ratio to the above - mentioned Material B, control the temperature at 40 °C, stir for 15 min, and discharge to obtain the whitening and elasticizing essence sample 5. The ingredient list is shown in Table 5 below.

[0054] Table 5 Whitening and Elasticizing Essence Formula 5

[0055]

[0056] Skin Absorption and Diffusion Cell Test:

[0057] Turn on the transdermal absorption instrument, thaw and process the pigskin in advance. Wet the receiving cell in physiological saline, and set the temperature of the water bath to (30 ± 0.5) °C; add 10 mL of physiological saline to the receiving cell, fix the processed pigskin between the supply cell and the receiving cell of the diffusion cell, take 450 μL of the essence finished products prepared in the examples and comparative examples and place them above the pigskin in the supply cell, with 5 parallels in each group; assemble the diffusion cell. After 12 h, after sampling the sample in the supply cell, wash the supply cell 3 times with 1 mL of physiological saline each time, combine the washing liquid and the solution in the supply cell; use a utility knife to evenly cut the pigskin into 6 pieces and place them in a stoppered test tube, add 5 mL of 70% methanol to the test tube, ultrasonicate for 30 min, centrifuge after ultrasonication is completed, and collect the filtrate; transfer the receiving liquid in the receiving cell to a stoppered test tube, filter the collected solution with a 0.45 μm microporous filter membrane, and take the filtrate to detect the content of α - arbutin by HPLC, as shown in Table 6 below.

[0058] Table 6 Detection Results of α - Arbutin Content in Skin

[0059]

[0060] The test results show that the content of α-arbutin in the pigskin of the test group of sample 3 is as high as 86.9%, which is 2.4 times that of formula 5 without adding nickel dichloride 1,10-phenanthroline, indicating that the elaeagnus mollis oil can significantly increase the permeability of arbutin, and α-arbutin is an effective tyrosinase inhibitor, which can inhibit the synthesis of skin melanin, thus proving that the product has better whitening effect; increasing the formulation ratio of α-arbutin can significantly increase the content of α-arbutin in the skin, but the content ratio decreases; samples 4 and 5 show that the effect of adding PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil or nickel dichloride 1,10-phenanthroline alone is significantly inferior to that of sample 3 with the addition of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and nickel dichloride 1,10-phenanthroline at the same time, indicating that the composite formula of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and nickel dichloride 1,10-phenanthroline can play a synergistic role.

[0061] Determination of stratum corneum water content and subjective evaluation of subjects:

[0062] Inclusion criteria for test subjects: 20 healthy Chinese female subjects aged 18 - 35 years, with the transdermal water loss TWEL value of the cheeks ≥ 15 g / (h·m 2 ).

[0063] Usage method of essence: After the subjects clean their faces, take an appropriate amount of essence water and evenly apply it on the face, use it once in the morning and evening every day, gently massage until completely absorbed, and use it continuously for 30 days. During the use period of the subjects, cosmetics with the same efficacy are not allowed to be used, and long-term outdoor sports are not allowed.

[0064] Determination of stratum corneum water content: Use a Corneometer CM825 stratum corneum water content tester to measure the skin capacitance value and analyze the degree of skin surface hydration. The same part of the face is selected for each measurement, and a total of 5 measurements are taken, and the average value is taken. The higher the parameter value, the higher the water content of the skin stratum corneum.

[0065] Subjective evaluation of subjects: Before and 30 days after using the product, the subjects are asked about their subjective feelings of skin elasticity and smoothness through a questionnaire to evaluate the skin state before and after using the product. The scoring standard is 0 - 10 points. The higher the subjective feelings of skin elasticity and smoothness, the higher the score. The average score of multiple subjects is taken. The test results are shown in Table 7 below.

[0066] Subjective evaluation of subjects: Before and 30 days after using the product, the subjects are asked about their subjective feelings of skin elasticity and smoothness through a questionnaire to evaluate the skin state before and after using the product. The scoring standard is 0 - 10 points. The higher the subjective feelings of skin elasticity and smoothness, the higher the score. The average score of multiple subjects is taken. The test results are shown in Table 7 below.

[0067] Table 7 Summary table of skin moisture and subjective evaluation

[0068]

[0069] The above test results show that after 30 days of using the essence solution of this scheme, the water content of the skin cutin layer has increased by 38.7%, which has a good effect of maintaining skin elasticity and moisture, and the acceptance degree of the subjects is very high.

[0070] Of course, the above description is not a limitation of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to the above examples. Changes, modifications, additions or substitutions made by those of ordinary skill in the art within the scope of the essence of the present invention also fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A whitening and elastic essence, characterized in that: Contains whitening agent, moisturizer, conditioner, solubilizer, preservative, fragrance, pH adjuster, water; among which: The whitening agents are ascorbyl glucoside, α-arbutin, niacinamide, and glutathione; The humectants are sodium pyrrolidone hydroxy acid, butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,3-propylene glycol; The conditioning agents are sodium hyaluronate, Zanthoxylum fruit extract, Forsythia suspensa extract, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, oat kernel extract, and peppermint leaf extract; The solubilizers are PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and 1,10-phenanthroline nickel dichloride; The preservatives are phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin; The fragrance is rose oil; The pH adjuster is arginine.

2. The whitening and elasticizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentages of the whitening agent are: ascorbyl glucoside 0.1-3%, α-arbutin 0.1-3%, niacinamide 1-5%, and glutathione 0.05-2%.

3. The whitening and elasticizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentage of the moisturizing agent is: 0.5-5% sodium pyrrolidone hydroxy acid, 1-5% butylene glycol, 0.1-2% 1,2-hexanediol, and 1-5% 1,3-propylene glycol.

4. The whitening and elasticizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentages of the conditioning agents are: sodium hyaluronate 0.05-0.5%, Zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract and Forsythia suspensa extract composition 0.1-3%, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid 0.5-3%, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.05-1%, oat kernel extract 0.001-0.01%, and peppermint leaf extract 0.001-0.01%.

5. The whitening and elasticizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentage of the solubilizer is: 0.01-1% of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and 0.1-5% of 1,10-phenanthroline nickel dichloride.

6. The whitening and elasticizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentages of preservatives are: phenoxyethanol 0.05-1%, chlorphenesin 0.01-1%.

7. The whitening and elasticizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentage of the aromatic agent is: rose oil 0.001-0.05%.

8. The whitening and elasticizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentage of pH adjuster is: arginine 0.1-3%.

9. A method for preparing the whitening and elastic essence according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1. Add sodium pyrrolidone hydroxy acid, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, 1,2-hexanediol and the remaining water in the formula into a stirring tank according to the weight ratio of the formula, stir and heat to 75-85 degrees Celsius, homogenize for 3-10 minutes, and cool to 40-45 degrees Celsius to obtain material A; S2, add ascorbyl glucoside, arginine, Zanthoxylum fruit extract, Forsythia suspensa extract, chlorphenesin, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, α-arbutin, niacinamide, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, oat kernel extract, 1,3-propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, peppermint leaf extract, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 1,10-phenanthroline nickel dichloride, and rose oil in a formula weight ratio to the material A prepared in S1, and stir for 20-40 minutes to obtain material B; S3. Add glutathione in the formula weight ratio to material B prepared in S2, control the temperature at 40 degrees Celsius, stir for 10-15 minutes, and discharge the material to obtain a finished whitening and elastic essence.

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