Cosmetic hair care composition comprising a cationic surfactant and a specific aminosilicone

Abstract

Cosmetic hair care compositions comprising a cationic surfactant and a specific amino silicone, and methods of cosmetic hair treatment. The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising one or more cationic surfactants and one or more specific amino silicones having an amino number in the range of 0.1 to 0.29 meq / g and a weight average molecular mass in the range of 10,000 to 100,000. The invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method using said composition.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising one or more cationic surfactants and one or more specific aminosilicones, and to a cosmetic hair treatment method using said composition.

[0002] Hair is sensitive to multiple types of aggression and can be embrittled and damaged to various degrees by the external environment, particularly by atmospheric factors such as light, air pollution and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving and / or relaxing, or even repeated washing.

[0003] Then, the properties of damaged hair are deteriorated and various manifestations of the damage can be seen, such as difficulties in detangling and styling the hair, lack of softness of the hair, and the hair may become dry, brittle or dull over time, particularly at the weak points and more particularly at the ends.

[0004] To overcome these drawbacks and, in particular, to repair damaged hair, it is common practice to use cosmetic hair compositions for conditioning the hair by conferring on it satisfactory cosmetic properties. Current compositions generally aim to reduce the surface defects of the hair, particularly by depositing compounds with regulatory affinity, such as silicones and more particularly aminosilicones. The effects obtained are generally based on the use of high contents of silicone, which, however, may have the drawback of a weighing-down effect or loss of brightness of the full head of hair.

[0005] In addition, although there are many care formulations for hair repair, they generally do not confer fully satisfactory and long-lasting cosmetic properties on the hair, most particularly when the hair is very embrittled, sensitized or damaged. Thus, it has been observed that for the most damaged hair, the level of care may be insufficient; in particular, the smoothness properties (visual and tactile) of the full head of hair and its softness can be further improved.

[0006] In addition, these effects are generally only perceptible at the time of application and for a few hours thereafter.

[0007] Finally, the use of high silicone contents may be regarded as disadvantageous by consumers.

[0008] Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to propose a cosmetic hair care composition which solves the above problems and, in particular, will provide a high level of care and conditioning for the hair, particularly the most damaged hair, these effects being perceptible even at low contents of aminosilicone.

[0009] Another object of the present invention is to propose a composition which is effective in conferring cosmetic properties on the hair both at the time of application and also in a manner which persists over time.

[0010] One subject of the present invention is a cosmetic hair care composition comprising:

[0011] - one or more aminosilicones of formula (I) as defined below, and

[0012] - one or more cationic surfactants.

[0013] It has been observed that, under appropriate circumstances, such as when the composition is in the form of a shampoo or a hair conditioner to be rinsed off, the composition according to the invention is easy to rinse off, such that it is possible to avoid using a large amount of water to eliminate it.

[0014] After application, it imparts a good level of care, in particular tactile and visual smoothness properties, softness, an even coating from the roots to the tips, and thus repairs damaged tips, and also finally imparts a clean and natural feel to the hair without making it limp. The care and repair benefits are very evident, while maintaining added value in terms of brightness and cleanliness.

[0015] When the composition is applied to curly hair, it has also been observed that there is better curl definition, as well as care manageability and control effects, and good volume control.

[0016] These care, brightness and cleanliness sensory properties are significant immediately after application and remain perceptible for at least 24 hours, or until the next shampoo wash. They can even persist after shampoo washing.

[0017] Furthermore, these cosmetic performance qualities, in particular detangling, softness, smoothness and coating, can advantageously be obtained at a low silicone content, in particular at a content lower than that commonly used.

[0018] In the present specification, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0019] - the term "molecular weight" is equivalent to the term "molecular mass";

[0020] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be replaced by it;

[0021] - the expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and can be replaced by it, and means that the limiting values are included.

[0022] In the context of the present invention, a "cosmetic hair care composition" means a cosmetic composition for washing (or cleansing) hair and / or for conditioning hair.

[0023] The composition can be in any form conceivable by a person skilled in the art and can contain additional ingredients commonly used in this type of composition.

[0024] The cosmetic hair care composition, in particular for washing and / or conditioning hair, can be, for example, a shampoo, a pre-shampoo (applied before the shampoo), a hair conditioner, a hair mask, a hair serum, and these compositions can be rinsed off or left on after application.

[0025] In a known manner, the composition can be in the form of a relatively thick gel, a hair lotion, and a care cream.

[0026] In the context of the present invention, the cosmetic hair care composition is preferably a pre-shampoo, a hair conditioner, a hair mask, a hair serum, and these compositions can be rinsed off or left on after application.

[0027] Thus, the composition can contain, in a known manner, one or more surfactants, one or more non-silicone fatty substances, one or more additional silicones, one or more polymers, one or more thickeners, one or more polyols, and mixtures of these various ingredients.

[0028] Aminosilicone

[0029] The composition according to the invention contains one or more aminosilicones of formula (I):

[0030]

[0031] wherein:

[0032] -R is the same or different and represents methyl (CH3), hydroxy (OH), or an alkoxy group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms (OR1, where R1 = C1-C4 alkyl);

[0033] -R' represents methyl (CH3) or hydroxy (OH);

[0034] -A is a straight-chain or branched divalent alkylene group containing 3 or 4 carbon atoms;

[0035] The aminosilicone has an amine value in the range of 0.1 to 0.29 meq / g and a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) in the range of 10,000 to 100,000.

[0036] Preferably, R is the same or different and represents methyl and / or hydroxy. Even better, the two groups R are the same and represent methyl or hydroxy, and even better still methyl.

[0037] Preferably, R' represents methyl.

[0038] Preferably, A is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group containing 3 or 4 carbon atoms; more preferably, a straight-chain group containing 3 carbon atoms (-CH2CH2CH2-).

[0039] In formula (I), the values of n and m are selected such that the aminosilicone has an amine value in the range of 0.1 to 0.29 meq / g and a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) in the range of 10,000 to 100,000.

[0040] Preferably, the aminosilicone of formula (I) has an amine value in the range of 0.1 to 0.25 meq / g, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 0.19 meq / g, and even more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 0.16 meq / g.

[0041] Preferably, the aminosilicone of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) in the range of 20,000 to 70,000, more preferably 25,000 to 50,000, and even more preferably 35,000 to 45,000.

[0042] A person skilled in the art will know, based on their general knowledge, how to determine the values of n and m in order to obtain a silicone with the desired amine value and molecular mass.

[0043] Preferably, in formula (I), m is between 1.4 and 13, more preferably between 1.4 and 9, and even more preferably between 1.5 and 5, and the n / m ratio is between 45 and 330, more preferably between 100 and 300.

[0044] Therefore, the value of n can be easily determined based on all these data; in particular, n can be between 400 and 600.

[0045] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more aminosilicones of formula (I):

[0046]

[0047] wherein:

[0048] -R (which are the same) and R', represent methyl,

[0049] -A is a straight-chain or branched divalent alkylene group containing 3 or 4 carbon atoms; preferably a straight-chain divalent alkylene group containing 3 carbon atoms (-CH2CH2CH2-),

[0050] The aminosilicone has an amine value in the range of 0.1 to 0.19 meq / g and a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) in the range of 25,000 to 50,000.

[0051] Preferably, in this embodiment, m is between 1.4 and 13, the n / m ratio is between 45 and 300, and n can be between 400 and 600.

[0052] The aminosilicone of formula (I) preferably has a dynamic viscosity measured at 25 °C and 1 atm in the range of 2 to 8 Pa·s (2000 - 8000 cps), more preferably 3 to 6 Pa·s (3000 - 6000 cps), and even more preferably 3 to 5 Pa·s.

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an aminosilicone of formula (I) in a total content that can range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.002% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The aminosilicone of formula (I) can be prepared by any means conventionally employed in the silicone industry.

[0055] Cationic surfactant

[0056] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

[0057] The cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is, they do not contain any Si - O groups.

[0058] They are preferably selected from quaternary ammonium salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants, which are individually or as a mixture selected from the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0060] - Compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II):

[0061]

[0062] Wherein:

[0063] X - is an anion selected in particular from the group consisting of halide ions, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C1 - C4) alkyl sulfate, (C1 - C4) alkyl sulfonate or (C1 - C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate;

[0064] The groups R1 to R4 can be the same or different and represent straight-chain or branched aliphatic groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or aromatic groups such as aryl or alkylaryl, and at least one of the groups R1 to R4 denotes a straight-chain or branched aliphatic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0065] The aliphatic groups can contain heteroatoms, especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen. The aliphatic groups are for example selected from C1-C 30 alkyl, C1-C 30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C 30 alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylamidino (C2-C6) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate and C1-C 30 hydroxyalkyl.

[0066] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts are preferably considered, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, where the alkyl includes about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyldimethylcetyloctylammonium salts, or stearylamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts, such as those sold by Van Dyk under the name 70.

[0067] Particularly preferably, the chlorides, bromides or methyl sulfates of these compounds are used.

[0068] -Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III):

[0069]

[0070] wherein R5 represents for example an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halide ions, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl sulfonate or alkyl aryl sulfonate, where the alkyl and aryl preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively.

[0071] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups having 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group and R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0072] Such products are, for example, sold by Rewo under the name W 75.

[0073] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts of the formula (IV):

[0074]

[0075] where

[0076] R9 denotes an alkyl group having approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0077] R 10 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or the group (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH2)3, where R 9a 、R 10a 、R 11a 、R 11 、R 12 、R 13 and R 14 are the same or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0078] X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of: halide ions, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate and (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0079] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) sold by Finetex and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) sold by Finetex.

[0080] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, such as those of the following formula (V):

[0081]

[0082] where:

[0083] R 15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl;

[0084] R 16 Selected from the group R 19 -C(O)-; the group R 20 , which is a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 22 hydrocarbon-based group; a hydrogen atom;

[0085] R 18 Selected from the group R21-C(O)-; the group R 22 , which is a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group; a hydrogen atom;

[0086] R 17 、R 19 and R 21 are the same or different and are selected from straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated C7-C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

[0087] r, s, and t are the same or different and are integers in the range of 2 to 6;

[0088] y is an integer in the range of 1 to 10;

[0089] x and z are the same or different and are integers in the range of 0 to 10;

[0090] X - is a simple or complex organic or inorganic anion;

[0091] provided that the sum of x + y + z is from 1 to 15; when x is 0, then R 16 denotes R 20 ; and when z is 0, then R 18 denotes R 22 .

[0092] The alkyl group R 15 can be straight-chain or branched-chain and is more particularly straight-chain. Preferably, R 15 denotes methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, or dipropylol, and more particularly methyl or ethyl.

[0093] Advantageously, the sum of x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[0094] When R 16 is the hydrocarbon-based group R 20 , it may be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0095] When R 18 is the hydrocarbon-based group R 22 , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0096] Advantageously, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 are the same or different and are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0097] Preferably, x and z are the same or different and are equal to 0 or 1.

[0098] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0099] Preferably, r, s and t are the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0100] The anion X - is preferably a halide ion (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, mesylate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids (such as acetate or lactate), or any other anion compatible with an ammonium bearing an ester functional group can be used.

[0101] The anion X - is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0102] In the composition according to the invention, an ammonium salt of formula (V) can more particularly be used, in which R 15 denotes methyl or ethyl, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;

[0103] R 16 is selected from the group R 19 -C(O)-; methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and the hydrogen atom;

[0104] R 18 is selected from the group R 21 -C(O)- and the hydrogen atom;

[0105] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 are the same or different and are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and are preferably selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0106] Advantageously, these hydrocarbon-based groups are straight-chain.

[0107] Compounds of formula (V) may be mentioned, such as diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium and monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium salts (especially chlorides or methyl sulfates) and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly are derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

[0108] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine (which may optionally be oxyalkylated) with C 10 -C 30 fatty acids or mixtures of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl halide or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, chloroethylene glycol or chloroglycerol.

[0109] Such compounds are sold, for example, by Henkel under the name by Stepan under the name by CECA under the name by Rewo-Witco under the name WE 18.

[0110] The hair care composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary monoester, diester and triester salts, the majority by weight being diester salts.

[0111] It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

[0112] It is possible to use behenoyl hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by Kao under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

[0113] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester function contains two ester functions.

[0114] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, preference is given to using the dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium salt.

[0115] The term "fatty amine" means a compound containing at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylated primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group, or a salt thereof, and containing at least one C6-C 30 and preferably C8-C 30 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0116] Preferably, the fatty amines available according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0117] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be selected from fatty amidoamines, where the fatty chain may be carried by an amine group or by an amide group.

[0118] The term "amidoamine" means a compound containing at least one amide functional group and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group.

[0119] The term "fatty amidoamine" means an amidoamine generally containing at least one C6-C 30 hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines available according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0120] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines available according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0121] Among the fatty amidoamines available according to the invention, the following amidoamines of formula (VI) may be mentioned:

[0122] RCONHR”N(R’)2 (VI)

[0123] where:

[0124] -R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and especially a straight-chain or branched-chain C5-C 29 and preferably C7-C 23 alkyl group, or a straight-chain or branched-chain C5-C 29 and preferably C7-C 23 alkenyl group;

[0125] -R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and even more preferably 3 carbon atoms; and

[0126] -R’ is the same or different and represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl.

[0127] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are selected from, for example, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (especially the product sold by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13), isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soy oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocado oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocoamidopropyl dimethylamine, mink oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesameamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, olive oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, rapeseed oilamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Preferably, the fatty amidoamine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, rapeseed oilamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0129] The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above and mixtures thereof; more preferably from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from those of formula (II) above.

[0130] Preferably, the cationic surfactant, alone or as a mixture, can be selected from salts of tetraalkylammonium such as chlorides, bromides or methyl sulfates, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, wherein the alkyl includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium or benzyl dimethylstearylammonium salts; salts of dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, such as dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl methyl sulfate ammonium; and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, they are selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl methyl sulfate ammonium, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Preferably, the composition according to the invention can comprise the one or more cationic surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0132] Nonionic surfactant

[0133] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0134] The non-ionic surfactants may be selected from:

[0135] - alcohols, α-diols and (C1-C 20 ) alkylphenols, which compounds are polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy groups may range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups ranges from 2 to 30; or alternatively these compounds comprise at least one fatty chain, which at least one fatty chain comprises from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular, oxyethylenated alcohols, which oxyethylenated alcohols comprise at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C8 to C 40 alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxy, preferably from 2 to 50 mol and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethyleneoxy and comprising one or two fatty chains;

[0136] - condensates of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy with fatty alcohols;

[0137] - polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethyleneoxy units, polyglycerolated fatty amides on average comprising from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups;

[0138] - ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan (or oxyethylenated sorbitan esters) preferably having from 2 to 40 ethyleneoxy units;

[0139] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0140] - polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters having from 2 to 150 mol of ethyleneoxy, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

[0141] - N-(C6-C 24 alkyl) glucamine derivatives;

[0142] - amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl) amine oxides or N-(C 10 -C 14 -acyl) aminopropyl morpholine oxides;

[0143] - non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type.

[0144] Non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type may be represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O) t -(G)v

[0145] Wherein:

[0146] -R1 represents a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group in which the straight-chain or branched alkyl group has 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0147] -R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0148] -G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0149] -t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4;

[0150] -v indicates a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4.

[0151] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant has the formula described above, wherein:

[0152] -R1 indicates a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0153] -R2 represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0154] -t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

[0155] -G indicates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,

[0156] -The degree of polymerization (i.e., the v value) can range from 1 to 15 and is preferably 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0157] The glucoside bond between sugar units is usually of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and is preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. 1,4C8 / C 16 Alkyl(poly)glucosides and in particular decyl glucoside and octanoyl / decanoyl glucoside are most particularly preferred.

[0158] The oxyethylenated sorbitan esters that can be used in the context of the present invention particularly include C8-C of sorbitan having 2 to 40 ethyleneoxy units 30 Monoesters and polyesters of fatty acids with oxyethylenated derivatives. Preferably, C of sorbitan having 4 to 20 ethyleneoxy units is used 12 -C 24 Monoesters and polyesters of fatty acids with oxyethylenated derivatives.

[0159] Such compounds are also known under the name polysorbates. They are sold in particular by Uniqema under the name Tween.

[0160] Mention may be made in particular of polyoxyethylated sorbitan monolaurate with 4 EO sold under the name TWEEN 21, polyoxyethylated sorbitan monolaurate with 20 EO sold under the name TWEEN 20, polyoxyethylated sorbitan monopalmitate with 20 EO sold under the name TWEEN 40, polyoxyethylated sorbitan monostearate with 20 EO sold under the name TWEEN 60, polyoxyethylated sorbitan monostearate with 4 EO sold under the name TWEEN 61, polyoxyethylated sorbitan tristearate with 20 EO sold under the name TWEEN 65, polyoxyethylated sorbitan monooleate with 20 EO sold under the name TWEEN 80, polyoxyethylated sorbitan monooleate with 5 EO sold under the name TWEEN 81, polyoxyethylated sorbitan trioleate with 20 EO sold under the name TWEEN 85.

[0161] In this document, and in a manner well known per se, "compound with X EO" denotes a polyoxyethylated compound containing X oxyethylene units per molecule.

[0162] Preferably, the fatty acid of the polyoxyethylated sorbitan ester is a saturated fatty acid, especially a C 12 -C 24 saturated fatty acid.

[0163] Preferred sorbitan esters are polyoxyethylated derivatives of C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoesters of sorbitan having from 4 to 20 ethyleneoxy units, more preferably polyoxyethylated sorbitan monolaurate with 4 EO, polyoxyethylated sorbitan monolaurate with 20 EO, polyoxyethylated sorbitan monostearate with 20 EO and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected, alone or as a mixture, from (C6-C 24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C 18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides; and polyoxyethylated sorbitan esters, especially those derived from C 12 -C 24Those that are saturated fatty acids and contain 4 to 20 ethyleneoxy units.

[0165] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant can be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in a range from 0.05% to 8% by weight, particularly in a range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even better in a range from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] Additional silicone

[0167] The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more additional silicones, which can in particular be selected from amino silicones, non - amino silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0168] The additional silicone is different from the amino silicone of formula (I) as defined above.

[0169] This means that the said additional silicone does not fall within the definition of formula (I), for example because they do not have the amine value and / or molecular mass as defined for the silicone of formula (I), and / or because the definition of at least one of their groups R, R' and / or A is different from those indicated for the silicone of formula (I), or alternatively because they have a chemical structure different from that of the silicone of formula (I).

[0170] The composition according to the invention can thus comprise one or more non - amino silicones, which can be solid or liquid (at 25 °C, 1 atm) and can be volatile or non - volatile. Preferably, the non - amino silicones are selected from non - volatile liquid silicones.

[0171] The non - amino silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0172] Silicones are described in particular detail in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" by Walter Noll (1968), Academic Press.

[0173] Volatile silicones can be selected from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C (at atmospheric pressure, 1 atm), and in particular from:

[0174] i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as

[0175] - Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione 70045V 2 by Rhodia, under the name Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione 70045V 5 by Rhodia can be mentioned;

[0176] - Cyclic copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the following chemical structure:

[0177]

[0178] Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide can be mentioned.

[0179] - Mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds derived from silicon, such as mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and pentaerythritol tetrakis(trimethylsilyl ether) (50 / 50) and mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1,1'-oxybis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexamethyltrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0180] ii) Linear polydialkylsiloxanes having from 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 °C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0181] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article "Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics" by Todd & Byers published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Volume 91, January 76, pages 27 - 32; products sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone can be mentioned.

[0182] Among non-volatile silicones, either alone or as a mixture, mention may be made of polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organically modified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organically modified silicones), which are polysiloxanes containing one or more non-amino organic functional groups in their structure, usually attached via hydrocarbon-based groups and preferably selected from aryl, alkoxy and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups.

[0183] Organically modified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes (especially polydiphenylsiloxane) and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organic functional groups mentioned previously. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0184] Among organically modified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes which contain:

[0185] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups, which may optionally include C6-C 24 alkyl groups, such as polydimethylsiloxane copolyols and especially those sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils from Union Carbide L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711; or alternatively (C 12 ) alkyl polymethylsiloxane copolyols and especially those sold by Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;

[0186] - thiol groups, such as the products sold by Genesee under the names GP 72A and GP 71;

[0187] - alkoxylated groups, such as the products sold by SWS Silicones under the name polysiloxane copolymer F-755 and Abil sold by Goldschmidt 2428, 2434 and 2440;

[0188] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl functional groups;

[0189] - acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

[0190] - Anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, such as those described in, for example, EP 186 507, or anionic groups of the alkylcarboxylic acid type, such as product X-22-3701E from Shin-Etsu; or alternatively anionic groups of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as those sold by Goldschmidt under the names S201 and S255.

[0191] The silicone can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxane with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: Polydimethylsiloxane). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned:

[0192] - Oils of series 47 and 70 047 sold by Rhodia, or oils, such as oil 70047V 500 000;

[0193] - Oils of the series sold by Rhodia;

[0194] - Oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 / s;

[0195] - Oils from Momentive Performance Materials, and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from Momentive Performance Materials.

[0196] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxane with dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: Polydimethylsiloxanol), such as oils of series 48 from Rhodia.

[0197] Among the polydialkylsiloxanes of this category, mention may also be made of products sold by Goldschmidt under the names Abil 9800 and 9801, which are polydi(C1-C 20 )alkylsiloxanes.

[0198] More particularly, the products that can be used according to the present invention are mixtures, such as:

[0199] - A mixture formed from polydimethylsiloxane or polydimethylsiloxanol (CTFA) with a chain terminated with a hydroxyl group and cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (CTFA), such as product Q2-1401 sold by Dow Corning.

[0200] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are in particular selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes having a viscosity in the range of from 1×10 -5 to 5×10 -2 m 2 / s at 25°C.

[0201] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of products sold under the following names:

[0202] - oils from the 70 641 series from Rhodia; oils;

[0203] - oils from the 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0204] - the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0205] - silicones from the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0206] - silicones from the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;

[0207] - certain oils from the SF series from Momentive Performance Materials, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF1265.

[0208] More particularly preferred non-amino silicones according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: polydimethylsiloxane).

[0209] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional amino silicones in addition to the amino silicones of formula (I) as defined above.

[0210] The term "amino silicone" denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or quaternary ammonium group.

[0211] The amino silicones that can be used according to the invention can be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity in the range of from 5×10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1×10 -5 to 1 m 2 / s. Preferably, the additional amino silicones are selected from non-volatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).

[0212] Preferably, the aminosilicone is selected, individually or as a mixture, from the following compounds:

[0213] A) Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (Ia):

[0214]

[0215] where x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is from 5000 to 500 000 g / mol;

[0216] B) Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (IIa):

[0217] R’ a G 3-a -Si(OSiG2) n -(OSiG b R’ 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a’ -R’ a’ (IIa)

[0218] wherein:

[0219] -G is the same or different and denotes a hydrogen atom or phenyl, OH, C1-C8 alkyl such as methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy such as methoxy;

[0220] -a and a' are the same or different and denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a and a' is equal to zero,

[0221] -b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0222] -m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0223] -R’ is the same or different and denotes a monovalent group of the formula -C q H 2q L where q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups: -NR”-Q-N(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N + (R”)3A - 、-N + H(R”)2A - 、-N + H2(R”)A - 、-NR”-Q-N + (R”)H2 A- , -NR”-Q-N + (R”)2H A - and -NR”-Q-N + (R”)3A - wherein R”s are the same or different and denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group such as C1-C 20 alkyl; Q denotes a straight-chain or branched-chain group of formula C r H 2r where r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A - represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide ion such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide ion.

[0224] Preferably, the aminosilicone of formula (IIa) can be selected from:

[0225] (i) the silicone “trimethylsilylamine-terminated polydimethylsiloxane” corresponding to formula (III):

[0226]

[0227] where m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, even better from 50 to 150; n can denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0228] (ii) the silicone of the following formula (IV):

[0229]

[0230] wherein:

[0231] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denotes a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denotes a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0232] - R1, R2 and R3 are the same or different and represent hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy, and at least one of the groups R1 to R3 denotes alkoxy.

[0233] Preferably, the alkoxy is methoxy.

[0234] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals 0.3:1.

[0235] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000 g / mol;

[0236] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):

[0237]

[0238] wherein:

[0239] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1,000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p indicates a number from 0 to 999, particularly from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q indicates a number from 1 to 1,000, particularly from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0240] - R1 and R2 are different and represent a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, and at least one of the groups R1 or R2 indicates an alkoxy group.

[0241] Preferably, the alkoxy group is a methoxy group.

[0242] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0243] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000 g / mol, more preferably from 5,000 to 100,000 g / mol, and particularly from 10,000 to 50,000 g / mol.

[0244] Commercial products containing silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may contain, in their composition, one or more other aminosilicones having a structure different from formula (IV) or (V). Products containing aminosilicones of structure (IV) are sold by Wacker under the name ADM 652. Products containing aminosilicones of structure (V) are sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR for sale. Another product containing aminosilicones having structure (XIV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADMLOG for sale.

[0245] When using these aminosilicones, a particularly advantageous embodiment involves using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion can contain one or more surfactants. The surfactant can have any nature, but is preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, particularly as the aminosilicone of formula (V), a microemulsion with an average particle size range of 5 nm to 60 nm (including the limiting values) and more particularly 10 nm to 50 nm (including the limiting values) is used. Thus, according to the present invention, the aminosilicone microemulsion of formula (V) sold by Wacker Chemie AG under the name Finish CT 96 or SLM can be used;

[0246] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI):

[0247]

[0248] wherein:

[0249] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 50 to 150, n represents a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and m represents a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; and

[0250] - A denotes a straight-chain or branched alkylene group having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably straight-chain.

[0251] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0252] Silicones corresponding to this formula are, for example, the Xiameter MEM 8299 emulsion from Dow Corning;

[0253] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0254]

[0255] wherein:

[0256] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 50 to 150, n may represent a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and m may represent a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; and

[0257] -A denotes a straight-chain or branched alkylene group having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

[0258] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0259] Silicones corresponding to this formula are, for example, the DC2-8566 amino fluid from Dow Corning.

[0260] C) Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0261]

[0262] wherein:

[0263] -R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C 18 alkyl or C2-C 18 alkenyl, such as methyl;

[0264] -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group bonded to Si via an SiC bond, in particular a C1-C 18 alkylene or divalent C1-C 18 such as C1-C8 alkyleneoxy;

[0265] -Q - is an anion, such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride ion, or an organic acid salt, in particular an acetate;

[0266] -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

[0267] and

[0268] -s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

[0269] D) Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):

[0270]

[0271] wherein:

[0272] -R7, which may be the same or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C 18 alkyl, C2-C 18 alkenyl or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl;

[0273] -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group bonded to Si via an SiC bond, in particular a C1-C 18 alkylene or divalent C1-C 18 for example C1-C8 alkyleneoxy;

[0274] -R8 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C 18 alkyl, C2-C 18 alkenyl or -R6-NHCOR7 group;

[0275] -X - is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride ion, or an organic acid salt, in particular an acetate; and

[0276] -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.

[0277] These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A-0 530 974; mention may be made in particular of the silicone having the following INCI name: Quaternium-80.

[0278] Silicones falling within this category are those sold by Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474.

[0279] E) Amino silicones of formula (X):

[0280]

[0281] wherein:

[0282] -R1, R2, R3 and R4 are the same or different and denote a C1-C4 alkyl or phenyl group,

[0283] -R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxy group,

[0284] -n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0285] -m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0286] - x is selected such that the amine value ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0287] F) (AB) n type of multi-block polyoxyalkyleneated amino silicone, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkyleneated block containing at least one amine group.

[0288] The silicone is preferably composed of repeating units having the following general formula:

[0289] [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-R-N(R”)-R’-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -R’-N(H)-R-] or alternatively

[0290] [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-R-N(R”)-R’-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -]

[0291] wherein:

[0292] -a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably in the range of 5 to 200 and more particularly in the range of 10 to 100;

[0293] -b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably in the range of 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0294] -x is an integer in the range of 1 to 10,000 and more particularly 10 to 5,000;

[0295] -R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0296] -R is the same or different and represents a straight-chain or branched divalent C2-C 12 hydrocarbon-based group which optionally contains one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R is the same or different and denotes an ethylene group, a straight-chain or branched propylene group, a straight-chain or branched butylene group or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; and

[0297] -R’ is the same or different and represents a straight-chain or branched divalent C2-C 12 hydrocarbon-based group which optionally contains one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’ is the same or different and denotes an ethylene group, a straight-chain or branched propylene group, a straight-chain or branched butylene group or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R’ denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0298] The siloxane block preferably accounts for 50 mol% to 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

[0299] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of the copolymer in a 30% solution of dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0300] The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000 g / mol.

[0301] Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold by Momentive under the names Silsoft A - 843 or Silsoft A+.

[0302] G) Amino - silicones of formula (XI) and (XII):

[0303]

[0304] where:

[0305] - R, R’ and R” are identical or different and denote a C1 - C4 alkyl or a hydroxyl group,

[0306] - A denotes a C3 alkylene; and

[0307] - m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000;

[0308]

[0309] where:

[0310] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0311] - R1 and R2 are identical or different, preferably identical, and denote a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0312] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0313] Preferably, A contains from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may in particular be made of the following divalent groups: - CH2CH2CH2 - and - CH2CH(CH3)CH2 -.

[0314] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independent saturated straight-chain alkyl groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 12 to 20 carbon atoms; specifically mention may be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; and preferably, R1 and R2 are the same or different and are selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).

[0315] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):

[0316] -x ranges from 10 to 2000 and particularly from 100 to 1000;

[0317] -y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0318] -A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms and particularly 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is selected from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0319] -R1 and R2 are independently saturated straight-chain alkyl groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particularly selected from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; preferably, R1 and R2 are the same or different and are selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).

[0320] The preferred silicone of formula (XII) is dihexadecylstearyl aminoterminated polydimethylsiloxane. Particular mention may be made of the aminosilicone sold by Momentive under the name Silsoft AX.

[0321] H) Polysiloxanes containing primary amine groups only at one chain end or on a side chain and particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

[0322]

[0323] H2NCH2CH2CH2-Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O] n -Si(CH3)2C4H9 (XV)

[0324]

[0325] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the aminosilicone is between 1000 and 55,000.

[0326] As examples of the aminosilicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold by Gelest under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 and by Shin-Etsu under the name KF-8015.

[0327] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0328] As examples of the aminosilicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold by Gelest under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12.

[0329] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 50 000.

[0330] As an example of the aminosilicone of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the aminopropylphenylpolymethylsiloxane sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 2-2078Fluid.

[0331] The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an aminosilicone corresponding to the following formula (XVIII):

[0332]

[0333] wherein:

[0334] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, more preferably between 25 and 100, even more preferably between 50 and 80;

[0335] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 10 and even more preferably between 1 and 5;

[0336] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0337] - R'' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 5 carbon atoms; and

[0338] - R''' are identical or different, preferably identical, and are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; the groups may optionally be substituted by one or more OH hydroxyl groups.

[0339] Preferably, R' is a straight-chain or branched, preferably branched divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- groups.

[0340] Preferably, R” is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 4 carbon atoms, especially the -CH2-CH2- group.

[0341] Preferably, R”’ are the same or different and are saturated straight-chain alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular, dodecyl, C13, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl can be mentioned; preferably, R”’ are the same or different and are selected from saturated straight-chain alkyl groups having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, especially C13, C14 or C15 groups (individually or as a mixture), and even better represents a mixture of C13, C14 and C15. Preferably, R”’ are the same.

[0342] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII), wherein:

[0343] -n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0344] -m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0345] -R”’ are the same and are saturated straight-chain alkyl groups containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0346] -R' is a divalent alkylene group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0347] -R” is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0348] Even better, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII), wherein:

[0349] -n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0350] -m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0351] -R”’ are the same and are saturated straight-chain alkyl groups containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0352] -R' is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- group, and

[0353] "-R” is a -(CH2)2- group.

[0354] The most particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is bis(C13-15 alkoxy)PG-aminoterminated polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name). In particular, mention may be made of the silicone sold by Dow under the name Dowsil 8500 conditioner.

[0355] Preferably, when present, the additional silicone(s) may be selected, independently or as a mixture, from non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0356] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain any additional silicone (0%).

[0357] When present, the composition according to the invention may contain additional silicone(s) in a total content, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably in the range from 0.02% to 1% by weight and preferably in the range from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight.

[0358] Nonsilicone fatty substances

[0359] The composition according to the invention may optionally contain one or more non-silicone fatty substances, which may be selected from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0360] The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance which does not contain any Si-O bonds.

[0361] The term "solid fatty substance" means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 28 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 30 °C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa).

[0362] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0363] Solid fatty substances may be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0364] "Fatty acid" means a long-chain carboxylic acid containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids which can be used in the present invention are particularly selected from myristic acid, cetanoic acid, stearoyl acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof. The fatty acids are different from the (poly)hydroxylated carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms described previously.

[0365] "Fatty alcohol" means a long-chain fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, and are straight-chain or branched-chain, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol has the structure R-OH, where R denotes a straight-chain alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, the alkyl group containing from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols which can be used are preferably selected from saturated and straight-chain or branched-chain, preferably straight-chain and saturated (monohydric) alcohols, which alcohols contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0366] The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be selected individually or as a mixture from:

[0367] - Myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0368] - Cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0369] - Stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

[0370] - Arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0371] - Behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0372] - Lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0373] - Cerotinyl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0374] - Montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0375] - Melissyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0376] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. More preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; even more preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0377] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C 26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C 26 fatty alcohols.

[0378] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of straight-chain or branched-chain saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and straight-chain or branched-chain saturated monohydric alcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acid can optionally be hydroxylated and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0379] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2-C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0380] Octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl nonanoate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof may be specifically mentioned.

[0381] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from C9-C 26 alkyl palmitates, especially myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate; C9-C 26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C 26 alkyl stearates, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0382] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0383] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound which is solid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, has a reversible solid / liquid state change, has a melting point greater than about 40 °C and up to 200 °C, and has an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of these wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, imparting a relatively opaque, turbid appearance to the composition containing them. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with the oil and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).

[0384] In particular, waxes suitable for the present invention may be selected from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0385] In particular, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fiber or sugar cane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, espartograss wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, petrolatum, lignite and ozocerite; polyethylene wax, waxes and wax copolymers obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also their esters.

[0386] Also mention may be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes such as Microwax HW.

[0387] Also mention may be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the index number Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0388] Also mention may be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having straight-chain or branched C8 to C 32 fatty chains.

[0389] Among these waxes, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular products manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial index number hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular products sold by Heterene under the name Hest

[0390] ​It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold by Sofim under the name Phytowax Castor and those sold.

[0391] Also usable waxes are C20 - C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (the alkyl containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), either alone or as a mixture. Such waxes are in particular sold by Koster Keunen under the names Kester Wax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K 82 and Kester Wax K 80 sold.

[0392] In the compositions of the present invention, it is also possible to use microcrystalline waxes; mention may in particular be made of carnauba microcrystalline waxes, such as the products sold by Micro Powders (USA) under the name MicroCare synthetic wax microcrystalline waxes, such as the products sold by Micro Powders (USA) under the name MicroEase products; microcrystalline waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold by Micro Powders (USA) under the names Micro Care and products; microcrystalline waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the products sold by Micro Powders (USA) under the name Micro Care products; polyethylene microcrystalline waxes, such as the products sold by Micro Powders (USA) under the names Micropoly and products; and polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline waxes, such as the products sold by Micro Powders (USA) under the names Microslip and 519 products.

[0393] The waxes are preferably selected from mineral waxes, such as paraffin wax, petrolatum, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes, such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fiber or sugar cane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, carnauba minor wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, espartograss wax or neroli wax, such as the neroli wax sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0394] Ceramides or ceramide analogs such as glycosphingolipids that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are known; according to the Dawning classification, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V can be mentioned in particular.

[0395] The ceramides or their analogs that can be used preferably correspond to the following formula:

[0396]

[0397] wherein:

[0398] -R1 represents a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acid, this group being optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group in the α-position or a hydroxyl group in the ω-position, the hydroxyl group being esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C 16 -C 30 fatty acid;

[0399] -R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl) n group, a (galactosyl) m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0400] -R3 represents a C 15 -C 26 hydrocarbon-based group that is saturated or unsaturated in the α-position, this group being optionally substituted by one or more C1-C 14 alkyl groups;

[0401] It should be understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycosphingolipids, R3 can also represent a C 15 -C 26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group of which is optionally esterified with a C 16 -C 30 α-hydroxy acid.

[0402] Preferably, ceramides are used in which R1 indicates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acid; R2 indicates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 indicates a -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.

[0403] Even more particularly preferred ceramides are compounds in which R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C 16 -C 22 fatty acid; R2 indicates a hydrogen atom and R3 indicates a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain C 15 group.

[0404] It is also possible to use the following compounds, in which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C 12 -C 22 fatty acid; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.

[0405] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoylsphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) cetamide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) propanediamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine is preferably used.

[0406] As liquid fatty substances that can be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils and mixtures thereof.

[0407] The liquid fatty substance has a melting point of less than or equal to 25 °C, preferably less than or equal to 20 °C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0408] It should be borne in mind that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 40 and more preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally particularly substituted by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0409] The liquid hydrocarbon may be a C6 to C 18Liquid hydrocarbons, which are straight-chain, branched-chain or optionally cyclic; they are preferably selected from C8-C 16 , especially C 10 -C 14 alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins (such as isocetane or isodecane), and mixtures thereof.

[0410] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be selected from those containing more than 16 carbon atoms of mineral or synthetic origin, which may be straight-chain or branched-chain; liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0411] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be selected from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois of France or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the names 810, 812 and 818), jojoba oil and shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0412] Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected from straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched-chain alcohols containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0413] Regarding the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides mentioned above, in particular, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain C1 to C 26 or branched-chain C3 to C 26 aliphatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids and saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain C1 to C 26 or branched-chain C3 to C 26 aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total carbon number of these esters being greater than or equal to 6, more preferably greater than or equal to 10.

[0414] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched-chain.

[0415] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0416] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0417] Still in the context of this variant, C4 to C 22 diesters or triesters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0418] Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythritol monocastor oil acid ester; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; propylene glycol didecanoate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; trilactin; trioctanoin; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0419] The composition may also comprise sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C 30 and preferably C 12 to C 22 fatty acids as fatty acid esters. It is to be understood that "sugar" means an oxygenated hydrocarbon-based compound having several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0420] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methyl glucose.

[0421] The sugar esters of fatty acids may in particular be selected from the group consisting of: the sugars described previously and esters or mixtures of esters of straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C 30 and preferably C 12 to C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0422] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyester and mixtures thereof.

[0423] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, in particular such as the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate.

[0424] More particularly, mono-esters and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleates, stearates, behenates, oleo-palmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleo-stearates of sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose and mixtures thereof.

[0425] By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold by the company Amerchol under the name DO, which is methyl glucose dioleate.

[0426] Preferably, liquid esters of monocarboxylic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.

[0427] Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substances are selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C 18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; even better selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters and mixtures thereof.

[0428] The composition according to the invention may comprise non-silicone fatty substances in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even better from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, even better from 3% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0429] The composition according to the invention may comprise a non-silicone fatty substance selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters and mixtures thereof in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 18% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 3% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0430] Associative polymer

[0431] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more associative polymers. Preferably, the associative polymer is non-ionic.

[0432] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means any compound resulting from the polycondensation polymerization or free radical polymerization of monomers (wherein at least one is not an alkylene oxide) and monofunctional compounds of the formula RX (where R denotes an optionally hydroxylated C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and X denotes a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group). In particular, all compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of alkylene oxides with fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, fatty amides or fatty amines are excluded.

[0433] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means an amphiphilic polymer capable of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules in an aqueous medium. In its chemical structure, it generally comprises at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.

[0434] The associative polymer according to the invention is a polymer comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the molecules of which are capable of associating with one another or with the molecules of other compounds in the formulation medium. Preferably, the fatty chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0435] A particular case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, i.e. polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic moieties or groups rendering them water-soluble and one or more hydrophobic regions or groups (comprising at least one fatty chain), which polymers interact with one another via these hydrophilic moieties or groups and hydrophobic regions or groups and assemble or interact with other molecules and assemble.

[0436] The term "hydrophobic group" means a group or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based chain (which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S), or a group containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When it refers to a hydrocarbon-based group, the hydrophobic group contains at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based hydrophobic group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or alternatively from a polyalkylated fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol polyether-100. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon-based polymer such as polybutadiene.

[0437] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aliphatic chain" means a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms and even better 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0438] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty" (such as fatty alcohol, fatty acid or fatty amide) means a compound containing at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain in its main chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms and even better 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0439] Among the anionic associative polymers, mention may be made in particular of:

[0440] -(A) those containing at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one aliphatic chain allyl ether unit; and more particularly the following:

[0441] whose hydrophilic unit is composed of an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, even more particularly a vinyl carboxylic acid and most particularly acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or a mixture thereof; and

[0442] whose aliphatic chain allyl ether unit corresponds to a monomer having the following formula (I'): CH2=C(R')-CH2OB n R

[0443] wherein R' indicates H or CH3, B indicates an ethyleneoxy group, n ranges from 0 to 100 and R indicates a hydrocarbon-based group selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl, containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' indicates H, n = 10 and R indicates a stearyl (C 18 ) group.

[0444] Among these anion - associating polymers, particular preference is given to polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by weight of C1 - C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ethers of the formula (I’) and 0% to 1% by weight of a cross - linker, which cross - linker is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene bisacrylamide.

[0445] Most particularly preferred are cross - linked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl ether (steareth - 10), in particular the product sold by BASF under the name Salcare SC80, which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a cross - linked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth - 10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10), having the INCI name steareth - 10 allyl ether / acrylate copolymer;

[0446] -(B) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C 10 -C 30 ) alkyl ester.

[0447] These polymers are preferably selected from those in which the hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to a monomer of the following formula (II):

[0448]

[0449] wherein R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, and its hydrophobic unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C 10 -C 30 ) alkyl ester corresponds to a monomer of the following formula (III):

[0450]

[0451] wherein R2 denotes H, CH3 or C2H5 and R3 denotes C 10 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 alkyl.

[0452] The (C 10 -C 30The alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0453] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a mixture of monomers will be used more particularly, these monomers including:

[0454] (i) (Meth)acrylic acid,

[0455] (ii) The esters of formula (III) described above, where R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denotes an alkyl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally

[0456] (iii) A crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

[0457] Among polymers of this type of anionic associative polymer, those more particularly preferably considered are those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4% to 40% by weight of acrylic C 10 -C 30 alkyl esters and 0% to 6% by weight of a crosslinkable polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those consisting of 98% to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1% to 4% by weight of acrylic C 10 -C 30 alkyl esters and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of a crosslinkable polymerizable monomer, as those previously described.

[0458] Products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21 (with the INCI name acrylate / acrylates C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) can be particularly mentioned, and even more preferably Pemulen TR1 and Carbopol 1382;

[0459] -(C) maleic anhydride / C 30 -C 38 α-olefin / maleic acid alkyl ester terpolymers, such as maleic anhydride / C 30 -C 38α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer, especially the product sold by Newphase Technologies under the name Performa V 1608 (INCI name: C30-38 olefin / isopropyl maleate / MA copolymer);

[0460] -(D) Acrylic acid terpolymer, which comprises

[0461] (a) 20% to 70% by weight of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid,

[0462] (b) 20% to 80% by weight of non-surfactant α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomers other than (a), and

[0463] (c) 0.5% to 60% by weight of nonionic monoethyl carbamate, which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant and a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.

[0464] Particularly mention may be made of the terpolymer of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated (40 EO) behenyl alcohol dimethyl (m-isopropenyl) benzyl isocyanate, particularly as a 25% aqueous dispersion, such as the product Viscophobe DB1000 sold by Amerchol (Dow Chemical), which has the INCI name Polyacrylate-3.

[0465] -(E) Copolymer, which includes in its monomers

[0466] (i) α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and

[0467] (ii) Esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, especially acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and fatty alcohols, especially C8-C32 oxyethylenated fatty alcohols, which particularly contain 2 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, especially 4 to 50, even 10 to 40 EO.

[0468] As monomers, particularly mention may be made of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate containing 10 to 40 EO, especially 18 to 30 EO.

[0469] Preferably, these compounds also contain esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and C1-C4 alcohols, especially C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates as monomers.

[0470] Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one (meth)acrylic acid C1-C4 alkyl ester monomer and at least one oxyethylenated (meth)acrylic acid C8-C 32 alkyl ester monomer.

[0471] By way of example, mention may be made of Aculyn 22 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is a terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate (INCI name: acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer), or also Aculyn 28 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is a terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate (INCI name: acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer), and also the Novethix L-10 polymer sold by Lubrizol;

[0472] -(F) Associative polymers which comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulphonate group in free or partially or fully neutralized form and which comprise at least one hydrophobic moiety.

[0473] Among polymers of this type, more particularly mention may be made of:

[0474] - Crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers which comprise from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid or salt) units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid (C8-C 16 ) alkyl ester units, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750 899;

[0475] - Terpolymers which comprise from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US 5089578;

[0476] - Fully neutralized copolymers of AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, and also non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide;

[0477] - Copolymers consisting of AMPS units and the following units: beheneth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex sold by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 methacrylate cross-polymer), or stearyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate units, such as those sold by Clariant HMB (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Stearyl methacrylate cross-polymer), or also stearyl alcohol polyether-8 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex from Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Stearyl methacrylate copolymer).

[0478] -(G) Associative polymers comprising at least one vinyl lactam monomer and at least one α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C1-C 20 alkyl esters (e.g. lauryl methacrylate), such as the product sold by ISP under the name LM (INCI name: VP / acrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer).

[0479] Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of:

[0480] -(A’) Cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the following general formula (Ia): R-X-(P) n -[L-(Y) m r -L’-(P’) p -X’-R’

[0481] wherein:

[0482] R and R’ are the same or different and represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

[0483] X and X’ are the same or different and represent a group comprising an amine functional group optionally bearing a hydrophobic group or an alternative group L”;

[0484] L, L’ and L” are the same or different and represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;

[0485] P and P’ are the same or different and represent a group comprising an amine functional group optionally bearing a hydrophobic group;

[0486] Y represents a hydrophilic group;

[0487] r is an integer between 1 and 100 (inclusive of the end values), preferably between 1 and 50 (inclusive of the end values) and especially between 1 and 25 (inclusive of the end values);

[0488] ​n, m, and p are each independently between 0 and 1000 (inclusive).

[0489] The molecule contains at least one protonated or quaternized amine functional group and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0490] Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends.

[0491] A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) described above, where:

[0492] Both R and R’ independently represent hydrophobic groups,

[0493] X and X’ each represent the group L”,

[0494] n and p are integers between 1 and 1000 (inclusive), and

[0495] L, L’, L”, P, P’, Y, and m have the meanings given above.

[0496] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above, where:

[0497] n = p = 0 (the polymer does not contain any units incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation that are derived from monomers containing amine functional groups),

[0498] The protonated amine functional group is produced by hydrolysis of the excess isocyanate functional groups at the chain ends, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functional groups formed with an alkylating agent containing a hydrophobic group, which is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, where R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide ion or sulfate group, etc.

[0499] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above, where:

[0500] Both R and R’ independently represent hydrophobic groups,

[0501] Both X and X’ independently represent groups containing quaternary amines,

[0502] n = p = 0, and

[0503] L, L’, Y, and m have the meanings indicated above.

[0504] The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethane is preferably between 400 and 500,000 (inclusive), particularly between 1000 and 400,000 (inclusive) and ideally between 1000 and 300,000 (inclusive).

[0505] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.

[0506] For example, the hydrophobic group can be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecanol or decanol. It can also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, such as polybutadiene.

[0507] When X and / or X' denote a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' can represent one of the following formulas:

[0508]

[0509] wherein:

[0510] R2 represents a straight-chain or branched alkylene group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene group, one or more of the carbon atoms being optionally replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P;

[0511] R1 and R3 are the same or different and denote a straight-chain or branched C1-C 30 alkyl or alkenyl or aryl group, at least one of the carbon atoms being optionally replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P;

[0512] A - is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide ion, for example chloride or bromide ion, or methanesulfonate.

[0513] The groups L, L’ and L” represent groups of the following formula:

[0514] wherein:

[0515] Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and

[0516] R4 represents a straight-chain or branched alkylene group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene group, one or more of the carbon atoms being optionally replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P.

[0517] The groups P and P’ containing an amine functional group can represent at least one of the following formulas:

[0518]

[0519] wherein:

[0520] R5 and R7 have the same meaning as R2 defined above;

[0521] R6, R8 and R9 have the same meaning as R1 and R3 defined above;

[0522] R 10 represents a straight-chain or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P;

[0523] and A - is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide ion, for example a chloride or bromide ion, or mesylate.

[0524] With regard to the meaning of Y, the term "hydrophilic group" means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

[0525] By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

[0526] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides or mixtures of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferably a polyether and in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0527] The cationic associative polyurethane of formula (Ia) according to the invention is formed from a diisocyanate and various compounds bearing a functional group containing a labile hydrogen. The functional group containing a labile hydrogen may be an alcohol, a primary or secondary amine or a thiol functional group which, after reaction with the diisocyanate functional group, gives respectively a polyurethane, a polyurea and a polythiourea. In the present invention, the term "polyurethane" encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethane itself, polyurea and polythiourea and also their copolymers.

[0528] The first type of compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound comprising at least one unit bearing an amine functional group. The compound may be polyfunctional, but the compound is preferably difunctional, that is to say, according to a preferred embodiment, the compound comprises, for example, two labile hydrogen atoms carried by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol functional group. A mixture of polyfunctional and difunctional compounds may also be used, in which the percentage of polyfunctional compounds is low.

[0529] As mentioned above, the compound may comprise more than one unit containing an amine functional group. In that case, it is a polymer bearing repeating units containing an amine functional group.

[0530] This type of compound may be represented by one of the following formulas:

[0531] HZ-(P) n -ZH or HZ-(P’) p -ZH, where Z, P, P’, n and p are as defined above.

[0532] Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine, and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0533] The second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the following formula: O═C═N—R4—N═C═O, where R4 is as defined above.

[0534] By way of example, mention may be made of methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, methylene cyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate, and hexane diisocyanate.

[0535] The third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the hydrophobic end groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

[0536] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a functional group containing a labile hydrogen, such as a hydroxyl group, a primary or secondary amine, or a thiol functional group.

[0537] By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecanol, or decanol. When the compound includes a polymer chain, it may be, for example, α-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0538] The hydrophobic groups of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) can also be generated by the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amines of a compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic groups are introduced via a quaternizing agent. The quaternizing agent is a compound of the RQ or R'Q type, where R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group, such as a halide ion, sulfate, etc.

[0539] The cationic associative polyurethane may also contain a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound included in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be polyfunctional. It is preferably difunctional. Mixtures with a relatively low percentage of the polyfunctional compound are also possible.

[0540] The functional group containing a labile hydrogen is an alcohol, a primary or secondary amine, or a thiol functional group. The compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functional groups containing a labile hydrogen.

[0541] By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, and propylene glycol.

[0542] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, and sulfonated polyamides, or mixtures of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferably a polyether and particularly poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0543] The hydrophilic functional group called Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Specifically, units containing a quaternary amine or protonated amine functional group may be sufficient to provide the solubility or water dispersibility required for this type of polymer in aqueous solution.

[0544] Although the presence of the hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes containing such a group are preferred.

[0545] -(B’) quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular:

[0546] -i) quaternized cellulose modified with a group containing at least one aliphatic chain, such groups as straight-chain or branched alkyl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, straight-chain or branched aralkyl groups, or straight-chain or branched alkaryl groups, or mixtures thereof;

[0547] -ii) quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one aliphatic chain, such groups as straight-chain or branched alkyl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, straight-chain or branched aralkyl groups, or straight-chain or branched alkaryl groups, or mixtures thereof;

[0548] -iii) hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (Ib):

[0549]

[0550] wherein:

[0551] -R and R’ are the same or different and represent ammonium groups such as -R a R b R c N + Q - , where R a 、R b and R c are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C 30 、preferably C1-C 20 alkyl group, such as a methyl or dodecyl group; and Q - represents an anion counterion, such as a halide ion, for example a chloride or bromide ion; and

[0552] n, x and y are the same or different and represent integers between 1 and 10,000.

[0553] The alkyl groups carried by the above quaternized cellulose i) or hydroxyethyl cellulose ii) preferably contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl preferably denotes phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthracyl.

[0554] As having C8 to C 30Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl celluloses of fatty chains may also be mentioned products Quatrisoft LM sold by Amerchol Corporation / Dow Chemical Company (INCI name: Polyquaternium-24) and product Crodacel sold by Croda (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride), Crodacel (C 12 alkyl)(INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryl Dimonium Chloride) and Crodacel (C 18 alkyl)(INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyl Dimonium Chloride).

[0555] Also mentionable is hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (Ib), where R represents trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide; more preferably, R represents trimethylammonium chloride -(CH3)3N + Cl - and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride -(CH3)2(C 12 H 25 )N + Cl - . This type of polymer is known under the trade name Softcat Polymer from Amerchol Corporation / Dow Chemical Company such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, having the INCI name Polyquaternium-67.

[0556] More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs (including the end values). Preferably, the viscosity is between 2700 and 2800 cPs (including the end values). Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

[0557] -(C’) cationic polyvinyl lactams, especially those comprising:

[0558] -a) at least one monomer of the vinyl lactam or alkyl vinyl lactam type;

[0559] -b) at least one monomer having the following structure (Ic) or (IIc):

[0560]

[0561] Wherein:

[0562] X represents an oxygen atom or an NR6 group,

[0563] R1 and R6 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C5 alkyl group,

[0564] R2 represents a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 alkyl group,

[0565] - R3, R4, and R5 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a straight-chain or branched C1-C 30 alkyl group or a group of formula (IIIc): -(Y2) r -(CH2-CH(R7)-O) x -R8 (IIIc)

[0566] Wherein:

[0567] Y, Y1, and Y2 each independently represent a straight-chain or branched C2-C 16 alkylene group,

[0568] R7 represents a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 alkyl group or a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group,

[0569] R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C 30 alkyl group,

[0570] p, q, and r each independently represent a value of zero or a value of 1,

[0571] m and n each independently represent an integer in the range of 0 to 100 (including the end values),

[0572] x represents an integer in the range of 1 to 100 (including the end values),

[0573] Z represents an anion counterion of an organic acid or an inorganic acid, such as a halide ion, for example, a chloride ion or a bromide ion, or a mesylate;

[0574] Provided that:

[0575] - At least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5, or R8 represents a straight-chain or branched C9-C 30 alkyl group,

[0576] - If m or n is not zero, then q is equal to 1,

[0577] - If m or n is equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

[0578] The cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymer according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and can also be a block polymer.

[0579] Preferably, the counterion Z of the monomer of formula (Ic) - is selected from halide ions, phosphate ions, methyl sulfate ions and tosylate ions.

[0580] Preferably, R3, R4 and R5 each independently denote a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C 30 alkyl group.

[0581] More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic), wherein preferably m and n are equal to 0.

[0582] The vinyl lactam or alkyl vinyl lactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):

[0583]

[0584] where s denotes an integer in the range from 3 to 6; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, and R 10 denotes a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, provided that at least one of the groups R9 and R 10 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0585] Even more preferably, monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0586] The cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymer according to the invention can also comprise one or more further monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic monomers.

[0587] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of the following terpolymers which comprise at least:

[0588] a) a monomer of formula (IVc),

[0589] b) a monomer of formula (Ic) wherein p = 1, q = 0, R3 and R4 each independently denote a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl group, and R5 denotes a straight-chain or branched C9-C 24 alkyl group, and

[0590] c) a monomer of formula (IIc) wherein R3 and R4 each independently denote a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C5 alkyl group.

[0591] Even more preferably, a terpolymer will be used which comprises, by weight:

[0592] 40% to 95% of monomer (a),

[0593] from 0.1% to 55% of monomer (c), and

[0594] from 0.25% to 50% of monomer (b).

[0595] Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0596] As cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the invention, there are used in particular:

[0597] - a terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / ammonium lauryldimethylammonium propyltoluene sulfonate,

[0598] - a terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / ammonium cocoyl dimethylammonium propyltoluene sulfonate,

[0599] - a terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / ammonium lauryldimethylammonium propyl chloride or ammonium chloride.

[0600] The terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / ammonium lauryldimethylammonium propyl chloride is sold in particular by ISP under the names Styleze and Styleze (INCI name: polyquaternium-55).

[0601] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20 000 000, more particularly between 200 000 and 2 000 000 and preferably between 400 000 and 800 000.

[0602] -(D’) cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO 2004 / 024779.

[0603] Among these polymers, mention will be made more particularly of the products from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:

[0604] - di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl) esters of methacrylic acid,

[0605] - one or more C1-C 30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,

[0606] -Polyethoxylated methacrylic acid C 10 -C 30 Alkyl ester (20-25 mol of ethyleneoxy units),

[0607] -30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether,

[0608] - hydroxy(C2-C6alkyl)methacrylate, and

[0609] -Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0610] Such polymers are marketed, for example, by Lubrizol under the name Carbopol Aqua A compound sold and corresponding to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

[0611] The nonionic associative polymers, alone or as a mixture, are preferably selected from:

[0612] (1) using at least one fatty chain, especially C8-C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Alkyl group-modified cellulose; preferably selected from:

[0613] - comprising at least one fatty chain, especially C8-C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28 Hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with alkyl groups, such as alkyl, aralkyl or alkaryl, or a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyl group is preferably C8-C 22 , such as those sold by Ashland, in particular under the reference number Natrosol Plus Grade 330CS (C 16 Cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose sold by alkyl) or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by Ashland,

[0614] - hydroxyethylcellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amercell,

[0615] - and mixtures thereof.

[0616] (2) using at least one fatty chain, especially C8-C 32 And also better C 14 -C 28Alkyl group-modified hydroxypropyl guar gums, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C 22 alkyl chain) sold by Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C 14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C 20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia.

[0617] (3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and aliphatic chain hydrophobic monomers, especially C8-C 32 and also preferably C 14 -C 28 alkyl. Examples that can be mentioned include:

[0618] -Vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer, and especially the product Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 sold by ISP;

[0619] -Vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer, and especially the product Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 sold by ISP.

[0620] (4) Copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl esters of methacrylic acid or acrylic acid and amphiphilic monomers including at least one aliphatic chain, especially C8-C 32 and also preferably C 14 -C 28 alkyl, such as the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208.

[0621] (5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers including at least one aliphatic chain, especially C8-C 32 and also preferably C 14 -C 28 alkyl, such as the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0622] (6) Polyurethane polyethers that include both hydrophilic blocks (usually having a polyoxyethylenated nature) and hydrophobic blocks (which can be separate aliphatic sequences and / or alicyclic and / or aromatic sequences) on their chains.

[0623] (7) Polymers containing an aminoplast ether backbone with at least one aliphatic chain, especially C8-C 32 and also preferably C 14 -C 28 alkyl, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by Süd-Chemie.

[0624] Preferably, the polyurethane polyether comprises at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by hydrophilic blocks, which hydrocarbon-based chains may be side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic blocks. In particular, one or more side chains may be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise hydrocarbon-based chains at one or both ends of the hydrophilic block.

[0625] The polyurethane polyether may be multi-block, in particular in the form of triblocks. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed at the ends and in the chain (e.g., a multi-block copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.

[0626] The aliphatic chain nonionic polyurethane polyether may be a triblock copolymer, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. These nonionic polyurethane polyethers contain urethane bonds between these hydrophilic blocks, whence the name.

[0627] By extension, the aliphatic chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers also include those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0628] As an example of an aliphatic chain nonionic polyurethane polyether that can be used in the present invention, Rheolate containing urethane functional groups sold by Rheox can also be used or 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM Products Elfacos from Akzo containing C12-C14 alkyl chains can also be mentioned and products Elfacos containing C18 alkyl chains Products DW from Rohm and Haas containing C20 alkyl chains and containing urethane bonds, provided at a solids content of 20% in water, can also be used

[0629] These polymers can also be used especially in solutions or dispersions in water or in aqueous / alcohol media. As examples of such polymers, those sold by Rheox can be mentioned 255, 278 and 244. Products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by Rohm and Haas can also be used.

[0630] The polyurethane polyethers that can be used according to the present invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. [Colloid Polymer Science] 271, 380.389 (1993).

[0631] Even more particularly, preference is given to considering the use of polyurethane polyethers obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising

[0632] (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 mol of ethyloxy groups, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decanol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0633] Such polyether polyurethanes are in particular those sold by Rohm and Haas under the name Aculyn and Aculyn [Aculyn is a condensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 mol of ethyloxy groups, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4 - cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn is a condensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 mol of ethyloxy groups, decanol and methylene bis(4 - cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0634] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non - ionic associative polymers, which are preferably selected from polyurethane polyethers and / or from celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one, in particular C8 - C 32 and even better C 14 -C 28 alkyl fatty chains.

[0635] Preferably, the associative polymer can be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0636] Preferably, the non - ionic associative polymer can be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0637] Polyol

[0638] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polyols.

[0639] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon-based chain, which hydrocarbon-based chain is optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bears at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH), preferably carried by different carbon atoms, and the compound may be cyclic or acyclic, straight-chain or branched-chain, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0640] More particularly, the polyol contains from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups. They preferably contain from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0641] Advantageously, the polyol is selected from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butanediol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butanediol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even more preferably selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0642] Preferably, the polyol may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 45% by weight, more preferably in the range from 0.1% to 12% by weight, even more preferably in the range from 0.2% to 6% by weight and preferably in the range from 0.3% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0643] Thickener

[0644] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more thickeners, particularly aqueous-phase thickeners (or hydrophilic thickeners).

[0645] The term "thickener" or "aqueous-phase thickener" means a compound that increases the viscosity of the aqueous phase into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight by at least 20 cPs (20 mPa·s), preferably by at least 50 cPs (50 mPa·s), the viscosity being measured at a shear rate of 1 s -1 at 25 °C and 1 atm (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer, etc.).

[0646] The thickener is different from the surfactants, polymers, silicones, fatty substances and polyols described above. In particular, the thickener is different from the above-mentioned associative polymers.

[0647] The thickener may advantageously be selected from non - associative thickening polymers with sugar units, non - associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the thickener may advantageously be selected from anionic, non - ionic or amphoteric non - associative thickening polymers with sugar units; anionic, non - ionic or amphoteric non - associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof.

[0648] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means an oxygen - containing hydrocarbon - based compound having several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and including at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0649] The sugar unit may optionally be modified by substitution and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0650] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the aqueous - phase thickening polymer of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, galactose anhydride, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, galactose anhydride sulfate, and fructose.

[0651] As non - associative thickening polymers with sugar units, natural gums may be particularly mentioned, such as:

[0652] a) Exudates from trees or shrubs, such as:

[0653] - Gum arabic (a branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid);

[0654] - Tragacanth gum (a polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose, and glucuronic acid);

[0655] - Karaya gum (a polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid);

[0656] - Gum tragacanth (a polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose, and arabinose);

[0657] b) Gums derived from algae, such as:

[0658] - Agar (a polymer derived from galactose and galactose anhydride);

[0659] - Alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and polymers of glucuronic acid);

[0660] - Carrageenan and furcellaran (polymers of galactose sulfate and polymers of galactose anhydride sulfate);

[0661] c) Gums derived from seeds or tubers, such as:

[0662] - Guar gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0663] - Locust bean gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0664] - Fenugreek gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0665] - Tamarind gum (a polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

[0666] - Konjac gum (a polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0667] d) Microbial gums, such as:

[0668] - Xanthan gum (a polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvate and glucuronic acid);

[0669] - Gellan gum (a partially acylated polymer of glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0670] - Scleroglucan gum (a glucose polymer);

[0671] e) Plant extracts, such as:

[0672] - Cellulose (a glucose polymer);

[0673] - Starch (a glucose polymer), and

[0674] - Inulin.

[0675] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified.

[0676] As a physical treatment, temperature can be mentioned.

[0677] As a chemical treatment, esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions can be mentioned. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that can be in particular non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0678] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch and cellulose.

[0679] The non-ionic guar gum that can be used according to the invention can be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl.

[0680] Among C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl, for example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl can be mentioned.

[0681] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkylene oxide such as propylene oxide with guar gum in order to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl.

[0682] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0683] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyls are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120.

[0684] The plant sources of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention can be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starch is selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0685] The starch can be chemically or physically modified in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0686] It is preferred to use distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphates, such as products sold by Avebe under the index numbers Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl tapioca distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized tapioca distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated tapioca distarch phosphate), or Structure Zea (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate) from National Starch.

[0687] According to the present invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, which contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic groups and the cationic groups can be bound to the same reaction site or different reaction sites of the starch molecule; they are preferably bound to the same reaction site. The anionic groups can be of the carboxylate, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably of the carboxylate type. The cationic groups can be of the primary amine, secondary amine, tertiary amine or quaternary amine type.

[0688] The starch molecule can be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular such as corn, potato, oats, rice, cassava, sorghum, barley or wheat. Hydrolysis products of the above-mentioned starches can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0689] The non-associative thickening polymer of the present invention can be a cellulose-based polymer, the structure of which does not contain C 10 -C 30 fatty chains.

[0690] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose" polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked via β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted cellulose, cellulose derivatives other than the polymers described above may be anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0691] Thus, cellulose-based polymers that can be used according to the present invention can be selected from unsubstituted cellulose (including those in microcrystalline form), and cellulose ethers.

[0692] Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters are distinguished.

[0693] Among cellulose esters are inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrate, cellulose sulfate, cellulose phosphate, etc.), organic esters of cellulose (e.g., cellulose monoacetate, cellulose triacetate, cellulose 3-(aminopropionate), cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate propionate or cellulose acetate trimellitate), and mixed organic / inorganic esters of cellulose such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfate and cellulose acetate propionate sulfate. Among cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalate and ethyl cellulose sulfate can be mentioned.

[0694] Among non-ionic cellulose ethers without C 10 -C 30 aliphatic chains, i.e., "non-associating" cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (C1-C4) alkyl celluloses such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g., Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkyl celluloses such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g., Natrosol 250HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkyl(C1-C4) alkyl celluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (e.g., Bermocoll E 481FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose.

[0695] Among anionic cellulose ethers without aliphatic chains, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C1-C4) alkyl celluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethyl methylcellulose (e.g., Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose and its sodium salt.

[0696] Among the non - associative thickening polymers without sugar units that can be used according to the present invention, alone or as a mixture, mention may be made of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, homopolymers of 2 - acrylamido - 2 - methylpropanesulfonic acid and their acrylamide copolymers, and these polymers may be cross - linked or non - cross - linked.

[0697] The first family of non - associative thickening polymers suitable for use is represented by preferably cross - linked homopolymers of acrylic acid.

[0698] Among homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those cross - linked with allyl ethers of the sugar series, such as the products sold by Noveon under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 or the products sold by 3VSA under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.

[0699] The non - associative thickening polymer may also be a cross - linked (meth) acrylic acid copolymer, such as the polymer sold by Noveon under the name Aqua SF1.

[0700] The non - associative thickening polymer may also be selected from cross - linked homopolymers of 2 - acrylamido - 2 - methylpropanesulfonic acid and their cross - linked acrylamide copolymers.

[0701] Among the partially or fully neutralized cross - linked copolymers of 2 - acrylamido - 2 - methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, particular mention may be made of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document regarding these polymers.

[0702] Preferably, the thickener may be selected from polymers that do not contain sugar units, particularly from cross - linked or non - cross - linked non - associative thickening polymers with acrylic acid or methacrylic acid units; particularly from homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, preferably from cross - linked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, alone or as a mixture; even more preferably from cross - linked homopolymers of acrylic acid, particularly cross - linked by pentaerythritol allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether or allyl acrylate ether.

[0703] Preferably, the thickener may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02% to 4% by weight, still even more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0704] Other ingredients

[0705] The composition according to the invention advantageously contains water, which may be present in a proportion of from 65% to 98% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 97% by weight and preferably from 75% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0706] In addition, the composition according to the invention may also contain one or more water-miscible organic solvents other than the polyols described previously, in particular selected from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethanol and / or isopropanol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and / or phenethyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof. When they are present, the organic solvents generally represent from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the hair care composition.

[0707] The composition according to the invention may also optionally contain one or more additives commonly used in the art, in particular selected from cationic polymers other than the polymers described above, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, chelating agents, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, preservatives, dyes and fillers.

[0708] Needless to say, those skilled in the art will carefully select such additive or additives such that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition of the invention are not or are substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged additive. The amounts in which the above additives are present individually may generally be between 0% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0709] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises:

[0710] - one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably selected from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof; and / or

[0711] - one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic; and / or

[0712] - one or more polyols; and / or

[0713] - one or more thickeners.

[0714] Method

[0715] Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic hair treatment method, which comprises the step of applying the composition described previously to the hair.

[0716] This cosmetic hair treatment method is more particularly a hair care method, in particular a method for washing and / or conditioning the hair.

[0717] The composition according to the invention can be applied to wet hair or to dry hair, preferably to wet hair.

[0718] The application step may be followed by a residence time of the composition on the hair that may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

[0719] The application step according to the invention may be followed by a step of rinsing the composition, for example with water, after a possible residence time. Preferably, the application step is followed by a rinsing step.

[0720] The application step may be followed, after a possible leave-on time and / or an optional rinsing step, by a drying step, for example using a hairdryer. The hair may also be left to dry, in particular naturally.

[0721] The application step according to the invention may also be followed by a step of washing the hair, for example with a shampoo; this is the case in particular when the hair care composition according to the invention is used as a pre-shampoo.

[0722] The application step according to the invention may be preceded by a step for washing the hair, for example with a shampoo; this is particularly the case when the hair care composition according to the invention is used as a conditioner or a hair mask.

[0723] Method for determining amine value, weight-average molecular mass and viscosity

[0724] A / Amine value

[0725] The amine value (or amine content) can be determined as described hereinafter based on ASTM standards, such as "Determination of Amine content (tertiary amine) of Amino alkyl silanes and siloxane fluids".

[0726] The amine value can be determined by acid-base titration and is defined as the amount of perchloric acid (in milliequivalents or meq) required to neutralize 1 g of amine in a sample.

[0727] program:

[0728] - Weigh 10g of sample into a 500ml conical flask

[0729] - Add 50 ml of toluene, mix until the sample has dissolved, then add 125 ml of acetic acid

[0730] - While stirring, add 5 drops of crystal violet indicator (0.5% by weight / volume in acetic acid, i.e. 0.5 g of crystal violet in 100 ml of acetic acid);

[0731] Titrate with 0.1 N perchloric acid HClO4 (in acetic acid) until the green color disappears; note that the color change occurs in the following order: purple → blue → green → yellow

[0732] Therefore, this gives the amount of perchloric acid required to neutralize 10 g of the sample.

[0733] The amine number (AN) is calculated as follows:

[0734] Amine number (meq / g) = [(ml HClO4) x (N HClO4)] / weight of sample (g)

[0735] In the case of the present invention (where N = 0.1 N and sample weight = 10 g), this gives the following simplified equation: AN (meq / g) = [(ml HClO4) x 0.1] / 10 = (ml HClO4) / 100

[0736] B / Weight-average molecular mass (Mw)

[0737] The weight-average molecular mass can be determined by any known method, in particular by dynamic light scattering, gel permeation chromatography or NMR. It is usually expressed in daltons.

[0738] Preferably, the weight-average molecular mass of the aminosilicone of formula (I) is measured at room temperature by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) in terms of polystyrene equivalents. The column used is a μ polystyrene type cross-linked copolymer column. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 mL / min. Inject 200 μL of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF. The determination is carried out by refractometry and UV spectrometry.

[0739] Alternative methods can be used to determine the weight-average molecular mass of these aminosilicones:

[0740] 1. Determine the average general structure using nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy, and;

[0741] 2. Calculate the number-average molecular weight from the average general structure.

[0742] The average general structure can be obtained using nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy on a Bruker AVIII 600 spectrometer operating at a field strength of 14.1 T; 1 H resonates at 600 MHz. The sample can be placed in a 5 mm or 10 mm NMR tube and diluted to a final concentration of 0.05 M Cr(AcAc)3 with CDCl3 or 0.1 M Cr(AcAc)3 / CDCl3. The inverse gated decoupling pulse sequence can be used with a pulse width of 45 degrees ( 13C: Delay ≥ 5 s, AQ ≥ 1.65 s; 29 Si: Delay ≥ 10 s, AQ ≥ 1.42 s). 1 1H NMR spectra can be acquired using a standard pulse sequence with a 30-degree pulse width and a delay ≥ 12 s.

[0743] C / Dynamic viscosity

[0744] The dynamic viscosity can be determined according to the following method.

[0745] Measurement conditions: 25 °C ± 2 °C, 1 atm., relative humidity 50% ± 5%

[0746] Brookfield viscometer: This is a precision torque meter that operates at discrete rotational speeds. A torque measurement system consisting of a calibrated beryllium-copper spring connecting the drive mechanism to the rotating cone detects the impedance to rotation caused by the presence of a fluid sample between the cone and the stationary flat plate. The impedance to the rotation of the cone generates a torque proportional to the shear stress in the fluid.

[0747] Sample volume: 500 ml in a beaker.

[0748] Based on the viscosity range to be measured, the rotor used:

[0749] Rotor No. 1: For viscosities less than 950 mPa·s

[0750] Rotor No. 2: 950 - 3800 mPa·s

[0751] Rotor No. 3: 3800 - 4750 mPa·s

[0752] Rotor No. 4: 4750 - 9500 mPa·s

[0753] Viscosity measurement starts with Rotor No. 1; if the viscosity exceeds the range for that rotor, the next rotor will be tried, and so on, until an absolute viscosity measurement is obtained. The value obtained after the rotor has rotated for two minutes is taken as the viscosity value.

[0754] The following examples are used to illustrate the present invention, but are not restrictive in nature. Unless otherwise indicated, these amounts are given as weight percentages of the active material (% AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0755] In the following examples, the compound referred to as aminopolysiloxane according to the present invention is an aminosilicone corresponding to the following formula:

[0756]

[0757] where R = R' = R" = methyl and A = -CH2-CH2-CH2-, where m = 1,4 - 13, n = 400 - 600 and n / m = 45 - 300.

[0758] Its amine value (AN) is between 0.1 and 0.16 meq / g, and its weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 35,000 and 45,000.

[0759] Example 1

[0760] Composition A according to the invention and comparative composition A' are prepared from the following ingredients (% AM)

[0761] Table 1

[0762]

[0763] A hair composition that can be used as a hair conditioner is obtained; it should be noted that the composition according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to condition the hair, especially to give it a smooth feel and a coating.

[0764] The sensory properties provided by composition A according to the invention are compared with the sensory properties provided by comparative composition A', and the evaluation is carried out on wet and dry hair.

[0765] The evaluation is carried out on tresses sensitized by a bleaching treatment. The tresses are previously cleaned, rinsed and dried with a standard shampoo (DOP Camomille) at a ratio of 0.3 g / g of hair.

[0766] Then the shampoo is applied to the tresses at a ratio of 0.3 g / g of hair (Total Repair Elsève - L'Oréal Paris), and the tresses are massaged and lathered, then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate = 300 l / h, water temperature 35°C).

[0767] Care composition A or A' is applied to the washed and still wet tresses at a ratio of 0.45 g / g of hair; the composition is left to stand for 5 minutes, and then the tresses are rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate = 300 l / h, temperature 35°C). The evaluation is carried out on wet hair.

[0768] Then the tresses are dried using a hair dryer and the evaluation is carried out on dry hair.

[0769] The following criteria are evaluated:

[0770] - On wet hair: smooth feel and coating

[0771] - On dry hair: smooth feel.

[0772] The evaluation was carried out blindly by 6 evaluators, who gave scores ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (high performance) in increments of 0.5 according to the criteria being tested.

[0773] Evaluation of smoothness: The evaluator took a lock of hair at the root and passed it between the fingers along the entire length of the lock to the tip. The more uniform and less heterogeneous the hair was from root to tip, the fewer rough patches it had, the less drag it had on the fingers, and the better the smoothness.

[0774] Evaluation of coating: The evaluator took the lock of hair in the hand and slid it from the root to the tip. The more deposits that could be felt on the fibers, the better the coating.

[0775] The following results (average of scores) were obtained:

[0776] Table 2

[0777] A A’ Wet hair Smooth feeling 4.1±0.2 2.7±0.3 Coating 4.0±0 2.9±0.4 Dry hair Smooth feeling 4.1±0.2 3.3±0.4

[0778] It should be noted that compared to the hair treated with the comparative composition, the hair treated according to the treatment method of the present invention exhibits a significantly better level of cosmetic performance, particularly having improved smoothness characteristics both on wet hair and on dry hair, and also having more coating present. Thus, the hair strands look more uniform, without rough patches and are thus restored.

[0779] Example 2

[0780] Composition B according to the present invention and comparative composition B' were prepared from the following ingredients (% AM):

[0781] Table 3

[0782]

[0783]

[0784] A hair composition that can be used as a hair conditioner was obtained; it should be noted that the composition according to the present invention enables, in particular, conditioning of the hair, particularly imparting a smooth and soft feel from the root to the tip of the hair, and also a uniform coating.

[0785] According to the same protocol as in Example 1, the sensory performance provided by Composition B compared to Composition B' was evaluated on dry hair.

[0786] The following criteria were evaluated:

[0787] - On dry hair: smoothness

[0788] The evaluation was carried out blindly by 4 evaluators, who assigned scores ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (high performance) in increments of 0.5 according to the criteria being tested.

[0789] The following results (average of scores) were obtained:

[0790] Table 4

[0791] B B’ Dry hair Smooth feeling 4.0±0.5 2.3±0.6

[0792] It should be noted that compared to the hair treated with the comparative composition, the hair treated according to the method of the present invention exhibits a significantly better level of cosmetic performance, particularly having the characteristic of an improved smooth feel. The hair looks more uniform from the root to the tip and has a softer sensory effect.

[0793] Example 3

[0794] Composition C according to the present invention and comparative composition C' were prepared from the following ingredients (% AM):

[0795] Table 5

[0796]

[0797]

[0798] A hair composition was obtained which can be used as a hair conditioner to condition the hair.

[0799] The composition was tested on tresses of natural Caucasian hair that were 2.7 g and 27 cm in length.

[0800] First, the tresses were cleaned using a standard silicone-free shampoo (DOP Camomille) at a ratio of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo was massaged onto the tresses to form a lather, followed by a 15-second dwell time, and then a step of rinsing with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35 °C).

[0801] Second, the composition C or C' to be tested was applied to the wet hair at a ratio of 0.4 g / g of hair, followed by a 2-minute dwell time, and then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35 °C).

[0802] Finally, the tresses were dried in an oven at 60 °C for 30 minutes.

[0803] The application of the standard shampoo + composition C or C' + oven drying cycle was repeated 4 more times.

[0804] At the end of the 5th cycle, the deposition of silicone on the hair was quantified by X-ray fluorescence spectrometry by measuring the mass concentration of silicon element on the hair fibers.

[0805] Subtract the amount of silicon naturally present in the untreated hair from the measured value (i.e., silicon deposit = content measured on the treated hair - content measured on the untreated hair).

[0806] The following results were obtained:

[0807] Table 6

[0808] C C’ Silicon deposit on tress (μg / g) 385 223 Standard deviation 30 2

[0809] It should be noted that the treatment method according to the present invention enables the deposition of silicone on the hair, which is significantly greater than the silicone deposition obtained with the comparative compositions containing different aminosilicones.

[0810] Example 4

[0811] Composition D according to the present invention and comparative composition D' were prepared from the following ingredients (% AM):

[0812] Table 7

[0813]

[0814] A hair composition that can be used as a hair mask was obtained; it should be noted that the composition according to the present invention enables, in particular, a smooth feeling and a coating to be imparted to the hair.

[0815] The sensory properties provided by composition D according to the present invention on wet and dry hair were evaluated in comparison with the sensory properties provided by comparative composition D'.

[0816] The evaluation was carried out on tresses that had been sensitized by a bleaching treatment, previously cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP Camomille), rinsed and dried in a manner similar to Example 1.

[0817] Then the shampoo was applied to the tresses at a ratio of 0.3 g / g of hair (Total Repair Elsève - L'Oréal Paris), the tresses were massaged and lathered, and then the tresses were rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate = 300 l / h, water temperature 35°C).

[0818] Care composition D or D' was applied to the washed and still wet tresses at a ratio of 0.45 g / g of hair; the composition was left to dwell for 5 minutes, and then the tresses were rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate = 300 l / h, temperature 35°C). The evaluation was carried out on wet hair.

[0819] Then the tresses were dried using a hair dryer and the evaluation was carried out on dry hair.

[0820] The following criteria were evaluated:

[0821] - On wet hair: coating

[0822] - On dry hair: smoothness and coating.

[0823] The evaluation was carried out blindly by 6 evaluators, who gave scores ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (high performance) in increments of 0.5 according to the criteria being tested.

[0824] The following results (average of scores) were obtained:

[0825] Table 8

[0826] D D’ Wet hair Coating 4.0±0 3.5±0.3 Dry hair Smooth feeling 4.0±0 3.0±0.5 Coating 4.0±0 3.2±0.4

[0827] It should be noted that the hair treated by the treatment method according to the present invention exhibits a significantly better level of cosmetic performance, especially a greater cosmetic benefit in terms of repair, compared to the hair treated with the comparative composition. Wet hair has more coating. After drying, the hair is more treated, having an improved level of smoothness and hair with more coating.

[0828] Example 5

[0829] Composition E according to the present invention and comparative composition E' were prepared from the following ingredients (% AM):

[0830] Table 9

[0831]

[0832] A hair composition that can be used as a hair mask was obtained; it should be noted that the composition according to the present invention makes it possible in particular to impart smoothness and coating to the hair.

[0833] The sensory properties provided by composition E according to the present invention on wet and dry hair were evaluated in comparison with the sensory properties provided by comparative composition E'.

[0834] The following criteria were evaluated:

[0835] - On wet hair: smoothness

[0836] - On dry hair: coating.

[0837] The evaluation was carried out blindly by 4 evaluators, who gave scores ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (high performance) in increments of 0.5 according to the criteria being tested.

[0838] The following results (average) were obtained:

[0839] Table 10

[0840] E E’ Wet hair Smooth feeling 4.75±0.30 3.75±0.65 Dry hair Coating 4.5±0.25 3.7±0.4

[0841] It should be noted that the hair treated according to the treatment method of the present invention exhibits a better level of cosmetic properties in terms of smoothness and coating compared to the hair treated with the comparative composition.

Claims

1. A beauty hair care composition, comprising: - one or more cationic surfactants, and - one or more amino silicone compounds of formula (I): wherein: -R is the same or different and represents methyl, hydroxyl, or an alkoxy group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; -R’ represents methyl or hydroxyl; -A is a straight-chain or branched divalent alkylene group containing 3 or 4 carbon atoms; The amino silicone has an amine value in the range of 0.1 to 0.29 meq / g and a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 10,000 to 100,000.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, The amino silicone has the formula (I), wherein: -R is the same or different and represents methyl and / or hydroxyl; more preferably, the two groups R are the same and represent methyl or hydroxyl, even more preferably methyl; and / or -R' represents methyl; and / or -A is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group containing 3 or 4 carbon atoms; more preferably, a straight-chain group containing 3 carbon atoms (-CH2CH2CH2-).

3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The amino silicone of formula (I) has an amine value in the range of 0.1 to 0.25 meq / g, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 0.19 meq / g, even more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 0.16 meq / g.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The amino silicone of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) in the range of 20,000 to 70,000, more preferably 25,000 to 50,000, even more preferably 35,000 to 45,000.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The amino silicone has the formula (I), wherein m is between 1.4 and 13, more preferably between 1.4 and 9, even more preferably between 1.5 and 5; and the n / m ratio is between 45 and 330, more preferably between 100 and 300; and n is advantageously between 400 and 600.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amino silicone compounds of formula (I): wherein: -R- is the same as - and R', represents methyl, -A is a straight-chain or branched divalent alkylene group containing 3 or 4 carbon atoms; preferably a straight-chain divalent alkylene group containing 3 carbon atoms (-CH2CH2CH2-), The amino silicone has an amine value in the range of 0.1 to 0.19 meq / g and a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) in the range of 25,000 to 50,000; Preferably, m is between 1.4 and 13, the n / m ratio is between 45 and 300, and n can be between 400 and 600.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The amino silicone of formula (I) has a dynamic viscosity measured at 25°C and 1 atm in the range of 2 to 8 Pa·s (2000 - 8000 cps), more preferably 3 to 6 Pa·s (3000 - 6000 cps), even more preferably 3 to 5 Pa·s.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the amino silicone compound of formula (I) in a total content in the range of from 0.001% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.002% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The cationic surfactant is selected, individually or as a mixture, from the following compounds: - Compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): Wherein: X - is an anion selected especially from the group consisting of halide ions, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate; The groups R1 to R4 may be the same or different and represent a straight-chain or branched aliphatic group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, and at least one of the groups R1 to R4 indicates a straight-chain or branched aliphatic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic group may contain heteroatoms, especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogen; - Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): wherein R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of halide ions, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl sulfonate, or alkyl aryl sulfonate, wherein the alkyl and aryl groups preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively; - Quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, especially quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts of formula (IV): wherein R9 denotes an alkyl group comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 10 selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or the group (R 9a )(R 10a )(R 11a )N-(CH2)3, wherein R 9a , R 10a , R 11a , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 are the same or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of: halide ions, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate, and (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate, especially methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; - Quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, such as those of the following formula (V): wherein: R 15 selected from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl; R 16 selected from the group R 19 -C(O)-; the group R 20 , which is a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 22 hydrocarbon-based group; a hydrogen atom; R 18 selected from the group R 21 -C(O)-; the group R 22 , which is a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group; a hydrogen atom; R 17 , R 19 and R 21 The same or different, selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t are the same or different and are integers in the range from 2 to 6; y is an integer in the range from 1 to 10; x and z are the same or different and are integers in the range from 0 to 10; X - is a simple or complex organic or inorganic anion; Provided that the sum of x + y + z is from 1 to 15; when x is 0, then R 16 indicates R 20 ; and when z is 0, then R 18 indicates R 22 ; - Fatty amidoamines, and especially amidoamines of formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R’)2 wherein: -R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and especially a straight-chain or branched C5-C 29 and preferably C7-C 23 alkyl group, or a straight-chain or branched C5-C 29 and preferably C7-C 23 alkenyl group; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and even more preferably 3 carbon atoms; and - R’ are the same or different and represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; Preferably, the cationic surfactant is selected from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above and mixtures thereof; even more preferably those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above and mixtures thereof; even still more preferably selected from those of formula (II) above.

10. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein, The cationic surfactant is individually or as a mixture selected from salts of tetraalkylammonium such as chlorides, bromides or methyl sulfates, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, wherein the alkyl contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium salts; dipalmitylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salts, such as dipalmitylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl methyl sulfate ammonium; and mixtures thereof; Preferably selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl methyl sulfate ammonium and mixtures thereof.

11. A composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic surfactant in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, particularly from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, individually or as a mixture, preferably selected from (C6-C 24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C 18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides; and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, particularly those derived from C 12 -C 24 saturated fatty acids and containing from 4 to 20 ethyleneoxy units.

13. A composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional silicones other than the amino silicone of formula (I) according to one of claims 1 to 7, preferably selected from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof; particularly selected from non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, non-volatile liquid amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

14. A composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising: - one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably selected from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof; and / or - one or more associative polymers, preferably nonionic; and / or - one or more polyols; and / or - one or more thickeners.

15. A method for treating hair cosmetically, comprising the step of applying a composition according to one of the preceding claims to the hair; the application step may be followed by a rinsing step and / or a step of drying the hair.

Images