Composition for treating keratin materials

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for treating keratin materials, comprising: a) at least one active selected from the group consisting of peptides, extracts of Vitex agnus and mixtures thereof, b) at least two non-ionic surfactants, and c) at least one non-ionic polymer.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to compositions for treating keratin materials, and more particularly to skin care compositions. Background Art

[0002] Compositions in which cosmetic actives have been incorporated are typically used to apply the cosmetic actives to the skin. These compositions are usually in the form of creams, lotions or gels, which are spread onto the skin while massaging with the fingertips to promote the penetration of the composition, especially the penetration of the actives into the skin.

[0003] With the increasing demand for cosmetic functions, consumers are looking for highly effective skin care products. As is known in the art, peptides and plant extracts, such as Vitex agnus-castus extract, can improve the efficacy of cosmetics, including anti-aging, whitening, soothing and antioxidant effects. Therefore, it is desirable to include as high a quantity as possible of peptides and / or plant extracts, such as Vitex agnus-castus extract, in cosmetics, especially skin care products.

[0004] Currently, most actives, such as peptides and Vitex agnus-castus extract, are included in commercial formulations as raw materials in the form of solutions or lotions, and such commercial formulations typically also contain very high amounts, such as greater than 90% by weight of solvents, especially water and polyols, and relatively low amounts of at least one of surfactants, dispersants, preservatives and thickeners, such as a total of less than 10% by weight. For some commercial formulations, the amount of peptide or Vitex agnus-castus extract, relative to the total weight of the formulation, is typically about 1.5% by weight or less than 1% by weight, or even as low as about 0.01% by weight. In this way, when preparing cosmetics containing peptides and / or Vitex agnus-castus extract, especially cosmetics containing relatively high amounts of peptides and / or Vitex agnus-castus extract, a relatively high amount of the formulation as a raw material needs to be added to the cosmetics, which makes it difficult to achieve the desired stability, appearance and / or feel of the final product, and some formulations cannot even be fully emulsified during the preparation process, thereby failing to obtain the desired emulsified product.

[0005] Therefore, there is a need for a cosmetic, especially in the form of an O / W cream, which can contain peptides and / or Vitex agnus-castus extract, especially relatively high amounts of peptides and / or Vitex agnus-castus extract, and has sufficient emulsification and desired stability even within a wide range of storage or use temperatures over a long period of time, and can also provide a good feel to the consumer. Summary of the Invention

[0007] The inventors have found that such a need can be met by the composition according to the present invention.

[0008] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition preferably for treating keratin materials, comprising:

[0009] a) at least one active agent selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extracts and mixtures thereof,

[0010] b) at least two nonionic surfactants, and

[0011] c) at least one nonionic polymer.

[0012] The composition according to the invention provides ideal stability even over long periods and wide temperature ranges, and also provides a good feel for keratin materials.

[0013] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising:

[0014] a) applying the composition according to the first aspect to the keratin material and optionally

[0015] b) massaging the keratin material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.

[0016] According to a third aspect, the present invention provides a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active agent selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extracts and mixtures thereof, said combination consisting of, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of the following substances:

[0017] a) at least two nonionic surfactants, and

[0018] b) at least one nonionic polymer.

[0019] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following detailed description and examples. Detailed Description of the Invention

[0021] Hereinafter and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of numerical ranges are included within the range, particularly in the expressions “between... and...” and “from... to...”.

[0022] As used herein, the articles “a” and “an” when applied to any feature in the embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims refer to one or more. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is explicitly stated. Further, the expression “at least one” used in this specification is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0023] Throughout this application, the expression "comprising" shall be construed as covering all specifically recited features as well as any optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which there are no substantial features other than the specifically recited features or even no features other than the specifically recited features (such as "consisting essentially of" and "consisting of"). In the case of "consisting essentially of", any additional compositions, materials and / or components that substantially affect the basic and novel properties are excluded from such embodiments, but any compositions, materials and / or components that do not substantially affect the basic and novel properties may be included in such embodiments.

[0024] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values representing amounts of ingredients, etc. used in the specification and claims shall be understood to be modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximations and can vary depending on the desired properties to be obtained. The term "about" when indicating a value is intended to mean a range within ±5% of that value, such as ±3%, ±2%, ±1% and ±0.5% of that value.

[0025] The term "keratin material" as used herein refers to skin and lips. "Skin" includes all body skin, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratin material refers to skin.

[0026] Active Substance

[0027] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof.

[0028] Peptide

[0029] According to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one peptide. In some embodiments, the composition comprises a blend of peptides. Hereinafter, the term "blend of peptides" means a mixture of at least two peptides. Preferably, the peptides are selected from dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, pentapeptides, hexapeptides, octapeptides and their derivatives and mixtures. In some embodiments, one or more amino acids in each peptide are derivatives of natural amino acids.

[0030] In some embodiments, the peptides are selected from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, carnosine and their derivatives and mixtures.

[0031] According to the present invention, examples of peptides include, but are not limited to, D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives, including anserine and baleine; acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-2, acetyl tetrapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, acetyl tetrapeptide-7, acetyl tetrapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, acetyl octapeptide-3, or mixtures thereof.

[0032] According to the present invention, preferred peptides are those selected from acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, especially acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester. Examples of peptide sources include, but are not limited to, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester (ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER) obtained from SEDERMA (CRODA) under the name Idealift, acetyl tetrapeptide-9 (ACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-9) obtained from BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION under the name Dermican, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8) obtained from LIPOTEC under the name Argireline, and palmitoyl tripeptide-1(and)palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1(and)PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7) obtained from SEDERMA (CRODA) under the name Maxtrixyl 3000.

[0033] Advantageously, the peptide is present in an amount of 0.0001% to 0.15% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably 0.01% to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] Vitex agnus-castus Extract

[0035] A particularly preferred example of the Vitex agnus-castus extract is the Vitex agnus-castus extract sold by MIBELLE AG BIOCHEMISTRY under the name DENSORPHIN.

[0036] Advantageously, the Vitex agnus-castus extract is present in an amount of 0.0001% to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.0002% to 0.3% by weight, and more preferably 0.0003% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Non-ionic Surfactant

[0038] The composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-ionic surfactants.

[0039] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are selected from:

[0040] - monoglycerides and polyglycerides of one or more fatty acids or their ethoxylated derivatives;

[0041] - esters of polyols and one or more fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains;

[0042] - sorbitan esters of one or more C8-C 24 fatty acids and their polyoxyethylenated derivatives;

[0043] - esters of one or more fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucoses or their ethoxylated derivatives;

[0044] - sucrose esters;

[0045] - C 14 - C 24 fatty alcohols;

[0046] - polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as laureth-5 carboxylic acid;

[0047] - polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols containing 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as laureth-9;

[0048] - polyoxyethylenated derivatives of monoglycerides of fatty acids, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate,

[0049] - sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate;

[0050] - fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols; and

[0051] - mixtures thereof.

[0052] As polyglycerides of one or more fatty acids, products containing 2 to 10 glycerol units may be mentioned, such as polyglycerol monolaurate, monooleate, monomyristate, monocaprylate or monostearate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono(isostearate) containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol dioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol dilaurate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol dimyristate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol trimyristate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol trioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, and polyglycerol tricaprylate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0053] Polyglycerides include one or more C 16-C 22 Polyglycerol esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 oleate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-2 sesquioleate, triglycerol diisostearate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate or mixtures thereof.

[0054] Monoacylglycerols include but are not limited to glycerol monoesters, preferably one or more C 16 -C 22 Monoacylglycerols of saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate or mixtures thereof.

[0055] As monoacylglycerols of one or more fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or triglyceride stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate or mixtures thereof can be cited, or as its polyoxyethylenated derivatives, one or more mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids with polyoxyethylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triesters of one or more fatty acids with polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or triglyceride stearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, triglyceride stearate and / or mono-, di-, triisostearate). Preferably, the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of monoacylglycerols of one or more fatty acids contain 10 to 40 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-20 triglycerol triisostearate.

[0056] The nonionic surfactant can be selected from esters of polyols with one or more fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or their polyoxyethylenated derivatives, preferably containing 10 to 200, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as one or more C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 Monoacylglycerols or polyglycerol esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyethylenated derivatives, preferably containing 10 to 200, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; one or more C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 Sorbitan esters of fatty acids or their polyoxyethylenated derivatives, preferably containing 10 to 200, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; one or more C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22Sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, and / or alkyl glucoside) esters of fatty acids or their polyoxyethylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, or more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; sugars with one or more C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 ethers of fatty alcohols; or mixtures thereof.

[0057] Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as products containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate sold by CRODA under the name ARLACEL 165, and products containing glyceryl stearate (mono- and diglyceryl stearate) and potassium stearate sold by Goldschmidt under the name TEGIN (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0058] Sorbitan esters of one or more C8-C 24 fatty acids and their polyoxyethylenated derivatives may be selected from sorbitan laurate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, and esters of one or more fatty acids with alkoxylated sorbitan containing, for example, from 20 to 100 EO, such as sorbitan monostearate sold by ICI under the name Span60 (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate sold by ICI under the name Span 40 (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), or sorbitan tristearate 20 EO sold by ICI under the name Tween65 (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), or compounds sold by Uniqema under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60.

[0059] As esters of one or more fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucosides, there may be mentioned glucosyl palmitate, alkyl glucoside sesquisterates such as methyl glucoside sesquisterate, alkyl glucoside palmitates such as methyl glucoside palmitate or ethyl glucoside palmitate, methyl glucoside fatty esters, diesters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside dioleate); mixed esters of methyl glucoside and a mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside dioleate / hydroxystearate); esters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside isostearate); esters of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside laurate); mixtures of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside sesquiisostearate); mixtures of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside sesquistearate), in particular the product sold by AMERCHOL under the name Glucate SS, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] As ethoxylated ethers of one or more fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucosides, for example, there may be mentioned ethoxylated ethers of one or more fatty acids and methyl glucoside, in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of a diester of methyl glucoside and stearic acid containing approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucoside distearate), such as the product sold by AMERCHOL under the name Glucam E-20 distearate; polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid containing approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucoside sesquistearate), in particular the product sold by AMERCHOL under the name Glucamate SSE-20, and the product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Grillocose PSE-20, or mixtures thereof.

[0061] As sucrose esters, for example, there may be mentioned sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

[0062] As C 14 -C 24 As fatty alcohols, there may be mentioned oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignocerylic alcohol (1ignocerylic alcohol) and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Preferably, the fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols are esters of polyethylene glycol containing 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups and saturated or unsaturated fatty acids containing 12 to 30 carbon atoms. More preferably, the fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols are selected from polyethylene glycol 2OE monostearate or polyethylene glycol 100 monostearate (PEG-100 stearate).

[0064] According to the present invention, the nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, monoglycerides of one or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] More preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from mixtures of at least one fatty acid ester of polyalkylene glycol and at least one monoglyceride of a fatty acid, especially a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.

[0066] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition, the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably 0.4% to 5% by weight.

[0067] Non-ionic Polymer

[0068] According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least one nonionic polymer.

[0069] Preferably, the nonionic polymer is selected from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having the following chemical formula (I):

[0070] H-(O-CH2-CH2) a -(O-CH(CH3)-CH2) b -(O-CH2-CH2) a′ -OH (I)

[0071] wherein a and a' are each independently 2 to 150, and b is 1 to 100.

[0072] Advantageously, the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of formula (I) corresponds to a polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock condensate.

[0073] According to some embodiments, in the above chemical structure (I), a and a' are each independently 10 to 130, and b is 20 to 80. According to some embodiments, a and a' are each independently 50 to 130, and b is 30 to 80, and preferably a and a' are each independently 80 to 130, and b is 40 to 80. According to a particular embodiment, a and a' are the same.

[0074] The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide useful in the compositions of the present invention preferably has a weight average molecular weight of 250 to 19000, more preferably 1200 to 15000, especially 1500 to 10000 and even more preferably 1500 to 5000.

[0075] Advantageously, the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a cloud point in 10 g / l of distilled water of greater than or equal to 20 °C and preferably greater than or equal to 60 °C. The cloud point is measured according to standard ISO 1065.

[0076] As polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold by Croda under the name Synperonic, such as PE / F32 (INCI name: poloxamer 108), PE / F108 (INCI name: poloxamer 338), PE / L44 (INCI name: poloxamer 124), PE / L42 (INCI name: poloxamer 122), PE / F127 (INCI name: poloxamer 407), PE / F88 (INCI name: poloxamer 238), PE / L64 (INCI name: poloxamer 184), PE / F88 (INCI name: poloxamer 238), PE / F87 (INCI name: poloxamer 237), or polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold by BASF under the name F68 (INCI name: poloxamer 188).

[0077] Preferably, the nonionic polymer according to the invention is selected from poloxamers, in particular PE / F108 (INCI name: poloxamer 338).

[0078] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition, the nonionic polymer is present in an amount of from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% to 0.6% by weight.

[0079] Anionic Surfactant

[0080] According to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one anionic surfactant.

[0081] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl phosphate salts.

[0082] In some embodiments, the alkyl phosphate salts are selected from dialkyl phosphate salts, monoalkyl phosphate salts or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the alkyl phosphate salt is a monoalkyl phosphate salt.

[0083] As used herein, the term "monoalkyl" means that the phosphate unit is attached to only one alkyl chain, and the term "dialkyl" means that the phosphate unit is attached to two alkyl chains.

[0084] In some embodiments, the monoalkyl phosphate salt has the following formula (II):

[0085]

[0086] Wherein:

[0087] R1 represents a straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl or alkenyl group containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0088] A represents an alkylene group containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms;

[0089] n represents an integer from 0 to 20, preferably n is 0;

[0090] X represents an alkali metal such as potassium, lithium, and sodium.

[0091] Preferably, the dialkyl phosphate salt is selected from dicetyl phosphate salts such as potassium dicetyl phosphate, and dimyristyl phosphate salts.

[0092] Preferably, the monoalkyl phosphate salt is selected from potassium lauryl phosphate and potassium cetyl phosphate, for example, under the trade names K(Roche), A(Roche), MAP(Uniqema), MCA(Croda) and K(DSM Nutritional Products) are commercially available.

[0093] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1 wt% to 1 wt%, preferably 0.2 wt% to 0.8 wt%, and more preferably 0.4 wt% to 0.6 wt%.

[0094] Oil

[0095] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one oil.

[0096] Hereinafter, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0097] As the oil, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0098] The oil can be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones, etc.; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols, and ethers; or a mixture thereof.

[0099] The oil can be an oil of plant or animal origin and a synthetic oil.

[0100] As examples of vegetable oils, mention may be made, for example, of linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oleifera oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, almond oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain C1-C 26 Liquid esters of aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain C1-C 26 aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester being greater than or equal to 10.

[0102] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Ether hydrocarbon oils, also known as ether oils, can be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

[0104] Ether hydrocarbon oils are oils of the formula R1OR2, where R1 and R2 independently represent straight-chain, branched-chain, or cyclic C4-C 24 alkyl groups, preferably C6-C 18 alkyl groups, and preferably C8-C 12 alkyl groups. Preferably, R1 and R2 are the same.

[0105] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc.; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc.; and mixtures thereof.

[0106] In some embodiments, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

[0107] These silicone oils can also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and contain one or more organic functional groups connected via hydrocarbon groups in their structures.

[0108] Organic polysiloxanes are more particularly defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0109] When they are volatile, the silicone is more particularly selected from those having a boiling point of from 60 °C to 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0110] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile 7207 or by Rhodia under the name 70045 V2, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile 7158 and by Rhodia under the name 70045 V5, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made, for example, of ring copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide Corporation, having the formula:

[0111] where

[0112] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as a mixture (50 / 50) of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexamethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0113] (ii) Containing from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having at 25 °C less than or equal to 5×10 -6 m 2Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, especially sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone Co., Ltd. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

[0114] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups can be mainly mentioned.

[0115] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following products can be mentioned in a non-limiting way:

[0116] - Oils of series 47 and 70 047 sold by Rhodia or oils, such as oil 70 047V500 000;

[0117] - Oils of the series sold by Rhodia;

[0118] - Oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 / s;

[0119] - Oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0120] Polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, named Dimethiconol (CTFA), can also be mentioned, such as oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.

[0121] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, polydiarylsiloxanes can be mentioned, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that can be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

[0122] - Oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia ;

[0123] - Oils of the 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0124] - Oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0125] - Silicones from the PK series of Bayer, such as product PK20;

[0126] - Certain oils from the SF series of General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

[0127] The organically modified liquid silicone can especially contain polyethoxy and / or polypropoxy. Thereby, mention can be made of silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and oils L722 and L77 from Union Carbide Corporation.

[0128] The hydrocarbon oil can be selected from:

[0129] - Straight-chain or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16 lower alkanes; and

[0130] - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0131] According to the present invention, the oil is preferably selected from vegetable oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the oil is selected from almond oil, polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention, the oil is present in an amount of 1% to 30% by weight, preferably 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably 10% to 20% by weight.

[0133] Aqueous Solvent

[0134] The composition of the present invention can contain at least one aqueous solvent.

[0135] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention contains water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, such as C2-C8 polyols or monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0136] The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that can be mentioned include diols, such as butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isopentylene glycol, hexanediol, octanediol, glycerol (i.e., propanetriol), and polyethylene glycol.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present application comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isopentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, glycerol, and polyethylene glycol.

[0138] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises water and at least one C2-C8 polyol, preferably butylene glycol and / or glycerol (i.e., glycerin).

[0139] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition, the C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount of 1 wt% to 30 wt%, preferably 3 wt% to 25 wt%, and more preferably 5 wt% to 20 wt%.

[0140] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition, water is present in an amount of 30 wt% to 85 wt%, preferably 40 wt% to 75 wt%, and more preferably 45 wt% to 70 wt%.

[0141] Additional Ingredients

[0142] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients selected from those conventionally used in skin care products.

[0143] The composition according to the present invention may comprise any of the following additives: dispersants; pH regulators; preservatives; antibacterial agents; fragrances; thickeners; chelating agents; and other surfactants other than those defined above.

[0144] Those skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of the additional ingredients present in the composition according to the present invention by conventional operations so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.

[0145] Combination

[0146] The present invention provides a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extracts, and mixtures thereof, said combination comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of:

[0147] a) at least two nonionic surfactants, and

[0148] b) at least one nonionic polymer,

[0149] wherein the types of the active, nonionic surfactants, and nonionic polymers are as defined above.

[0150] In some embodiments, relative to the total weight of the composition, the peptide is present in an amount of 0.001 wt% to 0.1 wt%, and preferably 0.01 wt% to 0.06 wt%.

[0151] In some embodiments, the vitex agnus-castus extract is present in an amount of from 0.0002% to 0.3% by weight, and preferably from 0.0003% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0152] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a cream, particularly an oil-in-water (O / W) cream.

[0153] According to the invention, the peptide and the vitex agnus-castus extract (if present) are preferably derived from a commercial formulation which is in the form of a solution or an emulsion and which contains, based on the total weight of the formulation, at least one aqueous solvent in an amount of 90% by weight or more, said aqueous solvent containing water and a polyol, and optionally at least one of a thickening agent, a pH regulator, a dispersing agent, a preservative and other surfactants other than those defined above in an amount of 10% by weight or less.

[0154] In some embodiments, the commercial formulation contains at least one aqueous solvent containing water and a polyol in an amount of 93% by weight or more, 95% by weight or more, 97% by weight or more, or 99% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the commercial formulation, wherein the polyol is preferably selected from butanediol and glycerol.

[0155] In some embodiments, the commercial formulation contains at least one of a thickening agent, a pH regulator, a dispersing agent, a preservative and other surfactants other than those defined above in an amount of 8% by weight or less, 5% by weight or less, 3% by weight or less, or 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the commercial formulation, wherein the thickening agent, the pH regulator, the dispersing agent, the preservative and the other surfactants are selected from those commonly used in cosmetics.

[0156] Preferably, the concentration of the peptide and / or the vitex agnus-castus extract in the raw material formulation is less than 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight.

[0157] According to the invention, the weight ratio of the non-ionic surfactant to the non-ionic polymer can be from 1.5 to 10, or from 2 to 8, or from 3 to 6, such as 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5 and 10.

[0158] In a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active agent selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extracts and mixtures thereof, said combination comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of the following substances:

[0159] a) At least two nonionic surfactants selected from fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, monoglycerides of one or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, and

[0160] b) At least one nonionic polymer selected from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock copolymers,

[0161] wherein the peptide (if present) is selected from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, carnosine, and derivatives and mixtures thereof, and the composition is preferably in the form of an O / W cream.

[0162] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active agent selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extracts, and mixtures thereof, said combination comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of:

[0163] a) A mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and

[0164] b) At least one poloxamer,

[0165] wherein the peptide (if present) is selected from acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and mixtures thereof, especially acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, and is present in an amount of 0.01 wt% to 0.06 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0166] the Vitex agnus-castus extract (if present) is present in an amount of 0.0003 wt% to 0.1 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0167] the composition is preferably in the form of an O / W cream.

[0168] Composition

[0169] According to the present invention, a composition comprising the above components may be in the form of a lotion, emulsion, paste, cream, or gel, especially an oil-in-water (O / W) lotion, O / W emulsion, O / W paste, O / W cream, or O / W gel.

[0170] According to the present invention, the peptides and Vitex agnus-castus extracts comprised in the composition are preferably derived from the commercial formulations defined above.

[0171] Preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of an emulsion or cream, especially an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or cream. More preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of a cream, especially an oil-in-water (O / W) cream.

[0172] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin materials, especially skin, comprising:

[0173] a) at least one active agent selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, wherein said peptide (if present) is selected from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, carnosine and its derivatives and mixtures,

[0174] b) at least two non-ionic surfactants selected from fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, monoglycerides of one or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof,

[0175] c) at least one non-ionic polymer selected from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock copolymers, and optionally

[0176] d) at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl phosphate salts,

[0177] wherein the composition is preferably in the form of an O / W emulsion or cream.

[0178] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for treating skin, comprising:

[0179] a) at least one active agent selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, wherein said peptide (if present) is selected from acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, especially acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, and is present in an amount of 0.01% to 0.06% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and said Vitex agnus-castus extract (if present) is present in an amount of 0.0003% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0180] b) a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate in an amount of 0.4% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0181] c) at least one poloxamer in an amount of 0.4% to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally

[0182] d) potassium cetyl phosphate in an amount of 0.4% to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0183] wherein the composition is in the form of an O / W emulsion or cream.

[0184] Methods and Uses

[0185] The composition according to the invention is used in a method for treating keratin materials such as skin by applying it to the keratin materials.

[0186] It has been found that the compositions according to the invention can provide an ideal stability over a long period of time and within a wide temperature range, and also provide a good feel on keratin materials.

[0187] The compositions according to the invention can be applied by any means capable of homogeneous distribution, in particular using the fingers or the palm.

[0188] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying the above composition to the keratin material and optionally massaging the keratin material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.

[0189] According to yet another aspect, the invention relates to the use of a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active substance selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof and preferably in the form of an O / W emulsion or cream, wherein the combination comprises at least two non-ionic surfactants and at least one non-ionic polymer as defined above, consists essentially of or even consists of them.

[0190] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations. Examples

[0191] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0192] Table 1

[0193]

[0194] Comparative Examples 1-6 Invention Example 1

[0195] Compositions according to Comparative Examples (CE.) 1-6 and Inventive Example (Ex.) 1 comprising the ingredients shown in Table 2 are prepared, where all amounts are expressed as weight percentages of the active substance relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0196] Table 2

[0197]

[0198] Preparation Method

[0199] The composition is prepared by a method comprising the following steps, taking the composition of Inventive Example 1 as an example:

[0200] 1) Mix butylene glycol, glycerol, water and potassium cetyl phosphate to form an aqueous phase, mix glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, almond oil, polydimethylsiloxane and poloxamer 338 to form an oil phase, and heat the aqueous phase and the oil phase to a temperature of 80 °C respectively;

[0201] 2) Introduce the oil phase into the water phase to form Mixture 1, and emulsify Mixture 1 for ten minutes;

[0202] 3) Cool Mixture 1 to a temperature of 50 °C, and then add the active ingredient acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and vitex agnus-castus extract to Mixture 1 to form Mixture 2; and

[0203] 4) Cool Mixture 2 to a temperature of 35 °C to form the final composition and stir it until homogeneous.

[0204] Stability Test

[0205] Check the properties for evaluating the stability, including appearance and texture, of each composition of Invention Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-6 at 4 °C and under cycling (from -20 °C to 20 °C daily) temperatures respectively at T0 (at the start of the test), T1M (after 1 month), and T2M (after 2 months).

[0206] Check the properties by microscopy, including whether the edges are complete and the size and uniformity of the oil droplets, where the parameters of the microscope are set to 10*10 magnification.

[0207] If a) the mixture is not emulsified into a cream; or b) the microscopy results show that large and / or irregular oil droplets are observed; or c) the microscopy results show that the edges are incomplete; or d) the appearance becomes rough during the stability test at 4 °C and / or under cycling, then the stability test is considered to have failed.

[0208] Sensory Test

[0209] For each composition of Invention Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 and 4-6, invite six people to participate in the sensory test. A dermatologist comments on the feel of each sample, and the corresponding comments and results are recorded in Table 3 below.

[0210] The results obtained are summarized in Table 3.

[0211] Table 3

[0212] Examples Stability Sensation CE.1 Failed Not Tested because the Mixture did not Emulsify into a Cream CE.2 Failed Poor Sensation: Shiny, Slightly Greasy, Insufficient Moisturization CE.3 Failed Not Tested because the Mixture did not Emulsify into a Cream CE.4 Failed Poor Sensation: Difficult to Spread, Oil Floating, Greasy and Shiny CE.5 Failed Good Sensation: Good Skin Affinity, Soft, Moisturizing and Smooth CE.6 Failed Poor Sensation: Residual Oil between Fingers, Not Moisturizing Ex.1 Passed Good Sensation: Good Skin Affinity, Soft, Moisturizing and Smooth

[0213] As can be seen from Table 3 above, only the composition of Invention Example 1 (which contains at least two nonionic surfactants and at least one nonionic polymer of the present invention) passed the stability test, that is, an ideal stability in the form of an O / W cream was obtained even within a long time (for example, two months) and a wide temperature range (for example, 4 °C and cycling), and an ideal good feel was provided. In contrast, the compositions of Comparative Examples containing only one nonionic surfactant or no nonionic polymer did not pass the stability test and / or could not obtain an ideal good feel.

Claims

1. A composition preferably for treating keratin materials, comprising: a) at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extracts, and mixtures thereof, b) at least two nonionic surfactants, and c) at least one nonionic polymer.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the peptide is selected from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, carnosine, and derivatives and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the peptide is selected from D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine, and derivatives thereof, including anserine and baleine; acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-2, acetyl tetrapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, acetyl tetrapeptide-7, acetyl tetrapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, acetyl octapeptide-3, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and mixtures thereof, especially acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of the peptide and / or the Vitex agnus-castus extract in the raw material formulation is less than 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, monoglycerides of one or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from mixtures of at least one fatty acid ester of polyalkylene glycol and at least one monoglyceride of a fatty acid, especially a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonionic polymer is selected from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having the following chemical formula (I): H-(O-CH2-CH2) a -(O-CH(CH3)-CH2) b -(O-CH2-CH2) a′ -OH (I) wherein a and a' are each independently from 2 to 150, b is from 1 to 100, and preferably selected from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock copolymers; more preferably selected from poloxamers, and most preferably poloxamer 338.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, relative to the total weight of the composition, the peptide is present in an amount of from 0.0001% to 0.15% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.06% by weight, and / or relative to the total weight of the composition, the Vitex agnus-castus extract is present in an amount of from 0.0001% to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0002% to 0.3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.0003% to 0.1% by weight.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably 0.4% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonionic polymer is present in an amount of 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably 0.4% to 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one anionic surfactant, preferably selected from alkyl phosphate salts, especially potassium cetyl phosphate, wherein the anionic surfactant is preferably present in an amount of 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably 0.4% to 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one oil selected from vegetable oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from almond oil, polydimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof, wherein the oil is preferably present in an amount of 1% to 30% by weight, preferably 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising an aqueous solvent containing water and at least one C2-C8 polyol, wherein the C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount of 1% to 30% by weight, preferably 3% to 25% by weight, and more preferably 5% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and water is present in an amount of 30% to 85% by weight, preferably 40% to 75% by weight, and more preferably 45% to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to claim 1, comprising: a) at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extracts and mixtures thereof, wherein the peptide, if present, is selected from acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, especially acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, and is present in an amount of 0.01% to 0.06% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; and the Vitex agnus-castus extract, if present, is present in an amount of 0.0003% to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; b) a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate in an amount of 0.4% to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, c) at least one poloxamer in an amount of 0.4% to 0.6% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, and optionally d) potassium cetyl phosphate in an amount of 0.4% to 0.6% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) lotion, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, an oil-in-water (O / W) paste, an oil-in-water (O / W) cream or an oil-in-water (O / W) gel, especially in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) cream.

14. A method for treating keratin materials, especially the skin, comprising: a) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 - 13 to the keratin material, and optionally b) massaging the keratin material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.

15. A combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active substance selected from peptides, Vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof and preferably in the form of an O / W cream, said combination comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of: a) at least two nonionic surfactants, and b) at least one nonionic polymer, wherein the nonionic surfactants are selected from fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, monoglycerides of one or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, especially a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate; and the nonionic polymer is selected from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock copolymers, especially poloxamer 338.

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