Composition for improving skin transparency and application and cosmetic thereof

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetic production, and discloses a composition for improving skin transparency, the composition comprises a main extract and an auxiliary extract, the main extract is a mixture of a citrus peel extract and a dogwood extract; the auxiliary extract is selected from a reed extract and / or a licorice extract; in the main extract, the mass ratio of the citrus peel extract to the dogwood extract is (3-5): (5-8); the mass ratio of the main extract to the auxiliary extract is (8-13): (5-8), the composition provided by the invention can significantly inhibit tyrosinase through the synergistic effect of a plurality of action pathways so as to achieve a whitening effect, and tests find that the composition provided by the invention also has good skin color brightening ability, and in addition, the composition has a good application prospect. The invention further discloses application of the composition for improving skin transparency and a cosmetic.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of cosmetic production, and particularly relates to a composition for improving skin transparency, its application, and cosmetics. Background Art

[0003] Japanese cosmetics company "KAO" announced the removal of the word "whitening (Bihaku)" from all its products, which is part of their expression of whitening diversity. This year, expressions such as "brightening" and "increasing / enhancing / showing translucency" have also become more prominent in the Japanese market. The market is redefining the term "whitening" and focusing on the health state of the skin, rather than just skin color. Using natural and effective ingredients such as "radiant", "glowing", and "transparent skin" to make the skin transparent, moisturized, and shiny will become a new claim trend in whitening care.

[0004] Chinese Patent Application No. 202411607784.4 discloses a composition with post-sun repair and whitening effects and its preparation method. The composition in this solution includes ergothioneine complex, N-acetylchitosan, niacinamide, sodium hyaluronate, inositol, Aloe barbadensis Miller extract, glycerophosphoinositol choline salt, ectoine, oat β-glucan complex, citrus peel extract complex, and skin brightener.

[0005] The ergothioneine complex includes ergothioneine, Tricholoma matsutake extract, and mannitol.

[0006] The oat β-glucan complex includes oat β-glucan, butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octyldodecanol, and water.

[0007] The citrus peel extract complex includes citrus peel extract, butanediol, and water.

[0008] The INCI name of the skin brightener is arginine ferulate / 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide / Cornus officinalis extract.

[0009] Further observing the specification part of this solution, it can be seen that when glycerophosphoinositol choline salt, citrus peel extract complex, and skin brightener are compounded, the effects of the composition in post-sun repair and whitening can be improved simultaneously. Referring to its formula, the skin brightener is specifically a mixture of arginine ferulate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, and Cornus officinalis extract.

[0010] It can be seen that this solution points out that citrus peel extract has a certain contribution in the fields of post-sun skin repair and whitening, and the combination with a skin brightener (substance containing Cornus officinalis extract) may further enhance the whitening effect of the product.

[0011] Problems to be solved by this solution: How to provide a composition different from the prior art and having a good whitening effect. Summary of the Invention

[0012] The object of the present application is to provide a composition different from the prior art and having a good whitening effect, and the above "whitening" is achieved from multiple perspectives of improving the inhibition of melanin and enhancing skin transparency. On the one hand, the above formula can inhibit tyrosinase to a certain extent and reduce the production of melanin. On the other hand, the combination of various plant extracts can enhance the brightness and gloss of the skin.

[0013] To achieve the above object, the present application discloses a composition for enhancing skin transparency, including a main extract and an auxiliary extract, wherein the main extract is a mixture of citrus peel extract and cornel fruit extract;

[0014] The auxiliary extract is selected from reed extract and / or licorice extract;

[0015] In the main extract, the mass ratio of citrus peel extract to cornel fruit extract is 3 - 5:5 - 8;

[0016] The mass ratio of the main extract to the auxiliary extract is 8 - 13:5 - 8.

[0017] Preferably, the auxiliary extract is a mixture of reed extract and licorice extract, and the mass ratio of reed extract to licorice extract is 1 - 3:1 - 4.

[0018] In addition, the present application also discloses the use of the composition for enhancing skin transparency as described above in the preparation of cosmetics.

[0019] In addition, the present application also discloses a cosmetic containing 1 - 30 wt% of the composition for enhancing skin transparency.

[0020] Preferably, the dosage form of the cosmetic is a patch, ointment, liquid, spray, gel, emulsion or cream.

[0021] Preferably, the cosmetic is a gel, essence, toner, facial mask, facial cleanser, lotion, perfume, makeup remover, lipstick, blush or spray.

[0022] Preferably, the cosmetic is an essence, and the essence, by mass ratio, includes:

[0023] 5.0% - 7.0% of butanediol;

[0024] 3.0% - 5.0% of glycerol;

[0025] 2.0% - 3.0% of betaine;

[0026] 0.01 to 0.05% of EDTA-2NA;

[0027] 0.06% to 0.1% of hydrolyzed sclerotium gum;

[0028] 0.3% to 0.5% of acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer;

[0029] 1.0% to 3.0% of panthenol;

[0030] 0.05% to 0.1% of sodium hyaluronate;

[0031] 0.2% to 0.4% of phenoxyethanol;

[0032] 0.4% to 0.6% of 1,2-hexanediol;

[0033] 0.5% to 0.8% of jojoba seed oil;

[0034] 1.0% to 3.0% of salicylic acid;

[0035] 0.5% to 1.0% of 3-O-ethylascorbic acid;

[0036] 0.3% to 0.5% of isosorbide dimethyl ether;

[0037] 1.0 to 30.0% of a composition for improving skin transparency;

[0038] Deionized water added to a total mass fraction of 100%.

[0039] The beneficial effects of this application are as follows: In this application, the citrus peel extract as the main extract component takes vitamin C as the core, and by reducing the intermediate product of melanin, dopa, it hinders the melanin oxidation process;

[0040] Components such as the freckle-removing element and cornel flavone in the cornel extract can significantly inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and the inhibitory effect increases with the increase in concentration, thereby reducing melanin production;

[0041] In addition, as an auxiliary extract, the reed extract directly inhibits the activity of tyrosinase (dominated by flavonoid components);

[0042] Components such as glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhizin in the licorice extract can directly bind to tyrosinase, inhibit its catalytic activity, and reduce the production of melanin precursors (such as dopa). At the same time, the flavonoid compounds in the licorice extract block the activation of tyrosinase induced by oxidative stress by scavenging free radicals. When the above plant extracts are used in combination, they further inhibit tyrosinase through the synergistic effect between multiple action pathways, reducing the production and deposition of skin melanin. Detailed implementation methods

[0043] The embodiments of the present invention will be described clearly and completely below. In the description of the present invention, it should be noted that for those conditions not specified in the embodiments, they are carried out according to conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. For reagents or instruments without indicating the manufacturer, they are all conventional products that can be obtained through commercial purchase.

[0044] Before presenting the embodiments, the following necessary explanations will be given regarding the preparation and acquisition routes of the raw materials involved in the embodiments:

[0045] The citrus peel extract is purchased from Guangzhou Zhaoxi Biotechnology Co., Ltd., and the content of the active substance is about 73%;

[0046] The cornel extract is purchased from Xi'an Shangcheng Biotechnology Co., Ltd., and the content of the active substance is about 10%;

[0047] The reed extract is purchased from Shanxi Jixianmei Biotechnology Co., Ltd., and the content of the active substance is about 10%;

[0048] The licorice extract is purchased from Tianran (Guangzhou) New Materials Research and Development Co., Ltd., and the content of the active substance is about 10%;

[0049] A composition for providing skin transparency is prepared by mixing the citrus peel extract as the main extract, the cornel extract, and the licorice extract as the auxiliary extract, and dispersing them to obtain the composition for providing skin transparency. (It should be noted that unless otherwise specified, the preparation method of the composition in the following examples and comparative examples is all this method. For the specific addition amounts of each plant extract, see the specific descriptions of each example and comparative example)

[0050] Preparation of the first part of the composition and testing of its whitening effect

[0051] Examples 1 - 8

[0052] A composition for providing skin transparency, the quality ratios between the raw materials are shown in Table 1:

[0053] Table 1

[0054] Group Citrus Peel Extract Cornus officinalis Sieb. et Zucc. Extract Phragmites communis Trin. Extract Licorice Extract Example 1 3 8 / 5 Example 2 4 6 / 6 Example 3 5 5 / 8 Example 4 3 8 / 6 Example 5 5 5 / 6 Example 6 4 6 6 / Example 7 4 6 3 3 Example 8 4 6 2.6 3.2

[0055] Comparative Examples 1 - 8

[0056] A composition, the quality ratios between the raw materials are shown in Table 2:

[0057] Table 2

[0058]

[0059]

[0060] Performance test:

[0061] 1. Tyrosinase Inhibition Rate Test

[0062] 1.1 Reagents for the Test

[0063] Deionized water, sodium phosphate buffer solution (PBS, pH = 6.8, 0.1 mol / L), L-tyrosine solution (7.5 mmol / L), test solution (dilute the compositions prepared in the examples and comparative examples with water to a mass fraction of 15% of the composition), tyrosinase solution (configure tyrosinase into a solution of 100 U / mL with sodium phosphate buffer solution);

[0064] 1.2 Test Method

[0065] Add samples according to Table 3. Using L-tyrosine solution as the reaction substrate, set up four groups of sample solutions, and add PBS buffer solution, L-tyrosine solution and samples with different ratios respectively. Set 3 parallel samples for each sample. After incubating in a 37°C water bath for 10 min, add tyrosinase solution, mix well, then incubate in a 37°C water bath for 10 min, quickly transfer to a cuvette, and measure the absorbance value at 475 nm;

[0066] Table 3

[0067] Sample PBS L-Tyrosine Solution Tyrosinase Solution Total Addition Blank Group / 1.4mL 0.8mL 0.4mL 2.6mL Blank Control Group / 1.8mL 0.8mL / 2.6mL Sample Group 0.8mL 0.6mL 0.8mL 0.4mL 2.6mL Sample Control Group 0.8mL 1.0mL 0.8mL / 2.6mL

[0068] Calculate the inhibition rate of the sample on tyrosinase activity according to Equation 1:

[0069]

[0070] In Equation 1, A is the absorbance value of the sample group, A0 is the absorbance value of the sample control group, B is the absorbance value of the blank group, and B0 is the absorbance value of the blank control group;

[0071] The calculation results of the tyrosinase inhibition rate are shown in Table 4:

[0072] Table 4

[0073] Group Tyrosinase Inhibition Rate / % Group Tyrosinase Inhibition Rate / % Example 1 61.68 Comparative Example 1 57.25 Example 2 63.04 Comparative Example 2 54.32 Example 3 62.59 Comparative Example 3 55.81 Example 4 62.31 Comparative Example 4 48.79 Example 5 61.02 Comparative Example 5 46.14 Example 6 59.87 Comparative Example 6 45.01 Example 7 67.83 Comparative Example 7 51.45 Example 8 66.20 Comparative Example 8 52.97

[0074] Result Analysis:

[0075] 1. As can be seen from Examples 1 - 6, when slightly changing the addition amount of the main extract and the addition amount or type of the auxiliary extract, the tyrosinase inhibition rates of Examples 1 - 6 showed a certain degree of fluctuation trend. However, even Example 6 with the worst tyrosinase inhibition ability was still at a relatively high level;

[0076] Further observation of Examples 7 - 8 shows that when Examples 7 - 8 use a mixture of reed extract and licorice extract, the tyrosinase inhibition rate of Examples 7 - 8 shows a more obvious upward trend. Observing Examples 2, 6, and 7, it can be seen that the tyrosinase inhibition rate of Example 7 should theoretically be between those of Examples 2 and 6, but Example 7 significantly exceeds the tyrosinase inhibition ability of either Example 2 or 6. It can be seen that a synergistic effect is produced between the two co - extracts, thus enabling Example 7 to have such excellent tyrosinase inhibition ability;

[0077] 2. From Examples 7 and Comparative Examples 1 and 4, it can be seen that the tyrosinase inhibition ability of Comparative Examples 1 and 4 is significantly inferior to that of Example 7. The tyrosinase inhibition ability of Example 7 should theoretically be between those of Comparative Examples 1 and 4, but the tyrosinase inhibition ability of Example 7 is higher than that of either Comparative Example 1 or 4. It can be seen that a synergistic effect is also produced between the main extract and the co - extract, thus enabling Example 7 to have good tyrosinase inhibition ability;

[0078] 3. Further observation of Comparative Examples 2 - 3 shows that in Comparative Examples 2 - 3, the citrus peel extract and the cornus officinalis extract, which are the components of the main extract, are respectively omitted, and their tyrosinase inhibition abilities are also much lower than that of Example 7, even lower than that of Comparative Example 1 without the co - extract. It can be seen that when one of the two main extracts is missing, the synergistic effect between the main extract and the co - extract is extremely weak;

[0079] 4. From Comparative Examples 5 - 8, it can be seen that when using substances with a certain tyrosinase inhibition ability to replace the co - extract, the improvement effect of the tyrosinase inhibition ability of Comparative Examples 7 - 8 compared to Comparative Examples 5 - 6 is not obvious, and it is lower than that of Comparative Example 1 (without the co - extract). It can be seen that not all substances with tyrosinase inhibition ability can produce a good synergistic effect with the main extract when replacing the co - extract in this scheme.

[0080] The second part: Preparation of cosmetics and testing of brightening effect

[0081] Application Example 1

[0082] A kind of whitening and brightening cosmetic, the preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0083] Step 1: Add deionized water, butylene glycol, glycerol, betaine, EDTA - 2NA, hydrolyzed sclerotium gum, acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / VP copolymer, panthenol, and sodium hyaluronate into an emulsifying pot, heat up to 82 ± 2 °C, homogenize for 2 min, keep warm for more than 20 min until completely dissolved;

[0084] Step 2: Cool the emulsifying pot to about 45°C, and add the composition prepared in Example 1, phenoxyethanol, 1,2 - hexanediol, jojoba seed oil, and isosorbide dimethyl ether;

[0085] Step 3: Dissolve deionized water, salicylic acid, and 3 - O - ethyl ascorbic acid separately until clear, then add them to the emulsifying pot and stir evenly;

[0086] In addition, by mass fraction, the specific addition amounts of each raw material in the cosmetic are as follows:

[0087] 6.0% of butanediol;

[0088] 4.0% of glycerol;

[0089] 2.5% of betaine;

[0090] 0.03% of EDTA - 2NA;

[0091] 0.08% of hydrolyzed sclerotium gum;

[0092] 0.4% of acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer;

[0093] 2.0% of panthenol;

[0094] 0.08% of sodium hyaluronate;

[0095] 0.3% of phenoxyethanol;

[0096] 0.5% of 1,2 - hexanediol;

[0097] 0.6% of jojoba seed oil;

[0098] 2.0% of salicylic acid;

[0099] 0.8% of 3 - O - ethyl ascorbic acid;

[0100] 0.4% of isosorbide dimethyl ether;

[0101] 15.0% of the composition for improving skin transparency;

[0102] Deionized water added to a total mass fraction of 100%.

[0103] Application Example 2

[0104] It is basically the same as Application Example 1, except that the composition prepared in Example 7 is used to replace the composition prepared in Example 1.

[0105] 2. Brightening effect test

[0106] "Skin transparency" refers to the ratio of transmitted light to incident light at the skin surface. After the incident light is scattered at the skin surface, a part of it is scattered, and the rest is transmitted into the skin. The transmitted light (transmitted light) is reflected again from inside the skin. As the amount of light reflected from inside the skin (diffuse reflection) increases, the skin transparency increases. Therefore, by testing the skin brightness, the skin transparency can be reflected to a certain extent.

[0107] 2.1 Experimental design

[0108] Twenty healthy women aged 25 - 50 were selected and randomly divided into 2 groups, with 10 people in each group. During the testing process, the tester applied the cosmetics prepared in the application example to the face once in the morning and once in the evening every day (applying clear water to the left face and the sample of the application example to the right face), and used it continuously for 4 weeks.

[0109] 2.2 Testing instruments

[0110] CK skin tester (Germany), VISIA full-face analyzer (Germany).

[0111] 2.3 Effect indicators

[0112] Use VISA to measure L* of the facial brightness change after 4 weeks of use and before use, and calculate the difference to obtain the ΔL* value; when the ΔL* value is positive, it indicates that the facial brightness L* value increases, representing an improvement in facial brightness. When the ΔL* value is negative, it indicates that the facial brightness L* value decreases, representing a decrease in facial brightness. The specific test results are shown in Table 5:

[0113] Table 5

[0114] Group ΔL* Value of Right Cheek ΔL* Value of Left Cheek Group ΔL* Value of Right Cheek ΔL* Value of Left Cheek Application Example 1 +9.65 -0.23 Application Example 2 +12.25 +0.36

[0115] From the data in Table 5, it can be seen that the cosmetics prepared with the compositions obtained in Example 1 and Example 7 both have good ability to brighten the skin.

[0116] The embodiments presented in this article are only implementation manners selected according to the combinations of all possible embodiments. The appended claims should not be limited by the embodiments that illustrate the present invention. Some numerical ranges used in the claims include sub-ranges within them, and variations within these ranges should also be covered by the appended claims.

Claims

1. A composition for improving skin transparency, characterized in that, It includes a main extract and an auxiliary extract. The main extract is a mixture of citrus peel extract and cornel fruit extract; The auxiliary extract is selected from reed extract and / or licorice extract; In the main extract, the mass ratio of citrus peel extract to cornel fruit extract is 3 - 5:5 - 8; The mass ratio of the main extract to the auxiliary extract is 8 - 13:5 - 8.

2. The composition for improving skin transparency according to claim 1, characterized in that, The auxiliary extract is a mixture of reed extract and licorice extract, and the mass ratio of reed extract to licorice extract is 1 - 3:1 - 4.

3. Use of the composition for improving skin transparency as described in any one of claims 1 - 2 in the preparation of cosmetics.

4. A cosmetic, characterized in that, It contains 1 - 30 wt% of the composition for improving skin transparency.

5. The cosmetic according to claim 4, characterized in that, The dosage form of the cosmetics is a patch, ointment, liquid, spray, gel, emulsion or cream.

6. The cosmetic according to claim 4, characterized in that, The cosmetics are a gel, essence, toner, facial mask, facial cleanser, lotion, perfume, makeup remover, lipstick, blush or spray.

7. The cosmetic according to claim 4, characterized in that, The cosmetics are an essence. The essence, by mass fraction, includes: 5.0% - 7.0% of butanediol; 3.0% - 5.0% of glycerol; 2.0% - 3.0% of betaine; 0.01 - 0.05% of EDTA - 2NA; 0.06% - 0.1% of hydrolyzed sclerotium gum; 0.3% - 0.5% of acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer; 1.0% - 3.0% of panthenol; 0.05% - 0.1% of sodium hyaluronate; 0.2% - 0.4% of phenoxyethanol; 0.4% - 0.6% of 1,2 - hexanediol; 0.5% - 0.8% of jojoba seed oil; 1.0% - 3.0% of salicylic acid; 0.5% - 1.0% of 3 - O - ethylascorbic acid; 0.3% - 0.5% of isosorbide dimethyl ether; 1.0 - 30.0% of the composition for improving skin transparency; Deionized water is added to a total mass fraction of 100%.

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