A firming and anti-wrinkle composition and its use

Abstract

The application discloses a firming and anti-wrinkle composition and application thereof, and belongs to the field of cosmetics. The composition comprises the following raw materials: extract of Boletus aereus, extract of Dendrobium officinale, extract of Rhodobryum roseum, and extract of Kaulfussia indica. The composition has the firming and anti-wrinkle effect through the synergistic compounding of the raw materials.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a firming and anti-wrinkle composition and application thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] Current anti-wrinkle skin care products mainly rely on the following technical routes:

[0003] Synthetic ingredients: improve wrinkles by stimulating collagen regeneration, but have high irritation (the limited concentration of retinol in the Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification is <1%) and poor light stability;

[0004] Single plant extract: safer than synthetic ingredients, but the target is single (only antioxidant or anti-inflammatory), and it is difficult to cope with the complex mechanism of oxidative stress, inflammatory response, and matrix degradation in photoaging;

[0005] Traditional compound: mainly based on experience, lacking of synergistic design of key targets such as elastase inhibition, DNA repair, and signal pathway regulation, resulting in limited efficacy improvement.

[0006] In view of the above problems, it is urgent to provide a firming and anti-wrinkle composition with multiple target points, to solve the defects of poor stability, single efficacy, and high irritation in the prior art. SUMMARY

[0007] The present application provides a firming and anti-wrinkle composition and application thereof, which has firming and anti-wrinkle effect through synergistic compounding of Grifola frondosa extract, Dendrobium officinale extract, Polygala tenuifolia extract, and Anoectochilus roxburghii extract.

[0008] In order to achieve the above purpose, the present application adopts the following technical solutions:

[0009] In the first aspect, the present application provides a firming and anti-wrinkle composition, which comprises the following mass parts of raw materials:

[0010] Grifola frondosa extract: 3-9 parts;

[0011] Dendrobium officinale extract: 1-5 parts;

[0012] Polygala tenuifolia extract: 0.2-0.8 parts;

[0013] Anoectochilus roxburghii extract: 0.1-0.5 parts.

[0014] Preferably, the composition comprises the following mass parts of raw materials:

[0015] Grifola frondosa extract: 6-9 parts;

[0016] Dendrobium officinale extract: 3-5 parts;

[0017] Polygala tenuifolia extract: 0.4-0.8 parts;

[0018] Indian club moss extract: 0.3-0.5 parts.

[0019] Preferably, the composition comprises the following mass parts of raw materials:

[0020] Grifola frondosa extract: 7 parts;

[0021] Dendrobium officinale extract: 4 parts;

[0022] Polygala tenuifolia extract: 0.5 parts;

[0023] Indian club moss extract: 0.4 parts.

[0024] In a second aspect, the present application provides a use of the firming and anti-wrinkle composition of the first aspect in the preparation of a skin care product having firming and anti-wrinkle effects.

[0025] Preferably, the dosage form of the skin care product is any one of emulsion, cream, serum, eye cream, skin toner, and facial mask.

[0026] In a third aspect, the present application provides a serum having firming and anti-wrinkle effects, which comprises the following mass percentage components:

[0027] The composition of the first aspect: 1-10 wt%;

[0028] Humectant: 0.01-5 wt%;

[0029] Emollient: 0.01-2 wt%;

[0030] Thickening agent: 0.1-1 wt%;

[0031] Preservative: 0.01-0.5 wt%;

[0032] Deionized water is supplemented to 100 wt%.

[0033] Preferably, the humectant is at least one of sodium hyaluronate, glycerol, and butylene glycol.

[0034] Preferably, the emollient is at least one of squalane, dimethicone, and caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0035] Preferably, the thickening agent is at least one of polyacryloyldimethyltaurate sodium, and acryloyldimethyltaurate ammonium / VP copolymer.

[0036] Preferably, the preservative is at least one of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

[0037] In the present application:

[0038] Tuber melanosporum extract: Tuber melanosporum, a fungus belonging to the genus Tuber in the family Tuberaceae, is commonly known as "truffle" and is mainly distributed in Europe and southwestern China. Its extract is rich in truffle polysaccharides, triterpenoids, and essential amino acids, and has the effects of activating macrophages, promoting collagen synthesis, enhancing skin barrier function, and reducing wrinkles and sagging.

[0039] Dendrobium officinale extract: Dendrobium officinale is a plant belonging to the genus Dendrobium in the family Orchidaceae. Its extract is rich in polysaccharides, dendrobine, amino acids, vitamins, flavonoids, etc., and has multiple effects such as anti-oxidation, anti-aging, and skin care.

[0040] Cistelia monspeliensis extract: Cistelia monspeliensis, a plant belonging to the genus Cistelia in the family Clavaceae, is mainly distributed in the barren mountainous areas along the Mediterranean coast. Its core active ingredients are myricetin-3-O-rhamnoside and Cistelia monspeliensis extract (Ciste'M). These active ingredients can promote the synthesis of DNA repair enzymes (such as XPC and DDB2), reduce UVA / UVB and blue light-induced DNA damage and lipid peroxidation, inhibit the degradation of collagen by the metalloproteinase MMP-1, stimulate dermal collagen regeneration, accelerate epidermal renewal, and simultaneously enhance the basement membrane structure, thus improving wrinkles and skin laxity.

[0041] Swertia chirayita extract: Swertia chirayita, a plant belonging to the genus Swertia in the family Gentianaceae, is mainly distributed in the Himalayas. Its extract's main active components are swertiamarin and iridoid compounds. These active substances can inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors (such as ICAM-1), reduce UV-induced erythema and skin sensitivity, scavenge free radicals, reduce oxidative stress damage to the skin, and delay photoaging.

[0042] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0043] This invention combines extracts of *Tuber nigricans*, *Dendrobium officinale*, *Rosa polypore*, and *Swertia spp.* These four ingredients form a three-dimensional defense network through anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation, collagen protection, and cell regeneration. This directly inhibits elastase activity and indirectly reduces elastase expression by repairing the skin's microenvironment. This synergistic effect can significantly improve firmness and elasticity in anti-aging skincare products, making it suitable for repairing photoaging and dynamic wrinkles. Detailed Implementation

[0044] For a better understanding of the present application, reference will be made to the following detailed description of the application in connection with the accompanying drawings in which the application is illustrated by specific example. It is to be understood that this application is not limited to the specific example described and that the specific example is provided for illustrative purposes only.

[0045] The experimental methods in the following examples, unless otherwise specified, were carried out according to the conventional conditions, or according to the conditions recommended by the manufacturers. Unless otherwise specified, the percentages and parts are by weight.

[0046] Some raw materials and sources are as follows:

[0047] Grifola frondosa extract: Shanghai Haotai Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0048] Dendrobium candidum extract: Yunnan Yingge Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0049] Polygala tenuifolia extract: BASF (China) Co., Ltd.

[0050] Kappaphycus alvarezii extract: LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS

[0051] Other raw materials and reagents are commercially available.

[0052] A firming and anti-wrinkle composition, the raw materials and their mass parts are as follows:

[0053] Composition 1:

[0054] Grifola frondosa extract: 7 parts;

[0055] Dendrobium candidum extract: 4 parts;

[0056] Polygala tenuifolia extract: 0.5 parts;

[0057] Kappaphycus alvarezii extract: 0.4 parts.

[0058] Composition 2:

[0059] Grifola frondosa extract: 9 parts;

[0060] Dendrobium candidum extract: 1 part;

[0061] Polygala tenuifolia extract: 0.4 parts;

[0062] Kappaphycus alvarezii extract: 0.3 parts.

[0063] Composition 3:

[0064] Grifola frondosa extract: 3 parts;

[0065] Dendrobium candidum extract: 5 parts;

[0066] Polygala tenuifolia extract: 0.2 parts;

[0067] Indian club moss extract: 0.5 parts.

[0068] Composition 4:

[0069] Grifola frondosa extract: 6 parts;

[0070] Dendrobium officinale extract: 3 parts;

[0071] Polygala tenuifolia extract: 0.8 parts;

[0072] Indian club moss extract: 0.1 parts.

[0073] Composition ①: Different from composition 1, it lacks Grifola frondosa extract, and it is supplemented with Dendrobium officinale extract, Polygala tenuifolia extract, and Indian club moss extract in a mass ratio of 4:0.5:0.4.

[0074] Composition ②: Different from composition 1, it lacks Dendrobium officinale extract, and it is supplemented with Grifola frondosa extract, Polygala tenuifolia extract, and Indian club moss extract in a mass ratio of 7:0.5:0.4.

[0075] Composition ③: Different from composition 1, it lacks Polygala tenuifolia extract, and it is supplemented with Grifola frondosa extract, Dendrobium officinale extract, and Indian club moss extract in a mass ratio of 7:4:0.4.

[0076] Composition ④: Different from composition 1, it lacks Indian club moss extract, and it is supplemented with Grifola frondosa extract, Dendrobium officinale extract, and Polygala tenuifolia extract in a mass ratio of 7:4:0.5.

[0077] Composition ⑤:

[0078] Grifola frondosa extract: 0.4 parts;

[0079] Dendrobium officinale extract: 0.5 parts;

[0080] Polygala tenuifolia extract: 7 parts;

[0081] Indian club moss extract: 4 parts.

[0082] Elastase inhibition test:

[0083] In this test, porcine pancreatic elastase is used as the test object, and N-succinyl-alanine-alanine-p-nitroaniline (AAAPVN) is used as the substrate. Porcine pancreatic elastase can hydrolyze AAAPVN, and the hydrolysis product can cause an increase in absorbance at a wavelength of 420 nm. The absorbance is measured by an enzyme marker, and the tightening and anti-wrinkle efficacy of the composition can be evaluated.

[0084] Solution preparation:

[0085] Prepare the sample solution: use pure water to prepare the composition 1-4, composition ①-⑤ into 5wt% mixture.

[0086] Prepare Tris-HCl buffer solution: weigh 2.42g Tris in a beaker, add 200mL ultrapure water, adjust the pH to 8.0 with concentrated HCl after complete dissolution, prepare Tris-HCl buffer solution.

[0087] Prepare the positive control tea polyphenol solution: weigh 5mg of tea polyphenol, dissolve with 5mL Tris-HCl buffer solution, prepare the positive control solution.

[0088] Prepare the substrate solution AAAPVN: weigh 4.51mg AAAPCN, dissolve with 5mL Tris-HCl buffer solution, prepare the substrate solution.

[0089] Prepare porcine pancreatic elastase solution: weigh porcine pancreatic elastase in 10mL Tris-HCl buffer solution, prepare porcine pancreatic elastase solution with enzyme activity of 0.171U / mL.

[0090] Grouping of test components:

[0091] The test components are divided into four groups, namely the sample group, the positive control group, the blank control group and the model control group, and four replicate wells are set for the same concentration in the same group. The amount of each solution added is shown in Table 1.

[0092] Table 1

[0093] Sample Amount of sample solution to be tested (μL) Amount of porcine pancreatic elastase solution (μL) Amount of substrate solution AAAPVN (μL) Amount of Tris-HCL buffer solution (μL) Sample group to be tested 25 25 50 0 Positive control group 25 25 50 0 Blank control group 0 0 50 50 Model control group 0 25 50 25

[0094] Determination method: place at room temperature for 15min, measure the absorbance at 420nm with a microplate reader.

[0095] Calculation formula: inhibition rate (%) = [1-(A1-A0) / (A2-A0)]x100%

[0096] Wherein: A0 is the average absorbance of the blank control group; A1 is the average absorbance of the sample group or the positive control group; A2 is the average absorbance of the model control group, and the experimental results are expressed as average values.

[0097] Table 2

[0098] Sample group Elastase inhibition rate / % Blank control group / Model control group 0 Positive control group 70.31* Composition 1 68.42* Composition 2 62.73* Composition 3 65.14* Composition 4 67.26* Composition ① 48.37* Composition ② 45.26* Composition ③ 47.35* Composition ④ 40.41* Composition ⑤ 59.53*

[0099] Note: “*” indicates that the positive control group, composition 1-4, composition ①-⑤ and the model control group are compared, p<0.05.

[0100] The results of the comparison of composition 1 and compositions ①-⑤ show that the black truffle extract, the dendrobium extract, the polygonatum extract and the kyllinga odorata extract have significant synergistic effects in inhibiting elastase activity.

[0101] Specifically, the results of the comparison of composition 1 and compositions ①-④ show that the black truffle extract, the dendrobium extract, the polygonatum extract and the kyllinga odorata extract have certain synergistic effects, and the possible mechanism is as follows: the triterpenoids and polysaccharides in the black truffle extract can prolong the cell life span by activating the telomerase (SIRT-1 pathway) and enhancing the collagen regeneration ability of fibroblasts, and the ceramides and essential amino acids contained therein can repair the skin barrier and reduce the release of elastase caused by external stimulation; the polysaccharides and phenanthrene compounds in the dendrobium can inhibit oxidative stress by scavenging free radicals, reduce the oxidative microenvironment required for elastase activation, the active substances such as myricetin glycosides in the polygonatum can inhibit the activity of MMP-1 and MMP-3, reduce the degradation of collagen and elastin, and promote the synthesis of DNA repair enzymes such as XPC and DDB2, repair damaged skin cells, thereby reducing the source of elastase release; the kyllinga odorata bitter glycoside in the kyllinga odorata can reduce the release of pro-inflammatory factors (such as TNF-α and IL-6) by inhibiting the NF-kb and JAK2 / STAT3 signaling pathways, block the excessive activation of elastase induced by inflammation, and the iridoid compounds contained therein can down-regulate the activity of TRPV1 receptors, relieve the damage of neurogenic inflammation to the dermis, and the above four raw materials can be used together, among which the dendrobium extract and the black truffle extract can scavenge free radicals, reduce oxidative stress, and the kyllinga odorata extract can inhibit the verification signal, and the three can be used together to destroy the activation environment of elastase; the polygonatum extract can inhibit the degradation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), the dendrobium extract can promote the synthesis of collagen, and the black truffle extract can prolong the cell life span, and the three can be used together to form a closed loop from inhibition to acceleration of regeneration; the kyllinga odorata extract, the dendrobium extract and the polygonatum extract can block the upstream and downstream activation of elastase from different pathways, and further improve the elastase inhibition rate. The results of the comparison of composition 1 and composition ⑤ show that when the amount of each raw material in the composition is within the range defined in the present application, the composition has good effect of inhibiting elastase activity.

[0102] A firming and anti-wrinkle serum, the components and mass percentages thereof are as follows

[0103] Serum 1:

[0104] Firming and anti-wrinkle composition (composition 1): 5wt%;

[0105] Sodium Hyaluronate: 2 wt%;

[0106] Squalane: 1.3 wt%;

[0107] Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate Sodium: 0.3 wt%;

[0108] Phenoxyethanol: 0.3 wt%;

[0109] Deionized Water: q.s. to 100 wt%.

[0110] Serum 2:

[0111] The difference from Serum 1 is that Composition 2 is used to replace Composition 1, and the rest of the components and mass percentages are the same as Serum 1.

[0112] Serum 3:

[0113] The difference from Serum 1 is that Composition 3 is used to replace Composition 1, and the rest of the components and mass percentages are the same as Serum 1.

[0114] Serum 4:

[0115] The difference from Serum 1 is that Composition 4 is used to replace Composition 1, and the rest of the components and mass percentages are the same as Serum 1.

[0116] Composition 5:

[0117] Tightening Anti-wrinkle Composition (Composition 1): 1 wt%;

[0118] Sodium Hyaluronate: 0.01 wt%;

[0119] Squalane: 2 wt%;

[0120] Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate Sodium: 1 wt%;

[0121] Phenoxyethanol: 0.5 wt%;

[0122] Deionized Water: q.s. to 100 wt%.

[0123] Serum 6:

[0124] Tightening Anti-wrinkle Composition (Composition 1): 10 wt%;

[0125] Sodium Hyaluronate: 5 wt%;

[0126] Squalane: 0.01 wt%;

[0127] Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate Sodium: 0.1 wt%;

[0128] Phenoxyethanol: 0.01 wt%;

[0129] Deionized water: Add to 100wt.

[0130] Blank serum:

[0131] Sodium hyaluronate: 2wt%

[0132] Squalane: 1.3 wt%

[0133] Sodium polyacrylamide dimethyl taurate: 0.3 wt%;

[0134] Phenoxyethanol: 0.3 wt%;

[0135] Deionized water: Add to 100wt.

[0136] The specific preparation steps for the above-mentioned firming and anti-wrinkle serums 1-6 are as follows:

[0137] S1: Mix deionized water with the firming and anti-wrinkle composition and stir until homogeneous to obtain a mixture;

[0138] S2: Add sodium hyaluronate, squalane, sodium polyacrylamide dimethyl taurate, and phenoxyethanol to the mixture in sequence, stir and mix well to obtain the essence.

[0139] The specific preparation steps for the above blank serum are as follows:

[0140] Sodium hyaluronate, squalane, sodium polyacrylamide dimethyl taurate, and phenoxyethanol were added sequentially to deionized water and stirred until well mixed to obtain the blank essence.

[0141] Safety test

[0142] Using the 2015 "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" as a reference standard, the cosmetic irritation of serums 1-6 and blank serums was evaluated. The test method was a skin patch test, and 70 people aged 16-65 years were randomly distributed to participate in the test, with 10 people in each group.

[0143] Test method: Place the test substance into a patch applicator at a dosage of 0.020-0.025 g. Cover the patch applicator containing the test substance onto the back or flexor side of the forearm of the subject with non-irritating adhesive tape. Gently press with the palm of your hand to ensure even adhesion to the skin surface. Leave on for 24 hours. Remove the patch applicator and observe the skin reaction 30 minutes after the pressure mark disappears. If the result is negative, observe again at 24 hours and 48 hours after the patch test.

[0144] Evaluation criteria:

[0145] Grade 0: Negative reaction;

[0146] Grade 1: Suspicious reaction, with only slight erythema;

[0147] 2: weak positive reaction, erythema, infiltration, edema, and papules may be present;

[0148] 3: strong positive reaction, erythema, infiltration, edema, and papules may be present, and the reaction may extend beyond the test area;

[0149] 4: very strong positive reaction, obvious erythema, severe infiltration, edema, and confluent blisters, and the reaction may extend beyond the test area.

[0150] Test results: the skin reactions of all the subjects were negative.

[0151] The above test results show that the serum provided by the application is mild and non-irritating to the skin, and is safe to use.

[0152] Human efficacy test

[0153] Test samples: serum 1-6 and blank serum.

[0154] Volunteer selection: 210 healthy female subjects (35-55 years old) with facial dry lines, fine lines, and skin elasticity reduction were selected, and the subjects were randomly divided into 7 groups, with 30 people in each group, and the average age of each group was controlled to be as close as possible.

[0155] Test method: the volunteers in each group cleaned their skin with warm water, and then used a skin elasticity tester to measure the skin elasticity parameter R1 of the cheek part of the subjects, and measured three times to take the average value. After the measurement was completed, 3 mL of serum was evenly applied to the face, and the palm was gently massaged until complete absorption, once in the morning and once in the evening, for 8 consecutive weeks. During the test period, no other products of the same type were used. The test samples were serum 1-6 and blank serum, and the volunteers in the same group used the same product. After 8 weeks, the skin elasticity tester was used again to measure the skin elasticity parameter R2 of the same cheek part of the subjects, and measured three times to take the average value. R1 and R2 represent the ratio of the skin rebound amount without negative pressure to the maximum stretching amount of the skin with negative pressure, indicating the degree of recovery of the skin after deformation under negative pressure within a cycle. The closer the test value is to 1, the better the skin elasticity. See Table 3 for details.

[0156] Skin elasticity improvement rate = (R2-R1) / R1 x 100%

[0157] Table 3 Skin elasticity test results

[0158] Sample group Skin elasticity improvement rate / % Serum 1 36.37 Serum 2 33.52 Serum 3 31.69 Serum 4 34.54 Serum 5 17.62 Serum 6 57.62 Blank serum 1.54

[0159] From the results of Table 3, compared with the blank essence liquid, the skin elasticity improvement rate of the essence liquids 1-6 is significantly higher than that of the blank essence liquid, which shows that the composition and the essence liquid provided by the application have a significant effect of improving the skin elasticity, and further proves that the plant extracts in the product of the application can effectively maintain and strengthen the skin elasticity, and ultimately achieve the result of synergistic anti-aging.

[0160] The above-described embodiments are part of the embodiments of the present application, rather than all the embodiments. The detailed description of the embodiments of the present application is not intended to limit the scope of the claimed application, but only represents selected embodiments of the present application. Based on the embodiments in the present application, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative labor fall within the scope of protection of the present application.

Claims

1. A firming anti-wrinkle composition characterized in that, The composition comprises the following mass parts of raw materials: Grifola frondosa extract: 3-9 parts; Dendrobium candidum extract: 1-5 parts; Polygala tenuifolia extract: 0.2-0.8 parts; Klamath bugleweed extract: 0.1-0.5 parts.

2. The firming anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 1, wherein The composition comprises the following mass parts of raw materials: Grifola frondosa extract: 6-9 parts; Dendrobium candidum extract: 3-5 parts; Polygala tenuifolia extract: 0.4-0.8 parts; Klamath bugleweed extract: 0.3-0.5 parts.

3. The firming anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 1, wherein The composition comprises the following mass parts of raw materials: Grifola frondosa extract: 7 parts; Dendrobium candidum extract: 4 parts; Polygala tenuifolia extract: 0.5 parts; Klamath bugleweed extract: 0.4 parts.

4. Use of the firming and anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of claims 1-3 in the preparation of a skin care product having firming and anti-wrinkle efficacy.

5. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that, The dosage form of the skin care product is any one of emulsion, cream, serum, eye cream, skin toner, and mask.

6. An essence having a firming and anti-wrinkle effect, characterized in that, It comprises the following mass percentage components: The firming and anti-wrinkle composition according to any one of claims 1-3: 1-10 wt%; Humectant: 0.01-5 wt%; Emollient: 0.01-2 wt%; Thickening agent: 0.1-1 wt%; Preservative: 0.01-0.5 wt%; Deionized water to 100 wt%.

7. The serum of claim 6, wherein the serum is characterized by, The humectant is at least one of sodium hyaluronate, glycerol, and butylene glycol.

8. The serum of claim 6, wherein the serum is characterized by, The emollient is at least one of squalane, dimethicone, and caprylic / capric triglyceride.

9. The serum of claim 6, wherein, The thickening agent is at least one of sodium polyacryloyldimethyl glutamate and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer.

10. The serum of claim 6, wherein, The preservative is at least one of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.