Composition comprising lipophilic organic screening agent, hydrophilic organic screening agent, in amount of fat phase of between 20% and 70% by weight

By adjusting the fat phase content and the shielding agent ratio in the photoprotection composition, combining hydrophilic and lipophilic organic UV shielding agents and acrylamide-2-methylproteinsulfonic acid monomer copolymers, the instability and sensory experience of the composition under high UV protection is solved, and a stable, refreshing and transparent light protection effect is achieved.

CN120548162APending Publication Date: 2025-08-26LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202380087570.6
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-10-21
Filing Date
2023-10-10
Publication Date
2025-08-26

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

It is difficult for existing light protection compositions to achieve a refreshing, non-greasy, non-stick and transparent sensory experience under high UV protection, and are prone to layering instability.

Method used

Using a fat phase content of 20% to 70%, the ratio of hydrophilic organic UV shielding agent to lipophilic organic UV shielding agent is greater than 0.3, the water dispersible organic UV shielding agent is less than or equal to 3%, and a hydrophilic copolymer containing acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer is added to control the viscosity is less than 500 mPa.s.

Benefits of technology

While achieving high UV protection, it maintains the stability and good sensory experience of the composition, and has a non-greasy, non-stick and non-shiny texture, which is suitable for daily use.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, the amount of the fat phase being between 20% and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, the fat phase being in an amount of between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and the lipophilic organic UV screening agent is greater than 0.3, the amount of the water dispersible organic UV screening agent is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the viscosity of the composition is less than or equal to 500 mPa.s. The invention also relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent, at least one hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent, and at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid # imgabs0 # monomer, the amount of the fatty phase is between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and the amount of the hydrophilic organic screening agent is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
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Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0002] The present invention also relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and the lipophilic organic UV screening agent being greater than 0.3, the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agent being less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the viscosity of the composition being less than or equal to 500 mPa.s.

[0003] The present invention also relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent, at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, and at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. Hydrophilic copolymer of monomers, the amount of fatty phase is between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition and the amount of hydrophilic organic screening agent is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Technical Field

[0004] To date, a wide variety of photoprotective compositions are known for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, from the harmful effects caused by UVA and / or UVB radiation. Most of these compositions contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV screening agents delivered as anti-UV active agents in an oily and / or aqueous phase and are generally provided in an emulsion or gel-type presentation.

[0005] It is also known that in order to achieve high levels of shading efficiency, high levels of shading agents are required.

[0006] However, high levels of UV screening agents do not by themselves make it easy to produce compositions with a stable and pleasing texture.

[0007] Therefore, formulations with high coverage can have unpleasant or even unpleasant sensory aspects that overshadow the freshness and comfort of the formulation. In particular, a difficulty with photoprotective formulations with high protection factors is often to limit or even avoid a strong greasy and sticky feel, and the resulting texture lacks a sense of lightness and has a white appearance during application, so that it is not invisible on the skin.

[0008] Furthermore, the incorporation of high levels of UV screeners can lead to instability problems. Such instabilities can sometimes even lead to phase separation of the emulsion and / or loss of viscosity of the composition, rendering the formulation inefficient or even unusable.

[0009] In order to overcome the above-mentioned undesirable effects, and in particular to obtain a refreshing effect upon application and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous presentations have been considered. However, these aqueous compositions containing UV screeners may have the disadvantage of being sticky and therefore uncomfortable, and are also very runny.

[0010] It has also been proposed to use polymers to structure aqueous gels containing masking agents. However, this solution is unsatisfactory because the structuring polymers generally chosen are not always very resistant to electrolytes and may also reduce the sensory properties of the composition in terms of greasiness.

[0011] In order to overcome the above-mentioned undesirable effects, the use of aqueous compositions containing UV screening agents in combination with other specific compounds has been considered.

[0012] Therefore, the combined use of mineral thickeners of the clay type has been proposed for stabilizing the compositions and optionally reducing the greasy nature of the photoprotective compositions. However, clays can give the compositions a whitening effect, and these compositions then lose their transparent properties.

[0013] It is therefore still difficult to reconcile in one and the same photoprotective composition the opposing technical performance qualities, such as a high level of UV protection (which usually implies a greasy and sticky feel on the skin) and pleasant sensory aspects, especially resulting from a feeling of freshness.

[0014] There remains a need for a photoprotective composition which has a high level of UV protection and which is advantageously transparent on the skin.

[0015] In particular, there remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, which has pleasant sensory properties and which is advantageously light and preferably transparent on the skin.

[0016] Due to the rapid growth of the daily sun protection market, the demand for such sun protection compositions is even greater. The number of hybrid products that provide skin care and SPF 15-20 protection is increasing, but the challenge remains to have higher SPF values, such as greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to 50, with a pleasant sensory experience for daily application.

[0017] Therefore, look for products that have high SPF while maintaining the sensory indicators of skin care: appearance, texture, consistency, sensory aspects.

[0018] In other words, the object of the present invention is to develop a product which has a favourable organoleptic feel, in particular a melting and non-greasy and non-sticky feel, thus allowing high daily light protection.

[0019] There is also a need for a photoprotective composition having a high level of UV protection which is completely stable, ie does not delaminate.

[0020] The incorporation of superabsorbent polymers into compositions comprising UV screening agents in order to reduce greasiness has already been disclosed in EP 2 266 531 B1. However, the sensory aspects of the compositions thus obtained could be improved for everyday use.

[0021] The present invention is particularly directed to meeting these needs. Summary of the Invention

[0022] A subject of the present invention is a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

[0023] a) at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent; and

[0024] b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent;

[0025] The amount of fatty phase is between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0026] Another subject of the present invention is a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

[0027] a) at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent; and

[0028] b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent;

[0029] The amount of fatty phase is between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition;

[0030] The weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and the lipophilic organic UV screening agent is greater than 0.3;

[0031] The amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agent is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0032] The viscosity of the composition is less than or equal to 500 mPa·s.

[0033] Another subject of the present invention is a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent, at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, and at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. Hydrophilic copolymers of monomers,

[0034] the amount of fatty phase is between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and

[0035] The amount of hydrophilic organic screening agent is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0036] To everyone's surprise, the inventors have discovered that the use of one or more hydrophilic organic UV screening agents in combination with one or more lipophilic organic UV screening agents in a photoprotective composition comprising between 20% and 70% by weight of a fatty phase makes it possible to obtain galenical formulations having strong photoprotective power, good cosmetic properties, and in particular a non-greasy, non-sticky and non-shine feel, and nevertheless stable over time.

[0037] In particular, the inventors have found that the use of one or more hydrophilic organic UV screening agents in combination with one or more lipophilic organic UV screening agents, in a photoprotective composition having a viscosity of less than or equal to 500 mPa.s and comprising between 20% and 70% by weight of a fatty phase, the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and the lipophilic organic UV screening agent being greater than 0.3, the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agent being less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, makes it possible to obtain galenical formulations having strong photoprotective properties, good cosmetic properties, in particular a non-greasy, non-sticky and non-shiny feel, and nevertheless stable over time.

[0038] The inventors have also found that the use of one or more compounds comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid in a photoprotective composition The combination of a hydrophilic copolymer of monomers with one or more hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and one or more lipophilic organic UV screening agents, the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents being greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, makes it possible to obtain galenical formulations having strong photoprotection capabilities, good cosmetic properties, and in particular a non-greasy, non-sticky and non-shiny feel, and nevertheless stable over time.

[0039] Advantageously, the use of these compositions makes it possible to obtain stable galenical formulations with a pleasant organoleptic profile for daily use and strong protection against UV rays.

[0040] These photoprotective compositions therefore advantageously make it possible to combine properties that normally antagonize one another.

[0041] According to another of its aspects, a subject of the invention is also the use of a composition such as those defined above for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or the face.

[0042] According to yet another aspect of the invention, another subject of the invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, which method comprises at least applying to said keratin materials a composition such as those previously defined.

[0043] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for limiting skin dullness and / or improving the colour and / or evenness of the skin tone, comprising applying to the surface of a keratin material at least one composition such as those previously defined.

[0044] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating signs of ageing of keratin materials, which method comprises applying to the surface of a keratin material at least one composition such as those defined previously.

[0045] The compositions according to the present invention exhibit good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically after storage at ambient temperature (25°C), 4°C, 45°C or 55°C for one week, one month or two months. Stable compositions generally maintain their comfort and their organoleptic characteristics over time when applied. More specifically, the stability of the composition can be qualitatively evaluated, for example, by the absence of any phase separation phenomenon or the appearance of crystals, or quantitatively evaluated by monitoring changes in parameters such as viscosity or pH.

[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "SPF" means: Sun Protection Factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to get a sunburn with a sunscreen composition and the minimum time without using the product. More specifically, the term "SPF" is defined in the article "A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum," J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0047] SPF (sun protection factor) can be assessed using Spectrophotometry is performed in vitro. The plate is the material to which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates have proven ideal.

[0048] The evaluation of the sun protection factor (SPF) of a composition can also be performed in vivo according to protocol ISO / EN 24444 "Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)" (2010).

[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "PPD" (Persistent Pigmentation): is intended to refer to an index that characterizes protection against UVA radiation. Specifically, "PPD" measures the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA radiation. This method has been used by the Japan Cosmetics Industry Association (JCIA) as the official test procedure for product UVA labeling since 1996 and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetics Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standard for UVA Protection Efficacy, published on November 21, 1995 and effective from January 1, 1996).

[0050] Other features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent upon reading the detailed description that follows.

[0051] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium.The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood here to mean a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.

[0052] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" is understood to mean in particular the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers (such as eyelashes, eyebrows, head and body hair, nails), mucous membranes (such as lips), and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, periocular area, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0053] In the text below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in the range, particularly in the expressions "between" and "ranging from to".

[0054] In addition, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in this specification are equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to", respectively.

[0055] According to the invention, the terms "preventing" or "prevention" are intended to mean reducing the risk of occurrence of a given phenomenon (according to the invention, a sign of ageing of keratin materials) or slowing down the occurrence of this given phenomenon.

[0056] The term "organic UVA screening agent" is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA rays in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; such molecules may also absorb UVB rays in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0057] The term "organic UVB screening agent" is understood to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing UVB radiation only in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0058] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

[0059] The term "emulsion" means any macroscopically homogeneous, kinetically stable composition comprising at least two mutually immiscible phases; one being a dispersed continuous phase and the other being dispersed in the form of droplets within the continuous phase. The two phases are typically kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system, which typically comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0060] A distinction is made between emulsions of the oil-in-water type (called "direct"), consisting of a continuous aqueous disperse phase and a discontinuous oily disperse phase, and emulsions of the water-in-oil type (called "inverse"), consisting of a continuous oily disperse phase and a discontinuous aqueous disperse phase. Multiple emulsions also exist, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0061] UV screening agents

[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent.

[0063] Lipophilic organic UV screener

[0064] The term "organic lipophilic screening agent" is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound for screening against UV radiation, which compound is completely soluble in molecular form or is soluble in colloidal form, for example in the form of micelles, in a liquid fatty phase.

[0065] The lipophilic organic screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic acid compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzylidene malonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoxazolyl compounds, as described in patents EP 669323 and US 2463264; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, as described in patents US 5237071, US 5166355, GB 2303549, DE 19726184 and EP 893119; benzoxazole compounds, as described in patents EP 0832642, EP 1027883, EP 1300137 and DE 10162844; shielding polymers and shielding silicones, such as those described in particular in patent application WO 93 / 04665; dimers based on α-alkylstyrene, such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, such as those described in patent applications EP 0967200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1133980 and EP 133981, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Preferably, the lipophilic organic screening agent is selected from salicylic acid compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.

[0067] As examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents, mention may be made of those indicated below by their INCI names and / or their chemical names.

[0068] Cinnamon compounds:

[0069] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular by DSM Nutritional Products under the trade name MCX Sales,

[0070] Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, marketed by Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan E Sale,

[0071] Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

[0072] Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, especially sold by DSM Nutritional Products under the trade name 1789 sales,

[0073] Salicylic acid compounds:

[0074] Homosalate, marketed by DSM Nutritional Products under the name HMS Sales,

[0075] Ethylhexyl salicylate, sold by Symrise under the name Neo OS sales, β,β-diphenyl acrylate compounds:

[0076] Octocrylene, especially sold by BASF under the trade name N 539T sales,

[0077] Benzophenone compounds:

[0078] Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold by BASF under the trade name M 40 sales,

[0079] Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sold by BASF under the trade name A Plus, or as a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name A Plus B Sales,

[0080] Benzylidene camphor compounds:

[0081] 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, marketed by Merck under the name 6300 sales,

[0082] Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:

[0083] Drometrizole trisiloxane, sold by Noveal under the name XL production,

[0084] Methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

[0085] Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, particularly in solid form, such as that sold by Fairmount Chemical under the trade name MIXXIM Products sold,

[0086] Triazine compounds:

[0087] -3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), which has the INCI name phenylene bis-diphenyl triazine,

[0088] -Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, sold by BASF under the trade name S sales,

[0089] - ethylhexyl triazone, sold in particular by BASF under the trade name T 150 sales,

[0090] -Diethylhexyl butyramido triazone, sold by 3V Sigma under the trade name HEB sales,

[0091] Symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthyl or polyphenyl, as described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, in patent application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or in the literature "Symmetrical triazine derivatives" (IP.COM) IPCOM000031257, Inc. West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004)

[0092] Anthranilic acid compounds:

[0093] Menthyl anthranilate, sold by Symrise under the trade name Neo MA Sales,

[0094] Benzalmalonate compounds:

[0095] Polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functional groups, such as those marketed by the company Hoffmann-La Roche under the trade name Parsol Polysilicone-15 for sale.

[0096] Hydrophilic organic UV screener

[0097] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic organic UV screening agent" is understood to mean a water-soluble organic UV screening agent or a water-dispersible organic UV screening agent.

[0098] The term "water-soluble organic screening agent" is understood to mean any organic screening agent that is capable of dissolving completely in molecular form or in colloidal form, for example in the form of micelles, in the aqueous liquid phase.

[0099] The term "water-dispersible organic screening agent" means any organic screening agent that is capable of forming a homogeneous suspension of particles having a volume average size of less than 100 microns in a liquid aqueous phase. The volume average size is determined by laser diffraction particle size analysis.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one water-soluble organic UV screening agent and at least one water-dispersible organic UV screening agent.

[0101] Among the water-soluble organic UVA screening agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphor)sulfonic acid (INCI name: Terephthalidene dicamphorsulfonic acid), and its various salts, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. Mention may be made in particular of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalidene dicamphorsulfonic acid), such as the one marketed by the company Noveal under the name “ SX” produced,

[0102] These screening agents correspond to the following general formula (I):

[0103] [Chemical Formula 1]

[0104]

[0105] Wherein F represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a group NH(R1)3 + , wherein the groups R1 can be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a group Mn + , Mn + represents a polyvalent metal cation, where n is equal to 2, 3, or 4, Mn + Preferably represents a compound selected from Ca 2+ 、Zn 2+ Mg 2+ 、Ba 2+ 、Al 3+ and Zr 4+ It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (I) above may give rise to "cis-trans" isomers around one or more double bonds and that all isomers fall within the context of the present invention.

[0106] Among the water-soluble organic UVA screening agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two benzazolyl groups carrying sulfonic acid groups, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 669 323.

[0107] These compounds are described and prepared according to the synthesis indicated in patent US Pat. No. 2,463,264 and in patent application EP-A-0,669,323.

[0108] The compounds according to the invention comprising at least two benzoxazolyl groups correspond to the following general formula (II):

[0109] [Chemical Formula 2]

[0110]

[0111] in:

[0112] -Z represents an organic residue with a valence of (1+n) comprising one or more double bonds arranged so that the residue completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzoxazolyls defined within the square brackets so as to form a completely conjugated assembled structure;

[0113] -X' indicates S, O or NR 6 ;

[0114] -R 1 Represents hydrogen atoms, C1 to C 18 Alkyl, C1 to C4 alkoxy, C5 to C 15 Aryl, C2 to C 18 an acyloxy group or a group SO3Y or COOY;

[0115] -Group R 2 、R 3 、R 4 and R 5 can be the same or different, representing a nitro group or a group R 1 ;

[0116] -R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl group or a C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl group;

[0117] -Y represents a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH4, 1 / 2Ca, 1 / 2Mg, 1 / 3Al, or a cation generated by neutralizing a free acid group with an organic nitrogen base;

[0118] -m is 0 or 1;

[0119] -n is a number from 2 to 6;

[0120] -l is a number from 1 to 4;

[0121] - provided that l+n does not exceed the value 6.

[0122] Among these compounds, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate) or its salts, having the structure shown below, are particularly marketed by Symrise under the name Neo AP Sales:

[0123] [Chemical Formula 3]

[0124]

[0125] A preferred water-soluble screening agent capable of absorbing UVA rays is benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalidene Dicamphorsulfonic Acid), such as the product manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by the company Noveal.

[0126] The water-soluble organic UVB screening agents that can be used according to the invention are especially chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic acid compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0127] As examples of water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, mention may be made of phenylbenzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid), in particular marketed by Merck under the trade name Eusolex Sale.

[0128] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble screening agent capable of absorbing both UVA and UVB rays.

[0129] When the water-soluble UV screening agent is of the sulfonic acid type, it is preferably combined with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.

[0130] The term "alkanolamine" means a C2-C8 amine containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group and at least one alcohol, typically a primary alcohol functional group. 10 As suitable alkanolamines, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: tromethamine) and triethanolamine.

[0131] Among the water-dispersible organic screening agents, mention may be made of the following screening agents.

[0132] Benzophenone compounds:

[0133] 1,1′-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007 / 071584; this compound is advantageously used in micronized form (volume average size of 0.02 to 2 μm) and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion, which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization methods described in applications GB-A-2303549 and EP-A-893119.

[0134] Methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

[0135] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol,

[0136] In at least one structure C n H 2n+1 O(C6H 10 O5) x H alkyl polyglycoside surfactant (wherein n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is a unit (C6H 10 05) and in the range of 1.4 to 1.6), in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, such as the aqueous dispersion described in patent GB-A-2303549, in particular sold by BASF under the trade name Products sold by M, or

[0137] At least one polyglycerol mono(C8-C 20 ) alkyl esters, in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, such as the aqueous dispersion described in application WO 2009 / 063392, in particular the product sold under the name Tinosorb WPGL by the company BASF,

[0138] Triazine compounds:

[0139] - Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, in its water-dispersible form, has the INCI name Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, marketed by BASF under the trade name SLiteAqua,

[0140] Symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted by naphthyl or polybiphenyl groups, used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 μm), obtainable, for example, by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2303549 and EP-A-893119, and especially in the form of aqueous dispersions, especially those marketed by BASF under the name 2,4,6-Tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine sold by A2B and included in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985,

[0141] Benzoxazole compounds:

[0142] 2-[4-(1,3-Benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, having CAS number 904-39-2.

[0143] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the amount of the water-dispersible organic UV screening agent is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] According to a first preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one water-dispersible organic UV screening agent in an amount less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] According to a second preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not contain water-dispersible organic UV screening agents.

[0146] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents" is understood to mean that the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents is less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and the lipophilic organic UV screening agent (the weight of the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent divided by the weight of the lipophilic organic UV screening agent) is greater than 0.3.

[0148] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and the lipophilic organic UV screening agent is between 0.35 and 1.

[0149] Inorganic UV screeners

[0150] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one inorganic UV screening agent.

[0151] Inorganic UV screening agents that can be used according to the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV screening agents of the present invention are metal oxide particles having an average primary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 μm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 μm. These are particularly described in Annex VI of EU Regulation No. 1223 / 2009 on cosmetic products, updated on September 22, 2021, but are not limited to this list.

[0152] They may in particular be chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide or mixtures thereof.

[0153] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by Croda, Tayca and Merck.

[0154] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0155] Coated pigments are pigments that have been subjected to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electrical, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids; beeswax; fatty acids; fatty alcohols; anionic surfactants; lecithin; sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids; metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum); polyethylene; silicones; proteins (collagen, elastin); alkanolamines; silicon oxide; metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0156] The coated pigment is more particularly titanium dioxide coated with:

[0157] - Silica hydrate, such as the product MT-100WP from Imperial Chemicals,

[0158] -Silicon dioxide and iron oxide, such as Sunveil, a product from Ikeda Corporation

[0159] -Silica and alumina, such as those from Imperial Chemicals and and Tioveil from Croda TM AQ-N,

[0160] - Alumina, such as those from Ishihara

[0161] - Aluminum oxide and aluminum stearate, such as those from Imperial Chemicals and Solaveil, a product from Croda TM CT100 and Eusolex from Merck

[0162] -Silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as those from Imperial Chemicals

[0163] -aluminum oxide and aluminum laurate,

[0164] - iron oxide and iron stearate,

[0165] - Zinc oxide and zinc stearate,

[0166] - Silica and alumina and treated with silicone, such as products from Imperial Chemicals or MicrotitaniumDioxide

[0167] - silicon dioxide, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with silicone,

[0168] - silicon dioxide and treated with silicone,

[0169] - Alumina and treated with silicone, such as the product from Ishihara

[0170] - triethanolamine,

[0171] - Stearic acid, such as that from Ishihara

[0172] - sodium hexametaphosphate,

[0173] - TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane,

[0174] - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane,

[0175] - anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane,

[0176] - Sold by Croda under the trade name Solaveil TM CT-200 sells TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate and aluminum oxide.

[0177] - Sold by Croda under the trade name Solaveil TM CT-12W sells TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, aluminum oxide, and silicone.

[0178] - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine,

[0179] - Coated with C9-C 15 TiO2 with fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0180] Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal, such as iron, zinc or manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, the doped pigment is in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric / octanoic acid. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also contain one or more dispersants, such as sorbitan esters, such as sorbitan isostearate, or polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of glycerol, such as Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles contains at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of an oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric / caprylic triglyceride in the presence of Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate, having the following INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, or sold by Croda under the trade name Optisol TM Products sold by OTP-1.

[0181] Uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are available, for example, from Imperial Chemical Company under the trade names MT-500B or Or sold under the name Degussa P25 by Evonik.

[0182] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0183] -By BASF those that are sold;

[0184] -By Nanophase Technologies Those sold by Zinc Oxide.

[0185] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0186] -ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane;

[0187] -Solaveil from Croda TM CZ-100, dispersed in benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl Esters (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);

[0188] - Produced by Daito Kasei Co., Ltd. under the name Daitopersion Those sold (in C9-C with dispersant 12 dispersions in alkanes);

[0189] -Shin-Etsu Corporation (Shin-Etsu) Those sold as (ZnO coated with silicone grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclomethicone).

[0190] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are available, for example, from Solvay under the name Those sold by W185.

[0191] Mention may also be made of metal oxides, especially mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including mixtures of equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, and also mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or with alumina, silica and glycerol.

[0192] When the compositions according to the invention comprise inorganic UV screening agents, coated or uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are particularly preferred.

[0193] According to the invention, the composition is free of inorganic screening agents.

[0194] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “free from inorganic UV screening agents” is understood to mean that the amount of inorganic UV screening agents is less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0195] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the total amount of the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent in the composition is greater than or equal to 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0196] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents is between 4 and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0197] According to another particular embodiment of the present invention, the total amount of the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0198] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents is between 5 and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0199] According to a specific embodiment, the total amount of UV screening agents present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV screening agents present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 18% and 25% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

[0200] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "total amount of UV screening agents" means the sum of the concentrations of each UV screening agent present in the composition, in particular lipophilic organic UV screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and inorganic UV screening agents.

[0201] Hydrophilic AMPS copolymer

[0202] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid hydrophilic copolymer.

[0203] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "copolymer" is understood to mean a polymer comprising at least two different monomer units.

[0204] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic polymer" is understood to mean a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer. The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" is understood to mean a polymer that, when introduced into an aqueous phase at a concentration by weight equal to 1% at 25° C., makes it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution having a maximum transmittance value of at least 60% and preferably at least 70% through a sample 1 cm thick at a wavelength equal to 500 nm.

[0205] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymer comprising at least 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers in free form or in a form partially or completely neutralized by Inorganic bases (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia) or organic bases (such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, aminomethylpropylene glycol, N-methylglucamine), basic amino acids (such as arginine and lysine), and also mixtures of these compounds.

[0206] They are preferably completely or almost completely neutralized, ie at least 90% neutralized.

[0207] According to the present invention The copolymers may be cross-linked or non-cross-linked.

[0208] The term "crosslinked polymer" is intended to mean a non-linear copolymer in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, resulting in a chemical gel.

[0209] When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agent may be chosen from the polyethylenically unsaturated compounds usually used for crosslinking polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.

[0210] As crosslinking agents, mention may be made of, for example, divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, diallyl urea, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or allyl ethers or vinyl ethers of other polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0211] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[0212] According to the present invention, the product is derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid ( ) preferably corresponds to the following general formula:

[0213] [Chemical Formula 4]

[0214]

[0215] where X + represents a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, and R1 preferably represents a hydrogen atom.

[0216] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer according to the present invention is partially or completely salified in the form of an ammonium salt.

[0217] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer according to the present invention is fully salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt.

[0218] Suitable for use in the present invention The polymers are water soluble or water dispersible. In this case, they are made of and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if the copolymer is crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents as defined above. When the copolymer comprises hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers may or may not contain fatty chains.

[0219] According to the first specific embodiment, The copolymers are obtained with one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if the copolymer is crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents (such as those defined above), the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising fatty chains and preferably being present in minor amounts.

[0220] According to the second specific embodiment, The copolymer is obtained from one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one fatty chain and one or more crosslinking agents, if the copolymer is crosslinked, such as those defined above.

[0221] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" is understood to mean any hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

[0222] The water-soluble or water-dispersible The copolymer contains a water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomer, a hydrophobic monomer or a mixture thereof.

[0223] The water-soluble comonomer can be ionic or nonionic. According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble comonomer is nonionic.

[0224] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds and their salts:

[0225] -styrenesulfonic acid,

[0226] - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,

[0227] - vinylphosphonic acid,

[0228] -Maleic acid,

[0229] -itaconic acid,

[0230] -crotonic acid,

[0231] - a water-soluble vinyl monomer of the formula:

[0232] [Chemical Formula 5]

[0233]

[0234] in:

[0235] -R1 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7;

[0236] -X1 is selected from:

[0237] -- an alkyl oxide of the OR2 type, wherein R2 is a alkyl oxide containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which is replaced by at least one sulfonic acid group (-SO3 - ) and / or sulfate (-SO4 - ) and / or phosphate groups (-PO4 2- ) group-substituted linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group.

[0238] Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers, mention may be made in particular of:

[0239] -N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

[0240] -N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

[0241] -maleic anhydride,

[0242] -ethyleneamine,

[0243] - N-vinyl lactams comprising a cycloalkyl group containing 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinyl pyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinyl caprolactam,

[0244] - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,

[0245] - a water-soluble vinyl monomer of the formula:

[0246] [Chemical Formula 6]

[0247]

[0248] in:

[0249] -R3 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7;

[0250] -X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the -OR4 type, wherein R4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted by: a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (-OH) group; an ether.

[0251] Mention may be made, for example, of glycerol (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and (meth)acrylic acid esters of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycols.

[0252] Among the hydrophobic comonomers without aliphatic chains, mention may be made, for example, of:

[0253] - styrene and its derivatives, such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;

[0254] - vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3;

[0255] - vinyl ethers of the formula CH2=CHOR, in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0256] - acrylonitrile;

[0257] -caprolactone;

[0258] - Vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;

[0259] - siloxane derivatives which, after polymerization, give rise to siloxane polymers, such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and siloxane methacrylamide;

[0260] - a hydrophobic vinyl monomer of the formula:

[0261] [Chemical Formula 7]

[0262]

[0263] in:

[0264] -R4 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7;

[0265] -X3 is selected from:

[0266] - Alkyl oxides of the OR5 type, wherein R5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0267] Mention may be made, by way of example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

[0268] The water-soluble or water-dispersible The copolymer preferably has a molar mass in the range from 50,000 g / mol to 100,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 100,000,000 g / mol and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mol to 70,000,000 g / mol.

[0269] As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

[0270] - Copolymers with vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as those used in the Aristoflex® manufactured by Clariant. (CTFA name: ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer), but it is neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

[0271] - Copolymers with hydroxyethyl acrylate, e.g. / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as those used in the pharmaceuticals marketed by SEPPIC under the name Simulgel (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate 60), or as sold under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methylpropanesulfonate / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 from Seppic (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer).

[0272] As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention, mention may be made of Copolymer with hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0273] Among the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may also be made of copolymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid ( ) monomer, at least one monomer having a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not containing any hydrophobic group.

[0274] Preferably, when the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymer comprises at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid ( ) monomer, at least one monomer having a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not containing any hydrophobic group, the hydrophobic group is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based fatty acid chain containing 6 to 50 carbon atoms.

[0275] The copolymer may be cross-linked in the presence of a cross-linking agent.

[0276] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the AMPS copolymer is cross-linked.

[0277] Preferably, The copolymers are crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, and even more preferably they are crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0278] The copolymer may also comprise at least one monomer carrying a hydrophobic group, preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0279] The monomers carrying a hydrophobic group are preferably selected from acrylates or acrylamides of the following formula:

[0280] [Chemical Formula 8]

[0281]

[0282] wherein R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group; Y represents O or NH; R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 50 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms; and x represents a number ranging from 0 to 100.

[0283] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in Formula 8, Y represents an oxygen atom.

[0284] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in Formula 8, the group R1 represents a methyl group.

[0285] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.

[0286] According to one embodiment of the present invention, in Formula 8, the group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0287] According to an even more preferred embodiment of the present invention, in formula 8, Y represents an oxygen atom, the group R1 represents a methyl group, the group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.

[0288] According to one embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic monomer of formula 8 is tetraethoxylated (4EO) lauryl methacrylate, corresponding to a compound of formula 8 in which the group Y represents O, the group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.

[0289] Preferably, the monomer having a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

[0290] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, The copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula 8, in which x is equal to 0, Y represents an oxygen atom, the group R1 represents a methyl group, and the group R2 represents an alkyl group containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0291] In this embodiment, the monomer having a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.

[0292] According to a specific embodiment, The copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 8 (wherein x is equal to 0, Y preferably represents an oxygen atom, group R1 represents a methyl group, and group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms), and at least one monomer of formula 8 (wherein Y represents an oxygen atom, group R1 represents a methyl group, group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer from 3 to 25, and x is preferably equal to 4).

[0293] Preferably, The copolymer contains lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate as monomers having a hydrophobic group.

[0294] The copolymer also comprises at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not contain any hydrophobic groups and preferably corresponds to the following general formula:

[0295] [Chemical Formula 9]

[0296]

[0297] wherein R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 linear or branched alkyl group, preferably R1 represents a hydrogen atom, R2 represents a C1-C4 linear or branched alkyl group, and R3 represents a C1-C4 linear or branched alkyl group, preferably R2 and R3 represent a methyl group.

[0298] The ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising any hydrophobic group is selected from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acid and its esters ((meth)acrylates) such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, N-(C1-C4)alkylacrylamides and N,N-di(C1-C4)alkylacrylamides such as N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

[0299] Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising any hydrophobic groups is N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

[0300] Preferably, The copolymer is chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (preferably fully salified), N,N-dimethylacrylamide, tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate (preferably crosslinked), such as, for example, the copolymer sold under the name Sepimax Zen by the company Seppic and with the INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6.

[0301] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one and copolymers of hydroxyethyl acrylate, e.g. / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as sold by Seppic under the name Simulgel The copolymers used in commercial products sold under the name sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60) are also used, for example, in products sold under the name sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer) from Seppic.

[0302] above The copolymer may be present in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0303] filler

[0304] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one filler selected from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and N-acylamino acid powder.

[0305] The term "filler" is understood to mean mineral or synthetic particles, colourless or white and of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced.

[0306] The fillers used in the present invention may be characterized by their specific surface area per unit mass or per unit volume, their size expressed as volume mean diameter D(4,3), their untapped density and / or their oil absorption capacity.

[0307] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the nitrogen adsorption method known as the BET (Bruno-Emmett-Teller) method, which is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938, and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles under consideration.

[0308] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the following relationship: S V =S W ×ρ, where ρ is expressed in g / cm 3 represents the compacted density, and S W m 2The specific surface area per unit weight expressed in / g is as defined above.

[0309] In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following scheme (called tap density scheme):

[0310] 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 tapping movements (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); and the final volume Vf of the tapped powder is then measured directly on the cylinder. The tapped density is determined from the ratio w / Vf, which in the case in question is 40 / Vf (Vf is expressed in cm 3 denoted by and w is denoted by g).

[0311] The oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of granules in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

[0312] It is measured according to the "wet point" method or the method for determining the oil absorption of powders described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder, as determined by measuring the wet point:

[0313] Place a quantity (m = 2 g) of powder on a glass plate and then add oil (isononyl isononanoate) dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix with a spatula and continue adding oil until a lump of oil and powder forms. From this point on, add the oil one drop at a time and then grind the mixture with a spatula. Stop adding oil when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without breaking or forming lumps. Then record the volume of oil used (Vs) (in ml).

[0314] The oil absorption corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0315] The size of the filler can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory is accurate for isotropic particles and allows the determination of an "effective" particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is particularly described in the following publication: Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0316] According to a specific embodiment, the filler that can be used in the present invention has an oil absorption capacity of 0.25 g / g to 3.5 g / g, preferably 0.93 g / g to 2.5 g / g, or even 1.25 g / g to 2.5 g / g.

[0317] According to one particular embodiment, the fillers that can be used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume mean diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.1 μm to 40 μm, preferably from 0.5 μm to 20 μm and even more preferably from 1 μm to 16 μm.

[0318] According to a specific embodiment, the filler used in the present invention has a range of 0.2 g / cm 3 to 2.2g / cm 3 Untapped density.

[0319] According to one embodiment, they have a range of 30m 2 / g to 1000m 2 / g and more particularly 150m 2 / g to 800m 2 / g specific surface area.

[0320] In the present patent application, the term "spherical particles" means particles in the form of spheres or substantially spheres which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention even at the melting point of the medium (about 100°C).

[0321] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the spherical porous silica particles are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as volume mean diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.5 to 30 μm, more particularly from 1 to 20 μm and preferably from 1 to 16 μm.

[0322] As examples of porous silica microspheres, the following commercial products can be used: silica beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB 700, preferably SB 300, from Miyoshi Kasei; the Sunsphere series from Asahi Glass AGC Si-Tech, in particular Sunsphere H-51 or Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from Fuji Silysia; Silica Pearl and the Satinier series from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more in particular Satinier M13 and M16, silica MSS-500 and more particularly MSS-500-20N from Kobo, and also Silica Shells from Kobo.

[0323] According to a particular embodiment, the spherical cellulose particles that can be used in the context of the present invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as volume mean diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.1 to 35 μm, preferably from 1 to 20 μm and more particularly from 4 to 15 μm.

[0324] Examples of spherical cellulose microparticles that may especially be mentioned include the solid cellulose beads sold under the names Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF by Daito Kasei Kogyo.

[0325] The N-acylamino acid may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.

[0326] According to a specific embodiment, the N-acylamino acid comprises an acyl group having 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, it is a lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acylamino acid powder can be a lauroyl lysine powder, such as the product sold under the name Amihope LL by Ajinomoto or the product sold under the name Corum 5105S by Corum.

[0327] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the filler selected from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and N-acylamino acid powder has a non-uniform particle size, ie a large size distribution for a given size expressed as a volume mean diameter.

[0328] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least three fillers selected from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and N-acylamino acid powder.

[0329] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least three fillers different from each other, wherein the first is chosen from spherical porous silica particles, in particular spherical porous silica microparticles, the second is chosen from spherical cellulose particles, and the third is chosen from N-acylamino acid powders.

[0330] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of fillers selected from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and N-acylamino acid powder is between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. According to another preferred embodiment, the weight ratio (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylamino acid powder) / (spherical porous silica particles) is between 0.25 and 1.

[0331] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one additional filler in addition to the spherical porous silica particles, the spherical cellulose particles and the N-acylamino acid powder.

[0332] Fat phase

[0333] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase.

[0334] The fatty phase may be composed of all fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field; it may in particular comprise at least one oil. It may also comprise at least one pasty compound and / or at least one wax and / or at least one fatty alcohol. The fatty phase also comprises the lipophilic screening agent present in the composition according to the invention.

[0335] The term "oil" is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0336] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is capable of evaporating in less than one hour on contact with the skin or keratin fibers at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the present invention are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3To 300 mmHg), particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0337] The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and that has in particular a viscosity of less than 10 -3 Oil with a vapor pressure of mmHg (0.13Pa).

[0338] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means any oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0339] The term "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0340] As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of:

[0341] (i) hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides, which are usually triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, wherein the fatty acids may have carbon atoms ranging from C4 to C 24 of different chain lengths, which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are especially wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kojic acid oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel under the name Miglyol and those that are sold;

[0342] (ii) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0343] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petroleum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;

[0344] (iv) synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula RCOOR', in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, with the proviso that R + R' ≥ 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C benzoate, 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters (such as those sold by Witco under the trade name Finsolv or Witconol or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name Tegosoft Products sold by ISP), 2-ethylphenyl benzoate (such as X-Tend esters of hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citric or tartaric acid esters, such as di(straight-chain C 12 -C 13 alkyl) tartaric acid esters, such as those manufactured by EnichemAugustaIndustriale under the name Cosmacol Those sold, and there are two (straight chain C 14 -C 15 alkyl) tartaric acid esters, such as those sold by the same company under the name Cosmacol Those sold; acetate;

[0345] (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature and have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0346] (vi)C 12 -C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic, linoleic, or linolenic acid;

[0347] (vii) Carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as that sold by Cognis under the name Cetiol Products sold;

[0348] and mixtures thereof.

[0349] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, triglycerides and in particular caprylic / capric triglyceride, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C benzoate, 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0350] As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbons containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and being especially branched C8-C 16 Alkane-based hydrocarbon oils, such as C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C 16 Esters, isohexyl pivalate and mixtures thereof.

[0351] Mention may also be made of the alkanes (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon) described in the patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 or WO 2008 / 155059 of the company Corning. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil. Mention may also be made of n-undecane (C 2-1-1-decane) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the application WO 2008 / 155059 of the company Corning. 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 Mention may also be made of the mixtures of Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 12-97 manufactured by Sasol. Sales of n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), and mixtures thereof.

[0352] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils may also be used, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those marketed by Shell under the name Shell According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0353] The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, these groups being pendant and / or at the end of the polysiloxane chain and each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated polysiloxanes such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxane or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0354] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity of ≤8 centistokes (8×10 -6 m 2 / s) and in particular those containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0355] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkyl trisiloxane oils such as:

[0356] 3-Butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

[0357] 3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

[0358] 3-Ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.

[0359] Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof may also be used.

[0360] The fatty phase according to the invention may additionally comprise other fatty substances which are mixed with the oil or dissolved in the oil.

[0361] Another fatty substance that may be present in the oil phase may be, for example:

[0362] - fatty acids chosen from fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

[0363] - gums chosen from silicone gums (dimethicone);

[0364] - pasty compounds, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of glycerol oligomers, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives;

[0365] - and mixtures thereof.

[0366] The entire fatty phase (comprising all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents) represents from 20% to 70% by weight and preferably from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0367] Water phase

[0368] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0369] The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.

[0370] The aqueous phase suitable for use in the invention may comprise, for example, water chosen from natural spring waters, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or water or toilet water from Vichy.

[0371] Suitable water-soluble or water-miscible solvents for use in the present invention include, in addition to the short-chain alcohols defined above, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0372] According to one particular form of the invention, the entire aqueous phase (including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase) represents from 30% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0373] Cosmetic active ingredients

[0374] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetically active agent.

[0375] As examples of cosmetic active agents, mention may be made of moisturizers, such as protein hydrolyzates, polyglycerol-3; natural extracts; vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives (especially esters) of said vitamins, and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, and mixtures thereof; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacterial extracts; enzymes; toning agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0376] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one humectant, preferably polyglyceryl-3.

[0377] A person skilled in the art can easily adjust the amount of cosmetic active ingredient according to the final use of the composition according to the invention.

[0378] Additional adjuvants or additives

[0379] The compositions of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents (e.g., tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (e.g., polysaccharides), pH adjusters (e.g., triethanolamine, citric acid, and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsilsesquioxane), and mixtures thereof.

[0380] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of further auxiliaries or additives in such a way that the end use of the composition according to the invention is not deleterious.

[0381] Presentation form

[0382] According to a particular embodiment, the viscosity of the composition according to the invention at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure is less than or equal to 500 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 300 mPa.s.

[0383] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the viscosity is greater than or equal to 20 mPa·s, preferably greater than or equal to 100 mPa·s.

[0384] Viscosity can be measured at 25°C using a Rheomat® from Maple Instruments. The rheometer was used to measure the viscosity after 10 minutes at a rotation speed of 200 rpm using a TV 2 spindle. The viscosity values ​​were given in Pa·s.

[0385] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can in particular be in the form of simple or complex emulsions (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W), such as creams, lotions or cream-gels.

[0386] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It can particularly be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0387] In the case where the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, the emulsification methods that can be used are of the paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and HPH types.

[0388] In order to obtain stable emulsions with low polymer content (oil / polymer ratio > 25), it is possible to prepare the dispersion in the concentrated phase and then dilute the dispersion with the remaining aqueous phase.

[0389] Stable dispersions with droplet sizes down to 100 nm can also be obtained via HPH (between 50 and 800 bar).

[0390] The emulsion may generally contain at least one emulsifier selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifier is appropriately selected depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

[0391] As examples of W / O nonionic emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of sorbitan, glycerol, alkyl esters or ethers of polyols or sugars; or silicone surfactants, for example dimethicone copolyols, such as those marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 5225 Mixtures of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyols sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as lauryl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid, or cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as AbilEM sold by Goldschmidt. Products sold by Gauschmidt under the name Abil WE A mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate is sold. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto, which may advantageously be selected from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

[0392] Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, especially sorbitan, glycerol, alkyl esters or ethers of polyols or sugars.

[0393] Polyol alkyl esters that may be mentioned in particular include polyethylene glycol esters, for example PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as that marketed by Imperial Chemical Industries (ICI) under the name Arlacel Products sold.

[0394] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as is marketed under the name Isolan GI by the company Goschmidt. Products sold; Sorbitan isostearate, such as by Imperial Chemical Industries (ICI) under the name Arlacel Products sold; Sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as by Imperial Chemical Industries under the name Arlacel Products sold, and mixtures thereof.

[0395] For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, as nonionic emulsifying surfactants, for example, of polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and glycerol, such as the ester of polyethylene glycol and stearic acid sold under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by Croda; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (especially polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with esters of fatty acids and glycerol, such as the PEG-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate mixture, for example sold under the name Arlacel by Imperial Chemical Industries. 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohols and sugars, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, for example, by Henkel under the corresponding name Plantaren and Plantaren Sales: Cetearyl Glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, for example by the company Seppic under the name Montanov Sold by the company TegoSchmidt under the name Tegocare Sold and marketed by Henkel under the name Emulgade and arachidyl glucoside, for example, in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, marketed by Sepiq under the name Montanov According to one embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above and the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in document WO-A-92 / 06778.

[0396] As anionic surfactants enabling the production of O / W emulsions, mention may be made of the group consisting of 30 , preferably C8-C 24 Surfactants based on hydrocarbon chain-modified amino acids and their salts, in particular acylglutamic acids (INCI name: Acyl Glutamate) or their salts (acylglutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or its salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0397] Such compounds are sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft, and in particular under the reference numbers Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively by Cognis under the name Eumulgin SG.

[0398] As anionic surfactants enabling the production of O / W emulsions, mention may also be made of hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified with hydrophobic chains, such as alkyl carbamate groups, in particular C8-C8 carbamates. 18 Alkyl ester groups, and more particularly lauryl carbamate groups.

[0399] Examples of these compounds that may especially be mentioned include the product sold under the name Inutec SL1 by the company Creachem.

[0400] When the composition is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a nonionic vesicle dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol., 13, 238 (1965), FR 2315991 and FR 2416008).

[0401] The compositions according to the invention find use in numerous treatments, especially cosmetic treatments of the skin, lips and hair (including the scalp), in particular for protecting and / or caring for the skin, lips and / or hair and / or for making up the skin and / or lips.

[0402] Another subject of the present invention consists of the use of a composition according to the invention as defined above for the production of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, in particular care products, sun protection products and make-up products.

[0403] Examples

[0404] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the present invention. However, these examples enable support of specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the present invention.

[0405] In the examples, the amount of an ingredient present in the composition is given as a % by weight of the starting material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0406] Sensory evaluation

[0407] Cosmetic properties were evaluated by four individuals trained in describing the care products and in a tactile analysis (Playtime & Touch) protocol. The panel conducted a sensory evaluation of the care products as follows: The products were packaged in jars and tested on SkinFX artificial skin. Samples were presented to each panelist simultaneously during the same session. The experts placed a drop of product (0.05 ml) on the back of their hand and rubbed it in for 15 seconds. After another 15 seconds, the application was continued for another 15 seconds.

[0408] Descriptors for smoothness, stickiness, greasiness (amount of film former on the fingers) and gloss were evaluated after a total of 2 minutes 45 seconds.

[0409] These descriptors were rated on a scale of 1 to 5: 1 = none, 2 = slight, 3 = moderate, 4 = marked, 5 = intense, and the symbols reflect the expert consensus. For the smoothness and glossiness descriptors, bare skin was rated 3.

[0410] Stability studies

[0411] The stability of the compositions was evaluated macroscopically (appearance, color, odor, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 55°C for 1 week and at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C for 1 month.

[0412] Macrostability was assessed visually, and microstability was assessed using white light optical microscopy.

[0413] Protocol for evaluating masking efficacy

[0414] In vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) was determined according to the "in vitro" method described by BL Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133, (1989). The measurements were performed using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphere.

[0415] The in vitro UVA protection factors (PPDs) of sunscreen products against UVA radiation are calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modeling according to protocol ISO 24443:2012 (Fr).

[0416] Each composition was deposited in a uniform and flat manner at 1 mg / cm 2 The ratio of 1:1 was applied to six coarse plates of PMMA. Each composition was applied to three plates called HD6 (molded particle board) and three plates called SB6 (sandy particle board) using an automated robot with flat and even movements. The plates were weighed before and after application. Once the application was completed on the six plates, the plates were left to stand in the dark at 25°C in a Thermo-Masters for 30 minutes. The measurements were taken using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphere. Nine measurements were taken for each plate and the results were analyzed using an Excel spreadsheet that provided the SPF and PPD values ​​of the measured compositions.

[0417] Example 1 - Composition 1

[0418] The following compositions were prepared.

[0419] [Table 1]

[0420]

[0421]

[0422] Method for preparing composition 1

[0423] Phase A was prepared as follows:

[0424] The starting materials of phases A1 and A2 are introduced into a beaker and heated to 65° C. with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.

[0425] Introduce the starting materials of phase A3. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

[0426] Phase B was prepared as follows:

[0427] The starting materials of phase B1 are introduced into a beaker and heated to 75° C. with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.

[0428] Turn off heating and add the starting materials of phase B2 and then phase B3 under stirring. Disperse until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

[0429] Phase A was slowly poured into phase B at 65°C with stirring using a rotor-stator and scraper.

[0430] Disperse until a conformable emulsion is obtained.

[0431] Dilute by introducing phase C with stirring.

[0432] Disperse with rotor-stator and scraper stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while cooling is initiated.

[0433] Continue cooling with stirring only with a spatula.

[0434] At a temperature < 30°C, the starting materials of Phase D and Phase E are added.

[0435] Disperse with rotor-stator and scraper stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing to cool.

[0436] If necessary, continue cooling with stirring only with a spatula.

[0437] Phase F was introduced.

[0438] Disperse with stirring only with a spatula until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while keeping the temperature constant.

[0439] The results obtained

[0440] The sensory analysis results are as follows:

[0441] [Table 2]

[0442] Composition 1 stickiness 1 / 5 (non-sticky) Greasiness 1 / 5 (non-greasy) Smoothness 3 / 5 (like bare skin) luster 3.5 / 5 (slightly more radiant than bare skin)

[0443] Composition 1 according to the invention has good cosmetic qualities; it is notably non-sticky and non-greasy.

[0444] Furthermore, it provides good sun protection with an SPF of 50 and a PPD of 17.

[0445] Examples 2 to 5 - Effect of the weight ratio between hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and lipophilic organic UV screening agent

[0446] The following compositions were prepared.

[0447] [Table 3]

[0448]

[0449]

[0450]

[0451] [Table 4]

[0452]

[0453]

[0454]

[0455] Method for preparing the composition

[0456] Phase A was prepared as follows:

[0457] Add the starting materials of phases A1 and A2 and heat to 65° C. with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.

[0458] Introduce the starting materials of phase A3. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

[0459] Phase B was prepared as follows:

[0460] The starting materials of phase B1 are introduced into a beaker and heated to 75° C. with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.

[0461] Turn off heating and add the starting materials of phase B2 and then phase B3 under stirring. Disperse until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

[0462] Phase A was slowly poured into phase B at 65°C with stirring using a rotor-stator and scraper.

[0463] Disperse until a conformable emulsion is obtained.

[0464] Dilute by introducing phase C with stirring.

[0465] Disperse with rotor-stator and scraper stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while cooling is initiated.

[0466] Continue cooling with stirring only with a spatula.

[0467] At a temperature < 30°C, the starting materials of Phase D and Phase E are added.

[0468] Disperse with rotor-stator and scraper stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing to cool.

[0469] If necessary, continue cooling with stirring only with a spatula.

[0470] Phase F was introduced.

[0471] Disperse with stirring only with a spatula until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while keeping the temperature constant.

[0472] The results obtained

[0473] The stability results are as follows:

[0474] [Table 5]

[0475]

[0476] [Table 6]

[0477]

[0478]

[0479] These results show that, for equivalent stability and equivalent sun protection, compositions having a weight ratio between hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and lipophilic organic UV screening agent between 0.3 and 1 (see compositions 2 and 3) are less tacky than compositions having a weight ratio between hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and lipophilic organic UV screening agent less than 0.3 (see composition 4) or greater than 1 (see composition 5).

[0480] Examples 6 to 10 - Effect of the Presence of Polymer on Stability

[0481] The following compositions were prepared.

[0482] [Table 7]

[0483]

[0484]

[0485]

[0486] [Table 8]

[0487]

[0488]

[0489]

[0490] Method for preparing the composition

[0491] Phase A was prepared as follows:

[0492] Add the starting materials of phase A1 and heat to 65° C. with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.

[0493] Introduce the starting materials of phase A2. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

[0494] Phase B was prepared as follows:

[0495] The starting materials of phase B1 are introduced into a beaker and heated to 75° C. with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.

[0496] Turn off heating and add the starting materials of phase B2 and then phase B3 under stirring. Disperse until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

[0497] Phase A was slowly poured into phase B at 65°C with stirring using a rotor-stator and scraper.

[0498] Disperse until a conformable emulsion is obtained.

[0499] Dilute by introducing phase C with stirring.

[0500] Disperse with rotor-stator and scraper stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while cooling is initiated.

[0501] Continue cooling with stirring only with a spatula.

[0502] At a temperature < 30°C, add phase D.

[0503] Disperse with rotor-stator and scraper stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing to cool.

[0504] If necessary, continue cooling with stirring only with a spatula.

[0505] Phase E was introduced.

[0506] Disperse with stirring only with a spatula until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while keeping the temperature constant.

[0507] The results obtained

[0508] The stability results are as follows:

[0509] [Table 9]

[0510]

[0511]

[0512] [Table 10]

[0513]

[0514] These results indicate that when the compositions comprise AMPS copolymers, particularly Sepinov EMT10 from Seppic (see composition 6), Sepimax Zen from Seppic (see composition 7), and Sepimax C from Seppic (see composition 8), the compositions have better stability over time than when the compositions comprise AMPS homopolymers such as Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant (see composition 9) or acrylic acid polymers such as Carbopol 980 polymer from Lubrizol (see composition 10).

[0515] Examples 11 to 15 - Effect of the presence of fillers on sensory experience

[0516] The following compositions were prepared.

[0517] [Table 11]

[0518]

[0519]

[0520]

[0521] [Table 12]

[0522]

[0523]

[0524]

[0525]

[0526] Method for preparing the composition

[0527] Phase A was prepared as follows:

[0528] Add the starting materials of phase A1 and phase A2 and heat to 65° C. with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.

[0529] Introduce the starting materials of phase A3. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

[0530] Phase B was prepared as follows:

[0531] The starting materials of phase B1 are introduced into a beaker and heated to 75° C. with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.

[0532] Turn off heating and add the starting materials of phase B2 and then phase B3 under stirring. Disperse until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

[0533] Phase A was slowly poured into phase B at 65°C with stirring using a rotor-stator and scraper.

[0534] Disperse until a conformable emulsion is obtained.

[0535] Dilute by introducing phase C with stirring.

[0536] Disperse with rotor-stator and scraper stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while cooling is initiated.

[0537] Continue cooling with stirring only with a spatula.

[0538] At a temperature < 30°C, the starting materials of Phase D and Phase E are added.

[0539] Disperse with rotor-stator and scraper stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing to cool.

[0540] If necessary, continue cooling with stirring only with a spatula.

[0541] Phase F was introduced.

[0542] Disperse with stirring only with a spatula until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while keeping the temperature constant.

[0543] The results obtained

[0544] The stability results are as follows:

[0545] [Table 13]

[0546]

[0547] [Table 14]

[0548]

[0549] These results indicate that, for equivalent sensory experience in terms of greasiness, equivalent stability and equivalent sun protection, the composition has the best sensory experience with respect to greasiness and glossiness when it comprises a total amount of filler between 1% and 4% by weight and a (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylamino acid powder) / (spherical porous silica particles) weight ratio between 0.25 and 1 (see compositions 11, 14 and 15).

Claims

1. A composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: a) at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent; and b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent; The amount of fatty phase is between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein: The weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and the lipophilic organic UV screening agent is greater than 0.3; the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agent is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and The viscosity of the composition is less than or equal to 500 mPa·s.

3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising: c) at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer; and The amount of hydrophilic organic screening agent is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3, wherein The weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and the lipophilic organic UV screening agent is greater than 0.

3.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein The hydrophilic organic UV screening agent is selected from water-soluble organic UV screening agents and water-dispersible organic UV screening agents.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV screening agent and at least one water-dispersible organic UV screening agent.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 6, wherein The amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agent is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1, 2 and 4 to 7, wherein The total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents is greater than or equal to 4% by weight, preferably 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 8, wherein The viscosity of the composition is less than or equal to 500 Pa.S.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein The lipophilic organic UV screening agent is selected from cinnamon compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic acid compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzyl camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; Benzotriazole compounds; Benzylidene malonate compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoxazolyl compounds; Methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; shielding polymers and shielding silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; and mixtures thereof; preferably salicylic acid compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein The water-soluble UV screening agent is selected from benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid); 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid); and salts thereof.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein The water-dispersible organic UV screening agent is selected from at least one having structure C n H 2n+1 O(C6H 10 O5) x In the case of an alkyl polyglycoside surfactant of H, wherein n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is a unit (C6H 10 05) and in the range of 1.4 to 1.6, in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm; at least one polyglycerol mono(C8-C8) in the presence of glycerol having a degree of polymerization of at least 5 20 ) alkyl esters, in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, which is in its water-dispersible form and has the INCI name Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer; symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthyl or polybiphenyl groups, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine, used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 μm), and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein The total amount of UV screening agents is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein The weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent and the lipophilic organic UV screening agent is between 0.35 and 1.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1, 2 and 4 to 14, comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid hydrophilic copolymer.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 3 and 15, wherein The AMPS copolymer is selected from the group consisting of and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if the copolymer is crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents.

17. The composition according to claim 16, wherein The hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomer is nonionic.

18. The composition according to any one of claims 16 and 17, wherein The hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprises a fatty chain.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising at least one copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate.

20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, comprising at least one copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, preferably fully salified, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate, said copolymer preferably being crosslinked.

21. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20 in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

22. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, comprising at least three fillers different from one another, wherein a first one is chosen from spherical porous silica particles, in particular spherical porous silica microparticles, wherein a second one is chosen from spherical cellulose particles, and wherein a third one is chosen from N-acylamino acid powders.

23. The composition according to claim 22, wherein The total amount of fillers selected from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and N-acylamino acid powder is between 1 and 4% by weight, preferably between 2 and 4% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

24. The composition according to any one of claims 22 and 23, wherein The weight ratio of (spherical cellulose particles+N-acylamino acid powder) / (spherical porous silica particles) is between 0.25 and 1.

25. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, said method comprising applying to the surface of said keratin materials at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24.

Citation Information

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