Cosmetic composition
By using the nano-size methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol aqueous dispersion stabilized by C8-10 alkyl polyglucoside, the stability of inorganic micropigments in the cosmetic composition is solved, and an aesthetically attractive cosmetic composition is achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202511000946.2
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2016-10-11
- Filing Date
- 2017-10-09
- Publication Date
- 2025-09-02
AI Technical Summary
The combination of nano-sized methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol in existing cosmetic compositions and inorganic micropigments results in the composition having an undesirable "soft cheese"-like appearance, which makes it difficult to stably combine with inorganic micropigments.
The aqueous dispersion of nano-sized methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol is stabilized using C8-10 alkyl polyglucoside, the C12-16 alkyl polyglucoside is omitted, and the C8-10 alkyl polyglucoside and inorganic micropigments are added to form an aesthetically attractive cosmetic composition.
The stability of nano-sized organic insoluble UV absorbers and inorganic micropigments in cosmetic compositions is achieved, undesirable appearance problems are avoided, and an aesthetically attractive cosmetic product is provided.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] This application is a divisional application of Chinese invention patent application No. 201780062396.4 (PCT International Application No. PCT / EP2017 / 075598), filed on October 9, 2017, and entitled “Cosmetic Composition”. Technical Field
[0002] The present invention relates to a method for preparing a UV filter comprising water, an organic insoluble UV filter of nanometer size and C 8-10 An aqueous dispersion of an alkyl polyglucoside, and a cosmetic composition comprising said dispersion in combination with at least one inorganic micropigment, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is substantially free of any C 12-16 Alkyl polyglucoside. Background Art
[0003] M is an organic UV filter that uses fine particle technology and acts as a micropigment and UV absorber. It is sold as a dispersion of methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in water, where the particles are composed of C8 to C 16 Alkyl polyglucoside composition is stabilized by decyl glucoside. M is widely used not only in sunscreens but also in day care and skin lightening products. A disadvantage of M is that its combination with inorganic micropigments in cosmetic compositions often leads to such compositions having an undesirable "cottage cheese" appearance, which is highly undesirable in the cosmetics industry.
[0004] Therefore, there is a continuing need for stable aqueous dispersions of nano-sized methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol that can be easily incorporated into cosmetic compositions in combination with inorganic micropigments and overcome the above-mentioned disadvantages. Summary of the Invention
[0005] It is surprising to find that the particles are 8-10 Aqueous dispersions of nanosized methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol stabilized by alkyl polyglucosides allow the formulation of aesthetically attractive compositions comprising, in addition to the dispersion, at least one inorganic micropigment.
[0006] Thus, in a first embodiment, the present invention relates to an aqueous dispersion (I) consisting essentially of:
[0007] (i) 30 to 70% by weight, preferably 40 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion, of a nanosized, organic, insoluble UV absorber,
[0008] (ii) 2 to 15 wt. %, preferably 5 to 10 wt. %, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion, of C 8-10 Alkyl polyglucoside,
[0009] (iii) 0 to 3 wt. %, preferably 0.1 to 1 wt. %, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion, of at least one additive, and
[0010] (iv) 25 to 60% by weight, preferably 30 to 45% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
[0011] In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one inorganic micropigment and an aqueous dispersion (I), characterized in that the cosmetic composition does not substantially contain any C 12-16 Alkyl polyglucoside.
[0012] In addition, the present invention relates to C 8-10 Alkyl polyglucoside is used in the absence of any C 12-16 The invention relates to the use of alkyl polyglucosides for stabilizing mixtures of nano-sized organic insoluble UV absorbers and inorganic micropigments in cosmetic compositions.
[0013] Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for stabilizing a mixture of nano-sized organic insoluble UV absorbers and inorganic micropigments in a cosmetic composition, wherein the method comprises adding C 8-10 Alkyl polyglucoside and omit the addition of any C 12-16 Alkyl polyglucoside.
[0014] In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising the steps of: mixing at least one inorganic micropigment and dispersion (I) with a cosmetically acceptable carrier, with the proviso that C is not mixed and / or is not present in the composition. 12-16 Alkyl polyglucoside. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0015] The term "essentially consisting of" as used in accordance with the present invention means that the amounts of components (i) to (iv) total 100% by weight. However, it is not excluded that small amounts of impurities or additives may be present, which may have been introduced, for example, via the corresponding raw materials of components (i) to (iv).
[0016] As defined herein, the term "substantially (i.e., substantially) free of any C 12-16 "Alkyl polyglucoside" means that the composition of the present invention does not contain an appreciable amount of C 12-16The alkyl polyglucoside, in particular not containing an amount that causes an adverse effect in combination with the inorganic micropigments, is present in an amount such as, in particular, not more than 0.1% by weight, preferably not more than 0.05% by weight, most preferably not more than 0.1% by weight, such as in particular not more than 0.005% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0017] As used herein, the term "insoluble" refers to UV absorbers that exhibit solubility in common cosmetic oils at room temperature (ie, ~22°C), such as, for example, C 12-15 Alkyl benzoate, propylene glycol, mineral oil, and the solubility of the UV absorber in water is less than 0.01 wt %, preferably less than 0.05 wt %, most preferably less than 0.03 wt %.
[0018] The term "additives" as used herein refers to additives typically used in the preparation of aqueous dispersions of nano-sized organic-insoluble UV absorbers, such as, in particular, wetting agents, defoamers and thickeners, and mixtures thereof.
[0019] Particularly suitable wetting agents according to the present invention include (poly)propylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the wetting agent is propylene glycol. Such wetting agents are preferably present in dispersion (I) in a (total) amount selected from the range of 0.1 to 1 wt.-%, more preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 0.6 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the dispersion.
[0020] Particularly suitable defoamers according to the present invention include silicone oils, such as in particular polydimethylsiloxanes and / or silicon defoamers, such as in particular anhydrous dispersions of charred or hydrophobized silica in silicone oils, such as most particularly simethicone. Most preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the defoamer is simethicone. Such defoamers are preferably present in dispersion (I) in a (total) amount selected from the range of 0 to 1 wt.-%, more preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 0.2 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the dispersion.
[0021] Suitable thickeners according to the present invention include xanthan gum, gellan gum and / or carboxymethyl cellulose. Most preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the thickener is xanthan gum or gellan gum. Based on the gross weight of the dispersion, such thickeners are preferably present in dispersion (I) in an amount selected from the range of 0.1 to 1 % by weight, more preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 0.5 % by weight.
[0022] It is readily understood that one or more additives may be present in the aqueous dispersion (I). In a particularly advantageous embodiment, at least one thickener and at least one wetting agent are present in the aqueous dispersion (I). Most preferably, the aqueous dispersion (I) contains propylene glycol as an additive and a thickener selected from xanthan gum or gellan gum.
[0023] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the insoluble organic UV absorber is selected from 2,2'-methylene-bis-(6(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol [INCI: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, CAS 103597-45-1] and 2,4,6-Tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Tris-Biphenyltriazine, CAS 31274-51-8). Most preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the insoluble organic UV absorber is methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol.
[0024] Furthermore, in all embodiments of the present invention, preferably the nanosized insoluble organic UV absorber has an average particle size distribution D determined by light scattering (i.e. by photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS)) of less than 200 nm, more preferably in the range of 50 to 150 nm, most preferably in the range of 75 to 125 nm, such as in particular in the range of 80 to 110 nm. v In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the nano-sized insoluble organic UV absorber exhibits a D in the range of 50 to 80 nm. v 10. D in the range of 75 to 125 nm v 50 and D in the range of 140 to 180 nm v 90, even more preferably D in the range of 55 to 75 nm v 10. D in the range of 80 to 110 nm v 50 and D in the range of 150 to 175 nm v 90. The particle sizes given herein are typically determined using a Beckman Coulter Delsa Nano on a suspension of nano-sized insoluble organic UV absorbers in water, such as ultrapure water (Mili-Q purified), preferably at a concentration level of 3 mg / ml.
[0025] The term "alkyl polyglucoside (APG)" refers to a class of polyglycosides having the general formula C n H 2+n O(C6H 10 O5) xH nonionic surfactant, wherein n is an integer selected from the range of 2 to 22, and x refers to the average polymerization level of the glucoside segment (moiety) (i.e., the corresponding mono-glucoside, di-glucoside, tri-glucoside, oligo-glucoside and poly-glucoside and mixtures thereof). These APGs are widely used in household and industrial applications. They are generally derived from renewable raw materials, such as glucose and plant-derived fatty alcohols derived from corn. These alkyl polyglucosides generally exhibit an average polymerization level of the glucoside segment in the range of 1 to 1.7, preferably 1.2 to 1.6, such as 1.4 to 1.6.
[0026] Further advantageous average polymerization levels of glucoside fragments range from 1.1 to 1.6, such as 1.1 to 1.4 or 1.1 to 1.3. Further advantageous average polymerization levels of glucoside fragments range from 1.2 to 1.7 or 1.4 to 1.6.
[0027] According to the invention, a particularly advantageous C 8-10 Alkyl polyglucoside is generally composed of octyl (C8) polyglucoside and decyl (C 10 ) polyglucoside. Preferably, such octyl (C8) polyglucoside and decyl (C 10 ) polyglucosides also exhibit a ratio of octyl (C8) monoglucoside to decyl (C8) monoglucoside in the range of 3:1 to 1:3, preferably in the range of about 2:1 to 1:2, and most preferably in the range of 1.5:1 to 1:1.5. 10 ) monoglucosides (% / %, wherein all % are area-%) determined by HPLC-MS. 8-10 The alkyl polyglucoside preferably contains no more than 3 wt-%, more preferably no more than 2 wt-%, most preferably no more than 1.5 wt-% of C 12 Alkyl polyglucosides (as determined by HPLC-MS). It is to be understood that such alkyl polyglucosides are substantially free of (i.e., do not contain) any higher (i.e., C 14-16 ) alkyl polyglucoside.
[0028] Therefore, in an advantageous embodiment, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition according to the invention, wherein C 8-10 Alkyl polyglucosides contain not more than 2% of C 12 Alkyl monoglucoside. Preferably, C 8-10 Alkyl polyglucosides do not contain C 14-16 Alkyl polyglucoside.
[0029] In addition, it is generally composed of octyl (C8) polyglucoside and decyl (C 10 ) polyglucosides according to the present invention C 8-10The alkyl polyglucoside advantageously contains at least 60%, preferably at least 65%, most preferably at least 70% of the corresponding monoglucoside, as determined, for example, by HPLC-MS.
[0030] Furthermore, it is preferred that C according to the present invention 8-10 The alkyl polyglucoside is essentially (substantially) free of any C9 alkyl polyglucoside, i.e. substantially free of C9 alkyl polyglucoside. This means that the C9 alkyl polyglucoside is 8-10 The total weight of alkyl polyglucoside, C 8-10 The amount of any C9 alkyl polyglucoside in the alkyl polyglucoside is less than 0.1 wt%, preferably less than 0.05 wt%, most preferably less than 0.01 wt%, such as especially less than 0.005 wt%.
[0031] According to the invention, a particularly advantageous C 8-10 Alkyl polyglucoside is made of glucose from corn and C8 fatty alcohols and C 10 Fatty alcohols are made and sold, for example, as aqueous dispersions by Shanghai Fine Chemical under the trade name Green APG 0810.
[0032] A particularly advantageous aqueous dispersion (I) according to the invention is an aqueous dispersion (II) consisting of:
[0033] (i) 45 to 55 wt. % of nanosized methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion, having a D value determined by light scattering in the range of 50 to 150 nm. v 50,
[0034] (ii) 5 to 10 wt% of C based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion 8-10 Alkyl polyglucoside,
[0035] (iii) a) 0.1 to 0.7% by weight of propylene glycol,
[0036] b) 0.1 to 0.7% by weight of gellan gum or xanthan gum, and
[0037] (iv) 35 to 45 wt% water, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
[0038] (It will be understood that all definitions and preferences given herein also apply to dispersion (II)).
[0039] The aqueous dispersion according to the invention is advantageously incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight and most preferably in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0040] The inorganic micropigments are advantageously incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a total amount selected from the range of 0.1 to 40 wt. %, preferably from the range of 1 to 30 wt. %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0041] In all embodiments of the present invention, particularly suitable inorganic micropigments are metal powders, metal oxides or metal hydroxides conventionally used in cosmetic applications as inorganic UV filters or as colorants. Exemplary inorganic micropigments according to the present invention include magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium oxide, calcium hydroxide, aluminum oxide, aluminum hydroxide, iron oxide (α-Fe2O3, γ-Fe2O3, Fe3O4, FeO), iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow, iron oxide black, iron hydroxide, titanium (di) oxide, zirconium oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, manganese oxide, cobalt oxide, cerium oxide, nickel oxide and zinc oxide, as well as complex oxides and complex hydroxides such as iron titanate, cobalt titanate and cobalt aluminate.
[0042] The inorganic micropigments according to the present invention may optionally be surface treated, for example to make the particles more dispersible in the vehicle or to make them more hydrophobic.
[0043] Particularly preferred inorganic micropigments according to the present invention are selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and iron oxide, most preferably from titanium dioxide and iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0044] In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the inorganic micropigments are inorganic UV filters having a particle size mainly used for incorporation into sunscreen compositions, such as in particular titanium dioxide or zinc oxide UV filters.
[0045] These inorganic UV filters are preferably used in a (total) amount selected from the range of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably from the range of 0.5 to 10 wt. %, more preferably from the range of 1 to 10 wt. %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0046] Preferably, in all embodiments of the invention, titanium dioxide UV filters are used which have an average primary particle size of about 2 nm to 100 nm, preferably about 5 to 50 nm, and a secondary particle size of about 0.05 to 50 μm, preferably about 0.1 to 1 μm.
[0047] The crystalline form of the titanium dioxide UV filter can be any crystalline or amorphous type. For example, the titanium dioxide can be any type of amorphous, rutile, anatase, brookite or a mixture thereof.
[0048] In a preferred embodiment, the titanium dioxide UV filter used according to the invention is coated with at least one coating, such as, in particular, aluminum hydroxide, polyols, silicon dioxide, silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxane (methicone) or polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone), or alkylsilanes. Such coatings are well known in the art. Commercially available single-coated titanium dioxide suitable according to the invention can be used, for example, as TiO2 (INCI: trimethoxycaprylylsilane and titanium dioxide from BASF) or T-Avo (INCI: titanium dioxide, silicon dioxide) from Merck.
[0049] However, in a more particular embodiment of the invention, the titanium dioxide UV filter is a double-coated titanium dioxide, as this leads to even better results. This double-coated titanium dioxide preferably has an inner coating selected from inorganic silica or aluminum hydroxide and an outer organic coating (referred to as double-coated titanium dioxide). Preferably, the outer organic coating is selected from silicone oils (e.g. dimethicone, methicone, polydimethicone, polysilicone-15), alkylsilanes, olefinic acids (such as in particular stearic acid), polyols (such as in particular glycerol) or organic phosphonic acids (such as in particular cetyl phosphate).
[0050] In such doubly coated titanium dioxide, the inner coating preferably comprises at least 0.5 wt-%, more preferably 0.5 to 50 wt-%, most preferably 1 to 20 wt-%, based on the weight of the uncoated titanium dioxide.
[0051] The outer coating preferably consists of a minimum of 0.25 wt %, preferably 0.5 to 50 wt %, most preferably 0.5 to 10 wt % of the organic coating material, based on the weight of the uncoated titanium dioxide.
[0052] Such double-coated titanium dioxide nanoparticles can be prepared according to prior art or as TX (INCI: titanium dioxide, silicon dioxide, dimethicone from DSM Nutritional Products) or as UV-Titan X195 (from Merck, coated with silicon dioxide and treated with silicone oil (i.e., methicone)) or Tayca MT-100TV (titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) stearic acid).
[0053] Other commonly used organic coatings may be present in addition to produce multi-coated (such as, for example, triple-coated) titanium dioxide. Other coatings may be applied before, after, or together with the second outer coating. Other additional coatings that may be used include organic coatings such as stearic acid, silicones (silane derivatives such as triethoxycaprylylsilane or siloxane derivatives such as polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethicone).
[0054] In all embodiments of the present invention, the titanium dioxide UV filter is most preferably a double coated titanium dioxide with an inner inorganic silica coating, wherein the outer coating consists of dimethicone, methicone, dimethicone (also known as polydimethylsiloxane), polysilicone-15, stearic acid, glycerol and mixtures thereof, in particular methicone, dimethicone, stearic acid or mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the outer coating consists of methicone or dimethicone, in particular dimethicone. The most preferred titanium dioxide UV filters according to the present invention are UV-Titan X195 from Huntsman and / or UV-Titan X195 from DSM Nutritional Products. TX, which is coated with silicon dioxide (inner coating) and treated with silicone oils such as, in particular, polymethylsiloxane (UV-Titan X195) or polydimethylsiloxane ( TX) treated titanium dioxide grades as external coatings. Most particularly, DSM Nutritional Products' Tx as titanium dioxide UV filter.
[0055] In another advantageous embodiment, the inorganic micropigments are colorants conventionally used in decorative cosmetics, such as makeup and / or foundation compositions. Particularly suitable inorganic colorants according to the invention are titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate and iron blue or metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder.
[0056] If present, the (total) amount of these inorganic colorants is preferably selected from the range of 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0057] The crystalline form of the iron oxide and titanium dioxide colorants can be any crystalline or amorphous type suitable for the purpose. For example, titanium dioxide can be amorphous, rutile, anatase, brookite, or any mixture thereof. The particle shape of the iron oxide colorant can be any acicular, spherical, or cubic shape, and mixtures thereof.
[0058] Particularly preferred inorganic colorants according to the present invention are selected from iron oxide and titanium dioxide having a particle size range of about 0.001 to 150 μm, preferably about 0.002 to 100 μm, more preferably about 0.02 to 50 μm. Such inorganic colorants are well known to those skilled in the art and are commercially available, for example, from Sensient under the trade name UNIPURE.
[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the iron oxide and titanium dioxide colorants used according to the invention are surface-treated with organic coatings, such as with alkylsilanes, for example, triethoxycaprylylsilane, with silicone oils, for example, polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylsiloxane, with organic titanates, and / or with natural surface treatments, for example, polyhydroxystearic acid, hydrogenated lecithin stearoyl glutamate, jojoba esters, and sodium glycerophosphate. Inorganic colorants coated in this manner are well known to those skilled in the art and are, for example, commercially available under the trade name UNIPURE from Sensient or from Merck in the KOBO colorant product line.
[0060] Particularly suitable inorganic colorants for foundations and / or make-up compositions according to the invention include optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), listed in the Colour Index with reference CI 77891, such as UNIPURE LC 981AS-EM from Sensient. Particularly suitable inorganic colorants for foundations and / or make-up compositions according to the invention include black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, listed in the Colour Index with reference CI 77499, 77492 and 77491, which are optionally surface-treated, such as Unipure REDLC381 from Sensient.
[0061] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, being understood as external application to keratinous substances, such as in particular the skin.
[0062] Since the cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with keratinous substances, such as the skin, mucous membranes and keratin fibers. In particular, the physiologically acceptable medium is a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
[0063] As used herein, the term "cosmetically acceptable carrier" refers to a physiologically acceptable medium that is compatible with keratinous substances. Suitable carriers are well known in the art and are selected based on the end-use application. Preferably, the carrier of the present invention is suitable for application to the skin (e.g., in the form of a cream, milk, lotion, mask, serum, aqueous dispersion, foundation, gel or gel, etc.). Such carriers are well known to those of ordinary skill in the art and may include one or more compatible liquid or solid filler diluents, excipients, adjuvants, additives or vehicles suitable for application to the skin.
[0064] Examples of cosmetic excipients, diluents, adjuvants, additives, and active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry and suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the Personal Care Product Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook (http: / / www.personalcarecouncil.org / ), which can be accessed through the online information base (INFOBASE) (http: / / online.personalcarecouncil.org / jsp / Home.jsp), but are not limited thereto.
[0065] Particularly suitable excipients, diluents, adjuvant additives for the compositions according to the invention are cosmetic oils, such as C 12-15 Alkyl benzoates, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, capric / caprylic triglyceride, diisopropyl sebacate, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin (Euxyl PE 9010 from Shulke & Mayr), parabens (Euxyl K300 from Schülke & Mayr); thickeners for the aqueous phase such as polysaccharides such as, for example, xanthan gum (Keltrol CGT from Kelco); biopolymers such as, for example, cellulose gum (Tylose CG200 from SE Tylose); mineral thickeners such as, for example, magnesium aluminum silicate (Vegum from Vanderbilt); synthetic polymers such as, for example, carbomer (Carbopol 980 from Lubrizol); UV filters; fragrances; and humectants such as, for example, glycerol and propylene glycol.
[0066] According to the present invention, the composition according to the invention may also contain additional cosmetic active ingredients conventionally used in cosmetic compositions. Exemplary active ingredients include skin lightening agents; UV filters; agents for treating hyperpigmentation; agents for preventing or reducing inflammation; firming agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents and / or energizing agents, as well as agents for improving elasticity and the skin barrier.
[0067] The skilled artisan can readily determine, based on the desired product form and application, the necessary amounts of active ingredients as well as excipients, diluents, adjuvants, additives, etc. Additional ingredients can be added to the oil phase, to the aqueous phase, or separately, as appropriate.
[0068] In some cases, the cosmetically active ingredients useful herein may provide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of action.
[0069] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to select the above-mentioned optional additional ingredients, adjuvants, diluents and additives and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the combination according to the invention are not or are not substantially adversely affected by the envisaged addition or additions.
[0070] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is generally prepared by mixing the aqueous dispersion according to the invention and the inorganic micropigments with suitable excipients, diluents, adjuvants and / or additives. If desired, active ingredients may additionally be added to the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0071] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a sunscreen composition for protecting the skin from harmful UV radiation or a make-up and / or foundation composition for providing an even "base" skin tone.
[0072] The compositions according to the invention, in particular sunscreen compositions, preferably comprise at least one additional organic UV filter (sunscreen) which is active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region (absorber), this UV filter being water-soluble, fat-soluble or insoluble in customary cosmetic solvents.
[0073] Particularly advantageous UVA, UVB and / or broad-spectrum UV filters to be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, such as, for example, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane ( 1789); acrylates, such as, for example, octocrylene ( 340); camphor derivatives, such as, for example, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor ( 5000) or terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid ( SX); cinnamate derivatives, such as, for example, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate ( MCX) or isoamyl methoxycinnamate; para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, such as, for example, para-aminobenzoic acid or 2-ethylhexyl para-dimethylaminobenzoate; benzophenones, such as, for example, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxy-benzophenone or 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4-dimethoxybenzophenone; esters of benzylidenemalonic acid, such as, for example, di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-methoxybenzylidenemalonate; organosilicone compounds with chromophores, such as, for example, polysilicone-15 ( SLX) or drometrizole trisiloxane ( XL); imidazole derivatives, such as, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid and salts thereof, such as, for example, its sodium or potassium salt ( HS); salicylate derivatives, such as, for example, ethylhexyl salicylate ( EHS, OS), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate or homosalate ( HMS, HMS); triazine derivatives such as, for example, ethylhexyl triazone ( T-150), diethylhexyl butyramido triazone ( HEB), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ( S) or terphenyl triazine (2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine, A2B); encapsulated UV filters, such as, for example, encapsulated ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate ( UV-pearls); amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenones, such as, for example, diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate (aminobenzophenone, A Plus); benzoxazole derivatives such as, for example, 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine ( K2A); phenylene-1,4-bis-benzimidazolesulfonic acid or a salt thereof, such as, for example, disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate (2,2-(1,4-phenylene)bis-(1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid, AP); 1,1'(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS No. 919803-06-6); and bis(butylbenzoate)diaminotriazinylaminopropyl trisiloxane (CAS No. 207562-42-3).
[0074] Preferred UVB filters to be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions according to the invention include polysilicone-15, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, terphenyl triazine and / or homosalate.
[0075] Preferred broadband UV filters to be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions according to the invention encompass asymmetrical triazine derivatives, such as, in particular, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and / or certain benzophenones, such as, for example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone.
[0076] Preferred UVA filters to be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions according to the invention include butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(2,4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine and / or disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate, in particular butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and / or diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
[0077] If the topical sunscreen emulsion comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, it advantageously additionally comprises at least one suitable light stabilizer for butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. In addition to the specific UV filters listed above, which are known to those skilled in the art to be capable of photostabilizing butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, further exemplary light stabilizers include polyester 8 Methoxypolyacrylonitrile (Solastay); diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate (Oxynex ST liquid); diethylhexyl naphthalate (Corapan TQ) and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol ( TL), but is not limited thereto. An overview of such light stabilizers is provided, for example, in "SPF Boosters & Photostability of Ultraviolet Filters," HAPPI, October 2007, pp. 77-83, which is incorporated herein by reference. These light stabilizers are typically used in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the topical sunscreen emulsion.
[0078] The total amount of additional UV filters in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably selected from the range of 0.1 to 40 wt.-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 20 wt.-%, most preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0079] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a suspension or dispersion in a solvent or a fatty substance, or alternatively in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion (in particular of the oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) type, silicone-in-water (Si / W) or water-in-silicone (W / Si) type, a PIT emulsion, a multiple emulsion (for example of the oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) or water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) type), a Pickering emulsion, a hydrogel, an alcoholic gel, a lipogel, a single-phase solution or a multiphase solution or a vesicular dispersion or other customary forms, which may also be applied by means of a pen, in the form of a mask or in the form of a spray.
[0080] If the composition is an emulsion, such as in particular an O / W, W / O, Si / W, W / Si, O / W / O, W / O / W multiple emulsion or a Pickering emulsion, the amount of oily phase present in this cosmetic emulsion is preferably at least 10% by weight, such as in the range of 10 to 60% by weight, preferably in the range of 15 to 50% by weight, most preferably in the range of 15 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0081] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier. The preparation of such O / W emulsions is well known to those skilled in the art.
[0082] If the composition according to the invention is an O / W emulsion, it advantageously contains at least one O / W or Si / W emulsifier selected from the list of glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate SE (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, salts of stearic acid and polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate. Further suitable emulsifiers are phosphates and their salts, such as cetyl phosphate (available for example as Cetyl Phosphate from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. A), diethanolamine cetyl phosphate (available for example as DEA), potassium cetyl phosphate (available, for example, as K), sodium cetearyl sulfate, sodium glyceryl oleate phosphate, hydrogenated vegetable glyceryl phosphate, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable emulsifiers are sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, cetearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, alkyl glucoside (decyl glucoside), sodium stearoyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate and hydrated polyisobutylene. In addition, one or more synthetic polymers can be used as emulsifiers. For example, PVP eicosene copolymer, acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and mixtures thereof.
[0083] The at least one O / W or Si / W emulsifier is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt.-%, in particular in the range of 0.5 to 6 wt.-%, such as more particularly in the range of 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, such as most particularly in the range of 1 to 4 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0084] Particularly suitable O / W emulsifiers to be used in the compositions according to the invention include phosphate emulsifiers, such as advantageously 8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, C9-15 alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5 phosphate, ceteth-8 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, C6-10 pareth-4 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-2 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-3 phosphate, DEA-ceteareth-2 phosphate, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA-oleth-3 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, decethe-4 phosphate, decethe-6 phosphate and trilaureth-4 phosphate.
[0085] A particularly suitable O / W emulsifier to be used in the compositions according to the invention is potassium cetyl phosphate, commercially available, for example, from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. in Kaiseraugst. K.
[0086] Another particularly suitable class of O / W emulsifiers are the nonionic self-emulsifying systems derived from olive oil, such as those known as (INCI name) cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (chemical composition: cetearyl and sorbitan esters of olive oil fatty acids), sold under the trade name OLIVEM 1000.
[0087] In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an O / W emulsion having all the definitions and preferences given herein, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier, wherein the O / W emulsifier is potassium cetyl phosphate. The amount of oily phase in such an O / W emulsion is preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably in the range of 10 to 60% by weight, most preferably in the range of 15 to 50% by weight, such as in the range of 15 to 40% by weight.
[0088] The compositions according to the present invention typically have a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably a pH in the range of 4 to 8, most preferably a pH in the range of 4 to 7.5. The pH can be readily adjusted as required using suitable acids such as citric acid or bases such as sodium hydroxide (e.g. as an aqueous solution), triethanolamine (TEA Care), tromethamine (Trizma Base) and aminomethyl propanol (AMP-Ultra PC 2000) according to standard methods in the art.
[0089] The following provides embodiments of the present invention:
[0090] 1. An aqueous dispersion consisting essentially of:
[0091] (v) 30 to 70 wt. % of a nano-sized organic insoluble UV absorber, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion,
[0092] (vi) 2 to 15 wt% of C based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion 8-10 Alkyl polyglucoside,
[0093] (vii) 0 to 3 wt. % of at least one additive, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion, and
[0094] (viii) 25 to 60 wt% of water, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
[0095] 2. The aqueous dispersion according to embodiment 1, characterized in that the nanosized organic insoluble UV absorber is methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol or 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine, preferably methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol.
[0096] 3. Aqueous dispersion according to embodiment 1 or 2, characterized in that the nanosized organic insoluble UV absorber has an average particle size distribution D of less than 200 nm as determined by light scattering. v 50.
[0097] 4. Aqueous dispersion according to any one of embodiments 1 to 3, characterized in that the at least one additive is chosen from wetting agents, thickeners and defoamers and mixtures thereof.
[0098] 5. The aqueous dispersion according to embodiment 4, characterized in that the at least one additive is selected from propylene glycol, silicon defoamers, xanthan gum and gellan gum and mixtures thereof.
[0099] 6. The aqueous dispersion according to any one of embodiments 1 to 5, characterized in that the C 8-10 Alkyl polyglucoside has a ratio of octyl (C8) monoglucoside to decyl (C 10 ) The ratio of monoglucoside (% / %).
[0100] 7. A cosmetic composition comprising the aqueous dispersion according to any one of embodiments 1 to 6 and at least one inorganic micropigment, characterized in that the cosmetic composition does not substantially contain any C 12-16 Alkyl polyglucoside.
[0101] 8. The cosmetic composition according to embodiment 7, characterized in that the (total) amount of the at least one inorganic micropigment is selected from the range of 0.1 to 40 wt. %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0102] 9. The cosmetic composition according to embodiment 7 or 8, characterized in that the amount of the aqueous dispersion in the cosmetic composition is selected from the range of 0.1 to 20 wt %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0103] 10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 7 to 9, characterized in that the inorganic micropigments are inorganic UV filters or colorants.
[0104] 11. The cosmetic composition according to embodiment 10, characterized in that the inorganic micropigment is titanium dioxide coated with at least one coating, preferably titanium dioxide coated with aluminum hydroxide, polyol, silicon dioxide, silicone oil or alkylsilane.
[0105] 12. The cosmetic composition according to embodiment 11, characterized in that the titanium dioxide is a double-coated titanium dioxide having an inner aluminum hydroxide or inorganic silica coating and an outer organic coating selected from dimethicone, polymethicone, polydimethylsiloxane, polysilicone-15, cetyl phosphate, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0106] 13. The cosmetic composition according to embodiment 10, characterized in that the colorant is iron oxide or titanium dioxide having a particle size selected from the range of 0.001-150 μm.
[0107] 14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 7 to 13, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.
[0108] 15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 7 to 14, characterized in that the composition is a sunscreen or a makeup / foundation composition.
[0109] The following examples are provided to further illustrate the compositions and effects of the present invention. These examples are merely illustrative and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention in any way.
[0110] Example
[0111] 1. Preparation of the dispersion according to the invention
[0112] 22 kg of purified water was added to a 100 1 container at 30° C. to 35° C. Then, 9.8 kg of GreenAPG 0810 was added. Then, 33 kg of GrandsorbUV360 having a coarse particle size D of 86 μm was slowly added over 30 minutes. v 90 (measured by laser diffraction using a Malvern Mastersizer 3000, powder measurement, air pressure of 0.2 bar), and the resulting suspension was subsequently degassed at 65° C. for 2 hours with gentle stirring. The resulting suspension was then cooled to 25° C. to 30° C. Subsequently, 50 kg of the resulting suspension was ground in an LMZ 4 using yttrium-stabilized zirconia grinding beads (available from Tosoh Ceramic, Japan, 0.3 mm, 95% ZrO 2 , 5% Y 2 O 3 ) until a particle size D of about 100 nm was obtained. v 50 (measured by light scattering using a Coulter Delsa Nano S at an adjusted concentration of 3 mg / ml). After removing the grinding beads, a suspension consisting of 161 g of propylene glycol and 80.5 g of gellan gum was slowly added at about 40° C. with gentle stirring to obtain the final product form.
[0113] 2. Analysis
[0114] Approximately 1 mg / ml of the corresponding methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol dispersion was dissolved in a 50 / 50 mixture of tetrahydrofuran and water and analyzed by HPLC-mass spectrometry using a reversed-phase YMC Pro C4 column with a water / acetonitrile gradient (5 to 90% acetonitrile over 15 minutes) containing 0.1% methanesulfonic acid. Detection was performed on an Agilent 6130 single MSD operating in ES positive ion mode. TIC and EIC were used to determine the relative distribution of the compounds of interest.
[0115] The relative distribution of alkyl polyglucosides is listed in Table 1. All % are area %.
[0116] Table 1: Relative distribution of corresponding alkyl monoglucosides
[0117]
[0118] 3. Formulation compatibility
[0119] 10 wt% (i.e. 5 wt% active matter) M or the dispersion according to Example 1 was added to several commercial sunscreens containing titanium dioxide (nano) (SUN DANCE Sensitive Sonnenbalsam SPF 30, SUNDANCE Anti-age Straffende Sonnenmilch SPF 30, SUN DANCE Sport Sonnen Light Lotion SPF 20, SUNDANCE Sonnen Light Lotion SPF 20 mit Kokosduft, Sun Ozon Sonnenspray SPF 30).
[0120] Add to In all of the above cases, M leads to agglomeration of the corresponding sunscreen, ie a cottage cheese effect, whereas the addition of the dispersion according to the invention does not change the optical appearance of the corresponding sunscreen.
[0121] As a reference, a sunscreen without titanium dioxide (nano) was tested (Coppertone Sport SPF50), which in both cases did not lead to a change in the optical appearance.
[0122] In addition, the formulations listed in Table 2 were prepared and analyzed by microscopic examination and the acceptability of the product form was visually assessed. It can be concluded that only the samples prepared using the dispersion according to the invention resulted in an acceptable product form.
[0123]
[0124]
[0125]
Claims
1. An aqueous dispersion consisting essentially of: (i) 30 to 70 wt. % of a nano-sized organic insoluble UV absorber, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion, (ii) 2 to 15 wt% of C based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion 8-10 Alkyl polyglucoside, (iii) 0 to 3 wt. % of at least one additive, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion, and (iv) 25 to 60 wt% of water, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
2. The aqueous dispersion according to claim 1, characterized in that The nano-sized organic insoluble UV absorber is methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol or 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine, preferably methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol.
3. The aqueous dispersion according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The nano-sized organic insoluble UV absorber has an average particle size distribution D of less than 200 nm as measured by light scattering. v 50.
4. The aqueous dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that The at least one additive is selected from the group consisting of wetting agents, thickeners and defoamers, and mixtures thereof.
5. The aqueous dispersion according to claim 4, characterized in that The at least one additive is selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, silicon defoamers, xanthan gum, gellan gum, and mixtures thereof.
6. The aqueous dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that The C 8-10 Alkyl polyglucoside has a ratio of octyl (C8) monoglucoside to decyl (C 10 ) The ratio of monoglucoside (% / %).
7. A cosmetic composition comprising the aqueous dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 6 and at least one inorganic micropigment, characterized in that The cosmetic composition does not substantially contain any C 12-16 Alkyl polyglucoside.
8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that The (total) amount of the at least one inorganic micropigment is selected from the range of 0.1 to 40 wt. %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that The amount of the aqueous dispersion in the cosmetic composition is selected from the range of 0.1 to 20 wt % based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that The inorganic micro-pigments are inorganic UV filters or colorants.