Composition comprising at least one amino acid, at least one associative polyurethane, at least one specific polysaccharide and at least one aminosilicone

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof and / or a mixture thereof; b) at least one associative polyurethane; c) optionally at least one cationic polymer; d) at least one polysaccharide different from the cationic polymer; and e) at least one amino silicone.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising amino acid, associative polyurethane, specific polysaccharide and aminosilicone.

[0002] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, comprising at least one step of applying such a composition to said keratin material, and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers. Background Art

[0003] Hair can become damaged and brittle due to external atmospheric factors such as pollution and bad weather, as well as mechanical or chemical treatments or certain everyday activities such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, straightening, and / or repeated washing. Furthermore, it is known that particles of metals, such as copper, are often present in water. Consequently, upon contact with water, for example after bathing, washing, and / or rinsing with water, these metal particles, such as copper, can accumulate on the surface of keratin materials, particularly keratin fibers such as hair, or even penetrate the stratum corneum. The accumulation of these metal particles in hair affects its resistance to damage. As a result of all these external insults, hair can then become damaged and, over time, dry, rough, brittle, and dull.

[0004] Therefore, in order to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to use hair care compositions which aim to condition the hair by imparting to it satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular smoothness, shine, softness to the touch, suppleness and lightness, and also good detangling properties, so as to make the hair combable and manageable, thereby making it easier to style the hair.

[0005] Furthermore, hair care compositions are increasingly used to combat the accumulation of metals in the hair fibre or to neutralise metal ions.

[0006] However, these compositions do not improve the quality of the fibers sufficiently to enable repair of the fibers or to reduce their breakage, for example during combing or detangling. Furthermore, the conditioning effect obtained using these hair care compositions fades rapidly over time.

[0007] Therefore, there is still a real need to find a means for treating keratin materials, especially keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which are preferably damaged and / or sensitized, which means are able to satisfactorily condition said materials, neutralize metal ions and / or metals, in particular iron, copper and / or calcium, and maintain or improve the quality of these materials, making it possible to repair them and / or reduce their breakage, for example during combing or detangling.

[0008] It has now been found that the application to keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, of a composition comprising an amino acid and / or a salt thereof in combination with an associative polyurethane, a polysaccharide other than a cationic polymer and an aminosilicone makes it possible to achieve the objects set out above and, in particular, to neutralize metal ions and / or metals of the hair and thus repair keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers and / or prevent their breakage, thereby imparting to keratin materials, including keratin fibers such as hair, in particular excellent cosmetic properties, in particular a light feel, softness, smoothness and shine, and also improved detangling and combing.

[0009] Furthermore, the texture of the composition thus prepared is particularly pleasant, light and close to that of a cream; it glides and is easy to apply and distribute on the hair; it also melts and disappears quickly into the hair after application. Summary of the Invention

[0010] A subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0011] (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof and / or a mixture thereof;

[0012] (b) at least one associative polyurethane;

[0013] (c) optionally at least one cationic polymer;

[0014] (d) at least one polysaccharide other than a cationic polymer; and

[0015] (e) at least one aminosilicone.

[0016] It has been found that the hair treated with the composition according to the invention has good cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to lightness, softness, smoothness, shine, and ease of detangling and combing. Furthermore, it has been observed that the metal ions and / or metals accumulated in the hair thus treated are neutralized, thereby contributing to reducing its breakage.

[0017] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has good handling qualities. It is easy to apply and distribute on keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers. It has a pleasant texture.

[0018] The present invention also provides a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, especially keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials, especially keratin fibers.

[0019] A subject of the present invention is also the use of the above-described composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, especially keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.

[0020] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become still more clearly apparent upon reading the following description and examples.

[0021] In this manual, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0022] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to and can be replaced by the expression "one or more";

[0023] - the expression "between" is equivalent to and can be replaced by the expression "ranging from" and means that the limit values ​​are included;

[0024] - the term "keratin material" denotes keratin fibers, and in particular the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes or scalp;

[0025] - according to the present patent application, the term "keratin fibers" denotes human keratin fibers and more particularly hair;

[0026] The term "silicone" means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and consisting essentially of the repetition of main units in which silicon atoms are linked to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bonds -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based groups being directly linked to said silicon atoms via carbon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, aminosilicones and dimethiconols.

[0027] amino acids

[0028] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino acid, a salt thereof and / or a mixture thereof.

[0029] Preferably, the amino acid is selected from natural amino acids, synthetic amino acids, and mixtures thereof in their L, D or racemic form, and comprises at least one acid functional group selected from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functional groups. The amino acid may be in neutral or ionic form.

[0030] The amino acid is preferably selected from neutral amino acids, acidic amino acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] The term "neutral amino acid" is intended to mean an amino acid having a pH between 5 and 7 (inclusive) in water at ambient temperature (25°C).

[0032] The term "acidic amino acid" is intended to mean an amino acid having a pH of less than 5 in water at ambient temperature.

[0033] The amino acid may be a natural or synthetic α-amino acid comprising a carbon atom C carrying an amine group, a carboxyl group, a hydrogen atom and a side group which may be a hydrogen atom (in the case of glycine), any other monovalent organic group or a ring comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amine group and several further carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 4 further carbon atoms.

[0034] The side groups can in particular be alkyl (in the case of alanine, valine, leucine or isoleucine), substituted alkyl (in the case of threonine, serine, methionine, cysteine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glutamine, arginine and lysine), aralkyl (in the case of phenylalanine and tryptophan), substituted aralkyl (in the case of tyrosine) or heteroalkyl (in the case of histidine).

[0035] The side group may in particular be a 5-membered ring comprising the carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of the amine group and three further carbon atoms, as in the case of proline.

[0036] These α-amino acids are listed inter alia in Harper et al. (1977) Review of Physiological Chemistry, 16th ed., Lange Medical Publications, pp. 21-24.

[0037] The term "synthetic α-amino acid" means an α-amino acid that is not incorporated into protein under the control of mRNA, for example a fluorinated α-amino acid such as fluoroalanine or trimethylsilylalanine, or an α-amino acid such as:

[0038]

[0039] wherein n1 is an integer from 1 to 6 and n2 is an integer from 1 to 12.

[0040] In addition, the synthesis of amino acids is described in Williams (ed.), Synthesis of Optically Active α-Amino Acids, Pergamon Press (1989); Evans et al., J. Amer. Chem. Soc. 112, 4011-4030 (1990); PU et al., J. Amer. Chem. Soc. 56, 1280-1283 (1991); Williams et al., J. Amer. Chem. Soc. 113, 9276-9286 (1991).

[0041] Advantageously, the amino acids are chosen from glycine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, polylysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] According to the invention, the term "amino acid salts" is understood to mean salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium and calcium salts, and zinc salts.

[0043] Preferably, the amino acid according to the present invention is selected from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, even more preferably selected from glycine and arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Advantageously, the total content of amino acids, their salts and / or mixtures thereof ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Advantageously, the total content of amino acids, their salts and / or mixtures thereof is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Advantageously, the total content of glycine and / or arginine and / or salts thereof ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Advantageously, the total content of glycine and / or arginine and / or salts thereof is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Advantageously, the total content of glycine and / or its salts ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] Advantageously, the total content of glycine and / or its salts is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Associative polyurethane

[0051] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one associative polyurethane.

[0052] It is to be understood that "associative polymers" are polymers capable of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules in an aqueous medium. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

[0053] The associative polyurethanes according to the invention preferably comprise at least one fatty chain having at least 8 carbon atoms. They are not siliconized.

[0054] This type of polymer is able to interact with itself or with specific compounds such as surfactants to cause thickening of the medium.

[0055] The associative polyurethane can be selected from nonionic associative polyurethanes, anionic associative polyurethanes, cationic associative polyurethanes, amphoteric or zwitterionic associative polyurethanes and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from nonionic associative polyurethanes, anionic associative polyurethanes and cationic associative polyurethanes and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Anionic

[0057] As anionic associative polyurethanes according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of acrylic terpolymers that are soluble or swellable in alkali.

[0058] It is characterized in that the acrylic acid terpolymer comprises:

[0059] a) about 20 to 70% by weight, preferably 25 to 55% by weight, of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid;

[0060] b) about 20% to 80% by weight, preferably 30% to 65% by weight, of non-surfactant monoethylenically unsaturated monomers other than a), and

[0061] c) about 0.5% to 60% by weight, preferably 10% to 50% by weight, of a nonionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monohydroxy nonionic surfactant and a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.

[0062] The acrylic terpolymers defined above are obtained by copolymerization of components a), b) and c) in aqueous emulsion, which is completely conventional and described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109.

[0063] As examples of anionic associative polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of polyurethanes comprising at least one (meth)acrylic acid C1-C 30 Methacrylic acid or acrylic acid copolymers containing alkyl ester units and urethane units substituted by aliphatic chains. Mention may be made in particular of the copolymers sold under the trade name CARBOXYLATE® by Union Carbide. DB 1000 is sold as a methacrylic acid / methyl methacrylate / methylstyrene isopropyl isocyanate / polyethoxylated behenyl alcohol (containing 40 ethoxy units) copolymer.

[0064] Nonionic

[0065] The nonionic associative polyurethanes used in the present invention may be polyether-polyurethanes comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks, most generally of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic blocks, these hydrophobic blocks being solely aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences.

[0066] Preferably, the polyether-polyurethane comprises at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, these hydrocarbon-based chains being side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic blocks. In particular, one or more side chains are envisaged. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of the hydrophilic block.

[0067] Polyether-polyurethanes can be multi-block, particularly in tri-block form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a tri-block copolymer with a hydrophilic core block) or distributed at the ends and throughout the chain (e.g., a multi-block copolymer). These polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers.

[0068] The fatty chain nonionic polyether-polyurethane may be a triblock copolymer whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethyleneated chain containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyether-polyurethane contains urethane linkages between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the name.

[0069] By extension, fatty-chain nonionic polyether-polyurethanes also include those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0070] As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyether-polyurethanes, use may also be made of Rheolate 205, or Rheolate 208, 204 or 212, which contain urea groups and are sold by Rheox, and also of Rheolate 206, 207, 208, 209 or 210, which are sold by Rohm and Haas. & Haas) (Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decanol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)).

[0071] Also mentioned are the products from Akzo containing C 12 -C 14 Products with alkyl chains Elfacos T210 and C 18 Alkyl chain product Elfacos T212.

[0072] It is also possible to use a C-saturated fatty acid ester sold at 20% solids in water. 20 The alkyl chain and urethane linkage were obtained from Rohm and Haas as product DW 1206B.

[0073] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, in particular in water or in a water / alcohol medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by Veyron. Products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by Rohm and Haas can also be used.

[0074] Polyether polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and FK. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0075] As preferred examples of nonionic associative polyurethanes, mention may be made of polyether-polyurethanes obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing from 150 to 180 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decanol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0076] Such polyether-polyurethanes are marketed in particular by Rohm and Haas Company under the name 46 and 44 sales. 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 15 wt% in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%), and 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decanol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 35 wt% in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).

[0077] Mention may also be made of the polycondensates of polyethylene glycol containing 240 mol of ethyleneoxy groups, polyoxyethyleneated decyltetradecyl alcohol having 20 ethyleneoxy units, and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), such as the polycondensate sold under the name Adekanol GT-730 by Adeka USA Corporation (INCI name: Copolymer PEG-240 / HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetadecanol Eth-20 Ether).

[0078] Cationic

[0079] The cationic associative polyurethane is preferably chosen from the cationic associative polyurethanes, a family of which has been described by the Applicant in French patent application No. 0 009 609; it can be represented by the following general formula (Ia):

[0080] RX-(P) n -[L-(Y) m ] r -L'-(P') p -X'-R'(Ia)

[0081] in:

[0082] -R and R', which may be the same or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

[0083] - X and X', which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group or alternatively a group L";

[0084] - L, L' and L", which may be the same or different, represent a group derived from diisocyanate;

[0085] - P and P', which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group;

[0086] -Y represents a hydrophilic group;

[0087] - r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive;

[0088] - n, m and p are each independently between 0 and 1000 (inclusive);

[0089] The molecule contains at least one protonated or quaternized amine functional group and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0090] Preferably, the cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) comprise the groups R and R′ as the only hydrophobic groups at the chain ends.

[0091] A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) described above, in which:

[0092] -R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

[0093] -X and X' each represent a group L",

[0094] - n and p are integers between 1 and 1000 (inclusive), and

[0095] -L, L', L", P, P', Y and m have the meanings given above.

[0096] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above, in which:

[0097] The fact that -n and p are 0 is intended to mean that these polymers do not comprise units derived from monomers containing amine functions which have been incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation.

[0098] The protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes are generated by hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the chain ends, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing hydrophobic groups, i.e. compounds of the RQ or R'Q type, wherein R and R' are as defined above and Q indicates a leaving group, such as a halide, sulfate, etc.

[0099] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above, in which:

[0100] R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

[0101] X and X' both independently represent a group containing a quaternary amine,

[0102] n and p are zero, and

[0103] L, L', Y and m have the meanings indicated above.

[0104] The number-average molecular weight of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500,000, in particular between 1000 and 400,000 and ideally between 1000 and 300,000.

[0105] The term "hydrophobic group" means a group or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain (which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S), or a group containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When the hydrophobic group refers to a hydrocarbon-based group, it contains at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0106] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based groups are derived from monofunctional compounds.

[0107] For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecanol or decanol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon-based polymer, such as polybutadiene.

[0108] When X and / or X' indicates a group including a tertiary amine or a quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulae:

[0109]

[0110] in:

[0111] R2 represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally containing a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene group, one or more of which may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P;

[0112] R1 and R3, which may be the same or different, indicate a linear or branched C1-C 30 Alkyl, alkenyl or aryl, at least one of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P;

[0113] A - The anionic counterion is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide, or methanesulfonate.

[0114] The groups L, L' and L" represent groups of the formula:

[0115]

[0116] in:

[0117] Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and

[0118] R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene group, one or more of which may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P.

[0119] The groups P and P' comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae:

[0120]

[0121] in:

[0122] R5 and R7 have the same meanings as previously defined for R2;

[0123] R6, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as previously defined for R1 and R3;

[0124] R 10 represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P;

[0125] And A - The anionic counterion is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide, or methanesulfonate.

[0126] With respect to the meaning of Y, the term "hydrophilic group" means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

[0127] By way of example, when it is not a polymer, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0128] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides or mixtures of these polymers.The hydrophilic compound is preferably a polyether and in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0129] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds with functional groups containing labile hydrogen. The functional groups containing labile hydrogen may be alcohols, primary or secondary amines, or thiol groups, which, after reaction with the diisocyanate functional groups, give rise to polyurethanes, polyureas, and polythioureas, respectively. In the present invention, the term "polyurethane" encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes themselves, polyureas, and polythioureas, as well as copolymers thereof.

[0130] The first type of compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound containing at least one unit with an amine functional group. The compound can be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, that is, the compound contains two labile hydrogen atoms carried, for example, by hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine, or thiol functional groups. Mixtures of multifunctional and difunctional compounds can also be used, wherein the percentage of multifunctional compound is relatively low.

[0131] As mentioned above, the compound may comprise more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer with repeating units containing an amine function.

[0132] Compounds of this type can be represented by one of the following formulae:

[0133] HZ-(P)n-ZH,

[0134] or

[0135] HZ-(P')p-ZH

[0136] wherein Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0137] Examples of compounds containing an amine function that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0138] The second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the following formula:

[0139] O=C=N-R4-N=C=O

[0140] wherein R4 is as defined above.

[0141] By way of example, mention may be made of methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, methylene cyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.

[0142] The third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the hydrophobic end groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

[0143] The compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a functional group containing a labile hydrogen, such as a hydroxyl group, a primary or secondary amine or a thiol functional group.

[0144] For example, the compound may be a fatty alcohol such as in particular stearyl alcohol, dodecanol or decanol.When the compound comprises a polymer chain, it may be, for example, an α-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0145] The hydrophobic groups of the polyurethanes of formula (Ia) can also be produced by the quaternization reaction of a tertiary amine of a compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic groups are introduced via a quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the RQ or R'Q type, wherein R and R' are as defined above and Q indicates a leaving group, such as a halide, sulfate, etc.

[0146] Cationic associative polyurethanes may also contain a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound included in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. Mixtures in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is relatively low are also possible.

[0147] The functional group containing a labile hydrogen is an alcohol, a primary or secondary amine, or a thiol functional group.The compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain end with one of these functional groups containing a labile hydrogen.

[0148] By way of example, when it is not a polymer, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0149] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides or mixtures of these polymers.The hydrophilic compound is preferably a polyether and in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0150] The hydrophilic group referred to as Y in formula (Ia) is optional. In particular, units containing quaternary amine or protonated amine functional groups may be sufficient to provide the required solubility or water dispersibility in aqueous solutions for polymers of this type.

[0151] Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such a group are preferred.

[0152] Advantageously, the associative polyurethane is chosen from polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

[0153] Preferably, the associative polyurethane is chosen from nonionic associative polyurethanes, preferably from those comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferably from polyether-polyurethanes, even more preferably from the copolymer PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecyl ether-20 ether, HDI / HMDI / SMDI / IPDI / polyurethane copolymer, PPG-51 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-12 / SMD copolymer, HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, PEG-8 / SMDI copolymer and mixtures thereof, better still from the copolymer PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecyl ether-20 ether.

[0154] Advantageously, the total content of associative polyurethanes ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] Advantageously, the total content of nonionic associative polyurethanes ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] Advantageously, the total content of nonionic associative polyurethane comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] Cationic polymers

[0158] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one cationic polymer different from the associative polyurethanes described above.

[0159] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer different from the associative polyurethanes described above.

[0160] The cationic polymer is not a silicone polymer, ie it does not contain silicon atoms.

[0161] The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. Preferred cationic polymers are selected from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups, which groups may form part of the polymer backbone or may be carried by pendant substituents directly attached thereto.

[0162] Cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a molecular weight between about 500 and 5×10 6 between and preferably around 10 3 With 3×10 6 The weight average molar mass (Mw) between.

[0163] Among the cationic polymers, mention may more particularly be made of:

[0164] (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from esters or amides of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and comprising at least one of the units having the formula:

[0165]

[0166] in:

[0167] -R3, which may be the same or different, indicates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group;

[0168] -A, which may be the same or different, represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0169] - R4, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, represent an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0170] - R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl or ethyl group;

[0171] -X indicates an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methylsulfate anion or a halide ion such as chloride or bromide.

[0172] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be selected from the family of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C1-C4) alkyl groups, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or their esters, vinyl lactams (such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam) and vinyl esters.

[0173] Among the copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

[0174] - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with dimethyl halide, such as the products sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

[0175] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba Geigy,

[0176] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methylsulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0177] - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as copolymers 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573;

[0178] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0179] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by the company ISP;

[0180] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS100 by the company ISP;

[0181] Preferably, crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as those obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, said homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with ethylenically unsaturated compounds, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. More particularly, use may be made of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is manufactured by the company Ciba under the name SC 92. Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers in mineral oil or in liquid esters containing about 50% by weight of homopolymer may also be used. These dispersions are marketed by Ciba under the name SC 95 and SC 96 sold;

[0182] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulose and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0183] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold by Amerchol under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M). These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have been reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0184] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose or hydroxypropylcellulose, grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly those sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.

[0185] Cationic galactomannan gums are more particularly described in US Pat. No. 3,589,578 and US Pat. No. 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (e.g., chloride) are used. Such products are sold, in particular, by Rhodia under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C 17, and Jaguar C162;

[0186] (3) polymers composed of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing linear or branched chains, which may be interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings; and also oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers;

[0187] (4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, in particular prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, diunsaturated derivatives, dihalohydrins, diazetidiniums, dihaloacyldiamines, dialkyl halides or, alternatively, with oligomers resulting from the reaction of reactive bifunctional compounds with dihalohydrins, diazetidiniums, dihaloacyldiamines, dialkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides or diunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent is used in a proportion ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, may be quaternized;

[0188] (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional reagents; mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold by Sandoz under the names Cartaretine F, F4 or F8;

[0189] (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylenepolyamine comprising two primary and at least one secondary amino group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylenepolyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amino groups of the polyaminoamide of preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular by Hercosett 57 or, in the case of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymers, by Hercosett under the names PD 170 or Delsette>>01;

[0190] (7) Cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers containing as the main components of the chain the units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

[0191]

[0192] in

[0193] -k and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum of k + t is equal to 1;

[0194] -R 12 Indicates a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0195] -R 10 and R 11 independently of one another, indicate C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C4 amidoalkyl; or alternatively, R 10 and R 11 Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl may be indicated; R 10 and R 11 Independently of one another, preferably indicate C1-C4-alkyl;

[0196] -Y -is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0197] Mention may be made more particularly of homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt (for example chloride), such as sold under the name Merquat 100 by Nalco, and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt (for example chloride) and acrylamide, such as Polyquaternium-7. These copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt and acrylamide may be sold in particular under the names Merquat 550, Merquat 7SPR, Merquat 550PR or Flocare C107;

[0198] (8) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of the formula:

[0199]

[0200] in:

[0201] -R 13 、R 14 、R 15 and R 16 , which may be the same or different, represent an aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or a C1-C 12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group;

[0202] Or another R 13 、R 14 、R 15 and R 16 together or separately with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocyclic ring optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;

[0203] Or another R 13 、R 14 、R 15 and R 16 Indicates nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR 17 -D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group substituted straight or branched C1-C6 alkyl, wherein R 17 is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0204] - A1 and B1 represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, urea, amide or ester groups attached to or inserted into the main chain, and

[0205] X - represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

[0206] It should be understood that A1, R 13 and R 15 can form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached;

[0207] Furthermore, if A1 indicates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 may also indicate a group (CH2) n -CO-D-OC-(CH2) p -, wherein n and p, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D indicates:

[0208] a) diol residues of the formula -OZO-, in which Z indicates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O) x -CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O] y -CH2CH(CH3)-, wherein x and y indicate integers from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4, representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0209] b) bis-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives;

[0210] c) diprimary diamine residues of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y indicates a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or another divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0211] d) a ureidene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0212] Preferably, X - These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100 000.

[0213] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers composed of recurring units corresponding to the following formula:

[0214]

[0215] wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be the same or different, indicate an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X - It is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

[0216] Particularly preferred compounds of formula (IV) are those in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent methyl, n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, which are known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature;

[0217] (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

[0218]

[0219] in:

[0220] -R 18 、R 19 、R 20 and R 21 , which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) p OH group, wherein p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, wherein R 18 、R 19 、R 20 and R 21 does not represent hydrogen atoms at the same time, and

[0221] - r and s, which may be the same or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0222] -q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

[0223] -X - Indicator anions, such as halides,

[0224] -A indicates a divalent dihalide group or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0225] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Miranol A 15. AD1, AZ1 and 175;

[0226] (10) Tetrapolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as those marketed by BASF under the name Products sold under the FC 905, FC 550, and FC 370;

[0227] (11) Polyamines, such as those sold by Cognis H, is mentioned in the CTFA dictionary by the name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine;

[0228] (12) Polymers containing in their structure:

[0229] (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A):

[0230]

[0231] (b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to the following formula (B):

[0232]

[0233] In other words, these polymers may especially be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0234] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising in their structure from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 mol% to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 mol% to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0235] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or alkaline medium.

[0236] The weight-average molecular weight of the polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.

[0237] Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are especially sold under the name Lupamin by BASF, for example, without limitation, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0238] Other cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates; polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines; polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units; condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin; quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

[0239] Preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from those of the above mentioned families (1), (2), (7) and (10).

[0240] Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, cationic polymers that can be preferably used are cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulose and cationic galactomannan gum, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives (such as the product sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amergo), cationic cyclized polymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) (sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by Nalco Company), quaternary ammonium polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0241] Preferably, the cationic polymers, when they are present in the composition, are chosen from cationic polysaccharides, cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium and mixtures thereof, preferably from cationic galactomannan gum, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cationic guar gum, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide and mixtures thereof, better still from copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide and mixtures thereof.

[0242] Advantageously, the total content of cationic polymers ranges from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] Advantageously, the total content of cationic polymers chosen from cationic polysaccharides, cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001% to 1% by weight and better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0244] Advantageously, the total content of cationic polymers chosen from cationic guar gum, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0245] Polysaccharides other than cationic polymers

[0246] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide different from a cationic polymer, which is preferably chosen from nonionic polysaccharides.

[0247] Polysaccharides, unlike cationic polymers, are not silicone polymers.

[0248] The nonionic polysaccharide is preferably selected from cellulose, starch, galactomannans, scleroglucans and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular ethers or esters thereof, alone or as a mixture.

[0249] These polymers may be modified physically or chemically. As physical treatments, temperature may be mentioned, and as chemical treatments, esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions may be mentioned, as long as these treatments make it possible to obtain nonionic polymers.

[0250] As galactomannans that can be used, mention may be made of nonionic guar gum which may be modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0251] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkylene oxides, for example propylene oxide, with guar gum in order to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0252] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0253] Such nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI.

[0254] The plant origin of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention can be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starch is selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch. The starch can be chemically or physically modified, in particular, by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, cross-linking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0255] The starch molecule may be derived from any plant source of starch, such as corn, potato, oat, rice, cassava, sorghum, barley or wheat, among others. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0256] Nonionic polysaccharides can also be polysaccharides that do not contain C 10 -C 30 A cellulose-based polymer of fatty chains.

[0257] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based" polymer refers to any polysaccharide compound carrying in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked together by β-1,4 bonds; the cellulose-based polymer may be a derivative of unsubstituted cellulose and / or nonionic cellulose.

[0258] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses (including those in microcrystalline form), and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether-esters.

[0259] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g. Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g. Natrosol 250HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g. Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (e.g. Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose (e.g. Bermocoll E 481FQ from AkzoNobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose.

[0260] Scleroglucan is a nonionic branched homopolysaccharide composed of β-D-glucan units. The molecule consists of a linear backbone of D-glucose units linked via β(1,3) bonds, with one of the three units linked to a side D-glucose unit via a β(1,6) bond.

[0261]

[0262] These polysaccharides are obtained by fermenting a culture medium based on sugars and mineral salts under the action of microorganisms of the Sclerotium type, such as Sclerotium glucanium and Sclerotium rolfsii. A more complete description of scleroglucans and their preparation can be found in US Pat. No. 3,301,848.

[0263] Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigel by Alban Muller or Actigum by Cargill. TM CS sales.

[0264] As further polysaccharides according to the invention, mention may also be made of xanthan gum, gum arabic and modified starch (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate).

[0265] Preferably, the polysaccharide different from the cationic polymer is chosen from nonionic polysaccharides, preferably from scleroglucans, hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from scleroglucans, in particular Sclerotium truncatum gum produced by the bacterium Sclerotium truncatum, which is a gum of microbial origin.

[0266] Advantageously, the total content of polysaccharides other than cationic polymers ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0267] Advantageously, the total content of nonionic polysaccharides ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] Advantageously, the total content of scleroglucans ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0269] amino silicone

[0270] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aminosilicone.

[0271] The term "aminosilicone" denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or quaternary ammonium group.

[0272] The aminosilicones that can be used according to the invention can be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a carbonyl group at 25° C. ranging from 5×10 -6 Up to 2.5m2 / s, for example 1×10 -5 Up to 1m 2 / s viscosity.

[0273] Preferably, the aminosilicones according to the invention are not oxyalkylenated.

[0274] Preferably, the aminosilicone is selected from the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0275] a) Polysiloxane corresponding to formula (A):

[0276]

[0277] wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is approximately between 5000 and 500 000;

[0278] b) aminosilicone corresponding to formula (B):

[0279] R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG2) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a’ -R' a’ (B)

[0280] in:

[0281] -G, which may be the same or different, indicates a hydrogen atom or a group derived from phenyl, OH, C1-C8 alkyl (e.g., methyl), or C1-C8 alkoxy (e.g., methoxy);

[0282] a and a', which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, wherein at least one of a and a' is equal to zero,

[0283] -b indicates 0 or 1, especially 1,

[0284] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly indicating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly indicating a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0285] -R', which can be the same or different, indicates the formula -C q H 2q L is a monovalent group, wherein q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amine group selected from the group consisting of: -N(R")2; -N + (R”)3A- ; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3A - , wherein R ″, which may be the same or different, indicates hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, such as C1-C 20 Alkyl; Q indicates formula C r H 2r A linear or branched group, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A - denotes a cosmetically acceptable anion, especially a halide anion, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0286] Preferably, the aminosilicone is selected from aminosilicones of formula (B). Preferably, the aminosilicone of formula (B) is selected from aminosilicones corresponding to the following formulae (C), (D), (E), (F), (G), alone or as a mixture:

[0287] 1 / "Trimethylsilylaminodimethicone" silicone corresponding to formula (C):

[0288]

[0289] wherein m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n may possibly indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m may possibly indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0290] 2 / Silicone of the following formula (D):

[0291]

[0292] in:

[0293] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n may possibly indicate a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m may possibly indicate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0294] - R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R1 to R3 representing an alkoxy group.

[0295] Preferably, the alkoxy group is methoxy.

[0296] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0297] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000;

[0298] 3 / Silicone of the following formula (E):

[0299]

[0300] in:

[0301] - p and q are numbers such that the sum of (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p may indicate a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q may indicate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0302] - R1 and R2 are different and represent a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, and at least one of the groups R1 or R2 represents an alkoxy group.

[0303] Preferably, the alkoxy group is methoxy.

[0304] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and is more particularly equal to 1:0.95.

[0305] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.

[0306] Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may contain in their composition one or more other aminosilicones having a structure different from that of formula (D) or (E).

[0307] Products containing aminosilicone of structure (D) are marketed by Wacker under the name ADM 652 sales.

[0308] Products containing aminosilicone of structure (E) are marketed by Wacker under the name Fluid WR Or by name ADM LOG 1 sales.

[0309] When using these aminosilicones, it is particularly advantageous to use them in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. The oil-in-water emulsions may contain one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature, but are preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is generally in the range of 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, in particular as aminosilicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used with an average particle size in the range of from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, according to the invention, the microemulsions manufactured by Wacker under the name Finish CT 96 can be used. or SLM Aminosilicone microemulsion of formula (E) sold;

[0310] 4 / Silicone of the following formula (F):

[0311]

[0312] in:

[0313] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly indicating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly indicating a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0314] -A indicates a straight-chain or branched, preferably straight-chain, alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms.

[0315] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.

[0316] Another silicone corresponding to formula (B) is, for example, Xiameter MEM8299 emulsion from Dow Corning (INCI name: Amodimethicone, Trideceth-6, and Cetyltrimonium Chloride);

[0317] 5 / Silicone of the following formula (G):

[0318]

[0319] in:

[0320] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly indicating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly indicating a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0321] -A indicates a linear or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

[0322] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1 000 to 200 000.

[0323] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0324] c) aminosilicone corresponding to formula (H):

[0325]

[0326] in:

[0327] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C1-C 18 Alkyl or C2-C 18 alkenyl groups, such as methyl;

[0328] -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially C1-C 18 Alkylene, or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkyleneoxy groups are connected to Si via SiC bonds;

[0329] -Q - is an anion, such as a halide, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;

[0330] -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and particularly from 2 to 8;

[0331] -s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and particularly from 20 to 50.

[0332] Aminosilicones of this type are described, inter alia, in patent US Pat. No. 4,185,087.

[0333] d) Quaternary ammonium silicone of formula (I):

[0334]

[0335] in:

[0336] - R7, which may be the same or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 alkenyl or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl;

[0337] -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially C1-C 18 Alkylene, or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkyleneoxy groups are connected to Si via SiC bonds;

[0338] - R8, which may be the same or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a hydrocarbon-based monovalent group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 Alkenyl or group -R6-NHCOR7;

[0339] -X - is an anion, such as a halide, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;

[0340] -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and particularly from 5 to 100.

[0341] These silicones are described, for example, in patent EP-A0 530 974;

[0342] e) Aminosilicone of formula (J):

[0343]

[0344] in:

[0345] - R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be the same or different, indicate a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,

[0346] -R5 indicates a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0347] -n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0348] -m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0349] - x is selected so that the amine value ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0350] f)(AB) n A multi-block polyoxyalkylene aminosilicone of the type A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylene block containing at least one amine group.

[0351] The silicone is preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formula:

[0352] [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -R'-N(H)-R-]

[0353] or alternatively

[0354] [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -]

[0355] in:

[0356] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0357] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0358] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0359] -R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0360] -R, which can be the same or different, represents a linear or branched divalent C2-C 12 a hydrocarbon group, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R indicates an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a group CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2-; preferably, R indicates a group CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2-;

[0361] -R', which can be the same or different, represents a linear or branched divalent C2-C 12 A hydrocarbon group, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' indicates ethylene, linear or branched propylene, linear or branched butylene or the group CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2-; preferably, R' indicates -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0362] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol%, more particularly 70 to 85 mol%, of the total weight of the silicone.

[0363] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2 meq / g, of the copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol.

[0364] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000 and more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

[0365] Mention may especially be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by the company Momentive;

[0366] (g) Aminosilicones of formula (L) and (M):

[0367]

[0368] in:

[0369] -R, R' and R", which may be the same or different, indicate a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group;

[0370] -A indicates a C3 alkylene group; and

[0371] - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000;

[0372]

[0373] in:

[0374] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0375] - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, indicate a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0376] -A indicates a straight-chain or branched alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0377] Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched.

[0378] The following divalent groups may be mentioned in particular:

[0379] -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0380] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).

[0381] The aminosilicone preferably has formula (M) wherein:

[0382] -x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

[0383] -y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0384] -A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0385] - R1 and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; in particular chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).

[0386] A preferred silicone of formula (M) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the aminosilicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by the company Momentive;

[0387] h) Polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amino groups only at one chain end or in a side chain, such as those of the formula (N), (O) or (P):

[0388]

[0389] or

[0390] H2NCH2CH2CH2-Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O] n -Si(CH3)2C4H9 (O)

[0391] or

[0392]

[0393] In formula (N), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 1,000 and 55,000.

[0394] As examples of aminosilicones of formula (N), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu. The compound of formula (N) has the INCI name Aminopropyl Dimethicone.

[0395] In formula (O), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 3,000.

[0396] As examples of aminosilicone of formula (O), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Geist, such as monoaminopropyl-terminated polydimethicone (INCI name).

[0397] In formula (P), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 50,000.

[0398] As examples of aminosilicone of formula (P), mention may be made of aminopropylphenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning;

[0399] i) and mixtures thereof.

[0400] Advantageously, the aminosilicone is preferably selected from aminosilicone of formula (B), aminosilicone of formula (N), aminosilicone of formula (O), and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from aminosilicone of formula (N), aminosilicone of formula (O), and mixtures thereof.

[0401] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aminosilicone chosen from aminosilicones of formula (N), aminosilicones of formula (O) and mixtures thereof, preferably from aminosilicones of formula (N), more preferably from aminopropyldimethicone.

[0402] Advantageously, the total content of aminosilicone ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0403] Advantageously, the total content of aminosilicone (B) and advantageously (N) and / or (O) ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0404] Advantageously, the total aminopropyl dimethicone content ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0405] Non-silicone fatty substances

[0406] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one non-silicone fatty substance, that is to say a non-silicone fatty substance not comprising silicon atoms.

[0407] The term "fatty substance" means a substance which is a substance which is 5 Fatty substances are organic compounds that are insoluble in water at 400 psi (less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF) or liquid petroleum under the same conditions of temperature and pressure.

[0408] The non-silicone fatty substances which can be used according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0409] Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substance according to the invention is not a fatty acid.

[0410] The non-silicone fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. The term "liquid fatty substance" means a substance which is liquid at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10 5 Pa) of fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, and the term "solid fatty substances" means fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Fatty substances with a melting point greater than 25°C at 120°C.

[0411] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC), as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the one sold by TA Instruments under the name MDSC 2920. In the present patent application, all melting points are at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa) is determined.

[0412] More particularly, the liquid fatty material may be selected from C6 to C 16 Liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0413] It is contemplated that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids contain more particularly at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical containing 6 to 40 and better still 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally be substituted, in particular, with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0414] About C6-C 16 Liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched or optionally cyclic and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include:

[0415] -Branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, such as C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls,

[0416] -Straight chain C8-C 16 Alkanes, such as n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ) (sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97), n-undecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane mixtures (Cetiol UT), n-undecane obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Corning (Cetiol UT), 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ), and mixtures thereof.

[0417] The liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched and of inorganic or synthetic origin and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffin or liquid vaseline (or mineral oil), polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as and mixtures thereof.

[0418] A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

[0419] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, or alternatively, such as sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, aronia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois in France or by Dynamit Nobel under the name 810, 812 and 818), jojoba oil and shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0420] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, which are marketed by BNFL Fluorochemicals under the name PC1 and PC3 is sold as perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes, such as those sold by 3M under the name PF and PF Dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane are sold or marketed by Atochem under the name Perfluorooctyl bromide; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as those sold by 3M under the name PF 4-Trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine for sale.

[0421] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the present invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylened nor glycerinated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.

[0422] As regards the previously mentioned liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C 26 or branched C3-C 26 Aliphatic monobasic or polybasic acids and saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain C1-C 26 or branched C3-C 26 Esters of aliphatic mono- or polyhydric alcohols, the total carbon number of these esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0423] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid is branched.

[0424] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietic acid behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate ; Isostearyl palmitate; Methyl acetyl ricinoleate; Octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; Octyldodecyl erucate; Oleyl erucate; Ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; Alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0425] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0426] You can also use C4-C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C 26 Esters of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0427] Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecylstearyl stearate; pentaerythritol monoricinoleate; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl tricaprylate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0428] The composition may also contain C6-C 30 , and preferably C 12 -C 22Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids. It should be understood that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds with several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described previously.

[0429] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0430] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the sugars described above and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 And preferably C 12 -C 22 Esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0431] The esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0432] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonic acid esters or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate.

[0433] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleyl palmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0434] An example that may be mentioned is the company AMGRO under the name A product sold by DO which is methyl glucose dioleate.

[0435] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a liquid monoacid and a monoalcohol ester.

[0436] Solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity at 25°C and in 1 s -1 The viscosity is greater than 2 Pa.s measured at a shear rate of .

[0437] The solid fatty substances that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0438] The term "fatty alcohol" is understood to mean long-chain fatty alcohols containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0439] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, wherein R represents a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, containing from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0440] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (mono)alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0441] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from the following, alone or as a mixture: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanol (or 1-octacosanol); beeswax alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0442] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0443] Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0444] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably selected from the group consisting of fatty acids derived from C9-C 26 Carboxylic acid fatty acid and / or C9-C 26 Esters of fatty alcohols.

[0445] Preferably, the solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and a linear or branched saturated monohydric alcohol containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acid may optionally be hydroxylated and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0446] You can also use C4-C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C 26 Esters of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0447] Mention may especially be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0448] Preferably, the solid ester of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol is selected from palmitic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, and myristyl myristate; and stearic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0449] For the purposes of the present invention, waxes are lipophilic compounds that are solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, have reversible solid / liquid phase transitions, have a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be as high as 200°C, and have an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving a generally opaque, turbid appearance to the composition containing them. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with the oil and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but when the temperature of the mixture is returned to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0450] In particular, the waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0451] Mention may especially be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax (especially of biological origin), lanolin wax and Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cocoa wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax and zeolites; polyethylene wax, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and wax copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0452] You can also mention C 20 -C 60 Microcrystalline wax, such as Microwax HW.

[0453] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.

[0454] Mention may also be made of the catalytic hydrogenation of 32 Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oils, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oils, especially those marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference No. Products manufactured or sold, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, especially by Heterene under the name Hest Products sold.

[0455] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name Phytowax Castor by the company Sophim. and Those that are sold.

[0456] Waxes that can also be used are C, alone or as a mixture 20 -C 40 Alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms). This wax is especially marketed by Koster Keunen under the name KesterWax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K 82 and Kester Wax K 80 Sale.

[0457] Microwaxes may also be used in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microcrystalline waxes, such as those marketed under the name MicroCare by Micro Powders. Products sold; synthetic wax microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by American Micronized Powder Company under the name MicroEase Products sold; microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as that sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care and Products sold; Microcrystalline wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic waxes, such as those sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micro Care Products sold; polyethylene microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by the American Micronized Company under the name Micropoly and Products sold; and polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline wax, such as those sold by the American Micronized Powder Company under the name Microslip and Products sold.

[0458] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, such as paraffin, vaseline, montan or ozokerite; vegetable waxes, such as cocoa butter or cork or sugarcane wax, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, carnauba wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, phragmites wax or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the blackcurrant flower essence wax sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0459] The ceramides or ceramide analogs such as glycoceramides that can be used in the composition according to the invention are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0460] The ceramide or its analogue that can be used preferably corresponds to the following formula: R 3 CH(OH)CH(CH2OR 2 )(NHCOR 1 ),in:

[0461] R 1 Indicates a derivative of C 14 -C 30 A linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical of a fatty acid, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the α position or a hydroxyl group in the Ω position, which may be substituted by a saturated or unsaturated C 16 -C 30 fatty acid esterification;

[0462] R 2 Indicates hydrogen atoms, (sugar group)n Group, (galactosyl) m group or sulfogalactosyl, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0463] R 3 Instructions based on C 15 -C 26 A hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated at the α position, which may be replaced by one or more C1-C 14 Alkyl substitution; it is understood that in the case of natural ceramide or glycosylceramide, R 3 You can also indicate C 15 -C 26 α-hydroxyalkyl, the hydroxy group is optionally replaced by C 16 -C 30 α-Hydroxyesterification.

[0464] More particularly preferred ceramides are compounds wherein R 1 Indicates a derivative of C 16 -C 22 Saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of fatty acid; R 2 indicates a hydrogen atom, and R 3 Indicating saturated straight chain C 15 group.

[0465] Preferably, ceramides are used, wherein R 1 Indicates a derivative of C 14 -C 30 Saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of fatty acid; R 2 indicates galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl; and R 3 Indicator -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.

[0466] Compounds in which R 1 Indicates a derivative of C 12 -C 22 Saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of fatty acid; R 2 indicates galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl; and R 3 Indicates saturated or unsaturated based on C 12 -C 22 A hydrocarbon group, and preferably -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.

[0467] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and In particular, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyl sphingosine, N-oleoyl sphingosine, N-palmitoyl sphingosine, N-stearoyl sphingosine, and N-behenoyl sphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyl sphingosine is used.

[0468] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl stearyl / cetearyl alcohol, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl stearyl alcohol.

[0469] Grease may also be used.

[0470] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat" (also referred to as "pasty fatty substance") is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid phase transition, comprising a liquid portion and a solid portion at a temperature of 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Preferably, the fat according to the invention has an onset melting temperature above 25° C. and an end melting temperature below 60° C.

[0471] Preferably, the particular fats are of vegetable origin, such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: June 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, Point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0472] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo tallow or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (cocoa butter), butter) and sunflower butter.

[0473] An example of a preferred fat is shea butter.

[0474] Shea butter is extracted in a known manner from the fruit of the shea tree (also called the "kernel" or "nut"). Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fat, which is usually extracted and refined.

[0475] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, more preferably from C6-C 16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably selected from branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, straight chain C8-C 16 Alkanes, monoesters of monohydric alcohols and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from branched C 11 -C 15 Alkanes, straight chain C 11 -C 15 The alkanes, monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof, are even better still chosen from isododecane, n-undecane, tridecane, isononyl isononanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0476] Advantageously, the total content of non-silicone fatty substances ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight, even better still from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0477] Advantageously, the total content of liquid non-silicone fatty substances ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight, even better still from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0478] polyols

[0479] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyol different from the fatty alcohols mentioned above.

[0480] Preferably, the polyol is a C3-C8 polyol or a C3-C8 polyol ether. They preferably contain 2 to 4, better still 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0481] Examples that may be mentioned include: glycerol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0482] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, preferably chosen from butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0483] Advantageously, the total content of polyols ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 2% to 10% by weight, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0484] Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and their salts

[0485] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one compound chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), their salts and / or mixtures thereof.

[0486] The α-hydroxy acids are preferably chosen from acids containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms, better still from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0487] Preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from those comprising at least 2 COOH functional groups.

[0488] The α-hydroxy acid is preferably selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from citric acid and salts thereof, such as sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

[0489] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, its salt and / or mixture thereof, preferably chosen from citric acid, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

[0490] Advantageously, the total content of alpha-hydroxy acids and / or salts thereof ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0491] The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous, the water content preferably ranging from 50% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, even more preferably from 65% to 90% by weight, better still from 70% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0492] Preferably, the pH of the composition according to the invention is acidic, ranging from 1 to 6.5, preferably from 3 to 6.

[0493] additive

[0494] The compositions according to the invention may also contain additives used in cosmetics other than the ingredients of the invention mentioned above, and among these there may be mentioned cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, hair loss agents and / or hair regrowth agents, vitamins (including tocopherols and provitamins), sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, chelating agents, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidulants, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0495] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0496] One of ordinary skill in the art will carefully select these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not compromise the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0497] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

[0498] (a) at least one amino acid, its salt and / or mixture thereof, chosen from glycine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, polylysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, its salts and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0499] (b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from nonionic associative polyurethanes, advantageously present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0500] (c) optionally at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic polysaccharides, cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001% to 1% by weight and better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0501] (d) at least one polysaccharide different from the cationic polymer, chosen from nonionic polysaccharides, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0502] (e) at least one aminosilicone chosen from aminosilicone of formula (B) as defined above, aminosilicone of formula (N) as defined above, aminosilicone of formula (O) as defined above and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0503] More preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

[0504] (a) at least one amino acid, salt thereof and / or mixture thereof, chosen from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0505] (b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from nonionic associative polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0506] (c) optionally at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0507] (d) at least one polysaccharide different from the cationic polymer, chosen from scleroglucan, hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0508] (e) at least one aminosilicone chosen from aminosilicone of formula (N) as defined above, aminosilicone of formula (O) as defined above and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0509] Even better, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

[0510] (a) at least one amino acid, salt thereof and / or mixture thereof, chosen from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0511] (b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from nonionic polyether-polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0512] (c) optionally, at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic guar gum, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.00001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0513] (d) at least one polysaccharide different from the cationic polymer, chosen from scleroglucans, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0514] (e) at least one aminosilicone chosen from aminopropyldimethicone, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0515] A subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising applying to said keratin materials, in particular to said keratin fibers, a composition as defined above.

[0516] The composition according to the invention can be applied to wet or dry keratin material which has optionally been washed, for example with a shampoo.Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin material, in particular wet keratin fibers.

[0517] The keratin material can then be rinsed with water and / or can optionally be washed with a shampoo, subsequently rinsed with water and then dried or left to dry.

[0518] The keratin material is preferably not rinsed after application of the composition.

[0519] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a leave-on product.

[0520] A subject of the present invention is also the use of a composition as defined above for conditioning keratin materials, especially keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0521] The composition can be used on wet or dry hair, in rinse-off or leave-on mode, and preferably in leave-on mode (that is to say without rinsing the keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, after application of the composition).

[0522] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention but are not limiting in nature. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0523] Examples

[0524] In the following examples and unless otherwise indicated, all amounts are indicated as mass percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0525] Example 1

[0526] Composition A according to the invention and comparative composition B were prepared from the following ingredients:

[0527] [Table 1]

[0528]

[0529]

[0530] A composition is obtained which can be used as a leave-in hair care composition.

[0531] 3 g of composition A and composition B were applied to the hair of 6 volunteers (medium to long hair, sensitization 3 or 4 (this is the level of fiber damage, where natural hair corresponds to a sensitization equal to 0)) on half the head of wet hair previously washed with shampoo.

[0532] The composition is left on the hair for 2 minutes and then the hair is dried using a hairdryer (standardized blow drying).

[0533] The two compositions were blindly evaluated by experts based on the following criteria: smooth feel (on wet and dry hair), coating (on dry hair), shine (on dry hair) and ease of combing through hair (on dry hair).

[0534] These evaluations are carried out on wet hair (before drying with a hairdryer) and on dry hair after application of the care composition.

[0535] Evaluation of smoothness standards

[0536] To assess the smoothness criterion, the expert holds the lock of hair between the thumb and index finger and slides his or her fingers along the lock from the top to the end. He or she assesses whether there are any bumps in the hair or whether the fingers have been hooked in the hair.

[0537] Evaluation of coating standards

[0538] To assess the coating standard, the expert holds the lock between the thumb and index finger and slides his or her finger along the lock from the top to the end. He or she assesses the presence of coating on the fiber (presence of product); the more coated the fiber, the more product is deposited and, in the present case, the slipperier it feels due to the presence of silicone.

[0539] Evaluation of gloss standards

[0540] To assess the glossiness standard, the expert wraps a lock of hair around two fingers, pulls it enough to make it taut, then places himself or herself under a standardized lamp (light box) and tilts the lock at different angles to visually judge the glossiness level. A glossy lock is characterized by the fact that it reflects light particularly well; therefore, it has a specific radiance.

[0541] Evaluation of the criteria for ease of combing through

[0542] To assess the ease of combing, the expert holds the lock with one hand and, with the other, moves the fine teeth of a comb from the top to the end. If the comb gets stuck, the expert repeats the same motion with the larger teeth of the comb. Easy combing is characterized by the fine teeth being able to pass through the hair without getting stuck.

[0543] The following results were obtained:

[0544] [Table 2]

[0545]

[0546]

[0547] It is thus found that composition A according to the invention makes it possible to obtain significantly better cosmetic properties than comparative composition B in terms of gloss on dry hair, coating of the fibers and ease of combing through, and in terms of its smooth feel properties on dry and wet hair.

[0548] Example 2

[0549] Composition C according to the invention is prepared from the following ingredients:

[0550] [Table 3]

[0551]

[0552]

[0553] A composition is obtained which can be used as a leave-in hair care composition.

[0554] 6 g of composition C were applied to shampooed, pre-wet hair (sensitized hair).

[0555] The composition was left on the hair for 2 minutes and then the hair was dried with a hairdryer.

[0556] Composition C according to the invention has good use qualities and enables very good cosmetic properties to be achieved.

[0557] In particular, the composition according to the invention is easy to apply and spread on the hair. It has a unique, smooth and melting texture.

[0558] With the aid of composition C, very good detangling of the hair is obtained. Composition C also makes it possible to give the hair a smooth feel. It also contributes to giving the hair shine and manageability (ease of combing).

[0559] Multiple applications of copper removal

[0560] Six hair tresses (Caucasian, sensitized SA20) were pre-enriched with copper in an amount of approximately 160 ppm / g hair.

[0561] Three of these hair tresses were then treated with composition C according to the invention.

[0562] The copper content of the treated tresses was then measured and compared to the copper content of the remaining untreated tresses (control tresses).

[0563] Control group plan

[0564] Three control tresses were subjected to the following cycles:

[0565] The hair tresses were wetted and washed with 0.55 g of DOP shampoo per gram of tress. The tresses were then rinsed with water at 30° C. at a rate of 20 passes between the fingers and then dried with a hairdryer for 5 minutes.

[0566] Protocol for tresses treated with composition C

[0567] Three tresses treated with composition C were subjected to the following cycles:

[0568] 0.15 g of composition C per gram of tress was applied to each tress. The tress was dried with a hairdryer for 5 minutes. The tress was then moistened and washed with 0.55 g of DOP shampoo per gram of tress. The tress was then rinsed with water at 35°C at a rate of 20 passes between the fingers and then dried with a hairdryer for 5 minutes.

[0569] The protocol for the tresses treated with composition C and the control tresses was repeated for 10 cycles.

[0570] At the end of cycles 1, 5 and 10, 20 micrograms of hair were removed from the tresses and cut into small pieces for analysis.

[0571] The copper content of the tresses was determined using a spectrometer according to the ICP / OES method. The following results were obtained (average value of 3 tresses):

[0572] [Table 4]

[0573]

[0574] Compared to the shampoo alone, composition C according to the invention leads to a better removal of copper ions.

[0575] The improved removal of copper ions is noticeable from the first application of composition C: a 25% reduction in the copper content present in the hair is observed for the tresses treated with composition C according to the invention, while no change is observed for the control tresses.

[0576] The improved copper ion removal with composition C was even more pronounced after 5 and 10 cycles compared to the removal observed with shampoo alone.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one amino acid, a salt thereof and / or a mixture thereof; (b) at least one associative polyurethane; (c) optionally at least one cationic polymer; (d) at least one polysaccharide different from the cationic polymer; and (e) at least one aminosilicone.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The amino acid is selected from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, even more preferably selected from glycine and arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The total content of the amino acids, their salts and / or mixtures thereof, preferably glycine and / or arginine and / or their salts and / or mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The total content of the amino acids, their salts and / or mixtures thereof, preferably glycine and / or arginine and / or their salts and / or mixtures thereof, is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The associative polyurethane is chosen from nonionic associative polyurethanes, preferably from those comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The total content of associative polyurethanes ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The cationic polymer is selected from the following families of polymers: a homopolymer or copolymer derived from an ester or amide of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and comprising at least one of the units of the formula: in: -R3, which may be the same or different, indicates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; -A, which may be the same or different, represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, represent an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl or ethyl group; -X indicates an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methylsulfate anion or a halide ion such as a chloride ion or a bromide ion; - cationic polysaccharides; -alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclized polymers; - quaternary ammonium polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; Preferably, it is selected from cationic polysaccharides, cyclized polymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from cationic galactomannan gum, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from cationic guar gum, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, and mixtures thereof, and even better selected from copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The polysaccharide different from the cationic polymer is selected from nonionic polysaccharides, preferably from scleroglucan, hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from scleroglucan.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The total content of polysaccharides other than the cationic polymers ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The amino silicone is selected from: - aminosilicone of the following formula (A): wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is approximately between 5000 and 500 000; - aminosilicone of the following formula (B): R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG2) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a’ -R' a’ (B) in: -G, which may be the same or different, indicates a hydrogen atom or a group derived from phenyl, OH, C1-C8 alkyl such as methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy such as methoxy; a and a', which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, wherein at least one of a and a' is equal to zero, -b indicates 0 or 1, especially 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly indicating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly indicating a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; -R', which can be the same or different, indicates the formula -C q H 2q L is a monovalent group, wherein q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amine group selected from the group consisting of: -N(R")2; -N + (R”)3A - ;-NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-QN + (R”)3A - , wherein R ″, which may be the same or different, indicates hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, such as C1-C 20 Alkyl; Q indicates formula C r H 2r A linear or branched group, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A - means a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide anion such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide; - an aminosilicone corresponding to formula (H): in: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C1-C 18 Alkyl or C2-C 18 alkenyl groups, such as methyl; -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially C1-C 18 Alkylene, or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkyleneoxy groups are connected to Si via SiC bonds; -Q - is an anion, such as a halide, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and particularly from 2 to 8; -s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and particularly from 20 to 50; - quaternary ammonium-containing silicones of formula (I): in: - R7, which may be the same or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 alkenyl or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl; -R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially C1-C 18 Alkylene, or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkyleneoxy groups are connected to Si via SiC bonds; - R8, which may be the same or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a hydrocarbon-based monovalent group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 Alkenyl or group -R6-NHCOR7; -X - is an anion, such as a halide, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; -r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and particularly from 5 to 100; - Aminosilicone of formula (J): in: - R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be the same or different, indicate a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, -R5 indicates a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, -n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, -m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is selected so that the amine value ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g; -(AB) n A multi-block polyoxyalkylene aminosilicone of the type A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylene block containing at least one amine group; - Aminosilicone of formula (L): in: -R, R' and R", which may be the same or different, indicate a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group; -A indicates a C3 alkylene group; and - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000; - Aminosilicone of formula (M): in: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, indicate a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and -A indicates a straight-chain or branched alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms; - Aminosilicone of formula (N): wherein the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 1,000 and 55,000; - Aminosilicone of formula (O): H2NCH2CH2CH2-Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O] n -Si(CH3)2C4H9 (O), wherein the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 3000; - Aminosilicone of formula (P): wherein the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the aminosilicone is between 500 and 50,000; - and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from the aminosilicone of formula (N), the aminosilicone of formula (O) and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the aminosilicone of formula (N).

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The total content of aminosilicone ranges from 0.01% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, more preferably from C6 to C 16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably selected from branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, straight chain C8-C 16 Alkanes, monoesters of monohydric alcohols and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from branched C 11 -C 15 Alkanes, straight chain C 11 -C 15 Alkanes, monoesters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition comprises at least one polyol.

14. A method for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, preferably hair, which method comprises applying to said material a composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims.

15. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that After application of the composition, the keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibers, are not rinsed.

16. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, preferably hair.

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