Production process of cotton and linen fiber fabric

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of fabric production, and aims to provide a production process of a cotton and linen fiber fabric, the production process comprises the following procedures: raw material pretreatment, mixing and spinning, bleaching and dyeing, post-treatment and sizing treatment, in the raw material pretreatment, linen fibers are degummed by neutral pectinase, cotton fibers are desized by amylase, and the cotton fibers are subjected to post-treatment and sizing treatment; the method comprises the following steps: bleaching and dyeing linen fibers and cotton fibers, oiling the lyocell fibers, washing the bleached and dyed blended yarns with cellulase in a post-treatment link so as to reduce fuzzing balls, respectively adopting neutral pectinase and amylase when the linen fibers and the cotton fibers are pretreated so as to reduce the application of chemicals in the traditional pretreatment, so that the cost is reduced, and the production efficiency is improved. While the degumming rate and the desizing rate reach required values, the COD emission value is greatly reduced, and the pollution to the environment is greatly reduced.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of fabric production, and more particularly to a production process for cotton and linen fiber fabrics. Background Art

[0002] In the fabric production sector, cotton and linen blended fabrics are highly favored due to their excellent breathability, moisture absorption, and environmental friendliness. However, traditional production processes generally rely on highly polluting chemical reagents in raw material pretreatment, desizing, bleaching, and post-processing, resulting in a serious environmental burden. Specific drawbacks include the following: Raw material pretreatment is highly polluting: Traditional flax fiber degumming often uses a strong alkaline scouring process. While this process is highly efficient, it produces large amounts of wastewater with high COD (chemical oxygen demand) levels (up to 18,500 mg / L). The residual alkaline substances and lignin degradation products in this wastewater are highly biotoxic (with a luminous bacteria inhibition rate >90%), making treatment costly. Cotton fiber desizing often uses sodium hydroxide solution. While this achieves acceptable desizing rates, it results in significant fiber strength loss (breaking strength retention ≤86.4%). The COD level in the desizing wastewater can reach as high as 8,200 mg / L, exacerbating environmental pollution.

[0003] The bleaching process is environmentally unfriendly: existing technologies mostly rely on chemical debleaching agents such as hypochlorite or hydrogen peroxide, which not only consume a large amount of water resources, but also produce chlorine- or oxygen-containing pollutants, increasing carbon emissions and the risk of eutrophication of water bodies.

[0004] Defects in slurry proportion and sizing process: The proportion of chemical synthetic components in traditional slurries is too high, which can easily cause brittle cracking or uneven coverage of the slurry film, resulting in the release of harmful substances during the production process, and the COD value of the slurry wastewater is difficult to control.

[0005] Insufficient functionality of weaving methods: Conventional plain or twill weaves have difficulty balancing wear resistance and breathability. Frequent wear and tear can shorten the service life of fabrics, indirectly increasing resource consumption and waste generation.

[0006] These problems have severely restricted the sustainable development of cotton and linen fiber fabrics. Therefore, there is an urgent need for an efficient and low-pollution production process that can significantly reduce the environmental impact while ensuring the performance of the fabric. Summary of the Invention

[0007] In view of the problems existing in the prior art, the present invention provides a production process for cotton and linen fiber fabrics to solve the technical problems mentioned in the background technology.

[0008] To achieve the above object, the present invention provides the following technical solution: a production process for cotton and linen fiber fabrics, comprising the following steps: (1) Raw material pretreatment: 40% flax fiber, 50% lyocell fiber and 10% cotton fiber were selected and pretreated respectively. The flax fiber was degummed by neutral pectinase, the cotton fiber was desized by amylase, and the lyocell fiber was oiled. (2) Blending and spinning: The hemp fiber, lyocell fiber and cotton fiber treated in the above process (1) are subjected to at least two wool treatments, and then spun into blended yarn through the steps of cleaning, carding, drawing, coarse spinning, fine spinning and winding. (3) Bleaching and dyeing: The blended yarn spun in the above process (2) is bleached and dyed, and the color is fixed. (4) Post-treatment: The blended yarn treated in step (3) is washed with cellulase to reduce the pilling phenomenon. (5) Sizing treatment: Use composite modified starch and acrylic acid sizing as the main sizing material, and use a sizing machine to sizing the warp, and use circulating air to cool the warp after sizing. (6) Weaving: The blended yarn is fed into the rapier loom according to the warp and weft respectively to weave the blended fabric. The warp yarn loop number of the fabric is 5, 2 up, 1 down + 2 plain weaves, and 1 empty weft is inserted for every 10 weft yarns to increase the wear resistance and breathability of the fabric.

[0009] The present invention is further configured such that the material parameters of the flax fiber, lyocell fiber and cotton fiber selected in step (1) are as follows: Flax fiber, fiber length ≥ 65 mm (long flax content ≥ 80%), fiber fineness ≤ 4.6 dtex (metric count ≥ 1500 Nm), dry breaking strength ≥ 5.5 cN / dtex, moisture regain 10-12% (standard atmosphere), impurity content ≤ 1.5% (seed shells, debris, etc.); Lyocell fiber, produced by a closed-loop solvent process with residual NMMO solvent ≤ 100 ppm, fiber fineness 1.2-1.5 dtex, fiber length 38±2 mm, dry breaking strength ≥ 4.0 cN / dtex, and moisture regain 11-13% (standard atmosphere); Cotton fiber shall be selected from Grade A long-staple cotton with a hand-pulled length ≥33mm and a micronaire value between 3.7-4.2, a dry breaking strength ≥30 cN / tex, a maturity index ≥0.85, a regain of 7.5-8.5% (standard atmosphere), and a foreign matter content ≤1.2%.

[0010] The present invention is further configured such that the oiling treatment of the lyocell fiber in step (1) comprises the following contents: (101) Prepare the oil: Heat the solution containing 25-30% mineral oil, 15-20% polyether modified silicone oil, 5-8% phosphate ester, 8-12% fatty acid ester and deionized water (balance) to 50°C and stir for 20 minutes to emulsify the oil. (102) The emulsified oil was sprayed onto the surface of the lyocell fiber through an atomizing nozzle (0.3-0.5 MPa pressure), and the oiling rate was controlled at 0.6-1.2% owf (adjusted by weighing method).

[0011] The present invention is further configured such that step (2) includes the following contents: (201) Blending: Blending of pre-treated flax, lyocell and cotton fibers, and subjecting to at least two blending treatments to ensure uniform mixing of the fibers. (202) Cotton cleaning: The mixed fibers are opened by a cotton opener, wherein the cotton opener uses a sawtooth beater with a speed of ≤1000 rpm. (203) Carding: The fiber bundles after cleaning are carded using a carding machine, where the spacing between the cylinder and the cover is 0.18-0.23 mm. (204) Drawing: The raw sliver after carding is drawn and the number of drawn strands is reduced from 6-8 to 3-4. The drafting ratio is 6-8 times for the first drawing and 5-6 times for the last drawing. The roller spacing is 43-46mm in the front area and 50-55mm in the back area. (205) Spun yarn: Spun yarn is made by spinning the fiber bundle after drawing to produce roving of a certain fineness. (206) Fine spinning: Fine spinning is performed on the fibers after spun spinning to produce fine yarn with a certain strength, wherein the front roller speed is ≤170rpm and the front roller is titanium-plated to reduce the friction coefficient and thus reduce the breakage rate. (207) Winding: The bobbin yarn after fine spinning is subjected to loose winding by a winding machine to produce loose bobbin yarn.

[0012] The present invention is further configured such that step (3) includes the following contents: (301) Bleaching treatment: bleaching the cheese yarn by using ozone debleaching. (302) Dyeing treatment: inject the monosulfonic acid metal complex dye into the high-pressure overflow dyeing machine (such as the THEN Airflow AF series) and control the temperature at 40℃±0.5. Immerse the cheese yarn in the dye and gradually increase the temperature to 60℃ at 1℃ / min, then gradually increase the temperature to 98℃ at 0.8℃ / min, keep the temperature for 45-60min, and then cool it to 70℃. Take samples for color matching. (303) Color fixing treatment: The dyed cheese yarn is cleaned, pickled, fixed and washed in sequence.

[0013] The present invention is further configured such that, in step (303), Cleaning stage: add sodium hydroxide (Na2S2O4) and soda ash in a certain proportion to water, and control the water temperature at 60℃. Immerse the cheese in the solution for 20 minutes to decompose the unfixed dye. Pickling stage: add 0.5% acetic acid to water and control the water temperature at 50℃. Immerse the cleaned cheese yarn in the acid solution for 15 minutes to neutralize the residual alkalinity of the cheese yarn. Fixation stage: add 2% owf formaldehyde-free cationic fixing agent into water and control the water temperature at 60℃, immerse the cheese yarn in the solution for 30 minutes. Washing stage: Wash the cheese yarn in low-temperature cold water for 5 minutes, and then wash it in 80℃ hot water for 10 minutes to completely remove the chemical residues in the cheese yarn.

[0014] The present invention is further configured such that the water washing temperature in step (4) is 40-60° C. and the water washing time is 45-60 min.

[0015] The present invention is further configured such that step (5) includes the following contents: (501) Prepare slurry: put composite modified starch, acrylic acid slurry, and a small amount of antistatic agent, glycerin, and preservative into water and stir evenly. The content of composite modified starch accounts for 8-12% of the total slurry mass, and the content of acrylic acid slurry accounts for 4-6% of the total slurry mass. Stirring conditions: 80-85℃ constant temperature water bath, 1500rpm high speed stirring for 45min, (502) Sizing treatment: Use a sizing machine to evenly apply sizing liquid to the yarn, and then dry the yarn after sizing. (503) Cooling treatment: Use 40-50℃ circulating air to cool the yarn for at least 3 minutes to reduce the winding temperature to below 35℃.

[0016] Compared with the prior art, the present invention provides a production process for cotton and linen fiber fabrics, which has the following beneficial effects: 1. When pretreating flax fiber and cotton fiber, neutral pectinase and amylase are used respectively to reduce the use of chemicals in traditional pretreatment. While ensuring that the degumming rate and desizing rate reach the required values, the COD emission value is greatly reduced, greatly reducing pollution to the environment.

[0017] 2. Before dyeing, the cheese yarn is first bleached by ozone debleaching, replacing the traditional chemical debleaching method, which is more water-saving, effectively reduces carbon emissions and protects the ecological environment.

[0018] 3. When weaving linen fiber, lyocell fiber and cotton fiber, a combination of 2 up 1 down + 3 plain weaves is adopted. Compared with traditional plain or twill weave, the fabric is softer and more wear-resistant.

[0019] 4. When weaving linen fiber, lyocell fiber and cotton fiber, one empty weft is inserted for every 10 weft yarns to form a perforated structure and improve the breathability of the fabric. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0020] Figure 1 Schematic diagram of fabric structure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0021] It should be noted that, in the absence of conflict, the embodiments and features of the embodiments in this application can be combined with each other. The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and in combination with the embodiments.

[0022] It should be noted that, unless otherwise specified, all technical and scientific terms used in this application have the same meaning as commonly understood by ordinary technicians in the technical field to which this application belongs.

[0023] (1) Raw material pretreatment 40% flax fiber, 50% lyocell fiber and 10% cotton fiber were selected as raw materials. The flax fiber was degummed by neutral pectinase, the cotton fiber was desized by amylase, and the lyocell fiber was oiled.

[0024] When selecting linen fiber, lyocell fiber and cotton fiber, it is necessary to control the following material parameters.

[0025]

[0026] When using neutral pectinase to degumming flax fiber, the parameters are as follows: Enzyme hydrolysis formula: Pectinase (alkaline tolerant type): 8-10 U / g (based on flax fiber dry weight) Xylanase: 3-5 U / g Buffer: pH 6.8-7.2 (phosphate buffer system) Process parameters: Temperature: 50-55℃ (flax) Time: 3-4 hours (dynamic stirring, speed 30rpm) Bath ratio: 1:15 (flax fiber: solution) Post-processing: Rinse with hot water at 80℃ (to inactivate enzymes) → Mechanically beat the flax (to separate fiber bundles) → Dry at 70℃, 30% humidity.

[0027] When using amylase to desize cotton fibers, the parameters are as follows: Temperature: 55-70℃, pH: 6.0-7.5, enzyme concentration: 5-15 U / g, time: 20-60min, osmotic agent: 1-2g / L.

[0028] (2) Mixing and spinning The hemp fiber, lyocell fiber and cotton fiber treated in the above step (1) are subjected to at least two wool treatments, and then spun into blended yarn through the steps of cleaning, carding, drawing, coarse spinning, fine spinning, winding and the like.

[0029] In the cotton blowing, carding, drawing, woolen spinning and worsted spinning stages, the key parameters are as follows:

[0030] (3) Bleaching and dyeing The blended yarn spun in the above step (2) is bleached and dyed, and then subjected to a color fixing treatment.

[0031] In the actual dyeing stage, the dye is first prepared. When preparing, a monosulfonic acid metal complex dye with a concentration of 1-5% owf is selected, and ammonium sulfate is added to adjust the pH value of the dye (to a strongly acidic condition of 2.0-2.5). Auxiliary agents are then added. The following procedure is used for the dyeing of blended yarns: Stage 1: Dyeing at 40°C → Raise to 60°C at 1°C / min (to ensure uniform dye adsorption) Second stage: Raise the temperature to 98°C at 0.8°C / min → Keep warm for 45-60 minutes (critical dyeing stage) Stage 3: Cool down to 70°C → Sampling and color matching After dyeing, the floating color removal and color fixing treatment are carried out. The specific parameters are shown below.

[0032]

[0033] (4) Post-processing The blended yarn treated in step (3) is washed with cellulase to reduce the pilling phenomenon.

[0034] (5) Sizing treatment In specific applications, the parameters are shown in the following table.

[0035] Slurry preparation process:

[0036] Key points of the process: Stirring conditions: 80-85℃ constant temperature water bath, 1500rpm high speed stirring for 45min to ensure uniform slurry without precipitation Viscosity control: 55-65s (test method: funnel viscometer, 50°C) pH adjustment: 6.5-7.5 (using sodium dihydrogen phosphate / sodium hydroxide) Filtration: Filter through 80-mesh stainless steel filter 3 times to remove undissolved particles Sizing stage Equipment configuration: high-pressure grouting roller type two-immersion two-squeezing machine

[0037] Drying process Oven partition control (eight drying cylinders):

[0038] Control points: Wind speed gradient: 3.5m / s at the inlet → 2.0m / s at the outlet Cold air treatment Cooling with circulating air at 40-50℃ for 3 minutes → Winding temperature ≤35℃ (6) Weaving The blended yarn is fed into the rapier loom according to the warp and weft respectively to weave the blended fabric. The warp yarn cycle number of the fabric is 5, 2 tops, 1 bottom + 2 plain weaves, and 1 empty weft is inserted for every 10 weft yarns to ensure the wear resistance and breathability of the fabric.

[0039] Example 1:

[0040] In the sizing process, the proportions of the slurry components are 8% composite modified starch, 4% acrylic slurry, 0.3% antistatic agent, 0.5% glycerin, 0.05% preservative and 87.15% deionized water.

[0041] Example 2:

[0042] In the sizing process, the proportions of the slurry components are 12% complex modified starch, 6% acrylic slurry, 0.5% antistatic agent, 1% glycerin, 0.1% preservative and 80.4% deionized water.

[0043] Comparative Example 1: In the sizing process, the proportions of the slurry components are 6% complex modified starch, 3% acrylic slurry, 0.3% antistatic agent, 0.5% glycerin, 0.05% preservative and 90.15% deionized water.

[0044] Comparative Example 2: In the sizing process, the proportions of the slurry components are 14% composite modified starch, 7% acrylic slurry, 0.3% antistatic agent, 0.5% glycerin, 0.05% preservative and 78.15% deionized water.

[0045] The yarns were sizing treated with the sizing solutions in Example 1, Example 2, Comparative Example 1, and Comparative Example 2, respectively, while the other parameters remained the same. After sizing, the breaking strength, abrasion resistance, flexibility, and brittleness index of the four groups of yarns were tested multiple times. The test methods and test data are shown below.

[0046] Test method:

[0047] Test results:

[0048] Based on the above test data, it can be concluded that compared with Comparative Examples 1 and 2, Example 1 and Example 2 have good breaking strength, wear resistance, flexibility and lower brittleness, and the slurry film is uniform.

[0049] Example 3: In the raw material pretreatment stage, neutral pectinase is used to degummed the flax fiber, and the enzymatic hydrolysis formula is 8U / g (based on the dry weight of flax fiber) of pectinase (alkaline tolerant type), 3U / g xylanase and pH 6.8-7.2 buffer. It is stirred at a temperature of 50-55℃ for 3 hours, and then the enzyme is inactivated, the flax is mechanically beaten and dried.

[0050] Example 4: In the raw material pretreatment stage, neutral pectinase is used to degummed the flax fiber, and the enzymatic hydrolysis formula is 10U / g (based on the dry weight of flax fiber) of pectinase (alkaline tolerant type), 5U / g xylanase and pH 6.8-7.2 buffer. It is stirred at a temperature of 50-55℃ for 3 hours, and then the enzyme is inactivated, the flax is mechanically beaten and dried.

[0051] Comparative Example 3: In the raw material pretreatment stage, the flax fiber is degummed using the traditional chemical alkali boiling method.

[0052] The flax fibers after degumming in Example 3, Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 were tested respectively. The testing directions were the degumming rate of the flax fibers and the COD emissions during the degumming process. The testing methods and test results are shown below.

[0053] Degumming rate detection indicators: total residual gum rate (including pectin, xylan, lignin, etc.) and lignin residual rate (mainly affecting fiber flexibility).

[0054] Degumming rate test method:

[0055] COD emission detection: Test standard: HJ 828-2017 (dichromate method) Sampling location: degumming waste liquid (undiluted stock solution) Key equipment: COD digester, spectrophotometer Degumming rate test results:

[0056] COD emission test results:

[0057] Combined with the above results, it can be concluded that although the degumming rate of the flax fiber in Comparative Example 3 is high, the excessive dissolution of lignin causes its fiber strength to decrease by 18.7%. In addition, the COD emission value in the process of Comparative Example 3 is extremely high, which poses a serious environmental pollution problem. Considering the degumming rate and COD emission, it is appropriate to use the processes given in Examples 3 and 4 for degumming the flax fiber.

[0058] Embodiment 5: In the raw material processing stage, 15U / g amylase was used to heat to 55℃ and desize the cotton fiber for 60 minutes.

[0059] Comparative Example 4: During the raw material pretreatment phase, the cotton fibers are desized using a sodium hydroxide solution. Specifically, a 10-20 g / L sodium hydroxide solution is used as the desizing agent. After the cotton fibers are padded with the lye solution, they are then piled at 60-80°C for 6-12 hours.

[0060] The cotton fibers treated in Example 5 and Comparative Example 4 were tested respectively. The test directions included: desizing rate, fiber strength retention, whiteness retention and wastewater COD value. The test methods and test results are shown below.

[0061] Detection method:

[0062] Test results:

[0063] Combined with the above results, it can be concluded that Example 5 has better desizing rate and breaking strength retention rate than Comparative Example 4, improves the whiteness of cotton fibers, and greatly reduces COD emissions, which is of great significance to environmental protection.

[0064] Example 6: In the weaving process, the fabric has 5 warp yarn loops, forming a combination of 2 tops, 1 bottom and 2 plain weaves.

[0065] Comparative Example 5: In the weaving process, the fabric has 3 warp yarn loops, forming a 2-up 1-down twill weave.

[0066] Comparative Example 6: In the weaving process, the fabric is plain weave.

[0067] The wear resistance and softness of the fabrics woven in Example 6, Comparative Example 5 and Comparative Example 6 were tested respectively. The testing methods and test results are shown below.

[0068] Detection method: 1. Wear resistance test Standard: ASTM D4966 (Martindale method) Equipment: Martindale abrasion tester Parameters: Friction pressure is 12 kPa (simulating moderate wear), termination condition is ≥3 obvious holes appear on the fabric (record the number of frictions) Sample pretreatment: equilibrate at 20±2℃ and 65±5% humidity for 24 hours.

[0069] 2. Softness test Standard: GB / T 18318-2001 (Drape Method) Equipment: Drape tester Indicators: drape coefficient (%) and bending stiffness (cN·cm²). The smaller the drape coefficient, the softer the fabric and the better the drape. The smaller the bending stiffness value, the softer the touch.

[0070] Test results:

[0071] Combined with the above test results, it can be concluded that the combined weave in Example 6 has better wear resistance than the ordinary twill weave in Comparative Example 5, and has better drape (i.e., softer) than the ordinary plain weave in Comparative Example 6. Taking all factors into consideration, the combined weave given in Example 6 is preferably used.

[0072] In all the schemes mentioned above, although the embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it is understood by those skilled in the art that various changes, modifications, substitutions and variations can be made to these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. The production process of cotton and linen fiber fabrics is characterized by: The process includes the following steps: (1) Raw material pretreatment: Linen fiber, lyocell fiber and cotton fiber are selected. Linen fiber is degummed by neutral pectinase, cotton fiber is desized by amylase, and lyocell fiber is oiled. (2) Blending and spinning: The hemp fiber, lyocell fiber and cotton fiber treated in the above process (1) are mixed and treated, and then spun into blended yarn through cleaning, carding, drawing, coarse spinning, fine spinning and winding. (3) Bleaching and dyeing: The blended yarn spun in the above process (2) is bleached and dyed, and the color is fixed. (4) Post-treatment: Use cellulase to wash the blended yarn after treatment in step (3). (5) Sizing treatment: Use composite modified starch and acrylic acid sizing as the main sizing material, and use a sizing machine to sizing the warp, and cool the warp after sizing. (6) Weaving: The blended yarn is fed into the rapier loom according to the warp and weft respectively to weave the blended fabric.

2. The production process of cotton and linen fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weaving method in the step (6) is a combination weaving method of 2 up and 1 down + 2 plain weaves, and the number of warp yarn cycles is 5.

3. The production process of cotton and linen fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The step (2) includes the following contents: (201) Blending: Blending pretreated flax, lyocell and cotton fibers and subjecting them to at least two wool treatments. (202) Cotton cleaning: The mixed fibers are opened by a cotton opener, wherein the cotton opener uses a sawtooth beater with a speed of ≤1000 rpm. (203) Carding: The fiber bundles after cleaning are carded using a carding machine, where the spacing between the cylinder and the cover is 0.18-0.23 mm. (204) Drawing: Drawing the raw sliver after carding, and the number of combined roots is reduced from 6-8 to 3-4. (205) Spun yarn: Spun yarn is made by spinning the fiber bundle after drawing. (206) Fine spinning: The fibers after spun spinning are finely spun to make fine yarn, wherein the front roller speed is ≤170rpm and the front roller is titanium-plated. (207) Winding: The bobbin yarn after fine spinning is subjected to loose winding by a winding machine to produce loose bobbin yarn.

4. The production process of cotton and linen fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The step (3) includes the following contents: (301) Bleaching treatment: The cheese yarn is bleached by ozone de-bleaching method. (302) Dyeing treatment: inject the monosulfonic acid metal complex dye into the high-pressure overflow dyeing machine and control the temperature at 40℃±0.

5. Immerse the cheese yarn in the dye and gradually increase the temperature to 60℃ at 1℃ / min, then gradually increase the temperature to 98℃ at 0.8℃ / min, keep the temperature for 45-60min, and then cool it to 70℃. Take samples for color matching. (303) Color fixing treatment: The dyed cheese yarn is cleaned, pickled, fixed and washed in sequence.

5. The production process of cotton and linen fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The step (5) includes the following contents: (501) Prepare slurry: put composite modified starch, acrylic acid slurry, antistatic agent, glycerin and preservative into water and stir evenly, wherein the content of composite modified starch accounts for 8-12% of the total slurry mass, and the content of acrylic acid slurry accounts for 4-6% of the total slurry mass. (502) Sizing treatment: Use a sizing machine to evenly apply sizing liquid to the yarn, and then dry the yarn after sizing. (503) Cooling treatment: Use 40-50℃ circulating air to cool the yarn for 3 minutes.

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