Multi-intersection-direction micro three-dimensional warp knitting fabric
Through the design of multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabrics, the cross structure of four combs and the optimized yarn organization are used to solve the problems of heavy texture, lack of elasticity and insufficient anti-snagging of traditional warp knitted fabrics, and the softness, three-dimensionality and anti-snagging properties of the fabric are improved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202511228601.2
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-08-29
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-21
AI Technical Summary
Traditional warp knitted fabrics have problems such as heavy texture, lack of elasticity, hard mechanical straight stripe feel on the coil surface, low anti-snagging and wear resistance on the extended line surface, and monotonous horizontal stripe feel on the extended line surface.
A multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric design is adopted. The "*"-shaped structure is formed by the same-direction/reverse/reverse crossing of the four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4. Combined with different tissues and yarn types, the yarn entanglement relationship and mechanical model are optimized to form complex yarn slippage and loop variation.
The fabric is light, soft, fluffy and soft. When the extended line surface is used as the front of the garment, its anti-snagging and wear resistance are significantly improved. It has a rich three-dimensional sense and a soft and elastic texture.
Smart Images
Figure CN120818940A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The invention relates to a multi-cross-directional micro-stereoscopic warp knitted fabric, belonging to the technical field of warp knitted fabrics. Background Art
[0002] Warp knitted fabrics, such as plain and twill, offer a dense, draping texture and are widely used. The following are a few representative warp weaves, most commonly used in knitting trousers and outerwear, but also widely used in other garment types.
[0003] like Figure 1 The warp knitted fabric shown in the figure is GB1: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , fully threaded with 75D / 72 matte polyester DTY; GB2: 2-3 / 1-0 / / , fully threaded with 50D-PTT, PBT and other elastic yarns. Figure 2 The warp knitted fabric 2 shown in the figure has GB1: 1-0 / 0-1, fully threaded with 75D / 72 matte polyester DTY; GB2: 1-0 / 2-3 / / , fully threaded with 50D-PTT, PBT and other elastic yarns. Figure 3 The warp knitted fabric 3 shown in the figure has GB1: 0-1 / 2-1 / / full wear 40D / 24 semi-gloss nylon DTY; GB2: 1-0 / 1-2, full wear 40D spandex. Figure 4 The structure shown is more complex, such as twill or beaded warp knitted fabric 4, GB1: 1-0 / 1-1, 1 wear and 1 empty 70D / 24 nylon semi-gloss FDY; GB2: 1-1 / 1-0 / / , 1 wear and 1 empty 70D / 24 nylon semi-gloss FDY, GB3: 1-0 / 2-3, full wear 70D / 24 semi-gloss nylon DTY; GB4: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full wear 40D spandex.
[0004] The four mature warp knitted fabrics listed above have the following shortcomings in actual use, market feedback and consumer experience.
[0005] Disadvantage of heavy texture. The fabrics listed above or other general warp knitting structures, even if the warp knitting machine needle number is increased, will have a heavy texture under normal use conditions. The reason is that when the yarn participates in the warp knitting to form a loop, the coil of a single comb is in a tightly closed state (the coil is a complete circle with a gap of 0°); even if an open coil is used, the opening angle that increases the softness is very limited (the coil is in a semi-enclosed circle state with a gap of less than 15°), so the hardness of the coil is slightly lower than that of a closed coil; the coils described above are generally superimposed on the fabric with multiple combs, and such tight parallel strings and multi-layer strings are similar to the twisting process of yarn, which is also the reason for the excellent drape and anti-snagging properties of warp knitted fabrics; but it will bring a hard and heavy texture, affecting the consumer experience.
[0006] The reason for the lack of elasticity is the restriction of warp knitting plain structure principle or unreasonable weaving configuration; Figure 5The trouser and outer fabrics shown generally use shorter back-stitch shifting weaves, such as 1-0 / 0-1 / / , 1-0 / 1-2 / / , and 1-0 / 2-3 / / , to achieve a flat, thin, and smooth appearance. In terms of the three-dimensional structure of the loops, the amount of yarn used for the loose, free-end-oriented stretching yarn cannot be significantly greater than the amount used for the dense loops. For example, with a 1-0 / 0-1 weave at a 24 cpc longitudinal density, the ratio of loop to stretching yarn is approximately 2:0; with a 1-0 / 1-2 / / weave at a 24 cpc longitudinal density, the ratio is approximately 1.7:1.0; and with a 1-0 / 2-3 / / weave at a 24 cpc longitudinal density, the ratio is approximately 1.0:1.2. It is not difficult to find that the yarn amount used for looping of the extension lines of the above-listed structures is not high enough (or is significantly higher than the yarn amount used for looping of coils), which is the fundamental reason for the hard texture; we can use structures with longer extension lines, such as 1-0 / 3-4 / / , 1-0 / 4-5 / / , but the extension of the extension lines will face the contradiction of the elasticity of the fabric.
[0007] The loop surface has a hard mechanical straight feel. For the fabrics listed above or other general basic structures, the clothing industry generally uses the back side of the process (the loop side of the fabric, generally called the smooth side in the industry) as the front side of the clothing. The advantage is that it is dense, smooth and anti-snagging. The disadvantage is the inherent hard mechanical straight feel caused by the mechanics of the warp knitting structure, such as Figure 6 shown.
[0008] When the stretch line surface is used as the front side of the garment, the anti-snagging and wear resistance are low. For the fabrics listed above or other general warp knitted fabrics, the garment industry also has the advantage of using the technical front side (the stretch line side of the fabric, generally called the fleece side in the industry) as the front side, which has the advantages of being appropriately fluffy, three-dimensional and natural. The disadvantage is a serious decrease in anti-snagging and wear resistance (more than one stitch of GB1 stretch line will produce obvious convexity, and when elastic yarn is used in GB2 or GB3 yarn, the convexity is more serious. The convexity is the direct cause of the decrease in anti-snagging and wear resistance, and even the use of twisted yarn or silk thread will only slightly improve it). Figure 7 shown.
[0009] The stretch line surface creates a monotonous, machine-made stripe effect when used as the front face of a garment. The garment industry also uses the technical front face (the stretch line surface of the fabric, generally referred to as the fleece side) as the front face for the aforementioned or other common warp knit fabrics. This has the advantage of being appropriately fluffy and three-dimensional, but the disadvantage is that the uniform mechanical orientation of each horizontal row of stretch lines creates a single, mechanical stripe effect that lacks three-dimensionality and aesthetic appeal.
[0010] Based on the above analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of traditional warp knitted fabrics used for trousers, jackets and other types of clothing, while maintaining the advantages of existing traditional fabrics, it is necessary to improve the above representative shortcomings of existing traditional fabrics, so that the traditional warp knitted fabrics used for trousers, jackets and other types of clothing can effectively improve the performance and characterization performance, the fabric has no vertical or horizontal stripes, the texture is soft and elastic, the three-dimensional sense is strong, and the anti-snagging and anti-pilling meet the standards. Summary of the Invention
[0011] The needle corresponds to the shortcomings of traditional warp knitted fabrics of trousers, coats and other types of clothing. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric.
[0012] In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the purpose of the present invention is achieved as follows:
[0013] The multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric involved in the present invention is woven by four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4;
[0014] The yarns of the four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are intertwined in the warp knitted fabric in the order of same direction / reverse direction / reverse direction, and cross to form a "*"-shaped structure;
[0015] The two combing bars GB2 and GB3 adopt weft insertion structure.
[0016] On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferred scheme of the above scheme: the tissue used in GB1 is 0-1 / 2-1 / / or 0-1 / 3-2 / / , or a symmetrical reverse tissue of the above tissues, or a closed tissue of the above tissues.
[0017] On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferred scheme of the above scheme: the structure used in GB2 is a weft-insertion structure with 3-3 / 0-0 / / , 0-0 / 2-2 / / , 0-0 / 4-4 / / or a larger number of needle back shifts, or a reverse structure of the above structures.
[0018] On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferred scheme of the above scheme: the structure used in GB3 is 0-0 / 3-3 / / 0-0 / 1-1 / / , 0-0 / 2-2 / / , 0-0 / 4-4 / / , 0-0 / 5-5 / / or a weft-insertion structure with a larger number of needles, or the reverse structure of the above structures.
[0019] On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferred scheme of the above scheme: the tissue used in GB4 is a loop tissue with 3-2 / 0-1 / / , 4-3 / 0-1 / / , 5-4 / 0-1 / / or a larger number of needle back shifts, or a symmetrical reverse tissue of the above tissues, or a closed tissue of the above tissues.
[0020] On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferred scheme of the above scheme: the yarns used by the four combs GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are: nylon filament, polyester filament or regenerated cellulose filament, including FDY, DTY or HOY of the above filaments, and the cross-sectional shapes include bicomponent sheath-core cross-section, bicomponent parallel cross-section or special-shaped cross-section; the special-shaped cross-section includes hollow cross-section, cross-shaped cross-section, Y-shaped cross-section and H-shaped cross-section.
[0021] On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferred scheme of the above scheme: the yarns used by the four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are: elastic filaments, and the elastic filaments are T400, PBT, T8, spandex filaments or spandex-covered filaments.
[0022] On the basis of the above solution and as a preferred solution of the above solution: the yarns used by the four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are: short fiber pure yarn, short fiber blended yarn or ply yarn.
[0023] The beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: the multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric provided by the present invention is lighter, softer, fluffier, and more naturally elastic than traditional warp knitted fabrics due to its greater curvature. Furthermore, the extended yarn surface exhibits significantly improved snag resistance when used as the front of a garment. The "*"-shaped structure formed by the interlacing of yarns provides a richer and more three-dimensional texture than traditional warp knitted fabrics. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0024] Figure 1 It is the organization diagram of warp knitted fabric one;
[0025] Figure 2 It is the organization diagram of warp knitted fabric 2;
[0026] Figure 3 It is the organization diagram of warp knitted fabric three;
[0027] Figure 4 It is the organization diagram of warp knitted fabric four;
[0028] Figure 5 It is the weave diagram of trouser and outerwear fabrics;
[0029] Figure 6 This is a picture of the coil side / technical reverse side of the warp knitted fabric;
[0030] Figure 7 This is a picture of the extended line side / technical front of the warp knitted fabric;
[0031] Figure 8 It is the organization diagram of GB1 comb bar and GB4 comb bar involved in the present invention;
[0032] Figure 9 It is the organization diagram of GB2 comb bar and GB3 comb bar involved in the present invention;
[0033] Figure 10 This is a CAD drawing of the four comb bars involved in the present invention, wherein the unframed portion is a "*"-shaped structure;
[0034] Figure 11 It is a top view of the warp knitted fabric prepared by the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0035] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.
[0036] The present invention relates to a multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric, which is woven by four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4; the yarns of the four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are intertwined in the warp knitted fabric in the order of same direction / reverse direction / reverse direction, and cross to form an "*"-shaped structure; the two combing bars GB2 and GB3 adopt a weft insertion structure.
[0037] Furthermore, the weave used in GB1 is 0-1 / 2-1 / / or 0-1 / 3-2 / / , or a symmetrical reverse weave of the above weaves, or a closed weave of the above weaves. The weave used in GB4 is a loop weave with a needle back shift of 3-2 / 0-1 / / , 4-3 / 0-1 / / , 5-4 / 0-1 / / , or a larger needle back shift, or a symmetrical reverse weave of the above weaves, or a closed weave of the above weaves. In this embodiment, both GB1 and GB4 guide bars are selected as open weaves. Using open weaves can partially reduce the stiffness of the warp knitted fabric loops compared to closed weaves.
[0038] Furthermore, the weft weave used in GB2 is a weft weave with a needle back shift of 3-3 / 0-0 / / , 0-0 / 2-2 / / , 0-0 / 4-4 / / , or a larger needle back shift, or the reverse of the above weaves. The weft weave used in GB3 is a weft weave with a needle back shift of 0-0 / 3-3 / / , 0-0 / 1-1 / / , 0-0 / 2-2 / / , 0-0 / 4-4 / / , 0-0 / 5-5 / / , or a larger needle back shift, or the reverse of the above weaves. The two combs GB2 and GB3 use weft weaves with opposite directions. The weft weave has no rigid loop divisions, and the yarns of the entire weave are in a clamped free end state in the fabric, which increases the content of free-slip fibers within the fabric, greatly increases the overall proportion of extended lines in the fabric, reduces the proportion of looped loops, improves the softness of the fabric, and improves the overall texture and heaviness of the fabric.
[0039] The yarns of the four combs GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are intertwined in the warp knitted fabric in the order of same direction / reverse direction / reverse direction, forming a fully crossed three-dimensional "*"-shaped multi-axial and multi-dimensional structure, which produces a new fluffiness and thick and glutinous feeling. In addition, the "*"-shaped multi-axial and multi-dimensional structure can fully support the extension line surface as the front of the garment, improving the richness of the representation, such as Figure 10 shown.
[0040] By precisely controlling the yarn tension of the four combs, the coil mechanical model during the loop forming process is effectively controlled. Combined with the four combs: same direction / reverse / reverse three-dimensional structure, complex yarn slippage and coil mechanical variation are generated, resulting in slightly arched and fully entangled ends of the extended line under the interaction of GB1 / GB2 / GB3, resulting in a double entanglement phenomenon outside of loop weaving and three-dimensionality, which increases the three-dimensional thickness of the fabric and improves the fluffiness and elasticity.
[0041] The interplay of GB1 / GB2 / GB3 creates a slightly arched and fully intertwined extension line. The GB1 extension line (1-0 / 1-2 / weave, physical length approximately 0.93mm), originally visible on the surface, is then delicately folded into four separate segments, off-axis and off-plane, by the reverse weft insertion of the two combs GB2 / GB3. This significantly reduces the chance of snagging when used as the front of a garment, improving snag resistance. Furthermore, the fact that the four folded segments are not on the same plane significantly reduces the coefficient of friction, enhancing the fabric's smoothness and wear resistance.
[0042] Example
[0043] The present embodiment involves a multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric, with a GB1 structure of 0-1 / 2-1 / / , a GB2 structure of 3-3 / 0-0 / / , a GB3 structure of 0-0 / 3-3 / / , and a GB4 structure of 3-2 / 0-1 / / .
[0044] Furthermore, the yarns used by the four combs GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 can be: nylon filament, polyester filament or regenerated cellulose filament, including FDY, DTY or HOY of the above filaments, and the cross-sectional shapes include two-component sheath-core cross-section, two-component parallel cross-section or special-shaped cross-section; the special-shaped cross-section includes a hollow cross-section, a cross-shaped cross-section, a Y-shaped cross-section and an H-shaped cross-section.
[0045] Furthermore, the yarns used in the four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 can also be elastic filaments, which are T400, PBT, T8, spandex filaments or spandex-covered yarns. The composition can be polyester or nylon or other components, and the form includes FDY and DTY of the above elastic materials.
[0046] Furthermore, the yarns used by the four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 can also be: short fiber pure spun yarn, short fiber blended yarn or ply yarn, specifically short fiber pure spun yarn or blended yarn of polyester, nylon, acrylic, cotton, wool, mulberry silk, regenerated cellulose and the like.
[0047] Furthermore, the specifications of the nylon filament, polyester filament, regenerated cellulose filament and elastic material filament are 15D / 6f-300D / 576f
[0048] The specifications of the pure spun yarn or blended yarn of short fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, cotton, wool, mulberry silk, and regenerated cellulose are 16Ne / 1-70Ne / 1 for single yarn and 21Ne / 2-160Ne / 2 for ply yarn.
[0049] In this embodiment, GB1 raw material: 50D / 72f polyester cross-wicking semi-gloss DTY, the cross increases moisture conduction, and the high f increases tactile comfort; GB2 raw material: 50D / 36f polyester high-elastic semi-gloss DTY, which increases the elasticity of the fabric, and at the same time, the weft-inserted structure improves the formation of shrinkage hidden strips and shrinkage segments of the elastic material; GB3 raw material: 50D / 36f polyester high-elastic semi-gloss DTY, which increases the elasticity of the fabric, and at the same time, the weft-inserted structure improves the formation of shrinkage hidden strips and shrinkage segments of the elastic material; GB4 raw material: 40D / 24f polyester hollow FDY, which increases the lightweight and breathable fabric, and the surface area of the hollow material increases moisture evaporation.
[0050] The warp knitting machine used to prepare the multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric involved in this example is a German Karl Mayer HKS4 four-bar tricot machine with a needle gauge of 28 needles per inch. However, the equipment used is not limited to tricot machines; it can also be a single-bar Raschel warp knitting machine with four or more guide bars. Furthermore, the needle gauge used is not limited to E28, and the machine gauge ranges from 16 to 42 needles per inch.
[0051] The multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric design has a fabric specification of 250 grams per square meter and a width of 150 centimeters. The fabric specifications of the invention design are not limited to the above, and the specifications can be 20 grams per square meter or more, and the width can be 110 centimeters or more. The fabric density is 16.5 stitches per centimeter in the transverse direction and 30 stitches per centimeter in the longitudinal direction. The fabric specifications of the invention design are not limited to the above, and the transverse density can be 1 stitch per centimeter or more, and the longitudinal density can be 1 stitch per centimeter or more.
[0052] The specific design process table of the multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric involved in this embodiment is as follows:
[0053]
[0054]
[0055] Before weaving, warping is required. Warping is done according to the common method in the industry. The warping machine adopts the domestic segmented copy warping machine. Warping ensures that the yarn tension is uniform and the disc surface is flat.
[0056] The warping process is as follows:
[0057]
[0058] When the warp knitting machine is on, carefully check the process, check whether the data on the machine is consistent with the process sheet, and ensure that the cloth is hung correctly; carefully check whether it is consistent with the process sheet, and carefully check each element of the cloth surface: whether there are defects such as vertical stripes, horizontal stripes, and missed stitches; carefully measure the weaving tension of each yarn to ensure that the cloth surface is flat and reduce yarn breakage.
[0059] yarn Tension range 50D / 72f polyester cross-bleed semi-gloss DTY 6-10CN / TEX 50D / 36f polyester high elastic semi-gloss DTY 6-10CN / TEX 40D / 24f polyester hollow semi-gloss FDY 5-8CN / TEX
[0060] The warp knitted fabrics are then dyed and finished. This includes three-tank degreasing squeegee, tentering pre-setting, overflow dyeing, drying and final shaping.
[0061] The yarn is spun in three degreasing tanks, one with 80°C water, 1.5g / l degreasing agent, and 3g / l caustic soda. The second and third tanks are kept in the same tank, and the water temperature for all three tanks is 80°C. The rollers are used for water control at 30kg. A seven-section stenter is used for pre-setting at 185°C and 15 y / min. Overflow dyeing is performed in a J-type dye vat, following standard high-fastness polyester dyeing procedures. Drying is performed in a rotary screen dryer at 130°C and 6 y / min. The finished product is stentered in a seven-section stenter at 150°C and 15 y / min.
[0062] The dyed fabrics were tested for snag resistance, pilling resistance, and softness. Because there's no universally recognized standard for softness in the textile industry, we used the following common experiment as a comparative reference: select warp-knitted fabrics with similar weights and applications; ensure consistent orientation; cut a 20cm long x 10cm wide piece together with the example fabric; fold the two fabrics lengthwise to form a flattened comma shape; after standing for 24 hours, measure the diameter of the two fabrics at the bend; the fabric with the smaller diameter is considered softer. Testing showed that the fabric prepared by the present invention is more flexible, and its snag resistance and pilling resistance meet national standards. The comparison fabric used was warp-knitted fabric 1.
[0063] The above describes in detail the preferred embodiments of the present invention. It should be understood that those skilled in the art can make numerous modifications and variations based on the concepts of the present invention without inventive effort. Therefore, any technical solutions that can be derived by those skilled in the art through logical analysis, reasoning, or limited experimentation based on the concepts of the present invention and the prior art should be within the scope of protection defined by the claims.
Claims
1. A multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric, characterized in that: It is woven by four comb bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4; The yarns of the four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are intertwined in the warp knitted fabric in the order of same direction / reverse direction / reverse direction, and cross to form a "*"-shaped structure; The two combing bars GB2 and GB3 adopt weft insertion structure.
2. The multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The tissue used in the GB1 is 0-1 / 2-1 / / or 0-1 / 3-2 / / , or a symmetrical reverse tissue of the above tissues, or a closed tissue of the above tissues.
3. The multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weft structure used in GB2 is 3-3 / 0-0 / / , 0-0 / 2-2 / / , 0-0 / 4-4 / / or a weft insertion structure with a larger needle back shift number, or a reverse structure of the above structures.
4. The multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weft stitch used in GB3 is 0-0 / 3-3 / / 0-0 / 1-1 / / , 0-0 / 2-2 / / , 0-0 / 4-4 / / , 0-0 / 5-5 / / or a weft insertion weft stitch with a larger number of needles, or a reverse weft stitch of the above weft stitches.
5. The multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The tissue used in GB4 is a loop tissue with 3-2 / 0-1 / / , 4-3 / 0-1 / / , 5-4 / 0-1 / / or a larger number of needle back shifts, or a symmetrical reverse tissue of the above tissues, or a closed tissue of the above tissues.
6. The multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The yarns used by the four combs GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are: nylon filament, polyester filament or regenerated cellulose filament, including FDY, DTY or HOY of the above filaments, and the cross-sectional shapes include bicomponent sheath-core cross-section, bicomponent parallel cross-section or special-shaped cross-section; the special-shaped cross-section includes hollow cross-section, cross-shaped cross-section, Y-shaped cross-section and H-shaped cross-section.
7. The multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The yarns used by the four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are elastic filaments, which are T400, PBT, T8, spandex filaments or spandex-covered filaments.
8. The multi-directional micro-three-dimensional warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The yarns used by the four combing bars GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are: short-fiber pure yarn, short-fiber blended yarn or ply yarn.