Anhydrous cosmetic compositions comprising oil and sheet minerals and methods of use

Abstract

Methods and compositions for making up the lips. The method comprises applying an anhydrous composition to the lip. The composition comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil; at least one volatile oil; at least one film former; at least one colorant; at least one flake mineral; and a matting agent. The at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in a non-volatile silicone oil to volatile oil weight ratio of from about 4: 1 to about 10: 1.

Description

[0001] Cross-references to related applications This application claims the benefit of U.S. nonprovisional application No. 18 / 114,639, filed February 27, 2023, and French patent application No. 2303801, filed April 17, 2023, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Technical Field

[0002] This invention relates to a cosmetic composition and a method for applying makeup and / or improving the appearance of a keratin matrix (e.g., lips), particularly an anhydrous composition comprising non-volatile silicone oil, volatile oil, film-forming agent, colorant, and platy minerals. Background Technology

[0003] Cosmetic compositions used for makeup or to improve the appearance of a user's skin typically need to impart various properties, such as long-lasting wear, anti-transfer, matte finish, and comfort. The inventors of this invention have recognized that compositions combining one or more of the aforementioned properties to provide certain sensory effects are desirable. In particular, the inventors of this invention have recognized that it is desirable to provide improved tactile properties, such as comfort and / or reduced stickiness, while still possessing optical properties (e.g., matte finish and optical blurring). Ideally, these properties should also be achieved while maintaining long-lasting wear / anti-transfer. However, formulating cosmetics that simultaneously achieve these properties can present some challenges. Typically, one or more of the properties illustrated above cannot be easily maintained at a sufficiently desirable level.

[0004] The inventors of this invention have now surprisingly discovered that using specific oils and minerals in a specific arrangement provides a solution to the aforementioned drawbacks. Summary of the Invention

[0005] According to one embodiment of the invention, an anhydrous composition is provided that is long-lasting and transfer-resistant, while providing excellent comfort, a non-sticky feel, and unique sensory properties.

[0006] According to some aspects, a method of applying cosmetic lip products includes applying an anhydrous composition to the lips. The composition comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil; at least one volatile oil; at least one film-forming agent; at least one colorant; at least one flaky mineral; and a matting agent. The at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in a weight ratio of about 4:1 to about 10:1.

[0007] According to some aspects, the anhydrous lip cosmetic composition is a liquid lip composition and comprises about 40% to about 80% by weight of an oil system comprising at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil. It also comprises at least one silicone film-forming agent; at least one silicone elastomer; about 6.5% to about 10% of one or more mica; and silica aerogel. The at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in a weight ratio of about 4:1 to about 10:1.

[0008] According to certain embodiments, the above-described methods and / or compositions are further characterized by one or more of the following properties, alone or in combination: at least one platy mineral is present in a weight ratio of platy mineral to oil system of about 1:10 to about 1:5; at least one volatile oil is present in the composition at a concentration of about 4% by weight to about 10% by weight (e.g., 8% by weight); the volatile oil is selected from one or more C8 to C94... 16 The composition contains alkanes; a matting agent comprising silica aerogel, wherein the silica aerogel is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.6% by weight to about 2% by weight; a colorant present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.6% by weight to about 3.5% by weight; the composition having less than about 4% wax; at least one non-volatile silicone oil having a weighted average viscosity of about 50 cps to about 100 cps; and / or the film-forming agent comprising a siloxysilicate resin. Detailed Implementation

[0009] As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more, and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0010] Except in operational examples or where otherwise indicated, all figures indicating the amount of an ingredient (e.g., concentration, ratio, etc.) and / or reaction conditions should be understood to be modified by the term “about” in some embodiments, which means within 10% to 15% of the indicated figure (e.g., “about 10%” means 8.5% to 11.5%, such as 9% to 11%, and “about 2%” means 1.7% to 2.3%, such as 1.8% to 2.2%).

[0011] Similarly, for ratios, the modifier “about” means within 10% or 15% of the number. For example, about 4:1 means 3.4:1 to 4.6:1, preferably 3.6:1 to 4.4:1. As will be readily understood by those skilled in the art, when the ratio of the first component is less than that of the second component, the ratio can be expressed as “inversely”. For example, if the second component B is present in an amount or concentration 2.5 times greater than that of component A, this can be determined as an A:B ratio of 1:2.5. “About 1:10” means 1:8.5 to 1:11.5, preferably 1:9 to 1:11. Unless otherwise stated, all concentrations shown as percentages are concentrations by weight, and also, unless otherwise stated, relative to the entire composition as a whole.

[0012] As used herein, “film-former,” “film forming agent,” “film-forming polymer,” or “film-forming resin” refers to a polymer or resin that leaves a film on a substrate to which it is applied, for example, after the solvent accompanying the film-former has evaporated, been absorbed into the substrate, and / or dispersed on the substrate. “Silicone film-former” is a film-former comprising at least one silicone (e.g., a silicone atom directly bonded to an oxygen atom and, moreover, a carbon atom in an organic portion).

[0013] As used herein, “transfer resistance” refers to the quality of a composition that is not easily removed upon contact with another material (e.g., glass, clothing, or skin) (e.g., when eating or drinking). Transfer resistance can be assessed by any method known in the art for evaluating this. For example, the transfer resistance of a composition can be assessed by a “kiss” test. A “kiss” test may involve applying the composition to a keratin material, such as hair, skin, or lips, and then rubbing the material (e.g., a sheet of paper) against the hair, skin, or lips after a certain amount of time has elapsed since application (e.g., 2 minutes after application). Similarly, the transfer resistance of a composition can be assessed by the amount of product transferred from the wearer to any other substrate (e.g., when wearing clothing after a certain amount of time has elapsed since application to hair, skin, or lips). The amount of composition transferred to the substrate (e.g., collar or paper) can then be assessed and compared. For example, if most of the product remains on the wearer's hair, skin, or lips, the composition may be transfer-resistant. Furthermore, the amount transferred can be compared with the amount transferred from other compositions (e.g., commercially available compositions). In a preferred embodiment of the invention, little or no composition is transferred from the hair, skin, or lips to the substrate.

[0014] As used herein, a “long-lasting” composition means a composition whose color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as observed by the naked eye, after an extended period of time. Long-lasting properties can be assessed by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long-lasting properties can be assessed by a test involving applying the composition to a person’s hair, skin, or lips and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of the composition can be evaluated immediately after application to hair, skin, or lips, and then these properties can be reassessed and compared after a certain amount of time. Furthermore, these properties can be evaluated relative to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. For lip compositions, “long-lasting” generally means that the composition remains on the lips for at least about 4 hours and up to about 24 hours, and retains rich color even after eating.

[0015] "Liquid," "liquid cosmetic," "liquid lipstick," or "liquid composition" refers to a composition having a fixed volume, flowing to cover the bottom and take the shape of its filled container portion, and being slightly compressible (as disclosed in General Chemistry, 4th Edition, 2005, page 434). This excludes conventional stick-based lipsticks that are formed by molding and do not flow like liquids.

[0016] As used in this article, "viscosity" refers to the adhesive force between two substances. For example, the greater the viscosity between two substances, the greater the adhesive force between them. To quantify "viscosity," it is useful to determine the "work of adhesion" as defined by IUPAC in relation to the two substances. Generally, the work of adhesion measures the amount of work required to separate two substances. Therefore, the greater the work of adhesion associated with two substances, the greater the adhesive force between them, implying greater viscosity between them.

[0017] The adhesive work and thus the viscosity can be quantified using acceptable techniques and methods commonly used to measure adhesive force and the one described above.

[0018] As used herein, “substituted” means containing at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and functional groups, such as amino, ether, alkoxy, acyloxyalkyl, alkylene oxide, polyalkylene oxide, carboxylic acid, amino, amide, halogen-containing groups, ester, thiol groups, sulfonate, thiosulfate, siloxane, and polysiloxane groups. One or more substituents may be further substituted.

[0019] As used herein, "substantially free of" means that although it is preferred that the specific component is absent in the composition, it may be present in small amounts in the composition of the invention, provided that these amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the conditioning composition of the invention. In some embodiments, "substantially free of" means less than about 2% of the identified component based on the composition as a whole (or the specific component, if indicated), for example less than about 1%, for example less than about 0.5%. The term "anhydrous" means substantially free of water.

[0020] Numerical ranges include endpoints and mean that all combinations and sub-combinations are included. For example, about 5%, 10% or 15% to about 20%, 50% or 60% can refer to about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 50%, about 5% to about 60%, about 10% to about 20%, about 10% to about 50%, about 10% to about 60%, about 15% to about 20%, about 15% to about 50%, or about 15% to about 60%. As used herein, a range of ratios means the combination of each specific ratio included and the sub-ranges between a given range.

[0021] The compositions and methods of the present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention as described herein, and any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations as described herein or useful in other respects.

[0022] Film-forming agent The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one film-forming agent, and the total amount of the at least one film-forming agent may be present in the composition at a concentration of about 1% to about 25% by weight (e.g., 1%, 2%, 4% or 5% to about 10%, 15%, 20% or 25%).

[0023] Examples of film-forming agents include silicone resins, such as those described in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,505,937, 5,911,974, 5,965,112, 5,985,298, 6,074,654, 6,780,422, and 6,908,621, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference.

[0024] According to some embodiments, the composition comprises a silicone resin selected from silyloxysilicate resins, silsequioxane resins, and combinations thereof. According to some embodiments, the silicone film-forming agent is a silyloxysilicate resin. A non-limiting example of a silyloxysilicate according to the invention is trimethylsilyloxysilicate, which can be represented by the following formula: [(CH3)3SiO]x(SiO4 / 2)y Where x and y can range, for example, from 50 to 80. Such siloxysilicates are commercially available from General Electric, Dow Corning, Wacker, Milliken, Siltech, Grant Industries, Momentive, and Shin-Etsu Silicones under the trade name Resin MQ®.

[0025] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition may contain a silsesquioxane resin, including a film-forming resin comprising at least one polypropyl silsesquioxane.

[0026] Silsesquioxane resins are specific forms of silicone resins. The naming of silicone resins in the art is known as the "MDTQ" designation, which describes silicone resins based on the various monomeric siloxane units that constitute the polymer. Each letter of "MDTQ" represents a different type of unit. When the film-forming resin is primarily composed of trifunctional units (or T units), it is generally referred to as a silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US 2006 / 0292096, which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0027] Examples of silsesquioxane resins that can be used in this invention are alkyl silsesquioxane resins, which are silsesquioxane homopolymers and / or copolymers having an average siloxane unit of the general formula R1nSiO(4-n) / 2, wherein each R1 is a propyl group, wherein more than 80 mol% of R1 represents a C3-C10 alkyl group, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, and more than 60 mol% of the copolymer contains R1SiO3 / 2 units. When each R1 is a propyl group, these polymers are referred to as polypropyl silsesquioxane resins or “t-propyl” silsesquioxane resins. These resins and methods for preparing them are described, for example, in US 8,586,013, 2012 / 0301415, 2007 / 0093619 and 2006 / 0292096, all of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0028] Non-limiting examples of polypropylene silsesquioxane resins suitable for use in this invention are commercially available Dow Corning 670 Fluid or Dow Corning 680 Fluid. These Dow Corning resins have the general formula RnSiO(4-n) / 2, wherein R is independently selected from hydrogen atoms and monovalent hydrocarbon groups comprising 3 carbon atoms, wherein more than 80 mol% of R is a propyl group, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, more than 60 mol% of the copolymer contains RSiO3 / 2 units, and has a hydroxyl or alkoxy content of 0.2 wt% to 10 wt%, for example 1 wt% to 4 wt%, preferably 5 wt% to 10 wt%, and more preferably 6 wt% to 8 wt%. Preferably, the polypropylene silsesquioxane resin has a molecular weight of about 5,000 to about 30,000, and a Tg of about -5°C to about 5°C.

[0029] Another embodiment of the present invention illustrates a composition comprising at least one silyloxysilicate resin, at least one sesquioxane resin and / or a mixture thereof.

[0030] Polyorganosiloxane copolymers Other silicone film-forming agents suitable for the compositions of the present invention include polymers containing polyorganosiloxanes. Polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers useful herein are polymers (homopolymers or copolymers) having at least one moiety comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units (in the chain of the moiety or in graft form), and at least two groups capable of forming hydrogen bond interactions. Non-limiting examples of polymers containing polyorganosiloxanes are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 8,945,525, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference.

[0031] Other polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include those described in documents US5,874,069, US5,919,441, US6,051,216 and US5,981,680, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.

[0032] The preferred polymer containing a polyorganosiloxane used in this invention contains at least one portion selected from formula (III): and formula (IV) in: (a) R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4They may be the same or different, and can be selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, siloxane chains and phenyl; (b) X is a straight-chain or branched alkylene group having 1-30 carbon atoms; (c) Y is selected from straight-chain or branched alkylene groups having 1-40 carbon atoms; (d) m is a number from 1 to 700; (e) n is a number from 1 to 500.

[0033] The particularly preferred polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers useful in this article are commercially available from Dow Corning under the trade names DC8178® and DC 8179®, known by the INCI name Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer.

[0034] At least one polymer containing a polyorganosiloxane is typically present in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention in an amount of about 1% to about 25%, for example 1%, 2%, 4% or 7% to about 10%, 20% or 25%, all by weight based on the composition as a whole.

[0035] silicone elastomer In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a silicone elastomer, and particularly a non-emulsified silicone elastomer. The non-emulsified silicone elastomer may be in the form of a gel or powder.

[0036] The composition is thickened with "organopolysiloxane elastomer," "silicone elastomer," or "silicone crosspolymer," increasing its cushiony (sponge-like) effect and improving the application of the final product. Furthermore, it provides a very soft feel and matte finish after application, which is particularly beneficial for skin products.

[0037] The term "non-emulsified" defines an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain any hydrophilic chains, and in particular polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglycerol units. Therefore, according to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain polyoxyalkylene units and polyglycerol units.

[0038] Non-emulsified elastomers are described in U.S. Patent No. 8,637,057, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference.

[0039] Silicone elastomers, which are particularly useful in this invention, are not typically considered “silicone film-forming agents” because they tend to form soft particles that do not themselves form a film.

[0040] One class of non-emulsified silicone elastomers particularly useful in this invention includes vinyl-modified silicone elastomers, such as vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymers, such as those with the INCI name DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, which are commercially available from Dow as DOWSIL EL-9240 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND or DIMETHICONE / VINYLDIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, for example, from Dow as DOWSIL 3903 LIQUID SATINBLEND or from Shin-Etsu as USG-107A.

[0041] In one embodiment, organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are delivered in the form of a gel, said gel being formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are typically non-spherical particles.

[0042] A non-limiting example of a silicone elastomer useful in this invention is one having a diameter of about 150 to about 700 mm. 2 / s, approximately 200 to approximately 650mm 2 / s and approximately 300 to approximately 600 mm 2 A polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer gel with a viscosity value of / s (a blend of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers in a solvent is available).

[0043] What is particularly useful for the present invention are blends of high molecular weight silicone elastomers in volatile solvents (e.g., silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof), as previously disclosed.

[0044] Specific, but non-limiting, examples of silicone elastomer gels suitable for use in this invention are represented by DC EL-8040 ID (INCI name: isododecane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer), DC EL-9140 DM (INCI name: polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer), and DOWSIL EL-9240 silicone elastomer blend (INCI name: polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer), supplied by Dow Corning.

[0045] Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomers and their synthesis are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Patent Nos. 8,637,057 and US / 20150174048, all of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0046] The total amount of at least one silicone elastomer is generally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount of about 1% to about 25%, for example 1%, 2% or 4% to about 5%, 10%, 15%, 20% or 25%, all weights based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

[0047] platy minerals The inventors have found that the use of platy minerals is particularly useful in this invention. By "platy mineral," it refers to a type of mineral whose grains produce thin, leaf-like layers (i.e., cleavage planes) of crystal form or facets, forming "layered" grains with a high aspect ratio. A "platy mineral" is characterized by an aspect ratio of at least about 5, 10, or 20 to about 100 or 200 and (average grain size / thickness). As is known to those skilled in the art, the aspect ratio can be determined using, for example, shadowing, SEM, scanning white light interference microscopy, etc.

[0048] The platy minerals useful in this invention may have an average particle size of about 1 or 3 micrometers (μm) to about 100 μm or 150 μm, and may have 95% of the particles in the range of about 0.5 μm or 1 μm to about 50 μm, 75 μm or 100 μm. The platy minerals may have a thickness of about 0.1 μm to 10 μm. The average particle size may be determined using, for example, screening, jet sieving, laser diffraction, optical or electron microscopy. “Equivalent sphere” analysis may be used, and the results may be reported using, for example, the average (in some embodiments) or the mode (in other embodiments).

[0049] The flaky minerals useful in this invention may, in some embodiments, have an oil absorption capacity of at least 70 ml / 100 g as measured at the wet point and a volume average diameter of at least 15 micrometers.

[0050] Examples of suitable platy minerals include coated or uncoated variants of layered silicates such as natural mica and synthetic mica (synthetic fluorophlogopite). Platy variants of certain other minerals may also be suitable, including certain other layered silicate clays such as bentonite clay and kaolinite clay, as well as platy variants of certain materials that do not belong to the layered silicate classification, such as platy alumina, platy silica, and certain glass flakes.

[0051] Natural and synthetic mica, especially natural mica, are of particular interest to this invention. Therefore, in some embodiments, the flaky mineral comprises or is composed entirely of natural or synthetic mica.

[0052] Mica is a layered silicate, and particularly a highly flaky aluminum and potassium foliate silicate, and can be, for example, muscovite or phlogopite variants. A suitable mica is uncoated mica, which is available from BASF as MEARLMICA DD, with a bulk density of about 12 g / 100 cc and 95% particle size between 2 and 48 micrometers.

[0053] The coating can be formed on the platy mineral and may include those typically used to provide optical effects (e.g., in effect pigments) or to provide tactile and / or stability benefits. Suitable coatings may include metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, bismuth oxide, silicon oxide, organic colorants (e.g., dyes), and combinations thereof. These can be formed using any number of known techniques (e.g., via metal hydroxide precipitation and calcination; chemical vapor deposition, etc.). Other suitable coatings include various silicones, hydrocarbons, glutamates, lauroyl lysine, etc. According to some embodiments, the platy mineral is uncoated.

[0054] According to certain noteworthy embodiments, at least one platy mineral is selected from natural mica, synthetic mica, and combinations thereof, and the platy mineral is present in the composition at a concentration of about 6.5 wt%, 7 wt%, or 7.5 wt% to about 9 wt% or 10 wt%, for example, particularly about 6.5 wt% to about 10 wt%.

[0055] Oil system The compositions of the present invention typically comprise an oil system containing at least one non-volatile silicone and at least one volatile oil, or consisting of at least one non-volatile silicone and at least one volatile oil, or substantially consisting of at least one non-volatile silicone and at least one volatile oil. The oil system serves as a carrier for the composition to facilitate its spreadability on keratin surfaces (e.g., lips). The oil system further dissolves and / or disperses various other components in the composition.

[0056] The oil system may be present in amounts of about 40%, 50%, 60%, 65% or 70% to about 70%, 80%, 85% or 90%, all by weight based on the composition as a whole.

[0057] According to certain embodiments, "oil" refers to a compound having a melting point of less than about 30°C and being generally insoluble in water and comprising a hydrophobic portion, such as a hydrophobic portion that meets one or more of the following three criteria: (a) a carbon chain having at least six carbons, wherein none of the six carbons are carbonyl carbons or have no direct bond to its hydrophilic portion (as defined below); (b) having two or more alkylsilyloxy groups; or (c) having two or more consecutive propylene oxide groups. The hydrophobic portion may include straight-chain, cyclic, aromatic, saturated, or unsaturated groups. In some embodiments, the hydrophobic compound is not amphiphilic, and therefore, hydrophilic moieties are not included in this embodiment, such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, or nonionic groups that are polar, including sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, ammonium (including monoalkylammonium, dialkylammonium, and trialkylammonium species), pyridinium, imidazolineium, amidineium, poly(ethyleneimineon), aminoalkylsulfonate, aminoalkylcarboxylate, amphoteric acetate, and poly(ethyleneoxy)sulfonyl moieties. In some embodiments, the oil does not include a hydroxyl moieties. In some other embodiments, "oil" means excluding surfactants, such as those materials that, when present in deionized water at a concentration of 0.5% or less, are capable of reducing the surface tension of water to less than about 50 dynes / cm at 25°C.

[0058] In some embodiments, the term "volatile oil" means a non-aqueous compound that is generally insoluble in water and capable of evaporating upon contact with skin or lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for less than one hour. In some other embodiments, "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous compound having a flash point of less than about 120°C (e.g., less than about 100°C, e.g., about 40°C to about 100°C).

[0059] Examples of suitable volatile oils include volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and especially branched C8 to C9 oils. 16 Alkanes, such as C8 to C96, are alkanes. 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils, such as those sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C8 to C4, are also present. 16 Branched esters (such as isohexyl pentanoate or isodecanyl pentanoate), alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include, but are not limited to, those given in Table 1 below.

[0061] Table 1 .

[0062] The volatile solvent may also be selected from or include volatile silicone oils, which may be linear or cyclic, have a viscosity of less than or equal to 6 cSt at room temperature, and have 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0063] Examples of suitable volatile silicone oils include, but are not limited to, those listed in Table 2 below.

[0064] Table 2 .

[0065] At least one volatile oil is typically present in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention in an amount of about 0.5 wt%, 1 wt%, 2 wt%, 3 wt%, or 4 wt% to about 4 wt%, 5 wt%, 6 wt%, 8 wt%, or 10 wt% based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

[0066] Non-volatile silicone oil The oil system further includes at least one non-volatile silicone oil. The non-volatile silicone oil is characterized as a non-aqueous compound that is generally fluid at room temperature, insoluble in water, and comprises multiple Si-O bonds and multiple Si-C bonds. In some other embodiments, the non-volatile silicone oil has a flash point greater than about 120°C, for example greater than about 150°C, for example greater than about 200°C.

[0067] The volatility of an oil can be determined using the rate of evaporation as described in U.S. Patent No. 6,338,839, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0068] Non-volatile silicone oils include low-viscosity oils (having a viscosity of about 5 to about 10 centipoise) and high-viscosity oils (having a viscosity of about 100 to about 10,000 centipoise), and mixtures thereof. Unlike waxes, oils are liquids at room temperature.

[0069] According to certain embodiments of the invention, at least one silicone oil is a high-viscosity oil, which is a silicone oil. "High viscosity" means an oil having a viscosity greater than 100 cSt, particularly greater than 250 cSt, at 25°C. Most particularly, the non-volatile oil is selected from silicone oils. Such oils are described, for example, in US 2011 / 0293550 and US 2004 / 0126350, both of which are incorporated herein by reference. In some embodiments, at least one silicone oil comprises a plurality of silicone oils with different individual viscosities. The weighted average viscosity (defined as the viscosity of each individual silicone oil multiplied by the sum of its relative weight fractions in all silicone oils) can be from about 50 cps to about 100 cps.

[0070] Non-limiting examples of suitable non-volatile silicone oils include polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having linear or cyclic silicone chains that are liquid or paste at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones), such as cyclohexylsiloxane; polydimethyl-siloxanes (CTFA designation "dimethicones") containing alkyl or alkoxy groups side-attached or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms; polydiethylsiloxane; and polydimethylsiloxane fluids, such as polydimethylsiloxane fluids having a viscosity in a specific centipoise (cps) or centiliter (cSt) range when measured at 25°C.

[0071] Specific examples of high-viscosity silicone oils applicable to this invention include, but are not limited to, Xiameter® silicone fluid from Dow Corning.

[0072] According to certain embodiments, the composition is substantially free of or contains no non-volatile solvents having at least one or more phenyl groups. Such solvents are described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 8,945,525, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.

[0073] At least one non-volatile silicone oil may be present in the compositions of the invention in an amount of about 2% to about 75% by weight (e.g., about 10%, 15%, 20%, or 25% to about 40%, 50%, 60%, or 75%) based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

[0074] ratio According to certain embodiments, in order to provide surprisingly good drying time and tactile comfort, at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil are present in a specific weight ratio of non-volatile silicone oil to volatile oil. The inventors have found that this ratio should preferably be from about 4:1, 4.5:1, 5:1, 5.5:1, 6:1, or 6.5:1 to about 7:1, 8:1, 9:1, or 10:1. This ratio is calculated by dividing the weight concentration of at least one non-volatile silicone oil by the weight concentration of at least one volatile oil (e.g., 10% total of one or more non-volatile silicone oils to 2% total of one or more volatile oils would be a 5:1 ratio).

[0075] Furthermore, in some other embodiments, in order to provide an aesthetically pleasing combination of optical soft focus and matte finish, as well as the properties listed in the preceding paragraphs, it is desirable to have at least one platy mineral present in a specific weight ratio of the platy mineral to the total oil system (wherein the oil system again refers to the total concentration of non-volatile silicone oil, volatile oil, and other oils). The inventors have found that this ratio should preferably be from about 1:10, 1:9, or 1:8 to about 1:7, 1:6, or 1:5. This ratio is calculated, for example, by dividing the weight concentration of the oil by the weight concentration of at least one platy mineral (e.g., 10% oil to 2% platy mineral would be a 1:5 ratio).

[0076] Colorant The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also contain at least one cosmetically acceptable colorant, such as a pigment or dye. Examples of suitable colorants include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pearlescent pigments, iridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof. Pigments should be understood to mean inorganic or organic, white or colored particles. The pigments may optionally be surface-treated within the scope of the invention, but are not limited to treatments such as with silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.

[0077] Representative examples of inorganic pigments useful in this invention include those selected from: rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, coded by color index CI 77,891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, coded by index CI 77,499, 77,492 and 77,491; manganese violet (CI 77,742); ultramarine blue (CI 77,007); chromium oxide (CI 77,288); chromium hydrate (CI 77,289); and iron blue (CI 77,510) and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Representative examples of organic pigments and lakes useful in this invention include, but are not limited to, D&C Red No. 19 (CI 45,170), D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15,585), D&C Red No. 21 (CI 45,380), D&C Orange No. 4 (CI 15,510), D&C Orange No. 5 (CI 45,370), D&C Red No. 27 (CI 45,410), D&C Red No. 13 (CI 15,630), D&C Red No. 7 (CI 15,850), D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15,850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19,140), D&C Red No. 36 (CI 12,085), D&C Orange No. 10 (CI 45,425), and D&C Yellow No. 6 (CI 19,140). D&C Red No. 30 (CI73,360), D&C Red No. 3 (CI 45,430), and dyes or lakes based on carmine (CI 75,570) and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Representative examples of pearlescent pigments useful in this invention include those selected from: white pearlescent pigments (e.g., mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, or titanium oxychloride), colored pearlescent pigments (e.g., titanium mica with iron oxide, titanium mica with iron blue, chromium oxide, etc.), titanium mica with organic pigments of the types mentioned above, and those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.

[0080] At least one colorant may be present in the compositions of the invention in an amount of about 0.5%, 0.6%, or 1% to about 2%, 3.5%, 5%, or 10% based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

[0081] wax The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may optionally contain at least one wax.

[0082] For the purposes of this invention, wax is a lipophilic aliphatic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), has a reversible solid / liquid state change (i.e., the state of the material can change based on temperature), has a melting point greater than 45°C, preferably greater than 55°C, more preferably between about 65°C and about 120°C, and has an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. The melting point of wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) (e.g., the calorimeter sold by Mettler under the name DSC 30). For petroleum-derived waxes, such as microcrystalline waxes, the melting point can be measured according to ASTM dropping point method D-127.

[0083] Waxes are those commonly used in cosmetics and dermatology. Waxes can be of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax or sugarcane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, montan wax, ceresin wax, and hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0084] Waxes can also be of synthetic origin, such as polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained through Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and esters of fatty acids and glycerides that are solid at 40°C.

[0085] Specific waxes include polyethylene waxes, such as those sold under the name Performalene 500-L Polyethylene (NewPhase Technology), and polymethylene waxes, such as those sold under the name Cirebelle 303 (Sasol).

[0086] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may contain at least one polypropyl silsesquioxane wax substituted with an alkyl unit having at least 30 carbon atoms.

[0087] Polypropylene silsesquioxane waxes have been commonly disclosed in patent publications WO2005 / 100444 and U.S. Patent No. 8,586,013, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.

[0088] The particularly preferred polypropyl silsesquioxane wax used in this invention is C30-45 ALKYLDIMETHYLSILYL POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE, commercially available from DOW CORNING under the trade name SW-8005 C30 ResinWax.

[0089] When present in the compositions of the present invention, at least one wax may be present in an amount from about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight, typically from about 0.03% by weight or 0.5% by weight to 1%, 2%, 3%, or 4% by weight. According to some embodiments, the composition has less than about 4% total wax. According to some other embodiments, the composition is substantially free of hydrocarbon waxes.

[0090] filler Fillers that can be used in the compositions of this invention include those that provide a loose, opaque, or particularly matte effect and are not covered by the definition of "flaky mineral" above. Examples include certain minerals with various chemical properties, such as silica powder; talc; polyamide particles; polyethylene powder; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those based on ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymers; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres; powders of natural organic materials, such as cross-linked or non-cross-linked corn starch, wheat starch, or rice starch, such as starch powder cross-linked with octenyl succinic anhydride; silicone resin microbeads; and certain clays (bentonite, lithium soapstone, soapstone, etc.); and mixtures thereof.

[0091] A particularly useful filler for use in this invention is a matting agent / filler. A particularly suitable matting agent is one with a content of at least about 100 μm. 2 Those with a specific surface area per g (e.g., as measured by BET). Suitable examples include aerogels, such as certain microcrystalline cellulose and hydrophobic silica aerogels. Silica aerogels are of particular note.

[0092] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing the liquid component of silica gel with air (through drying). They are typically synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium, followed by drying, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying allows for the avoidance of pore and material shrinkage. The sol-gel method and various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CJ. and Scherrer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. Silica aerogels are substantially disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 9,320,689, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.

[0093] Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in this invention include an aerogel sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), whose particles have an average size of about 1000 micrometers and a particle size of 600 to 800 μm. 2 Specific surface area per unit mass of / g.

[0094] Also mentioned are aerogels sold by Cabot under the indices AEROOGEL TLD 201, AEROOGEL OGD 201, AEROOGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROOGEL MT 1100, and ENOVA AEROOGEL MT 1200.

[0095] One example is an aerogel sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: silylated silica), whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 micrometers and a particle size of 600 to 800 μm. 2 Specific surface area per unit mass of / g.

[0096] (Matte) filler may be present in the compositions of the invention in an amount of about 1% to about 10% by weight (e.g., about 0.1%, 0.5%, or 1% to about 2%, 3%, 5%, or 10% by weight) based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

[0097] In particular, silica aerogel particles (if used) may be used in the compositions of the present invention in amounts of 0.1% to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 0.2% by weight, 0.3% by weight, or 0.5% by weight, or 0.6% by weight, to about 0.6% by weight, 1% by weight, 1.5% by weight, 2% by weight, or 5% by weight.

[0098] In some embodiments, if expanded perlite is included between the fillers, the concentration by weight is less than 10%, for example less than 5%, for example less than 1%. In some other embodiments, the composition is substantially free of expandable clay (clay materials capable of swelling in water). An example of expandable clay is montmorillonite clay. The crystal structure of the montmorillonite family consists of an alumina octahedral layer between two silicon-oxygen tetrahedral layers. In a notable embodiment, the expandable clay is bentonite. Bentonite is a rock formed from highly colloidal and plastic clays, primarily composed of montmorillonite, a clay mineral of the montmorillonite family, and produced through in-situ devitrification of volcanic ash. In addition to montmorillonite, bentonite may contain feldspar, cristobalite, and crystalline quartz. Bentonite has the ability to form thixotrophic gels with water and the ability to absorb large amounts of water. Variations in the interstitial water and exchangeable cations in the interlayer spaces affect the properties of bentonite and thus influence the commercial applications of different types of bentonite.

[0099] additive The compositions of the present invention may further comprise at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable additive, such as additional thickeners, plasticizers, antioxidants, essential oils, plant extracts, fragrances, preservatives, perfumes, pasty fatty substances, neutralizing agents and polymers, as well as cosmetic active agents and / or dermatological active agents, such as oils (in addition to those listed above), moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids and pharmaceuticals.

[0100] According to the present invention, the additive is incorporated in amounts of about 0.01% by weight, 0.5% by weight, or 1% by weight to about 1% by weight, 2% by weight, or 5% by weight.

[0101] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition for application to the lips is a liquid lip cosmetic composition comprising (1) about 40% to about 80% by weight of an oil system comprising at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil, or consisting of at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil; (2) at least one silicone film-forming agent; (3) at least one silicone elastomer; (4) about 6.5% to about 10% mica; and (5) silica aerogel (e.g., about 0.6% to about 1.5% silica aerogel). The at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in a weight ratio of about 4:1 to about 10:1.

[0102] The compositions of the present invention are useful as compositions for cosmetic skin, particularly for the lips. The compositions can be used, for example, as a single-layer treatment or as a base coat over a top coat.

[0103] The composition can be prepared by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as by filling a container with one or more solvents or oils and adding various ingredients and then mixing. The pigments can be pre-ground into a suspension or slurry before addition.

[0104] The invention will be better understood through the following examples. These examples are intended to be non-limiting and illustrative only, and the scope of the invention is defined by the claims. Example

[0105] The invention will be better understood from the following examples. These examples are intended to be non-limiting and illustrative only, and the scope of the invention is defined by the claims.

[0106] The following compositions were prepared according to Tables 1, 2 and 3, namely, Examples E1 and E2 of the present invention (with different colorant concentrations) and Comparative Examples C1-C11.

[0107] The composition is typically prepared by mixing pigments, isododecane silicone resin, and grinding to produce a pigment paste. The blend is treated using a Disconti Mill until the paste passes the Hegman Gauge test (ASTM D1210-05). The paste is then added to the remaining components. The mixture is heated to approximately 80°C and stirred until a homogeneous liquid composition is obtained. The composition is then cooled to room temperature and transferred to the desired container and / or applicator. "Other silicones*" in the table refers to silicone resins, silicone elastomers, silicone waxes, and polyorganosiloxane copolymers. "Other" components refer to preservatives and other additives as described above.

[0108] The composition was evaluated by having a user apply it to her lips using a standard liquid lipstick applicator. The degree of soft-focus and matte finish applied to the lips was visually evaluated, and soft-focus, matte, tactile comfort, and staying power were visually and tactilely evaluated. Drying time was assessed by a light touch test on the back of the hand. Unless otherwise stated below, samples are acceptable according to these properties.

[0109] Compositions without a volatile solvent (here, isododecane) have poor drying times (see C11), but if one attempts to add more volatile oil to bring the ratio of non-volatile silicone oil (here, polydimethylsiloxane) to volatile oil (here, isododecane) below about 4:1, the user begins to experience tactile discomfort, such as a dry or tight feeling (see C1-C10). Using a small amount of volatile oil, however, also requires increasing the proportion of other components. The inventors have found that the use of flaky minerals (mica, in the examples below) is very useful in this regard compared to other fillers and pigments. For example, the inventors have found that samples with a ratio of flaky pigment (here, mica) to oil system (here, polydimethylsiloxane plus isododecane) of about 1:10 to about 1:5 have surprisingly good performance.

[0110] In addition, since matte finish is also desirable, and flake pigments are usually insufficient to provide enough matte finish, additional matting agents are required (see below on the use of silylated silica).

[0111] Table 1 .

[0112] Table 2 .

[0113] Table 3 .

[0114] A mixture of pigment, isododecane, and MQ resin is milled to produce a pigment paste. The blend is treated using a 3 Roller Mill until the paste passes the Hegman Gauge test (ASTM D1210-05). The milled paste is then added to the remaining components. The mixture is heated to 80°C and stirred until a homogeneous liquid composition is obtained. The composition of the present invention is then cooled to room temperature and transferred to the desired container and / or applicator.

Claims

1. A method of applying cosmetic lip makeup, comprising applying an anhydrous composition to the lips, the anhydrous composition comprising: At least one non-volatile silicone oil; At least one volatile oil; At least one film-forming agent; At least one colorant; At least one platy mineral; and A matting agent; wherein the at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in a weight ratio of about 4:1 to about 10:1 of non-volatile silicone oil to volatile oil.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil constitute an oil system, and wherein the at least one flaky mineral is present in a weight ratio of about 1:10 to about 1:5 of the flaky mineral to the oil system.

3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one platy mineral is selected from natural mica, synthetic mica, and combinations thereof, wherein the at least one platy mineral is present in the composition at a concentration of about 6.5% by weight to about 10% by weight.

4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in the composition at a total concentration of about 40% by weight to about 80% by weight.

5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one volatile oil is present in the composition at a concentration of about 4% by weight to about 10% by weight.

6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the non-volatile silicone oil to the volatile oil in the composition is from about 4:1 to about 8:

1.

7. The method of claim 1, wherein the at least one volatile oil comprises one or more C8 to C94 oils. 16 Alkanes.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein the matting agent comprises silica aerogel, and the silica aerogel is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.6% by weight to about 2% by weight.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein the at least one colorant is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.6% by weight to about 3.5% by weight.

10. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is a liquid.

11. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises less than about 4% wax.

12. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises a silicone elastomer.

13. The method of claim 1, wherein the at least one film-forming agent comprises a silyloxysilicate resin.

14. The method of claim 1, wherein the at least one volatile oil comprises one or more C8 to C94 oils. 16 Alkanes, and the composition therein is a liquid.

15. A liquid lip cosmetic composition comprising: An oil system comprising about 40% by weight to about 80% by weight, comprising at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil; At least one silicone film-forming agent; At least one silicone elastomer; Mica comprising approximately 6.5% to approximately 10%; and Silica aerogel; wherein the at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in a weight ratio of about 4:1 to about 10:1 of non-volatile silicone oil to volatile oil.

16. The liquid lip composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one flaky mineral is present in a weight ratio of about 1:10 to about 1:5 of the flaky mineral to the oil system.

17. The liquid lip composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one volatile oil comprises one or more C8 to C94 oils. 16 Alkanes.

18. The liquid lip composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one volatile oil is present at a concentration of about 4% to about 10% by weight of the composition.

19. The liquid lip composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises less than about 4% wax.

20. The liquid lip composition of claim 1, wherein the silica aerogel is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.6% by weight to about 2% by weight.

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