Gradient weaving method of silk fabric with multi-level pore structure

Abstract

The invention relates to a processing technology of a silk fabric, in particular to a gradient weaving method of a silk fabric with a multi-level pore structure, which comprises the following steps of: selecting mulberry silk yarns and high-shrinkage polyester fiber yarns as warp and weft raw materials, and weaving on an electronic jacquard loom according to a preset pattern in a strip-type arrangement at a warping stage, warp tension is divided into a reference tension area, a transition area and a relaxation tension area, weft density is dynamically adjusted through a beating-up device, a high-weft-density area and a low-weft-density area are formed, and leno weave, double-layer weave, terry weave and satin weave are combined in different areas to form an area structure. The high-shrinkage polyester fibers are shrunk by 30%-60% through first-stage steam treatment and second-stage hot air setting, the mulberry silk is driven to form a three-dimensional pore structure, multi-level and gradient change of the pore structure is achieved, and weaving controllability and design freedom degree are improved.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to a silk fabric processing technology, more particularly, it relates to a gradient weaving method of a multi-level porous structure silk fabric. BACKGROUND

[0002] The existing silk fabric mainly adopts traditional jacquard, plain, twill and other weaving processes, and its pore structure is relatively simple, usually limited to two-dimensional macro-pore diameter in the plane, and lacks multi-level pore distribution in the three-dimensional direction. Such a single pore structure leads to limitations in the air permeability, moisture absorption, comfort and functionality of the silk fabric. For example, in sports clothing that requires rapid moisture transfer and air permeability, the moisture absorption rate and air permeability of the traditional silk fabric are insufficient; in underwear that requires good thermal insulation and moisture balance, the single pore structure cannot meet the differentiated needs of different environments or different parts of the human body for fabric performance. For example, different parts of the clothing (such as the armpit, back, chest, etc.) have different needs for air permeability and moisture absorption, and it is currently difficult to achieve differentiated pore structure in these parts through simple weaving methods, thereby failing to meet the individualized needs of human comfort. Although there are methods for adjusting the porosity by changing the fabric density, they can only achieve rough, non-continuous regional differences, and it is difficult to form a smooth gradient change and simultaneously control the pore structure at the macro and micro levels.

[0003] Therefore, how to realize the multi-level and gradient change of the pore structure of the silk fabric through a feasible and precise weaving method to improve its comprehensive performance is a challenge faced by the current silk weaving technology. SUMMARY

[0004] In view of the deficiencies of the prior art, the purpose of the present application is to provide a gradient weaving method of a multi-level porous structure silk fabric, which realizes multi-level and gradient change of the pore structure and improves the controllability and design freedom of weaving.

[0005] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the present application provides the following technical solutions:

[0006] A gradient weaving method of a multi-level porous structure silk fabric, comprising the following steps:

[0007] S1, selecting mulberry silk yarn and high-shrinkage polyester fiber yarn as warp and weft yarn raw materials, and arranging them in strip form in the warping stage according to a preset pattern at a ratio of 1 high-shrinkage polyester fiber to 3-8 mulberry silk yarns, with a strip width of 5-20 mm and an embedded area coverage of 20%-40%;

[0008] S2, weaving on an electronic jacquard loom, and executing the following operations through a control system:

[0009] S21, dividing the warp tension into a reference tension area and a relaxation tension area, the tension of the reference tension area being 40-60 cN, accounting for 50%-70% of the weaving area, the tension of the relaxation tension area being 12-30 cN, accounting for 30%-50% of the weaving area, the length of the transition area being 5-15 cm, the switching response time being 0.5-1 s, and the control accuracy being ±1-3 cN;

[0010] S22, dynamically adjusting the weft density through a beating-up device to form a high weft density area and a low weft density area, the weft density of the high weft density area being 80-110 ends / cm, the area length being 15-25 cm, the weft density of the low weft density area being 25-45 ends / cm, the area length being 10-20 cm, the alternating period being 20-40 cm, and the control accuracy being ±0.5-1.5 ends / cm;

[0011] S23, combining gauze, double-layer, terry and satin structures in different areas to form area structures,

[0012] The porosity of the gauze structure is 30%-60%, and the pore density is 8-12 pores / cm2;

[0013] The double-layer structure is provided with 1-3 interlacing points per 10-20 mm;

[0014] The terry structure has a loop height of 1.5-3.5 mm and a density of 6-10 loops / cm2;

[0015] The satin structure has a float length of 2-9 ends, a density of 10-15 repeats / cm2, and constructs a multi-level fabric morphology;

[0016] S3, applying a heat treatment step to the woven two-dimensional fabric to activate the three-dimensional structure potential, specifically:

[0017] After the first stage of steam treatment and the second stage of hot air setting, the high-shrinkage polyester fiber is shrunk by 30%-60%, and the silk cocoon is driven to form a three-dimensional pore structure.

[0018] The application is further provided that: the linear density of the high-shrinkage polyester fiber is 1.2-2.0 Dtex, the breaking strength is 3.5-4.5 cN / dtex, the breaking elongation is 30%-45%, the shrinkage rate under 180°C dry heat strip method is 35%-60%, and the silk cocoon is periodically embedded between the silk cocoon in the warping process with a strip width of 5-20 mm, and the embedding frequency is 1 time per 40-60 mm.

[0019] The application is further provided that: the tension regulation in the step S21 is that: the tension of the reference tension area is 40-60 cN, the tension of the relaxation tension area is 12-30 cN, the length of the transition area is 5-15 cm, the switching response time is 0.5-1 s, the switching frequency is 8-12 times per minute, and the control accuracy is ±1-3 cN.

[0020] The present application is further provided that the weft insertion control system adjusts the weft density by servo motor driven weft insertion device, the weft density in high weft density area is 80-110 ends / cm, the weft density in low weft density area is 25-45 ends / cm, the area length is 15-25 cm and 10-20 cm respectively, the alternate period is 20-40 cm, the weft density switching frequency is 4-6 times per minute, and the control accuracy is ±0.5-1.5 ends / cm.

[0021] The present application is further provided that the interlaced weave includes: the air flow area adopts leno weave, the porosity is 30%-60%, and the pore density is 8-12 pores / cm2; the heat insulation area adopts double-layer weave, 1-3 interlaced points are arranged every 10-20 mm, and the layer spacing is 0.5-1.5 mm; the moisture absorption area adopts terry weave, the loop height is 1.5-3.5 mm, and the density is 6-10 loops / cm2; and the transition area adopts satin or twill, the float length is 2-9 ends, and the density is 10-15 repeats / cm2.

[0022] The present application is further provided that the first stage steam treatment is at a temperature of 100-120°C for 30-90 seconds and a humidity of 90%-98%;

[0023] The second stage hot air setting is at a temperature of 160-185°C, a speed of 15-30 m / min, an overfeed rate of +15% to +30%, an air volume of 800-1200 m3 / h, and a dimensional stability of ±0.5%-1.5%.

[0024] The present application is further provided that a mechanical shaping step is included after the heat treatment, a carved roller with a surface temperature of 90-120°C is used for directional calendering, the pattern of the roller is an array of concave-convex patterns with a spacing of 0.3-1 mm, and the calendering frequency is 40-60 times per minute to enhance the three-dimensional effect.

[0025] The present application is further provided that a differential functional additive application step is included after the heat treatment.

[0026] A hydrophilic additive with a concentration of 1%-3% is applied by an inkjet system to the area close to the skin, covering an area of 20%-30%;

[0027] A hydrophobic finishing agent with a concentration of 0.5%-2% is applied to the mesh area with a porosity of greater than 40%, covering an area of 15%-25%; the spraying precision is ±0.05%-0.15%, and the frequency is 4-6 times per minute.

[0028] The present application is further provided that the high-shrinkage fiber is arranged in a dot matrix, 1 high-shrinkage fiber is arranged every 10-30 mulberry silk yarns, the embedded area is in a grid shape, the coverage is 20%-50%, and the grid unit size is 3-7 mm x 3-7 mm.

[0029] The application is further configured to: the three-dimensional multi-level pore structure comprises:

[0030] The first layer of surface micropores has a pore size of 50-200 μm and a density of 15-25 pores per square centimeter;

[0031] The second layer of middle grooves has a width of 200-800 μm and a density of 8-12 channels per square centimeter;

[0032] The third layer of bottom macropores has a size of 0.5-2 mm and a density of 4-6 pores per square centimeter;

[0033] The three layers have a gradient distribution of surface micropores-middle cavities-bottom macropores in the vertical thickness direction, and the gradient slope is 0.1-0.3 mm / cm.

[0034] By adopting the above technical solution, the application has the following beneficial effects:

[0035] Through the directional shrinkage of high-shrinkage polyester fibers, combined with precise warp and weft yarn arrangement, tension gradient and weft density gradient control, multi-scale and multi-level pore channels can be effectively constructed, and the fabric is endowed with natural loftiness and three-dimensionality.

[0036] The multi-level pore structure significantly improves the air permeability and moisture-wicking property of the fabric. In combination with differential hydrophilic treatment, the fabric can quickly absorb and diffuse sweat on the skin surface, effectively avoiding the feeling of stuffiness and improving the dryness and comfort of wearing.

[0037] The hollow structure formed during the weaving process (such as double-layer organization) and the air layer generated after heat treatment can effectively block cold and heat conduction, significantly improving the warmth retention performance of the fabric, and is especially suitable for use in seasons with light and thin but high warmth retention requirements. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0038] Figure 1 The figure is a flowchart of the application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0039] REFERENCE Figure 1 The gradient weaving method of the multi-level pore structure silk fabric of the application is further described.

[0040] In the selection of raw materials, mulberry silk yarn is selected as the main body of the fabric, and high-quality single or multiple mulberry silk in the range of 20Dtex to 60Dtex is selected, with a single fiber fineness requirement of greater than 2.5μm and a cohesion number controlled at 350-450 twists / meter (Z twist). When selecting, it is necessary to ensure that its whiteness is not less than 95%, the color is uniform, and there is no obvious oil stain or damage. The strength of the yarn is required to be not less than 3.5cN / dtex, and the elongation is 15%-20%. To retain the inherent luster, softness and excellent skin-friendliness of silk fibers. At the same time, high-shrinkage polyester fiber yarn with specific shrinkage properties is used, with a linear density range of 1.2-2.0Dtex, a breaking strength requirement of 3.5-4.5cN / dtex, and a breaking elongation of 30%-45%. The key feature of this polyester fiber is its high shrinkage rate under dry heat conditions at 180°C, which can reach 35%-60%, which is the basis for subsequent formation of three-dimensional pore structure. In the warping stage, the yarn is preset to a specific arrangement pattern. In the strip arrangement mode, the strip WIDTH is 5-20mm, and in each strip, the ratio of high-shrinkage polyester fiber to mulberry silk yarn is 1:3 to 1:8. This ratio change will affect the three-dimensional effect and pore density after shrinkage. The embedded area coverage (i.e. the cross-sectional proportion of high-shrinkage fiber in the entire yarn bundle) is controlled at 20%-40%. Finer dot matrix embedding is achieved by inserting 1 high-shrinkage fiber every 10-30 mulberry silk yarns, forming a grid cell of 3-7mm x 3-7mm, with a coverage of 20%-50%. This grid embedding method can more evenly distribute the shrinkage points and is expected to form a more delicate and regular three-dimensional structure.

[0041] Warping operation: the yarn is drawn from the cone rack, passes through the guide, is combined through the clusterer or presser plate combination to form a specified width strip or to control the arrangement of single fibers according to the preset program, and finally is wound on the warping reed to form a warping roll. In this process, the tension needs to be uniform and consistent to ensure the stability of subsequent weaving.

[0042] In the gradient weaving process stage, the depth control of fabric structure is realized on the electronic jacquard loom. First, by warp tension management, the weaving area is divided into a reference tension zone (tension 40-60 cN, 50%-70% area) and a relaxed tension zone (tension 12-30 cN, 30%-50% area), and a transition zone length of 5-15 cm and a switching response time of 0.5-1 s are set, with a control accuracy of ±1-3 cN. This tension differentiation design, especially in the relaxed tension zone, provides space for polyester fibers to effectively drive the formation of loose structure when shrinking. At the same time, the weft density is dynamically adjusted to form high weft density areas (80-110 ends / cm, 15-25 cm long) and low weft density areas (25-45 ends / cm, 10-20 cm long), with an alternating period of 20-40 cm and a control accuracy of ±0.5-1.5 ends / cm. This weft density gradient aims to control the tightness of the area, further affecting the formation of pores. In addition, a variety of weaving organizations are combined, and the fine design of the organization structure aims to weave specific organizations in different areas to provide micro-texture basis for the formation of multi-level pore structure.

[0043] The air flow area adopts leno organization, with an opening rate of up to 30%-60% and a pore density of 8-12 pores / cm2. This area constitutes the first layer of surface micropores of the fabric, ensuring good ventilation and air permeability.

[0044] The heat insulation area adopts double-layer organization, with 1-3 interlacing points set every 10-20 mm to form cavities with an interlayer spacing of 0.5-1.5 mm between the two fiber layers. These cavities constitute the second layer of middle grooves or cavities of the fabric, effectively retaining air and providing thermal insulation function.

[0045] The moisture absorption area adopts terry organization, with a terry loop height of 1.5-3.5 mm and a density of 6-10 loops / cm2. The increased surface area and fluffy terry structure are the carrier of the third layer structure, improving the moisture absorption and skin-friendly touch of the fabric.

[0046] The transition area uses satin or twill organization with 2-9 floats and a density of 10-15 repeats / cm2. These organizations serve as a connection between different functional areas, providing smooth transition and taking into account the overall drape and luster of the fabric.

[0047] The three-dimensional gradient is formed by weaving the above organization units, forming a hierarchical pore gradient composed of "surface fine pores - middle cavities - bottom large pores" in the thickness direction of the fabric. This gradient can be quantified as a gradient slope, controlled at 0.1-0.3 mm / cm, i.e. for every 1 cm of vertical extension, the maximum size or density of the pores changes within this range.

[0048] The woven two-dimensional fabric is converted into a three-dimensional structure by a two-stage heat treatment, which transforms the high shrinkage property of polyester fibers into the three-dimensional structure of the fabric.

[0049] The first stage of steam pretreatment is a saturated steam treatment at a temperature range of 100-120°C for 30-90 seconds at a relative humidity of 90-98%. The steam treatment can increase the moisture content in the silk and polyester fibers, improve the mobility of the molecular segments, increase the plasticity of the fibers, and swell the fibers, creating favorable conditions for subsequent directional shrinkage at high temperatures. At the same time, the high humidity environment helps to achieve more uniform moisture absorption and treatment.

[0050] The second stage of hot air setting and shrinkage induction is to place the fabric pretreated by steam in a hot air setting machine, and process it at a temperature of 160-185°C, with a speed of 15-30 meters / minute. The slower the speed, the longer the fibers stay at high temperatures, and the more fully the shrinkage; the overfeed rate is +15% to +30% (i.e., the running speed of the fabric transfer device is greater than or equal to the running speed of the oven when the fabric enters or leaves the setting area, so that the fabric is slightly stretched when heated). This measure is to "pull" the silk when the polyester fiber shrinks, forming a larger fluffy space; the air volume is 800-1200 cubic meters / hour, and sufficient air volume ensures uniform heat and moisture transfer inside the fabric, avoiding local overheating or deficiency. In this stage, the high-shrinkage polyester fiber shrinks by 30-60%, showing curling, twisting, and axial shrinkage of the polyester fiber, as well as stress generated by lateral shrinkage, which directly pulls the adjacent silk yarn, making it bend and undulate, thus forming a three-dimensional, irregular three-dimensional fluffy structure for the entire fabric. These structures not only include microscopic pores, but also may form medium-sized grooves and macroscopic cavities, which together constitute a three-dimensional multi-level porous structure.

[0051] While achieving the target shrinkage, the dimensional stability of the overall fabric is controlled within ±0.5-1.5%, meaning that while forming a three-dimensional structure, the fabric will not undergo excessive and uncontrollable overall shrinkage or deformation.

[0052] After obtaining the basic three-dimensional structure, mechanical shaping and differential application of functional additives are used to further enhance the texture and functional performance of the fabric.

[0053] The finished fabric is passed through a metal engraved roller with a surface temperature of 90-120°C. The roller has an array of concave-convex patterns with a spacing of 0.3-1 mm. These patterns are not intended to be flattened, but rather to enhance the three-dimensional feel and regularity of the surface texture of the fabric by regularly "imprinting" the fabric surface at a calendering frequency of 40-60 times per minute. This process enhances the three-dimensional feel and regularity of the surface texture of the fabric without destroying the overall three-dimensional pore structure, resulting in a more premium feel. Using high-precision food-grade inkjet printing or digital spraying technology (spraying accuracy ±0.05%-0.15%); spray 1%-3% of a hydrophilic auxiliary agent to the skin area (preset as 20%-30% of the total area of the fabric), which can significantly reduce the surface tension of the fabric, promote rapid wetting, absorption and outward diffusion of sweat; for the mesh area with a porosity of more than 40% (preset as 15%-25% of the total area of the fabric), spray 0.5%-2% of a hydrophobic finishing agent. This measure aims to prevent external liquid water (such as rainwater, beverages) from easily penetrating into the fabric, while allowing water vapor to be discharged. The spraying process is carried out at a frequency of 4-6 times per minute to ensure that the auxiliary agent is evenly and accurately applied to the target area in a short period of time. Through this "regional" chemical modification, the fabric realizes intelligent regulation and control of both moisture absorption and sweat release and water and stain resistance while maintaining the overall three-dimensional pore structure advantage, greatly improving the comfort and practicality of wearing.

[0054] In combination with the above steps, the final output silk fabric has the following three-dimensional multi-level pore structure characteristics: first layer surface micropores (pore size 50-200 μm, density 15-25 holes / cm2), second layer middle groove / cavity (width 200-800 μm, density 8-12 channels / cm2), and third layer bottom macropore (size 0.5-2 mm, density 4-6 holes / cm2). These three layers are distributed in a gradient (gradient slope 0.1-0.3 mm / cm) of surface fine pores-middle cavities-bottom macropores in the vertical thickness direction, which together form the basis for the excellent overall performance of the fabric.

[0055] Example 1:

[0056] Basic gradient weaving and heat treatment:

[0057] Yarns: mulberry silk (30Dtex) 6 + high shrink polyester (1.5Dtex, 45% shrinkage) 1 ; Beaming: strip width 10 mm, 1 :4 ratio; Warp tension: base zone 50 cN (60% area), slack zone 20 cN (40% area), transition zone 10 cm, response time 0.8 s; Weft density: high weft density zone 95 ends / cm (20 cm long), low weft density zone 35 ends / cm (15 cm long), cycle 35 cm; Weave: air flow zone (leno, porosity 45%, density 10 holes / cm2), thermal insulation zone (double layer, 2 points interlaced every 15 mm, layer spacing 1 mm), moisture absorption zone (looping, loop height 2.5 mm, density 8 loops / cm2), transition zone (satin, float length 5, density 12 repeats / cm2); Heat treatment: steam 110°C / 60s / 95% humidity; hot air 175°C, 20 m / min, overfeed +20%, air volume 900 m3 / h; Post-treatment: no mechanical shaping, no functional additives.

[0058] Example 2:

[0059] Yarns: mulberry silk (25Dtex) 5 + high shrink polyester (1.8Dtex, 50% shrinkage) 1 ; Beaming: grid-like embedding, 5 mm x 5 mm unit, 20 silk ends 1 high shrink fiber; Warp tension: base zone 55 cN (65% area), slack zone 18 cN (35% area), transition zone 12 cm, response time 0.6 s; Weft density: high weft density zone 105 ends / cm (22 cm long), low weft density zone 30 ends / cm (18 cm long), cycle 38 cm; Weave: as in example 1, but leno porosity 50%, double layer interlacing points 3, looping loop height 3 mm; Heat treatment: steam 115°C / 70s / 98% humidity; hot air 180°C, 25 m / min, overfeed +25%, air volume 1000 m3 / h; Post-treatment: mechanical shaping: 100°C, pitch 0.5 mm relief pattern, frequency 50 times / min; Functional additives: inkjet application of hydrophilic additives (2%) to 30% area of the skin contact zone, hydrophobic additives (1 %) to 20% area of the mesh zone.

[0060] Example 3:

[0061] Yarns: 8 of mulberry silk (40Dtex) + 1 of high-shrink polyester fiber (1.2Dtex, 60% shrinkage); Beaming: strip width 20mm, 1:8 ratio; Warp tension: 60cN (70% area) in reference zone, 12cN (30% area) in slack zone, 15cm in transition zone, response time 0.5s; Weft density: 110 ends / cm (25cm long) in high weft density zone, 45 ends / cm (10cm long) in low weft density zone, period 20cm; Stitch: leno porosity 60%, 1 double-layer interlacing point, terry loop height 3.5mm; Heat treatment: steam 120°C / 90s / 98% humidity; hot air 185°C, 30m / min, overfeed +30%, air volume 1200m³ / h; Post-treatment: same as Example 2.

[0062] Comparative Scheme A: Yarns use only mulberry silk yarns (30Dtex); weaving and heat treatment: same parameters as Example 1 except that high-shrink polyester fiber is not used. Verify the necessity of high-shrink polyester fiber in forming three-dimensional structure.

[0063] Comparative Scheme B: Warp tension remains constant (e.g. 50cN) throughout the weaving process, without slack tension zone and transition zone. Other parameters are the same as Example 1. Verify the contribution of warp tension gradient to the formation of structure zoning and bulkiness.

[0064] Comparative Scheme C: Weft density remains constant (e.g. 70 ends / cm) throughout the weaving process, without high-low weft density zone. Other parameters are the same as Example 1. Verify the effect of weft density gradient on the formation of structure tightness variation and pore basis.

[0065] Comparative Scheme D: No heat treatment; verify the criticality of heat treatment to activate high-shrink fiber shrinkage and form three-dimensional structure.

[0066] Comparative Scheme E: After completing mechanical shaping, no differential functional additive application is performed. Other parameters are the same as Example 2. Verify the effect of differential functional additive on improving fabric moisture absorption and hydrophobic performance, with specific results as follows:

[0067]

[0068] Explanation of symbols in the table: "X" for poor effect; "△" for general effect; "√" for good effect; "√√" for excellent effect; "√√√" for excellent effect.

[0069] By comparing the performance data of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Schemes A-E, it is found that Comparative Scheme A (without high-shrinkage fibers) performs the worst in terms of three-dimensional structure formation, air permeability, warmth retention, moisture absorption, and bulkiness (rated as "X"). This directly proves that the introduction of high-shrinkage polyester fibers is the basis for forming complex three-dimensional pore structures, and their shrinkage potential is the key driving force for overall performance improvement.

[0070] Comparative Scheme B (uniform warp tension) and Comparative Scheme C (uniform weft density) only achieve a "△" rating in terms of three-dimensional structure formation, air permeability, warmth retention, moisture absorption, and bulkiness, which is significantly lower than Examples 1-3. This highlights the importance of warp tension gradient and weft density gradient in guiding and controlling three-dimensional structure formation. The subtle changes in tension and density are necessary conditions for shaping different scale pores and channels inside the fabric and achieving gradient distribution.

[0071] The performance data of Comparative Scheme D (without heat treatment) also shows a "X" rating, similar to the case without high-shrinkage fibers. This again confirms that heat treatment is a key trigger step for activating the shrinkage of high-shrinkage polyester fibers and truly realizing three-dimensional structure construction.

[0072] Examples 1, 2, and 3 all achieve "√" to "√√√" ratings in terms of three-dimensional structure formation, air permeability, warmth retention, moisture absorption, and bulkiness, far exceeding all comparative schemes. This shows that the method can effectively endow the fabric with excellent performance.

[0073] From Example 1 to Example 3, as the parameters are optimized (such as the increase in shrinkage rate, the refinement of weaving parameters, and the strengthening of heat treatment conditions), the performance indicators show a continuous and significant improvement. For example, the air permeability increases from 120 CFM to 180 CFM, the warmth retention increases from 0.30 Clo to 0.40 Clo, the moisture absorption increases from 500 g / m²·24h to 600 g / m²·24h, and the bulkiness increases from 2.5 mm to 3.8 mm. This shows that the method of the present application has good parameter adjustability and can be optimized in performance according to specific needs.

[0074] Comparative Scheme E (without functional additives) still maintains good performance in terms of air permeability, warmth retention, and bulkiness ("√"), but the moisture absorption decreases significantly (from 550 g / m²·24h in Example 2 to 450 g / m²·24h). This shows that the application of differentiated functional additives has a significant "finishing touch" effect on further improving the moisture absorption performance of the fabric, enabling more refined functional control, and is an important link in improving overall comfort.

[0075] Although there is no separate scheme for mechanical shaping, Example 2 (including mechanical shaping) is better than Example 1 (only basic treatment) in terms of bulkiness and three-dimensional structure formation, indicating that mechanical shaping helps to enhance the three-dimensionality and touch of the fabric.

[0076] In terms of dimensional stability, Examples 1-3 perform well at ±1.5% to ±1.0%, and especially Example 3 achieves an excellent level of ±1.0% by precise control. This indicates that the method can effectively control the dimensional change of the fabric while achieving performance improvement, ensuring product quality.

[0077] In terms of drape, the drape percentage of Examples 1-3 is between 65%-75%, which is in a good range. Although the introduction of high-shrinkage fibers and the formation of three-dimensional structures may affect drape to some extent, through the optimization of weaving organization (such as using twill as a transition) and post-treatment (such as appropriate mechanical shaping), a good balance between functionality and wearing comfort can be achieved.

[0078] The above only describes the preferred embodiments of the present application and is not intended to limit the present application. Those skilled in the art should include all changes and substitutions within the scope of the technical solutions of the present application.

Claims

1. A gradient weaving method of a multi-level porosity structure silk fabric, characterized in that, The method comprises the following steps: S1. Selecting mulberry silk yarn and high-shrinkage polyester fiber yarn as warp and weft yarn raw materials, and arranging them in strip form with a strip width of 5-20 mm and an embedding area coverage of 20%-40% in the beaming stage according to a preset pattern at a ratio of 1 high-shrinkage polyester fiber to 3-8 mulberry silk yarns; S2. Weaving on an electronic jacquard loom, and performing the following operations through a control system: S21. Dividing the warp tension into a reference tension area and a relaxed tension area, the reference tension area having a tension of 40-60 cN and accounting for 50%-70% of the weaving area, and the relaxed tension area having a tension of 12-30 cN and accounting for 30%-50% of the weaving area, the transition area having a length of 5-15 cm, the switching response time being 0.5-1 s, and the control accuracy being ±1-3 cN; S22. Dynamically adjusting the weft density through a beating-up device to form a high weft density area and a low weft density area, the high weft density area having a weft density of 80-110 ends / cm, the area length being 15-25 cm, the low weft density area having a weft density of 25-45 ends / cm, the area length being 10-20 cm, the alternating period being 20-40 cm, and the control accuracy being ±0.5-1.5 ends / cm; S23. Using a combination of leno weave, double-layer weave, terry weave and satin weave to form a regional structure in different areas, the leno weave having a porosity of 30%-60% and a pore density of 8-12 pores / cm2; the double-layer weave having 1-3 interlacing points per 10-20 mm; the terry weave having a loop height of 1.5-3.5 mm and a density of 6-10 loops / cm2; the satin weave having a float length of 2-9 ends and a density of 10-15 repeats / cm2, and constructing a multi-level fabric morphology; S3. Applying a heat treatment step to the woven two-dimensional fabric to activate the three-dimensional structure potential, specifically: shrinking the high-shrinkage polyester fiber by 30%-60% through first-stage steam treatment and then second-stage hot air setting, and driving the mulberry silk to form a three-dimensional pore structure.

2. A gradient weaving method of a multi-level porous structure silk fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The high-shrinkage polyester fiber has a linear density of 1.2-2.0 Dtex, a breaking strength of 3.5-4.5 cN / dtex, a breaking elongation of 30%-45%, a shrinkage rate of 35%-60% under dry heat strip processing at 180°C, and is periodically embedded between the mulberry silk with a strip width of 5-20 mm in the beaming process, with an embedding frequency of once every 40-60 mm.

3. A gradient weaving method of a multi-level porous structure silk fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, The tension regulation in step S21 is as follows: the reference tension area has a tension of 40-60 cN, the relaxed tension area has a tension of 12-30 cN, the transition area has a length of 5-15 cm, the switching response time is 0.5-1 s, the switching frequency is 8-12 times per minute, and the control accuracy is ±1-3 cN.

4. The method of claim 3, wherein the gradient weaving of the multi-level porous silk fabric is characterized by, The weft insertion control system adjusts the weft density through a servo motor beating-up device, the high weft density area has a weft density of 80-110 ends / cm, the low weft density area has a weft density of 25-45 ends / cm, the area lengths are 15-25 cm and 10-20 cm respectively, the alternating period is 20-40 cm, the weft density switching frequency is 4-6 times per minute, and the control accuracy is ±0.5-1.5 ends / cm.

5. A gradient weaving method of a multi-level porous structure silk fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that, The interlaced structure includes: air flow area adopts leno weave, porosity is 30%-60%, and porosity density is 8-12 holes / square centimeter; the heat insulation area adopts double-layer structure, 1-3 interlaced points are arranged every 10-20 millimeters, and layer spacing is 0.5-1.5 millimeters; the moisture absorption area adopts terry weave, loop height is 1.5-3.5 millimeters, and density is 6-10 loops / square centimeter; the transition area adopts satin or twill, and the number of floats is 2-9, and density is 10-15 repeats / square centimeter.

6. The method of claim 2, wherein the gradient weaving of the multi-level porous silk fabric is characterized by, The first stage steam treatment: temperature is 100-120 DEG C, duration is 30-90 seconds, and humidity is 90%-98%; The second stage hot air setting: temperature is 160-185 DEG C, vehicle speed is 15-30 meters / minute, overfeed rate is +15% to +30%, air volume is 800-1200 cubic meters / hour, and dimensional stability is ±0.5%-1.5%.

7. A gradient weaving method of a multi-level porous structure silk fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that, The heat treatment includes a mechanical shaping step, and directional calendering is carried out by using a carved roller with a surface temperature of 90-120 DEG C, the pattern of the roller is an array of concave-convex patterns, the spacing is 0.3-1 millimeter, the calendering frequency is 40-60 times per minute, and the stereoscopic effect is enhanced.

8. The method of claim 6, wherein the gradient weaving of the multi-level porous silk fabric is characterized by, The heat treatment includes a differential functional additive application step: A hydrophilic additive with a concentration of 1%-3% is applied by an inkjet system and is applied to the skin-contacting area, covering 20%-30% of the area; A hydrophobic finishing agent with a concentration of 0.5%-2% is applied to the mesh area with a porosity greater than 40%, covering 15%-25% of the area; the spraying accuracy is ±0.05%-0.15%, and the frequency is 4-6 times per minute.

9. The method of claim 2, wherein the gradient weaving of the multi-level porous silk fabric is characterized by, The high-shrinkage fibers are arranged in a dot matrix, and 1 high-shrinkage fiber is arranged between every 10-30 mulberry silk yarns, the embedded area is in a grid shape, the coverage rate is 20%-50%, and the grid cell size is 3-7 millimeters x 3-7 millimeters.

10. The method of claim 9, wherein the gradient weaving of the multi-level porous silk fabric is characterized by, The three-dimensional multi-level pore structure includes: First layer surface micropores, pore size is 50-200 μm, and density is 15-25 holes / square centimeter; Second layer middle groove, width is 200-800 μm, and density is 8-12 channels / square centimeter; Third layer bottom macropore, size is 0.5-2 mm, and density is 4-6 holes / square centimeter; The three layers are gradient distributed in the surface fine pore-middle cavity-bottom macropore direction, and the gradient slope is 0.1-0.3 millimeter / centimeter.

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