Turn-down collar pattern making method and turn-down collar clothing pattern structure

Abstract

The invention discloses a lapel pattern making method and a lapel garment pattern structure, and the method comprises the steps: determining a reference point based on a shoulder structure of a rear garment piece and a new rear collar ring, carrying out the geometric mapping to a front garment piece, and carrying out the parameterized calculation of the sizes and positions of a collar stand and a collar lining; initial structures of the front collar stand and the rear collar stand and the collar linings are constructed respectively, a second collar stand and a second collar linings are obtained after splicing and sequential optimization, and first looseness is reserved in the second collar linings; constructing a second top collar based on the second under collar, and forming a lapel model based on the second under collar, the second top collar and the second collar stand. The model structure comprises a front garment piece, a rear garment piece, and a second under collar, a second top collar and a second collar stand which are prepared by the method. The method overcomes the defects that a traditional process depends on experience and is low in matching degree and needs to be repeatedly tried and mistaken, the plate making precision and efficiency are remarkably improved, dynamic adaptation of the lapel and the fabric is achieved, the quality of ready-made clothes is guaranteed, and fast-paced production and customization requirements are met.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of clothing, in particular to a collar pattern making method and a collar garment pattern structure. BACKGROUND

[0002] In the production of garments such as men's suits, the collar making is an important link. Most of the existing collar making is made by hand. In the manual production of the collar, the width of the collar stand and the lapel is highly dependent on the experience of the pattern maker for estimation. However, this experience-based calculation method leads to ambiguous sizes due to manual estimation, resulting in structural errors such as insufficient lapel coverage, neck compression by the collar stand, and proportion imbalance.

[0003] At the same time, during the pattern making and design, the real object is highly relied on for trial and error, and multiple sample sewing is required for repeated adjustment, which is time-consuming and material-consuming, and cannot meet the fast-paced production and customization needs. SUMMARY

[0004] The present application aims to solve the above problems, and provides a collar pattern making method and a collar garment pattern structure.

[0005] In order to achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the present application specifically adopts the following technical solutions:

[0006] On the one hand, a collar pattern making method is provided, comprising:

[0007] providing a basic garment pattern;

[0008] determining a first reference point d based on the shoulder structure of the back panel and the new back collar circle, and mapping the first reference point to the front panel to obtain a second reference point a through geometric mapping;

[0009] determining the reference line size and position of the collar stand and the lapel according to the second reference point through parameterized calculation;

[0010] based on the reference line size and position of the collar stand and the lapel, constructing a first back collar stand, a first back lapel, a first front collar stand and a first front lapel;

[0011] splicing the first front collar stand and the first back collar stand to obtain a first collar stand, and splicing the first front lapel and the first back lapel to obtain a first lapel;

[0012] performing a continuous process on the first collar stand and the first lapel to obtain a second collar stand and a second lapel, and reserving a first ease on the second lapel;

[0013] constructing a second collar based on the second lapel, and performing a second ease process at the turning point;

[0014] forming a lapel pattern based on the second collar, the second collar face and the second collar stand.

[0015] In one embodiment, the first reference point d is determined based on the back piece shoulder structure and the new back collar stand, and the first reference point is mapped to the front piece to obtain a second reference point a by geometric mapping, comprising:

[0016] determining a new back collar stand on the back piece of the basic garment pattern, and taking the intersection of the front shoulder line and the new back collar stand as the first reference point d;

[0017] folding the new back collar stand along the shoulder fold line to obtain the second reference point a by mapping the first reference point d to the back shoulder line.

[0018] In one embodiment, the reference line size and position of the collar stand and collar are determined based on the second reference point by parameterized calculation, comprising:

[0019] taking a line segment ab in a predetermined angle direction from the second reference point a, the length of the line segment ab being 2.5-3 cm, as the width of the collar stand on the neck side;

[0020] taking a line segment bc in the direction of the back shoulder line from point b, the length of the line segment bc being 1-1.5 cm longer than the length of the line segment ab, as the width of the back collar on the neck side;

[0021] mapping points a, b and c to the front shoulder line to obtain points d, b' and c', to determine the reference line size and position of the collar stand and collar.

[0022] In one embodiment, the line segment ab in a predetermined angle direction comprises:

[0023] drawing a perpendicular line through the second reference point a and rotating it 30-45° clockwise to intersect with a perpendicular line at a distance L from the back collar center line to obtain point b;

[0024] wherein L = net collar circumference / (2*π)+(0.3 cm-0.5 cm).

[0025] In one embodiment, the preliminary structures of the first back collar stand, the first back collar, the first front collar stand and the first front collar are constructed based on the reference line size and position of the collar stand and the collar, respectively;

[0026] constructing a first back collar stand preliminary structure based on points b' and d, comprising line segments db', b'f, fe and ed, wherein point e is located 2 cm above the intersection of the new back collar stand and the back collar center line, the length of line segment ed is equal to the length of the new back collar stand, and the length of line segment fe is 0-0.5 cm shorter than db';

[0027] constructing a first back collar preliminary structure based on points b', c' and f, including line segments b'c', b'f, fg and gc', wherein the length of line segment fg is 0.5-1 cm shorter than that of b'c';

[0028] constructing a first front collar preliminary structure based on points b' and c' according to collar design requirements, including line segments b'c', b'j, jm, mk and kc';

[0029] constructing a first front collar stand preliminary structure according to the new front collar and the first front collar, including line segments db', b'j, jh and hd.

[0030] In one embodiment, the step of splicing the first front collar stand and the first back collar stand preliminary structures into a first collar stand and splicing the first front collar and the first back collar preliminary structures into a first collar includes:

[0031] splicing the first front collar stand and the first back collar stand along db' to form a first collar stand and splicing the first front collar and the first back collar along b'c' to form a first collar.

[0032] In one embodiment, the method for determining the new front collar includes:

[0033] determining the position of the new front collar shoulder point x according to the distance between the new back collar shoulder point determined according to the back garment piece and the shoulder point of the original basic back collar;

[0034] extending b'j to point T to form a folding line, folding line segments jm and mk along the folding line, and extending m'j and xd to determine intersection point h, thereby determining the new front collar xdhjm'z.

[0035] In one embodiment, when the first collar stand and the first collar are subjected to the continuous processing, the length of the continuous stitching line is the same as the sum of the total lengths of the corresponding line segments before the continuous processing.

[0036] In one embodiment, the surface area of the second collar is greater than that of the second collar.

[0037] In another aspect, a lapel garment pattern structure is also provided, which includes a front garment piece, a back garment piece, and a second collar, a second collar and a second collar stand prepared by the aforementioned lapel pattern making method;

[0038] The front garment piece, the back garment piece, the second collar, the second collar and the second collar stand are respectively half of the front garment piece, the back garment piece, the collar, the collar and the collar stand of a finished garment.

[0039] The beneficial effects of the present application are as follows:

[0040] The present application effectively solves the problems of traditional manual collar making, such as dependence on experience, ambiguous size relationship, low matching degree of front and back collar pieces, and the need for multiple physical trial and error, by providing a systematic and parameterized collar making structure, thereby improving the precision of collar making, eliminating structural defects, reducing trial and error dependence to improve efficiency, simultaneously realizing dynamic adaptation of the collar to fabric characteristics, ensuring garment quality, and meeting fast-paced production and customization needs.

[0041] To more clearly illustrate the structural features and effects of the present application, the present application will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0042] Figure 1 is a flowchart of the collar making method of the present application;

[0043] Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the collar garment pattern structure of the present application;

[0044] Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the back garment piece of the present application;

[0045] Figure 4 is another schematic diagram of the back garment piece of the present application;

[0046] Figure 5 is a schematic diagram of the first back collar lining and the first back collar seat of the present application;

[0047] Figure 6 is a schematic diagram of the front garment piece of the present application.

[0048] Figure 7 is a partially enlarged schematic diagram of the front garment piece of the present application.

[0049] Figure 8 is a schematic diagram of the first collar seat and the first collar lining of the present application.

[0050] Figure 9 is a schematic diagram of the second collar seat and the second collar lining of the present application after the continuous line.

[0051] Figure 10 is a schematic diagram of the second collar seat and the second collar lining of the present application.

[0052] Figure 11 is a schematic diagram of the second collar lining of the present application with a first ease allowance.

[0053] Figure 12 is a process schematic diagram of obtaining a second collar facing according to the second collar lining of the present application.

[0054] Attached labels: 1. Main pattern; 2. Front piece; 3. Back piece; 4. Front shoulder line; 5. Front shoulder seam; 6. Shoulder fold line; 7. Back shoulder seam; 8. Back shoulder line; 9. New back neckline; 10. Base back neckline; 11. First back neck stand; 12. First back neck lining; 13. First front neck stand; 14. First front neck lining; 15. First neck stand; 16. First neck lining; 17. Second neck stand; 18. Second neck lining; 19. First ease allowance; 20. First neckline; 21. Ease allowance; 22. Second ease allowance; 23. Second neckline. Detailed Implementation

[0055] To make the objectives, technical solutions, and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. First, it should be clarified that the lapel pattern actually requires three patterns: the collar lining, the collar facing, and the collar stand.

[0056] like Figures 1-12 As shown, the present invention provides a method for making a lapel pattern, comprising:

[0057] like Figure 2 As shown, a basic garment pattern is provided. In one embodiment, the basic garment pattern can be a men's suit lapel pattern.

[0058] like Figures 3-4 As shown, the first reference point d is determined based on the shoulder structure of the back piece 3 and the new back neckline 9, and the first reference point is mapped to the front piece 2 through geometric mapping to obtain the second reference point a;

[0059] Specifically, based on the pattern of the basic back bodice piece 3, a new back neckline is determined according to design requirements, namely the new back neckline 9. This new back neckline 9 can be obtained by widening the basic neckline by 1cm. Find the intersection of the front shoulder line 4 and the new back neckline 9, and determine this point as the first reference point d.

[0060] Define a virtual shoulder fold line 6, which is the fold line between the front shoulder line 4 and the back shoulder line 8. Flip the new back neckline 9 along this shoulder fold line 6 so that the first reference point d is mapped onto the back shoulder line 8, and determine this mapped point as the second reference point a.

[0061] like Figure 4 As shown, based on the second reference point, the reference line dimensions and positions of the collar seat and collar lining are determined through parametric calculations.

[0062] Specifically, a vertical line is drawn through the second reference point a, and the vertical line is rotated clockwise by 30-45° to intersect with a vertical line at a distance L from the back collar center line to obtain point b. The line segment ab is the reference line of the collar seat, and the length of the line segment ab is 2.5-3 cm, that is, the width of the collar seat on the lateral side of the neck. The distance L of the collar seat from the back collar center line can be calculated by the formula: L = net collar circumference / 2*3.14+0.3-0.5 cm.

[0063] To ensure that the collar can completely cover the collar seat, a line segment bc is drawn from point b towards the back shoulder line 8, and the line segment bc is the reference line of the collar, wherein the length of the line segment bc is 1.2 cm longer than that of ab, and is exemplarily 4 cm, to obtain point c.

[0064] Based on the size and position of the reference lines of the collar seat and the collar, the preliminary structures of the first back collar, the first back collar, the first front collar seat and the first front collar are constructed respectively.

[0065] Specifically, the points a, b and c determined on the back garment piece 3 are mapped to the front shoulder line 4 of the front garment piece 2 by geometric mapping, and are mapped to points d, b' and c' respectively.

[0066] As shown in Figures 4-5 , based on the mapped points b' and d, the preliminary structure of the first back collar 11 is constructed. Specifically, the line segment db' is obtained by connecting the points b' and d. Then the intersection point of the new back collar 9 and the back collar center line is found, and the vertical line segment fe is moved upward by 2 cm, that is, point e. Ensure that the length of the line segment ed is exactly equal to the arc length of the new back collar 9. A vertical line segment fe of the back collar seat height is drawn through point e, which is 0-0.5 cm shorter than the line segment db', preferably 0.2 cm in this embodiment. Connecting points b' and f forms a complete back collar structure, that is, the first back collar 11b'def.

[0067] Based on points b', c' and f, the preliminary structure of the first back collar 12 is constructed, specifically, a line segment fg of the back collar height is drawn through point f and towards point e, which is 0.5-1 cm shorter than the line segment b'c', preferably 0.5 cm in this embodiment. Connecting points g and c' forms a complete back collar structure, that is, the first back collar 12b'c'gf.

[0068] As shown in Figures 6-7 , according to the design requirements of the collar type, the first front collar 14 is constructed based on points b' and c', including line segments b'c', b'j, jm, mk and kc';

[0069] Specifically, as the design basis of the front collar structure, according to the modeling design requirements of the lapel, the design of the first front collar 14 is performed to determine the point k, the point m and the point j, such as the size of the collar mouth, the shape of the folding line, etc.

[0070] According to the new front collar and the first front collar lining 14, the first front collar stand 13 is constructed, including line segments db', b'j, jh and hd.

[0071] Specifically, the distance between the shoulder point of the new back collar 9 and the shoulder point of the original basic back collar 10 is determined according to the back garment piece 3, and the position of the shoulder point x of the new front collar 9 is determined.

[0072] The line segment b'j is extended to point T to form a folding line, the line segments jm and mk are folded along the folding line, and the line segments m'j and xd are extended to determine the intersection point h, thereby determining the front new collar xdhjm'z; according to the edge line dhj of the front new collar and the edge line b'j of the first front collar lining 14, the first front collar stand 13 b'dhj is constructed, and it should be noted that xdh can not be a straight line.

[0073] As shown in the figure, the front collar stand and the back collar stand structure are spliced into the first collar stand 15, and the front collar lining and the back collar lining structure are spliced into the first collar lining 16. Figure 8

[0074] Specifically, the first front collar stand 13 b'dhj and the first back collar stand 11 b'def are spliced along the common line segment db' to form the complete first collar stand 15 jb'fedh. The first front collar lining 14 b'c'kmj and the first back collar lining 12 b'c'gf are spliced along the common line segment b'c' to form the complete first collar lining 16 jb'fgc'km.

[0075] As shown in the figure, the first collar stand 15 and the first collar lining 16 are processed in sequence to obtain the second collar stand 17 and the second collar lining 18, and a first slack 19 is reserved on the second collar lining 18. Figures 9-10 Specifically, the contour lines of the first collar stand 15 and the first collar lining 16 obtained after splicing are trimmed in sequence to form the smooth and fluent second collar stand 17 jfeh and the second collar lining 18 jfgkm. In this process, it must be strictly ensured that the line segment used for sewing the collar, such as hde, maintains the same total length after the sequence to ensure complete matching with the garment body collar; at the same time, it is ensured that the line segments used for sewing the second collar stand 17 and the second collar lining 18 after the sequence have the same length.

[0076] As shown in the figure, in the actual design process, considering that the fabric itself has a thickness and the multiple layers of the collar lining after folding will generate tension, a first slack 19 is added to the structure of the second collar lining 18. The first slack 19 is a slack allowance reserved to compensate for the thickness of the fabric, and its specific size can be adjusted according to the actual thickness of the fabric. In this embodiment, the first slack is 0.15 cm.

[0077] Figure 11

[0078] ​​​As shown in Figure 12 the second collar face 23 is obtained by constructing the first collar face 20 based on the second collar back 18 and processing the second ease 22 at the turning part.

[0079] Specifically, since the collar face needs to cover and wrap the collar back after the collar is folded, the surface area of the collar face must be larger than that of the collar back. For example, based on the optimized second collar back 18, the second collar face 23 is made, and the surface area of the second collar face 23 is larger than that of the second collar back 18. In this embodiment, the peripheral contour of the second collar face 23 is generally uniformly larger than that of the second collar back 18 by 0.2-0.5 cm. It should be noted that additional second ease 22 is processed at the turning part of the collar face, such as the collar angle and the folding starting position, to increase more material allowance to ensure that the part is flat and smooth during folding, without tightness or pulling phenomenon, to achieve the zero deformation effect of high-end clothes. That is, the second collar back 18 is processed with the amount 21 and then processed with the second ease 22 to obtain the second collar face 23. The specific values of the amount 21 and the second ease 22 depend on the fabric thickness and style. In this embodiment, the amount 21 is 0.2-0.3 cm for the back center collar, 0.15 cm for the total longitudinal direction of the front collar, and 0.1 cm for the transverse direction. The second ease 22 is 0.2-0.3 cm.

[0080] The second collar back 18, the second collar face 23, and the second collar stand 17 obtained above are the three patterns of the collar pattern obtained in this embodiment.

[0081] As shown in Figures 2-12 the present application provides a collar garment pattern structure, which comprises a front garment piece, a back garment piece, and a second collar back, a second collar face, and a second collar stand prepared by the collar pattern making method described above.

[0082] The front garment piece, the back garment piece, the second collar back, the second collar face, and the second collar stand are respectively half of the front garment piece, the back garment piece, the collar back, the collar face, and the collar stand of the finished garment.

[0083] The back garment piece 3 is provided with a reference point, such as a first reference point d, which serves as a reference to calculate the size and position of the collar stand and the collar back. The size and position of the collar stand and the collar back on the back garment piece 3 are calculated through the reference point, and after obtaining the size and position of the collar stand and the collar back on the back garment piece 3, the size and position of the collar stand and the collar back on the front garment piece 2 can be positioned, that is, the position and size of the collar are quantified through accurate data calculation, reducing the dependence on manual experience, and greatly reducing structural errors caused by ambiguous size. At the same time, it can reduce the dependence on trial and error, and there is no need to repeatedly adjust the pattern through multiple sample sewing, which greatly improves the design efficiency and reduces the investment of materials and labor time.

[0084] The above description of the disclosed embodiments enables those skilled in the art to make or use the invention. Various modifications to these embodiments will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, and the general principles defined herein may be implemented in other embodiments without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Therefore, the invention is not to be limited to the embodiments shown herein, but is to be accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and novel features disclosed herein.

Claims

1. A method for making a lapel pattern, characterized in that, include: Provide a basic clothing pattern; The first reference point d is determined based on the shoulder structure of the back piece and the new back neckline, and the first reference point is mapped to the front piece through geometric mapping to obtain the second reference point a; Based on the second reference point, the reference line dimensions and positions of the collar stand and collar lining are determined through parametric calculations; Based on the baseline dimensions and positions of the collar stand and the collar lining, the preliminary structures of the first back collar stand, the first back collar lining, the first front collar stand, and the first front collar lining are constructed respectively. The first front collar seat and the first back collar seat are assembled into a first collar seat, and the first front collar lining and the first back collar lining are assembled into a first collar lining. The first collar seat and the first collar lining are connected to obtain the second collar seat and the second collar lining, and a first loose allowance is reserved on the second collar lining; Construct a second collar face based on the second collar lining, and perform a second loosening treatment at the turning points; Based on the second collar lining, the second collar facing, and the second collar stand, a lapel pattern is formed.

2. The plate-making method according to claim 1, characterized in that, The process of determining a first reference point d based on the shoulder structure of the back garment piece and the new back neckline, and mapping the first reference point to the front garment piece through geometric mapping to obtain a second reference point a includes: A new back neckline is determined on the back piece of the basic garment pattern, and the intersection of the front shoulder line and the new back neckline is taken as the first reference point d. The new back neckline is flipped along the shoulder fold line so that the first reference point d is mapped onto the back shoulder line, thus obtaining the second reference point a.

3. The plate-making method according to claim 1, characterized in that, The step of determining the baseline dimensions and positions of the collar stand and collar lining through parametric calculation based on the second reference point includes: Starting from the second reference point a, take a line segment ab along a preset angle direction. The length of the line segment ab is 2.5 to 3 cm, which is used as the width of the collar seat on the side of the neck. Starting from point b, take line segment bc towards the back shoulder line, making the length of line segment bc 1 to 1.5 cm longer than line segment ab, and use it as the width of the back neck lining on the side of the neck. Map points a, b, and c onto the front shoulder line, mapping them to points d, b′, and c′, to determine the baseline dimensions and positions of the collar stand and collar lining.

4. The plate-making method according to claim 3, characterized in that, The step of taking line segment ab along the preset angle direction includes: Draw a perpendicular line through the second reference point a and rotate it clockwise by 30° to 45° until it intersects the perpendicular line at a distance L from the center line of the back collar, thus obtaining point b; Where L = net neck circumference / (2*π) + (0.3cm~0.5cm).

5. The plate-making method according to claim 3, characterized in that, Based on the baseline dimensions and positions of the collar stand and the collar lining, the preliminary structures of the first back collar stand, the first back collar lining, the first front collar stand, and the first front collar lining are constructed respectively. The initial structure of the first back collar seat is constructed based on points b′ and d, including line segments db′, b′f, fe and ed. Point e is located 2cm above the intersection of the new back collar and the back collar center line. The length of line segment ed is equal to the length of the new back collar, and the length of line segment fe is 0 to 0.5cm shorter than db′. Based on points b′, c′ and f, construct the initial structure of the first rear collar, including line segments b′c′, b′f, fg and gc′, wherein the length of line segment fg is 0.5 to 1 cm shorter than that of b′c′; Based on the collar design requirements, the preliminary structure of the first front collar is constructed based on points b' and c', including line segments b'c', b'j, jm, mk, and kc'; Construct the preliminary structure of the first front collar seat based on the new front collar and the first front collar lining, including line segments db′, b′j, jh and hd.

6. The plate-making method according to claim 5, characterized in that, The step of assembling the preliminary structures of the first front collar seat and the first back collar seat into a first collar seat, and assembling the preliminary structures of the first front collar lining and the first back collar lining into a first collar lining, includes: Join the first front collar seat and the first back collar seat along db′ to form the first collar seat; join the first front collar lining and the first back collar lining along b′c′ to form the first collar lining.

7. The plate-making method according to claim 5, characterized in that, The method for determining the new front collar includes: Based on the distance between the shoulder point of the new back neckline determined by the back piece and the shoulder point of the original basic back neckline, determine the position of the shoulder point x of the new front neckline; Extend b'j to point T to form a fold line. Fold line segments jm and mk along the fold line and extend m'j and xd to determine the intersection point h, thereby determining the new collar xdhjm'z.

8. The plate-making method according to claim 1, characterized in that, When the first collar stand and the first collar lining are connected, the length of the stitch after connection is the same as the sum of the total lengths of the corresponding line segments before connection.

9. The plate-making method according to claim 1, characterized in that, The surface area of ​​the second collar face is greater than the surface area of ​​the second collar lining.

10. A collared garment pattern structure, characterized in that, The collared garment pattern structure includes a front piece, a back piece, and a second collar lining, a second collar facing, and a second collar stand prepared by the method described in claims 1 to 9; The front piece, back piece, second collar lining, second collar facing, and second collar stand are each half of the front piece, back piece, collar lining, collar facing, and collar stand of the finished garment.

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