A dual-effect anti-wrinkle and penetration-enhancing composition, its preparation method and application

Abstract

This invention relates to an anti-wrinkle and penetration-enhancing dual-effect composition, its preparation method, and its application, belonging to the field of cosmetic technology. The composition comprises phytol, isosorbide dimethyl ether, trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid copolymer, and camellia seed oil fermented by a complex of lactic acid bacteria and yeast in a specific ratio. During preparation, the components are mixed and heated to 70-75°C to disperse evenly, then cooled to room temperature. This composition solves the problems of insufficient penetration and poor stability of active ingredients in existing products, achieving a synergistic effect of anti-wrinkle and penetration-enhancing effects. It exhibits excellent storage and light stability and can be added at a concentration of 10%-30% to face creams, lotions, serums, or eye creams, making it suitable for the development of highly effective and gentle skincare products.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of cosmetic technology and relates to an anti-wrinkle and penetration-promoting dual-effect composition, its preparation method, and its application. Background Technology

[0002] With the upgrading of skincare demands, anti-wrinkle cosmetics have become one of the mainstream categories in the market. The formation of skin wrinkles is closely related to factors such as collagen loss, weakened skin barrier function, and insufficient penetration of active ingredients. Currently, most anti-wrinkle cosmetics on the market achieve their anti-wrinkle effects by adding active ingredients such as retinol, peptides, and vitamin C. However, they generally suffer from two major problems: First, the penetration efficiency of active ingredients is low. The lipid bilayer structure of the stratum corneum forms a natural barrier, making it difficult for most large-molecule or hydrophobic active ingredients to penetrate the stratum corneum to reach their target sites, resulting in a significant reduction in efficacy. Second, the composition has poor stability. Active ingredients are prone to aggregation and oxidation, or have poor compatibility with other components, leading to problems such as layering, discoloration, and odor during product storage, affecting the user experience and the duration of efficacy.

[0003] To address penetration issues, existing technologies often employ the addition of penetration enhancers (such as ethanol and propylene glycol). However, traditional penetration enhancers often suffer from drawbacks such as strong irritation, limited penetration-enhancing effects, and insufficient synergy with anti-wrinkle ingredients. Regarding stability, some solutions improve stability by adding preservatives and antioxidants, but these often increase the burden on the skin and may even trigger allergic reactions. Furthermore, natural oils (such as camellia seed oil), rich in unsaturated fatty acids and active substances, are frequently used in anti-wrinkle products. However, the molecular structure of natural camellia seed oil results in poor compatibility with other components and its susceptibility to oxidative rancidity, limiting its effectiveness.

[0004] The application of fermentation technology in cosmetic raw materials is gradually increasing. However, most existing fermented oils use single-strain fermentation, making it difficult to simultaneously achieve ingredient modification and stability improvement. Some compound-strain fermentation schemes suffer from unstable fermentation product performance due to improper strain ratios, and are prone to problems such as stratification and precipitation when combined with other skin care ingredients. At the same time, existing anti-wrinkle compositions lack a systematic design that synergistically promotes penetration, reduces wrinkles, and stabilizes, often focusing on a single effect, which fails to meet consumers' demand for highly effective, stable, and gentle anti-wrinkle products.

[0005] Given the shortcomings of existing technologies, developing a composition that combines highly efficient penetration enhancement, significant anti-wrinkle effects, and excellent stability has become a pressing technical problem in the cosmetics industry. This invention, through screening specific core ingredients, optimizing component ratios, and innovating fermentation processes, constructs a composition with synergistic anti-wrinkle and penetration-enhancing effects and outstanding stability, effectively overcoming the deficiencies of existing technologies. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The purpose of this invention is to provide an anti-wrinkle and penetration-enhancing dual-effect composition, its preparation method, and its application. This composition achieves efficient penetration of active ingredients and improvement of skin wrinkles through the synergistic effect of specific core components, while also possessing excellent storage stability and light stability, making it suitable for the development of various skin care products.

[0007] The objective of this invention can be achieved through the following technical solutions:

[0008] An anti-wrinkle and penetration-promoting dual-effect composition, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 5-15 parts phytol, 8-20 parts isosorbide dimethyl ether, 10-25 parts trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid copolymer, and 30-50 parts fermented camellia seed oil.

[0009] The fermented camellia seed oil is obtained by fermentation using a compound strain of lactic acid bacteria and yeast.

[0010] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the concentration of the lactic acid bacteria solution used for preparing fermented camellia seed oil is 1.0 × 10⁻⁶. 8 -5.0×10 8 CFU / mL, yeast culture concentration 5.0 × 10⁻⁶ 7 -2.0×10 8 The concentration of CFU / mL was such that the mass ratio of lactic acid bacteria solution to yeast solution was 2:1-3:1.

[0011] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the phytol is extracted from corn germ or deodorized fraction of soybean oil.

[0012] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the molecular weight of the trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid copolymer is 5000-8000.

[0013] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the preparation of fermented camellia seed oil includes four steps: strain activation, compound strain preparation, fermentation, and post-treatment, wherein the fermentation temperature is 32-35℃ and the fermentation time is 48-72h.

[0014] The preparation method of the above-mentioned anti-wrinkle and penetration-enhancing dual-effect composition includes the following steps:

[0015] W1. Mix phytol, isosorbide dimethyl ether, trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid copolymer, and fermented camellia seed oil, and heat to 70-75℃ to disperse evenly;

[0016] W2. After cooling to below 45°C, continue cooling to room temperature.

[0017] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cooling process in step W2 involves slow stirring at a speed of 300 r / min.

[0018] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic is a face cream, lotion, essential oil or eye cream, and the amount of the composition added to the cosmetic is 10%-30%.

[0019] The beneficial effects of this invention are:

[0020] (1) The anti-wrinkle activity of phytol complements the penetration-enhancing effect of isosorbide dimethyl ether. Combined with camellia seed oil modified by fermentation of compound bacteria, it can help the active ingredients penetrate the stratum corneum of the skin efficiently and reach the target point directly, thereby improving the skin wrinkles from the root and enhancing the skin's elasticity and recovery ability.

[0021] (2) A specific ratio of trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid copolymer forms a stable system with fermented camellia seed oil, solving the problems of easy stratification, precipitation, and discoloration in traditional anti-wrinkle compositions. It can maintain good physical form and chemical stability in room temperature, high temperature, low temperature environments, or under long-term light exposure, thus extending the product's shelf life.

[0022] (3) It abandons the traditional penetration enhancers and auxiliary ingredients with strong irritation and selects natural raw materials such as phytosterol and fermented camellia seed oil. The components have excellent compatibility. It will not increase the burden on the skin when used, reduce the risk of allergies, and is suitable for a variety of skin types. It can also be flexibly compounded into various cosmetics such as face creams, lotions, and serums. Detailed Implementation

[0023] To further illustrate the technical means and effects of the present invention in achieving its intended purpose, the following detailed description of the specific implementation methods, structures, features, and effects of the present invention, in conjunction with embodiments, is provided below.

[0024] The parameters of the compound microbial strains in the examples are shown in Table 1 below:

[0025] project Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Lactic acid bacteria concentration (CFU / mL) <![CDATA[2.0×10 8 ]]> <![CDATA[3.0×10 8 ]]> <![CDATA[4.0×10 8 ]]> Yeast culture concentration (CFU / mL) <![CDATA[1.0×10 8 ]]> <![CDATA[1.5×10 8 ]]> <![CDATA[1.3×10 8 ]]> Microbial culture mass ratio (lactum: yeast) 2:1 2.5:1 3:1 Fermentation temperature (°C) 33 34 35 Fermentation time (h) 60 56 72

[0026] The specific formulations for Examples 1-3 are shown in Table 2 below:

[0027] Components Example 1 (parts by weight) Example 2 (parts by weight) Example 3 (parts by weight) Phytosterol 8 10 12 Isosorbide dimethyl ether 12 15 18 Trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid copolymer 15 20 22 Fermented camellia seed oil 35 40 45 glycerin 6 8 10 Sodium hyaluronate 0.5 0.8 1.0

[0028] Key preparation parameters for each embodiment: Example 1: homogenization speed 4500 r / min, emulsification time 22 min; Example 2: homogenization speed 4800 r / min, emulsification time 25 min; Example 3: homogenization speed 4200 r / min, emulsification time 20 min.

[0029] Comparative Example 1

[0030] It does not contain phytol; the remaining components and steps are the same as in Example 1.

[0031] Comparative Example 2

[0032] It does not contain isosorbide dimethyl ether, but is replaced with an equal mass of fermented camellia seed oil. The remaining components and steps are the same as in Example 1.

[0033] Comparative Example 3

[0034] It does not contain trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid copolymer, but is replaced with an equal mass of phytol. The remaining components and steps are the same as in Example 1.

[0035] Comparative Example 4

[0036] Unfermented camellia seed oil was used instead of fermented camellia seed oil, and the remaining components and steps were the same as in Example 1.

[0037] Comparative Example 5

[0038] The mass ratio of the compound microbial strains is 1:1, and the remaining components and steps are as described in Example 1.

[0039] Comparative Example 6

[0040] Ethanol was used instead of isosorbide dimethyl ether, and the remaining components and steps were the same as in Example 1.

[0041] Comparative Example 7

[0042] The trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid copolymer was replaced with polyethylene glycol-400, and the remaining components and steps were the same as in Example 1.

[0043] Comparative Example 8

[0044] Camellia seed oil was fermented using a single lactic acid bacteria, without yeast. The remaining components and steps were the same as in Example 1.

[0045] Performance testing

[0046] 1. Storage stability test

[0047] Room temperature stability: Place the sample in a 25℃ constant temperature chamber and observe its appearance (whether there is stratification, precipitation, discoloration, or odor) at 0 days, 30 days, 60 days, 90 days, and 180 days. The dispersion stability is tested by centrifugation (3000r / min, 15min). No stratification is considered qualified.

[0048] High temperature stability: The samples were placed in a 45℃ constant temperature chamber and the above-mentioned appearance and centrifugal stability tests were performed at 0 days, 10 days, 20 days, 30 days and 60 days respectively.

[0049] Low temperature stability: The sample was placed in a -10℃ low temperature chamber and the above tests were performed at 0 days, 10 days, 20 days, 30 days and 60 days respectively. It was considered qualified if there were no abnormalities after returning to room temperature.

[0050] 2. Illumination stability test

[0051] The samples were placed in an ultraviolet light chamber (light intensity 4500±500 lx) and the color change grade was observed after 7, 14 and 21 days of light exposure (Grade 0: no color change; Grade 1: slight color change; Grade 2: obvious color change; Grade 3: severe color change). The phytol retention rate was determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

[0052] 3. In vitro skin permeation test

[0053] The Franz diffusion cell method was used, with nude mouse skin (subcutaneous fat removed) as the transdermal barrier. The receiving cell volume was 6.5 mL, and the receiving solution was phosphate buffer (pH 7.4) containing 0.5% Tween-80. The stirring speed was 300 rpm, and the temperature was 37 ± 0.5 °C. 0.2 g of sample was evenly applied to the skin surface (effective penetration area 1.77 cm²). 500 μL samples were taken at 2 h, 4 h, 8 h, 12 h, and 24 h, and an equal volume of fresh receiving solution was added. The phytol concentration in the receiving solution was determined by HPLC, and the cumulative permeation (μg / cm²) was calculated.

[0054] 4. Anti-wrinkle performance test

[0055] Skin elasticity recovery rate (R2): Thirty volunteers aged 25-45 (with obvious fine lines around the eyes) were randomly divided into three groups (10 people in each group). The volunteers used samples from Examples 1-3, while the control group used sample from Comparative Example 1. The samples were applied morning and evening after cleansing for 8 consecutive weeks. The R2 values ​​were measured using a skin elasticity analyzer before use, at 4 weeks of use, and at 8 weeks of use (a higher R2 value indicates stronger elasticity recovery).

[0056] Wrinkle depth improvement rate: Images of wrinkles around the eyes were captured using a skin wrinkle analyzer. The average wrinkle depth was calculated after 4 and 8 weeks of use and compared with the value before use to calculate the improvement rate: Wrinkle depth improvement rate = (wrinkle depth before use - wrinkle depth after use) / wrinkle depth before use × 100%.

[0057] Storage stability test results

[0058] Table 3 Storage stability test results (“Pass” means no stratification, precipitation, discoloration, or odor; “Fail” means at least one abnormality is present)

[0059] sample 180 days at room temperature 60 days of high temperatures 60 days of low temperature Example 1 qualified qualified qualified Example 2 qualified qualified qualified Example 3 qualified qualified qualified Comparative Example 1 qualified 90-day stratification 60-day settling time Comparative Example 2 60-day stratification 30-day stratification 30-day settling time Comparative Example 3 Immediate layering Immediate layering Immediate sedimentation Comparative Example 4 90-day stratification 60-day stratification 60-day crystallization Comparative Example 5 120-day stratification 60-day stratification 60-day settling time Comparative Example 6 qualified 60-day color change qualified Comparative Example 7 60-day stratification 30-day stratification 30-day settling time Comparative Example 8 90-day stratification 60-day stratification 60-day crystallization

[0060] Light stability test results

[0061] Table 4. Results of light stability and phytol retention rate tests

[0062] sample 7 days of sunlight exposure (color change level) 14 days of sunlight exposure (color change level) 21 days of sunlight exposure (color change level) Phytosterol retention rate (%) after 21 days of light exposure Example 1 Level 0 Level 0 Level 1 92.5 Example 2 Level 0 Level 0 Level 1 93.8 Example 3 Level 0 Level 0 Level 1 91.9 Comparative Example 1 Level 0 Level 1 Level 2 (Phytosterol-free) Comparative Example 2 Level 1 Level 2 Level 2 78.3 Comparative Example 3 Level 1 Level 2 Level 3 75.2 Comparative Example 4 Level 0 Level 1 Level 2 80.8 Comparative Example 5 Level 0 Level 1 Level 2 81.3 Comparative Example 6 Level 1 Level 2 Level 3 73.7 Comparative Example 7 Level 1 Level 2 Level 3 72.8 Comparative Example 8 Level 1 Level 2 Level 2 77.6

[0063] In vitro skin penetration test results

[0064] Table 5. Results of cumulative phytol permeation test (unit: μg / cm²)

[0065] sample 2h 4h 8h 12h 24h Example 1 12.6 25.4 48.8 65.3 89.7 Example 2 13.9 27.6 51.3 69.0 93.5 Example 3 14.3 28.2 52.6 70.4 95.2 Comparative Example 1 (Phytosterol-free) (Phytosterol-free) (Phytosterol-free) (Phytosterol-free) (Phytosterol-free) Comparative Example 2 7.6 15.3 30.2 42.7 59.0 Comparative Example 3 6.9 14.4 28.8 40.3 55.8 Comparative Example 4 9.3 18.6 35.7 49.0 65.9 Comparative Example 5 9.8 19.5 37.2 50.8 68.4 Comparative Example 6 8.2 16.4 31.9 44.6 60.6 Comparative Example 7 8.5 16.9 32.5 45.3 62.1 Comparative Example 8 9.0 18.1 34.9 48.2 64.7

[0066] Anti-wrinkle performance test results

[0067] Table 6 Results of Skin Elasticity Recovery Rate (R2) Test

[0068] sample Before use Use for 4 weeks Use for 8 weeks Example 1 0.42 0.58 0.73 Example 2 0.43 0.61 0.76 Example 3 0.41 0.59 0.74 Comparative Example 1 0.42 0.43 0.45 Comparative Example 2 0.43 0.49 0.60 Comparative Example 3 0.42 0.44 0.46 Comparative Example 4 0.42 0.52 0.65 Comparative Example 5 0.42 0.53 0.66 Comparative Example 6 0.43 0.51 0.62 Comparative Example 7 0.43 0.50 0.61 Comparative Example 8 0.42 0.51 0.64

[0069] Table 7. Results of wrinkle depth improvement rate test (unit: %)

[0070] sample Use for 4 weeks Use for 8 weeks Example 1 28.4 45.8 Example 2 30.6 49.0 Example 3 29.2 46.6 Comparative Example 1 1.2 2.5 Comparative Example 2 15.3 28.7 Comparative Example 3 1.5 3.0 Comparative Example 4 18.5 35.2 Comparative Example 5 19.2 36.8 Comparative Example 6 16.5 30.0 Comparative Example 7 16.1 29.5 Comparative Example 8 17.8 34.5

[0071] The above description is merely a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the present invention in any way. Although the present invention has been disclosed above with reference to preferred embodiments, it is not intended to limit the present invention. Any person skilled in the art can make some modifications or alterations to the above-disclosed technical content to create equivalent embodiments without departing from the scope of the present invention. Any simple modifications, equivalent changes and alterations made to the above embodiments based on the technical essence of the present invention without departing from the scope of the present invention shall still fall within the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. An anti-wrinkle, enhanced-penetration, two- effect composition characterized in that, Phytol 5-15 parts, isosorbide dimethyl ether 8-20 parts, trimethyl pentanediol / adipic acid copolymer 10-25 parts, fermented camellia seed oil 30-50 parts; The fermented camellia seed oil is obtained by fermentation of a complex bacterial strain composed of lactic acid bacterial liquid and yeast bacterial liquid; The concentration of the lactic acid bacteria liquid for preparing the fermented camellia seed oil is 1.0×10 8 -5.0×10 8 CFU / mL, the concentration of the yeast liquid is 5.0×10 7 -2.0×10 8 CFU / mL, and the mass ratio of the lactic acid bacteria liquid to the yeast liquid is 2:1-3:

1. The preparation of the fermented camellia seed oil comprises four steps of bacterial strain activation, complex bacterial strain preparation, fermentation and post-treatment, wherein the fermentation temperature is 32-35℃ and the fermentation time is 48-72h.

2. The anti-wrinkle penetration boosting two-in-one composition according to claim 1, wherein The phytol is extracted from corn germ or soybean oil deodorization fraction.

3. The anti-wrinkle penetration boosting two-in-one composition according to claim 1, wherein The molecular weight of the trimethyl pentanediol / adipic acid copolymer is 5000-8000.

4. A method for preparing the anti-wrinkle penetration-boosting two- effect composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by, The method comprises the following steps: W1. Mix phytol, isosorbide dimethyl ether, trimethyl pentanediol / adipic acid copolymer and fermented camellia seed oil, and heat to 70-75℃ to disperse uniformly; W2. Continue to cool to room temperature after cooling to below 45℃.

5. The preparation method according to claim 4, characterized in that, The cooling process in step W2 is slowly stirred at a speed of 300r / min.

6. Use of the anti-wrinkle penetration-boosting double-effect composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in a cosmetic product, characterized in that, The cosmetic is a cream, emulsion, essence oil or eye cream, and the addition amount of the composition in the cosmetic is 10%-30%.