Preparation method of wrinkled garment pattern and garment pattern applying method

Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method of a wrinkled garment pattern and a garment pattern applying the method, and the method comprises the following steps: setting the length of a wrinkled lower hem and a wrinkling proportion, and calculating the length of a target lower hem of a wrinkled garment piece and the total amplification amount; according to the connecting length proportion of the basic garment piece and the lower hem, the total magnification is scientifically distributed to the front garment piece and the rear garment piece, and the accurate magnification length is obtained. Further, the key structure lines are equally divided and extended to a chest high point line or a shoulder blade line, the amount releasing position is determined, and the final wrinkled cut piece model is formed through unfolding operation. The wrinkled lower hem of the garment made of the pattern is uniform and orderly, the problems of uneven stress, deflection, twist and side seam displacement of the garment caused by randomness in a traditional method are effectively solved, the attractiveness is remarkably improved, and the disorder and low-cost feeling is avoided.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the technical field of garment pleating, specifically relating to a method for preparing a pleated garment pattern and a garment pattern using this method. Background Technology

[0002] In garment making, gathering is a common technique, also known as pleating or tufting. It involves sewing a longer piece of fabric to a shorter part, such as the body of a garment or another side, and then tightening the stitches or applying external pressure to force the longer fabric to shrink and gather, thus creating a regular, three-dimensional pleated effect.

[0003] In existing ruching methods, the production of ruched hems in garments largely depends on the operator's experience. However, when the operator lacks experience or when an experienced operator makes a mistake, the increased amount of fabric may not be absorbed by the garment structure. This can easily lead to problems such as a crooked hem, side seams shifting forward or backward, uneven fabric stacking, or even overall twisting after the garment is worn. As a result, the hem of the final garment is messy, which damages the overall outline and aesthetics of the garment.

[0004] Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop solutions to alleviate the problems associated with current wrinkle-removing methods. Summary of the Invention

[0005] The purpose of this invention is to provide a method for preparing a pleated garment pattern and a garment pattern using this method, in order to solve the problems in the prior art.

[0006] Therefore, the present invention provides a method for preparing a pleated garment pattern, comprising:

[0007] Provides a basic garment pattern and a gathered hem with a preset length and gathering ratio of 1;

[0008] Based on the length one and the ruching ratio one, the hem length two of the ruched garment pattern is obtained, wherein the preset length one of the ruched hem is the same as the hem length three of the basic garment pattern.

[0009] Based on the first length, the second hem length, and the basic garment pattern, the hem length, position, and position of the garment pattern before gathering are processed to obtain the second hem length, position, and position of the garment pattern after gathering.

[0010] The front gathered garment pattern is determined based on the first hem length, the first hem position, and the second hem position; the back gathered garment pattern is determined based on the second hem length, the third hem position, and the fourth hem position.

[0011] In one embodiment, the hem length two of the gathered garment pattern is obtained based on the length one and the gathering ratio one by means of the following method:

[0012] The hem length 2 = the length 1 * the pleat ratio 1.

[0013] In one embodiment, processing the hem length one and hem length two of the gathered pre-gathering garment pattern based on the first length, the second hem length, and the basic garment pattern includes:

[0014] Obtain the total allowance length of the gathered garment pattern;

[0015] A connection length 1 between the basic front bodice pattern and the gathered hem is preset, and a connection length 2 between the basic back bodice pattern and the gathered hem is obtained based on the connection length 1.

[0016] Based on the first connection length, the second connection length, and the first total release length, the first lower placement length and the second lower placement length are obtained.

[0017] In one embodiment, the total allowance length of the gathered garment pattern is obtained by the following calculation method:

[0018] C = LA;

[0019] Where C represents the total length of the release;

[0020] L is the hem length of the gathered garment pattern;

[0021] A is the length of the gathered hem.

[0022] In one embodiment, the connection length one between the preset basic front garment pattern and the gathered hem, and the processing based on the connection length one to obtain the connection length two between the basic back garment pattern and the gathered hem, include:

[0023]

[0024] Where Y is the connection length;

[0025] X is the connection length;

[0026] A is the length of the gathered hem.

[0027] In one embodiment, obtaining the lower placement length one based on the connection length one, the connection length two, and the total placement length one includes:

[0028]

[0029] Where 'a' represents the length of the lower placement;

[0030] Y represents the connection length two;

[0031] X is the connection length;

[0032] C represents the total length of the release.

[0033] In one embodiment, obtaining the lower placement length two based on the connection length one, the connection length two, and the total placement length one includes:

[0034]

[0035] Where b is the length of the lower placement;

[0036] Y represents the connection length two;

[0037] X is the connection length;

[0038] C represents the total length of the release.

[0039] In one embodiment, the process of obtaining the hem length position one and hem length position two of the pre-gathering garment pattern based on the first length, the second hem length, and the basic garment pattern includes:

[0040] Based on the first connection point of the front bust line, the edge of the gathered hem is mapped to the front bust line.

[0041] Divide the first connection point to one end of the front bust line near the armhole into three equal parts to obtain the second and third connection points;

[0042] Map the second and third connection points to the hem edge of the basic front garment pattern to obtain the fourth and fifth connection points;

[0043] Connect the second connection point and the fourth connection point respectively, and connect the third connection point and the fifth connection point to form the first connection line and the second connection line;

[0044] Extend the first connecting line and the second connecting line towards the chest height line respectively to obtain the sixth connecting point and the seventh connecting point;

[0045] Connect the fourth connection point and the sixth connection point to obtain the lower placement position one;

[0046] Connect the fifth connection point and the seventh connection point to determine the second position of the lower placement quantity;

[0047] The process of obtaining the hem length position three and hem length position four of the gathered garment pattern based on the first length, the second hem length, and the basic garment pattern includes:

[0048] The edge of the gathered hem is mapped to the eighth connection point of the back bust line;

[0049] Divide the line from the eighth connection point to the end of the front bust line near the armhole into three equal parts to obtain the ninth and tenth connection points.

[0050] Map the ninth and tenth connection points to the hem edge of the basic back garment pattern to obtain the eleventh and twelfth connection points;

[0051] Connect the ninth and eleventh connection points respectively, and connect the tenth and twelfth connection points to form the third and fourth connection lines;

[0052] Extend the third and fourth connecting lines towards the scapular line to obtain the thirteenth and fourteenth connecting points;

[0053] Connect the eleventh connection point and the thirteenth connection point to obtain the lower placement position three;

[0054] Connect the twelfth connection point and the fourteenth connection point to obtain the lower placement position four.

[0055] In one embodiment, determining the gathered front garment pattern based on the hem length one and the hem position one, and determining the gathered back garment pattern based on the hem length two and the hem position two, includes:

[0056] On the basic front garment pattern, with the sixth connection point as the origin, cut along the lower hem position and rotate at the fourth connection point to increase the lower hem length by half; with the seventh connection point as the origin, cut along the lower hem position by two and rotate at the fifth connection point to increase the lower hem length by half; to determine the gathered front garment pattern.

[0057] On the basic back garment pattern, with the thirteenth connection point as the origin, it is divided into three parts along the lower hem position and rotated at the eleventh connection point to increase the lower hem length by half; with the fourteenth connection point as the origin, it is divided into four parts along the lower hem position and rotated at the twelfth connection point to increase the lower hem length by half; thus determining the gathered back garment pattern.

[0058] On the other hand, a ruched garment pattern is also provided, which includes a ruched hem pattern, a ruched front garment pattern, and a ruched back garment pattern prepared by a ruching method.

[0059] The gathered front garment pattern and the gathered back garment pattern are half of the gathered front garment pattern and the gathered back garment pattern of the finished gathered garment.

[0060] Beneficial effects:

[0061] This invention addresses the problems of uneven stress on the front and back, left and right sides of the garment caused by the randomness of existing pleating methods, as well as issues such as skewing, stacking, twisting, and side seam slippage. At the same time, the distribution, direction, and amount of pleats are precisely designed to achieve a uniform and orderly pleated hem, improving the overall aesthetics of the garment and avoiding a messy or cheap look. Attached Figure Description

[0062] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention or the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings described below are only some embodiments of the present invention. For those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.

[0063] Figure 1 A flowchart of the wrinkling method provided by the present invention.

[0064] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the basic front garment pattern and the basic back garment pattern in Embodiment 1 of the present invention.

[0065] Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the gathered front garment piece pattern and the gathered back garment piece pattern in Embodiment 1 of the present invention.

[0066] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of the basic front garment pattern and the basic back garment pattern in Embodiment 2 of the present invention.

[0067] Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of the gathered front garment piece pattern and the gathered back garment piece pattern in Embodiment 2 of the present invention.

[0068] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram of the basic front garment pattern and the basic back garment pattern in Embodiment 3 of the present invention.

[0069] Figure 7 This is a schematic diagram of the gathered front garment piece pattern and the gathered back garment piece pattern in Embodiment 3 of the present invention.

[0070] In the image: 1. Basic front bodice pattern; 2. Basic back bodice pattern; 3. Gathered hem; 4. Gathered front bodice pattern; 5. Gathered back bodice pattern. Detailed Implementation

[0071] The invention will be more readily understood by referring to the following detailed description of preferred embodiments and included examples. Unless otherwise specified, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains. In case of conflict, the definitions in this specification shall prevail.

[0072] This invention provides a method for preparing a pleated garment pattern and a garment pattern using this method, which solves the problem that existing technologies cannot make appropriate adjustments to the basic garment pattern due to the addition of fabric, resulting in uneven stress on the front and back and left and right sides of the garment, which easily leads to skewing, stacking, twisting, side seams shifting forward or backward, and the overall garment appearing messy.

[0073] The technical concept of this invention lies in the ability to determine the hem length and allowance based on the basic garment pattern through precise calculations, so as to obtain a gathered garment pattern. This allows the distribution, direction, and amount of pleats in the resulting gathered garment to be more orderly, resulting in a uniform and orderly gathered hem and improving the overall aesthetics of the garment.

[0074] Specifically, such as Figure 1 As shown, a method for preparing a pleated garment pattern is provided, comprising:

[0075] It provides a basic garment pattern and a pre-set hem 3 with a pre-set length and a pre-set gathering ratio. The length range of the pre-set hem 3 can be determined according to the body's hip circumference and elasticity requirements. For details, please refer to the male hip circumference reference range in the GB / T1335.1-2008 national standard size chart. For foreign clothing, you can refer to the male hip circumference reference range in international sizes; or you can refer to the standard range of different brands of clothing. The gathering ratio can be set according to actual needs.

[0076] Based on length one and ruching ratio one, the hem length two of the ruched garment pattern is obtained, wherein the preset length one of the ruched hem is the same as the hem length three of the basic garment pattern.

[0077] Based on length 1, hem length 2, and the basic garment pattern, the following are processed to obtain the hem length 1, hem position 1, and hem position 2 of the garment pattern 4 before gathering, and the hem length 2, hem position 3, and hem position 4 of the garment pattern 5 after gathering.

[0078] Based on the hem length 1, hem position 1, and hem position 2, determine the front gathered garment pattern 4; based on the hem length 2, hem position 3, and hem position 4, determine the back gathered garment pattern 5.

[0079] The above-mentioned technical solution fundamentally replaces the arbitrary operation that relies on human experience through a systematic and calculable pattern processing method. This allows even less experienced operators to ensure the uniformity, controllability, and repeatability of the final garment's pleating. It effectively solves the problems caused by the randomness of existing pleating methods, such as uneven force on the front and back, left and right sides of the garment, as well as problems like skewing, stacking, twisting, and side seam slippage.

[0080] In a further technical solution, based on length one and ruching ratio one, the hem length two of the ruched garment pattern is obtained through the following method:

[0081] Hem length 2 = Length 1 * Pleating ratio 1.

[0082] By using the gathering ratio, the length of the gathered hem 3 can be quantified into the specific length of the gathered garment pattern's hem, thus laying the foundation for accurate and scientific allocation of allowances in the future, ensuring subsequent operability and precision.

[0083] In a further technical solution, based on length one, hem length two, and the basic garment pattern, the hem length one and hem length two of the pre-gathering garment pattern 4 are processed to obtain the following:

[0084] Obtain the total allowance length of the gathered garment pattern; further, the total allowance length is calculated using the following formula:

[0085] C = LA, where C is the total allowance length 1, L is the hem length 2 of the gathered garment pattern, and A is the length 1 of the gathered hem 3. By using the hem length 2 and the length 1 of the gathered hem 3, the total allowance length, i.e., the total amount of fabric to be added to the pattern, can be quantitatively calculated, avoiding the problem of arbitrariness in traditional methods where the allowance is too much or too little.

[0086] Then, the connection length one between the basic front bodice pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 is preset. Based on the connection length one, the connection length two between the basic back bodice pattern 2 and the gathered hem 3 is obtained, which can be calculated using the following formula:

[0087]

[0088] Where Y is connection length two, X is connection length one, and A is the length one of the gathered hem three. A precise calculation formula links the front and back garment pieces, ensuring the structural rationality and accuracy of subsequent allowance distribution calculations.

[0089] Based on connection length one, connection length two, and total release length one, the lower placement release length one and lower placement release length two are obtained. The lower placement release length one is calculated using the following formula:

[0090]

[0091] Where a is the lower placement length 1, Y is the connection length 2, X is the connection length 1, and C is the total placement length 1.

[0092] Precise calculations allow for accurate allowances on the basic front bodice pattern 1. The allowance distributed across the front bodice is proportional to the length of its hem, thus ensuring a uniform distribution of pleats in the front bodice area and avoiding excessive or insufficient pleats in certain areas.

[0093] The length of the lower part is calculated using the following formula:

[0094]

[0095] Where b is the lower placement length 2, Y is the connection length 2, X is the connection length 1, and C is the total placement length 1.

[0096] Precise calculations allow for accurate allowances on the basic back bodice pattern 2. The allowance distributed on the back bodice is proportional to the length of its hem, thus ensuring a uniform distribution of pleats in the back bodice area, especially near the shoulder blades, resulting in a balanced and aesthetically pleasing overall pleat effect.

[0097] In summary, by increasing the amount of fabric, i.e., the total allowance, it can be reasonably distributed according to the original structure of the front and back pieces of the garment, so as to ensure that the garment is evenly stressed front and back and to avoid the side seams shifting forward or backward.

[0098] In a further technical solution, based on length one, hem length two, and the basic garment pattern, the hem allowance position one and hem allowance position two of the pre-gathering garment pattern 4 are obtained by processing the following:

[0099] The first connection point is based on the edge of the gathered hem 3 mapped onto the front bust line. This first connection point can be determined by the connection point between the edge of the gathered hem 3 and the basic front garment pattern 1, and then by the intersection of the vertical extension line of this connection point and the front bust line.

[0100] Divide the first connection point into three equal parts from the end of the front bust line near the armhole to obtain the second and third connection points. The second connection point is point c, and the third connection point is point d.

[0101] Map the second and third connection points to the hem edge of the basic front garment pattern 1 to obtain the fourth and fifth connection points, where the fourth connection point is c' and the fifth connection point is d'.

[0102] Connect the second connection point and the fourth connection point respectively, and connect the third connection point and the fifth connection point to form the first connection line and the second connection line, namely cc' and dd';

[0103] Extend the first connecting line and the second connecting line towards the chest height line respectively to obtain the sixth connecting point and the seventh connecting point. The sixth connecting point and the seventh connecting point are c” and d” respectively.

[0104] Connect the fourth connection point and the sixth connection point, i.e., c'c", to obtain the first position of the lower placement quantity, and connect the fifth connection point and the seventh connection point, i.e., d'd", to determine the second position of the lower placement quantity.

[0105] This step involves the specific execution of adding allowances to the basic front garment pattern 1. By using an operational and structurally optimized method, the calculated abstract allowance value is precisely assigned to specific positions on the basic front garment pattern 1, rather than arbitrarily adding fabric. By selecting points connecting the bust line and the hemline to their equal division points and extending them to the bust point, the direction of the allowance (i.e., subsequent pleats) is ensured to follow the curvature of the human chest. This allows the final pleats to naturally spread downwards from the bust point, evenly distributed and orderly, completely avoiding the messy and cheap-looking pleats of traditional methods. Simultaneously, the allowance is evenly distributed in two symmetrical positions, ensuring that the center of force and visual center of the garment remains on the central axis after the allowance is added, maintaining the balance of the pattern and thus guaranteeing the overall aesthetic appeal of the finished garment, preventing skewing or distortion due to uneven allowance.

[0106] In a further technical solution, based on length one, hem length two, and the basic garment pattern, the hem allowance position three and hem allowance position four of the gathered garment pattern 5 are obtained, including:

[0107] Based on the edge mapping of the gathered hem 3 to the eighth connection point of the back bust line, the determination of the position of the eighth connection point is similar to the determination of the position of the first connection point, and will not be repeated here;

[0108] Divide the line from the eighth connection point to the end of the front bust line near the armhole into three equal parts to obtain the ninth and tenth connection points, namely e and f;

[0109] Map the ninth and tenth connection points to the hem edge of the basic back garment pattern 2 to obtain the eleventh and twelfth connection points, namely e' and f'.

[0110] Connect the ninth and eleventh connection points respectively, and connect the tenth and twelfth connection points to form the third and fourth connection lines, namely ee' and ff';

[0111] Extend the third and fourth connecting lines towards the scapular line to obtain the thirteenth and fourteenth connecting points, namely e” and f”;

[0112] Connect the eleventh connection point and the thirteenth connection point, i.e., e'e", to determine the position of the lower placement quantity three, and connect the twelfth connection point and the fourteenth connection point, i.e., f'f", to determine the position of the lower placement quantity four.

[0113] This technical solution, by directing the fabric allowance of the basic back piece towards the back shoulder line, allows the increased fabric volume to better accommodate shoulder blade movement, and the resulting folds naturally gather in the middle of the back, conforming to human body shape and movement patterns, thus improving wearing comfort. Simultaneously, the symmetrical distribution of allowance in the basic back piece pattern 2 ensures consistent expansion on both sides of the back piece. When sewn to the front piece, the side seams of the entire garment will not be pulled forward or backward due to the different shrinkage rates of the front and back pieces, effectively solving the common defect of side seam slippage in existing technologies.

[0114] Combination Figures 2-3 Furthermore, the pattern of the gathered front garment piece is determined based on the hem length and hem position, including...

[0115] Based on the basic front garment pattern, take the sixth connection point c” as the origin, cut along the lower hem position and rotate at the fourth connection point c’ to increase the length of the lower hem by half; take the seventh connection point d” as the origin, cut along the lower hem position by two and rotate at the fifth connection point d’ to increase the length of the lower hem by half; to determine the gathered front garment pattern.

[0116] Based on the hem length 2 and hem position 2, the pattern of the gathered garment piece is determined as follows:

[0117] Based on the basic back garment pattern, take the thirteenth connection point e” as the origin, divide it into three parts along the hemline position, and rotate at the eleventh connection point e’ to increase the hemline length by half; take the fourteenth connection point f” as the origin, divide it into four parts along the hemline position, and rotate at the twelfth connection point f’ to increase the hemline length by half; thus determining the gathered back garment pattern.

[0118] Combination Figures 2-3 Example 1 of the fully gathered basic front garment pattern 1 and basic back garment pattern 2 provided in this application:

[0119] In this embodiment, the length of the gathered hem 3, i.e., the preset length A, is 96cm, and the gathering ratio, i.e., the gathering ratio I, ranges from 1.1 to 1.3 times. For example, the gathering ratio B is 1.15 times. According to the formula that the hem length of the gathered garment pattern = the length of the gathered hem 3 × the gathering ratio, the hem length II L of the gathered garment pattern = A × B = 96 × 1.15 = 110.4cm.

[0120] In order to make the garment and the gathered hem 3 more even after sewing, in the actual production of the garment in this embodiment, according to the hem length L of the gathered garment pattern and the length A of the gathered hem 3, the total allowance length C of the gathered garment pattern can be determined as: C = A = 110.4 - 96 = 14.4 cm.

[0121] Let X be the hem length at the point where the basic front bodice pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 are joined, i.e., connection length one; and let X be the hem length at the point where the basic back bodice pattern 2 and the gathered hem 3 are joined, i.e., connection length two.

[0122] The ratio of the hem length at the point where the gathered front bodice pattern 4 and the gathered hem 3 are to be joined (hem length 1a) to the hem length at the point where the gathered back bodice pattern 5 and the gathered hem 3 are to be joined (hem length 2b) is:

[0123] The hem length at the point where the gathered front garment piece 4 and the gathered hem 3 are to be joined is... The length of the hem at the point where the gathered hem piece 5 and the gathered hem 3 are to be joined.

[0124] in and It is derived through the following formula:

[0125]

[0126] 7.2X - aX = aY;

[0127] aX + aY = 7.2X;

[0128]

[0129] The length 7.2 is half of the total hem allowance length C.

[0130] To further improve uniformity, for example, when the hem length at the point where the basic front garment pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 are to be connected is the same as the hem length at the point where the basic back garment pattern 2 and the gathered hem 3 are to be connected (i.e., X = Y), then

[0131] The hemline positions at the connection points between the gathered front bodice pattern 4 and the gathered hem 3 are determined, namely, hemline position one and hemline position two. Since both the gathered front bodice pattern 4 and the gathered back bodice pattern 5 need to ensure a more even fit when sewn to the gathered hem 3, the front bust line of the basic front bodice pattern 1 is divided into three equal parts by point o, obtaining division points c and d. The hemline of the basic front bodice pattern 1 is also divided into three equal parts, obtaining division points c' and d'. These are then connected sequentially to cc' and dd'. c'c is extended to the bust height line c'', obtaining hemline position one (c'c') passing through c'. d'd is extended to the bust height line d'', obtaining hemline position two (d'd') passing through d'. Hemline position one and hemline position two are then unfolded, each with an increase of a / 2, resulting in the gathered front bodice pattern 4. For example, in this embodiment, the increase is made along hemline position one of the basic front bodice pattern 1. Add allowance at position two along the bottom hem of the basic front garment pattern 1.

[0132] Determine the hem allowance positions at the connection points between the gathered back bodice pattern 5 and the gathered hem 3, namely, hem allowance position three and hem allowance position four. Since both the gathered front bodice pattern 4 and the gathered back bodice pattern 5 need to ensure a more even fit when sewn to the gathered hem 3, the back bust line in the basic back bodice pattern 2 is divided into three equal parts, obtaining division points e and f. The hem in the basic back bodice pattern 2 is then divided into three equal parts, obtaining division points e' and f'. These are then connected sequentially to ee' and ff'. ee' is extended to the shoulder blade line e'', obtaining hem allowance position three e'e''. f'f'' is extended to the shoulder blade line f'', obtaining hem allowance position four f'f'''. Hem allowance positions three and four are then unfolded and allowances are added accordingly. Obtain the gathered back garment pattern 5. For example, in this embodiment, the allowance is increased three times along the hemline of the basic back garment pattern 2. Add four allowances along the hem of the basic back garment pattern 2.

[0133] like Figures 4-5 The second embodiment of the basic front garment pattern 1 with partial gathering and basic back garment pattern 2 with full gathering provided in this application should be noted as follows: in this embodiment, the structural names summarized above are no longer described accordingly, and they are consistent with the previous embodiment.

[0134] In this embodiment, as required, the length A of the gathered hem 3 is 98cm, and the gathering ratio ranges from 1.1 to 1.3 times. In this embodiment, the gathering ratio B is 1.18 times. According to the formula that the hem length of the gathered garment pattern = the length of the gathered hem 3 × the gathering ratio, the hem length L of the gathered garment pattern is L = A × B = 98 × 1.18 = 115.64cm.

[0135] In order to make the garment and the gathered hem 3 more even after being sewn together, in the actual production of the garment in this embodiment, the total allowance length C of the gathered garment pattern can be determined as follows: C = LA = 115.64 - 98 = 17.64 cm, based on the hem length L of the gathered garment pattern and the length A of the gathered hem 3.

[0136] Let X be the hem length at the point where the basic front bodice pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 are joined, and Y be the hem length at the point where the basic back bodice pattern 2 and the gathered hem 3 are joined. The ratio of the hem length a at the point where the gathered front bodice pattern 4 and the gathered hem 3 are joined to the hem length b at the point where the gathered back bodice pattern 5 and the gathered hem 3 are joined is: The hem length at the point where the gathered front garment piece 4 and the gathered hem 3 are to be joined is... The length of the hem at the point where the gathered hem piece 5 and the gathered hem 3 are to be joined.

[0137] To further improve uniformity, for example, when the hem length of the basic front garment pattern 1 is the same as the hem length of the basic back garment pattern 2, then the hem length Y = 98 / 4 = 24.5cm at the point where the basic back garment pattern 2 and the gathered hem 3 are to be connected. In this embodiment, X is set to 10cm, so a≈2.56cm and b≈6.26cm.

[0138] Determine the hem allowance position at the junction of the gathered front garment piece 4 and the gathered hem 3:

[0139] Since both the gathered front bodice pattern 4 and the gathered back bodice pattern 5 need to ensure a more even fit when sewn to the gathered hem 3, the vertical line connecting the basic front bodice pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 is extended to point g on the front bust line. The front bust line segment gg' from point g to the armhole is divided into three equal parts, obtaining points c and d. The hem of the basic front bodice pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 is then divided into three equal parts, obtaining points c' and d'. These are then connected sequentially to cc' and dd'. C'c is extended to the bust height line c'', obtaining the first hem allowance position c'c'. D'd is extended to the armhole line d'', obtaining the second hem allowance position d'd''. The first and second hem allowance positions are then unfolded and allowances are increased accordingly. Obtain the gathered front garment pattern 4. Exemplarily, in this embodiment, the allowance is increased along the hemline of the basic front garment pattern 1. Add allowance at position two along the bottom hem of the basic front garment pattern 1.

[0140] After determining the hem allowance position at the junction of the gathered bodice pattern 5 and the gathered hem 3, the following steps are required:

[0141] Since both the gathered front bodice pattern 4 and the gathered back bodice pattern 5 need to ensure a more even fit when sewn to the gathered hem 3, the back bust line in the basic back bodice pattern 2 is divided into three equal parts, obtaining points e and f. Similarly, the hem in the basic back bodice pattern 2 is divided into three equal parts, obtaining points e' and f'. These are then connected sequentially to ee' and ff'. e'e is extended to the shoulder blade line e'', obtaining the third hem allowance position e'e''. f'f'' is extended to the shoulder blade line f'', obtaining the fourth hem allowance position f'f''. Hem allowance positions three and four are then unfolded and allowances are increased accordingly. Obtain the gathered back garment pattern 5. For example, in this embodiment, the allowance is increased three times along the hemline of the basic back garment pattern 2. Add four allowances along the hem of the basic back garment pattern 2.

[0142] like Figures 6-7 As shown, in Embodiment 3, both the basic front garment pattern 1 and the basic back garment pattern 2 provided in this application are partially gathered:

[0143] In this embodiment, for example, the length A of the gathered hem 3 is 104cm, and the gathering ratio ranges from 1.1 to 1.3 times. In this embodiment, for example, the gathering ratio B is 1.2 times. According to the formula that the hem length of the gathered garment pattern = the length of the gathered hem 3 × the gathering ratio, the hem length L of the gathered garment pattern is L = A × B = 104 × 1.2 = 124.8cm.

[0144] To ensure a more even fit between the garment and the gathered hem 3, in this embodiment, during actual garment production, based on the hem length L of the gathered garment pattern and the length A of the gathered hem 3, the total allowance length C of the gathered garment pattern can be determined as: C = LA = 124.8 - 104 = 20.8 cm. Let the hem length at the point where the basic front garment pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 are joined be X, and the hem length at the point where the basic back garment pattern 2 and the gathered hem 3 are joined be Y. The ratio of the allowance length a at the point where the gathered front garment pattern 4 and the gathered hem 3 are joined to the allowance length b at the point where the gathered back garment pattern 5 and the gathered hem 3 are joined is: The hem length at the point where the gathered front garment piece 4 and the gathered hem 3 are to be joined is...

[0145] The length of the hem at the point where the gathered hem piece 5 and the gathered hem 3 are to be joined.

[0146] To further improve uniformity, for example, when the hem length at the point where the basic front garment pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 are to be connected is the same as the hem length at the point where the basic back garment pattern 2 and the gathered hem 3 are to be connected (i.e., X = Y), then

[0147] Determine the hem allowance position at the junction of the gathered front garment piece 4 and the gathered hem 3:

[0148] Since both the gathered front bodice pattern 4 and the gathered back bodice pattern 5 need to ensure a more even fit when sewn to the gathered hem 3, the vertical line connecting the basic front bodice pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 is extended to point g on the front bust line. The front bust line segment gg' from point g to the armhole is divided into three equal parts, obtaining points c and d. The hem of the basic front bodice pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 is then divided into three equal parts, obtaining points c' and d'. These are then connected sequentially to cc' and dd'. C'c is extended to the bust height line c'', obtaining the first hem allowance position c'c'. D'd is extended to the armhole line d'', obtaining the second hem allowance position d'd''. The first and second hem allowance positions are then unfolded and allowances are increased accordingly. Obtain the gathered front garment pattern 4. Exemplarily, in this embodiment, the allowance is increased along the hemline of the basic front garment pattern 1. Add allowance at position two along the bottom hem of the basic front garment pattern 1.

[0149] Determine the hem allowance position at the point where the gathered back bodice pattern 5 and gathered hem 3 are to be joined: Since both the gathered front bodice pattern 4 and the gathered back bodice pattern 5 need to ensure a more even fit when sewn to the gathered hem 3, extend the vertical line connecting the basic back bodice pattern 2 and the gathered hem 3 to point h on the back bust line. Divide the back bust line segment hh' from point h to the armhole into three equal parts, obtaining points e and f. Divide the hem at the point where the basic front bodice pattern 1 and the gathered hem 3 are to be joined into three equal parts, obtaining points e' and f'. Connect ee' and ff' in sequence. Extend e'e to the armhole line e'' to obtain the hem allowance position three e'e''. Extend f'f to the shoulder blade line f'' to obtain the hem allowance position four f'f'''. Unfold hem allowance positions three and four and increase the allowance accordingly. Obtain the gathered back garment pattern 5. For example, in this embodiment, the allowance is increased three times along the hemline of the basic back garment pattern 2. Add four allowances along the hem of the basic front garment pattern 1.

[0150] like Figure 2-7The present invention also provides a pleated garment pattern, which includes a pleated hem 3, a pleated front garment pattern 4 and a pleated back garment pattern 5 prepared by a pleating method.

[0151] Among them, the gathered front piece pattern 4 and the gathered back piece pattern 5 are half of the gathered front piece and the gathered back piece of the finished gathered garment.

[0152] It should be noted that basic garment pattern designs are divided into basic front garment pattern 1 and basic back garment pattern 2, while gathered garment pattern designs are divided into gathered front garment pattern 4 and gathered back garment pattern 5. Gathered front garment pattern 4 and gathered back garment pattern 5 are two specific terms, corresponding to basic front garment pattern 1 and basic back garment pattern 2. Basic front garment pattern 1 is half of the actual front piece of the garment, and basic back garment pattern 2 is half of the actual back piece of the garment. That is, in actual garment production, at least four garment pieces are required, namely two front garment pieces and two back garment pieces, excluding garments with side panels or other garment pieces. Similarly, gathered front garment pattern 4 is half of the actual gathered front piece of the garment, and gathered back garment pattern 5 is half of the actual gathered back piece of the garment. In actual garment production, at least four gathered garment pieces are required, namely two gathered front garment pieces and two gathered back garment pieces.

[0153] Finally, it should be noted that the above are merely preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, those skilled in the art can still modify the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments or make equivalent substitutions for some of the technical features. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc., made within the spirit and principles of the present invention should be included within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method of making a drapable garment pattern, characterized by, The method comprises the following steps: providing a basic garment pattern and a preset length one and a preset shrinkage ratio one of a shrinkage hemline; based on the length one and the shrinkage ratio one, processing to obtain a hemline length two of a shrinkage garment pattern, wherein the preset shrinkage hemline length one is the same as a hemline length three of the basic garment pattern; based on the length one, the hemline length two and the basic garment pattern, processing to obtain a hemline placement length one, a hemline placement position one, a hemline placement position two of the pre-shrinkage garment pattern and a hemline placement length two, a hemline placement position three, a hemline placement position four of the post-shrinkage garment pattern; based on the hemline placement length one and the hemline placement position one and the hemline placement position two, determining the pre-shrinkage garment pattern, and based on the hemline placement length two and the hemline placement position three and the hemline placement position four, determining the post-shrinkage garment pattern.

2. The production method according to claim 1, characterized by, The processing to obtain the hemline length two of the shrinkage garment pattern based on the length one and the shrinkage ratio one is obtained by the following formula: The hemline length two = the length one * the shrinkage ratio one.

3. The preparation method according to claim 2, characterized in that, The processing to obtain the hemline placement length one and the hemline placement length two of the pre-shrinkage garment pattern based on the length one, the hemline length two and the basic garment pattern comprises: obtaining a total placement length one of the shrinkage garment pattern; presetting a connection length one of the basic pre-garment pattern and the shrinkage hemline, and based on the connection length one, processing to obtain a connection length two of the basic post-garment pattern and the shrinkage hemline; based on the connection length one, the connection length two and the total placement length one, processing to obtain the hemline placement length one and the hemline placement length two.

4. The production method according to claim 3, characterized by, The total placement length one of the shrinkage garment pattern is obtained by the following calculation formula: C = L - A; wherein C is the total placement length one; L is the hemline length two of the shrinkage garment pattern; A is the length one of the shrinkage hemline.

5. The preparation method according to claim 3, characterized in that, The connection length one of the basic pre-garment pattern and the shrinkage hemline, based on the connection length one, processing to obtain the connection length two of the basic post-garment pattern and the shrinkage hemline comprises: wherein Y is the connection length two; X is the connection length one; A is the length one of the shrinkage hemline.

6. The preparation method according to claim 3, characterized in that, The processing to obtain the hemline placement length one based on the connection length one, the connection length two and the total placement length one comprises: wherein a is the hemline placement length one; Y is the connection length two; X is the connection length one; C is the total placement length one.

7. The preparation method according to claim 3, characterized in that, The processing to obtain the hemline placement length two based on the connection length one, the connection length two and the total placement length one comprises: wherein b is the hemline placement length two; Y is the connection length two; X is the connection length one; C is the total placement length one.

8. The preparation method according to claim 3, characterized in that, The processing to obtain the hemline placement position one and the hemline placement position two of the pre-shrinkage garment pattern based on the length one, the hemline length two and the basic garment pattern comprises: mapping the edge of the shrinkage hemline to a first connection point of the front chest circumference line; The first connecting point is trisected to the front chest line near the end of the sleeve cap to obtain a second connecting point and a third connecting point; The second connecting point and the third connecting point are mapped to the hem edge of the basic front pattern to obtain a fourth connecting point and a fifth connecting point; The second connecting point and the fourth connecting point are connected, and the third connecting point and the fifth connecting point are connected to form a first connecting line and a second connecting line; The first connecting line and the second connecting line are respectively extended to the bust point line to obtain a sixth connecting point and a seventh connecting point; The fourth connecting point and the sixth connecting point are connected to obtain a first dart position; The fifth connecting point and the seventh connecting point are connected to determine a second dart position; The darted front pattern and the darted back pattern obtained by the method of any one of claims 1 to 9 are used to prepare the darted garment pattern. The darted garment pattern includes a darted hem pattern and the darted front pattern and the darted back pattern prepared by the method of any one of claims 1 to 9. The first dart position and the second dart position are used to determine the darted front pattern based on the length one, the darted hem length two, and the basic pattern, and the darted back pattern based on the darted hem edge mapped to the back chest line. The eighth connecting point is trisected to the front chest line near the end of the sleeve cap to obtain a ninth connecting point and a tenth connecting point; The ninth connecting point and the tenth connecting point are mapped to the hem edge of the basic back pattern to obtain an eleventh connecting point and a twelfth connecting point; The ninth connecting point and the eleventh connecting point are connected, and the tenth connecting point and the twelfth connecting point are connected to form a third connecting line and a fourth connecting line; The third connecting line and the fourth connecting line are respectively extended to the scapula line to obtain a thirteenth connecting point and a fourteenth connecting point; The eleventh connecting point and the thirteenth connecting point are connected to obtain a third dart position; 9. The production method according to claim 8, characterized by, The twelfth connecting point and the fourteenth connecting point are connected to obtain a fourth dart position. The first dart position and the second dart position are used to determine the darted front pattern based on the length one, the darted hem length two, and the basic pattern, and the darted back pattern based on the darted hem edge mapped to the back chest line. The darted front pattern is determined by taking the sixth connecting point as the origin, cutting along the first dart position, and rotating half of the darted hem length one at the fourth connecting point on the basic front pattern; and the darted back pattern is determined by taking the thirteenth connecting point as the origin, cutting along the third dart position, and rotating half of the darted hem length two at the eleventh connecting point on the basic back pattern.

10. A draping garment pattern, characterized by, The darted garment pattern includes a darted hem pattern and the darted front pattern and the darted back pattern prepared by the method of any one of claims 1 to 9. The darted front pattern and the darted back pattern are half of the darted front pattern and the darted back pattern of the finished darted garment.

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