Personal cleansing composition

By using a combination of triglyceride oil and caprylic acid with cationic deposition polymers in hair products to form microemulsions, stability and rheological issues in silicone-free products are resolved, achieving both wet and dry lubrication conditioning effects and reducing hair curl.

CN121335689APending Publication Date: 2026-01-13UNILEVER IP HLDG BV
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202480040185.0
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-06-29
Filing Date
2024-06-11
Publication Date
2026-01-13

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

In silicone-free hair products, existing technologies struggle to effectively deliver the benefits of wet and dry conditioning, and oils present stability and rheological issues in matrices containing sulfated anionic surfactants.

Method used

A cleaning composition in the form of a microemulsion is formed by combining triglyceride oil and caprylic acid with a cationic deposition polymer. The composition contains a sulfated anionic surfactant, an amphoteric co-surfactant, and a cationic polysaccharide deposition polymer. The ratio of oil to caprylic acid is 5:1 to 15:1. The composition is silicone-free.

Benefits of technology

It achieves stable microemulsions without silicone, with excellent viscosity and foaming properties, reduced hair curl, and improved wet and dry lubrication.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

A silicone-free aqueous cleaning composition comprising: i) from 3% to 15% by weight of a sulfated anionic surfactant; ii) from 0.5% to 5% by weight of a zwitterionic surfactant; iii) from 0.1% to 1% by weight of a triglyceride oil comprising at least 30% of aliphatic chains having a carbon-carbon chain length of 12; the present invention relates to a hair care composition comprising, by weight, a triglyceride oil, iv) from 0.01% to 0.1% of caprylic acid, and v) from 0.1% to 2% of a cationic polysaccharide deposition polymer wherein the ratio of triglyceride oil to caprylic acid is from 5: 1 to 15: 1 wherein the composition is in the form of a microemulsion, and wherein the composition is silicone-free providing curl reducing and conditioning benefits to hair.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of personal care cleaning products that provide conditioning benefits and are silicone-free. Background Technology

[0002] Consumers expect conditioning benefits for their hair, such as smooth, easy-to-manage, and soft hair treatments, like shampoos.

[0003] Conditioning benefits are what consumers expect and perceive during and after the washing process. Therefore, conditioning is evaluated when hair is wet and when hair is dry. Thus, it is desirable for shampoo-based hair care products (such as shampoos) to provide multiple benefits at different stages of use. Wet conditioning and dry conditioning are different benefits and are often delivered in different ways.

[0004] Silicones are primarily used to provide conditioning benefits in the post-drying stage. In silicone-free formulations, alternative methods are needed to provide these benefits.

[0005] Oils are used as a silicone substitute in hair products containing sulfate-free anionic surfactants. However, the incorporation of oils into matrices containing sulfated anionic surfactants presents stability issues, with the oil separating over time, and rheological problems, leading to a decrease in viscosity. Sulfated surfactants allow for ease of formulation and provide good foaming properties and viscosity in cleaning compositions.

[0006] WO 21 / 175499 (Unilever) discloses a personal cleansing composition for reducing dandruff, comprising: i) a cleansing surfactant, including an amphoteric surfactant and an anionic surfactant, having a degree of ethoxylation of less than 3 when ethoxylated, wherein the ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is less than 5:1; ii) an oil phase comprising at least one triglyceride oil; iii) an aliphatic fatty acid or a salt thereof having a carbon chain length of C4 to C10; and iv) a pyrrolidone compound; wherein the composition has a pH of 6 or lower at 20°C, and the weight ratio of the aliphatic fatty acid to the triglyceride oil is 1:2 to 5:1.

[0007] Despite the existence of existing technologies, there is still a need to improve conditioning in the absence of organosilicon in compositions containing sulfated surfactants.

[0008] We have now surprisingly discovered that reduced curl, as well as wet and dry lubrication, can be delivered from a silicone-free cleaning composition containing a sulfated anionic surfactant, comprising a combination of triglyceride oil and octanoic acid with a cationic deposition polymer. This composition is in the form of a microemulsion and is stable with excellent viscosity and foaming properties. Summary of the Invention

[0009] In a first aspect, an aqueous cleaning composition is provided, comprising: i) 3% to 15% by weight of sulfated anionic surfactants; ii) 0.5% to 5% by weight of amphoteric co-surfactant; iii) 0.1% to 1% by weight of triglyceride oil, said triglyceride oil comprising at least 30% of fatty chains with a carbon-carbon chain length of 12; iv) 0.01% to 0.1% by weight of octanoic acid; and v) 0.1% to 2% by weight of cationic polysaccharide deposition polymer; The ratio of oil to caprylic acid is 5:1 to 15:1; The composition is in the form of a microemulsion; and The composition does not contain silicone.

[0010] The second aspect provides a method for treating hair with the composition of the first aspect, comprising the step of applying the composition to the hair.

[0011] The third aspect provides the use of the composition of the first aspect for conditioning hair. Preferably, conditioning is provided by reducing friction on dry or wet hair, preferably wet hair.

[0012] The composition of the first aspect is also provided for use in reducing hair curl compared to similar compositions that do not contain caprylic acid and triglyceride oil. Detailed Implementation

[0013] Unless explicitly stated in the examples or otherwise, all figures in the specification indicating the amount of material or reaction conditions, the physical properties of the material and / or its use may optionally be understood to be modified by the word “about”.

[0014] Unless otherwise stated, all quantities are by weight of the final personal care composition.

[0015] It should be noted that when specifying any range of values, any particular upper limit value can be associated with any particular lower limit value.

[0016] Sulfated anionic surfactants The compositions of the present invention comprise a sulfated anionic surfactant, preferably selected from sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), sodium alkyl ether sulfate (SPES), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the anionic surfactant has an average degree of ethoxylation of 1EO to 3EO, more preferably 1EO to 2EO.

[0017] In typical compositions of the present invention, the content of anionic surfactant typically ranges from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 14% by weight, and most preferably from 8% to 13% by weight (based on the total weight of the composition and 100% active substance by weight).

[0018] zwitterionic cosurfactants The compositions of the present invention contain a zwitterionic cosurfactant, preferably selected from betaine, cocoamide monoethanolamide (CMEA) and mixtures thereof.

[0019] The content of the zwitterionic co-surfactant is 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 1% to 4% by weight, more preferably 1.5% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition and by weight based on 100% active ingredient level.

[0020] The betaine suitable for use in this invention can be represented by the following general formula: R 10 [C(O)NH-(CH2) y ] z -N + (R 11 (R) 12 CH2CO2 - (IV) Where R 10 It is C6 to C30, more particularly C6 to C24 alkyl, z is 0 or 1, R 11 and R 12 Independently, it is an alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, or carboxyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and y is 2 or 3; and its salts. In one embodiment, at least half of the groups R 10 It is a C8 to C18 alkyl group. In another embodiment, at least half of the groups R 10 It is a C10 to C14 alkyl group. R 10 It can be saturated or unsaturated. In one implementation, R 10 Derived from coconut oil or palm kernel oil. In one embodiment, R 11 and R 12 It is a methyl group.

[0021] Formula (IV) betaines include simple betaines: R 10 -N + (R 11 (R) 12 )-CH2CO2 - (IVa) Where R 10 R 11 and R 12As mentioned above, and amide betaine: R 10 C(O)NH-(CH2) y -N + (R 11 (R) 12 CH2CO3 - (IVb) Where R 10 R 11 R 12 And y as described above.

[0022] Preferred betaines are oleo-betaine, octamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, isostearamidopropyl betaine, and cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the zwitterionic co-surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0023] Most preferably, the co-surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), cocamidopropyl alcohol amide (CMEA), and mixtures thereof.

[0024] The weight ratio of anionic surfactant (i) to zwitterionic cosurfactant (ii) is preferably 3:1 to 10:1, more preferably 3.5:1 to 10:1, even more preferably 5:1 to 10:1, and most preferably 6:1 to 9:1.

[0025] Triglyceride oil The compositions of the present invention comprise an oil, which is a triglyceride oil comprising at least 30% by weight, preferably 30% to 100% by weight, more preferably 40% to 75% by weight, and most preferably 40% to 60% by weight of a fatty chain with a carbon-carbon chain length of 12.

[0026] The triglyceride oil is preferably selected from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, algae oil and mixtures thereof, with coconut oil being the most preferred.

[0027] Based on the total weight of the composition, the oil is present in an amount of 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.15% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 0.4% by weight.

[0028] bitter The compositions of the present invention contain octanoic acid.

[0029] Octanoic acid is present in an amount of 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.025% to 0.9% by weight.

[0030] The weight ratio of triglyceride oil to caprylic acid is 5:1 to 15:1, preferably 6:1 to 12:1.

[0031] Cationic polysaccharide deposition polymer The compositions of the present invention comprise cationic polysaccharide deposited polymers.

[0032] Based on the total weight of the composition, the cationic polysaccharide deposition polymer is present in an amount of 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.15% to 1.5% by weight, and most preferably 0.2% to 1.0% by weight.

[0033] The cationic polysaccharide deposition polymer is preferably selected from cationic dextran, cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic polygalactomannan.

[0034] Preferred cationic deposition polymers are selected from cationic polygalactomannans with an average charge density of 0.2 to 2 meq / g at pH 7. Such polymers can be used to enhance the delivery of conditioning agents from the composition to the skin and / or hair surface during consumer use, thereby improving the obtained conditioning benefits. Mixtures of cationic deposition polymers may be used.

[0035] In the context of this invention, the term "charge density" refers to the ratio of the number of positive charges on a monomer unit constituting a polymer to the molecular weight of that monomer unit. The charge density multiplied by the polymer molecular weight determines the number of positively charged sites on a given polymer chain.

[0036] Polygalactomannan is a polysaccharide mainly composed of galactose and mannose units, and is commonly found in the endosperm of leguminous seeds, such as guar beans, locust beans, soapberries, and flame trees. Guar bean powder is mainly composed of galactomannan, which is essentially a linear mannan with monomeric galactose branches. The mannose units are linked by 1-4-β-glycosidic bonds, and galactose branching occurs through alternating 1-6 linkages on the mannose units. Therefore, the ratio of galactose to mannose in guar gum polymers is 1:2.

[0037] Suitable cationic polygalactomannans for use in this invention include polygalactomannans such as guar gum, and polygalactomannan derivatives such as hydroxyalkyl guar gum (e.g., hydroxyethyl guar gum or hydroxypropyl guar gum), which are cationically modified by chemical reaction with one or more derivatizing agents.

[0038] Derivatizing agents typically contain reactive functional groups, such as epoxy groups, halide groups, ester groups, anhydride groups, or olefinic unsaturated groups, and at least one cationic group, such as a cationic nitrogen group, more commonly a quaternary ammonium group. Derivatization typically introduces a lateral cationic group, usually linked by an ether bond, onto the polygalactomannan backbone, where the oxygen atom corresponds to a hydroxyl group on the reacted polygalactomannan backbone.

[0039] Preferred cationic polygalactomannans used in this invention include guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0040] The guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride used in this invention typically consists of a nonionic guar backbone functionalized with ether-linked 2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride groups, and is typically prepared by reacting guar gum with N-(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl)trimethylammonium chloride.

[0041] The cationic polygalactomannan used in this invention (preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride) typically has an average molecular weight (weight-average molecular weight (Mw) determined by size exclusion chromatography) in the range of 500,000 to 3 million g / mol, more preferably 800,000 to 2.5 million g / mol.

[0042] The cationic polygalactomannans used in this invention typically have a charge density of 0.5 to 1.8 meq / g.

[0043] Preferably, the cationic polygalactomannan is selected from guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (and mixtures thereof) with a charge density ranging from 0.5 to 1.8 meq / g.

[0044] The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined by the Kjeldahl method, as described in the Chemical Tests for Nitrogen Determination in the United States Pharmacopeia.

[0045] A preferred example of cationic polygalactomannan is guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride with a cationic charge density of 0.5 to 1.1 meq / g.

[0046] Mixtures of cationic polygalactomannans are also suitable, one having a cationic charge density of 0.5 to 1.1 meq / g and the other having a cationic charge density of 1.1 to 1.8 meq / g.

[0047] Specific examples of preferred mixtures of cationic polygalactomannan are mixtures of guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, one having a cationic charge density of 0.5 to 1.1 meq / g and the other having a cationic charge density of 1.1 to 1.8 meq / g.

[0048] The cationic polygalactomannan used in this invention is commercially available from Solvay as JAGUAR® C13S, JAGUAR® C14, and JAGUAR® C17. Esaflor 0X 14B is also available from Lamberti.

[0049] In the preferred composition according to the invention, the cationic polygalactomannan is selected from guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (and mixtures thereof) having a charge density in the range of 0.5 to 1.8 meq / g, and its content ranges from 0.15% to 0.2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Examples of preferred cationic cellulose derivatives used in this invention include poly(1,2-oxoethylenediyl)-2-hydroxy-3-trimethylammonium propyl chloride cellulose ether (INCI: polyquaternium-10).

[0051] Suitable cationic dextran polymers are described in paragraph

[0005] of WO2022 / 240665A1.

[0052] In the context of this invention, "silicone-free" means having less than 0.15% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.05% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.001% by weight, more preferably less than 0.0001% by weight, and most preferably 0% by weight of silicone based on the total composition weight.

[0053] The compositions of the present invention are preferably free of anti-dandruff agents, such as piroctone olamine.

[0054] The microemulsion contains worm-like micelles. The composition is stable and has excellent viscosity. The composition can be transparent.

[0055] The aqueous treatment composition typically contains at least 60%, preferably at least 70%, and more preferably at least 80% water (by weight based on the total weight of the composition). Preferably, the composition contains no more than 99%, more preferably no more than 98% water (by weight based on the total weight of the composition).

[0056] The composition can be prepared by mixing all ingredients (including the cationic deposited polymer) to prepare a shampoo base, followed by the addition of triglyceride oil and caprylic acid. In an optional step, the pH can be adjusted with citric acid, and the viscosity can be adjusted with sodium chloride or polypropylene glycol P400.

[0057] The implementation of the present invention will now be described through the following examples.

[0058] Example Example 1: Shampoo composition 1 according to the present invention and comparative compositions A and B Three hair shampoo formulations were prepared and used to treat hair, and then evaluated. The composition is given in Table 1.

[0059] Table 1: Composition (wt%) of Composition 1 and Comparative Compositions A and B according to the present invention.

[0060] The formulation is prepared as follows: all ingredients are mixed to prepare a shampoo base, and then coconut oil and caprylic acid are added to the composition according to the invention. In an optional step, the pH is adjusted with citric acid, and the viscosity is adjusted with sodium chloride or polypropylene glycol P400.

[0061] Example 2: Treatment of hair with compositions 1, A, and B and measurement of hair swell. The hair used was dark brown European curly hair, with each tuft weighing 2 g and measuring 10 inches in length.

[0062] Hair is treated with compositions 1, A, and B as follows: First, treat your hair with a cleansing shampoo using the following methods: Hold the hair fibers under running water for 30 seconds, apply shampoo at a dosage of 0.1 ml per 1 g of hair, and massage into the hair for 30 seconds. Remove excess foam by holding under running water for 30 seconds and repeat the shampooing stage. Rinse the hair under running water for 30 seconds.

[0063] Then treat wet hair with shampoo 1, A, or B using the following method: Apply shampoo to wet hair at a dosage of 0.1 g of shampoo per 1 g of hair and massage into the hair for 30 seconds. Remove excess foam by holding under running water for 30 seconds and repeat the shampooing process. Rinse the hair under running water for 30 seconds to remove excess water.

[0064] Four replicate hair clumps were prepared for each shampoo. After drying overnight in a humid chamber at 20°C and 50% RH, the hair clumps were photographed in a controlled humid chamber; then the clumps were combed and photographed again. Hair tumescence was analyzed using image analysis software.

[0065] Table 2 shows the amount of hair swelling before and after combing measured on hair clumps treated with shampoos 1, A and B at 20°C and 50% RH.

[0066] Table 2: Average hair swelling (mm) of hair treated with shampoos 1, A, and B at 20°C and 50% RH 2 )

[0067] Regardless of whether the hair is combed, shampoo 1 produces less hair swell than comparative shampoos A and B.

[0068] Example 3: Treatment and hair volume measurement for calculating reduced curl in untreated hair clumps. Wash four hair clumps (2 g x 10") with a clean shampoo. Dry the clumps at a high temperature (50°C) for 60 to 80 minutes. Once the clumps are completely dry, comb them several times to create extremely curly clumps. Capture images of the curly clumps using Image Analysis Volume Rig. Capture an image of each clump to obtain 3D volumetric area.

[0069] Before combing, the amount of hair swelling in each treated clump is compared to the amount in an untreated (extremely curly) clump. This allows for the calculation of curl reduction.

[0070] % Curl reduction = (( 1 Matrix washing amount - 2 (Amount processed) / Amount washed with matrix .

[0071] 1 After shampooing, use a comb to curl the hair to provide maximum volume and curl. 2 The amount of hair clusters treated after drying overnight at 20°C and 50% RH The percentage reduction in curl is for each hair cluster. The average for the four hair clusters is given in Table 3.

[0072] Table 3: Reduction of curl in hair treated with shampoos 1, A, and B

[0073] The table above shows that shampoo 1 has better curl reduction than shampoos A and B.

[0074] Example 4: Salon test using composition 1 and A A half-head expert salon test was conducted, in which the performance of Shampoo 1 and Shampoo A was compared on a standard set of attributes at multiple key stages. A panel of 36 participants, aged 16–65 years, with hair ranging from wavy to medium to coarse, was recruited. Evaluators applied the products using a standard half-head approach, recording which side assigned higher performance to the attribute, and randomized the products. Evaluation was a forced choice between the left and right sides, and data was collected via tablets on Compusense. Attributes showing significant differences are listed in Table 4.

[0075] Table 4: Significantly different attributes from the half-head salon study, where one half of the head was washed with shampoo 1 and the other half with... Shampoo A wash

[0076] “x” indicates the highest level of the attribute. Compared to Shampoo A, Shampoo 1 provides better wet / dry smoothness and offers conditioning and styling benefits. During the shampoo-rinse stage, Shampoo 1 provides a better slippery feel and easier rinsing under running water; during the wet stage, Shampoo 1 provides better wet detangling ease and a wet slippery feel; during the dry stage, Shampoo 1 provides better alignment, styling ease, dry combing ease, smooth feel, softness, and level of hold, while reducing frizz and dryness.

[0077] Example 4: Compositions D0 and F0 according to the prior art Two comparative examples, D0 and F0, corresponding to compositions D and F of WO21175499, were prepared.

[0078] Table 5: Comparison of compositions D and F corresponding to WO21175499. Composition (wt%) of compositions D0 and F0.

[0079] The compositions D0 and F0 are opaque, indicating that no microemulsion structure was formed.

[0080] Composition 1 according to the invention, and compositions D0 and F0, are stored in an oven at 50°C for 48 hours, during which time D0 and F0 undergo phase separation, forming a cream on top. The compositions according to the invention remain stable.

Claims

1. A silicone-free water-based cleaning composition comprising: i) 3% to 15% by weight of sulfated anionic surfactants; ii) 0.5% to 5% by weight of amphoteric surfactants; iii) 0.1% to 1% by weight of triglyceride oil, said triglyceride oil comprising at least 30% of aliphatic chains with a carbon-carbon chain length of 12; iv) 0.01% to 0.1% by weight of octanoic acid; and v) 0.1% to 2% by weight of cationic polysaccharide deposition polymer; The weight ratio of triglyceride oil to caprylic acid is 5:1 to 15:

1. The composition is in the form of a microemulsion; and The composition described herein is silicone-free.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the sulfated anionic surfactant is selected from sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium alkyl ether sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the sulfated anionic surfactant has an average degree of ethoxylation of 1EO to 3EO.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the zwitterionic surfactant is selected from betaine, cocamide monoethanolamide and mixtures thereof, preferably betaine and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having a weight ratio of the anionic surfactant (i) to the zwitterionic surfactant (ii) of 3:1 to 10:

1.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the triglyceride oil comprises 30% to 100% by weight of aliphatic chains with a carbon-carbon chain length of 12.

7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the triglyceride oil is selected from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, algal oil and mixtures thereof, preferably coconut oil.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polysaccharide deposited polymer is selected from cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, and cationic polygalactomannan.

9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the cationic polysaccharide deposition polymer is selected from dextran polymers, cationic cellulose derivatives, and cationic guar gum.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio of triglyceride oil to caprylic acid is 6:1 to 12:

1.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims is transparent.

12. A method of treating hair with the composition according to claims 1-11, comprising the step of applying the composition to the hair.

13. Use of the composition according to claims 1-11 for conditioning hair.

14. The use of the composition according to claims 1-11 for reducing hair curl compared to the composition according to claims 1-11 but excluding caprylic acid and triglyceride oil.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Personal care composition and methods

    WO2021175499A1

  • Hair conditioner formulation comprising cationic dextran polymer

    WO2022240665A1