Cosmetic composition based on chitosan and at least one crystallizable fat compound

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or skin appendages, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, and b) at least one crystallizable fat. The invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips and / or skin appendages, wherein a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or lips and / or skin appendages.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to a composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or the skin appendages, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 % to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, and b) at least one crystallizable fat.

[0002] The present application also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or the skin appendages, in which a composition according to the application is applied to the skin and / or the lips and / or the skin appendages. BACKGROUND

[0003] For many cosmetic compositions, it is desirable that the deposited film be resistant after application to keratin materials. Examples include lipsticks, foundations, mascaras or nail varnishes. To obtain such results, it is possible to combine specific raw materials, in particular film-forming agents. Furthermore, it is generally sought to obtain compositions with good coverage power.

[0004] There is a need for such a system to obtain a composition that is easy to formulate, preferably fluid, which is based on chitosan, which has good sensory properties at the time of application, whose deposit has good optical properties, such as coverage power, mattifying power, and which has good and enhanced resistance, such as to dry mechanical wear, to oil or to water.

[0005] There is in particular a need for a system for obtaining a chitosan-based composition in the form of an emulsion or even an aqueous gel, which has enhanced resistance, in particular to water.

[0006] Furthermore, the formulation of cosmetic products that are environmentally friendly, i.e. those that take into account environmental problems in their design and development, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.

[0007] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients to meet these environmental challenges.

[0008] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or raw materials with a good wilderness quality index and / or of natural origin, more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. SUMMARY

[0009] These problems can be solved by using cosmetic compositions described below, which have good formulating properties, good cosmetic properties, in particular cosmetic properties such as coverage or mattifying, good resistance to dry rubbing, water, oil and / or sebum, and good sensory properties. The object of the present invention is notably to provide emulsions comprising chitosan and having good resistance to dryness, water and / or oil.

[0010] After application, these compositions leave an optional covering and uniform film-forming deposit, which has good resistance to rubbing. The film formed is adherent and cohesive and has enhanced resistance to dryness, water and / or oil.

[0011] These compositions also comprise sustainable ingredients, which help to meet environmental challenges.

[0012] The present invention thus relates to a composition, notably for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or the skin appendages, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 % to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons, and b) at least one crystallizable fat.

[0013] Indeed, the inventors have surprisingly found that the addition of a crystallizable fat in a composition comprising chitosan, notably in a composition in the form of an emulsion or an aqueous gel, makes it possible to enhance the resistance to dryness, water and / or oil of said composition. It is also observed that these two ingredients act synergistically to obtain a uniform composition and a pleasant texture upon application, the viscosity of which is controlled.

[0014] “Physiologically acceptable” means a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.

[0015] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight of silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] Silicone means any silicone compound.

[0017] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tacky silicone polymer, preferably other than a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.

[0018] By "substantially free of silicone other than the film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than the silicone resin or silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than the MQ resin or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer" is meant that the composition comprises less than 1 wt%, preferably less than 0.5 wt%, preferably less than 0.3 wt%, preferably less than 0.1 wt% of silicone other than the film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than the silicone resin or silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than the MQ resin or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicone other than the film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than the silicone resin or silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than the MQ resin or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer. By "silicone other than the film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than the silicone resin or silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than the MQ resin or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer" is meant any silicone compound that is not the film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably not the silicone resin or silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably not the MQ resin or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.

[0019] By "resin" is meant a compound having a three-dimensional structure. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0020] The classification of silicone resins is known under the name "MDTQ", which resins are described according to the various siloxane monomer units comprised therein, each letter of the acronym "MDTQ" representing a unit type.

[0021] The letter "M" denotes monofunctional units of formula R1R2R3SiO 1 / 2 wherein the silicon atom is bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising the unit.

[0022] The letter "D" stands for difunctional units R1R2SiO 2 / 2 wherein the silicon atom is bound to two oxygen atoms.

[0023] The letter "T" denotes trifunctional units of formula R1SiO 3 / 2

[0024] In the M, D, T structural units defined above, Ri, i.e. R1, R2and R3, are identical or different and represent a hydrocarbon group (in particular an alkyl group), a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0025] Finally, the letter "Q" denotes tetrafunctional units SiO 4 / 2 ​in which the silicon atom is bound to four oxygen atoms, which in turn are bound to the remainder of the polymer.

[0026] Such resins are described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270" as well as in US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484.

[0027] MQ silicone resins are, for example, alkyl siloxysilicates of the formula [(R1)3SiO 1 / 2 ] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y (MQ units), wherein x and y are integers from 50 to 80 and such that the R1 groups are groups as defined above and are preferably alkyl groups or hydroxyl groups having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably methyl groups. Particular mention is made of trimethyl siloxysilicate or phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate.

[0028] Silicone polymers include siloxanes having organic functional groups such as polyalkylsiloxanes in which at least one alkyl group is different from methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Ceteth Dimethicone or C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or for example polyaryl siloxanes and polyarylalkyl siloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone or Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, or for example organopolysiloxanes having organic functional groups such as aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl- aminoisobutyl, for example organopolysiloxanes such as the one having the INCI name Amodimethicone, or for example organopolysiloxanes having polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol groups, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25,25-Dimethicone or Ceteth PEG / PPG-15 / 15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone.

[0029] Silicone acrylate copolymers are polymers comprising siloxane groups and hydrocarbon groups. For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone, such as for example a backbone selected from a vinyl polymer, a methacrylic polymer and / or an acrylic polymer, and at least one chain selected from siloxane side groups, and polymers comprising a siloxane backbone and at least one side hydrocarbon chain, such as a side vinyl, methacrylic and / or acrylic group.

[0030] The silicone acrylate copolymer can be selected from polymers derived from non-polar silicone copolymers comprising at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit and vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one non-polar silicone chain. Non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylates / polydimethylsiloxane copolymers, such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example under the trade names KP-545 (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Acrylates / Dimethicone Copolymer), KP-543 (Butyl Acetate (and) Acrylates / Dimethicone Copolymer), KP-549 (Methyl Trimethicone (and) Acrylates / Dimethicone Copolymer), KP-550 (INCI Name: Isododecane (and) Acrylates / Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer), KP-561 (Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylate / Polydimethylsiloxane Acrylate Copolymer), KP-562 (Acrylates / Behenyl Acrylate / Polydimethylsiloxane Acrylate Copolymer) and mixtures thereof. Further examples include acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy methyl methacrylate copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the trade names FA 4001 CM Silicone Acrylate (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxy Methacrylate Copolymer), FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate (Isododecane (and) Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxy Methacrylate Copolymer) and FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate (Isododecane (and) Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxy Methacrylate Copolymer) and mixtures thereof.

[0031] According to an embodiment, the composition according to the application is substantially free of silicone. By "substantially free of silicone" it is meant that the composition comprises less than 1 wt%, preferably less than 0.5 wt%, preferably less than 0.3 wt%, preferably less than 0.1 wt% of silicone relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicone. According to this embodiment, silicone is meant to encompass any silicone compound including film-forming or tacky silicone polymers.

[0032] The composition is preferably in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or a water-in-oil emulsion (invert emulsion).

[0033] According to an embodiment, the composition according to the application is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular having a weight ratio of the oily phase / aqueous phase of between 5:95 and 80:20, preferably between 8:92 and 65:35, preferably between 10:90 and 60:40, preferably between 12:88 and 50:50, preferably between 15:85 and 40:60.

[0034] According to an embodiment, the composition according to the application is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular having a weight ratio of the oily phase / aqueous phase of between 90:10 and 20:80, preferably between 80:20 and 30:70, preferably between 70:30 and 40:60, preferably between 65:35 and 45:55.

[0035] The composition according to the application can also be present in the form of an aqueous dispersion or an aqueous gel.

[0036] The present application also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or the skin appendages, in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied to the skin and / or the lips and / or the skin appendages.

[0037] Chitosan The composition according to the application comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, between 0.01 % and 15% by weight of at least one natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons (3 kDa).

[0038] The amount of natural chitosan is also strictly less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Preferably, the natural chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, and preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa. Preferably, the natural chitosan has a molecular weight of between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, and preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

[0040] 1 Dalton corresponds to 1 g / mol.

[0041] Chitosan is not widely present in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeleton of certain insects, such as the queen of termites, and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, namely the Zygomycetes.

[0042] Chitosan is obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked to one another by beta-(1,4) type bonds.

[0043] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic bonds (1→4).

[0044] According to the present invention, "chitosan" refers to any copolymer composed of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine constituent units, with a degree of acetylation of less than 90%. Chitosan is composed of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β-type bonds (1,4) and represents a polymer of the poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type.

[0045] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 80%, more preferably less than or equal to 70%, more preferably less than or equal to 60%, more preferably less than or equal to 50%, more preferably less than or equal to 35%, more preferably less than or equal to 25%, and more preferably less than or equal to 15%.

[0046] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units, and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0047] The chitosan according to the invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. The chitosan of the invention is particularly derived from safe and abundant food-grade or biotechnological fungal sources such as *Agaricus bisporus* (button mushroom). Agaricus bisporus ) or Aspergillus niger ( Aspergillus niger (To extract and purify)

[0048] The chitosan according to the invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of ascomycete fungi, especially Aspergillus niger, and / or basidiomycete fungi, especially Lentinus edura (shiitake mushroom). Lentinula edodes (shiitake)) and / or button mushrooms (shiitake) Agaricus bisporus Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger (…). Aspergillus niger ).

[0049] Chitosan can be GMO-derived, but is preferably non-GMO-derived.

[0050] The chitosan according to the present invention is natural, that is, it is unmodified. In particular, it has not undergone any chemical modification.

[0051] A method for preparing chitosan is described in international patent application WO03068824.

[0052] Preferably, the chitosan used in this invention is in powder form. It is particularly sold by Kitozyme under the names Kiosmetine or Kionutrime.

[0053] Chitosan is preferably present in an amount of 0.01 to 14% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 14% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 12% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 7% by weight, preferably 0.25 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 3% by weight, or more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Crystallizable fat The composition according to the application comprises at least one crystallizable fat.

[0055] Fat "crystallizable fat" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably 1%, even more preferably 0.1%). They have at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups in their structure. The crystallizable fats according to the application are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, more preferably of plant or insect-animal origin. They are different from fatty acids since the salified fatty acids form soaps that are generally soluble in aqueous medium.

[0056] For the purposes of the present application, crystallizable fat means a lipophilic compound that is solid, deformable or non-deformable at ambient temperature (25°C) and has a melting point greater than or equal to 25°C, preferably from 25°C to 200°C, preferably from 35°C to 150°C, preferably from 45°C to 130°C, preferably from 55°C to 120°C.

[0057] Some crystallizable fats are commonly known as waxes.

[0058] Wax According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the application comprises one or more waxes.

[0059] Wax "crystallizable fat" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably 1%, even more preferably 0.1%). They have at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups in their structure. The crystallizable fats according to the application are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, more preferably of plant or insect-animal origin. They are different from fatty acids since the salified fatty acids form soaps that are generally soluble in aqueous medium.

[0060] ​​For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point is the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC), as described in ISO standard 11357-3:1999. The melting point of crystallizable fats can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. This measurement method is described, for example, in document PCT / EP2013 / 062964.

[0061] Among the crystallizable fats of mineral origin, mention can be made of paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin and microcrystalline wax.

[0062] Among the crystallizable fats of plant origin, mention can be made of carnauba wax; candelilla wax, such as the wax sold under the reference SP 75G by Strahl & Pitsch; bayberry wax; sugar cane wax; ceramides; alfa wax; olive tree wax; rice wax, such as the wax sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Rica Noda; sunflower (seed) wax, such as the wax sold under the reference Sunflower Wax by Koster Keunen; hydrogenated jojoba wax; hydrogenated castor oil; hydrogenated olive oil; hydrogenated cotton oil; green mimosa polyglyceryl-3 ester; jojoba and sunflower waxes; and pure flower waxes, such as essential blackcurrant flower wax; soy wax; waxberry fruit wax.

[0063] Other crystallizable fats of plant origin that can be mentioned are, for example, Caranday wax, Raphia wax, Colombian wax, alfa wax, alfalfa wax, bamboo wax, hemp wax, Douglas wax, cork wax, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, Dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, Ocatilla wax, palm wax, wax Myrica, waxberry wax, ucuhiba wax, Borneo wax, Malabar wax, illipe wax and Japanese tallow or Japanese wax.

[0064] Crystallizable fats of animal origin that can be mentioned are, for example, beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), lanolin and whale wax.

[0065] The crystallizable fats can also be chosen from long-chain crystallizable alcohols and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50), stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, C26-C22 alcohols.

[0066] The crystallizable fat can also be selected from long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids and mixtures thereof, such as the INCI compound "Cetearyl (and) Myristyl Stearate and Myristyl Palmitate Cetearyl Mixture", or the INCI compound "Myristyl Stearate and Myristyl Palmitate Mixture", diglycol diester, glycol stearate, cetyl palmitate such as the commercially available product ERCA WAX CP V / O from supplier ERCA, isopropyl palmitate, C20-C40 alkyl stearate, long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof, for example the compound sold under the trade name COMPRITOL 888 CG ATO by Gattefosse (INCI: Diglyceryl Dibehenate (and) Glyceryl Tribehenate (and) Glyceryl Behenate) or each of the individually obtainable components thereof, the triester of glycerol and behenic acid (INCI: Tricetearyl Citrate), the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid (INCI: Glyceryl Trihydroxystearate), glyceryl trilinoleate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl tristearate, glycerol distearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl dipalmitostearate and polyoxy-6 glyceryl linoleate. The crystallizable fat selected from long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof is preferably selected from esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group. The crystallizable fat can also be selected from long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids and mixtures thereof, such as the INCI compound "Cetearyl (and) Myristyl Stearate and Myristyl Palmitate Cetearyl Mixture", or the INCI compound "Myristyl Stearate and Myristyl Palmitate Mixture", diglycol diester, glycol stearate, cetyl palmitate such as the commercially available product ERCA WAX CP V / O from supplier ERCA, isopropyl palmitate, C20-C40 alkyl stearate, long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof, for example the compound sold under the trade name COMPRITOL 888 CG ATO by Gattefosse (INCI: Diglyceryl Dibehenate (and) Glyceryl Tribehenate (and) Glyceryl Behenate) or each of the individually obtainable components thereof, the triester of glycerol and behenic acid (INCI: Tricetearyl Citrate), the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid (INCI: Glyceryl Trihydroxystearate), glyceryl trilinoleate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl tristearate, glycerol distearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl dipalmitostearate and polyoxy-6 glyceryl linoleate. The crystallizable fat selected from long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof is preferably selected from esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group.

[0067] Other crystallizable fats that can be used according to the application are typically in particular marine waxes, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes, such as alpha-olefin oligomers, for example the polymers Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene / propylene copolymers such as Performalene® EP 700, or Fischer-Tropsch waxes or mixtures of these products.

[0068] Preferably, the crystallizable fat is chosen from crystallizable fats of animal or plant origin, esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group, and copolymers of sorbitol and of C12-C24 fatty acid esters with C6-C16 fatty acid diacids, preferably chosen from triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of monoesters, diesters and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid, and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid, preferably chosen from triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, copolymers of glycerol and esterified with behenic acid, preferably chosen from triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid, preferably chosen from triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, copolymers of glycerol and esterified with behenic acid, and copolymers of glycerol and sebacic acid and esterified with behenic acid and glycerol and sorbitol and hydroxystearic acid, and sunflower wax.

[0069] Preferably, the crystallizable fat is present in a concentration ranging from 0.01 % to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 12% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 8% by weight, advantageously from 1.5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] According to an embodiment, the weight ratio between chitosan and crystallizable fat is greater than or equal to 0.1, preferably greater than or equal to 0.2, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8, preferably greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, preferably greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 10.

[0071] According to an embodiment, the weight ratio between chitosan and crystallizable fat is greater than or equal to 0.1, preferably greater than or equal to 0.2, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8, preferably greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, preferably greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 10.

[0072] According to another embodiment, the weight ratio between crystallizable fat and chitosan is greater than or equal to 0.1, preferably greater than or equal to 0.2, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8, preferably greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, preferably greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 10.

[0073] Pigment colorant material The composition according to the application can further comprise at least one pigment colorant material. The pigment colorant material is chosen from powdery colorant materials such as mineral pigments, nacres and organic pigments.

[0074] "Pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles which are insoluble in aqueous solution and which are intended to color the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0075] Preferably, the pigment coloring material is chosen from mineral pigments, preferably chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide or chromium oxide and mixtures thereof; preferably, the pigment coloring material is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Preferably, the pigment coloring material is present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] Mineral pigment According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the application are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0078] "Mineral pigments" means any pigment which complies with the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments of Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Among the mineral pigments which can be used in the application, mention can be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and iron blues, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, mixtures of ZrO2with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0079] The pigments that can be used in the context of the application generally have a size greater than 5 nm, preferably greater than 10 nm, preferably greater than 20 nm, preferably greater than 100 nm, and can range up to 10 pm, preferably from 5 nm to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm. According to a particular embodiment of the application, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm, and can range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm. This size is measured by means of a static light scattering measurement by means of a commercial Mastersizer 3000® particle size instrument from Malvern, making it possible to understand the size distribution of all the particles over a wide range ranging from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classic Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited to size distributions ranging from submicron up to microns, and makes it possible to determine the "effective" diameter of the particles. This theory is described in detail in the book "Light Scattering by Small Particles" by Van de Hulst, H.C., Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] denotes the maximum size of 50% by volume of the particles.

[0080] In the context of the application, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide. For example, mention can more particularly be made of titanium dioxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate and iron oxides, for example sold under the trade name NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.

[0081] As mineral pigments that can be used in the application, mention can also be made of nacres.

[0082] The term "nacre" should be understood to mean coloured particles, of iridescent or non- iridescent colour, of any shape, which are produced in particular by certain molluscs in their shells, or which are synthetic, and which exhibit a colour effect by optical interference.

[0083] The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, for example titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with a bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with a chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. They can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed. As examples of nacres, mention can also be made of natural micas coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention can be made of the TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® (mica-based) nacres sold by ENGELHARD, the TIMIRON® sold by MERCK, the PRESTIGE® mica-based nacres sold by ECKART, and the SUNSHINE® S synthetic mica-based nacres sold by SUN CHEMICA.

[0084] More particularly, the nacres can have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown and / or coppery color or glint.As examples of nacres that can be used in the context of the application, mention can be made in particular of gold-colored nacres, in particular sold under the names Brillant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne) by ENGELHARD; bronze-colored nacres, in particular sold under the trade names Bronze fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) by MERCK, and Super bronze (Cloisonne) by ENGELHARD; orange-colored nacres, in particular sold under the trade names Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) by ENGELHARD, and Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449)® (Microna) by MERCK; brown-toned nacres, in particular sold under the trade names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite) by ENGELHARD; antique copper- shiny nacres, in particular sold under the trade name Copper 340A® (Timica) by ENGELHARD; red-shiny nacres, in particular sold under the trade name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona) by MERCK; yellow-shiny nacres, in particular sold under the trade name Yellow (4502)® (Chromalite) by ENGELHARD; gold-shiny red-toned nacres, in particular sold under the trade name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone) by ENGELHARD; pink nacres, in particular sold under the trade name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone) by ENGELHARD; gold-shiny black nacres, in particular sold under the trade name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica) by ENGELHARD; blue nacres, in particular sold under the trade name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna) by MERCK; silver-shiny white nacres, in particular sold under the trade name Xirona Silver® by MERCK, green-gold and rose-orange nacres, in particular sold under the trade name Indian Summer® (Xirona) by MERCK, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Among the pigments that can be used according to the application, mention can also be made of those having optical effects other than simple conventional tonal effects, i.e. consistent and stable effects produced by conventional colouring materials, for example monochromatic pigments. "Stable" means, for the purposes of the application, the absence of effects of variability of colour with the angle of observation or in response to temperature variations. For example, the material can be chosen from particles with metallic lustre, angularly colour-changeable colourants, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, in particular of the interference type. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide a simultaneous performance of two effects, or even a new effect according to the application.

[0086] The particles with metallic lustre that can be used in the application are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or of at least one metal derivative, particles comprising a single- or multi-substance, organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one metallic-lustre layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and mixtures of said particles.

[0087] Among the metals that can be present in the particles, mention can be made of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof, for example bronze and brass, are preferred metals.

[0088] The term "metal derivative" means a compound derived from a metal, in particular an oxide, a fluoride, a chloride and a sulphide.

[0089] As examples of these particles, mention can be made of aluminium particles, for example those sold under the trade name STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by SIBERLINE and under the trade name METALURE® by ECKART.

[0090] Mention can also be made of metallic powders or alloy mixtures of copper, for example the grade 2844 sold by RADIUM BRONZE; metallic pigments such as aluminium or bronze, such as those sold under the trade name ROTOSAFE 700® by ECKART, silica-coated aluminium particles sold under the trade name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER® by ECKART; and metallic alloy particles such as silica-coated bronze (copper and zinc alloy) sold under the trade name Visionary Bright Natural Gold® by Eckart.

[0091] The particles in question can also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those sold by NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the trade name MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

[0092] The angularly color-changing colorants can be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colorants.

[0093] An example of a symmetrical multilayer interference structure that can be used in the composition prepared according to the application is, for example, the following structure: Al / Si02 / Al / Si02 / Al, pigments with this structure sold by DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments with this structure sold by FLEX under the trade name CHROMAFLAIR®; MoS2 / Si02 / Al / Si02 / MoS2; Fe203 / Si02 / Al / Si02 / Fe203and Fe203 / Si02 / Fe203 / Si02 / Fe203, pigments with this structure sold by BASF under the trade name SICOPEARL®; MoS2 / Si02 / mica-oxide / Si02MoS2; Fe203 / Si02 / mica-oxide / Si02 / Fe203; Ti02 / Si02 / Ti02and Ti02 / Al203 / Ti02; SnO / Ti02 / Si02 / Ti02 / SnO; Fe203 / Si02 / Fe203; SnO / mica / Ti02 / Si02 / Ti02 / mica / SnO, pigments with this structure sold by MERCK (DARMSTADT) under the trade name XIRONA®. By way of example, these pigments can be the pigments with silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold by MERCK under the name XIRONA MAGIC®, the pigments with silica / brown iron oxide structure sold by MERCK under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER®, and the pigments with silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure sold by MERCK under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE®. Mention can also be made of the INFINITE COLOURS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, for a Si02layer varying from 320 nm to 350 nm, the structure Fe203 / Si02 / Al / Si02 / Fe203, the color varies from gold green to gray red; for a Si02layer varying from 380 nm to 400 nm, from red to gold; for a Si02layer varying from 410 nm to 420 nm, from purple to green; for a Si02layer varying from 430 nm to 440 nm, from copper to red.

[0094] As examples of pigments having a polymeric multilayer structure, mention can be made of those sold by 3M under the trade name COLOR GLITTER®.

[0095] Examples of liquid crystal photochromic particles that can be used include those sold by CHENIX, and those sold by WACKER under the trade name HELICONE® HC.

[0096] Hydrophobic coated pigments According to a particular embodiment of the application, the composition according to the application comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, in particular as detailed hereafter.

[0097] Pigments of this type are particularly advantageous in that they can be used in large quantities with large amounts of water. Furthermore, thanks to their treatment with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a preferential affinity for oily gel phases, which they can thus transport.

[0098] Obviously, the composition according to the application can also contain, simultaneously, uncoated pigments.

[0099] The coating can also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0100] According to the application, the coating of the pigments of the application generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigments by a surface agent absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the surface of said pigments.

[0101] The surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0102] The surface agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by means of solvent evaporation, chemical reaction or formation of covalent bonds.

[0103] According to a variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0104] The coating can represent from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coated pigments.

[0105] For example, the coating is carried out by adsorbing the liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles, simply by mixing, while stirring, the particles and said surface agent, optionally with heating, before incorporating the particles into the other ingredients of the cosmetic or care composition.

[0106] The coating can be carried out, for example, by means of a chemical reaction of the surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the formation of covalent bonds between the surface agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in patent US 4,578,266.

[0107] Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting a surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing a pigment in the mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, causing the surface agent to deposit on the surface of the pigment.

[0108] Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent When the pigment contains a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the oil phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0109] According to specific embodiments of the present invention, pigments can be coated with at least one compound selected from the following: silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metal soaps, n-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate; sebacic acid isostearate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Silicone surface agent According to specific implementation methods, silicone compounds can be used to perform complete or partial surface treatment on pigments.

[0111] Silicone surface agents can be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] Organopolysiloxane compounds are compounds that have a structure containing alternating silicon and oxygen atoms and contain organic groups bonded to silicon atoms.

[0113] Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane As non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxane, polymethylhydrosiloxane, and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxane may be specifically mentioned.

[0114] The alkoxy group can be represented by the group RO-, such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, aryl such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl such as phenethyl.

[0115] A method for surface-treating pigments with polymethylhydrosiloxanes involves dispersing the pigment in an organic solvent and then adding a silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are formed between the silicone compound and the pigment surface.

[0116] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surface agent may be a non-elastomeric organic polysiloxane, particularly selected from polydimethylsiloxane.

[0117] Alkylsilane and alkoxysilane Silanes with alkoxy functional groups are particularly described by Witucki in "A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993".

[0118] Alkoxysilanes, such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the brands Milquet A-137® (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202® (PCR), can be used to coat pigments.

[0119] Alkyl polysiloxanes having reactive end groups, such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino, or imino, are described in application JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for treating pigments.

[0120] Silicone-acrylate polymer Grafted silicone-acrylate polymers having a silicone backbone as described in patents US 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and patents US 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582 can be used.

[0121] Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers whose structure contains units according to formula (II) below: (II) The group G1, whether the same or different, represents hydrogen or C1-C. 10 Alkyl or phenyl; group G2, same or different, indicating C1-C 10 Alkylene; G3 represents polymer residues obtained by (homogeneous) polymerization of at least one anionic monomer having olefinic unsaturation; G4 represents polymer residues obtained by (homogeneous) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer having olefinic unsaturation; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer from 0 to 50; b is an integer between 10 and 350; c is an integer from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.

[0122] Preferably, the unit having the above formula (I) has at least one of the following features, and more preferably all of the following features: Group G1 represents an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group; n is different from zero, and the group G2 represents a C1-C3 divalent group, preferably propylidene; G3 represents a polymer group produced by the (homogeneous) polymerization of at least one carboxylic acid monomer having olefinic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid. G4 indicates that it is composed of at least one alkyl group (C1-C4). 10 The polymer group is a polymer group produced by the (homogeneous) polymerization of monomers of the (meth)acrylate type, preferably isobutyl (meth)acrylate or at least one monomer of the meth (meth)acrylate type.

[0123] Examples of silicone polymers conforming to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having mixed polymer units of poly(meth)acrylic acid type and poly(meth)acrylate type linked thereto via thiopropylene type links.

[0124] Other examples of silicone polymers conforming to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which poly(meth)acrylate isobutyl acrylate polymer units are linked via thiopropylene-type links.

[0125] Silicone resin Silicone surface agents can be selected from silicone resins, such as those defined above.

[0126] Fluorinated surface agent Fluorinated compounds can be used to completely or partially treat the surface of pigments.

[0127] Fluorinated surface agents can be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), perfluorocarbons, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, and polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.

[0128] Perfluoroalkyl refers to an alkyl group in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0129] Perfluoropolyethers are specifically described in patent application EP 0 486 135 and are sold by MONTEFLUOS under the trade name FOMBLIN.

[0130] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are specifically described in application JP H05-86984. Diethanolamine, a perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Asahi Glass under the brand name Asahi Guard AG530®, can be used.

[0131] Among straight-chain perfluorinated hydrocarbons, perfluorinated cycloalkanes, perfluorinated (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluorinated polycyclic alkanes, aromatic perfluorinated hydrocarbons (perfluorinated aromatics), and hydrocarbon organofluorinated compounds containing at least one heteroatom can be mentioned.

[0132] Among perfluorocarbons, straight-chain alkanes can be mentioned, such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane, or perfluorodecane.

[0133] Among perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoronaphthenes sold by RHODIA under the trade name FLUTECPP5 GMP, perfluoro (methylnaphthenes), and perfluoro (C3-C5 alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro (butylcyclohexane) may be mentioned.

[0134] Among perfluoropolycyclic alkanes, bicyclic [3.3.1]nonane derivatives, such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclic [3.3.1]nonane; adamantane derivatives, such as perfluorodimethyladamantane; and perfluorinated phenanthrene derivatives, such as tetratetrafluoro-tetrahydrophenanthrene.

[0135] Among perfluoroaromatics, perfluorinated naphthalene derivatives such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene can be mentioned.

[0136] As an example of commercial brands of pigments treated with fluorinated compounds, the following can be mentioned: Yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Kasei under the brand name PF 5 Yellow 601®; Red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Kasei under the designation PF 5 Red 516L®; Black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Kasei under the designation PF 5 Black 100®; Titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Kasei under the brand name PF 5 TiO2 CR 50®; Yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold by Toshiki under the brand name Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3®; DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether, marketed by Cardre Inc. under the brand name D&C Red 7 FHC®; and DC Red 6 / PTFE sold by Warner-Jenkinson under the designation T 9506®.

[0137] Fluorosilicone surface agent Fluorosilicone compounds can be used to perform complete or partial surface treatment on pigments.

[0138] Fluorosilicone compounds can be selected from perfluoroalkyl polydimethylsiloxane, perfluoroalkyl silane, and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilane.

[0139] For perfluoroalkyl silanes, the products LP-IT® and LP-4T® sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone can be mentioned.

[0140] As an example of a commercial brand of pigments treated with fluorosilicone compounds, one can mention titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold by AdvancedDermaceuticals International Inc under the brand name Fluorosil Tiitanium Dioxide 100TA®.

[0141] Other lipophilic surface agent Hydrophobic treatment agents can also be selected from: (i) Metallic soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum hydrogenated tallow glutamate; As for metallic soaps, metallic soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially metallic soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, may be specifically mentioned.

[0142] The metal in metallic soaps can be zinc or magnesium, in particular.

[0143] As a metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used.

[0144] Hydrophobic treatment agents may also be selected from ii) fatty acids, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and palmitic acid.

[0145] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from iii) N-acylated amino acids or their salts, which may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, and cocoyl.

[0146] Amino acids can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0147] The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts.

[0148] Therefore, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid derivative can be, in particular, a glutamate derivative and / or any salt thereof, and more particularly, a stearoyl glutamate salt, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0149] Hydrophobic treatment agents may also be selected from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0150] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

[0151] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl triisostearate titanate (ITT) include those from KOBO under the brand names BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl triisostearate titanate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl triisostearate titanate), and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl triisostearate titanate).

[0152] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be vi) sebacic acid isostearate.

[0153] Hydrophobic treatment agents may also be selected from vii) natural plant or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes; Hydrophobic treatment agents may also be selected from (viii) fatty esters, especially jojoba esters; Hydrophobic treatment agents can also be selected from phospholipids (ix).

[0154] The waxes mentioned in the above compounds can be those commonly used in the cosmetics industry, as defined below.

[0155] They can be, in particular, hydrocarbons, silicones, and / or fluorinated compounds, optionally containing ester or hydroxyl functional groups. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0156] Polar waxes are waxes containing compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they can be, for example, alcohol, ester, or carboxylic acid groups. These polar waxes do not include polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ceresin wax, or Fischer-Tropsch wax.

[0157] Specifically, polar waxes exhibit properties such as δa>0 (J / cm²) at 25°C. 3 ) 1 / 2 And preferably δa>1 (J / cm) 3 ) 1 / 2 The average Hansen solubility parameter δa: [Mathematical Expression 1]

[0158] δp and δh represent the contributions of polarity and specific interaction types to the Hansen solubility parameter, respectively.

[0159] According to C.M. Hansen's definition of solvent in three-dimensional solubility space, as described in his article "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" in *J. Paint Technol.* 39, 105 (1967): δh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor bonds, etc.); δp characterizes the DEBYE interaction between permanent dipoles and the KEESOM interaction between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

[0160] The parameters δp and δh are expressed in terms of (J / cm). 3 ) 1 / 2 express.

[0161] Polar waxes are in particular composed of molecules that contain heteroatoms (such as O, N, P) in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure.

[0162] As non-limiting examples of these polar waxes, particular mention may be made of natural polar waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricurywax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japanese wax, lacquer tree wax, and lignite wax.

[0163] According to a specific embodiment, the pigment may be coated with at least one compound selected from the following: silicone surfactants, fluorinated surfactants, N-acylated amino acids or their salts, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, natural plant or animal waxes, fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment may be coated with N-acylated amino acids and / or any salts thereof, especially glutamic acid derivatives and / or any salts thereof; or coated with fatty esters, especially jojoba esters.

[0165] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment may be coated with N-acylated amino acids and / or any salts thereof, especially with glutamic acid derivatives and / or any salts thereof, particularly stearoyl glutamate salts, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0166] As an example of the coated pigment according to the invention, more particular reference can be made to titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example, those sold by MIYOSHI KASEI under the brand name NAI.

[0167] Pigment not coated with a hydrophobic compound As described above, the composition may also contain pigments that are not coated with lipophilic or hydrophobic compounds.

[0168] These other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound or left uncoated.

[0169] These pigments can be mineral pigments, especially mineral pigments as defined above.

[0170] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0171] "Organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the organic pigments chapter of the Ullman Encyclopedia. Organic pigments may in particular be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthan, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolineone, isoindoline, quinacridone, pyrenone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinoline phthaloylene compounds.

[0172] Organic pigments can be selected from, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments coded CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160 (in the color index), yellow pigments coded CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005 (in the color index), green pigments coded CI 61565, 61570, 74260 (in the color index), orange pigments coded CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 7117 (in the color index), and others ...60 (in the color index), and others coded CI 42090, 69800, 6982 Red pigments of 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0173] Pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1184426. These composite pigments may specifically consist of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one adhesive for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0174] Pigments can also be lacquer. The term lacquer refers to an insoluble dye adsorbed onto insoluble particles, thereby obtaining an aggregate that remains insoluble during use.

[0175] The inorganic substrate on which the dye is adsorbed is, for example, alumina, silica, borosilicate, calcium and sodium or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0176] Among organic dyes, cochineal carmine can be mentioned. Products known by the following names may also be cited: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0177] As an example of paint, one can mention the product known by the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0178] Properties of the hydrophilic coating As mentioned above, these other pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic coating.

[0179] The hydrophilic compounds used for surface treatment of pigments to optimize their dispersion in a gelling aqueous phase are more particularly selected from biopolymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates, or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0180] As an example of biopolymers, polymers based on carbohydrate-type monomers can be mentioned.

[0181] More specifically, this may include bio-glycogum; chitosan and its derivatives, such as butoxy-chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.; chitin and its derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitin and chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; arabinogalactan; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0182] As an example of carbohydrates, one can specifically mention those with the general formula C2. x (H2O) y Polyhydroxy aldehydes or polyhydroxy ketones x and y can be in the range of 1 to 1,000,000.

[0183] Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0184] Examples of carbohydrates that can be specifically mentioned include starch dextrin, beta-glucan, cyclodextrin, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glycerol starch, wheat starch (Triticum vulgare starch), trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, and sodium chondroitin sulfate.

[0185] C1-C 20 Alkylene glycols or C1-C 20 Alkyl glycol ethers, alone or with tri-C1-C 20 - Alkylsilanes in combination can also be used as surface treatment agents.

[0186] Pigments treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilanes may be mentioned, such as those treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane sold by KOBO under the name SW Pigments.

[0187] As a surface treatment agent, silicones such as polydimethylsiloxanes with hydrophilic groups, also known as polydimethylsiloxane copolyols or alkyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, are also suitable for use in this invention. In particular, such polydimethylsiloxanes may contain C1-C... 20 (For example, ethylene or propylene) epoxides are used as repeating units.

[0188] As an example, one could mention the pigments treated with PEG-12-polydimethylsiloxane sold by SENSIENT CORPORATION under the trade name LCW AQ®.

[0189] The amount of pigment coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and / or uncoated pigment is determined in particular by the ultimate purpose of the cosmetic composition in question, and its adjustment is clearly within the scope of the expertise of the formulator of the composition.

[0190] According to a specific embodiment, the composition comprises at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide and / or iron oxides, particularly coated with N-acylated amino acids and / or any salts thereof, particularly glutamic acid derivatives and / or any salts thereof, particularly stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0191] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one coated or uncoated pigment, preferably at least one coated pigment.

[0192] Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) The compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one α-hydroxy acid.

[0193] According to the present invention, an α-hydroxy acid is a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying the α position (the carbon adjacent to the carboxylic acid functional group) on the acid. The acid may be present in the final composition as a free acid and / or as one of its associated salts (particularly with an organic base or a salt of a base), particularly depending on the final pH applied to the composition.

[0194] α-Hydroxy acids (alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs) are selected, for example, from lactic acid, citric acid, methyl lactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvalerate, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, tung oil acid, ribonucleic acid, hydroxymalonic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0195] According to a preferred embodiment, the α-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and their salts. More specifically, the α-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, their salts, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the α-hydroxy acid is lactic acid or any salt thereof.

[0196] The α-hydroxy acid may be present in amounts from 0.001% to 10% by weight, 0.005% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] Surfactant The composition may also contain at least one surfactant, preferably a nonionic, cationic or anionic surfactant, with nonionic surfactant being preferred.

[0198] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant can be selected from nonionic surfactants known in the art, particularly from esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols, glycol esters, poloxamers, polysorbates, and mixtures thereof.

[0199] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from esters of fats and polyglycerols, as well as sugar esters, and more preferably from esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols.

[0200] If present, the nonionic surfactant is present at a concentration of 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably at a concentration of 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight.

[0201] Physiologically acceptable aqueous medium The compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.

[0202] The medium includes, in particular, water.

[0203] The water used can be sterile softened water and / or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water, or linden water, and / or spring water or natural mineral water, such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water, or LAROCHE POSAY water.

[0204] The composition preferably contains at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, even more preferably at least 70% by weight, and advantageously at least 80% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] The composition preferably contains 5% to 95% by weight, more preferably 10% to 85% by weight, even more preferably 20% to 80% by weight, even more preferably 25% to 75% by weight, even more preferably 28% to 70% by weight, even more preferably 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferably 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0206] The aqueous phase may also include at least one organic solvent that is miscible with water at 25°C.

[0207] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

[0208] In alcohols, C1-C can be mentioned. 10 More preferably, C1-C5 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0209] The polyol, preferably, is selected from polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isopentyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediol, polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0210] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention contain ethanol.

[0211] The composition may contain 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, and advantageously 2% to 5% by weight of a water-miscible organic solvent relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0212] Preferably, the weight ratio of polyol (if present) to chitosan (i.e., polyol:chitosan weight ratio) is between 0.1 and 6. More preferably, it is between 0.1 and 5, more preferably between 0.2 and 5, more preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, and more preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0213] Oil phase The compositions according to the invention preferably further comprise at least one oil phase. When the compositions used according to the invention comprise an oil phase, the oil phase preferably comprises at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fats.

[0214] "Oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10). 5 Pa), is immiscible with water.

[0215] "Immeasurable" means that under the above temperature and pressure conditions, a mixture of equal amounts of water and oil will not produce a stable solution containing only one single phase after stirring. 100g of the mixture, obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to induce eddies (200-1000 rpm as an indicator), was observed visually or, if necessary, with a phase-contrast microscope; prior to observation, the resulting mixture was allowed to stand in a sealed flask at ambient temperature for 24 hours.

[0216] As an oil that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, examples may be mentioned, such as: Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic acid or caprylic acid triglycerides, or such as sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia nut, arala oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides (such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818), jojoba oil, shea butter; Synthetic esters and ethers, particularly fatty acid esters and ethers, such as oils having the formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2, where R1 is a fatty acid residue having 8-29 carbon atoms and R2 is a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing 3-30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin. oil), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearate malate, triisohexadecyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, and decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisonononate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate or dipentaerythritol pentaisonononate; Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oil, whether volatile or not, and their derivatives; branched hydrocarbon oils having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and mixtures thereof; petrolatum; polydecene; polyisobutylene; hydrogenated polyisobutylene, such as Parleam® sold by NIPPON OIL FATS; PANALANE H-300E sold by AMOCO; VISEAL 20000 sold by SYNTEAL; REWOPAL PIB 1000 sold by WITCO; or PARLEAM LITE sold by NOF AG; branched alkanes, alone or in mixtures, such as mixtures of undecane and tridecane sold by BASF under the name Cétiol UT; or those sold by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT SILK; or mixtures of C13-15 alkanes sold by AMYRIS under the name NEOSSANCE HEMISQUALANE CN. Fluorinated oils containing certain hydrocarbons and / or siloxanes, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; or A mixture of them.

[0217] The composition may contain 5 wt% to 90 wt%, preferably 7 wt% to 80 wt%, more preferably 10 wt% to 60 wt%, and advantageously 15 wt% to 40 wt% of an oil phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil with a weight concentration relative to the total weight of the composition of less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, and preferably less than or equal to 7%. Preferably, the weight ratio between the oil phase and the crystallizable fat is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.3 and 3, and preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0219] "Non-volatile oil" refers to oil that remains on keratin materials for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially oil with a vapor pressure of less than 10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0220] The oil can be selected from the oils mentioned above.

[0221] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises volatile oils and / or volatile alcohols.

[0222] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" refers to any oil that can evaporate upon contact with skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil according to the invention is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature and has a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0223] The volatile oil can be selected from hydrocarbon volatile oils, siloxane volatile oils, fluorinated volatile oils and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon volatile oils.

[0224] Volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as petroleum-based C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under trade names such as Isopar® and Permethyl®.

[0225] In particular, the compositions according to the invention may contain isododecane, cyclopentadioxane, isohexadecane, or mixtures thereof.

[0226] The composition according to the invention may contain volatile oil at a concentration of 1 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably 10 to 40% by weight, and more preferably 15 to 25% by weight.

[0227] Volatile alcohols refer to C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and n-propanol.

[0228] The composition according to the invention may contain volatile alcohols of a water-miscible organic solvent in an amount of 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, and advantageously 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] pH of the composition The pH of the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, and more preferably less than or equal to 6.3. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.3.

[0230] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base and / or at least one acid. The bases and acids according to the invention are known and commonly used in the cosmetics field.

[0231] Bases and / or acids are particularly used to adjust the final pH of the composition to between 3 and 6.3.

[0232] The acid can be, for example, citric acid.

[0233] The alkali can be selected from mineral alkalis, such as alkali metal hydroxides, like sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.

[0234] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0235] The composition according to the invention may contain at least one base, the concentration of which is 0.5% to 10% by weight, particularly 1% to 5% by weight, and preferably 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] The compositions according to the present invention are readily available to those skilled in the art.

[0237] Unless otherwise stated, expressions “between… and…”, “ranging from… to…”, and “changing from… to…” should be understood to include the boundary value. Detailed Implementation

[0238] Specific, but non-limiting, embodiments illustrating the invention will now be provided.

[0239] Example Example 1 : Preparation of the compositions C2 and C4 according to the application and of the comparative compositions C1* and C3* Compositions C2 and C4 according to the invention, and comparative compositions C1* and C3*, were prepared using the ingredients mentioned in the table below according to the following schemes: Reverse Emulsion Chitosan was added by pouring it into water in a Rayneri deflocculator. Lactic acid was then added and maintained at 300 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0240] Meanwhile, in the final beaker, isododecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and polyglycerol-6 polyricinoleate are mixed at 250 rpm in a Rayneri deflocculator.

[0241] Add the crystallizable fat and mix vigorously at 1000 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0242] The aqueous phase was slowly added to the final beaker by increasing the rotation speed to 500 rpm.

[0243] Add the dry pigment paste, then add the alcohol.

[0244] direct emulsion Aqueous phase If chitosan is present: Chitosan is dispersed in water using a Rayneri deflocculator.

[0245] Add lactic acid and stir for 30 minutes, adjusting the speed to minimize eddies.

[0246] Add polyglycerol-10 laurate and alcohol and stir for 10 minutes.

[0247] Add the pigment and stir for 10 minutes.

[0248] If chitosan is not present: Polyglycerol-10 laurate was dispersed in water under a Rayneri deflocculator, with the speed adjusted to have minimal eddy currents.

[0249] Add alcohol.

[0250] Add the pigment and stir for 10 minutes.

[0251] oil phase The oil phase is heated to 60°C on a magnetic hot plate to obtain a homogeneous mixture, which is then cooled to ambient temperature.

[0252] emulsification The oil phase is added to the aqueous phase in a Rayneri deflocculator and stirred for 10 minutes, adjusting the speed to have minimal eddies.

[0253] Compositions C1* and C2 are reverse emulsions, while compositions C3* and C4 are direct emulsions.

[0254] The amount of each component is expressed as a mass ratio to the total weight of the composition.

[0255] [Table 1]

[0256] *The pigments used in the composition are a mixture of TiO2 pigments surface-treated with stearoyl glutamate and iron oxides treated with disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide (NAI-White A and NAI-BHP-10, NAI-YHP-10 and NAI-R-800HP-10 from Miyoshi Kasei). Example 2: Evaluation of the compositions C2 and C4 according to the application and of the comparative compositions C1* and C3* The dryness resistance, water resistance, and oil resistance of C1*, C2, C3*, and C4 from Example 1 were evaluated in vitro according to the following protocol: Protocol for applying the composition to form a film Each composition was coated using a coating table (Elcometer 4340 spreader) that allowed for adjustable coating speed and length. The table was equipped with a suction system connected to a pump, ensuring the substrate on which the product was coated remained stationary. A contrast chart (1 byko chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831) with a black background and an unpainted white background was used. Coating thickness was adjustable using a square applicator placed on the substrate for leveling when the platform was open. Each section of the applicator allowed for coating to different thicknesses, ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm. A thickness of 25 μm was selected to approximate the thickness of the in-vivo film. A 960 g weight was added to the top of the applicator during coating. The coating speed was set to 1 in / sec, or 2.54 cm / s. The film was dried for 24 hours at ambient temperature and humidity (50% RH).

[0257] Scheme used to measure contrast to demonstrate coverage capability Color measurements were performed using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. Contact measurement ensures no light pollution.

[0258] Selected settings: aperture 8mm; uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; geometry d / 8.

[0259] Color measurements under two backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB) allow the coverage of the foundation to be characterized by calculating the "contrast ratio" (CR%), which is YFN / YFB × 100, where YFN and YFB are the brightness values ​​measured on the black and white backgrounds, respectively, which increase with the coverage of the foundation.

[0260] Test protocol for resistance to dryness, water and oil Water resistance to abrasion was tested by colorimetric measurement of the dry film before and after abrasion. Abrasion was performed by attaching a cloth wiping material (Chicopee Veraclean Polish Plus), which could be wetted (containing 400µL of water or oil) to a 25µm applicator blade if desired. A 960g weight was added to the applicator during abrasion. The table speed was set to 2.54cm / s.

[0261] As mentioned above, spectrophotometry is used to measure the color before and after wear.

[0262] To assess abrasion resistance, the “contrast ratio” was measured before friction (CR dry deposit, %) and after wear (CR Rub dry deposit, %). The loss [(CR Rub dry deposit - CR dry deposit] / CR dry deposit]*100 quantifies the loss of covering force as a percentage and indicates the abrasion resistance of the membrane: the lower the loss, the stronger the abrasion resistance of the membrane.

[0263] Each CR value represents the average of 3 to 6 measurements.

[0264] The results are summarized in the table below.

[0265] [Table 2]

[0266] [Table 3]

[0267] These results indicate that: Adding crystallizable fats to a direct emulsion containing 2% chitosan significantly improves the oil resistance of the masking powder. Adding crystallizable fats to a reverse emulsion containing 2% chitosan significantly improves the dryness and water resistance of the masking powder.

[0268] Example 3: Evaluation of the stability / viscosity The three compositions (direct emulsions) listed in the table below were prepared according to the scheme in Example 1. [Table 4]

[0269] Protocol for evaluating the viscosity Protocol for evaluating the viscosity Viscosity measurements were performed on a DHR2 rheometer from TA Instruments, using a sandblasted stator and a sandblasted planar spindle with a 1 mm gap, at a test temperature of 25°C. For 0.1 s... -1 The shear was measured to obtain viscosity results in Pa·s in a comparable and systematic manner.

[0270] In these tests, at equal concentrations of total mass between crystalline fats and / or chitosan, the following was observed: Composition C5*, containing only crystallizable fats, was immediately separated. The viscosity of composition C7*, which contains only chitosan, increases uncontrollably, and Only the composition C6 containing both crystallizable fats and chitosan according to the present invention is suitable for formulation and has a controlled and acceptable viscosity.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or the skin appendages, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 % to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, b) at least one crystallizable fat, and c) at least one pigment color material; the pH of the composition being less than or equal to 6.

5.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein, The natural chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa, and preferably the natural chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, and preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, The natural chitosan has a degree of acetylation less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70%, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, and preferably less than or equal to 15%.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The natural chitosan is a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source, preferably derived from mycelium of an Ascomycete type fungus, and in particular of Aspergillus niger Aspergillus niger ), and / or a Basidiomycete type fungus, and in particular of Lentinula edodes Lentinula edodes ) and / or Agaricus bisporus Agaricus bisporus ); preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The natural chitosan is preferably present in an amount of from 0.01 % to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, or more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The crystallizable fat is chosen from crystallizable fats of animal or plant origin, esters of glycerol and of C12-C24 fatty acids optionally substituted with hydroxyl groups; and copolymers of esterified C12-C24 fatty acids of sorbitol and of C6-C16 fatty acid diacids; preferably from triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of monoesters, diesters and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid, and copolymers of esterified behenic acid of sorbitol and of sebacic acid; preferably from triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid and sunflower wax.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The crystallizable fat is present in a concentration of from 0.01 % to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 12% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 8% by weight, advantageously from 1.5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The weight ratio between the chitosan and the crystallizable fat is from 0.00025 to 300, preferably from 0.001 to 100, preferably from 0.01 to 30, preferably from 0.05 to 10, preferably from 0.1 to 4, preferably from 0.1 to 2, preferably from 0.5 to 2, advantageously from 0.5 to 1.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The pigment colouring material is a mineral pigment chosen from zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or iron oxides or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and iron blues, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminium and copper powder, nacres and monochromatic pigments.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The pigment colouring material is an organic pigment chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The pigment colouring material is chosen from mineral pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the pigment colouring material is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The pigment colouring material is present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; and preferably, at a concentration of 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, of silicone.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is substantially free of silicone other than the film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers; preferably, the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of silicone other than the film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition is completely free of silicone other than the film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers; preferably, the composition according to the application is substantially free of silicone, advantageously, the composition is completely free of silicone.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid, preferably chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, methyl lactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, alepunic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.

17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The physiologically acceptable aqueous medium comprises at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably from 5% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 85% by weight, even more preferentially from 20% to 80% by weight, even more preferentially from 25% to 75% by weight, even more preferentially from 28% to 70% by weight, even more preferentially from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferentially from 35% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; and, optionally, at least one organic solvent miscible in water at 25°C chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof, preferably, the weight ratio between the polyol, when present, and the chitosan is from 0.1 to 6, preferably from 0.1 to 5, preferably from 0.2 to 5, preferably from 0.2 to 4.5, preferably from 0.5 to 2.

18. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one surfactant, preferably a non-ionic surfactant; preferably the concentration of the surfactant is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably the concentration is from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile oil, preferably the concentration of the non-volatile oil is less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 35% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, and preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or wherein the weight ratio between the non-volatile oil and the crystallizable fat is from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.1 to 5, preferably from 0.3 to 3, preferably from 0.5 to 2.

20. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a volatile oil and / or a volatile alcohol.

21. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having a pH less than or equal to 6.3, preferably between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.

3.

22. Cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or the skin appendages, in which, The composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied to the skin and / or the lips and / or the skin appendages.

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