Cosmetic plant powder containing active ingredients of whole peony plants as well as preparation method and application of cosmetic plant powder

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetic raw materials and powder modification, and provides cosmetic plant powder containing peony whole plant active ingredients, a preparation method and application. The core of the invention lies in whole plant utilization and surface functionalization. The preparation method comprises the following steps: firstly, pretreating flowers, branches and leaves, root bark and seed meal of peony to prepare micron-sized base powder; then, a double-stage surface treatment method is adopted: in the first stage, an active functional layer is constructed through active ingredients, and the powder is endowed with skin care effects of resisting oxidation, relieving, whitening and the like; in the second stage, a hydrophobic skin-attaching layer is constructed through hydrophobic and skin-attaching components, so that the stability, hydrophobicity, dispersity and makeup-keeping and darkness-resisting capability of the powder are remarkably improved. The peony plant powder prepared by the method realizes the unification of natural activity and excellent makeup effect, and can be widely applied to various cosmetics such as loose powder, foundation make-up, mask powder and the like.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of cosmetic raw materials and powder modification technology, and specifically relates to a cosmetic plant powder containing active ingredients from the whole peony plant, its preparation method and application. Background Technology

[0002] peony( Paeonia suffruticosa As a traditional medicinal plant, peony root bark (Danpi) is rich in active ingredients such as paeoniflorin and paeonol, and has a mature application system in the fields of anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation, and skin whitening. However, the current industry's utilization of peony resources has significant limitations: about 90% of the industry focuses on root development, while the flowers, leaves, branches, and peony seed meal after oil extraction, which account for more than 60% of the total plant weight, are often regarded as "waste," resulting in a huge waste of bioactive substances.

[0003] Plant-based powders, as functional materials derived from natural sources, have shown unique advantages in the field of cleansing and beauty, attracting much attention. However, existing plant-based powder technologies face four major bottlenecks: Firstly, the functional complexity is insufficient: Traditional plant powders mostly use single components (such as starch and cellulose) as the base material, lacking the complex functional structure of paeoniflorin-paeonol synergistic antioxidant in peony, making it difficult to meet the multi-effect needs of "antioxidant + anti-inflammatory + whitening". Secondly, poor compatibility of the oil phase: The high polarity of the plant powder surface hydroxyl groups (-OH) and the cosmetic oil phase (such as squalane and jojoba oil) have different interfacial tensions, which leads to powder agglomeration (such as poor dispersibility as described in CN116059132B), uneven makeup effect, and affects product stability. Thirdly, stability defects: Natural powders are susceptible to microbial contamination (as CN118845530A points out, starch is prone to bacterial growth) and oxidative discoloration, resulting in a shortened shelf life; Fourth, rough skin feel: Unmodified plant powder has a wide particle size distribution (D50>50μm), a rough surface, poor skin adhesion, and is prone to dullness due to sebum infiltration, resulting in insufficient makeup holding power.

[0004] Existing surface treatment technologies are mostly designed for inorganic powders (such as the silane coupling agent coating of titanium dioxide in CN116059132B), and have poor adaptability to plant powders with complex compositions and irregular structures. For example, although silane coupling agents can improve compatibility, they are non-natural synthetic ingredients, which conflicts with the positioning of "100% natural source" in cleansing and beauty products; while CN119097575B's modification of starch focuses on hair volume and UV protection, which is functionally misaligned with the core needs of skincare and makeup effects.

[0005] Therefore, it is a key technical requirement to break through the industry bottleneck and promote the upgrading of the clean beauty industry to develop a high-value utilization technology based on the whole peony (flowers, leaves, branches, and seed meal), to maximize the retention of active ingredients through a natural and friendly surface treatment process, and to achieve functional compound of powder, improvement of oil phase compatibility, enhancement of microbial stability, and optimization of skin feel. SUMMARY

[0006] To solve the above technical problems, the present application provides a cosmetic plant powder containing active ingredients of the whole peony and its preparation method and application. The plant powder is prepared by combining the active ingredients of the whole peony (including flowers, leaves, branches, and seed meal after oil extraction) and a two-stage natural surface treatment process, achieving three major breakthroughs: in terms of active ingredient retention, the antioxidant components of petals, the paeonol of root bark, and the characteristic active ingredients of seed meal such as oil and protein are maximally retained through gentle processing technology; in terms of functional enhancement, the synergistic combination of ingredients achieves the composite effects of moisturizing, soothing, repairing, whitening, and oil control; in terms of skin feel improvement, the compatibility of powder and cosmetic oil phase is optimized through surface modification treatment, improving dispersibility and enhancing skin adhesion and makeup performance. This technology breaks through the bottleneck of traditional plant powder with single function, poor compatibility, insufficient stability, and rough skin feel, meets the raw material demand of clean beauty for "natural, sustainable, and zero waste", and has significant industrial application value.

[0007] The present application provides a cosmetic plant powder containing active ingredients of the whole peony, which is composed of the following weight parts of raw materials: 40-60 parts of dried peony petals, 10-20 parts of dried peony branches and leaves, 10-20 parts of peony root bark, 10-30 parts of peony seed meal, 1-8 parts of active ingredients, and 2-8 parts of hydrophobic and skin-adhesive ingredients; The active ingredients are selected from any one or more of sodium polyglutamate, oat beta-glucan, nicotinamide, panthenol, licorice extract, or asiaticoside extract; The hydrophobic and skin-adhesive ingredients are selected from any one or more of lauroyl lysine, triethoxysilane, amodimethicone, zinc oxide / hydroxyapatite composite microparticles, titanium dioxide / mica composite microparticles, or hydrogenated lecithin.

[0008] The present application also provides a preparation method of the above-mentioned cosmetic plant powder, comprising the following steps: (1) The petal, branch and leaf, root bark, and seed meal parts of the peony plant are washed, dried at low temperature, and then coarsely pulverized to 60-100 mesh. The coarse powder of each part is ultra-finely pulverized to D50 1-10 μm at a low temperature of-20-10℃; (2) The ultra-finely pulverized powder of each part obtained in (1) is mixed in the formula ratio according to claim 1 to obtain a whole peony base powder; (3) Two-stage surface treatment is performed on the peony whole-plant base powder: The first stage: the peony whole-plant base powder is dispersed in water to form a slurry, and the active ingredient in the amount described in claim 1 is added, and after stirring and reacting at 40-50℃ for 1-2 hours, solid-liquid separation and drying are performed; Through the first-stage active functional layer coating, the skin care active ingredient (such as moisturizing sodium polyglutamate, soothing beta-glucan, whitening niacinamide) is firmly anchored to the powder, and the powder is converted from an inert filler to an "active" powder with multiple skin care effects such as antioxidant, soothing, whitening, etc.

[0009] The second stage: the peony whole-plant base powder treated in the first stage is placed in a high-speed mixer, and the hydrophobic and skin-adhesive ingredient in the amount described in claim 1 is added, and stirring is performed at 50-60℃ and 30-60r / min for 30-60 minutes; After drying and sterilization, a cosmetic plant powder is obtained.

[0010] Preferably, in (1), the rough powder of each part is ultra-finely pulverized to D50 2-5μm.

[0011] Preferably, in (3), the mass-volume ratio of peony whole-plant base powder to water in the first stage is 1kg:(4-6)L.

[0012] The above-mentioned cosmetic plant powder is also an important protection content of the present application.

[0013] Among them, the base makeup product is any one or more of loose powder, powder, powder cake, and foundation; the skin care product is mask powder or mud mask; and the body care product is talcum powder or antiperspirant powder.

[0014] Specifically, it also includes a cosmetic composition comprising the above-mentioned cosmetic plant powder and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0015] The present application has the following advantages and effects relative to the prior art: (1) The present application systematically matches the flowers, leaves, roots, and meal of peony, and maximizes the retention of antioxidant components of petals, paeonol of root bark, and characteristic active ingredients such as oil and protein of seed meal through mild processing technology, realizes zero waste and high-value utilization of peony resources, and synergistic effect of active ingredients in each part. (2) In the functional enhancement layer, through the first stage of active functional layer coating process, the skin care active ingredients (such as moisturizing agent sodium polyglutamate, soothing agent beta-glucan, whitening agent niacinamide) are firmly anchored on the surface of the powder, so that the powder is transformed from a traditional inert filler into an "active" powder with multiple skin care functions such as antioxidant, soothing, whitening, etc. Through the second stage of hydrophobic skin layer construction, the contact angle of the powder to water is increased to more than 115°, forming excellent anti-sweat and water resistance. Its hydrophobicity can effectively resist sebum infiltration. Experimental verification shows that its anti-dull performance (4-hour color difference △E <3.8) is significantly better than that of untreated powder and single-stage treatment control group. (3) The product of the present application optimizes the compatibility of the powder with the oil phase of the cosmetic through surface modification treatment, improves the dispersibility and enhances the skin-friendly makeup performance. The treated powder shows a smooth and dense microstructure under scanning electron microscope, and the sensory evaluation is 93% in the excellent evaluation rate. In terms of physical properties, the repose angle is low, the flowability is good, and the spreading is uniform, which can effectively fill fine lines. In terms of stability, the double-stage treatment layer forms a physical isolation barrier, delaying the oxidative degradation of the powder itself and the active ingredients carried by it. Accelerated stability test confirms that the color index and microbial index remain stable. In terms of safety, the treatment agent is preferably natural or derived from nature, and the whole process avoids the use of harmful solvents and non-compliant raw materials. Cytotoxicity test verifies its high safety, which fully meets the core needs of modern cosmetics for natural and safe. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0016] Figure 1 The flow chart of the preparation process of the present application is shown. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0017] In order to make those skilled in the art better understand the present application, the present application will be further described in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0018] Example 1 A preparation method of a cosmetic plant powder containing active ingredients of whole peony plant, the steps are as follows: (1) The petal, branch and leaf, root bark and seed meal parts of the peony plant are respectively cleaned, dried at low temperature to a moisture content of ≤10%, and then each part is coarsely powdered to 80 mesh with a universal pulverizer. At-10℃, each part of the coarse powder is ultra-finely pulverized to D50=3.2μm by using a super-speed airflow pulverizer; (2) The ultra-fine powders of each part obtained in (1) are mixed in the following formula ratio to obtain a peony whole plant base powder; 500g of dried peony petals, 150g of dried peony branches and leaves, 150g of peony root bark, and 200g of peony seed meal; (3) Double-stage surface treatment is performed on the peony whole plant base powder: First stage: 1 kg of peony whole plant base powder is dispersed in 5 L of water to form a slurry, 15 g of active ingredient sodium polyglutamate, 10 g of oat beta-glucan, and 10 g of nicotinamide are added, and after stirring at 45°C for 1.5 hours, solid-liquid separation and spray drying are performed; Second stage: the peony whole plant base powder treated in the first stage is placed in a high-speed mixer, and 20 g of hydrophobic and skin-adhesive component lauroyl lysine, 10 g of triethoxysilane, and 8 g of zinc oxide / hydroxyapatite composite microparticles are sprayed in, and stirring is performed at 55°C and 45 r / min for 45 minutes; After the powder is freeze-dried, it is sterilized under the condition of an ozone concentration of 50 mg / m³ for 240 minutes, packaged, and a cosmetic plant powder containing active ingredients of peony whole plants is obtained.

[0019] Example 2 The difference from the preparation method in Example 1 is: (1) In the above, each part of the coarse powder is crushed to 60 mesh with a universal crusher, and the ultrafine powder is obtained by using a super-speed airflow crusher at a low temperature of-20°C, with D50=2 μm; (2) In the above, the formula ratio is 40 parts of dried peony petals, 20 parts of dried peony branches and leaves, 10 parts of peony root bark, and 30 parts of peony seed meal; (3) In the above, the first stage: 1 kg of peony whole plant base powder is dispersed in 4 L of water to form a slurry, 5 g of ubiquinol, 2 g of glycyrrhiza extract, and 3 g of gynostemma pentaphyllum extract are added, and after stirring at 40°C for 2 hours, solid-liquid separation and spray drying are performed; Second stage: the peony whole plant base powder treated in the first stage is placed in a high-speed mixer, and 10 g of hydrophobic and skin-adhesive component lauroyl lysine, 10 g of diethoxysilane, and 10 g of titanium dioxide / mica composite microparticles or hydrogenated lecithin are sprayed in, and stirring is performed at 50°C and 60 r / min for 60 minutes; After the powder is freeze-dried, it is sterilized under the condition of γ-irradiation sterilization, packaged, and a cosmetic plant powder containing active ingredients of peony whole plants is obtained.

[0020] Example 3 The difference from the preparation method in Example 1 is: (1) In the above, each part of the coarse powder is crushed to 100 mesh with a universal crusher, and the ultrafine powder is obtained by using a super-speed airflow crusher at a low temperature of 10°C, with D50=5 μm; (2) In the above, the formula ratio is 60 parts of dried peony petals, 10 parts of dried peony branches and leaves, 20 parts of peony root bark, and 10 parts of peony seed meal; (3) In the step (3), 1 kg of the peony whole plant base powder was dispersed in 6 L of water to form a slurry, 20 g of active ingredient sodium polyglutamate, 25 g of oat beta-glucan, and 35 g of nicotinamide were added, and after stirring and reacting at 50°C for 1 hour, solid-liquid separation and spray drying were performed; The second stage: the peony whole plant base powder treated in the first stage was placed in a high-speed mixer, and 40 g of hydrophobic and skin-adhesive component, i.e., amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, 40 g of titanium dioxide / mica composite microparticles, or hydrogenated lecithin was sprayed, and stirring was performed at 60°C and 30 r / min for 30 minutes.

[0021] Example 4: Product efficacy evaluation 4.1 Design of experiment To prove the necessity of the synergistic effect of the "whole plant compatibility" and "two-stage treatment" of the present application, the following comparative groups were set up: The inventive group: the peony whole plant two-stage treatment powder prepared in Example 1.

[0022] Comparative Example A (untreated group): only the mixed peony whole plant base powder of steps (1) and (2) was prepared, without any surface treatment.

[0023] Comparative Example B (single-stage treatment-active layer only): the peony whole plant base powder was only treated by the first stage (active functional layer).

[0024] Comparative Example C (single-stage treatment-hydrophobic layer only): the peony whole plant base powder was only treated by the second stage (hydrophobic skin-adhesive layer).

[0025] Comparative Example D (commercially available control): a commonly used plant powder (such as ordinary corn starch or talc) on the market.

[0026] Comparative Example E (single part group): only the peony root bark component was used, and the remaining steps were the same as in Example 1.

[0027] 4.2 Test results and data analysis Table 1 Basic physical and interface properties Test item Test method / standard Inventive group Comparative example A (untreated) Comparative example B (active layer only) Comparative example C (hydrophobic layer only) Comparative example D (commercially available) Particle size distribution D50 (pm) ISO 13320:2020 3.2 3.5 3.3 3.4 12.5 Particle size distribution D90 (pm) ISO 13320:2020 6.5 12.8 7.1 6.8 25.3 Resting angle (°) GBT 16913-2008 38.5 52.1 45.3 40.2 48.7 Water contact angle (°) Droplet method 118 0 (completely wetted) 15 125 0 (completely wetted) Artificial sweat contact angle (°) Droplet method 110 0 (completely wetted) 10 112 0 (completely wetted) Oil absorption value (mL / 100g) AACC 56-30.01 125 85 95 130 75 As can be seen from the data in Table 1, the synergistic effect of the two-stage treatment: the inventive group maintains a fine particle size while achieving a very high hydrophobic angle (> 110°) and excellent oil absorption capacity. Comparative Example B (active layer only) has almost no hydrophobicity, proving that the active layer is hydrophilic; Comparative Example C (hydrophobic layer only) has strong hydrophobicity, but lacks active function, and the present application successfully integrates both.

[0028] Excellent flowability: the inventive group has the lowest rest angle, proving that it has the best flowability and spreadability.

[0029] Table 2 Makeup holding and stability properties Test item Test method / standard Inventive group Comparative example A (untreated) Comparative example B (active layer only) Comparative example C (hydrophobic layer only) Comparative example D (commercially available) Anti-dullness (color difference △E after 4h) Coated on PMM plate, artificial sebum was added dropwise, and color difference meter was used for determination 3.5 7.2 6.8 4.1 8.5 Water resistance (makeup retention rate%) After water spray test, the residual amount of powder on PMM plate was determined 95% 10% 15% 92% 5% Accelerated stability (45°C / 75%RH, 30 days, △E) CIELAB color system <1.5 >5.0 <1.8 <1.5 >4.5 Microbial challenge test (total number of colonies CFU / g) 14 days after initial contamination <10 >1000 <10 <10 >1000 From the data in Table 2, it can be seen that the present application has excellent makeup holding and anti-dullness: the ΔE value of the present application group is the lowest, significantly better than the untreated and active layer only groups, proving that the hydrophobic layer is the key to anti-dullness. It has excellent water resistance, ensuring long-lasting makeup.

[0030] High stability: the color of the treated powder is stable, and the hydrophobic layer effectively blocks moisture, inhibiting microbial growth.

[0031] Table 3 Biological activity and skin care efficacy Test item Test method / standard Inventive group Comparative example A (untreated) Comparative example B (active layer only) Comparative example C (hydrophobic layer only) Comparative example E (only phloretin) DPPH free radical scavenging rate (%) In vitro chemical method 85% 20% 80% 25% 55% Cellular level antioxidant (ROS inhibition rate%) Human keratinocytes 75% 18% 70% 20% 45% Inflammatory factor IL-1a inhibition rate (%) Cell ELISA method 40% 10% 38% 12% 22% In vitro moisturizing rate (after 4h) Artificial skin, corneometer 25% 8% 22% 9% 15% From the data in Table 3, it can be seen that the active layer effectively delivers: both the present application group and the comparative example B (active layer only) exhibit strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing activity, proving that the first stage treatment successfully fixes the active ingredients and makes them available for effective release.

[0032] Synergistic advantage of whole plant compatibility: the various activity indicators of the present application group (whole plant) are significantly higher than those of comparative example E (only root bark), proving the scientificity and necessity of whole plant compatibility, producing a synergistic effect of "1+1>2".

[0033] Table 4 Skin feel sensory evaluation (30 people double-blind test, score 1-10) Evaluation dimensions Inventive group Comparative example A (untreated) Comparative example D (commercially available) Smoothness 9.5 6 7.5 Silky feel 9.3 5.5 8 Skin adhesion 9.6 6.2 7.8 Fresh feeling (not sticky) 9.4 4.5 8.5 Overall preference rate 96.70% 10.00% 36.70% From the data in Table 4, it can be seen that the cosmetic plant powder of the present application is significantly better than the untreated peony powder and the commercially available ordinary plant powder in various skin feel sensory evaluation indicators, and has obtained the overwhelming overall preference of the testers.

[0034] The above are only preferred embodiments of the present application, and do not limit the patent scope of the present application, and any equivalent changes and modifications made within the scope of the present application shall still fall within the scope of the present application.

Claims

1.A cosmetic plant powder containing active ingredients of a whole plant of Paeonia suffruticosa, comprising the following raw materials by weight: 40-60 parts of dried petals of Paeonia suffruticosa, 10-20 parts of dried branches and leaves of Paeonia suffruticosa, 10-20 parts of root bark of Paeonia suffruticosa, 10-30 parts of Paeonia suffruticosa seed meal, 1-8 parts of active ingredients, and 2-8 parts of hydrophobic and skin-adhesive ingredients; wherein the active ingredients are selected from any one or more of sodium polyglutamate, oat beta-glucan, nicotinamide, panthenol, licorice extract, or asiaticoside; and the hydrophobic and skin-adhesive ingredients are selected from any one or more of lauroyl lysine, triethoxysilane, amodimethicone, zinc oxide / hydroxyapatite composite microparticles, titanium dioxide / mica composite microparticles, or hydrogenated lecithin. 2.A method for preparing a cosmetic plant powder containing active ingredients of a whole plant of Paeonia suffruticosa, comprising the following steps: (1) washing, low-temperature drying, and coarsely pulverizing the petal, branch and leaf, root bark, and seed meal parts of the Paeonia suffruticosa plant to 60-100 mesh, and then ultra-micropulverizing the coarsely pulverized parts to D50 1-10 μm at a low temperature of-20-10℃; (2) mixing the ultra-micropowders obtained in (1) in the proportions specified in claim 1 to obtain a Paeonia suffruticosa whole plant base powder; (3) performing two-stage surface treatment on the Paeonia suffruticosa whole plant base powder: first stage: dispersing the Paeonia suffruticosa whole plant base powder in water to form a slurry, adding the active ingredients in the amounts specified in claim 1, stirring and reacting at 40-50℃ for 1-2 hours, and then performing solid-liquid separation and drying; second stage: placing the Paeonia suffruticosa whole plant base powder treated in the first stage in a high-speed mixer, adding the hydrophobic and skin-adhesive ingredients in the amounts specified in claim 1, and stirring at 50-60℃ and 30-60 r / min for 30-60 minutes; and then drying and sterilizing to obtain the cosmetic plant powder. In (1), the coarsely pulverized parts are ultra-micropulverized to D50 2-5 μm. In (3), the mass-volume ratio of the Paeonia suffruticosa whole plant base powder to water in the first stage is 1 kg: (4-6) L. 5.Use of the cosmetic plant powder of claim 1 or obtained by the method of any one of claims 2-5 in the preparation of a cosmetic product. The cosmetic product is a base makeup product, a skin care product, or a body care product; wherein the base makeup product is any one or more of a loose powder, a powder foundation, a pressed powder, or a foundation; the skin care product is a mask powder or a mud mask; and the body care product is a body powder or an antiperspirant powder. The cosmetic product comprises the cosmetic plant powder as specified in claim 1 and a cosmetically acceptable carrier. ​ ​ ​ ​ 3. The production method as claimed in claim 2, characterized in that, ​ 4. The production method as claimed in claim 2, characterized in that, ​ ​ 6. The use according to claim 5, wherein the compound is ###0002### ​ ​ 7. A cosmetic composition characterized in that, ​

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