Talcum-free and free mica-free compacted powder based on perlite, at least one spherical filler, non-volatile oil, amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer and particulate dye

Abstract

The present invention relates to a compacted powder comprising at least: a) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil; and b) a powdered phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said powdered phase comprising at least: i) perlite; and ii) at least one spherical filler selected from the group consisting of mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; and iii) at least one particulate colorant; and c) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer; and d) at least one pigment; the composition is free of talc particles or mica particles in free form and is obtainable via a process comprising the steps of: 1) mixing the oil phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, the powdered phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and 2) injecting the slurry into a container and shaping it by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid composition in the form of a compacted powder, the solid composition particularly containing a physiologically acceptable medium, particularly for coating keratin materials, and more particularly for cosmetic and / or care of keratin materials (such as skin), said compacted powder being prepared via a wet process.

[0002] Skin care and / or cosmetic compositions are often used to give skin (such as the face) an attractive color, and also to conceal skin imperfections (such as redness, marks, wrinkles and fine lines).

[0003] The primary functions of these powders are to impart color, a matte finish, and, for those specifically designed for use on the face, to enhance the staying power of foundation or, when used alone, to provide coverage (foundation powder, eyeshadow, face powder). These properties are particularly appreciated by users for their lightness, softness, non-stickiness, and non-greasy feel.

[0004] Generally, these compositions typically combine a predominantly powdered phase with a binder phase that is usually characterized by a liquid fatty phase. The powdered phase is essentially formed by fillers combined with pigments, the amounts of which are modified to provide the desired cosmetic effect, typically a coloring effect.

[0005] To obtain a composition in solid, compacted form, it is known from the prior art to use compacted cosmetic powder formed from a mixture of powder and fatty binder, for example by compression molding.

[0006] However, these compacted powders are particularly prone to breakage. Therefore, as the percentage of pigment in the product increases, its manufacturing and compaction become complex, or even impossible to perform at an industrial level due to quality and productivity requirements. Furthermore, the large amount of powdery phase in compacted powders does not impart satisfactory sensory properties when the powder is picked up from its packaging and / or when applied to the skin surface to be coated. Additionally, it is difficult for formulation designers to obtain products with good staying power on the skin. To overcome these drawbacks, if the amount of fatty binder is increased, the composition tends to become waxy, that is, harden to the point that it cannot be picked up during use.

[0007] Among the qualities desired for compacted cosmetic powders, the following can be mentioned:

[0008] - Good cohesiveness and homogenization of the composition,

[0009] - Good compaction strength,

[0010] - Good texture,

[0011] - Suitable hardness,

[0012] - Good adhesion to the skin,

[0013] - Good absorption, regardless of the applicator (as far as the product quantity is sufficient).

[0014] - Comfortable to apply; no drying effect on the skin.

[0015] - The powder has good durability properties.

[0016] - Excellent sensory properties when dipped

[0017] - Good sensory properties when the product is applied.

[0018] The practice known from the prior art for manufacturing such compositions involves using volatile organic solvents (isododecane or isopropanol) employed in wet preparation methods (referred to as wet processes) to inject one or more given foundation powders into a corresponding cup. These solvents allow the powder to fluidize and form a “slurry” and its shaping within the cup, and then evaporate it.

[0019] The compacted powder obtained by this wet process has been proposed in patent EP 2928448 B1; the powder comprises:

[0020] - Oil phase, the amount of which is greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0021] - A powdered phase, which accounts for more than or equal to 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition, the powdered phase comprising at least one spherical filler and at least one layered filler; the spherical filler and the layered filler are present in corresponding total weight contents such that the weight ratio of the spherical filler to the layered filler is greater than or equal to 0.01, preferably between 0.02 and 15.

[0022] Patent application EP 3595620 also discloses a compacted powder containing at least:

[0023] - An oil phase, comprising at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said oil phase comprising at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil; and

[0024] - A powdered phase, comprising at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the powdered phase contains at least mica particles; and

[0025] - At least one amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, said composition being free of untreated silicone talc particles and obtainable via a wet preparation method comprising at least the following steps:

[0026] (i) Mixing an oil phase, an amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, a powdered phase, and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and

[0027] (ii) The slurry is injected into a container (cup or mold) and shaped by compaction, particularly pressing and / or suction, to obtain a composition in powder form.

[0028] These compositions obtained via wet processing contain a significant amount of layered filler comprising mica and talc in free form to maintain good injectability during production and to achieve satisfactory product deposits, cohesion, and impact strength after evaporation of the volatile solvent. The presence of the combination of talc and mica in free form tends to produce compacted powders with a glossy or satin finish. During its research, the applicant found that reducing or removing talc and / or mica in free form from these compacted powders to achieve a matte finish affected the deposition, cohesion, and / or sensory properties.

[0029] There is still a need to find novel compacted powders that are free of talc and free of mica obtained by wet processes. These novel compacted powders not only have good injectability in wet production methods, but also have good product deposition, good cohesiveness, good matte finish and good sensory properties after evaporation of volatile solvents.

[0030] The applicant has unexpectedly discovered that these objectives can be achieved using a solid composition in the form of a compacted powder, the solid composition specifically containing a physiologically acceptable medium and at least:

[0031] a) An oil phase, in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said oil phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil; and

[0032] b) A powdered phase, comprising at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the powdered phase comprises at least:

[0033] i) Perlite; and

[0034] ii) At least one spherical packing material selected from mineral packing materials, naturally derived organic packing materials, and mixtures thereof; and

[0035] iii) at least one granular colorant; and

[0036] c) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer; and

[0037] d) At least one pigment; the composition is free of talc particles or mica particles in free form, and the composition is obtainable by a wet preparation method comprising at least the following steps:

[0038] 1) Mixing an oil phase, an amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, a powdered phase, and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and

[0039] 2) The slurry is injected into a container and shaped by compaction, particularly pressing and / or suction, to obtain a composition in the form of compacted powder.

[0040] This discovery forms the basis of this invention. Summary of the Invention

[0041] Therefore, the first subject of the present invention is a solid composition in the form of a compacted powder, which in particular contains a physiologically acceptable medium and at least contains:

[0042] a) An oil phase, comprising at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said oil phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil; and

[0043] b) A powdered phase, comprising at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the powdered phase comprises at least:

[0044] i) Perlite; and

[0045] ii) At least one spherical packing material selected from mineral packing materials, naturally derived organic packing materials, and mixtures thereof; and

[0046] iii) at least one granular colorant; and

[0047] c) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer; and

[0048] d) At least one pigment; the composition is free of talc particles or mica particles in free form, and the composition is obtainable by a wet preparation method comprising at least the following steps:

[0049] 1) Mixing an oil phase, an amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, a powdered phase, and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and

[0050] 2) The slurry is injected into a container and shaped by compaction, particularly pressing and / or suction, to obtain a composition in the form of compacted powder.

[0051] A second subject of the invention is a method for coating keratin materials, particularly skin, and more particularly a method for applying cosmetics and / or care to said keratin materials, the method comprising applying to them a composition as defined above.

[0052] definition

[0053] In the context of this invention, the term "keratin material" specifically refers to skin (face, cheek, eyelids).

[0054] The term “physiologically acceptable” should be understood to mean that it is compatible with skin and / or its coverings, exhibits a pleasant color, smell and feel, and does not cause unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness) that would easily discourage consumers from using the composition.

[0055] The term "talc particles" refers to particles with the molecular formula Mg3Si4O. 10 Hydroxylated magnesium silicate particles of (OH)2 are called talc and belong to the chemical family of foli silicates. The talc particles can be untreated or surface-treated, i.e., uncoated or surface-coated, for example, by surface treatment agents selected from silicones, amino acids, fluorine derivatives, or any other substances that promote the dispersibility and compatibility of fillers in the composition.

[0056] Mica is the name of a mineral family belonging to the silicate class, specifically the phyllosilicate subclass, primarily composed of potassium aluminosilicate. It is characterized by its layered structure (phyllosilicate), which most frequently imparts shape and metallic luster to thin sheets.

[0057] The term "mica in free form" should be understood to mean any natural or synthetic mica that is not bonded to one or more compounds in the composite material structure, such as pearlescent agents containing mica as a substrate coated with metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or tin oxide.

[0058] The term "composition without talc particles" means any composition containing less than 1.0%, or even less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.1% of talc particles by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or containing no talc particles.

[0059] The term "composition free of mica particles in free form" should be understood to mean any composition containing less than 1.0%, or even less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.1% of mica particles in free form by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or containing no mica particles in free form.

[0060] For the purposes of this invention, the following definitions apply:

[0061] - "Solid" means the state of the composition at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e., a highly viscous composition that retains its form during storage. In contrast, it is a "fluid" composition that does not flow under its own weight. Advantageously, it is characterized by the hardness defined below.

[0062] - "Compacted powder" means a product block whose cohesiveness is at least partially provided by compaction or preferably pressing during the manufacturing process. Specifically, by measurement using a TA.XT.plusTexture Analyser® texture analyzer sold by Stable Micro Systems, the compacted powder according to the invention can advantageously have a pressure resistance between 0.1 and 1 kg, and particularly between 0.2 and 0.8 kg, relative to the surface area of ​​the spindle used (7.07 mm² in this case). This resistance is measured by moving an SMS P / 3 flat-headed cylindrical spindle in contact with the powder at a distance of 2 mm and a speed of 0.5 mm / s; more generally, this powder can be obtained by compaction or preferably pressing.

[0063] The compositions according to the invention advantageously contain a solids content of 95% or more, preferably 98%, or even 100%.

[0064] For the purposes of this invention, the term "solid content" refers to the content of non-volatile substances.

[0065] The amount of solids content (abbreviated as SC) of the compositions according to the invention was measured using a commercial halogen dryer from Mettler Toledo, the Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR 73®. This measurement is based on the weight loss of the sample after halogen heating and drying, and therefore represents the percentage of residue once water and volatile substances have evaporated. This technique is fully described in the machine documentation provided by Mettler Toledo.

[0066] The measurement plan is as follows:

[0067] Approximately 2 g of the composition (hereinafter referred to as the sample) was spread on a metal crucible, which was then placed in the aforementioned halogen desiccator. The sample was then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight was obtained. The wet mass of the sample (corresponding to its initial mass) and the dry mass of the sample (corresponding to its mass after halogen heating) were measured using a precision balance.

[0068] The experimental error associated with the measurement is on the order of plus or minus 2%. The solid content is calculated as follows:

[0069]

[0070] powder phase

[0071] The powdered phase contains at least:

[0072] i) Perlite; and

[0073] ii) at least one spherical packing material selected from mineral packing materials, naturally sourced organic packing materials; and

[0074] iii) At least one granular colorant.

[0075] The solid composition according to the invention has a powder phase content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly ranging from 50% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 60% to 80% by weight.

[0076] perlite

[0077] The perlite that can be used according to the present invention is typically an aluminosilicate derived from volcanic rock and has the following composition:

[0078] - 70.0%-75.0% by weight of silicon dioxide (SiO2)

[0079] - 12.0%-15.0% by weight of aluminum oxide (Al2O3)

[0080] - 3.0%-5.0% sodium oxide (Na₂O)

[0081] - 3.0%-5.0% potassium oxide (K₂O)

[0082] - 0.5%-2% iron oxide (Fe2O3)

[0083] - 0.2%-0.7% magnesium oxide (MgO)

[0084] - 0.5%-1.5% calcium oxide (CaO)

[0085] - 0.05%-0.15% titanium dioxide (TiO2).

[0086] Preferably, in the first step, the perlite is ground, dried, and then calibrated. The resulting product (referred to as perlite ore) is gray and has a size of approximately 100 µm. The perlite ore is then expanded (1000°C / 2 seconds) to produce 30 more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850°C–900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material evaporates, causing the material to expand relative to its original volume.

[0087] The expanded perlite particles according to the present invention can be obtained by the expansion method described in patent US 5,002,698.

[0088] Preferably, the perlite particles used will be ground; in this case, they are referred to as ground expanded perlite (EMP).

[0089] They preferably have a particle size ranging from 0.5 to 50 µm, and more preferably from 0.5 to 40 µm, as defined by the median diameter D50.

[0090] Preferably, the perlite particles used have a strength ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m³ at 25°C. 3 (Standard DIN53468) and preferably 10 to 300 kg / m 3 The uncompacted apparent density.

[0091] Preferably, perlite sold by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. under the trade name Perlite-M SZ12® is used.

[0092] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises perlite in an amount ranging from 5% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 25% to 35% by weight.

[0093] Spherical packing

[0094] The compositions according to the invention comprise one or more spherical fillers selected from inorganic fillers and organic fillers of natural origin.

[0095] The term "naturally derived organic filler" refers to any filler that is derived from plants and has undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example, through synthetic reactions.

[0096] For the purposes of this invention, the term "filler" should be understood to mean any form of colorless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic solid particles that are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0097] The term "spherical" should be understood to mean that the particle has a sphericity index of less than 1.2, which is the ratio between its maximum diameter and its minimum diameter.

[0098] According to a particular form of the invention, the average diameter of the spherical packing according to the invention can range from 1 to 100 μm, preferably from 1 to 50 μm, particularly less than 30 μm, and more particularly from 1 to 25 μm.

[0099] The term “average diameter” for particles should be understood to mean the average diameter (D[0.5]) of the particle volume obtained using a laser diffraction particle size analyzer (e.g., the Mastersizer 2000® from Malvern).

[0100] The spherical packing material of the present invention can be porous or non-porous, and can be hollow or solid.

[0101] The inorganic spherical filler according to the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of: glass microspheres; silica microspheres, especially amorphous porous silica microspheres; and mixtures thereof.

[0102] In the context of glass microspheres, the following can be mentioned:

[0103] - Those with the following INCI names: glass beads, such as Prizmalite's commercial product P2015SL® (9-11 µm).

[0104] - Hollow microspheres with the following INCI name: calcium aluminum borosilicate, such as Potters' commercial product Luxsil Cosmetic Microspheres® (9-13 μm).

[0105] Examples of spherical particles of amorphous silica include the following commercial products: silica beads SB-150®, SB-300®, or SB 700® from Miyoshi Chemical Co., Ltd., preferably SB 300®; the Sunsphere® or Solasphere® series from Asahi Glass AGC Si-Tech, especially Sunsphere H-51® or also Sunsphere 12L®, Sunsphere H-201®, H-52, and Sunsphere® or Solasphere H-53®; Sunsil 1308® from Sunjin Corporation; Spherica P-1500® from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere® from Fuji Silysia; and the Silica Pearl® and Satinier® series from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more specifically Satinier M13® and Satinier… M16® silica, MSS-500® silica from Kobo, and more specifically MSS-500-20N®, as well as Silica Shells® from Kobo.

[0106] Naturally derived organic spherical fillers can be selected from spherical cellulose beads and / or microcrystalline cellulose in spherical form, and mixtures thereof. The cellulose beads that can be used are not limited to the type of cellulose, such as cellulose I, cellulose II, etc.

[0107] Among cellulose microbeads, the commercial products sold by Daito Co., Ltd. include cellulose beads USF® (4-7 µm), cellulose beads D-10® (< 15 µm), cellulose beads D-30® (< 30 µm), and cellulose beads D-100® (< 100 µm).

[0108] More specifically, the composition comprises at least one spherical filler selected from glass microspheres having the following INCI names: calcium aluminum borosilicate, porous amorphous silica microspheres, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises spherical filler in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight.

[0110] Additional filler

[0111] Depending on a particular form, the composition may contain at least one additional filler.

[0112] In particular, other fillers can be selected from N-(C8-C) 22 Powders of acyl amino acids, boron nitride, magnesium stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0113] In N-(C8-C 22 Among the acyl amino acid powders, N-lauroyl lysine, such as the commercial product Amihope LL® sold by Ajinomoto Co., Ltd., will be preferred.

[0114] Boron nitride

[0115] Boron nitride exists in multiple polymorphic forms:

[0116] - Hexagonal boron nitride (represented as h-BN).

[0117] - Boron nitride in rhombohedral form (denoted as r-BN).

[0118] - Amorphous form of boron nitride (denoted as α-BN).

[0119] - Randomized boron nitride (denoted as t-BN).

[0120] - Cubic boron nitride (denoted as c-BN), and

[0121] - Wurtzite-type hexagonal boron nitride (denoted as w-BN).

[0122] Hexagonal boron nitride (h-BN) has a “hexagonal plate” structure, which is formed by the ABAB-type stacking of BN planes. These BN planes are perfectly superimposed from one plane to another due to the difference in chemical properties of elements B and N.

[0123] According to a particular form of the invention, boron nitride particles having a flake shape and a hexagonal form (representing h-BN) will be used.

[0124] Preferably, the boron nitride particles have an average particle size ranging from 0.1 to 25 µm, more preferably from 0.3 to 15 µm.

[0125] Particle size is determined by a method of distribution through laser scattering, using machines such as the Microtrac® machine from Nikkiso Corporation or the 3042407 16 Mastersizer® machine from Malvern Corporation, specifically by measuring the values ​​of D

[10] , D

[50] , and D

[90] . D

[10] represents the maximum size present at 10% of the particle volume. D

[50] represents the maximum size present at 50% of the particle volume. D

[90] represents the maximum size present at 90% of the particle volume.

[0126] The boron nitride particles according to the present invention can be selected from the following commercial products: RonaFlair Boroneige SQ-6® sold by Merck, SP2® and SP8® sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, and SoftouchBoron Nitride CC6657®, CC6058®, and CC6059® sold by Momentive Performance Materials.

[0127] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises additional filler in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight.

[0128] Residual volatile solvents

[0129] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of residual volatile solvent derived from a wet preparation method relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] Volatile solvents can be selected from water, C2-C4 monohydric alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol, ethers such as dioctyl ether, cyclic or linear volatile silicone oils, and volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as C8-C4... 16 Isoalkane such as isododecane. Preferably, isoalkane such as isododecane will be used.

[0131] oil phase

[0132] The compositions of the present invention comprise an oil phase. This phase is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C-25°C) (in the absence of a structuring agent). It is organic and immiscible with water.

[0133] The oil phase (or fatty phase) of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil and optionally other oils, as well as components soluble or miscible in the oil. It can consist of a single oil or a mixture of several oils.

[0134] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that primarily contains carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic acid functional groups.

[0135] The term "oil" refers to any fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of plant, mineral, or synthetic origin.

[0136] For the purposes of this invention, the term "silicone oil" should be understood to mean an oil containing at least one Si-O group, particularly an organosiloxane.

[0137] Non-volatile oils can be selected from the group consisting of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, non-volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] Other oils can be selected from the group consisting of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] For the purposes of this invention, the term "volatile oil" should be understood to mean any oil that can evaporate within one hour upon contact with skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compounds that are liquid at ambient temperature, and particularly have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, especially in the range of 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and even more particularly in the range of 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0140] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and particularly has a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104), the vapor pressure can be measured by a static method or by an effusion method performed by isothermal thermogravimetric analysis.

[0141] The oil phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0143] As an example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that can be used in this invention, the following can be mentioned:

[0144] - Animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oils, such as fully hydrogenated squalene;

[0145] - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, polyisobutylene (which may be optionally hydrogenated, such as Parleam), or squalane.

[0146] - Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether;

[0147] - Triglycerides, composed of fatty acid esters of glycerol, whose fatty acids can have a range of C4 to C6. 36 And especially C 18 To C 36 The chain length of these oils may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g / mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin oil, zucchini oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, tung oil, passionflower oil, or musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810®, 812®, and 818®;

[0148] - A straight-chain aliphatic hydrocarbon ester of the formula RCOOR', wherein RCOO is a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' is a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearate isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoate, and especially isostearate heptanoate, octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate of alcohols or polyols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, neopentanoates such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoates such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucic acid ester, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl benzyl acid;

[0149] - Polyesters obtained by the condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, particularly polyesters such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this regard, polymers sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer) or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®, may be mentioned in particular.

[0150] - Dialkyl carbonates, where the two alkyl chains may be the same or different, such as dioctyl carbonate sold by Corning under the name Cetiol CC®;

[0151] - Esters of straight-chain fatty acids with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol tetranonanoate.

[0152] - Aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate, C benzoic acid 12 -C 15 Alkyl ester, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, or butyl octyl salicylate,

[0153] - Diol dimers and esters and polyesters of monocarboxylic acids or dicarboxylic acids, such as esters of diol dimers and fatty acids, and esters of diol dimers and dicarboxylic acid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, which are sold by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. and described in patent application US 2004-175 338, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0154] - Fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;

[0155] - Dialkyl carbonates, where the two alkyl chains may be the same or different, such as dioctyl carbonate sold by Corning under the name Cetiol CC®;

[0156] - and its mixtures.

[0157] Non-volatile silicone oil

[0158] As an example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that can be used in this invention, the following can be mentioned:

[0159] - Phenyl silicones, such as phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate; and

[0160] - Polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), which have a thickness of 50 to 500 mm at 25°C. 2 / s (cSt), especially 100 cSt viscosity, such as commercial products sold by Wacker under the name Belsil DM 100®, by Dow Corning under the names Dowsil SH200 Fluid® 100 cSt and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid® 100 CS®;

[0161] - Its mixture.

[0162] Depending on the specific form, non-volatile oils are selected from those with a viscosity range of 50 to 500 mm at 25°C. 2 / s of polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, and benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters and mixtures thereof.

[0163] According to a particular form, the non-volatile oil is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] Other volatile oils

[0165] The composition according to the invention may further contain at least one volatile oil in an amount of less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight.

[0166] In particular, the volatile oil present in the compositions of the present invention is residual and derived from the wet process used to produce the compositions.

[0167] Volatile oils may be selected from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils and siloxane volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] As an example of a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that can be used in this invention, one can mention such a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially petroleum-derived C8-C... 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and isohexadecane, such as oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C... 16 Esters, isohexyl neopentyl esters, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold by Shell under the name ShellSolt, may also be used; volatile straight-chain alkanes, such as those from Corning, as described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457.

[0169] As volatile silicone oils, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils can be mentioned, especially those with ≤ 8 centipoise (8mm) 2 The viscosity of these silicones is ( / s), and particularly those having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in this invention, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, may be mentioned in particular.

[0170] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises isododecane in an amount of less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymers

[0172] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, preferably a block copolymer soluble or dispersible in an oil phase.

[0173] Therefore, this copolymer can be used as a gelling agent for this oil phase.

[0174] Hydrocarbon-based block copolymers can be, in particular, diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymers, or mixtures thereof.

[0175] Such hydrocarbon-based block copolymers are described in patent application US-A-2002 / 005 562 and patent US-A-5 221 534.

[0176] The copolymer may exhibit at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20°C, more preferably less than or equal to 0°C, more preferably less than or equal to -20°C, and even more preferably less than or equal to -40°C. The glass transition temperature of the block may be between -150°C and 20°C, particularly between -100°C and 0°C.

[0177] The hydrocarbon-based block copolymers present in the compositions according to the invention are preferably amorphous copolymers formed by the polymerization of olefins. The olefins can be, in particular, olefinic unsaturated monomers.

[0178] Examples of olefins may be mentioned, particularly olefinic carbide monomers having one or two degrees of olefinic unsaturation and having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene.

[0179] Advantageously, hydrocarbon-based block copolymers are amorphous block copolymers of styrene and olefins.

[0180] Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising a unit selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butene and isoprene or mixtures thereof.

[0181] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is hydrogenated in order to reduce the residual olefinic unsaturation after monomer polymerization.

[0182] In particular, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an optionally hydrogenated copolymer containing styrene blocks and ethylene / C3-C4 alkylene blocks.

[0183] As preferred hydrogenated diblock copolymers, styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, or styrene-ethylene / butene copolymers may be mentioned. Diblock polymers are particularly marketed by Kraton Polymers under the name Kraton® G1701E.

[0184] As preferred hydrogenated triblock copolymers, styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, or styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers may be mentioned. Triblock polymers are particularly marketed by Kraton Polymers under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® G1657®, Kraton® D1101, Kraton® D1102, and Kraton® D1160.

[0185] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is a hydrogenated styrene-ethylene / butene-styrene triblock copolymer having the following INCI name: hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer, such as the commercial product Ellamera TER-SET 503® sold by Kraton Polymers.

[0186] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an active substance of a hydrocarbon-based block copolymer in an amount of 0.5% to 5% by weight and more preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] Granular colorant

[0188] The granular colorant according to the present invention is preferably selected from pigments, pearlescent agents, reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.

[0189] The composition according to the invention may contain a granular colorant in a total amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] pigment

[0191] The term “pigment” should be understood to mean any shape of white or colored mineral or organic particles that are soluble in physiological media and intended to color a composition.

[0192] Pigments can be white or colored, and can be mineral and / or organic.

[0193] Among mineral pigments, one may mention titanium dioxide (optionally surface-treated), zirconium oxide or cerium dioxide, as well as zinc oxide, (black, yellow or red) iron oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate and iron blue, and metal powders (such as aluminum powder and copper powder).

[0194] Organic pigments can be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof:

[0195] - Cochineal

[0196] - Organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, xanthan dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes, or fluorane dyes.

[0197] Among organic pigments, those certified by D&C and known by the following names are particularly noteworthy: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, and D&C Red. No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.

[0198] The chemical materials corresponding to each of the previously mentioned organic dyes are mentioned in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (1997 edition), published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, pp. 371-386 and 524-528, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0199] Pigments selected from the following will be preferred.

[0200] - Titanium dioxide (CI 77891), such as the commercial product Hombitan FFPharma® sold by Venator.

[0201] - Red iron oxide (CI 77491), such as the commercial product Sunpuro RedIron oxide C33-8001® sold by Sun Microsystems.

[0202] - Yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), such as the commercial product Sunpuro Yellow Ironoxide C33-9001® sold by Sunpuro Corporation.

[0203] - Black iron oxide (CI 77499), such as the commercial product Sunpuro Black Ironoxide C33-7001® sold by Sunpuro Corporation, and

[0204] - Mixtures thereof, such as the mixture of red and black iron oxide sold by Sensient under the trade name Unipure Red LC 383®.

[0205] pearlescent agent

[0206] The term “pearlite” should be understood to mean any form of colored particles (which may or may not be iridescent), especially those produced by certain mollusks within their shells, or alternatively synthetic, and which have a coloring effect via optical interference.

[0207] Examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned include pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. These pearlescent agents may also be mica particles with at least two layers of metal oxide and / or organic dye layer superimposed on their surface in sequence.

[0208] Pearlescent agents can be more specifically characterized by yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, green, blue, purple and / or copper or glitter.

[0209] Examples of pearlescent agents that can be introduced into a composition include, in particular, gold pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the names Brilliant Gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), SparkleGold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite), and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze pearlescent agents marketed by Merck under the names Bronze Fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona), and by Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); and bronze pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the names Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR® 101 (Cosmica), and by Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte. Orange® (17449) (Microna) orange pearlescent agent; particularly, brown pearlescent agents sold by Engelhard under the names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); particularly, pearlescent agents with copper shimmer sold by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); particularly, pearlescent agents with red shimmer sold by Merck under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); particularly, pearlescent agents with yellow shimmer sold by Engelhard under the name Yellow® (4502) (Chromalite); particularly, red pearlescent agents with gold shimmer sold by Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); particularly, pink pearlescent agents sold by Engelhard under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone); particularly, pearlescent agents sold by Engelhard under the name Nu Antique Black pearlescent agents with a golden shimmer sold by Bronze 240 AB® (Timica); particularly blue pearlescent agents sold by Merck under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna); particularly white pearlescent agents with a silver shimmer sold by Merck under the name Xirona Silver®; and particularly golden-green and pink-orange pearlescent agents sold by Merck under the name IndianSummer® (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

[0210] As another example of a pearlescent agent, particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium dioxide can also be mentioned.

[0211] The particles having a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are particularly sold by Toyal Co., Ltd. under the name Metashine MC1080RY®.

[0212] Finally, among the examples of pearlescent agents that may also be mentioned, polyethylene terephthalate flakes, particularly those marketed by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004®, can be cited.

[0213] The composition according to the invention may contain a pearlescent agent content ranging from 0% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] Emulsified nonionic surfactants

[0215] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsified nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

[0216] For the purposes of this invention, the term "emulsifying surfactant" should be understood to mean an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is, a compound exhibiting two parts with different polarities. Generally, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other part is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value, which is the ratio of the hydrophilic portion to the lipophilic portion in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For nonionic emulsifying surfactants that can be used according to this invention, the HLB range will generally be from 3 to 8. The HLB of the surfactants used according to this invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0217] The emulsifier may be present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, particularly from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] The surfactants preferably used in the compositions according to the invention are selected from:

[0219] - Sugar esters and ethers, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitol stearate, sorbitol monoisostearate, sorbitol tristearate, sorbitol oleate, sorbitol sesquioleate, methylglucose isostearate, sucrose (poly)palmitoyl stearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose trisorheate, sucrose oleate, sucrose distearate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose laurate and sucrose hexasorheate, and mixtures thereof, such as Arlatone 2121® sold by ICI or Span 65V® from Uniqema;

[0220] - Fatty acids, especially C8-C 24 Fatty acids, and preferably C 16 -C 22 Esters of fatty acids with polyols, especially glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate (e.g., sold by Goldschmidt under the name Tegin M®), polyglycerol diisostearate, polyglycerol isostearate, polyglycerol monostearate, diglycerol tetraisostearate, polyethylene glycol diisostearate, polyglycerol-10 pentastearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl laurate (e.g., sold by Hüls under the name Imwitor 312®), diethylene glycol (di)laurate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, decaglyceryl pentadiisostearate, glyceryl decanoate / caprylate, polyglycerol-2 (iso)stearate, and glyceryl (poly)ricinoleate;

[0221] - Oxyalkylene-substituted alcohols, particularly oxyethylene- and / or oxypropylene-substituted alcohols that may contain 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, especially ethoxylated C8-C 24 And C is preferred 12 -C 18 Fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol (CTFA name: stearyl alcohol polyether-2) ethoxylated with two oxyethylidene units (such as Brij 72® sold by Likima), or oxyethylated oleyl alcohol;

[0222] - Fatty alcohols, such as cetearyl alcohol;

[0223] - Oxyethylated and / or propylated silicone compounds having, for example, 3 to 20 oxyalkylene units, and in particular oxyethylated and / or propylated elastomeric or non-elastomeric polydimethylsiloxanes; and mixtures thereof.

[0224] Depending on the specific form, emulsified nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than or equal to 8 are sorbitol isostearates with the following INCI name: sorbitol isostearates, such as the commercial product Span® 120 sold by Croda.

[0225] Preparation method (wet process)

[0226] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is obtained by a wet process comprising the following steps:

[0227] - Mix an oil phase, an amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, a powdered phase, and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry;

[0228] - The slurry is injected into a container and then shaped in the container by compaction, particularly pressing and / or suction, to obtain the final compacted powder.

[0229] Preferably, a step of drying the slurry molded in the container is also performed.

[0230] Mixing steps

[0231] In this step, the components of the oil phase, the components of the powdered phase, and the volatile solvent are mixed to prepare a slurry, which is a thick suspension of the powdered material in a liquid formed by the oil phase and the volatile solvent.

[0232] According to the first variation, the powdered phase components and the oil phase components are premixed, and then in the second step, a volatile solvent is added to the resulting mixture.

[0233] According to the second variation, the components of the oil phase and the volatile solvent are premixed, and then in the second step, the components of the powdered phase are added to the resulting mixture.

[0234] According to a particular form of the invention, the amount of oil phase and the amount of powdered phase are such that the oil phase / powdered phase weight ratio ranges from 20 / 80 to 45 / 55, preferably from 25 / 75 to 40 / 60.

[0235] The volatile organic solvent may be selected from water, C2-C4 monohydric alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol, ethers such as dioctyl ether, cyclic or linear volatile silicone oils, and hydrocarbons such as isoparaffins such as isododecane. Preferably, isoparaffins such as isododecane will be used.

[0236] According to the present invention, mixing with the powdered phase can be carried out using any type of mixer such as a Lodige mixer.

[0237] According to a particular form of the invention, the mixed powder may also undergo grinding, for example with an Alpine pin mill or a cutting process.

[0238] According to a particular form of the invention, the mixing of volatile solvents can be carried out in any suitable container, such as a bowl. It can be done in a planetary mixer. The required dispersion time is not limited and can depend on factors such as the type of mixer. For example, if a planetary mixer is used, the dispersion time can range from 15 to 20 minutes.

[0239] The total amount of oil phase, powdered phase, and volatile solvent is not limited. According to a specific form of the invention, the weight ratio of the total amount of oil phase and powdered phase to the amount of volatile solvent can be 5 / 1, preferably 3 / 1, and more preferably 2 / 1.

[0240] If necessary, degassing can be performed during the mixing step. The oil phase, powdered phase, and volatile solvent can be mixed in a vacuum chamber. The degassing time can depend on factors such as the pressure in the vacuum chamber. It can range from 15 to 20 minutes. Stirring the slurry is preferred for efficient degassing.

[0241] Forming steps

[0242] In this step, the slurry is poured into a container (such as a cup or mold) and then shaped within that container by compaction, particularly pressing and / or suction. Preferably, [the following method is used].

[0243] A crucible or cuvette can be used as a container. The container may have a small hole that allows the solvent to escape only by suction.

[0244] As a method for pouring slurry into a container, methods such as injection via the top of the container (top injection) or injection via the rear of the container (back injection) may be mentioned.

[0245] In the "top-injection" method, the slurry is poured into the container from above. This method is particularly suitable for preparing multi-colored compacted powders.

[0246] In the "back-injection" method, the slurry is injected through the base of the container using a suitable mechanism for introducing it into the container. In particular, a prototype back-injection machine sold by Nanyo Co. Ltd. is used.

[0247] This injection method is applicable to a wide range of compacted cosmetic powders, and is particularly suitable for obtaining compacted powders with complex shapes. The slurry introduced into the container is molded by compression and / or suction. Preferably, compression and suction are performed simultaneously.

[0248] Compaction, particularly pressing, can be carried out by applying pressure to the slurry in the container via mechanical means, such as a press having a surface that may or may not be flat (it may have an embossed surface). Suction, for example, can be performed by reducing the pressure in the container through vacuum. Compaction, particularly pressing, and suction can be repeated several times. Vibration can be applied to the container and / or the press if necessary.

[0249] Drying steps

[0250] In this step, the molded slurry is dried to obtain a compacted powder containing no or very little volatile solvent. Drying completely removes any remaining volatile solvent. The drying temperature and time depend on several factors, such as the composition and the type of volatile solvent used. For example, drying can be carried out at temperatures between 60°C and 100°C for 1 to 12 hours.

[0251] Beauty methods

[0252] The present invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for cosmetic and / or care of keratin materials (such as skin, especially the face or eyelids), characterized in that the method comprises applying a composition as previously defined to the keratin material.

[0253] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be a powder, foundation powder, face powder, or eyeshadow.

[0254] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied by any applicator (such as a powder puff or brush) suitable for compacted powder intended for application to the face or eyelids.

[0255] Such compositions are prepared specifically based on the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0256] Components

[0257] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic component or kit comprising:

[0258] i) A container defining one or more compartments, said container being closed by a closure member and optionally not sealed; and

[0259] ii) The cosmetic and / or care composition according to the invention placed in the compartment.

[0260] The container may be in the form of, for example, a jar or a box. The closure may be in the form of a cap, which includes a cap that is mounted to be movable relative to the container containing the cosmetic and / or care composition by translation or by pivoting.

[0261] The cosmetic components can be combined with an applicator (such as a powder puff, foam applicator, or brush).

[0262] cosmetic additives

[0263] The composition may contain conventional cosmetic additives, such as fat-soluble dyes, preservatives, fragrances, antioxidants, moisturizers, lipophilic active ingredients such as vitamins, and lipophilic UV shielding agents.

[0264] Of course, those skilled in the art will carefully select alternative additives and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the contemplated additions.

[0265] fat-soluble dyes

[0266] The composition according to the invention may contain at least one fat-soluble dye, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0267] For obvious reasons, this amount is prone to vary significantly with respect to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the dye under consideration, and its adjustment is undoubtedly within the capabilities of those skilled in the art.

[0268] For the purposes of this invention, the term "fat-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound that is soluble in an oil phase or a solvent miscible with fatty substances and is capable of imparting color.

[0269] As fat-soluble dyes suitable for use in this invention, synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes may be mentioned in particular, such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotene (β-carotene, lycopene), lutein (capsanthin, capsanthin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline Yellow, annatto, and curcumin.

[0270] Cosmetic Application

[0271] The compositions used according to the present invention can be compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, particularly skin, cheeks and eyelids.

[0272] More particularly, the compositions according to the invention are products for the care and / or makeup of the skin, especially the face, cheeks or eyelids, and more particularly foundation powder, face powder or eyeshadow.

[0273] Such compositions are prepared specifically based on the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0274] Packaging and application of components or kits

[0275] The present invention also relates to a component or kit for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials, comprising:

[0276] - A packaging device comprising the cosmetic composition as described above for coating a keratin material.

[0277] - An applicator for the composition.

[0278] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic component comprising:

[0279] i) Applicator

[0280] ii) The composition according to the invention placed in a container.

[0281] A container may define one or more compartments. A container may be, for example, in the form of a tube.

[0282] This applicator can be integrated with a top cap, which is reversibly fitted onto the container between the closed position and the cosmetic position.

[0283] In a variant, this applicator can be irreversibly attached to the container. Examples of applicators include those made of synthetic fibers, such as felt or brush types.

[0284] It should be understood that, in the context of this invention, the weight percentage given for a compound or family of compounds is always expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0285] Throughout the patent application, unless otherwise stated, the term "comprises one" should be understood to mean "comprising at least one".

[0286] It should be understood that the following examples are presented in an illustrative manner and do not in any way limit the scope of protection granted by this patent application.

[0287] Example 1 of the eyeshadow (in this invention) and Examples 1a and 1b (not in this invention)

[0288] Prepare the following composition.

[0289]

[0290] Scheme for preparing the composition

[0291] 1. Preparation of phase A and phase B

[0292] The components of phase A and the pigment of phase B are weighed in a large stainless steel crucible.

[0293] Grind phase A in the cutting processor as follows: once at 1500 rpm for 15 seconds, then three times at 3000 rpm for 1 minute.

[0294] 2. Incorporation of phase C:

[0295] The components of phase C (excluding isododecane) are heated (in a water bath at 75°C). When phase C melts, it is stirred in a deflocculation centrifuge until a vortex is formed (approximately 300 rpm), and then introduced under stirring via the cap of a cutting processor: once every 1 minute at 1500 rpm.

[0296] The entire mixture was ground in a cutting processor as follows: once for 1 minute at 1500 rpm, then twice for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm, and once for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

[0297] 3. Slurry preparation:

[0298] The previously obtained mixture was diluted in a large amount of isododecane to obtain a powder / solvent mixture of the desired viscosity. This paste was then injected into a base-injection (back-injection) cup using a prototype back-injection machine sold by Nanyang Corporation.

[0299] 4. Slurry injection:

[0300] Back-injection molding allows powder-solvent mixtures or slurries to be injected through the base of the cup while simultaneously extracting a portion of the diluent. Throughout the product injection process, the injection mold is placed under vacuum to allow the removal of isododecane, which is extracted by suction and recovered in a vacuum trap. Therefore, being placed under vacuum facilitates cup filling and homogenization.

[0301] The back-injected parts are then placed in a ventilated oven at 45°C until their weight no longer changes. The product is then considered dry.

[0302] Examples 1c and 1d (outside of this invention) were obtained using conventional dry methods.

[0303] The compositions of Examples 1c and 1d (which are identical to compositions 1a and 1b without isododecane) were prepared as follows:

[0304] Scheme for preparing compositions 1c and 1d by conventional dry methods

[0305] 1. Preparation of phase A and phase B

[0306] The components of phase A and the pigment of phase B are weighed in a large stainless steel crucible.

[0307] Grind phase A in the cutting processor as follows: once at 1500 rpm for 15 seconds, then three times at 3000 rpm for 1 minute.

[0308] 2. Incorporation of phase C:

[0309] The components of phase C ( Excluding isododecane Heat (in a water bath at 75°C). When phase C melts, stir it with a deflocculation centrifuge until a vortex is formed (about 300 rpm), and then introduce it with stirring through the cap of a cutting processor: once every 1 minute at 1500 rpm.

[0310] The entire mixture was ground in a cutting processor as follows: once for 1 minute at 1500 rpm, then twice for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm, and once for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

[0311] 3. Powder compaction using a conventional press:

[0312] The bulk mixture was loaded into cups, each containing a support of a suitable size, according to the studied weight. Fabric was placed on its surface, and the cup dimensions were then imprinted. The assembled assembly was then subjected to a pressure of 40 kgf / cm². 2 It is pressed under pressure to form eyeshadow in the form of compacted powder.

[0313] This makes it possible to obtain Example 1c (composition 1a with conventional pressing) and Composition 1d (composition 1b with conventional pressing).

[0314] Measurement of impact strength:

[0315] Measurement principle

[0316] The machine used for this measurement (called the Packaging Drop Tester sold by Co Pack (Italy)) allows for drop testing of solid compositions in the form of compacted powder to measure their impact strength. The drop height is 30 cm. Using a ruler, the dimensions of the support holding the compact (depending on the crucible size) are set, and then the compact is dropped by compressed air driving the opening of the support. The number of drops required to break the powder is measured.

[0317] The test was conducted on 5 crucibles. A drop test was considered satisfactory when the average number of drops was greater than or equal to 10.

[0318] Measurement of dip / release using a foam applicator

[0319] equipment

[0320] - Caressa® foam applicator (reference number 1001486 - Kahn Corporation)

[0321] - Supplale support (Manufacturer: Idemistupetrochemical; Composition: Collagen sheet with artificial embossing bonded to fabric)

[0322] - Powder samples that have been used at least once and show no visual damage.

[0323] - Hot plate (reference number PCMF400 × 600 - EKIUM Corporation).

[0324] Measurement principle

[0325] Place a piece of supplale on a hot plate to temper it at 32°C. Dip the product in three lateral movements while keeping the applicator parallel to the powder surface and perpendicular to the direction of movement.

[0326] The product is then deposited onto the supplale by three lateral movements, keeping the applicator parallel to the supplale surface and perpendicular to the direction of movement. The application area has a length of approximately 3.5 cm and a width of approximately the applicator.

[0327] The results are then graded on a scale of 0 to 5 based on their strength relative to a pre-established boundary.

[0328] 5 is equivalent to very good

[0329] 4 is equivalent to good

[0330] 3 is equivalent to medium.

[0331] 2 is equivalent to ordinary

[0332] 1 is equivalent to difference

[0333] 0 is equivalent to "not allowed".

[0334] A difference of 1 is considered significant.

[0335] Dipping / releasing measurements using a brush

[0336] equipment

[0337] - M® Eyeshadow Brush - Suqqu

[0338] - Supplale® support (manufacturer: Idemitsu Petrochemical Co., Ltd.; composition: - collagen sheet with artificial embossing bonded to fabric), preheated to 32°C on a hot plate.

[0339] - Crucibles that have been used at least once and show no visual damage

[0340] Measurement principle

[0341] Place a piece of supplale on a hot plate to temper it at 32°C.

[0342] Pick up the product by making three lateral movements while keeping the brush at an angle of approximately 45° to the powder surface and parallel to the direction of movement.

[0343] The product is then deposited onto the supplale by three lateral movements, maintaining the brush at approximately a 45° angle relative to the supplale surface and parallel to the direction of movement. The application area is approximately 3.5 cm long and the brush is approximately 3.5 cm wide.

[0344] The results are then graded on a scale of 0 to 5 based on their strength relative to a pre-established boundary.

[0345] 5 is equivalent to very good

[0346] 4 is equivalent to good

[0347] 3 is equivalent to medium.

[0348] 2 is equivalent to ordinary

[0349] 1 is equivalent to difference

[0350] 0 is equivalent to "not allowed".

[0351] A difference of 1 is considered significant.

[0352] Evaluation of matte finish

[0353] A protocol for evaluating matte finish was executed on a panel of 10 experienced individuals. Matte finish was evaluated as a clump while the product was in its cup and then on the skin after application.

[0354] The group gave a rating from 0 to 5.

[0355] 0 corresponds to glossy powder.

[0356] 5 corresponds to matte powder.

[0357] Sensory evaluation

[0358] The evaluation protocol was implemented on a group of 10 experienced individuals, and the results involved:

[0359] - The texture of the powder,

[0360] - The feel, especially the softness to the touch, the creamy texture, and the smoothness when dipped in.

[0361] - Application (sampling amount, ease of application, adhesion during application).

[0362] - Makeup results: The uniformity of the makeup effect, powdery effect, coverage, coloring effect, matte finish, all-day comfort, staying power and ease of removal of the composition according to the invention, as evaluated by the same individual.

[0363] result

[0364] The group gave a rating from 0 to 10.

[0365] 0 corresponds to powder that does not meet any of the above parameters.

[0366] 10 corresponds to powder that meets all of the above parameters.

[0367] The results of the comparative test are shown in the table below:

[0368]

[0369] The compacted powder in Example 1 demonstrates excellent pick-up / release quality using both a foam applicator and a brush, and also exhibits good impact strength and excellent matte finish.

Claims

1. A solid composition in the form of a compacted powder, said solid composition particularly comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: a) An oil phase, comprising at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the oil phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil; and b) A powdered phase, comprising at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the powdered phase comprises at least: i) Perlite; and ii) At least one spherical packing material, said at least one spherical packing material being selected from mineral packing materials, naturally derived organic packing materials, and mixtures thereof; and iii) at least one granular colorant; and c) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer; and d) At least one pigment; The composition does not contain talc particles or mica particles in free form, and The composition is obtainable via a wet preparation method, which includes the following steps: 1) The oil phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, the powdered phase, and at least one volatile solvent are mixed to form a slurry; as well as 2) The slurry is injected into a container and shaped by compaction, particularly pressing and / or suction, to obtain the composition in the form of compacted powder.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, The content of the powdered phase ranges from 50% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of residual volatile solvent derived from the wet preparation method relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to claim 3, wherein, The volatile solvent is selected from water, C2-C4 monohydric alcohols, ethers, cyclic or linear volatile silicone oils, and volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, particularly C8-C4 oils. 16 Isoalkanes, and more specifically isododecane.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising perlite in an amount ranging from 5% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The inorganic spherical filler according to the present invention is selected from the group consisting of: glass microspheres; silica microspheres, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The naturally sourced organic spherical filler is selected from spherical cellulose beads and / or microcrystalline cellulose in spherical form, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the spherical filler in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additional filler.

10. The composition according to claim 9, wherein, The additional filler is selected from N-(C8-C) 22 Powders of acyl amino acids, boron nitride, magnesium stearate and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to claim 9 or 10, comprising the additional filler in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The oil phase is present in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The non-volatile oil is selected from those with a viscosity range of 50 to 500 mm at 25°C. 2 / s of polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, and benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The non-volatile oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous copolymer formed by the polymerization of olefins.

16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The at least one amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefins.

17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an optionally hydrogenated copolymer comprising styrene blocks and C3-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks.

18. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The granular colorant is selected from pigments, pearlescent agents, and mixtures thereof.

19. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a granular colorant in a total amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. The composition according to claim 19, wherein, The pigment is selected from -Titanium dioxide (CI 77891). -Red iron oxide (CI 77491). - Yellow iron oxide (CI 77492). - Black iron oxide (CI 77499), and - Its mixture.

21. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one emulsifying nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8, particularly sorbitol isostearate having the following INCI name: sorbitol isostearate.

22. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The composition is in the form of foundation powder, face powder, or eyeshadow.

23. A beauty component or kit comprising: i) A container defining one or more compartments, said container being closed by a closure member and optionally not sealed; and ii) The composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 22 placed in the compartment.

24. A method for coating a keratin material, particularly skin, the method comprising applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 22 to the keratin material.

25. A method for preparing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that, The method includes at least the following steps: 1) Mixing the oil phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, the powdered phase, and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and 2) The slurry is injected into a container and shaped by compaction, particularly pressing and / or suction, to obtain compacted powder.

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