Silicone-free cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to compositions comprising squalene, at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon, at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester, and methods of using such compositions. The cosmetic composition is free of silicone. The cosmetic composition is easy to smear and has good sensory properties even without using silicone.

Description

[0001] Cross-references to related applications

[0002] This application claims the benefit of U.S. Nonprovisional Application No. 18 / 238,678, filed August 28, 2023, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Technical Field

[0003] This invention generally relates to a cosmetic composition and a method of using the same. More specifically, the invention relates to compositions containing a mixture of emollients that contribute to producing a sensory texture similar to that of compositions containing silicone. Background of the Invention

[0005] A variety of compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, have been developed to be conveniently and comfortably applied to a target matrix. These compositions contain one or more active ingredients that have been shown to have bioactive properties against skin aging.

[0006] However, in addition to the skin benefits of these products, consumers also seek a pleasant sensory experience during and / or after use. Therefore, these products traditionally contain silicone compounds. Silicones are well-known in cosmetics for providing a smooth application with minimal resistance, a soft end-feel, minimal greasiness, and a non-sticky feel. All of these properties are desirable in these products.

[0007] However, developing environmentally friendly cosmetic formulations (i.e., those designed and developed with environmental concerns in mind) is becoming a major focus in addressing global challenges.

[0008] Therefore, it is essential to develop compositions and / or preparation processes and / or more sustainable ingredients to address these environmental challenges.

[0009] In this context, it is crucial to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a good naturalness index and / or natural and, more particularly, plant-based sources, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds.

[0010] Therefore, there is a particular need for novel care compositions that have sensory properties comparable to existing care compositions while being free of silicone compounds.

[0011] There is a particular need for skincare compositions that are free of silicone compounds, which offer comparable sensory experiences to existing skincare compositions during application and provide a pleasant sensation after application. Summary of the Invention

[0012] The summary is intended to provide an overview of some of the concepts that will be further described below in the detailed description of the application. The summary is not intended to determine key or essential features of the claimed subject matter nor is it intended to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter.

[0013] In fact, the inventors have surprisingly found that a particular association of squalene, a bio-based branched hydrocarbon and a bio-based ester of pentaerythritol, in specific proportions, solves the above technical problems. This combination advantageously allows the removal of silicone compounds, both at the time of application and after application, without compromising the sensory properties of the composition.

[0014] These compositions also comprise sustainable ingredients and are therefore able to respond to environmental challenges.

[0015] The cosmetic composition generally comprises: a. squalene; b. at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon; c. at least one bio-based ester of pentaerythritol; and wherein the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone.

[0016] The composition according to the present disclosure can be in the form of an emulsion, a dispersion, a gel, a paste and a stick. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition is in the form of a gel.

[0017] In some embodiments, the content of squalene is from about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the content of squalene is from about 0.15 to about 18 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0018] In one or more embodiments, the at least one bio-based branched alkane is selected from the group consisting of C9-12 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes, C15-23 alkanes, branched isomers of undecane, branched isomers of tridecane, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the content of the at least one bio-based branched alkane is from about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the content of the at least one bio-based branched alkane is from about 0.5 to about 18 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.

[0019] In some embodiments, at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester is selected from pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; dipentaerythritol hexacaprylate / hexadecanoate; pentaerythritol distearate; dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol isostearate / decanoate / caprylate / adipate; pentaerythritol tetrabenzyl ester; pentaerythritol tetralaurate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; and mixtures thereof. In one or more embodiments, the content of at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester is from about 0.1 to about 20 wt.% of the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the content of at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester is from about 0.15 to about 18 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.

[0020] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition is silicone-free.

[0021] In one or more embodiments, the cosmetic composition may contain water.

[0022] In one or more embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include one or more additional components selected from the group consisting of: moisturizers, antibacterial agents, antioxidants, preservatives, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ultraviolet filters, plant extracts; dyes / pigments, fillers, thickeners, polymers, penetrants, fragrances, dispersants, film-forming agents; ceramides; sunscreens and combinations thereof.

[0023] In several embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include one or more active ingredients selected from the following: sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid, methyl dihydrojasmonic acid, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvaline glycine, pentaerythritol tetra(di-tert-butylhydroxycinnamate), n-hydroxysuccinimide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, apigenin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, yeast extract, citric acid, and combinations thereof.

[0024] In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more active ingredients selected from the following: sodium hydroxide, disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid, methyl dihydrojasmonic acid, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvaline glycine, pentaerythritol tetra(di-tert-butylhydroxycinnamate), n-hydroxysuccinimide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, apigenin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, yeast extract, citric acid, and combinations thereof.

[0025] According to another aspect of this disclosure, the cosmetic composition may include: a. Squalene, approximately 0.1% to approximately 20 wt.%; b. at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon, ranging from about 0.1% to about 20 wt.%; c. At least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester, in amounts of about 0.1% to about 20 wt.%; The cosmetic composition is essentially silicone-free.

[0026] These cosmetic compositions can be used to treat skin, such as the skin of the human face and neck. Therefore, this disclosure relates to methods of treating skin, including applying the cosmetic compositions of this disclosure to the skin. Furthermore, these cosmetic compositions can also be used to treat dry skin, repair skin damage caused by photoaging, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, and uneven skin texture. The methods described above may not have a therapeutic effect.

[0027] Other features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description, and the principles of the invention are illustrated by way of example in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

[0028] This disclosure describes exemplary embodiments based on the overall inventive concept and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. In fact, the invention described in the specification is broader in scope and not limited thereto than the exemplary embodiments described herein, and the terminology used herein has its full and ordinary meaning.

[0029] Detailed description of the invention

[0030] "Cosmetic acceptable" means compatible with any keratin matrix. For example, "cosmetic acceptable carrier" means a carrier compatible with any keratin matrix.

[0031] The indefinite articles “a” and “an” used herein, when applied to any feature in the embodiments of the invention described in the specification and claims, refer to one or more features. Unless otherwise expressly stated, the use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature. The definite article “the” preceding a singular or plural noun or noun phrase indicates one or more specific designated features and may have a singular or plural meaning depending on the context in which it is used. The adjective “any” indicates one, some, or all, without distinction, regardless of quantity.

[0032] As used herein, “at least one” means one or more, and therefore includes both single ingredients and mixtures / combinations.

[0033] As used herein, the expression "substantially silicone-free" means that the silicone content in the composition is less than 1% (weight percentage), preferably less than 0.5% (weight percentage), more preferably less than 0.3% (weight percentage), more preferably less than 0.1% (weight percentage), and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% (weight percentage). Preferably, the composition is completely silicone-free. Silicone refers to any silicon compound.

[0034] As used in this article, “bio-based” means that at least 50% of the molecular weight of a RM is derived from renewable carbon or recycled feedstocks / byproducts.

[0035] When the transitional terms “comprising,” “mainly consisting of,” and “composed of” are used in the original and amended forms of the appended claims, these transitional terms define the scope of the claims and explicitly exclude any additional elements or steps (if any) not listed in the claims. The term “comprising” is intended to have an inclusive or open-ended meaning and does not exclude any unlisted additional elements, methods, steps, or materials. The term “composed of” excludes any elements, steps, or materials other than those specified in the claims, and in the latter case, excludes any elements, steps, or materials other than impurities typically associated with the specified materials. The term “mainly consisting of” limits the scope of the claims to the specified elements, steps, or materials, and those elements, steps, or materials that do not materially affect the essential and novel features of the claimed invention. All materials and methods embodying the invention described herein may be more specifically defined in alternative embodiments using the transitional terms “comprising,” “mainly consisting of,” and “composed of.”

[0036] Unless otherwise specified in the operational examples, all figures indicating the quantity of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood to be modified in all cases by the word “about”, indicating less than 10% of the indicated number (e.g., “about 10%” means 9%–11%, “about 2%” means 1.8%–2.2%).

[0037] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages and proportions are by weight. Unless otherwise stated, all percentages are based on the total composition. Generally, unless expressly stated otherwise herein, “weight” or “amount” used to describe the percentage of an ingredient means the amount of the raw material constituting that ingredient, wherein the active ingredient content of that raw material may be less than or at most 100%. Therefore, the weight percentage of the active ingredient in the composition refers to the amount of the raw material containing that active ingredient used, and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active ingredient, wherein the final percentage of the active ingredient depends on the weight percentage of the active ingredient in the raw material.

[0038] All ranges and quantities given herein are intended to include subranges and quantities ending at any disclosed point. Therefore, ranges such as “1% to 10%, e.g., 2% to 8%, e.g., 3% to 5%” are intended to encompass ranges such as “1% to 8%”, “1% to 5%”, “2% to 10%”, etc. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified with the word “about”, whether explicitly stated or not. Similarly, ranges such as “about 1% to 10%” are intended to be modified with the word “about” for both the 1% and 10% endpoints. Furthermore, unless otherwise explicitly stated, the quantities of components given are intended to indicate the amount of active substance.

[0039] Although the numerical ranges and parameters listed in the scope of this invention are approximate, the values ​​listed in the specific examples are as accurate as possible unless otherwise stated. However, any value inevitably contains a certain degree of error due to the standard deviation in its respective test measurement. The following examples are intended to illustrate embodiments of this disclosure but are not intended to be limiting.

[0040] This invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising specific proportions of squalene, bio-based branched hydrocarbons, and bio-based pentaerythritol esters. The advantage of this combination is that it removes silicone compounds without impairing the sensory properties of the composition, both during and after application.

[0041] The cosmetic compositions disclosed in this invention typically comprise: a. Squalene; b. At least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon; c. At least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester; and The cosmetic composition is essentially silicone-free.

[0042] Cosmetic compositions are typically formulated as emulsions, dispersions, or gels. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition is in gel form.

[0043] As mentioned above, certain combinations of squalene, at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon, and at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester are believed to exhibit sensory properties comparable to those of cosmetic compositions containing silicone.

[0044] Suitable ingredients, such as those listed below, may be included in or excluded from the formulation of a cosmetic composition, depending on the specific combination of other ingredients, the form of the cosmetic composition, and / or the intended use of the formulation (e.g., lotion, serum, gel, cream, etc.).

[0045] squalane

[0046] This cosmetic composition contains squalene.

[0047] Squalane (C30H62, chemical name 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane) is a saturated hydrocarbon composed of a chain of 30 saturated carbon atoms, and its molecular formula is as follows: [Chemistry 1]

[0048] It is through squalene (C 30 H 50 It is produced by hydrogenation. Originally, squalene was extracted from shark liver oil. Due to its saturated chemical structure, squalane is much more stable than squalene, which is highly susceptible to peroxidation.

[0049] The squalane used in this invention is preferably of plant origin. Preferably, the squalane is derived from vegetable oils, most commonly olive oil, wheat germ oil, wheat bran oil, rice bran oil, or olive starch.

[0050] The present invention preferably extracts squalane from olive oil.

[0051] For example, products sold by Amyris under the name Neossance Squalane will be used.

[0052] The content of squalene in a cosmetic composition is typically from about 0.1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the content of squalene in a cosmetic composition may be from 0.1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, from about 0.15 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, from about 0.2 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, from about 0.25 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, from about 0.3 wt.% to about 19 wt.%, from about 0.4 wt.% to about 19 wt.%, from about 0.5 wt.% to about 18 wt.%, or from about 1 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, including the above ranges and sub-ranges, all of which are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Alternatively, the squalene content may be 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, 0.2 wt.% to 20 wt.%, 0.3 wt.% to 20 wt.%, 0.35 wt.% to 20 wt.%, 0.35 wt.% to 15 wt.%, 0.5 wt.% to 14 wt.%, 0.6 wt.% to 14 wt.%, or 0.8 wt.% to 12 wt.%, including ranges and subranges thereof, based on the total weight of the composition. Similarly, in some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may contain about 20 wt.%, about 19 wt.%, about 18 wt.%, about 17 wt.%, about 16 wt.%, about 15 wt.%, about 14 wt.%, about 13 wt.%, about 12 wt.%, about 11 wt.%, about 10 wt.%, about 9 wt.%, about 8 wt.%, about 7 wt.%, about 6 wt.%, about 5 wt.%, about 4 wt.%, about 3 wt.%, about 2 wt.%, about 1 wt.%, about 0.5 wt.%, or about 0.1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In one embodiment, the squalene content may be 2% or about 2% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0053] bio-based branched hydrocarbons

[0054] According to the disclosure of this invention, cosmetic compositions may include a mixture of branched alkanes having 9 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0055] For example, the alkanes suitable for use in this invention can be mixtures of alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms and a molecular weight between 200 g / mol and 250 g / mol.

[0056] The preferred alkane is a branched alkane.

[0057] Alkanes are preferably of plant origin.

[0058] Preferably, the mixture comprises 95 to 99 wt.% (relative to the total weight of the mixture) of branched alkanes C15-C19 and 1 to 5 wt.% (relative to the total weight of the mixture) of alkanes C12-C14 and C20-C26. The molecular weight of the mixture is preferably about 216 g / mol. This mixture is sold by Seppic under the trade name Emogreen L15.

[0059] Alternatively, preferably, the mixture comprises 95 to 99 wt.% (relative to the total weight of the mixture) of branched alkanes C15-C19 and 1 to 5 wt.% (relative to the total weight of the mixture) of alkanes C12-C14 and C20-C26. The molecular weight of the mixture is preferably about 248 g / mol. This mixture is sold by Seppic under the trade name Emogreen L19.

[0060] Alternatively, preferably, the mixture comprises 10 wt.% of branched alkanes C15-C19 relative to the total weight of the mixture, and 1% to 5 wt.% of alkanes C12-C14 and C20-C26 relative to the total weight of the mixture. This mixture is marketed by Seppic under the trade name Emosmart L19.

[0061] The cosmetic composition contains bio-based branched hydrocarbons, typically in an amount of about 0.1 wt.% to about 20 wt.% (based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition). In some cases, the amount of bio-based branched hydrocarbons in the cosmetic composition may be about 0.1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.15 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.2 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.25 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.3 wt.% to about 19 wt.%, about 0.4 wt.% to about 19 wt.%, about 0.5 wt.% to about 18 wt.%, or about 1 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, including the ranges and subranges above (based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition).

[0062] In one embodiment, the content of bio-based branched hydrocarbons may be 1% or about 1% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0063] bio-based pentaerythritol esters

[0064] The cosmetic compositions disclosed in this invention may include at least one or more bio-based pentaerythritol esters.

[0065] Esters of pentaerythritol with C6-C22 mono- or di-fatty acids, such as pentaerythritol esters with isostearic acid, decanoic acid, caprylic acid, and adipic acid (Croda Supermol-L).

[0066] A polyester comprising at least three ester functional groups, consisting of a saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally hydroxylated C4-C40 monocarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid, and a corresponding C2-C40 (preferably C3-C40) polyol or monool; said polyester optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl group.

[0067] For example, one could mention oils containing three ester functional groups, acids containing three carboxyl functional groups and monohydroxylated, and C2-C4 monools.

[0068] For example, linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number between 35 and 70 can be mentioned, such as pentaerythritol tetravalerate (MW = 697 g / mol).

[0069] Fatty alcohol esters or branched fatty acids are also applicable, such as pentaerythritol tetraisonononate (MW=697 g / mol), pentaerythritol tetraisostearate (MW=1202 g / mol), polyglycerol tetraisostearate-2 (MW=1232 g / mol), and compounds described in EP-A-0 955 039, such as pentaerythritol tetradecyl-2-tetradecanoate (MW=1538 g / mol).

[0070] For example, the bio-based pentaerythritol esters suitable for use in this invention can be pentaerythritol tetraisostearate and dipentaerythritol hexacaprylate / hexadecanoate; pentaerythritol distearate; dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol isostearate / decanoate / caprylate / adipate; pentaerythritol tetrabenzyl ester; pentaerythritol tetralaurate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Possible bio-based pentaerythritol esters include pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, such as Croda's product sold under the trade name CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV), Oleon's product sold under the trade name JOLEE 7181, or Patek Fine Chemicals' products sold under the trade names PAESTER PETIS and PAESTER PETIS / MB; dipentaerythritol hexacaprylate / hexadecanoate, such as Stearinerie Dubois' product sold under the trade names DUB DPHCC or DUB DPHCC MB; pentaerythritol distearate, such as BASF's product sold under the trade name CUTINA PES; and dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, such as NisshinOillio's product sold under the trade names COSMOL 168 EV or SALACOS 168. Products sold under the trade name EV; pentaerythritol isostearate / decanoate / caprylate / adipate, for example, Croda products sold under the trade name SP SUPERMOL L MBAL-LQ-(RB) or SUPERMOL L-LQ-(RB).

[0072] In one embodiment, the content of at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester is from about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In one or more embodiments, the content of the at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester is from about 0.15 to about 18 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0073] The cosmetic composition contains bio-based pentaerythritol esters, typically in an amount of about 0.1 wt.% to about 20 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the amount of bio-based pentaerythritol esters in the cosmetic composition may be about 0.1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.15 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.2 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.25 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.3 wt.% to about 19 wt.%, about 0.4 wt.% to about 19 wt.%, about 0.5 wt.% to about 18 wt.%, or about 1 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, including ranges and subranges thereof, all based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0074] In one embodiment, the amount of bio-based pentaerythritol ester may be 1% or about 1% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0075] The cosmetic composition contains bio-based branched hydrocarbons, typically in an amount of about 0.1 wt.% to about 20 wt.% (based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition). In some cases, the amount of bio-based branched hydrocarbons in the cosmetic composition may be about 0.1 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.15 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.2 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.25 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, about 0.3 wt.% to about 19 wt.%, about 0.4 wt.% to about 19 wt.%, about 0.5 wt.% to about 18 wt.%, or about 1 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, including the ranges and subranges above (based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition).

[0076] In one embodiment, the content of bio-based branched hydrocarbons may be 0.8% or about 0.8% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0077] cosmetically acceptable carrier system

[0078] This cosmetic composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier system. “Cosmetically acceptable” means a carrier compatible with any keratin matrix, which, for the purposes of this document, includes water and optionally a water-based solvent, subject to any exceptions disclosed herein.

[0079] Cosmetic compositions may contain any ingredients typically intended for topical application and administration. Water, solvents, and fatty compounds are particularly mentioned. for example The ingredients described by the International Federation of Cosmetic Chemists in their book Cosmetic Raw Material Analysis and Quality, Volume I: Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994, the full text of which is incorporated herein by reference), polyols, pigments, fillers, silicones, surfactants, thickeners, gelling agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof in various proportions.

[0080] organic solvent

[0081] According to the disclosure of this invention, the composition contains one or more organic solvents. The organic solvents present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure of this invention include, but are not limited to, butanediol, C12-15 alkylbenzoates, glycerin, propylene glycol, octyl glycol, or combinations thereof. While these solvents are given by way of example, it should be understood that other solvents known in the art and compatible with cosmetic applications may also be used.

[0082] According to various embodiments, an organic solvent may be present in a given composition, in an amount of about 10% to about 30%, or about 12% to about 28%, or about 15% to about 25%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof, based on the weight of the composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of this invention.

[0083] water

[0084] According to various embodiments, a given composition may contain water in an amount of about 2% to about 90%, about 3% to about 90%, about 5% to about 85%, about 10% to about 80%, or about 15% to about 75%, or about 20% to about 70%, or about 30% to about 65%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof, based on the weight of the composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of the invention.

[0085] polymeric thickening agent

[0086] According to various embodiments, the composition may contain one or more polymeric thickeners. In some embodiments, the one or more thickeners may be selected from one or more natural gums and synthetic polymers, for example, the thickeners may be selected from starches (corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, potato starch), gums (xanthan gum, carrageenan, gellan gum, sclerotinia gum, Tara fermentation gum), etc. In some specific embodiments, the thickeners may be selected from acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, carob gum (ceratonia siliqua (carob)), polyacrylamide dimethyl taurate, ammonium acrylamide dimethyl taurate / stearyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, and polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.

[0087] In some embodiments, the polymer thickener may be carbomer, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum, xanthan gum, sodium carboxymethyl starch, sclerotinum (and) xanthan gum, xanthan gum (and) carob gum (50 / 50), dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sclerotinum (and) xanthan gum (75 / 25), sclerotinum, xanthan gum (and) sclerotinum (and) lecithin (and) pullulan; or combinations thereof.

[0088] In some embodiments, the composition may contain two or more polymeric thickeners. When at least one polymeric thickener is present, the amount of each thickener in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, from about 0.3% to about 1.2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of the foregoing, based on the weight of the composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of the invention.

[0089] In some embodiments, the total amount (if present) of the polymeric thickener in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.02% to about 2%, or from about 0.03% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range, based on the weight of the composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges also fall within the scope of this invention.

[0090] Therefore, if one or more polymeric thickeners are present, their content, based on the total weight of the composition, is approximately 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.5%, 4.0%, 4.5% to about 5.0%, including increments and ranges.

[0091] optional active compound

[0092] According to the disclosure of this invention, embodiments of cosmetic compositions may include one or more additional compounds selected from active compounds, particularly keratinocyte active ingredients, such as, but not limited to, skin active ingredients. In some embodiments, optional active compounds may be selected from: vitamins, such as vitamin E, carnosine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, at least one sunscreen agent, at least one hydroxy acid, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, active compounds are selected from α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, or polyhydroxy acids, which are selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose, and combinations thereof. For the avoidance of doubt, cosmetic compositions may include one or more of any of these optional active compounds. For example, cosmetic compositions may include one or more hydroxy acids, one or more vitamins, etc.

[0093] Vitamin E can be selected from α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, α-tocotrienol, β-tocotrienol, δ-tocotrienol, γ-tocotrienol, and their derivatives. Salts or derivatives of tocopherols include pharmaceutically acceptable compounds such as acetates, sulfates, succinates, nicotinates, palmitates, allophanates, phosphates, quinones or halogenated derivatives, esters or stereoisomers, etc. This invention covers the use of vitamin E derivatives in which substitution, addition, or other modifications are made to the 6-chromanol ring and / or side chains, provided that these derivatives retain the antioxidant activity of vitamin E. Other tocopherols can be constructed by coupling various other moieties (e.g., oxygen-, nitrogen-, sulfur-, and / or phosphorus-containing moieties) to the ring structure or side chains. Tocopherol derivatives can also be prepared by varying the side chain length of tocopherols (e.g., α-, β-, δ-, and γ-tocopherols). The stereochemistry and ring structure of tocopherols, as well as the bond saturation of the side chains, can vary. Other tocopherol derivatives, including prodrugs, can be prepared by coupling sugars or other moieties to the side chains or ring structures. Tocopherols include, but are not limited to, stereoisomers (e.g., + and - stereoisomers of α-tocopherol; (+ / -) indicates a racemic mixture) or mixtures of structurally different tocopherols (e.g., α-plus-γ-tocopherol). Tocopherols are available from, for example, Roche, located in Natley, New Jersey.

[0094] In one embodiment, other active ingredients may also include at least one hydroxy acid selected from α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, or polyhydroxy acids. Therefore, in various embodiments, the hydroxy acid may be selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose, and combinations thereof.

[0095] In one embodiment, other active ingredients may also include one or more antioxidants selected from: mangiferin, baicalin, resveratrol, tannic acid, polyphenols, amino acids and their derivatives, imidazole, carnosine derivatives, carotenoids, carotenes (such as α-carotene, β-carotene and lycopene), vitamin A, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, glutathione, plant extracts (such as rosemary extract, olive leaf extract), green tea extract, and combinations thereof.

[0096] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises a combination of active compounds present in the cosmetic composition, including hydroxy acids, tocopherols, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, or combinations thereof.

[0097] Typically, each optional active compound is present in the cosmetic composition in a quantity of about 0.1% to about 30%, in some embodiments in a quantity of about 0.5% to about 30%, in some embodiments in a quantity of about 0.5% to about 15%, in some embodiments in a quantity of about 0.1% to about 1%, in some embodiments in a quantity of about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of the foregoing quantities, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0098] The content of vitamin E and its derivatives (including but not limited to tocopherol) in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.5% to about 2%, in some embodiments from about 0.5% to about 1%, in some embodiments from about 1% to about 2.0%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of the above contents, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0099] The cosmetic composition may contain one or more of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, and carnosine in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5%, in some embodiments about 0.1% to about 3%, in some embodiments about 0.5% to about 1.0%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of the above amounts, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0100] The hyaluronic acid content in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.01% to about 1%, in some embodiments from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, in some embodiments from about 0.05% to about 0.07%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of the above contents, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0101] The panthenol content in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1% to about 1%, in some embodiments from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, in some embodiments from about 0.2% to about 0.4%, in some embodiments from about 0.2% to about 0.25%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of the above contents, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0102] The cosmetic composition may contain about 0.25% to about 10% of hydroxy acids, in some embodiments about 0.5% to about 8%, in some embodiments about 1% to about 5%, in some embodiments about 0.25% to about 0.5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of the above contents, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0103] The content of carnosine in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.10% to about 1%, in some embodiments from about 0.20% to about 0.5%, in some embodiments from about 0.20% to about 0.25%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of the above contents, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0104] Therefore, in various embodiments, if optional active compounds are present in the cosmetic composition of this disclosure, the content range of each individual component of these active compounds is as described above, from about 0.01 wt.%, 0.02 wt.%, 0.03 wt.%, 0.04 wt.%, 0.05 wt.%, 0.06 wt.%, 0.07 wt.%, 0.08 wt.%, 0.09 wt.%, 0.10 wt.%, 0.20 wt.%, 0.30 wt.%, 0.40 wt.%, 0.50 wt.%, 0.60 wt.%, 0.70 wt.%, 0.80 wt.%, 0.9 0 wt.%, 1.0 wt.%, 2 wt.%, 3 wt.%, 4 wt.%, 5 wt.%, 6 wt.%, 7 wt.%, 8 wt.%, 9 wt.%, 10 wt.%, 11 wt.%, 12 wt.%, 13 wt.%, 14 wt.%, 15 wt.%, 16 wt.%, 17 wt.%, 18 wt.%, 19 wt.%, 20 wt.%, 21 wt.%, 22 wt.%, 23 wt.%, 24 wt.%, 25 wt.%, 26 wt.%, 27 wt.%, 28 wt.% to about 30 wt.%, including increments and ranges in between.

[0105] optional additives

[0106] The composition may also contain at least one additive used in the cosmetic field that does not affect the properties of the composition of the present invention, such as emulsifiers, emollients, fragrances, pH adjusters (citric acid, sodium chloride; neutralizers or pH adjusters (e.g., triethanolamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide) and combinations thereof), other cosmetically acceptable additives, such as, but not limited to, pearlescent agents, silica and colorants; essential oils; fruit extracts, such as apple (Pyrus Malus (Apple)) fruit extract and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder. While these optional additives are given by way of example only, it should be understood that other optional components known in the art and compatible with cosmetic applications may also be used.

[0107] According to various embodiments, the content of one or more additives (alone or in combination) in the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure may be from about 0.001 wt.% to about 20 wt.%, or from about 0.005 wt.% to about 0.01 wt.%, or from about 0.01 wt.% to about 0.1 wt.%, or from about 0.15 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, or from about 0.40 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, or from about 0.5 wt.% to about 2.5 wt.%, or from about 1 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of the above contents, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0108] Therefore, one additive or a combination of additives may be present, and the content of each additive or combination of additives is approximately 0.001 wt.%, 0.002 wt.%, 0.003 wt.%, 0.004 wt.%, 0.005 wt.%, 0.006 wt.%, 0.007 wt.%, 0.008 wt.%, 0.009 wt.%, 0.01 wt.%, 0.02 wt.%, 0.03 wt.%, 0.04 wt.%, 0.05 wt.%, 0.06 wt.%, 0.07 wt.%, 0.08 wt.%, 0.09 wt.%, 0. 10 wt.%, 0.20 wt.%, 0.30 wt.%, 0.40 wt.%, 0.50 wt.%, 0.60 wt.%, 0.70 wt.%, 0.80 wt.%, 0.90 wt.%, 1.0 wt.%, 2 wt.%, 3 wt.%, 4 wt.%, 5 wt.%, 6 wt.%, 7 wt.%, 8 wt.%, 9 wt.%, 10 wt.%, 11 wt.%, 12 wt.%, 13 wt.%, 14 wt.%, 15 wt.%, 16 wt.%, 17 wt.%, 18 wt.%, 19 wt.% to about 20%, including increments and ranges therein.

[0109] Although optional additives are given as examples, it should be understood that other suitable optional components known in the art and compatible with cosmetic applications may also be used. Those skilled in the art will understand that any optional additive is present only to the extent and in amount that will not materially adversely affect the essential and novel features of the claimed disclosure. Therefore, in some embodiments containing optional additives, such optional additives will not materially adversely affect the solubility of the skin-active ingredient in the cosmetic composition. And in some embodiments containing optional additives, such optional additives will not materially adversely affect the cosmetic composition forming a single-phase solution.

[0110] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include optional additives, such as one or more of the following: phenoxyethanol, terephthalic acid dicamphor sulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, sodium citrate, sodium chloride, sodium hydroxyacetophenone benzoate, potassium sorbate, citric acid, caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, phenoxyethanol is present in the cosmetic composition as a preservative at a concentration of about 0.5% to about 2%; in some embodiments, it is present at a concentration of about 1% to about 2%.

[0111] According to various embodiments, the content of one or more active ingredients and additives (present alone or in combination) in the cosmetic compositions of this disclosure ranges from about 0.001% to about 20%, in some embodiments from about 0.05% to about 0.01%, in some embodiments from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, in some embodiments from about 0.15% to about 5%, in some embodiments from about 0.40% to about 4%, in some embodiments from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, in some embodiments from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, in some embodiments from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges also fall within the scope of this invention.

[0112] Therefore, one or more active ingredients and additives may be present, each ingredient or combination in an amount of approximately 0.001 wt.%, 0.005 wt.%, 0.01 wt.%, 0.02 wt.%, 0.03 wt.%, 0.04 wt.%, 0.05 wt.%, 0.06 wt.%, 0.07 wt.%, 0.08 wt.%, 0.09 wt.%, 0.01 wt.%, 0.02 wt.%, 0.03 wt.%, 0.04 wt.%, 0.05 wt.%, 0.06 wt.%, 0.07 wt.%, 0.08 wt.%, 0.09 wt.%, 0.10 wt.%. t.%, 0.20wt.%, 0.30wt.%, 0.40wt.%, 0.50wt.%, 0.60wt.%, 0.70wt.%, 0.80wt.%, 0.90wt.%, 1.0wt.%, 2wt.%, 3wt.%, 4wt.%, 5wt.%, 6wt.%, 7wt.%, 8wt.%, 9wt.%, 10wt.%, 11wt.%, 12wt.%, 13wt.%, 14wt.%, 15wt.%, 16wt.%, 17wt.%, 18wt.%, 19wt.% to about 20wt.%, including increments and ranges therein.

[0113] The following examples are intended to further illustrate the invention and are not intended to limit the invention in any way. Unless otherwise stated, all parts are by weight.

[0114] Example

[0115] Example 1 – Preparation of Sample Composition

[0116] The sample compositions shown in the table below can be prepared as follows: table 1 :

[0117] Water, chelating agent, preservative, and water-soluble solvent (excluding alcohol) are mixed in a sufficiently large reaction vessel. The polymer is then added, stirred, and homogenized to ensure thorough dispersion. After a period of time, the viscosity of the reaction vessel will increase slightly due to the thickening effect of the polymer, resulting in a gel-like consistency. Next, the surfactant and silicone or bio-based oil are added, stirred, and homogenized. The mixture is allowed to stand and homogenized until a dense emulsion is formed. Then, the water-soluble active ingredient is added, stirred, and homogenized until all active ingredients are completely dissolved. If necessary, water-insoluble active ingredients can be dissolved in alcohol, stirred, homogenized, and then added to the reaction vessel.

[0118] Example 2 - Testing of Mixtures of Different Emollients

[0119] This section tested several emollient mixtures and compared them to one another. The results for each attribute were rated on a scale of 1-5 and presented in a table. See Table 2.

[0120] table 2: Comparison of data on emollient mixtures

[0121] The examples above demonstrate that emollient blends can exhibit significant differences in sensory properties and spreadability. The objective of this invention is to develop an emollient blend, based on the same base formulation, with sensory properties and spreadability similar to light and medium-weight silicones.

[0122] Because silicone chemistry and the resulting sensory properties are very unique, it is difficult to find alternatives to these compounds, and there are no clear, universal alternatives to carbon-based emollients; therefore, the inventors researched and developed a mixture.

[0123] As an example, a moisturizer mixture was developed in a specific matrix. This matrix formulation is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion serum containing an acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (i.e., Pemulen EZ4U) as a stabilizing polymer and xanthan gum as a thickener to increase viscosity. Furthermore, it contains various active ingredients, penetration enhancers, preservatives, solvents, and an oil phase. In the comparative example (i.e., Comparative Example 1), it consisted of a silicone moisturizer. In the case of the present invention (i.e., Example 1 according to the invention), the oil phase consisted of a renewable carbon-based moisturizer, designed to provide a similar sensory effect to the comparative example containing the silicone mixture. In selecting the carbon-based moisturizer, several key sensory properties were tested, including spreadability upon application, lightness / volatility, duration of effect, cushioning, and aftertaste.

[0124] It is well known to those skilled in the art that the unique ductility and durability of silicones stem from the greater bond rotational flexibility / flexibility of their silicone bonds, and that the surface tension of the raw material itself is lower than that of carbon-based emulsifiers. Therefore, carbon-based emulsifiers with considerable ductility and low viscosity are required. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that a large number of branched points in the molecule can unexpectedly improve ductility relative to the corresponding linear (i.e., unbranched) molecule, as the stacking forces and intermolecular forces are sufficient to produce significant differences. Therefore, branched carbon-based emulsifiers were chosen for this study.

[0125] Squalane was chosen for its overall smoothness and spreadability, moderate duration of action, and smooth texture without excessive greasiness. The molecule has six branching points (six evenly spaced methyl groups) and a medium molecular weight. However, using squalane alone makes the formulation slightly too oily and lacking in cushioning, as shown in Table X, Experiment 2.

[0126] Experiment 1 used branched renewable hydrocarbons (C9-12 alkanes and C15-19 alkanes) because they are both fast-evaporating and lightweight. However, it was observed that when used alone, the effect lasted far too long, had very little buffering effect, and left a dry and "tight" feeling.

[0127] Pentaerythritol is a unique polyol because it contains four -OH groups, each of which can react with fatty acids to form pentaerythritol esters. Due to their branching, these esters have a high molecular weight but remain liquid and easy to apply. For example, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate contains four independent C:18 chains, each with its own branching point. When mixed with lighter, more volatile emollients, these esters provide a richer feel and excellent cushioning, increasing the overall duration of effectiveness. When used alone, as shown in Experiment 3, the overall feel is too heavy and rich, and the duration of effectiveness is poor when used alone.

[0128] However, when squalane, branched hydrocarbons, and pentaerythritol esters are mixed together (as shown in Table 2, Experiment 7), the mixture exhibits a balance of the important sensory properties required to replace silicone.

[0129] Surprisingly, this renewable carbon-based emollient blend exhibits positive sensory properties similar to silicone-containing formulations, maintaining a low stickiness even in the presence of high levels (>10%) of active ingredients and glycerin. The low greasiness achieved with this emollient blend is another benefit, as carbon-based oils are generally perceived as greasier than silicones.

[0130] While the present invention has been described with reference to preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art will understand that various modifications can be made and equivalents can be substituted for elements therein without departing from the scope of the invention. Furthermore, various modifications can be made to adapt particular situations or materials to the teachings of the invention without departing from the basic scope of the invention. Therefore, the invention is not intended to be limited to the specific embodiments disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out the invention, but rather the invention will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: d. Squalene; e. At least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon; f. at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester; and The cosmetic composition described herein is substantially silicone-free.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the squalene content is from about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one bio-based branched alkane is selected from the group consisting of: C9-12 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes, C15-23 alkanes, branched isomers of undecane, branched isomers of tridecane, and mixtures thereof.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the content of the at least one bio-based branched alkane is from about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the content of the at least one bio-based branched alkane is from about 0.5 to about 18 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester is selected from the group consisting of: pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; dipentaerythritol hexacaprylate / hexadecanoate; pentaerythritol distearate; dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol isostearate / decanoate / caprylate / adipate; pentaerythritol tetrabenzyl ester; pentaerythritol tetralaurate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; and mixtures thereof.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of the at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester is from about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester is from about 0.15 to about 18 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is silicone-free.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising water.

11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the water content is at least 2% based on the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the water content is from about 2% to about 90% based on the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprises one or more additional components selected from the following active ingredients: humectants, antibacterial agents, antioxidants, preservatives, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ultraviolet filters, plant extracts; dyes / pigments, fillers, thickeners, polymers, penetrants, fragrances, dispersants, film-forming agents; ceramides; opacifiers; and combinations thereof.

14. A method of treating skin, comprising applying the cosmetic composition of claim 1 to the skin.

15. A cosmetic composition comprising: d. Squalene, about 0.1% to about 20 wt.%; e. at least one bio-based branched hydrocarbon, ranging from about 0.1% to about 20 wt.%; f. at least one bio-based pentaerythritol ester, in amounts from about 0.1% to about 20 wt.%; and The cosmetic composition described herein is substantially free of silicone; and All weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

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