Bionic self-assembly two-phase sugar ester mask with extremely simple process and preparation method of bionic self-assembly two-phase sugar ester mask

Abstract

The invention discloses a bionic self-assembly two-phase sugar ester facial mask with an extremely simple process and a preparation method of the bionic self-assembly two-phase sugar ester facial mask. The mask contains an independent water phase and an oil phase in a weight ratio of (4: 1)-(6: 1), the oil phase adopts mannosylerythritol lipid from biological fermentation as a unique emulsifier, and the component is creatively applied to a double-cavity oil emulsion mask system. The preparation method does not need high-speed shearing emulsification, and only needs normal-temperature stirring to respectively prepare a water phase and an oil phase, the water phase and the oil phase are independently subpackaged, and during use, water and oil are instantly mixed to form a short-time stable semi-emulsification system. The problems that a traditional emulsion mask is complex in process and sticky and greasy in skin feeling are solved, the self-assembly and phospholipid-like characteristics of glycolipid are utilized, unification of high stability, mildness, no irritation and excellent moisturizing and repairing effects of the product is achieved, meanwhile, production energy consumption is reduced, and the composition is suitable for nursing of various skin types.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetic technology, specifically to a minimally invasive biomimetic self-assembled biphasic glycolipid facial mask and its preparation method. It particularly focuses on a minimally invasive biphasic facial mask using biosynthesized naturally derived glycolipids as oil-phase emulsifiers. This is an upgrade and improvement of the existing semi-emulsified biphasic facial mask formulation system, and is suitable for the research and development and production of moisturizing and repairing facial mask products for various skin types. Background Technology

[0002] As a mainstream facial skincare cosmetic, the moisturizing and hydrating effect of face masks is one of the core demands of consumers, and the addition of oil-based ingredients is a key means to ensure this effect. Currently, conventional lotion-type moisturizing face masks on the market often need to add a high proportion of oil-phase ingredients to achieve ideal moisturizing effects, but increasing the proportion of oil phase will directly lead to a decrease in the stability of the mask essence system.

[0003] To maintain the stability of lotion mask systems and avoid issues such as water-oil separation and emulsion droplet sedimentation, most manufacturers choose to increase the amount of thickener added. However, excessive thickener addition can lead to two major drawbacks: first, the mask essence becomes thick and sticky on the skin, easily leaving residue after application, affecting the user experience; second, some thickener ingredients can irritate sensitive skin, increasing the risk of skin allergies, making it difficult to balance product efficacy, stability, and gentleness.

[0004] To address these issues, the industry has gradually seen the emergence of biphasic masks that are packaged and stored separately for both water and oil phases. These masks allow the water and oil phases to be mixed before use, reducing the system's stability pressure during storage and, to some extent, lowering the amount of thickener required. However, existing biphasic masks still primarily use chemically synthesized surfactants as emulsifiers. These emulsifiers not only have limited biocompatibility but also often require the addition of auxiliary surfactants to form a stable emulsion system, failing to achieve a balance between skin feel, gentleness, and efficacy. For example, Chinese patent application CN202211213376.1 discloses a semi-emulsified biphasic mask. While it solves the layering problem of traditional emulsion masks by separating the water and oil phases, its oil phase uses a chemically synthesized emulsifier, which suffers from insufficient biocompatibility, potential irritation to sensitive skin, and difficulty in balancing emulsion stability with the penetration of active ingredients.

[0005] Mannoerythritol esters (MELs), as naturally derived glycolipids obtained through biosynthesis, can form a stable sponge-like structure without the need for other surfactants. However, these glycolipids are currently rarely used in the emulsification systems of biphasic masks, and existing semi-emulsified biphasic masks have not achieved a breakthrough in formulation and process using these natural glycolipids as the core emulsifier. Therefore, there is an urgent need for a simplified biphasic mask process based on these emulsifiers to fill the technological gap in the industry. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The core objective of this invention is to address the technical shortcomings of existing biphasic masks, such as poor biocompatibility of emulsifiers, skin irritation due to their synthetic sources, the need for auxiliary emulsifiers to stabilize the system, and the complex process and heavy, sticky feel of traditional emulsion masks. This invention provides a simplified biphasic semi-emulsified mask with mannoerythritol esters derived from bio-fermentation as the core emulsifier and its preparation method.

[0007] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention adopts the following technical solution:

[0008] In one embodiment, the present invention provides a biphase semi-emulsified facial mask prepared by a simplified process, comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase, wherein the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the oil phase is 4:1 to 6:1 (e.g., 5:1); the aqueous phase, by weight percentage, comprises a thickener, a skin conditioning agent, an auxiliary agent, and the balance being water; the oil phase, by weight percentage, comprises a vegetable oil, a moisturizer, and an emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier is a glycolipid.

[0009] In another embodiment, the thickener in the aqueous phase of the present invention is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sclerotinia gum, Alcaligenes polysaccharide, carbomer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, acrylate / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylamide, and glycerol polyacrylate, and the weight percentage of the thickener in the aqueous phase is 0.2%.

[0010] In another embodiment, the skin conditioning agent in the aqueous phase of the present invention is selected from one or more of butylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, tremella polysaccharide, polyethylene glycol-8, trehalose, betaine, β-glucan, and 1,2-hexanediol, and the weight percentage of the skin conditioning agent in the aqueous phase is 10%.

[0011] In another embodiment, the adjuvant in the aqueous phase of the present invention comprises an antioxidant and a pH adjuster; the antioxidant is selected from one or more of tocopheryl acetate, capryloyl hydroxamic acid, p-hydroxyacetophenone, and vitamin C, and its total weight percentage in the aqueous phase is 0.06%-0.4%; the pH adjuster is selected from one or more of aminomethylpropanol, arginine, and tromethamine, and its weight percentage in the aqueous phase is 0.1%.

[0012] In another embodiment, the vegetable oil in the oil phase of the present invention is selected from one or more of camellia seed oil, Yunnan camellia seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, jojoba seed oil, grape seed oil, peony seed oil, olive fruit oil, and sunflower seed oil.

[0013] In another embodiment, the vegetable oil in the oil phase of the present invention is a combination of jojoba seed oil and grape seed oil, with a weight ratio of 1:(0.5-2).

[0014] In another embodiment, the emollient in the oil phase of the present invention is selected from one or more of the following: caprylic / capric triglyceride, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprylate, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyl dodecyl alcohol, isododecane, dioctyl carbonate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexadecane, and C12-15 benzoyl alcohol.

[0015] In another embodiment, the emollient in the oil phase of the present invention is a combination of caprylic / capric triglyceride and squalane in a weight ratio of (7-15):1.

[0016] In another embodiment, the emulsifier in the oil phase of the present invention is mannose erythritol ester, and its weight percentage in the oil phase is 0.4%.

[0017] In one embodiment, the present invention further includes a method for preparing the biphasic semi-emulsified facial mask, comprising the following steps: S1, aqueous phase preparation: water, thickener, and skin conditioning agent are mixed evenly, then an auxiliary agent is added and stirred until the system is homogeneous to obtain an aqueous phase; S2, oil phase preparation: vegetable oil, emollient, and emulsifier are stirred and mixed until the system is homogeneous to obtain an oil phase.

[0018] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0019] (1) Significantly improved mildness: The biocompatibility of mannose erythritol lipids derived from bio-fermentation is excellent. Patch test showed that the subjects had no adverse reactions such as skin redness, swelling and itching. Compared with the synthetic emulsifier control group, the risk of skin irritation is reduced, making it suitable for sensitive skin.

[0020] (2) Outstanding emulsification stability: The self-assembly characteristics of glycolipids can form a stable sponge structure. After water and oil are mixed, a uniform semi-emulsion state can be formed, which meets the requirements of the mask application time and there is no oil droplet separation or layering phenomenon.

[0021] (3) Enhanced moisturizing and repairing effects: The high proportion of oil and glycolipid phospholipids in the oil phase work together to form a stable sponge structure, stabilize the emulsion system, and promote the absorption of active ingredients in the essence, providing a water-locking barrier for the skin and enhancing the moisturizing and repairing effects of the formula. After application, the skin's moisture content increases, and the water-locking effect is also improved compared to existing dual-phase masks.

[0022] (4) Refreshing and comfortable to the skin: The water-oil separation design combined with the natural sugar lipid emulsification system avoids the heavy and sticky feeling caused by synthetic emulsifiers and excessive thickeners. After application, the skin is refreshed and there is no residue, which significantly improves user acceptance.

[0023] (5) Production and cost advantages: The extremely simple process requires no special equipment, reduces production energy consumption, and eliminates the need for auxiliary emulsifiers, resulting in a double reduction in raw material and process costs, and has the potential for large-scale production. Detailed Implementation

[0024] The present invention will be further described in detail below with reference to specific embodiments. These embodiments are only used to explain the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Unless otherwise specified, the experimental methods used in the following embodiments are conventional methods; the materials and reagents used are commercially available unless otherwise specified.

[0025] Example: Preparation of a biphasic semi-emulsion facial mask

[0026] 1.1 Raw material ratio

[0027] Aqueous phase (25g): Water 22.31g, Butylene glycol 2.5g, Carbomer 0.05g, Capryloyl hydroxamic acid 0.015g, 1,2-Hexanediol 0.1g, Aminomethylpropanol 0.025g;

[0028] Oil phase (5g, core innovation): Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 2.98g, grape seed oil 1g, jojoba seed oil 0.75g, squalane 0.25g, bio-fermented mannose erythritol ester 0.02g (the only emulsifier in the oil phase), as shown in Table 1.

[0029] Table 1. Formulation of the biphase semi-emulsion facial mask of the present invention

[0030]

[0031] 1.2 Preparation process

[0032] The weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the oil phase is 5:1.

[0033] The aqueous phase comprises, by weight percentage, thickeners, humectants, additives, and water to make up to 100%.

[0034] The thickeners include, but are not limited to, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sclerotinia gum, Bacillus thuringiensis polysaccharide, carbomer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, acrylate / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylamide, and glyceryl polyacrylate, among one or more of these.

[0035] The skin conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, one or more of butylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, tremella polysaccharide, polyethylene glycol-8, trehalose, betaine, β-glucan, and 1,2-hexanediol.

[0036] The adjuvants include, but are not limited to, one or more of preservatives, antioxidants, and pH adjusters; more preferably, antioxidants and pH adjusters.

[0037] The antioxidants include, but are not limited to, one or more of tocopheryl acetate, capryloyl hydroxamic acid, p-hydroxyacetophenone, and vitamin C; more preferably, capryloyl hydroxamic acid.

[0038] The pH adjuster includes, but is not limited to, one or more of aminomethylpropanol, arginine, and tromethamine.

[0039] The oil phase, by weight percentage, includes vegetable oil, emollients, and emulsifiers.

[0040] The vegetable oils include, but are not limited to, one or more of the following: camellia seed oil, Yunnan camellia seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, jojoba seed oil, grape seed oil, peony seed oil, olive fruit oil, and sunflower seed oil; more preferably, jojoba seed oil and grape seed oil.

[0041] The weight ratio of jojoba seed oil to grape seed oil is 1:(0.5-2).

[0042] The emollient is selected from one or more of the following: caprylic / capric triglyceride, triglyceride (ethylhexanoate), coconut oil-caprylate / capric acid ester, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprylate, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyl dodecyl alcohol, isododecane, dioctyl carbonate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexadecane, and C12-15 benzoyl alcohol.

[0043] The weight ratio of caprylic / capric triglyceride to squalane is (7-15):1.

[0044] The emulsifier is mannose erythritol ester.

[0045] This process employs a simplified, room-temperature stirring technique, eliminating the need for high-speed shearing. The steps include:

[0046] S1. Aqueous phase preparation: Mix water, thickener, skin conditioning agent, and other ingredients until homogeneous, then add the additives and stir until homogeneous.

[0047] S2. Oil phase preparation: The vegetable oil, emollient and emulsifier are stirred and mixed evenly to obtain the oil phase.

[0048]

[0049] 1.3 Performance Testing

[0050] 1.3.1 High Temperature Stability Test

[0051] The testing method was as follows: The facial mask liquid prepared in the example was placed at 48°C, and the changes in the appearance and odor indicators of the facial mask liquid were observed after 24 hours, 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks, 12 weeks, and 6 months. The results are recorded in the table below:

[0052]

[0053] As can be seen from the table, the mask liquid that is left to stand alone after being mixed evenly with high speed has poor long-term high temperature resistance and will show stratification at high temperatures.

[0054] 1.3.2 Stimulation test

[0055] The testing method was as follows: a trial survey was conducted. For each sample of the face mask prepared in Examples 1-6, 50 people were tested. Gauze was folded into a 1cm×1cm square and soaked in the face mask liquid (in Examples 1, 2, and 5, the aqueous and oil phases were mixed evenly before soaking the gauze). A plastic film was placed over the gauze and secured with a bandage. After 24 hours, the gauze was removed, and the skin reaction was observed. If there was no adverse reaction, the test was considered passed. The number of people who passed the patch test was recorded in the table below.

[0056]

[0057] The testing method was as follows: A blank group served as a negative control. Thirty participants meeting the inclusion criteria were selected, aged 18–35 years, including 12 males and 18 females. Procedure: Using a qualified patch applicator, approximately 0.02–0.03 g of the test substance was placed in the applicator using a closed patch test method. The applicator was then applied to the normal skin on the flexor side of the participant's forearm. The test substance was removed after 24 hours, and skin reactions were observed at 30 min, 24 h, and 48 h after removal. The degree of reaction at the test site is shown in the table below.

[0058]

[0059] Experimental results: As can be seen from the patch test results (as shown below), none of the subjects experienced adverse skin reactions from the masks prepared in the examples.

[0060]

[0061] 1.3.3 Skin feel test

[0062] Testing method: Questionnaire test

[0063] The testing method was as follows: a trial survey was conducted. For each mask sample prepared in Examples 1-6, 50 people were tested, with a minimum of 35 people tested after anomaly exclusion. The mask was not washed off after application, and a questionnaire was completed half an hour later. Stickiness refers to the degree of stickiness perceived by the tester. 0-2 points indicates no stickiness, 2-4 points indicates slightly sticky, 4-6 points indicates moderate stickiness, 6-8 points indicates strong stickiness, and 8-10 points indicates very strong stickiness. Irritation refers to the degree of irritation perceived by the tester. 0-2 points indicates no irritation, 2-4 points indicates slightly irritation (mild itching), 4-6 points indicates irritation (significant itching), 6-8 points indicates strong irritation (mild stinging), and 8-10 points indicates very strong irritation (significant stinging). Overall experience refers to the tester's satisfaction with the sample. 0-2 points indicates very dissatisfied, 2-4 points indicates dissatisfied, 4-6 points indicates basically satisfied, 6-8 points indicates fairly satisfied, and 8-10 points indicates very satisfied. The trial effect was assessed using subjective scoring (1-10 points). The average score of the valid scores was calculated and recorded in the table below:

[0064]

[0065] As can be seen from the table, no emulsifier was added in the second group, so the water and oil phases did not mix, and the oil phase did not mix with the mask liquid, resulting in an oily feel on the skin. In the fifth group, the amount of emulsifier added was small, resulting in a sticky feel on the skin.

[0066] 1.3.4 Moisturizing effect test

[0067] Testing instrument: Moisture testing probe.

[0068] Test Method: Each sample was tested on 50 participants, with at least 35 participants after anomaly exclusion. Before the test, participants cleansed their faces with a dry tissue and sat quietly for 30 minutes in a temperature- and humidity-controlled room (22±1℃, 50±5%), maintaining a relaxed state. Skin moisture content was tested on the cheek area. Participants applied the test product to the test area, left it on for 20 minutes, then washed it off and dried. Skin moisture content was measured at 30 minutes, 2 hours, and 4 hours after application and compared with pre-application data. The average moisture content of all participants was taken. The results in the table below show that the sixth group, without an oil phase, lacked the moisturizing effect of oil. Although it felt refreshing, the moisturizing effect was significantly less than that of the group with an oil phase.

[0069]

[0070] Test results confirm that the formulation of this invention, which uses bio-fermented glycolipids as the sole emulsifier, is significantly superior to existing synthetic emulsifier systems and emulsifier-free systems in terms of mildness, stability, moisturizing efficacy, and skin feel.

[0071] Although the present invention has been disclosed above with reference to preferred embodiments, it is not intended to limit the present invention. Anyone skilled in the art can make various modifications and alterations without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, the scope of protection of the present invention should be defined by the claims.

Claims

1. A biphase semi-emulsion facial mask prepared using a minimally invasive process, characterized in that, It includes an aqueous phase and an oil phase, wherein the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the oil phase is 4:1 to 6:1; the aqueous phase contains, by weight percentage, a thickener, a skin conditioning agent, an auxiliary agent, and the balance being water; the oil phase contains, by weight percentage, vegetable oil, a moisturizer, and an emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier is a glycolipid.

2. The biphase semi-emulsion mask according to claim 1, characterized in that, The thickener in the aqueous phase is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sclerotinia gum, Alcaligenes polysaccharide, carbomer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, acrylate / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylamide, and glycerol polyacrylate, and the weight percentage of the thickener in the aqueous phase is 0.1% to 1%.

3. The biphase semi-emulsion mask according to claim 1, characterized in that, The skin conditioning agent in the aqueous phase is selected from one or more of butylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, tremella polysaccharide, polyethylene glycol-8, trehalose, betaine, β-glucan, and 1,2-hexanediol, and the weight percentage of the skin conditioning agent in the aqueous phase is 0.01-15%.

4. The biphase semi-emulsion mask according to claim 1, characterized in that, The additives in the aqueous phase include antioxidants and pH adjusters; the antioxidants are selected from one or more of tocopheryl acetate, capryloyl hydroxamic acid, p-hydroxyacetophenone, and vitamin C, and their total weight percentage in the aqueous phase is 0.05%-0.5%; the pH adjusters are selected from one or more of aminomethylpropanol, arginine, and tromethamine, and their weight percentage in the aqueous phase is 0.01%-1%.

5. The biphase semi-emulsion mask according to claim 1, characterized in that, The vegetable oil in the oil phase is selected from one or more of the following: camellia seed oil, Yunnan camellia seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, jojoba seed oil, grape seed oil, peony seed oil, olive fruit oil, and sunflower seed oil.

6. The biphase hemiemulsion mask according to claim 5, characterized in that, The vegetable oil in the oil phase is a combination of jojoba seed oil and grape seed oil, with a weight ratio of 1:(0.5-2).

7. The biphase semi-emulsified facial mask according to claim 1, characterized in that, The emollient in the oil phase is selected from one or more of the following: caprylic / capric triglyceride, triglyceride (ethylhexanoate), coconut oil-caprylate / capric acid ester, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprylate, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyl dodecyl alcohol, isododecane, dioctyl carbonate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexadecane, and C12-15 benzoyl alcohol.

8. The biphase semi-emulsified facial mask according to claim 7, characterized in that, The emollient in the oil phase is a combination of caprylic / capric triglyceride and squalane in a weight ratio of (7-15):

1.

9. The biphase semi-emulsion mask according to claim 1, characterized in that, The emulsifier in the oil phase is mannose erythritol ester, and its weight percentage in the oil phase is 0.2% to 1%.

10. A method for preparing a biphase hemiemulsion facial mask as described in any one of claims 1-7, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1. Preparation of aqueous phase: After mixing water, thickener, and skin conditioning agent evenly, add the auxiliary agent and stir until the system is homogeneous to obtain the aqueous phase; S2. Preparation of oil phase: Mix vegetable oil, emollient and emulsifier until the system is homogeneous to obtain oil phase.

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