Processing method of weft-wise elastic polyester fabric with high dimensional stability

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a processing method of a weft-wise elastic polyester fabric with high dimensional stability. Comprising the following working procedures of gray fabric weaving, desizing, boiling-off, bleaching, mangling and dyeing, dyeing and baking, tentering and rolling. In the gray fabric weaving process, elastic polyester filament yarns are adopted in the weft direction, the elastic polyester filament yarns are twisted, and the twist degree is 12-20 twists per inch; and the weft elastic polyester filament yarns are steamed at 125-130 DEG C after being twisted. According to the method, a systematic solution is formed through triple technology combination of releasing yarn stress through cooperation of twisting and steaming, eliminating internal stress of the fabric through precise high-temperature baking and assisting stability of a mechanical structure through a special softening agent, the problem that the multi-dimensional size of the weft-wise elastic polyester fabric is unstable is solved synergistically from the source, and the weft-wise elastic polyester fabric is more stable. The method has outstanding creativity, practicability and a remarkable quality improvement effect.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of textile printing and dyeing technology, specifically relating to a processing method for weft-stretch polyester fabrics with high dimensional stability. Background Technology

[0002] As consumers increasingly demand comfort, fit, and shape retention in clothing, elastic fabrics have become one of the mainstream products in the textile market. Among them, weft-stretch polyester fabrics, due to their excellent longitudinal softness and transverse elasticity, are widely used in trousers, skirts, sportswear, casual wear, and shirts, providing a good wearing experience while also possessing the inherent advantages of polyester fibers such as high strength, good wrinkle resistance, and easy washing and quick drying.

[0003] However, weft-stretch polyester fabrics have long faced severe challenges in dimensional stability during processing and use, which has become a key technical bottleneck restricting their high-end applications. Firstly, polyester has a large and unstable heat shrinkage rate. Polyester is a thermoplastic fiber, and the elastic yarns have internal stress during spinning and weaving. During high-temperature finishing processes such as dyeing and setting, the large molecular chain segments within the fiber rearrange, causing unpredictable shrinkage during subsequent storage, ironing, or washing, resulting in garment deformation and inaccurate sizing. Secondly, controlling the width of polyester-containing fabrics is difficult. Under the wet and hot conditions of dyeing and finishing, the weft-stretch yarn is prone to shrinkage, leading to drastic changes in fabric width. Forcibly stretching it to the finished width may damage elasticity due to excessive tension or cause problems such as curling edges and weft skew, affecting production efficiency and the consistency of finished product quality. Finally, shrinkage rate, especially warp shrinkage rate, is difficult to meet standards. To stabilize the width, traditional processes often apply significant warp tension, which destroys the potential shrinkage of the warp yarns, resulting in excessive warp shrinkage after relaxation and washing.

[0004] Currently, the industry typically uses the following methods to address these issues: increasing the setting temperature and time, but this may lead to loss of elasticity, stiffness, and increased energy consumption; strengthening mechanical pre-shrinking treatment, but the effect is limited and it can easily cause structural damage to loosely woven fabrics; and using conventional softeners to improve the feel, but this has limited contribution to dimensional stability and can sometimes even exacerbate yarn slippage due to excessive lubrication.

[0005] Therefore, developing a processing method that can systematically and gently improve the dimensional stability of weft elastic polyester from the fiber level to the fabric level, while ensuring basic properties such as elastic recovery rate and hand feel, and achieving synergistic stability of heat shrinkage, width and shrinkage rate, has important industrial significance and economic value. Summary of the Invention

[0006] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, the purpose of this invention is to provide a processing method for weft-stretch polyester fabrics with high dimensional stability. Innovative yarn and finishing processes are employed to ensure that the fabric's heat shrinkage, width, and shrinkage rate meet customer standards, thereby improving the fabric's quality stability. The processing technology is convenient, provides stable quality, aligns with current energy-saving and environmentally friendly development concepts, and has promising prospects for widespread application.

[0007] The processing method for the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric of the present invention includes the following steps: Fabric weaving → desizing → scouring → bleaching → padding and dyeing → dyeing and baking → stretching → rolling; In the fabric weaving process, elastic polyester filament is used in the weft direction, and the elastic polyester filament is twisted with a twist of 12 to 20 twists per inch. After twisting, the weft-oriented elastic polyester filaments are steamed at 125~130℃ for 18~20 minutes.

[0008] The specific process of the desizing step is as follows: 3~5g / L of desizing enzyme, 2~4g / L of penetrant and 0.5~1g / L of refining enzyme; temperature is 90~96℃, time is 5~15min.

[0009] The specific process of the boiling and refining step is as follows: 10~20g / L NaOH, 4~6g / L penetrant and 3~6g / L degreasing agent; temperature is 98~100℃, time is 10~20min.

[0010] The specific process of the bleaching step is as follows: 2~8g / L H2O2 and 2~5g / L NaOH; temperature 98~100℃, time 10~15min.

[0011] The specific process of the pad-drying dyeing process is as follows: dye Crimson PUD: 0.5~20g / L, dye Foron BlueS-2RN: 0.5~20g / L, one dip and one pad, pad residue rate 50~55%, drying temperature 100~110℃.

[0012] The specific process of the dyeing and baking step is as follows: temperature is 190~195℃, time is 2.5min~3min.

[0013] The specific process of the stretching process is as follows: the fabric is immersed in the following treatment solution, the components of which include: softener TF-4550C: 10~20 g / L, softener 8150A: 5~10 g / L, and then dried.

[0014] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: (1) This invention significantly improves the thermal dimensional stability of the fabric. The invention performs a medium-low twisting of 12-20 twists / inch on the weft elastic polyester filament, which increases the cohesion and friction between fibers inside the yarn. Subsequently, a low-temperature steam treatment at 125-130℃ for 18-20 minutes is used. This mild humid heat treatment is equivalent to a "pre-relaxation" or "pre-shaping". It can promote the slow release of elastic components and internal stress in the elastic yarn without damaging the elasticity, so that the yarn is in a relatively stable state before entering the high-temperature dyeing and finishing process. The subsequent dyeing and baking at 190-195℃, which is higher than the glass transition temperature of polyester but lower than its critical point of excessive shrinkage, can further eliminate residual stress and make the fiber crystal morphology more perfect, thereby greatly reducing the shrinkage driving force of the finished fabric when it encounters heat stimulation.

[0015] (2) This invention achieves excellent width stability and control precision. After twisting and steam pretreatment, the shrinkage potential of the weft yarn is partially released, and the instantaneous shrinkage force during the wet dyeing and finishing process is weakened. This allows the fabric to be slowly stretched to the target width with smaller and more uniform tension during the stretching process, avoiding the problem of excessive tension caused by resisting huge shrinkage forces. The special softener combination applied during padding forms a flexible lubricating film at the fiber intersection after drying, which reduces the frictional displacement between yarns and gives them a certain "positioning" effect, helping to fix the fabric geometry, thereby achieving precise and stable width control.

[0016] (3) This invention ensures extremely low warp and weft shrinkage rates, especially improving warp shrinkage. The stability of the weft yarn itself directly reduces the stretching of the warp yarn, creating conditions for warp stability. Due to weft stability, the tension is reduced, meaning that the warp yarn is less overstretched during the setting process, and its stored shrinkage potential energy is reduced. Baking at 190~195℃ intensifies the movement of polyester fiber macromolecular chain segments and maintains them in a new, more stable form. This process, together with the pretreatment of twisting steam, achieves a deep elimination of internal stress in both warp and weft directions of the fabric. The combination of these three factors fundamentally solves the problem of shrinkage after washing caused by residual tension.

[0017] (4) While improving stability, the present invention maintains the original performance and feel of the fabric. After treatment, the elastic recovery rate, softness, drape and other performance properties of the fabric are not damaged, thus achieving a balance between stability and comfort.

[0018] The entire process employs a low-temperature pre-relaxation and precise high-temperature setting approach to avoid overheating damage to the elastic fibers. The selected softener TF-4550C is a polyether and quaternary ammonium salt modified organosilicon polymer. The film formed by it and 8150A hydrogen-modified siloxane polyether copolymer is flexible and smooth, which not only helps with dimensional stability but also gives the fabric a lasting smooth and supple feel, overcoming the drawback of traditional setting methods that result in a stiff feel. Detailed Implementation

[0019] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the embodiments.

[0020] Unless otherwise specified, all raw materials used in the examples were commercially available.

[0021] The fabric softener TF-4550C was purchased from the Weifang branch of Chuanhua Zhilian Co., Ltd. Fabric softener 8150A was purchased from Qingdao Ounos Industry & Trade Co., Ltd.

[0022] The dye Crimson PUD was purchased from Shanghai Annoqi Group Co., Ltd.

[0023] The dye Foron Blue S-2RN was purchased from Angco Chemical (China) Co., Ltd.

[0024] The desiccant OPT-280 was purchased from Shijiazhuang Kunpu Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0025] The penetrant RAYCLEAN WA-M was purchased from Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0026] The refined enzyme 601L CONC was purchased from Tianjin Hongliyuan Industry and Trade Co., Ltd.

[0027] The degreasing agent TF-109H was purchased from the Weifang branch of Chuanhua Zhilian Co., Ltd.

[0028] Example 1 The processing method for the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric includes the following steps: Fabric weaving → desizing → scouring → bleaching → padding and dyeing → dyeing and baking → stretching → rolling.

[0029] 1) Fabric specifications: CM 50*T400(50D)*170*110*57 / 58: Warp yarns are 100% cotton yarn, 50-count; weft yarns are T400 elastic polyester, 50D; warp density is 170 ends / inch; weft density is 110 ends / inch; width: 57-58 inches; weave: 2 / 1 twill. The elastic polyester is twisted to 20 twists / inch before weaving, followed by steaming at 130℃ for 18 minutes.

[0030] 2) Desizing: 4 g / L desizing enzyme, 4 g / L penetrant and 0.5 g / L refining enzyme; temperature 90℃, time 15 min.

[0031] 3) Boiling: 10 g / L NaOH, 5 g / L penetrant and 3 g / L degreasing agent; temperature 98℃, time 20 min.

[0032] 4) Bleaching: 2 g / L H2O2 and 5 g / L NaOH; temperature 98℃, time 15 min.

[0033] 5) Pad-dry dyeing: Crimson PUD dye: 0.5 g / L, Foron Blue S-2RN dye: 20 g / L, one dip and one pad, with a padding rate of 50%, and a drying temperature of 110℃.

[0034] 6) Dyeing and baking: temperature 195℃, time 2.5min.

[0035] 7) Stretching: After dyeing and baking, the fabric is dipped and rubbed with the following treatment solution, two dips and two rubs, with a residual rate of 65%. The treatment solution consists of: softener TF-4550C: 10 g / L and softener 8150A: 5 g / L. The above components are fully dissolved in water and mixed evenly to obtain the treatment solution, which is then dried at 120℃.

[0036] 8) After stretching, roll up the fabric and inspect it for heat shrinkage, shrinkage and width.

[0037] Example 2 The processing method for the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric includes the following steps: Fabric weaving → desizing → scouring → bleaching → padding and dyeing → dyeing and baking → stretching → rolling.

[0038] 1) Fabric structure specifications: C / T / LYOCELL50*SORONA100D*155*110*57 / 58: Warp yarn is a 50-count blended yarn of 30% cotton, 40% polyester, and 30% lyocell; weft yarn is SORONA PTT elastic polyester 100D; warp density is 155 ends / inch; weft density is 110 ends / inch; width: 57-58 inches; weave: 4 1 / 12 twill. The elastic polyester is twisted to 15 twists / inch before weaving, followed by steaming at 127℃ for 19 minutes.

[0039] 2) Desizing: 3 g / L desizing enzyme, 2 g / L penetrant and 1 g / L refining enzyme; temperature 92℃, time 10 min.

[0040] 3) Boiling: 15g / L NaOH, 6g / L penetrant and 5g / L degreasing agent; temperature 99℃, time 15min.

[0041] 4) Bleaching: 6 g / L H2O2 and 4 g / L NaOH; temperature 100℃, time 12 min.

[0042] 5) Pad-dry dyeing: Crimson PUD dye: 15g / L, Foron Blue S-2RN dye: 8g / L, one dip and one pad, pad residue 52%, drying temperature 100℃.

[0043] 6) Dyeing and baking: temperature 195℃, time 3min.

[0044] 7) Stretching: After dyeing and baking, the fabric is dipped and rubbed with the following treatment solution, two dips and two rubs, with a residual rate of 60%. The treatment solution consists of: softener TF-4550C: 20 g / L and softener 8150A: 8 g / L. The above components are fully dissolved in water and mixed evenly to obtain the treatment solution, which is then dried at 120℃.

[0045] 8) After stretching, roll up the fabric and inspect it for heat shrinkage, shrinkage and width.

[0046] Example 3: The processing method for the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric includes the following steps: Fabric weaving → desizing → scouring → bleaching → padding and dyeing → dyeing and baking → stretching → rolling.

[0047] 1) Fabric structure specifications: C / T80 / 2*SORONA75D*150*100*57 / 58: Warp yarn is 50% cotton and 50% polyester blended yarn, 50-count; weft yarn is SORONA PTT elastic polyester 75D; warp density is 150 ends / inch; weft density is 100 ends / inch; width: 57-58 inches; weave: 2 / 2 twill. Before weaving, the elastic polyester is twisted to 18 twists / inch, and then steamed at 125℃ for 20 minutes.

[0048] 2) Desizing: 5 g / L desizing enzyme, 3 g / L penetrant and 1 g / L refining enzyme; temperature 96℃, time 5 min.

[0049] 3) Boiling: 20g / L NaOH, 4g / L penetrant and 6g / L degreasing agent; temperature 100℃, time 10min.

[0050] 4) Bleaching: 8 g / L H2O2 and 2 g / L NaOH; temperature 99℃, time 10 min.

[0051] 5) Pad-dry dyeing: Crimson PUD dye: 20g / L, Foron Blue S-2RN dye: 0.5g / L, one dip and one pad, with a padding rate of 55%, and a drying temperature of 105℃.

[0052] 6) Dyeing and baking: temperature 190℃, time 3min.

[0053] 7) Stretching: After dyeing and baking, the fabric is dipped in the following treatment solution, two dips and two nips, with a nip-off rate of 62%. The treatment solution consists of: softener TF-4550C: 15 g / L and softener 8150A: 10 g / L. The above components are fully dissolved in water and mixed evenly to obtain the treatment solution, which is then dried at 120℃.

[0054] 8) After stretching, roll up the fabric and inspect it for heat shrinkage, shrinkage and width.

[0055] Comparative Example 1: Based on Example 1, the elastic polyester filament yarn was changed to be untwisted.

[0056] Comparative Example 2: Based on Example 2, the elastic polyester filament yarn was replaced with non-steamed yarn.

[0057] Comparative Example 3: The baking temperature was changed to 180℃ based on Example 2.

[0058] Comparative Example 4: TF-4550C was removed from Example 3.

[0059] The fabrics obtained in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were tested for heat shrinkage, shrinkage, and width. Heat shrinkage was tested according to GB / T17031, shrinkage according to GB / T 8628-2013, and width according to GB / T 4666-2009.

[0060] The feel test was conducted by touching the surface. Three people touched the surface and gave a score, and the average score was taken. The more asterisks (*), the softer the surface felt.

[0061] The test results for the fabric properties are shown in Table 1 below: Table 1. Test results for various fabric properties

Claims

1. A method for processing a weft-stretch polyester fabric with high dimensional stability, characterized in that, The process includes the following steps: Fabric weaving → desizing → scouring → bleaching → padding and dyeing → dyeing and baking → stretching → rolling; In the fabric weaving process, elastic polyester filament is used in the weft direction, and the elastic polyester filament is twisted with a twist of 12 to 20 twists per inch. The weft-oriented elastic polyester filaments are twisted and then steamed at 125~130℃.

2. The processing method of the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The steaming time for the twisted polyester filament is 18-20 minutes.

3. The processing method of the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The specific process of the desizing step is as follows: 3~5g / L of desizing enzyme, 2~4g / L of penetrant and 0.5~1g / L of refining enzyme; temperature is 90~96℃, time is 5~15min.

4. The processing method of the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The specific process of the boiling and refining step is as follows: 10~20g / L NaOH, 4~6g / L penetrant and 3~6g / L degreasing agent; temperature is 98~100℃, time is 10~20min.

5. The processing method of the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The specific process of the bleaching step is as follows: 2~8g / L H2O2 and 2~5g / L NaOH; temperature 98~100℃, time 10~15min.

6. The processing method of the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The specific process of the pad-drying dyeing process is as follows: immersion in dye liquor, one immersion and one pad, with a padding rate of 50-55%, and drying temperature of 100-110℃.

7. The processing method of the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The specific process of the dyeing and baking step is as follows: temperature is 190~195℃, time is 2.5min~3min.

8. The processing method of the high dimensional stability weft elastic polyester fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The specific process of the stretching process is as follows: the fabric is dipped and rolled twice with a treatment solution with a roll-off rate of 60-65%. The treatment solution consists of: softener TF-4550C: 10-20 g / L and softener 8150A: 5-10 g / L, and then dried.

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