Hair treatment composition
By using a hair treatment composition containing an amino acid blend of cysteine, histidine, and glycine before heat setting, the problem of hair heat damage before the use of heat setting tools is solved, achieving more effective protection.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- UNILEVER IP HLDG BV
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-01
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-12
AI Technical Summary
Existing technologies are inadequate in protecting hair from heat damage, especially in preventing damage before the use of heat styling tools.
An amino acid blend containing cysteine, histidine, and glycine is used as a hair treatment composition. It is applied to the hair and left for a certain period of time before heating to increase the denaturation temperature of the proteins inside the hair and reduce heat damage.
By increasing the denaturation temperature of proteins inside the hair, it significantly reduces or prevents heat damage, providing a higher level of protection.
Smart Images

Figure SMS_1 
Figure SMS_2 
Figure SMS_3
Abstract
Description
[0001] Invention Field This invention relates to compositions and methods for protecting hair, particularly the internal proteins of hair, from damage caused by exposure to heat by using hair treatment compositions containing amino acids, and to the use of such hair treatment compositions in protecting hair from heat damage. Background of the Invention Consumers regularly perform intensive treatments, conditioning, and styling on their hair to help them achieve the desired look. These procedures alter the chemical properties of hair keratin, leading to changes in both microscopic and macroscopic structure, which in turn alter the physical properties of the fibers: the result of these changes is often perceived by consumers as damage.
[0003] Hair is primarily composed of proteins, especially keratin. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) can be used to measure the denaturation temperature of internal hair proteins. The higher the temperature required to "melt" hair proteins (i.e., the more energy required), the stronger and more stable the protein structure. A decrease in the denaturation temperature of internal hair proteins is an indicator of protein damage and loss of bonds (including hydrogen bonds) and crystalline molecular structure. Therefore, it is necessary to raise or maintain the denaturation temperature of hair.
[0004] Consumers primarily use heat on their hair for styling purposes. Heat styling tools, such as hair dryers, straighteners, curling irons, and hot curlers, are commonly used to achieve a variety of hairstyles. For example, hair dryers quickly dry wet hair after washing by blowing hot air directly onto it. Straighteners, also known as flat irons, are used to create smooth, straight hair by applying heated flat plates to the hair shaft, while curling irons (also known as curling irons or curling sticks) are used to create curls or waves by wrapping sections of hair around heated tubes. Hot curlers enhance the volume and thickness of hair by winding hair around heated rollers and then allowing them to cool and set. Heat can be used to hold certain hairstyles, such as buns or braids, in place. Finally, some hair products can be activated with heat to enhance or trigger their effects.
[0005] Heat-protective products for hair are known to contain ingredients such as PVP / DMAPA acrylate copolymers, quaternary ammonium salt 70, and hydrolyzed wheat protein. These products are typically applied to the hair shortly before heat is applied. They generally work by forming a thin film on the hair surface that slows down heat conduction and makes heat distribution more even.
[0006] KR2019 0041626 discloses a composition comprising an amino acid complex, said complex comprising 0.3 to 5 parts by weight of any one or more of lysine, histidine, arginine, aspartic acid, threonine, serine, glutamic acid, proline, glycine, alanine, methionine, leucine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, or cysteine. This composition can be applied to hair prior to perming.
[0007] Despite existing technologies, there remains a need for better protection of hair from damage. Protection differs from repair because it helps prevent damage from occurring. Damaged hair requires repair, and repair treatments are typically applied to the hair after it has experienced damage. Conversely, protection is needed before damage occurs (by applying heat to the hair), thereby reducing or preventing damage from taking place. Therefore, the impact of the damage is minimized.
[0008] We have now discovered that hair can be protected from heat damage by applying a hair treatment composition containing an amino acid blend of cysteine, histidine, and glycine before applying heat to the hair. Invention Overview In a first aspect, the present invention provides a hair treatment composition comprising: (a) Surfactants selected from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants; and (b) An amino acid blend consisting of (i) cysteine, (ii) histidine and (iii) glycine; the composition contains no other amino acids.
[0010] A second aspect of the invention provides a method for protecting hair from heat damage, comprising applying the composition of the first aspect to the hair and then applying heat to the hair. The increase in denaturation temperature is compared to the same composition not containing an amino acid blend consisting of (i) cysteine, (ii) histidine, and (iii) glycine.
[0011] Preferably, the method includes the additional step of rinsing the composition off the hair.
[0012] Applying heat to the hair results in a decrease in the denaturation temperature of the proteins within the hair compared to before the application of heat. Compared to methods in which the composition of the first aspect is not applied to the hair before the application of heat, or methods in which an amino acid blend consisting of (i) cysteine, (ii) histidine, and (iii) glycine is not applied, the method of the present invention results in a smaller or no decrease in the denaturation temperature after the application of heat.
[0013] The method preferably further includes the step of leaving the composition on the hair for 2 seconds to 20 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 3 minutes, and most preferably 20 seconds to 1 minute. Preferably, the composition is then rinsed off the hair. This aims to provide a higher level of protection to the proteins inside the hair from heat-induced damage, thereby reducing the decrease in the denaturation temperature of the proteins inside the hair compared to the case where the composition is rinsed off immediately. The longer the composition remains on the hair, the greater the reduction in the decrease in the denaturation temperature of the proteins inside the hair.
[0014] Preferably, the method further includes the step of repeatedly applying the composition to the hair. Preferably, the step of applying the composition to the hair is repeated in subsequent treatments, and repeated 1 to 10 times. This can provide greater growth in terms of protecting the internal proteins of the hair. This can be demonstrated by a further reduction in the magnitude of the decrease in the denaturation temperature of the internal proteins of the hair after heat application.
[0015] In the method of this invention, heat is applied to the hair using heat setting. The tools used in heat setting are preferably selected from hair dryers, straighteners, curling irons / curling irons, and hot curling irons.
[0016] In the method of the present invention, where the composition of the first invention is provided first as a shampoo and then as a conditioner, it is preferable to use the shampoo and conditioner sequentially before applying heat to the hair.
[0017] A third aspect of the invention provides the use of a blend of (i) cysteine, (ii) histidine, and (iii) glycine for protecting hair from heat damage. Preferably, the blend of (i) cysteine, (ii) histidine, and (iii) glycine is present in the composition of the first aspect. This use provides a progressively increasing level of protein protection, as defined above, upon repeated use.
[0018] A third aspect of the invention provides a reduction in the decrease in the denaturation temperature of proteins within the hair when heat is applied, compared to applications where the blend of cysteine, histidine, and glycine is not applied to the hair before heat is applied. Preferably, the blend of cysteine, histidine, and glycine is present in the composition of the first aspect.
[0019] In the context of this invention, native hair refers to hair that has not undergone heavy physical and / or chemical treatments (e.g., bleaching, dyeing, perming, reduction treatment, heat treatment, and intense and / or prolonged exposure to solar radiation); nor does it exhibit characteristics characteristic of damaged hair (e.g., split ends and / or excessive dryness and / or increased surface friction compared to hair with a persistent low level of damage). Native hair includes hair with a persistent low level of damage throughout its natural hair life cycle. Sources of low-level damage may include, but are not limited to, washing, brushing, combing, and natural processes such as limited photodegradation. That is, no heavy physical and / or chemical treatments have been performed. Invention Details The compositions according to the invention are preferably formulated as shampoos or conditioners for hair treatment, followed by rinsing.
[0021] In the preparation of the compositions of the present invention, each amino acid may be added individually at different stages or at the same stage, for example, as a premix. Alternatively, two or three amino acids may be premixed before addition. For example, they may be added as a dispersion in water or in combination with aromatic oils.
[0022] Amino acids (b) The amino acids used in the compositions of this invention are (i) cysteine, (ii) histidine, and (iii) glycine. The compositions do not contain any other amino acids. Except for blend (b), the compositions do not contain any other amino acids.
[0023] Amino acid mixtures are preferably used in solution or emulsion form. They can be dissolved or dispersed in a suitable solvent or carrier.
[0024] The amount of the amino acid mixture in the hair composition is preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, and most preferably 0.25% to 2% by weight.
[0025] The preferred weight ratio of cysteine:histidine:glycine is 2:1:1 to 1:2:1 to 1:1:2, and more preferably 1:1:1.
[0026] Amino acids including (i) cysteine, (ii) histidine and (iii) glycine are available from many suppliers, such as Kusuma Pharma and Ajinomoto co Inc. The treatment composition of the present invention is preferably a shampoo or a conditioner. The shampoo contains at least one anionic surfactant for cleaning hair, while the conditioner contains at least one cationic surfactant.
[0027] Shampoo compositions are typically water-based, meaning they use water or aqueous solutions or lyotropic liquid crystal phases as their main components.
[0028] Suitable, the shampoo composition contains 50 to 98% by weight, preferably 60 to 90% by weight, of water based on the total weight of the composition.
[0029] Shampoo compositions typically contain one or more cleaning surfactants.
[0030] Surfactants are compounds having both hydrophilic and hydrophobic portions, which function to reduce the surface tension of aqueous solutions in which they are dissolved. Shampoo compositions used in the methods of this invention typically contain one or more cleansing surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to hair. Cleansing surfactants can be selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic compounds and mixtures thereof, with anionic compounds being preferred.
[0031] The total amount of cleaning surfactant in the shampoo composition used in the present invention is generally 1 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably 2 to 40%, more preferably 4 to 25% of the total weight of the surfactant.
[0032] Non-limiting examples of cleaning surfactants include anionic cleaning surfactants, including: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates, N-alkylsarcosine salts, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, acyl amino acid-based surfactants, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl taurines, acyl glutamates, alkyl glycines and their salts, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium, and mono-, di-, and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups in the foregoing list typically contain 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and may be unsaturated. Alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts may contain 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.
[0033] Other non-limiting examples of cleaning surfactants may include nonionic cleaning surfactants comprising aliphatic (C8-C18) straight-chain or branched primary or secondary alcohols having an alkyl oxide, typically ethylene oxide, and generally having 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Other representative cleaning surfactants include mono- or dialkyl alkanolamides (examples include cocoyl alcoholamide and cocoyl isopropanolamide) and alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in this invention are commercially available and include, for example, those identified as Plantapon 1200 and Plantapon 2000 from BASF. Other sugar-derived surfactants that may be included in compositions used in this invention include C 10 -C 18N-alkyl (C1-C6) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as those described in, for example, WO 92 06154 and US 5 194 639. 12 -C 18 N-methylglucosamide and N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C 10 -C 18 N-(3-methoxypropyl)glucamide.
[0034] Other non-limiting examples of cleaning surfactants may include amphoteric or zwitterionic cleaning surfactants, including: alkylamine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulfobetaine (sulfobetaine), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoteric acetates, alkyl amphoteric propions, alkyl amphoteric glycinates, alkylamidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine, acyl taurates, and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have 8 to 19 carbon atoms.
[0035] Typical cleaning surfactants used in the shampoo compositions of the present invention include sodium oleate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, sodium lauryl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, sodium lauryl ether carboxylic acid and N-lauryl sarcosinate, sodium laureth sulfate, dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocoyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, and sodium cocoamphoacetate.
[0036] Preferred cleaning surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n)EO (where n is 1 to 3, preferably 2 to 3, and most preferably 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n)EO (where n is 1 to 3, preferably 2 to 3, and most preferably 3), sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid, cocoyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, and sodium cocoamphoacetate.
[0037] Any mixture of the aforementioned anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric cleaning surfactants may also be suitable, preferably wherein the ratio of the primary surfactant to the secondary surfactant is between 1:1 and 10:1, more preferably 2:1 to 9:1, and most preferably 3:1 to 8:1, based on the weight of the cleaning surfactant contained in the shampoo composition.
[0038] Cationic deposited polymers are used in the shampoo compositions of the present invention.
[0039] Suitable cationic deposited polymers can be cationically substituted homopolymers, or they can be formed from two or more types of monomers. The weight-average molecular weight (M) of the polymer... wThe molecular weight is typically between 100,000 and 3 million Daltons. The polymer has cationic nitrogen-containing groups, such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or mixtures thereof. If the polymer's molecular weight is too low, the conditioning effect will be poor. If it is too high, there may be a problem with high tensile viscosity, leading to stringiness of the composition.
[0040] Cationic nitrogen-containing groups are typically present as substituents on the total monomer units of cationic deposited polymers. Therefore, when the polymer is not a homopolymer, it can contain spaced non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Catalogue, Third Edition. The ratio of cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to obtain a polymer with a desired cationic charge density, typically 0.2–3.0 meq / gm. The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitable for determination by the Kjeldahl method as described in the Chemical Assays for Nitrogen Determination section of the United States Pharmacopeia.
[0041] Suitable cationic deposition polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functional groups with water-soluble spacer monomers, such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamide, alkyl (meth)acrylates, vinylcaprolactone, and vinylpyrrolidine. Alkyl and dialkyl-substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C7. 1-3 Alkyl groups. Other suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.
[0042] The cationic amine can be a primary, secondary, or tertiary amine, depending on the specific type of composition and the pH value. Generally, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred.
[0043] Amine-substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the form of amines and then converted to ammonium via quaternization.
[0044] Cationic deposited polymers may comprise a mixture of monomer units derived from amine- and / or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomers and / or compatible spacer monomers.
[0045] Preferred cationic deposition polymers are selected from polymers containing cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium, inorganic acid salts of aminoalkyl esters of homopolymers and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, cationic polyacrylamide, cationic polysaccharide polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0046] Suitable cationic deposition polymers (non-limiting examples) include: - Polymers containing cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium, including, for example, dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as polyquaternary ammonium salt 6 and polyquaternary ammonium salt 7, respectively. - Inorganic acid salts of aminoalkyl esters of homopolymers and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms (as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256). - Cationic polyacrylamide (as described in WO95 / 22311).
[0047] Other cationic deposition polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.
[0048] Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers for use in the compositions of the present invention include monomers of the following formula: AO-[RN + (R 1 (R) 2 (R) 3 )X - ], Wherein: A is a glucan residue, such as starch or cellulose glucan residue. R is an alkylene, oxoalkylene, polyoxoalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene, or a combination thereof. 1 R 2 and R 3 Independently representing alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl, each group contains a maximum of about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms in each cationic moiety (i.e., R) 1 R 2 and R 3 The total number of carbon atoms (the total number of carbon atoms) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.
[0049] Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts resulting from the reaction of hydroxyethyl cellulose with lauryl dimethylammonium-substituted epoxides, known in the industry (CTFA) as polyquaternary ammonium salt 24. These materials are available from Amerchol, for example, under the trade name Polymer LM-200.
[0050] Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418) and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581). Examples of such materials include the polymer LR and JR series from Dow, commonly referred to in the industry (CTFA) as polyquaternary ammonium salt 10.
[0051] A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer is cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (available from Rhodia under the JAGUAR trademark series). Examples of such materials are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14, and JAGUAR C17.
[0052] Any mixture of the above-mentioned cationic deposited polymers can be used.
[0053] Based on the total weight of the composition, the cationic deposited polymer is typically present in the shampoo composition used in the present invention at a level of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.02 to 1%, more preferably 0.05 to 0.8% of the total weight of the cationic polymer.
[0054] Compositions used in the methods and applications of this invention comprise a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acid, crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with hydrophobic monomers, copolymers containing carboxylic acid monomers and acrylates, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylates, heteropolysaccharide gums, and crystalline long-chain acyl derivatives and mixtures thereof. Long-chain acyl derivatives are ideally selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3-distearate are preferred long-chain acyl derivatives because they impart a pearlescent sheen to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is commercially available as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488, or Carbopol 493. Acrylic polymers crosslinked with multifunctional agents can also be used; they are commercially available as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941, and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer containing carboxylic acid monomers and acrylates is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from Goodrich.
[0055] Suitable cross-linking polymers of acrylic acid and acrylates are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. Suitable heteropolysaccharide gums are xanthan gums, such as xanthan gums that can be obtained as Kelzan mu.
[0056] A mixture of any of the above-mentioned suspending agents can be used. A mixture of cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and crystalline long-chain acyl derivatives is preferred.
[0057] Based on the total weight of the composition, the suspending agent is typically present in the shampoo composition used in the methods and applications of the present invention at a level of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 5%, more preferably 0.1 to 3% of the total weight of the suspending agent.
[0058] The composition used in the method of the present invention preferably further contains one or more emulsified siloxanes to enhance conditioning properties.
[0059] The emulsified siloxane is preferably selected from polydiorganosiloxane, siloxane rubber, amino-functionalized siloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0060] Suitable siloxanes include polydiorganosiloxanes, particularly polydimethylsiloxanes with the CTFA name dimethylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxyl-terminated groups are also suitable for compositions used in the methods of this invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners), with the CTFA name dimethylsiloxane alcohol. Siloxane rubbers with a slight degree of crosslinking are also suitable, as described, for example, in WO 96 / 31188.
[0061] The viscosity of the emulsified siloxane itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is typically at least 10,000 cst at 25°C. The viscosity of the siloxane itself is preferably at least 60,000 cst, most preferably at least 500,000 cst, and ideally at least 1,000,000 cst. For ease of formulation, the viscosity is preferably not more than 10. 9 cst.
[0062] Emulsified siloxanes used in shampoo compositions typically have a D90 siloxane droplet size of less than 30 micrometers, preferably less than 20 micrometers, more preferably less than 10 micrometers, and ideally 0.01 to 1 micrometer. Siloxane emulsions with an average siloxane droplet size (D50) of 0.15 micrometers are generally referred to as microemulsions.
[0063] The particle size of siloxanes can be measured using laser scattering technology, for example, using the 2600D particle size analyzer from Malvern Instruments.
[0064] Examples of suitable pre-emulsions include Xiameter MEM 1785 and microemulsion DC2-1865 from Dow Corning. These are emulsions / microemulsions of dimethylsiloxane alcohol. Crosslinked siloxane rubbers can also be obtained in a pre-emulsified form, which facilitates formulation.
[0065] Another preferred class of siloxanes for use in shampoos and conditioners included in the present invention are amino-functionalized siloxanes. "Amino-functionalized siloxane" refers to a siloxane containing at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine group or quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino-functionalized siloxanes include polysiloxanes with the CTFA designation "amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane".
[0066] Specific examples of amino-functionalized siloxanes suitable for use in this invention are amino silicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166 and DC2-8566 (all from Dow Corning).
[0067] Suitable quaternary siloxane polymers are described in EP-A-0 530 974. A preferred quaternary siloxane polymer is K3474 from Goldschmidt.
[0068] Emulsions of amino-functionalized silicone oils with nonionic and / or cationic surfactants are also suitable.
[0069] Preformed emulsions of amino-functionalized siloxanes are also available from silicone oil suppliers such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include the DC939 cationic emulsion and nonionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177, and DC2-8154 (all from Dow Corning).
[0070] The total amount of the siloxane emulsion is 0.01% to 10% by weight of the total composition, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight is a suitable level.
[0071] The composition used in the methods and applications of the present invention preferably contains a preservative. A preferred preservative is sodium benzoate.
[0072] If present, the preservative is preferably present in an amount of 0.01 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition, more preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, and most preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight.
[0073] In the case where the composition of the present invention is a conditioning agent, it is advantageously selected from rinsing hair conditioning agents, hair masks, leave-in conditioning compositions, and pretreatment compositions, more preferably from rinsing hair conditioning agents, hair masks, leave-in conditioning compositions, and pretreatment compositions, such as oil treatments, and most preferably from rinsing hair conditioning agents, hair masks, and leave-in conditioning compositions. The treatment composition is preferably selected from rinsing hair conditioning agents and leave-in conditioning agents.
[0074] The wash-off conditioner used in this invention is a conditioner that is typically left on wet hair for 1-2 minutes before rinsing.
[0075] The hair mask used in this invention is typically left on the hair for 3 to 10 minutes, preferably 3 to 5 minutes, and more preferably 4 to 5 minutes, before being washed off.
[0076] The leave-in conditioner used in this invention is typically applied to the hair and left on the hair for more than 10 minutes, preferably applied to the hair after washing and not washed off until the next wash.
[0077] The conditioning matrix contains cationic conditioning surfactants and fatty substances, preferably fatty alcohols.
[0078] The compositions according to the invention comprise one or more conditioning surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to hair.
[0079] Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used alone or in combination. Examples include quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants corresponding to the following general formulas: [N(R 1 (R) 2 (R) 3 (R) 4 )] + (X) - Where R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 Each is independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, hydroxyalkyl, aryl, or alkylaryl group having a maximum of 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion, such as those selected from halide ions (e.g., chloride ions, bromide ions), acetate ions, citrate ions, lactate ions, glycolate ions, phosphate ions, nitrate ions, sulfate ions, and alkyl sulfate ions (e.g., methyl sulfate ions).
[0080] In addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, aliphatic groups can contain ether bonds and other groups, such as amino groups. Aliphatic groups, for example, those with about 12 carbons or more, can be saturated or unsaturated.
[0081] Specific examples of such quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants of the above general formula are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, docosyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), hexadecylpyridine chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow trimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oleoylammonium chloride, and their salts, wherein the chloride ion is replaced by other halide ions (e.g., bromide ions), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, or alkyl sulfate.
[0082] In a preferred class of cationic surfactants of the above general formula, R 1 It is C 16 To C 22Saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated alkyl chains, and R 2 R 3 and R 4 Each is independently selected from CH3 and CH2CH2OH, with CH3 being preferred.
[0083] Specific examples of such preferred quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants are hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), and mixtures thereof.
[0084] Preferably, the quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant has a cation selected from hexadecyltrimethylammonium and dodecyltrimethylammonium.
[0085] Alternatively, primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines can be used in combination with acids to provide cationic surfactants suitable for use in this invention. The acid protonates the amine and forms an amine salt in situ within the hair care composition. Therefore, the amine is effectively a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudoquaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.
[0086] Suitable fatty amines of this type include amide amines of the following general formula: R 1 -C(O)-N(H)-R 2 -N(R 3 (R) 4 ) Where R 1 It is a fatty acid chain containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 It is an alkylene group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R 3 and R 4 Each is an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0087] Specific examples of suitable materials for the above general formula are stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitopropyl dimethylamine, palmitopropyl diethylamine, palmitopropyl diethylamine, palmitopropyl diethylamine, palmitopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamide propyl dimethylamine, arachidamide propyl diethylamine, arachidamide ethyl diethylamine, arachidamide ethyl dimethylamine and diethylaminoethyl stearamide.
[0088] Other commonly used compounds include dimethyl stearylamine, dimethyl soyamine, oyamine, tetradecylamine, tridecylamine, ethyl stearylamine, N-tartrate propylenediamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethyl stearylamine, and arachidonic docosylamine.
[0089] A particularly preferred option is stearamide propyl dimethylamine.
[0090] The conditioning surfactant is present in the composition at a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight of the composition, preferably at least 0.5%, more preferably at least 1%, even more preferably at least 2%, even more preferably at least 3% or even at least 4%, but generally not more than 9%, preferably not more than 8%, more preferably not more than 7%, even more preferably not more than 6%, even more preferably not more than 5%.
[0091] Fatty substances The compositions of the present invention comprise fatty substances. Preferably, the fatty substances are fatty acids or fatty alcohols, most preferably fatty alcohols. Preferred materials have a C8 to C8 content. 22 The length of the carbon-carbon chain.
[0092] It is preferred to use fatty substances and cationic surfactants in combination in conditioning compositions, as this results in the formation of a layered phase in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
[0093] Fatty substances contain 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and most preferably carbon (C). 16 To C 18 Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight-chain alkyl groups. Preferably, the alkyl group is saturated. Preferred examples of fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous because they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of the compositions used in this invention.
[0094] The content of fatty substances in the conditioning agent used in this invention is generally 0.01 to 10% of the weight of the composition, preferably 0.1 to 8%, more preferably 0.2 to 7%, and most preferably 0.3 to 6%.
[0095] The weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the fatty substance is suitably 1:1 to 1:10, preferably 1:1.5 to 1:8, and most preferably 1:2 to 1:5. If the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the fatty alcohol is too high, this may cause eye irritation. If it is too low, it may cause dryness in some consumers.
[0096] Preferred conditioning agents comprise a conditioning gel phase having few or no vesicle contents. Such conditioning agents and methods for their preparation are described in WO2014 / 016354, WO2014 / 016353, WO2012 / 016352 and WO2014 / 016351.
[0097] Based on the total weight of the composition, this conditioning gel phase comprises: i) 0.4 to 8% by weight of fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbons, ii) 0.1 to 2% by weight of a cationic surfactant, Furthermore, the composition imparts a draw mass of 1 to 250 g, preferably 2 to 100 g, more preferably 2 to 50 g, even more preferably 5 to 40 g, and most preferably 5 to 25 g to the hair treated with the composition.
[0098] Pull quality is the mass required to pull a strand of hair through a comb or brush. Therefore, the more tangled the hair, the greater the mass required to pull it through a comb or brush, and the higher the level of hair conditioning, the lower the pull quality.
[0099] Pull mass is the mass required to pull a hair bundle, for example, a hair bundle weighing 1 to 20 grams, 10 to 30 centimeters in length, and 0.5 to 5 centimeters in width, through a comb or brush. It is measured by first placing the hair bundle on the comb or brush so that 5 to 20 centimeters of hair hangs from the adhesive end of the hair bundle, and then adding weight to the hanging end until the hair bundle falls off the comb or brush.
[0100] Preferably, the weight of the hair bundle is 1 to 20 grams, more preferably 2 to 15 grams, and most preferably 5 to 10 grams. Preferably, the length of the hair bundle is 10 to 40 centimeters, more preferably 10 to 30 centimeters, and the width is 0.5 to 5 centimeters, more preferably 1.5 to 4 centimeters.
[0101] Most preferably, the pulling mass is the mass required to pull a hair bundle, for example, a hair bundle weighing 10 grams, 20 centimeters long and 3 centimeters wide, through a comb or brush, such as by first placing the hair bundle on the comb or brush so that 20 centimeters of hair hangs from the adhesive end of the hair bundle, and then adding weight to the hanging end until the hair bundle falls off the comb or brush.
[0102] The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise at least one inorganic electrolyte. The inorganic electrolyte provides viscosity to the composition. The aim is to separate the inorganic electrolyte from any inorganic electrolytes that may be present in the raw materials of the present invention.
[0103] Suitable inorganic electrolytes include metal chlorides (such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, zinc chloride, ferric chloride, and aluminum chloride) and metal sulfates (such as sodium sulfate and magnesium sulfate). Preferred inorganic electrolytes used in this invention include sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0104] The amount of inorganic electrolyte in the composition of the present invention is preferably 0.5 to 10%, more preferably 0.75 to 7%, even more preferably 1 to 5%, and most preferably 1 to 3% (based on the total weight of the composition by weight).
[0105] The compositions of the present invention may contain other ingredients for enhancing performance and / or consumer acceptability. These ingredients include, for example, fragrances, dyes and pigments, pH adjusters (e.g., organic acids, sodium hydroxide), pearlescent agents, opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, and antimicrobial agents. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount that effectively achieves its purpose. Generally, the content of each of these optional ingredients included is up to 5% of the total weight of the composition.
[0106] To avoid ambiguity, the word "contains" means "includes," but does not necessarily mean "composes of" or "consisting of." In other words, the steps, options, or alternatives listed do not need to be exhaustive.
[0107] The disclosure of the invention found herein is intended to cover all aspects present in mutually dependent claims, regardless of the fact that claims may exist without multiple dependencies or redundancy. Unless otherwise stated, numerical ranges expressed in the format “from x to y” should be understood to include both x and y. When specifying any range of values or quantities, any particular upper limit value or quantity may be associated with any particular lower limit value or quantity. Unless otherwise stated, all percentages and ratios contained herein are by weight. Various features of the invention mentioned in the foregoing sections, where appropriate, may be applied to other sections with the necessary modifications. Thus, features specified in one section may be suitably combined with features specified in other sections. Any section headings are added for convenience only and are not intended to limit this disclosure in any way.
[0108] Unless otherwise stated, all ratios, percentages, parts, etc. mentioned in this article are by weight.
[0109] Example Example 1: Shampoo composition 1 and comparative composition A according to the present invention The following shampoo compositions were prepared: Shampoo 1: Shampoo containing cysteine, histidine, and glycine Shampoo A: Same as Shampoo 1, but without amino acids.
[0110] Table 1: Composition of Shampoo 1 and Comparative Shampoo A according to the present invention
[0111] Shampoo A and 1 were prepared using the following methods: 1. In the composition according to the invention, amino acids are added to water in a suitable container under stirring.
[0112] 2. Then add carbomer, SPES and CAPB.
[0113] 3. Heat the mixture to 30°C and mix until homogeneous.
[0114] 4. Then add the guar gum polymer and mix.
[0115] 5. Add glycerin and PEG-45M, fragrance, siloxane and preservative.
[0116] 6. Adjust the pH value to pH 4 to 5.
[0117] 7. Then add salt and polypropylene glycol to adjust the viscosity as needed.
[0118] Example 2: Conditioner composition 1 according to the present invention and comparative conditioner A Conditioner 1: A conditioner containing cysteine, histidine, and glycine. Conditioner A: Same as Conditioner 1, but without amino acids.
[0119] Table 2: Composition of Conditioner 1 and Comparative Conditioner A according to the present invention
[0120] The conditioner was prepared using the following method: 1. Add water to a suitable container and heat to 80℃. 2. Then cetearyl alcohol and tertiary amine salt (TAS) are added together.
[0121] 3. Allow the formulation to cool, and add BTAC while stirring until it becomes opaque and thick.
[0122] 4. Add lactic acid and stir the preparation for another 10 minutes.
[0123] 5. Then turn off the heater and add quench water.
[0124] 6. Add amino acids.
[0125] 7. Then cool the mixture to 55°C. 0 Below C, and with the addition of preservatives and NaCl.
[0126] 8. Then add the remaining ingredients.
[0127] 9. Finally, mix the formulation under high shear for 5 minutes.
[0128] Example 3: Shampoo composition 1 according to the present invention, comparative shampoo A, and conditioning agent group according to the present invention. Hair was treated with compound 1 and contrast conditioner A. The hair was treated ten times with the above composition, followed by heat damage. The procedure is as follows.
[0129] Hair treatment Use virgin hair that has not undergone any physical or chemical treatments (including bleaching, coloring, perming, straightening, excessive UV exposure, or excessive heating). The hair used is dark brown European hair, with a bundle weight of 5 grams and a length of 10 inches. In these embodiments, this is referred to as virgin hair.
[0130] Hair is subjected to heat as follows: The hair strands are suspended on a stand and heat-set with a straightener set to 230°C. The straightener passes through the length of the hair from root to tip; each pass is exposed for 12 seconds. The hair is treated with 3 passes per session and cooled to room temperature before the next heat application. A total of 18 passes are performed on each strand.
[0131] Shampoo only Treat your hair with the shampoo composition (given above) using the following method: Hold the hair fibers under running water for 30 seconds, apply shampoo at a dosage of 0.1 grams of shampoo per gram of hair, and massage into the hair for 30 seconds. Remove excess foam by holding under running water for 30 seconds and repeat the shampooing stage. Rinse the hair under running water for 1 minute.
[0132] Conditioner only Treat hair with the conditioning composition (given above) using the following method: Hold the hair fibers under running water for 30 seconds, apply the conditioner at a dose of 0.2 grams per gram of hair, and massage it into the hair for 1 minute. Then rinse the hair under running water for 1 minute.
[0133] Table 3: Denaturation temperature of hair before and after 10 washes with shampoo 1 and comparative shampoo A according to the present invention.
[0134] The same letters indicate no significant difference It can be seen that for shampoo 1 containing amino acids, Td did not change after heat damage. For shampoo A which does not contain amino acids, Td decreased significantly, thus providing evidence that amino acids have a protective benefit.
[0135] Table 4: Denaturation temperature of hair before and after 10 washes with Conditioner 1 and Conditioner A.
[0136] It can be seen that for conditioner 1 containing amino acids, Td did not change significantly after heat damage. For conditioner A, which does not contain amino acids, Td decreased significantly. This illustrates the advantage of the present invention, namely, that amino acids impart a protective effect to hair during heat exposure.
[0137] Example 4: Commercially available conditioning products representing the prior art Lux CD Bath Glow Straight & Shine, a commercially available hair conditioner containing multiple amino acids, was obtained.
[0138] The ingredients listed on the packaging are as follows: Water, stearyl alcohol, glycerin, polydimethylsiloxane, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, DPG, paraffin, ammonia-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, lactic acid, C12-14 secondary-alkanol polyether-7, EDTA-2Na, cetrimonium chloride, PEG-7 propylheptyl ether, C12-14 secondary-alkanol polyether-5, tocopherol acetate, acetic acid, PEG-180M, hydrolyzed keratin pg-propylmethylsilanediol, butanediol, stearyl dimethylammonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, PCA-N a. Sodium lactate, Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide, Ectoin, Betaine, Arginine, Ethanol, Aspartic acid, Taurine, PCA, Alanine, Glycine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Lysine HCl, Histidine HCl, Isoleucine, Glutamic acid, Phenylalanine, Leucine, Histidine, Allantoin, Glutamine, Tyrosine, Cystine, Cysteine, Tryptophan, Methionine, Sodium benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Iodopropyl butylcarbamate, Potassium sorbate, Fragrance.
[0139] This product is used to treat heat-damaged hair. The hair is as described and has been heat-damaged as described in Example 3 above, and the hair is treated with a "conditioning agent only" regimen.
[0140] The denaturation temperature of the hair was measured before and after treatment. The results are shown in Table 5: Table 5: Denaturation temperatures of heat-treated hair before and after heat treatment, and of heat-treated hair before and after five washes with existing conditioning agents.
[0141] The same letter indicates no significant difference between Td. The decrease in Td after thermal damage indicates that the conditioner did not provide protection.
Claims
1. A hair treatment composition comprising: (a) Surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (b) An amino acid blend consisting of (i) cysteine, (ii) histidine, and (iii) glycine; and The composition does not contain other amino acids.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of (i):(ii):(iii) is 2:1:1 to 1:2:1 to 1:1:
2.
3. The composition of claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the amino acid blend is present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% of the total composition by weight.
4. The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, comprising a preservative, wherein the preservative is preferably sodium benzoate.
5. A method for protecting hair from heat damage compared to the same composition which does not contain an amino acid blend consisting of (i) cysteine, (ii) histidine and (iii) glycine, comprising applying the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 to the hair and then applying heat to the hair.
6. The method of claim 5, further comprising the step of leaving the composition on the hair for 2 seconds to 20 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 3 minutes, and most preferably 20 seconds to 1 minute.
7. The method of claim 5 or claim 6, further comprising the step of repeatedly applying the composition to the hair.
8. The method of claim 7, wherein the step of repeatedly applying the composition to the hair is performed in a subsequent treatment, and is repeated 1 to 10 times.
9. The method of any one of claims 5 to 8, wherein the heat damage is caused by using a heated styling tool, preferably selected from hair dryers, straighteners, curling irons, or perms and hot curlers.
10. The method of any one of claims 5 to 9, wherein the composition as defined in claims 1 to 4 is provided first as a shampoo, then as a conditioner, and used sequentially before heat is applied to the hair.
11. The use of a blend of cysteine, histidine, and glycine for protecting hair from heat damage, as demonstrated by the reduction in the denaturation temperature of the internal proteins of the hair when heat is applied, compared to the use in which the blend of cysteine, histidine, and glycine is not applied to the hair before heat is applied.
12. The use as described in claim 11, wherein the blend of cysteine, histidine, and glycine is present in the composition as defined in claims 1 to 4.
13. The use as claimed in claim 11 or claim 12, wherein the heat damage is caused by the use of a heated styling tool, preferably selected from hair dryers, straighteners, curling irons, or perms and hot curling irons.