Application of mogroside V in preparation of skin barrier repair cosmetics

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to application of mogroside V in preparation of skin barrier repair cosmetics, the mogroside V serves as an active ingredient, the purity of the mogroside V is not lower than 30%, and the mogroside V can be prepared into various cosmetic dosage forms such as toning lotion, facial masks and essence cream. The mogroside V has no significant toxicity to keratinocytes, can accelerate skin barrier repair by promoting cell migration, has significant antioxidant activity, and can scavenge free radicals, reduce oxidative stress injury and realize synergistic effects of barrier repair and oxidation resistance and aging resistance. Besides, mogroside V is a natural water-soluble component, can be stably dispersed in a water-based formula without a solubilizer, is free of thick and sticky feeling during use, and solves the problem of skin feeling pain points of traditional repairing components. The barrier damage problems of dry skin, redness, desquamation and the like can be improved in a targeted manner, and the application prospect is wide.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetic technology, specifically to the application of mogroside V in the preparation of skin barrier repair cosmetics. Background Technology

[0002] The skin barrier, primarily composed of the stratum corneum, is the skin's "protective defense line." Internally, it locks in moisture, maintains stable skin temperature and microecological balance; externally, it protects against the invasion of ultraviolet rays and harmful substances. Environmental pollution, excessive cleansing, irregular sleep patterns, and unhealthy diets can easily damage the skin barrier function, manifesting as dryness, tightness, sensitivity, redness, flaking, itching, stinging, and acne. Impaired skin barrier function accelerates skin aging and can trigger or exacerbate various inflammatory skin diseases, such as eczema, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis. Therefore, maintaining a healthy skin barrier function is fundamental for skin's antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging effects. Currently, barrier repair ingredients have enormous development value and a significant consumer market in the cosmetics industry. Among commonly used barrier repair ingredients in cosmetics, Centella asiatica extract is widely used, but it suffers from low water solubility and a tendency to create a heavy, sticky feeling when applied. Lipid-based ingredients such as ceramides and squalane have limitations in their single-function effects, limited improvement on inflammation-mediated barrier damage, and some components exhibit poor stability.

[0003] Mogroside V (MV), the main active ingredient of the medicinal and edible plant *Siraitia grosvenorii*, is a natural high-intensity sweetener. Due to its low-GI properties and well-defined anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities, it has been widely used in the food and health product industries. In recent years, its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and gentle conditioning effects in cosmetics have also been gradually recognized. While the derivative of MV, 11-O-mogroside V, has been reported for use in cosmetics, its core function is as a CB2 receptor agonist to improve UV-induced inflammation and aging; it does not involve skin barrier repair function, and its chemical structure and target are fundamentally different from MV. To date, no literature has reported on the direct repair effects of MV on the skin barrier (such as promoting keratinocyte migration and accelerating wound healing), and its application in barrier repair cosmetics remains a blank. Therefore, developing novel barrier repair cosmetics based on MV can not only fill the existing technological gap but also address the pain points of using traditional repair ingredients, thus having significant practical application value. Summary of the Invention

[0004] The purpose of this invention is to provide the application of mogroside V in the preparation of skin barrier repair cosmetics.

[0005] Specifically, the application is the use of mogroside V in the preparation of skin barrier repair cosmetics that promote keratinocyte migration.

[0006] Specifically, the cosmetics include toners, facial oils, serums, face creams, moisturizing lotions, face masks, sunscreens, and facial cleansers.

[0007] Specifically, the cosmetic contains mogroside V at a mass percentage of 0.001% to 1%.

[0008] Specifically, the cosmetics also include cosmetically acceptable excipients, such as solubilizers, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters, liposomes, thickeners, chelating agents, skin feel modifiers, surfactants, emulsifiers, fragrances, colorants, and other functional additives.

[0009] Specifically, the purity of mogroside V is not less than 30%.

[0010] The present invention also provides a cosmetic composition for repairing the skin barrier, comprising an effective amount of mogroside V as an active ingredient.

[0011] Specifically, the mass percentage content of mogroside V is 0.001% to 1%.

[0012] Specifically, the purity of mogroside V is not less than 30%.

[0013] Preferably, the purity of mogroside V is not less than 50%.

[0014] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0015] 1. The mogroside V described in this invention is a triterpenoid glycoside extracted from the medicinal and edible plant mogroside. It has no significant toxicity to keratinocytes, can promote keratinocyte migration, accelerate skin wound healing, and has the ability to repair the skin barrier.

[0016] 2. Monk fruit extract V is a natural water-soluble ingredient. Compared with traditional oil-soluble repair ingredients such as Centella asiatica extract, it does not have the disadvantage of low water solubility and will not produce a heavy or sticky feeling when added to cosmetics.

[0017] 3. The mogroside V in this invention not only has direct barrier repair effects but also significant antioxidant activity. It can effectively scavenge free radicals, reduce oxidative stress damage to the stratum corneum, and slow down the aging rate of the skin barrier. The synergistic effect of repair and anti-oxidation not only solves the current barrier damage problem but also maintains the long-term homeostasis of the skin barrier. Attached Figure Description

[0018] Figure 1 : Effect of different concentrations of V30 on the survival rate of HaCaT cells after 24 h of treatment; Figure 2 : Effect of different concentrations of V50 on the survival rate of HaCaT cells after 24 h of treatment; Figure 3 Effect of mogroside V on scratch repair in HaCaT cells (image). Figure 4 Monk fruit glycoside V on ABTS + Diagram illustrating the effects of free radical scavenging. Detailed Implementation

[0019] The following examples further illustrate specific implementations of the present invention, but the implementation and protection of the present invention are not limited thereto. It should be noted that any processes not specifically described in detail below are those that can be implemented or understood by those skilled in the art by referring to existing technology.

[0020] The materials and sources used in this invention include: (1) Sample Mogroside V30 and Mogroside V50 (i.e., mogroside V content is 30% and 50% respectively, hereinafter referred to as V30 and V50) (Guilin Rhein Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) (2) Main reagents PBS (MA0020, Meilun Biotechnology Co., Ltd.); DMEM high-glucose medium (MA0212, Meilun Biotechnology Co., Ltd.); Cell proliferation and toxicity assay kit (MA0218, Meilun Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) (3) Cells Human immortalized skin keratinocytes (HaCaT) were provided by the Cell Bank / Stem Cell Bank of the Chinese Academy of Sciences.

[0021] Example 1: Application of a barrier repair face cream formula containing mogroside V Formula (by weight percentage): Monk fruit glycoside V (V50): 0.08% Glycerin: 5.0% Sodium hyaluronate (low molecular weight): 0.2% Ceramide NP: 1.0% Cetearyl alcohol: 2.0% Plant-derived squalane: 6.0% Isonononyl isononanoate: 3.0% 1,3-Propylene glycol: 3.0% Xanthan gum: 0.1% Carbomer: 0.1% Phenoxyethanol (preservative): 0.4% Triethanolamine: 0.2% Deionized water: Balance Preparation method: Take the prescribed amount of deionized water, add glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, carbomer, xanthan gum, and sodium hyaluronate, stir well, heat to 50°C, and keep warm for 15 minutes to allow the components to fully dissolve and form a uniform and transparent aqueous phase; In a separate beaker, add plant squalane, isononyl isononanoate, and cetearyl alcohol, and place it in a 45°C constant temperature water bath; add 1.0g of ground ceramide NP and 0.5g of tocopheryl acetate, turn on magnetic stirring (200r / min), and stir for 5min until all oil phase components are completely dissolved to form a transparent and homogeneous oil phase; Keep the aqueous phase stirred (300 r / min), slowly add the oil phase dropwise to the aqueous phase, controlling the drop rate at 1 mL / min, and continue stirring for 2 min after the addition is complete to achieve initial emulsification; Turn on the homogenizer, adjust the speed to 6000 r / min, homogenize for 6 minutes, until the system forms a fine, milky white emulsion, and no oil droplets or particles are visible to the naked eye, and the texture is uniform; Cool down to below 35℃, slowly add the mogroside V solution dissolved in deionized water to the emulsion, turn on the magnetic stirrer (250 r / min), and stir for 3 minutes until uniform; Add phenoxyethanol solution and continue stirring for 3 minutes until completely dissolved; Use a pH meter to measure the pH value of the system, slowly add triethanolamine dropwise, adjust the pH to 5.5-6.5, and stir for 1 minute until homogeneous.

[0022] The prepared face cream was filtered through a 0.22μm filter into a sterile sample bottle, sealed, labeled, and stored at 4℃.

[0023] Experiment Example 1: Detection of the toxicity of mogroside V to HaCaT keratinocytes (1) HaCaT cell culture The cryovials containing HaCaT cells were quickly placed in a 37°C water bath and shaken continuously to thaw them completely within 1 minute. The cell suspension was then transferred to a 1.5 mL centrifuge tube and centrifuged at 1000 r / min for 1 minute at room temperature. The supernatant was discarded, and the cells were resuspended in 1 mL of high-glucose DMEM medium. The cells were then transferred to a 10 cm medium dish, and DMEM medium containing 10% FBS and 1% antibiotics was added. The mixture was then blown around and cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2 until the cells adhered. The medium was then changed and the cells were cultured for another 1 minute. The cells were passaged when the confluence reached 80%.

[0024] (2) Paving Count HaCaT cells at 1×10⁻⁶. 4 Cells were seeded at a density of / well in 96-well plates and incubated at 37°C in a 5% CO2 incubator for 24 h.

[0025] (3) Administration After cell adhesion, the cells were cultured in serum-free DMEM, and different concentrations of mogroside V sample solution were added. A blank control group was also set up, and the treatment time was 24 h.

[0026] (4) CCK-8 assay for cell viability Prepare DMEM medium containing 10% CCK-8 working solution, add 100 μL of reaction solution to each well, incubate at 37℃ for 1 h, and then detect the absorbance value at 450 nm wavelength to calculate cell viability.

[0027] (5) Data Analysis Prism software was used for graphing and data analysis. All data are expressed as mean ± SEM, n ≥ 3. ANOVA and Tunnett's test were used for comparisons among multiple groups; t-tests were used for comparisons between two groups. p <0.05, p <0.01, p A value <0.001 indicates that the difference between groups is statistically significant.

[0028] (6) Experimental results like Figure 1 , Figure 2 As shown, whether it is V30 or V50, the survival rate of HaCaT cells remained above 90% in the concentration range of 0-400 μg / mL, with no statistical difference compared with the blank control group (p>0.05), indicating that mogroside V has no significant cytotoxicity to keratinocytes in this concentration range.

[0029] Experiment Example 2: Detection of the effect of mogroside V on scratch repair in HaCaT cells (1) HaCaT cell culture Same as Experiment 1(1) (2) Paving HaCaT cells were used at a rate of 2 × 10 5 The wells were seeded at a density of / wells in 6-well plates and incubated at 37°C in a 5% CO2 incubator for 24 hours.

[0030] (3) Administration After cell adhesion, the cells were cultured in DMEM containing serum-free medium, with 200 μg / mL solution added. Medium containing 10% serum was used as a positive control. The cells were cultured in a 37℃, 5% CO2 incubator, and cell migration was recorded by photograph at 0, 18, and 24 h.

[0031] (4) Data Analysis Images were imported into ImageJ for quantitative analysis. Prism software was used for plotting and data analysis. All data are expressed as mean ± SEM, n ≥ 3. ANOVA and Tunnett's test were used for comparisons among multiple groups; t-tests were used for comparisons between two groups. p <0.05, p <0.01, p A value <0.001 indicates that the difference between groups is statistically significant.

[0032] (5) Experimental results Using a culture medium containing 10% serum as a positive control, the effect of MV on the migration ability of HaCaT cells was assessed by a cell scratch assay. The results are as follows: Figure 3 As shown in Table 1, Healing rate (%) = (Initial scratch width - scratch width at different time points) / Initial scratch width × 100%.

[0033] Table 1. Quantitative analysis of the effect of mogroside V on scratch repair in HaCaT cells.

[0034] Note: 1. Data are expressed as mean ± standard error (Mean ± SEM), n≥3; 2. Compared with the control group, p<0.05, p<0.01, p<0.001; ns indicates no significant difference (p>0.05); — indicates not applicable.

[0035] Results analysis: Compared with the blank control group, MV (V30 and V50) significantly promoted HaCaT cell migration at both 18h and 24h (p<0.001), and the healing rate at 24h was increased by more than 15 percentage points compared with the blank group. This confirms that MV has a clear and direct function of promoting keratinocyte migration.

[0036] At the 18-hour time point, there was no statistically significant difference between the migration-promoting effect of MV (healing rate of 54%) and that of the positive serum control group (healing rate of 58%) (p>0.05), indicating that it can produce migration-promoting capacity comparable to serum (containing multiple growth factors) in the early stage of repair.

[0037] This result directly confirms that MV has significant core efficacy in barrier repair: the migration ability of keratinocytes is a key link in wound healing and barrier reconstruction after skin barrier damage. By promoting HaCaT cell migration, MV can accelerate the repair process of the skin's physical barrier, fundamentally improving symptoms of barrier dysfunction such as dryness, peeling, and redness. MV achieves repair by actively regulating cell function, making it more targeted at complex barrier defects caused by inflammation-mediated or physical damage.

[0038] Experiment Example 3: Detection of the effect of mogroside V on ABTS free radical scavenging (1) Prepare ABTS working solution according to the number of samples to be tested. Add 200 μL of ABTS working solution to each well of the 96-well plate. Add 10 μL of PBS to the blank control well. Add 10 μL of different concentrations of mogroside V (V30: 30% purity, V50: 50% purity) sample solution to the sample determination well. Incubate at room temperature in the dark for 6 min. Measure the absorbance at a wavelength of 734 nm and calculate the free radical scavenging rate.

[0039] ABTS + Free radical scavenging rate (%) = (OD) 空白 -OD 测定 ) / OD 空白 ×100% (2) Experimental results This experiment used vitamin C as a positive control and evaluated the antioxidant activity of mogroside V (MV) using the ABTS free radical scavenging assay. The results are as follows: Figure 4 As shown in the graph, it is clear from the trend that the free radical scavenging rate of MV increases significantly in a dose-dependent manner with increasing concentration, and MV of different purities all exhibit stable antioxidant activity: within the tested concentration gradient range, as the concentration increases from low to high, the free radical scavenging rates of V30 and V50 continue to rise, with V30 showing more prominent antioxidant activity. In the high concentration range (e.g., 10 mg / mL), its scavenging effect is close to the scavenging level of the positive control VC at the same concentration, fully demonstrating that MV has significant free radical scavenging ability and antioxidant activity.

[0040] This result further enriches the technical advantages of the present invention, achieving a multi-functional synergistic effect of barrier repair and anti-oxidation: After the skin barrier is damaged, oxidative stress reactions produce a large number of reactive oxygen free radicals. These free radicals exacerbate damage to stratum corneum cells and disrupt the skin microenvironment homeostasis, not only delaying the barrier repair process but also accelerating skin aging. MV, by effectively scavenging ABTS free radicals, can reduce secondary damage to the skin caused by oxidative stress, creating a stable and healthy microenvironment for the repair of damaged barriers. It can also reduce the aging damage of free radicals to the skin from the source, help delay the decline of barrier function, and significantly enhance the comprehensive skincare value of cosmetics.

[0041] The above embodiments are merely preferred embodiments of the present invention and are only used to explain the present invention, not to limit the present invention. Any changes, substitutions, modifications, etc., made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and essence of the present invention should be within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. Application of mogroside V in the preparation of skin barrier repair cosmetics.

2. The application according to claim 1, characterized in that, The application is that of mogroside V in the preparation of skin barrier repair cosmetics that promote keratinocyte migration.

3. The application according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The cosmetics include toners, facial oils, serums, face creams, moisturizers, face masks, sunscreens, and facial cleansers.

4. The application according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that, The cosmetic product contains mogroside V at a mass percentage of 0.001% to 1%.

5. The application according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that, The cosmetics also include cosmetically acceptable excipients.

6. The application according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that, The purity of mogroside V is not less than 30%.

7. A cosmetic composition for repairing the skin barrier, characterized in that, It contains an effective amount of mogroside V as an active ingredient.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that, The mass percentage of mogroside V is 0.001% to 1%.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that, The purity of mogroside V is not less than 30%.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, characterized in that, The purity of mogroside V is not less than 50%.

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