Cosmetic composition for lip augmentation
Patent Information
- Application Number
- DE102020127305
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2020-10-16
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-16
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-10-16
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Abstract
Description
TECHNICAL FIELDThe invention relates to a composition containing guggulsterone and the use of the composition as a cosmetic agent for temporary lip augmentation.BACKGROUND ARTIt is part of the present cosmetic ideal to have full lips. For this purpose, various permanent, semi-permanent or temporarily effective methods are available which allow the volume of the lips to be increased.In this case, the semipermanent methods in which a substance is injected into the skin of the consumer or into the lips of the consumer are particularly popular. As substances for injection, use is made above all of a hyaluronic acid gel, the lip-enlarging effect of which lasts about 6-12 months after injection. However, the injection of hyaluronic acid is problematic due to side effects such as swelling, irritation, pruritic and inflammation of the skin. Furthermore, nodules may form as a result of the injection of hyaluronic acid, which makes itself visible in unevenness of the skin and is unacceptable to the consumer. Furthermore, the injection of hyaluronic acid must be performed by a professionally trained person, which brings the costs for such treatment rapidly up to the level.Furthermore, the injection of the lips has the consequence that it is not possible to decide flexibly whether one would like to have full lips on one day and would like to have narrower lips again on the next day. However, in view of the more rapidly changing trends, this is a considerable drawback, which additionally leads to the reduced acceptance of semi-permanent lips.The cosmetics industry has responded to this manko by offering lip products with hyaluronic acid which promising a larger volume. The effectiveness of such hyaluronic acid-containing products for topical application is significantly less pronounced than when injecting a hyaluronic acid gel. Consequently, the consumer's desire for a cosmetic lip product that causes appreciable lip enlargement is great.Further, the consumer desires natural cosmetic products, from which the consumers have received less side effects and better skin and environmental compatibility, but on the other hand tolerate unwelcome trades in achieving the desired effect. Thus, the need for new natural substances which can enlarge the lips and meet the consumer's high quality requirements is great.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTIONIt is the object of the present invention to minimize or to solve all disadvantages from the prior art for cosmetically enlarging lips. In particular, it is an object of the invention to provide a cosmetic composition made of natural products for enlarging the lips, which the consumer can apply himself and whose action lasts no longer than a day.In one aspect of the invention, a composition consists of1A) 0.02-1.0% by weight of guggulsterone based on the total weight of the composition,1B) 30-90% by weight lipids based on the total weight of the composition,wherein lipids are selected from the group consisting of oils, fats, fatty acids, waxes, triacylglycerides, phospholipids, fat-like substances and / or isoprenoids,1C) 2.0-7.0 wt% vitamins and / or provitamins based on the total weight of the composition,wherein vitamins are selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, vitamin B1, vitamin B3, vitamin B5, vitamin B6, vitamin B2, vitamin B8, vitamin B9, derivatives thereof and / or mixtures thereof,1D) 2.0-10.0 wt% of additives based on the total weight of the composition,where additives are selected from the group consisting of release agents, dyes, brighteners, emulsifiers, emulsion stabilizers, thickeners, plant extracts, stabilizers, fragrances, sugar substitutes, UV filters and / or combinations thereof,1E) 40-60% by weight water based on the total weight of the composition; and1F) 0 wt.% or 0.01-2.0 wt.%, preferably 0.05-0.5 wt.%, diosgenin based on the total weight of the composition,wherein 1A) guggulsterone, 1B) lipids, 1C) vitamins, 1D) additives, 1E) water and 1F) diosgenin are different from each other, andwherein the composition contains xylitol as 1D) additive.In this case, the formulation of the composition has the effect that the composition is easily applied to the lips of a human, temporarily increases the lips when the composition is applied topically to the lips of a human, and at the same time does not cause any side effects.Another aspect of the invention is the use of the above composition as a cosmetic composition for application to the lips of humans as a lip balm, lipstick, lip stick and / or lip gloss for humans. The use of the composition as a cosmetic composition has the effect of affecting the appearance of humans. In particular, the composition can enlarge the lips.DEFINITIONSGuggulsteroneGuggulsterone (GS) belongs to the class of phytosterols. GS is an active component of the Guggul resin.Guggul or also guggul obtained from the Indian myrrhen tree Commiphora mukul is a yellowish to brownish oil resin which has an aromatic taste and a balsamic odour. At the time of harvesting, the plant secretes a pale yellow liquid through a cut into the bark, which then solidifies to golden brown lumps. Thus, the natural resin is carried to further process extraction. The natural material is extracted (e.g. the product of FLAVEX natural extracts) by means of high-pressure extraction with natural swelling carbon acid and a small amount of ethanol as entrainer. The extract is standardized in the case of products from the house FLAVEX with MCT oil, a medium-chain triglyceride with food quality. Analysis by HPLC reveals that the product sold contains more than 2.5% guggulsterine. The product has a repair effect and is recommended for the treatment of degenerative skin symptoms and wrinkling. It has an anti-inflammatory effect and has tapered and powerful properties. It stimulates fibroblast proliferation, increases collagen type I synthesis, inhibits matrix metalloproteinases and elastase expression. The product is produced exclusively from the raw material mentioned and 100% natural, it contains no other additives or technical auxiliaries besides the MCT oil.DiosgeninDiosgenin (formula A) is a steroidal sapogenin which naturally occurs predominantly in the root tubers of the Yams plant (Dioscorea) and the seeds of the fenugreek (Trigonella foenum graecum) and other plants. Structurally, this is the aglycone of dioscin. It is known that diosgenin can be obtained from Yams root extract and that Yams root extract can contain more than 99% by weight of diosgenin. Cosmetic AgentsCosmetic agents, or cosmetic compositions as meant in this invention, may include creams, emulsions, lotions, gels and oils for skin care, face masks, make-up bases (liquids, pastes, powders), lipsticks, lip-gloss, toilet soaps, deodorant soaps, bathing and shower additives (salt, foam, oil, gel) or make-up and scraping agents.The definition of cosmetic agents can be found in SPECIFICATION (EC) No. 1223 / 2009, DES European ParLAMENT AND DES RatESS.Appendix 2 (ANNEX 2) of REGULATION (EG) No. 1223 / 2009, DES European PARLAMENT AND THE RATE, contains a list of substances prohibited for cosmetic agents, which is updated continuously and can be consulted doubtlessly.Appendix 3 (ANNEX 3), REGULATION (EC) No. 1223 / 2009, of the European Parlament and of the Rate, contains a list of substances which may contain cosmetic agents only following the indicated constraints, which is updated continuously and can be consulted in doubt.Appendix 4 (ANNEX 4) of REGULATION (EG) No. 1223 / 2009, DES European PARLAMENT AND THE RATE, contains a list of approved cosmetic agent colorants that is continuously updated and can be consulted doubtlessly.Appendix 5 (ANNEX 5) of REGULATION (EC) No. 1223 / 2009, DES European PARLAMENT AND THE RATE, contains a list of approved cosmetic preservatives which is continuously updated and can be consulted doubtlessly.Appendix 6 (ANNEX 6) of REGULATION (EG) No. 1223 / 2009, DES European PARLAMENT AND THE RATE, contains a list of allowed UV filters, which is updated continuously and is to be consulted in doubt.LipidsLipids are oils, fats, fatty acids, waxes, triacylglycerides, phospholipids, fat-like substances, but also isoprenoids. Lipids are completely or predominantly sparingly soluble in water and are thus readily soluble and extractable in nonpolar solvents. Water-insolubilization is due to its common chemical structural feature of long, nonpolar hydrocarbon chains or rings.EmulsionAn emulsion is understood to mean a finely divided mixture of two normally immiscible liquids without visible separation.BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURESFigure 1 is a bar graph showing the results of a test subject's survey. Subjects were asked for their self-assessment of the effectiveness of a Guggul emulsion for lip augmentation. 100% of the subjects determined the effectiveness. Fig. 2 is a bar graph showing the results of a test subject's survey. The test subjects were asked for their self-assessment of the nourishing effect of a Guggul emulsion for enlarging the lips. Of the subjects in question, 60% detected an effect, 20% detected no effect, and 20% contained their voice. Fig. 3 is a bar graph showing the results of a test subject's survey. Subjects were asked whether they had per se noticed undesirable effects or side effects after eight month use of a Guggul emulsion for lip augmentation. None of the subjects under consideration detected undesirable and side effects. Fig. 4 is a bar graph showing the results of a test subject's survey. In the survey, the test subjects were asked whether they would continue to wear the Guggul emulsion for enlarging the lips. All subjects under consideration would receive the Guggul emulsion for lip augmentation. Fig. 5 is a bar graph showing the results of a test subject's survey. The survey asked the subjects as to how they assessed the warming effect by the Guggul emulsion. 73% of the subjects estimated the warming effect as "very good", 18% of the subjects estimated the warming effect as "good", 9% of the subjects estimated the warming effect as "satisfactory". No subject estimated the effect as "bad". FIG. 6 shows the upper and lower lips of a 24 year old female probandin on the photographs. In Photograph A, the lips are shown before treatment and in Photograph B, the lips are shown after an eight week treatment with the Guggul emulsion for lip augmentation from the frontal perspective. In Photograph C, the lips are shown before treatment and in Photograph D, the lips are shown after an eight week treatment with the Guggul emulsion for lip augmentation from the side perspective. Photos after the eight week treatment show that the lips have fewer wrinkles and a larger volume. An increased lip temperature was measured in almost all subjects. An increased measured lip temperature results in the subject feeling a warming effect. It is also evident that the Guggul lips have an optically greater effect by applying the emulsion. Figure 7 shows photographs of nine subjects whose lips and lip temperature before use of the Guggul emulsion (T 0) and 15 (T 15) and 30 (T 30) respectively, show minutes after application of the emulsion.DETAILED DESCRIPTIONIn one aspect of the invention, a composition consists of1A) 0.02-1.0 wt %, preferably 0.03-0.5 wt %, more preferably 0.04-0.3 wt %, most preferably 0.05-0.1 wt %, guggulsterone based on the total weight of the composition,1B) 30-90 wt.%, preferably 35-80 wt.%, more preferably 37-70 wt.%, most preferably 40-50 wt.%, lipids based on the total weight of the composition,wherein lipids are selected from the group consisting of oils, fats, fatty acids, waxes, triacylglycerides, phospholipids, fat-like substances and / or isoprenoids1C) 2.0-7.0 wt.%, preferably 2.5-5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.07-4.5 wt.%, most preferably 4.0-6.0 wt.%, vitamins based on the total weight of the composition,wherein vitamins are selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, vitamin B1, vitamin B3, vitamin B5, vitamin B6, vitamin B2, vitamin B8, vitamin B9, derivatives thereof and / or mixtures thereof,1D) 2.0-10.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0-9.5 wt.%, more preferably 3.5-9.2 wt.%, most preferably 4.0-9.0 wt.%, additives based on the total weight of the composition,where additives are selected from the group consisting of release agents, dyes, brighteners, emulsifiers, emulsion stabilizers, thickeners, plant extracts, stabilizers, fragrances, sugar substitutes, UV filters and / or combinations thereof,1E) 40-60% by weight, preferably 42-60% by weight, more preferably 45-55% by weight, most preferably 47.5-52.5% by weight, of water based on the total weight of the composition,1F) 0 wt.% or 0.01-2.0 wt.%, preferably 0.05-0.5 wt.%, diosgenin based on the total weight of the composition,wherein 1A) guggulsterone, 1B) lipids, 1C) vitamins, 1D) additives, 1E) water and 1F) diosgenin are different from each other, andwherein the composition contains xylitol as 1D) additive.According to the invention, the sum of the constituents of the composition in % by weight gives a total of 100% by weight.Guggulsterone may be isolated according to the invention or present as part of a guggul extract. Both the guggulsterone and the guggul extract are commercially available. The commercially available guggul extract contains guggulsterone and other lipids, the proportion of guggulsterone being given. According to the invention, lipids are oils, fats, fatty acids, waxes, triacylglycerides, phospholipids, fat-like substances and / or isoprenoids. Lipids are preferably oils, fats, fatty acids and / or waxes.Oils are palm oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, palm kernel oil, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, corn germ oil, coconut oil, olive oil, sesame oil, linseed oil, thistle oil, sage oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, apricot kernel oil, grapeseed oil, macadamanus oil, castor oil, avocado oil, borage oil, sanddorn pulp oil, black caramel oil, wild rose oil and / or combinations thereof. In particular, the lipids according to the invention are sage oil, almond oil, jojoba oil.Fats are esters of the trivalent alcohol glycerol (propane-1,2,3-triol) with fatty acids.Fatty acids are linear carbon chain aliphatic monocarboxylic acids, either saturated or unsaturated. Fatty acids may in particular be butyric acid caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, α-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid and / or combinations thereof.Wax is an organic compound that melts at above about 40°C and then forms a low viscosity liquid. Waxes are virtually insoluble in water, but soluble in organic, nonpolar media. According to the invention, cork wax, guaruma wax (Calathea lutea), Ouricuri wax (Syagrus coronata), Kuba palm wax (Copernicia hspita), Esparto wax (Lygeum spartum, Stipa tenacissima), cotton wax, rice bran wax, flax wax, peat wax and rose wax, jasmin wax or the peetha wax from wax courd, as well as myrte wax (Myrica cerifera) and wax fare wax (Ficus variegata), bees wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, wool wax, paraffins, vaseline and / or combinations thereof can be used in particular.The inventive composition contains vitamins. Provitamins are understood according to the invention as vitamins, which, when applied in humans, are changed to vitamins with the aid of the human organism. The composition comprises vitamin C, vitamin B1, vitamin B3, vitamin B5, vitamin B6, vitamin B2, vitamin B8, vitamin B9, derivatives thereof and / or mixtures thereof, particularly preferably vitamin C, vitamin E and vitamin B5and derivatives thereof, most preferably vitamin C, vitamin E and vitamin B5.Additives are release agents, dyes, brighteners, emulsifiers, emulsion stabilizers, thickeners, plant extracts, stabilizers, fragrances, sugar substitutes, UV filters, optionally preservatives and / or combinations thereof. According to the invention, the additives are suitable for cosmetic use and are permitted for use in the EU by SPECIFICATION (EG) No. 1223 / 2009 DES EUROPEAN PARLAMENT AND DES RATACH. The additives 1D) here comprise xylitol.A list of dyes can be found in Appendix 4 of REGULATION (EG) No. 1223 / 2009, of the European Parlament and of the Rate.A list of preservatives can be found in Appendix 5, SPECIFICATION (EG) No. 1223 / 2009, of the European Parlament and the Rate. In particular, a preservative according to the invention is lecithin.A list of UV filters can be found in Appendix 6, SPECIFICATION (EG) No. 1223 / 2009, of the European Parlament and the Rate.Sugar substitutes are sweet-tasting compounds, usually polyols (so-called sugar alcohols), which have a lower influence on the blood sugar level than household sugar (sucrose), since they are metabolized independently of insulin. Sugar substitutes are selected in particular from the group consisting of: sorbitol (E 420), mannitol (E 421), isomalt (E 953), maltitol (E 965), lactitol (E 966), xylitol (E 967), erythritol (E 968), fructose, inulin, isomaltulose, corn syrup (high fructose corn syrup HFCS), oligofructose, starch hydrolysate, trehalose and trehalulose.Preferably, the guggulsterone is a mixture of the isomers of formula (Ia) and / or (Ib). In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain hyaluronic acid and / or a salt thereof. In particular, the composition does not contain sodium hyaluronate.In another particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition 1F) comprises diosgenin. The diosgenin in the composition has the effect that when the composition of the present invention is used, not only the lips are maintained but at the same time the hormone balance of the person using is also regulated. Thus, the invention fulfills an efficiency gain, since instead of two products only one is required to care the lips and simultaneously regulate the hormone balance. This is particularly advantageous since lip care products are increasingly used by women, and diosgenin is advantageous above all for the hormone balance of the women. Diosgenin is known to be present in a Yams root extract. The Yams root extract used herein contains more than 99% by weight of diosgenin.Preferably 1B) lipids consist of oils and / or waxes, preferably naturally occurring oils and / or waxes. The optimum weight ratio has the effect that the guggulsterone can be optimally diluted and distributed on a surface. This allows guggulsterone to be utilized in economical amounts without degrading the effect of the composition.Preferably 1B) lipids comprise almond oil, wherein the wt % ratio of almond oil to each further ingredient of the 1B) lipids is between 1.0 and 8.0, preferably between 1.0 and 2.0. Almond oil has the effect that it has a high compatibility and at the same time a good moisturizing effect.Preferably 1B) lipids a) comprise 30-60% by weight, preferably 32.5-50% by weight, more preferably 35-40% by weight, more preferably 37.5-40% by weight jojoba oil, and / or b) 40-70% by weight, preferably 50-67.5% by weight, more preferably 55-65% by weight, more preferably 60-62.5% by weight almond oil based on the total weight of the 1B) lipids.The jojoba oil has the effect of making it appear nappedly glossy on an applied surface and remaining long lasting on a surface. A mixture of the lipids of jojoba oil and almond oil has the effect that, on the one hand, the jojoba oil can be distributed in an improved manner and, on the other hand, the almond oil remains on a surface for a longer time.Preferably, 1D) additives consist of emulsifiers, emulsion stabilizers, fragrances, thickeners, dyes, UV filters, sugar substitutes and / or plant extracts and optionally preservatives, wherein each ingredient present in the 1D) additives is present between 0.001-5.500 wt. % based on the total weight. The composition contains xylitol as 1D) additive.In particular, 1D) additives optionally consist of 1.5-7.0 wt. %, preferably 1.6-6.0 wt. %, particularly preferably 1.75-5.5 wt. %, most preferably 1.9-5.5 wt. % preservatives, optionally 1.5-2.5 wt. %, preferably 1.7-2.2 wt. % sugar substitutes, 0.001-1.0 wt. %, preferably 0.005-0.05 wt. %, more preferably 0.005-0.025 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.0075-0.020 wt. %, most preferably 0.009-0.015 wt. % fragrances and / or 0.5-4.5 wt. %, preferably 0.75-4.0 wt. %, particularly preferably 1.5-3.9 wt. %, most preferably 1.9-3.8% by weight of emulsifiers.In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not contain any preservatives. Preservatives are usually added, in particular in cosmetic agents or medicaments, in order that the respective composition can be held for a longer time. In the present invention, well-known preservatives as disclosed in Chapter IV of EC 1223 / 2009 Appendix V (list of cosmetic approved preservatives) are not necessary to provide a durable cosmetic or medicament to the consumer.In a further preferred embodiment, the inventive composition comprises isosorbide and / or derivatives thereof as 1D) additive. Isosorbide has the effect of causing permanent hydration of the skin and / or the hair, imparting a pleasant, non-tacky feel to the skin and acting as a strong humectant and humectant. Accordingly, isosorbide can be evaluated as a D) additive in the present invention. It is known that isosorbide derivatives, such as isosorbide esters, isosorbide ethers, isosorbide phosphates, polymers of isosorbide and isosorbide nitrates, can likewise be evaluated as 1D) additives, where they are used in particular as emulsifiers, humectants and / or solvents, in particular emulsifier. In addition, isosorbide can reduce the growth of bacteria, yeasts and fungi. However, isosorbide is not listed in Chapter IV of EC 1223 / 2009 Appendix V (list of preservatives permitted in cosmetic agents). Isosorbide is part of a vegetable microbiota-balancing active ingredient which can be used as a preservative and is marketed by Beaute By Roquette as PO 500. Accordingly, the present invention herein cannot contain preservatives according to Chapter IV of EC 1223 / 2009 Appendix V, yet have preservative properties that make the composition longer-lasting. On the other hand, isosorbide and / or derivatives thereof can be used as moisturizing the lips, for which purpose hyaluronic acid or derivatives are normally likewise suitable. Accordingly, isosorbide and / or derivatives thereof can surprisingly be used as a substitute for hyaluronic acid for humans who cannot use hyaluronic acid.Preferably, the composition is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, preferably a W / O emulsion. The composition according to the invention is a stable emulsion. Preferably, after one month, preferably after two months, after the W / O emulsion has been adjusted, a W / O emulsion is still present.The composition preferably comprises 0.01-0.1% by weight, preferably 0.03-0.07% by weight, of cornosic acid corresponding to the formula (II). The cornosic acid is present in particular in sage. Cornosic acid is known in particular for its antioxidant effect.The composition contains xylitol as 1D) additive. Thus, the composition of the present invention contains xylitol as a sugar substitute, which is a 1D) additive. It has been observed that a composition containing guggulsterone and xylitol has a warming effect on the applied skin surface. The warming effect is physically observed by an increased temperature of the skin surface. Namely, an elevated temperature in this case means that the feeling of the skin surface is warming. Guggulsterone has a warming effect. This warming effect is enhanced by xylitol. Enhancing the warming effect is surprisingly strong. According to the invention, the measured temperature (ΔT max) of the lip surface within 30 minutes after application of the composition according to the invention to the lips preferably increases by at least 0.3° C., or in a range of 0.3-1.5° C. The warming effect perceived by consumers of the composition can be distinguished from competition products, since not only an optical magnifying effect, but also the warming effect is visible and perceptible to the consumer. Not tied to a scientific theory, it is assumed that a warming effect occurs due to a higher blood circulation of the body part, in particular lips, where the composition according to the invention is applied topically. Guggulsterone can increase blood circulation on the topically applied skin area, especially lips. Xylitol can increase blood circulation on the topically applied skin area, in particular lips. A composition according to the invention comprising xylitol and guggulsterone can surprisingly synergistically increase blood circulation on the topically applied skin portion.Preferably, the moisture content of the composition, as measured by a moisture analyzer at 120°C for 60 min on a dried aluminum dish, corresponds to 40-60% by weight, preferably 55-60% by weight, based on the starting weight of the composition. The high moisture content has the effect of keeping the surface on which the composition is applied moist for a longer period of time. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, keeping the surface moist for such a time can be effected without hyaluronic acid and / or its salts. Preferably, despite the high moisture content, the composition is present as a stable emulsion, preferably as a W / O emulsion.Another aspect of the invention is the use of the above composition as a cosmetic composition for application to the lips of humans as a lip balm, lipstick, lip stick and / or lip gloss for humans. According to the invention, the composition serves to optically alter the human face by topical applicationThe composition is applied to the lips of humans. Application may be by means of an applicator, brush, cloth or other means for applying a liquid. According to the invention, application is understood to mean that the composition wets the lips and remains on the lips for a period of time. A period of time may be 1-24 hours, preferably 2-24 hours, more preferably 4-24 hours, most preferably 4-12 hours, most preferably 4-6 hours.The composition is used as a lip balm, lipstick, lip stick and / or lip-gloss for humans. The composition can also fulfil further functions, such as, for example, care and / or dyeing of the lips.Preferably, the composition increases the lip surface of humans for 1-24 hours, preferably for 2-24 hours, more preferably for 2-12 hours, most preferably for 4-12 hours, most preferably for 4-6 hours.EXAMPLESThe invention is illustrated in more detail below with reference to exemplary embodiments.A) Measurement methodsMeasurement of Dry BalanceBefore the measurement, the aluminum dishes required for sample application were placed in the drying cabinet overnight at 120° C. in order to counteract corruption of the measurement values. At the beginning of the measurement, the drying temperature was set manually at 120° C. and a drying time of 60 minutes to ensure complete drying of the emulsion. The constant value was obtained after 45 minutes.B1) Preparation of Guggul Emulsion with Sage OilPreparation of the water phase: First, the required amount of lecithin was weighed out and the attempt was made to dissolve in 50 ml of NaCl solution. To achieve a chunk-free dissolving operation, the solution was heated at 70°C with vigorous stirring for 10 minutes and then dispersed with the Heidolph SilentCr. Incidentally, the water-soluble dexpanthenol was dissolved in the remaining amount of NaCl solution by normal stirring. After complete dissolution of the lecithin and dexpanthenol, both solutions were combined and 0.54 ml of phenoxyethanol was added. The consistency agent HEC was then weighed out and added gradually with vigorous stirring. To completely swell the HEC, the solution was allowed to stand overnight.Preparation of Oil Phase: For preparation of the oil phase, the semi-solid sage extract and the guggul extract were first weighed into a beaker. After jojoba oil and almond oil were added thereto, the phase was dispersed for 5 minutes to obtain a clear oil phase.Preparation of the emulsion:When both phases were prepared, the oil phase was gradually added to the water phase with vigorous stirring. Finally, the determined amount of perfume was added. For optimum homogenization, the emulsion was dispersed for one hour with the disperser. The yellow color is due to jojoba oil and guggul extract.The amounts used in Table 1 are based on the preparation of 200 ml of the Guggul emulsion. Because of the same emulsion base, the same challenges existed. Table 1: Ingredients of Example 1 (outside the inventive subject matter) Table 1: Ingredients of Example 1 (outside the inventive subject matter)0,9% NaCl solution50100 mLAlmond oil2448 mLJojoba oil1530 mLHydroxyethyl cellulose Hydroxyethyl Cellulose0,61,2 gLecithin lecithin24 g2-Phenoxyethanol0,30,54 mLDexpanthenol48gSage extract0,150,3 gGuggul extract 3%36gPerfume0,0120 μlIngredients of Table 1 with further details:0,9% NaCl solution: CAS No. 7647-14-5, B. Braun;Almond oil: refined, CAS No. 8007-69-0, Carl Roth;Jojoba oil: native, CAS No. 61789-91-1, Fagron;Hydroxyethylcellulose: Natrosol® 250 HX Pharma, CAS No. 9004-62-0, Caesar & Loretz;Lecithin: (CAS No. 8002-43-5, Carl Roth);2-Phenoxyethanol: (CAS No. 22-99-6, Fluka);Dexpanthenol: (CAS No. 81-13-0, Fagron);Sage extract: with 35% diterpenephenols, FLAVEX natur extracts;Guggul extract: GlucodOX™ liquid, guggul-MCT810 type No. 211.005 (INCI: Commiphora mukul): Flavex Natural Extracts GmbH, Product No.: 211.005 containing 3 wt.% guggulsterone;Perfume: "Milk Drop" SymriseTable 2: Wet Content of Guggul Emulsion. Table 2: Wet Content of Guggul Emulsion.1,2880,54557,742,31,2470,53257,442,61,2300,52457,442,6Mean Value57,542,5B2) Preparation of Guggul Emulsion with Yams Root Extract (Diosgenin)Preparation of water phase: For water phase, Motanov 202 was dissolved in ultra pure water at 85° C. with stirring.Preparation of the oil phase: For preparation of the oil phase, lecithin, almond oil and jojoba wax were stirred at 75-80°C.Preparation of the emulsion: the oil phase was added to the water phase heated to 85° C. while stirring (at 300 rpm). The vessel in which the phases were mixed for 12 minutes was kept at the temperature by a water bath. The mixture was cooled to 50°C and PO 500 was added. The mixture was then stirred at 400 rpm for 5 minutes and then at 800 rpm for 5 minutes.The mixture was then cooled to 40°C and Guggul extract and yam were added, followed by stirring of the mixture at 500 rpm for 5 minutes.Potassium sorbate and dexpanthenol were then added, after which the mixture was stirred at 600 rpm for 10 minutes and at 200 rpm for 15 minutes. Thus, Example 2A was obtained as an emulsion. Example 1A was stored in a stilized vessel.To obtain Example 2B, 25 g of Example 1A was taken and stirred with 0.5 g of xylitol. Example 2B was stored in a stilized vessel.Example 3 was prepared analogously to Example 1A, the xylitol being added after the potassium sorbate and dexpanthenol have been mixed, and the mixture was then stirred again. Table 3: Ingredients of Example 2A (outside the inventive subject matter) Table 3: Ingredients of Example 2A (outside the inventive subject matter)H 2 O50,8034,0Almond oil22,4115,0Jojoba oil11,207,50PO 5005,233,5Dexpanthenol3,632,43Guggul Extract 3%2,721,82Lecithin lecithin2,241,50Montanov 2021,521,02Potassium sorbate0,130,085Yams root extract0,120,08Ins.:10066,94Table 4: Ingredients of Inventive Example 2BTable 4: Ingredients of Inventive Example 2BH 2 O49,8012,70Almond oil21,975,60Jojoba oil10,992,80PO 5005,131,31Dexpanthenol3,560,91Guggul Extract 3%2,670,68Lecithin lecithin2,200,56Montanov 2021,490,38Potassium sorbate0,120,03Yams root extract0,120,03Xylitol1,960,50Ins.:10025,5Table 5: Ingredients of Inventive Example 3Table 5: Ingredients of Inventive Example 3Lecithin lecithin2,206,00Almond oil22,0060,00Jojoba oil11,0030,00Montanov 2021,474,00H 2 O49,88136,00PO 5005,1214,00Guggul Extract 3%2,647,21Yams root extract0,120,32Dexpanthenol3,569,70Potassium sorbate0,120,34Xylitol1,905,20insg.:100,00272,77Ingredients used from Tables 3-5 above with further details:H 2 O: Ultra pure water, ChemSolute® product no.: 0480-9010 produced by Ultra pure water plant, cf. with Bidest. (Conductivity max. 0.1 μS / cm);Almond oil: refined (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis): Caelo, product no.: 7303, Ph.Eur. 9.0, CAS No.: 8007-69-0;Jojoba oil: native (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil): Caelo, Product No.: 7279, CAS No.: 61789-91-1;PO 500: Tolle by ROQUETTE® PO 500 (INCI: Isosorbide) Roquette Frequencies, ECOCERT- and COSMOS-approved, CAS No.: 652-67-5;Dexpanthenol: Dexpanthenol API: Caelo, Product No.: 4060, Ph.Eur. 9.0, CAS No.: 81-13-0;Guggul extract: GlucodOX™ liquid, guggul-MCT810 type No. 211.005 (INCI: Commiphora mukul): Flavex natural extracts GmbH, product no.: 211.0053; containing 3 wt.% guggulsterone;Lecithin: Lecithinium e Soya plv. (INCI: lecithin): Caelo, product no.: 4375, 97.5%, from soybeans, contains GVO, CAS no.: 8002-43-5;Montanov 202: Montanov 202 (INCI: arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucosides): alacuraPotassium sorbate: Potassium sorbate: Caelo, Product No.: 2350, Ph.Eur. 8.0, CAS No.: 24634-61-5;Yams root extract: Dioscorea villosa extract: Chemos, Product No.: A0047343, CAS No.: 90147-49-2;Xylitol: without details.C) Test Subject StudyThis study of the subject was a clinical study that tested the effectiveness of a Guggul emulsion as a lip booster for lip augmentation.A duration of eight weeks was provided for the study after the beginning of the application in order to be able to generate meaningful statistics. The Guggul emulsion was applied to the lips daily morning and evening. The Guggul emulsion was tested on five subjects who subsequently answered a question sheet.Subjects were asked for their self-assessment of the effectiveness of a Guggul emulsion for lip augmentation. 100% of the test subjects determined the effectiveness (see FIG. 1 ).The test subjects were asked for their self-assessment of the nourishing effect of a Guggul emulsion for enlarging the lips. Of the subjects in question, 60% detected an effect, 20% detected no effect, and 20% contained their voice (see FIG. 2 ).Subjects were asked whether they had per se noticed undesirable effects or side effects after eight month use of a Guggul emulsion for lip augmentation. None of the subjects under consideration detected an undesirable effect and side effect (see FIG. 3 ).In the survey, the test subjects were asked whether they would continue to wear the Guggul emulsion for enlarging the lips. All subjects under consideration would receive the Guggul emulsion for lip augmentation (see FIG. 4 ).The survey asked the subjects as to how they assessed the heat effect by the Guggul emulsion. 73% of the subjects estimated the heat effect as "very good", 18% of the subjects estimated the heat effect as "good", 9% of the subjects estimated the heat effect as "satisfactory". No subject estimated the effect as "bad" (see FIG. 5 ).After eight weeks, the sublips of the subjects were photographed and compared with the photographs before the eight week test phase. By way of example, Figure 6 shows the upper and lower lips of a 24 year old female probandin on the photographs. In Photograph A, the lips are shown before treatment and in Photograph B, the lips are shown after an eight week treatment with the Guggul emulsion for lip augmentation from the frontal perspective. In Photograph C, the lips are shown before treatment and in Photograph D, the lips are shown after an eight week treatment with the Guggul emulsion for lip augmentation from the side perspective. Photos after the eight week treatment show that the lips have fewer wrinkles and a larger volume.C1) Effect of Warming on LipsTo nine subjects, the lip booster with the composition of Example 2B was applied uniformly to the lips with an applicator. The room in which the lip booster was applied to the test subjects was continuously conditioned to 22° C.The temperature of the lips immediately (less than 1 min) prior to application of the lip booster was measured and is shown in the Table below under T 0. The lip booster was applied and after 15 minutes (T 15) and 30 minutes (T 30) after the application, the temperature of the lips was measured and a photograph was shot as shown in FIG. 7. The temperature of the lips was measured with the aid of a laser thermometer (calibrated, Marle: TRACEABLE ® VWR ® infrared / type K thermometer) at constant distance.The tab. FIG. 4 shows a summary of the collected data. ΔT 1 indicates the temperature difference from T 15- T 0 here. ΔT 2 indicates the temperature difference from T 30- T 0 here. ΔT max indicates the highest temperature difference (T 15 or T 30) - T 0.In a majority of subjects, an increased measured temperature after 15 minutes (T 15) compared to the starting temperature (T 0) is evident. After 30 minutes (T 30) the measured temperature falls compared to the measured temperature after 15 minutes (T 15).It is evident in some subjects that the temperature-increasing effect only starts later, as in subjects 1, 8 and 9, for example.Nevertheless, it is recognized that applying the lip booster causes an increase in the lip temperature from T 0 to T 15 or T 30. An increased lip temperature results in the user feeling a warming effect on his lips. For example, as shown in ΔT max the greater the temperature differential, the greater the perceived warming effect for the user of the lip booster. It can also be seen from the photographs that after application of the Guggul emulsion, the lips of the test subjects have an optically greater effect. Table 6: Effect of warming on lips Table 6: Effect of warming on lipsSubject 17A)30,831,231,50,40,30,7Subject 27B)32,833,2330,4-0,20,4Probandin 37C)31,332,131,90,8-0,20,8Probandin 47D)31,532,131,50,6-0,60,6Subject 57E)31,732,231,50,5-0,70,5Probandin 67F)30,731,230,90,5-0,30,5Probandin 77G)31,733,232,91,5-0,31,5Probandin 87H)31,832,232,30,40,10,5Proband 97I)32,132,232,40,10,20,3
Claims
Composition consisting of 1A) 0.02-1.0 wt.% guggulsterone based on the total weight of the composition, 1B) 30-90 wt.% lipids based on the total weight of the composition, wherein lipids are selected from the group consisting of oils, fats, fatty acids, waxes, triacylglycerides, phospholipids, fat-like substances and / or isoprenoids, 1C) 2.0-7.0 wt.% vitamins and / or provitamins based on the total weight of the composition, wherein vitamins are selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, vitamin B1, vitamin B3, vitamin B5, vitamin B6, vitamin B2, vitamin B8, vitamin B9, derivatives thereof and / or mixtures thereof, 1D) 2.0-10.0 wt.% of additives based on the total weight of the composition, wherein additives are selected from the group consisting of release agents, dyes, brighteners, emulsifiers, emulsion stabilizers, thickeners, plant extracts, stabilizers, fragrances, sugar substitutes, UV filters and / or combinations thereof, 1E) 40-60 wt.% of water based on the total weight of the composition, 1F) 0 wt.% or 0.01 to 2.0 wt.% of diosgenin based on the total weight of the composition, wherein 1A) guggulsterone, 1B) lipids, 1C) vitamins, 1D) additives, 1E) water and 1F) diosgenin are different from each other, and wherein the composition contains xylitol as 1D) additive.Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that 1A) guggulsterone is the isomers of formula (Ia) and / or (Ib). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that 1B) lipids a) comprise 30-60% by weight, preferably 35-40% by weight jojoba oil, and / or b) 40-70% by weight, preferably 60-65% by weight almond oil, based on the total weight of the 1B) lipids.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that 1D) additives consist of emulsifiers, emulsion stabilizers, fragrances, thickeners, colorants, UV filters, sugar substitutes and / or plant extracts, and optionally preservatives, each ingredient present in the 1D) additives being present in a range of 0.1-2.0% by weight, based on the total weight.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises isosorbide and / or derivatives thereof as 1D) additive.Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5 as a cosmetic composition for application to the lips of humans as a lip balm, lipstick, lip stick and / or lip gloss for humans.Use according to claim 6 for temporarily increasing the lip surface of humans, preferably for 4-6 hours.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
1223/2009