Cosmetic active ingredient complex for advanced repair, strengthening and sensitivity reduction of sensitive skin

Abstract

Cosmetic active ingredient complex, functionally comprising at least one active ingredient from each of the following six classes of active ingredients: • cell-protecting substances, • immunomodulating substances, • barrier-stabilizing substances, • Soothing ingredients for sensitive skin, • hydrating substances, • Antioxidants.

Description

2. Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to cosmetics, in particular functional active ingredient systems for the care, strengthening, and repair of sensitive, irritated, or damaged skin. It comprises six key mechanisms of action: cell protection, immunomodulation or irritation control, barrier stabilization, skin-soothing and redness-reducing effects, hydration, and antioxidant protection. These mechanisms, when combined, can offer synergistic benefits for the function, stability, and resilience of sensitive skin. 3. State of the art

[0002] Sensitive or stressed skin often exhibits several simultaneous functional deficiencies, including increased sensitivity to stressors, immunological hyperreactivity, barrier instability, inflammatory irritation reactions, insufficient hydration, and increased exposure to oxidative processes. Numerous cosmetic formulations exist that address individual problems; however, a clearly structured, functional, multi-class system that consistently combines these mechanisms of action without prescribing a specific formulation is lacking. 4. Object of the invention

[0003] The object of the invention is to provide a functional cosmetic active ingredient complex that is tailored to six key mechanisms of action in sensitive skin. The complex should be flexibly formulated and remain independent of specific amounts of active ingredients or fixed formulations, while simultaneously creating a clear functional structure. 5. Disclosure of the invention

[0004] The invention comprises a cosmetic active ingredient complex that functionally includes at least one active ingredient from each of the following six classes of active ingredients. The classification is based on the primary cosmetic function in the context of sensitive or irritated skin. 5.1 Class 1 - Cell-protecting substances

[0005] This class comprises active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function is to protect epidermal cells from physical, chemical, or environmental stressors. In particular, these active ingredients contribute to increasing cellular stress resilience, stabilizing cellular structures, and protecting against stress-induced skin dysfunction, without primarily acting as antioxidants or immunomodulators.

[0006] The classification into this category is based solely on the primary cell-protective effect in a cosmetic context. Secondary effects such as hydration, barrier stabilization, or soothing properties do not lead to a reclassification, provided that the protection of cellular structures and functions constitutes the predominant mechanism of action.

[0007] Examples of suitable active ingredients (not exhaustive): • Ectoine • Hydroxyectoin • Functional derivatives of the aforementioned substances with retained cell-protective effect

[0008] Substances whose primary effect is immunomodulatory, antioxidant or pharmaceutical-like are not included in this class, even if they may secondarily exhibit cell-protective effects. 5.2 Class 2 - Immunomodulating substances

[0009] This class comprises active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function lies in modulating the cutaneous immune response, particularly by influencing immune-relevant signaling pathways in the skin, stabilizing skin reactivity, and reducing excessive or dysregulated immune reactions in a cosmetic context. The active ingredients in this class contribute to supporting a balanced skin response in sensitive, stressed, or reactive skin without exerting a near-pharmacological systemic immune effect.

[0010] Examples of suitable active ingredients (not exhaustive): • Beta-glucan (in cosmetically suitable form, including all INCI-compliant variants, regardless of source, molecular weight or manufacturing process) • Beta-glucan derivatives with retained immunomodulatory function

[0011] The classification into this category is based solely on the primary immunomodulatory effect. Secondary effects such as soothing, barrier stabilization, or hydration do not lead to a reclassification, provided that the modulation of immunological skin processes constitutes the predominant mechanism of action.

[0012] This class does not include substances whose primary effect is cell-protective, antioxidant, calming or barrier-stabilizing, as well as substances with pharmaceutical-like, systemic or drug-like immune effects, even if these may secondarily show immune-associated effects. 5.3 Class 3 - Barrier-stabilizing substances

[0013] This class includes active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function lies in strengthening, stabilizing, or restoring the skin barrier. In particular, these active ingredients support the integrity of the epidermal lipid structure, reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and contribute to improving the resilience of sensitive or barrier-damaged skin to external stressors.

[0014] The classification into this category is based solely on the primary barrier-stabilizing effect in a cosmetic context. Secondary effects such as hydration, soothing properties, or antimicrobial effects do not lead to a reclassification, provided that strengthening the skin barrier is the predominant mechanism of action.

[0015] Examples of suitable active ingredients (not exhaustive): • Ceramides (NP, AP, EOP, EOS, NG) • Cholesterol • Phytosphingosine and functional derivatives thereof • Phytosterols • Sphingolipid precursors • Free fatty acids of the skin barrier (e.g. linoleic acid) • Lipid complexes with skin-identical composition • barrier-stabilizing derivatives of the aforementioned substances

[0016] Substances whose primary function is an occlusive, film-forming or purely sensory effect, without actively contributing to the restoration or stabilization of the epidermal barrier, are not included in this class. 5.4 Class 4 - Soothing substances for sensitive skin

[0017] includes active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function is to reduce irritative reactions of sensitive or reactive skin, to lessen visible redness and / or to improve skin comfort through a soothing, anti-irritant or irritation-relieving effect.

[0018] This class is particularly aimed at applications involving sensitive, irritated or reactive skin, including conditions of increased sensitivity to irritants due to external or endogenous stress factors.

[0019] Not included in this class are substances whose primary mode of action is similar to pharmaceuticals, strongly anti-inflammatory, enzyme-inhibiting or immunomodulating, and whose main function is not a mild, cosmetic soothing of sensitive skin, even if they may exhibit secondary soothing effects.

[0020] Examples of suitable active ingredients (not exhaustive): • Panthenol • Allantoin • Centella asiatica and derived ingredients (e.g. asiaticosides, asiatic acid) • Bisabolol • Glycyrrhiza glabra (e.g. extracts) • Chamomilla recutita (e.g. extracts) • Calendula officinalis (standardized, skin-compatible extracts) • Aloe barbadensis (e.g. leaf juice or extracts) • Madecassoside

[0021] Differentiation from Class 2: Class 2 modulates immunological overreactivity, while Class 4 primarily addresses visible inflammatory symptoms. 5.5 Grade 5 - Hydrating Substances

[0022] This class includes active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function lies in improving water retention, reducing transepidermal water loss, or increasing skin comfort. Specifically, these active ingredients contribute to improving skin elasticity, reducing transepidermal water loss, and stabilizing skin comfort without having an exfoliating or cell-turnover effect.

[0023] The classification into this category is based solely on the primary hydrating effect in a cosmetic context. Secondary effects such as mild barrier stabilization, osmotic cell protection, or sensory smoothing do not lead to a reclassification, provided that moisture retention and NMF support constitute the predominant mechanism of action.

[0024] Examples of suitable active ingredients (not exhaustive): • Glycerin • Hyaluronic acid • Sodium PCA • Urea • Betaine • Trehalose • Erythritol • Diglycerin • Glyceryl Glucoside • functional derivatives of the aforementioned substances

[0025] Not included in this class are substances whose primary function is a keratolytic, exfoliating or pH-modifying effect, especially alpha or beta hydroxy acids, even if these may have secondary hydrating effects. 5.6 Grade 6 - Antioxidants

[0026] This class comprises active ingredients whose primary cosmetic function lies in protecting the skin from oxidative stress caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS). These active ingredients contribute to interrupting oxidative chain reactions, reducing oxidatively induced cell and lipid damage, and supporting skin integrity in a cosmetic context, without primarily acting as immunomodulators or providing cell protection through osmotic or structural stabilization.

[0027] The classification into this category is based solely on the primary antioxidant effect. Secondary effects such as soothing, hydration, or barrier stabilization do not lead to a reclassification, provided that the neutralization or buffering of oxidative processes constitutes the predominant mechanism of action.

[0028] Examples of suitable active ingredients (not exhaustive): • Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10) • Tocopherol • Tocopheryl Acetate • Ascorbyl derivatives (e.g. Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) • Mild polyphenolic compounds in cosmetically compatible dosages

[0029] This class does not include substances with a primarily strong anti-inflammatory, pharmaceutical or drug-like mode of action, as well as highly potent or irritant antioxidants that are unsuitable for sensitive skin, even if they possess antioxidant properties. 5.7 Normative rule for unambiguous class assignment 1. Each active ingredient is assigned exclusively to the functional class whose primary cosmetic function it fulfills according to its recognized INCI-based categorization. Multiple assignments are excluded. 2. Active ingredients whose cosmetic effect is nonspecific or multifunctional, or which cannot be clearly assigned to one of the six mechanisms, are considered complementary substances. They do not fulfill any mechanism and cannot replace a mandatory functional class. 3. Trehalose can be used as a moisture-binding or structure-supporting additive. However, trehalose is not considered a cell-protecting agent within the meaning of the invention and cannot fulfill or replace the class of cell-protecting substances that is exclusively covered by ectoine, hydroxyectoine, or functional ectoine derivatives. 4. PHA acids – including gluconolactone and lactobionic acid – can be used as complementary cosmetic excipients in the formulations, particularly for hydration or to improve skin comfort. However, they are NOT considered part of any of the six defined functional mechanisms of the invention and do not replace any of the functional classes of the invention. Their presence therefore does not fulfill any mechanism and does not replace any functional class of the active ingredient system. 5. Peptides, including signaling, enzyme-inhibiting, or structure-modifying peptides, as well as peptide-like active ingredients or amino acid-based signaling agents, are not the subject of the present invention. This particularly includes active ingredients with a primary biological signaling effect on cellular regulatory mechanisms, fibroblast activity, or collagen-related signaling pathways, such as those typically used in anti-aging or structure-modifying cosmetic compositions. The distinction is made, irrespective of the formal chemical classification of a substance, solely on the basis of its primary cosmetic function and its principal mechanism of action. 5.8 Technical Delimitation

[0030] The present invention is technically distinct from purely formulation-based cosmetic active ingredient systems and from systems that include additional microbiome-related mechanisms. The invention defines a functional framework consisting of six classes of active ingredients without specifying particular formulations or quantities. 6. Exclusions

[0031] To ensure the functional integrity of the active ingredient complex, the invention does not include any of the following groups of substances or substances: • Retinoids, including retinol, retinyl esters or retinoic acid derivatives; • Retinoid-like substances, including bakuchiol and functionally comparable compounds with cell turnover-stimulating or retinoid-like effects; • AHA acids, especially glycolic acid, lactic acid or mandelic acid; • BHA acids, especially salicylic acid; • Astaxanthin, lycopene or other highly specialized carotenoid antioxidants that cannot be assigned to the defined antioxidant class of the invention; • Substances with a primarily neuromodulatory, neurally mediated or endocannabinoid-related mode of action; • Substances with strong antioxidant activity that require an acidic formulation, pH-dependent activation, or a highly potent, irritant-potential effect; • Substances with a primarily strong antioxidant effect from the group of highly active polyphenols, in particular isolated catechins and comparable special antioxidants, which are typically used in highly concentrated drug systems or require special stabilization;

[0032] These exclusions serve to ensure that all active ingredients can be clearly assigned to one of the functional classes of the invention and that no substances are used that would dilute the technical teaching or impair the functional classifiability. 7. Advantages of the invention

[0033] The active ingredient complex offers a clear functional structure, high flexibility in the development of cosmetic formulations, and a scientifically verifiable derivation of the underlying mechanisms of action. The defined classification of multifunctional substances enables consistent and uniform technical training. 8. Dosage forms / Application

[0034] The active ingredient complex can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic formulations, including creams, lotions, emulsions, serums, fluids, gel creams, and liposomal systems. It is particularly suitable for sensitive, irritated, or stressed skin.

Claims

[1] Cosmetic active ingredient complex, functionally comprising at least one active ingredient from each of the following six classes of active ingredients: • cell-protecting substances, • immunomodulating substances, • barrier-stabilizing substances, • Soothing ingredients for sensitive skin, • hydrating substances, • Antioxidants. [2] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the cell-protecting substance is selected from ectoin, hydroxyectoin or functional ectoin derivatives. [3] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the immunomodulating substance is selected from beta-glucan including all INCI-compliant variants regardless of source, molecular weight or manufacture. [4] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the barrier-stabilizing substance is selected from ceramides, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, phytosterols, or skin-identical lipid complexes. [5] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the soothing substance for sensitive skin is selected from panthenol, allantoin, centella asiatica, bisabolol, glycyrrhiza glabra, calendula officinalis, chamomilla recutita, aloe barbadensis or madecassoside. [6] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the hydrating substance is selected from glycerin, hyaluronic acids, sodium PCA, urea or betaine. [7] Active ingredient complex according to claim 1, wherein the antioxidant substance is selected from tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10) or cosmetically suitable ascorbyl derivatives. [8] Cosmetic formulation comprising an active ingredient complex according to any one of claims 1-7, wherein the formulation is selected from creams, lotions, serums, emulsions, fluids, gel creams, hydrodispersions or liposomal systems. [9] Use of an active ingredient complex according to any one of claims 1-7 for cosmetic support of sensitive or irritated skin by one or more of the following effects: • Increased cellular stress resilience, • Reduction of irritative skin reactions, • Improvement of the epidermal barrier function, • Reduction of visible redness or inflammatory irritation reactions, • Improved hydration, • Protection against oxidative environmental influences. [10] Active ingredient complex according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by that the complex is free from the following groups of substances or substances: • Retinoids, including retinol, retinyl esters and retinoic acid derivatives; • AHA acids, including glycolic acid, lactic acid or mandelic acid; • BHA acids, especially salicylic acid; • highly specialized carotenoid antioxidants, including astaxanthin and lycopene, which cannot be assigned to any of the defined functional classes of the active ingredient complex.