Skin cream or skin cream serum

Abstract

Skin cream or skin cream serum, in particular face cream, for anti-aging treatment of the skin, comprising a formulation based on an emulsion of water and vegetable oil, characterized in that the formulation also comprises at least three active ingredients, comprising: a. one or more placenta-based peptides b. a tellumer activator and c. a mixture of two or more hyaluronic acid salts with different chain lengths

Description

[0001] The invention relates to a skin cream or skin cream serum for optimal nutrient supply to the skin while simultaneously promoting cell regeneration.

[0002] Skin creams are typically used to supply the skin with nutrients. However, an oversupply of nutrients can sometimes cause certain skin cells, such as corneocytes, to swell or lead to unwanted deposits in the skin, resulting in pimples, unpleasant itching, or an uneven skin tone.

[0003] When using multiple active ingredients, they must be ideally coordinated. A lack of coordination between active ingredients on the skin can negatively affect gas exchange and the skin's absorption capacity, among other things. For example, if cell regeneration is activated by one active ingredient, it can be reduced by another active ingredient that occupies the receptor sites.

[0004] The invention therefore addresses the task of providing a skin cream for improved cell regeneration with improved deep penetration.

[0005] The present invention solves this problem through the features of claim 1.

[0006] A skin cream according to the invention, in particular a face cream, serves for the anti-aging treatment of the skin. It comprises or has a formulation that is based on, or formed from, an emulsion of water and vegetable oil.

[0007] The present invention also relates to a skin cream-serum in which, compared to a skin cream, the concentration of the carrier materials, e.g. water and vegetable oil, is reduced and the concentration of the active ingredients is increased.

[0008] A skin cream serum can be mixed with another skin cream or applied to the skin without additives for higher requirements, e.g. as an after-sun lotion.

[0009] The following description and further advantages refer – apart from concentration data relating to the total mixture – to both the skin cream according to the invention and the skin cream serum.

[0010] The formulation also contains at least three active ingredients, including: a. a placenta-based pap inhibitor or several placenta-based peptides For example, a freeze-dried powder can be produced from the placenta and added to skin cream. The peptide used must therefore be demonstrably present in the placenta. Furthermore, a special characteristic of placenta material is that it also contains a hyaluronic acid derivative, which is at least partially bound to the peptide or embedded in the wrinkle structure. b. a tellumer activator Tellumer activators are commercially available active ingredients. They are used for cell cap regeneration. c. a mixture of two or more hyaluronic acid salts with different chain lengths Hyaluronic acid salts are added as a mixture of long- and short-chain components.

[0011] Advantageous embodiments of the invention are the subject of the dependent claims.

[0012] Preferably, the tellumer activator may comprise at least one flavonoid, preferably baicalein. Baicalein also has anti-inflammatory properties.

[0013] The tellumer activator can also include enriched plant stem cells.

[0014] For optimal transport of substances into different skin layers, the mixture of hyaluronic acid salts has at least four, preferably six or more hyaluronic acid salts with different chain lengths, wherein at least one first of the hyaluronic acid salts has a chain length that is at least 50% longer than a second of the hyaluronic acid salts.

[0015] In order for the skin cream to have an optimal effect on the skin surface, the skin cream contains a peeling agent for the superficial removal of skin cells, which is preferably in the form of microcellulose.

[0016] The placenta-based peptides, in a manner typical for peptides derived from the placenta, contain a partially bound endogenous hyaluronic acid derivative, preferably a hyaluronic acid salt.

[0017] The placenta-based peptides exhibit a pH-dependent folding structure, with the pH of the cream being less than 6.0.

[0018] The cream may contain at least one organic acid, such as anisic acid, preferably p-anisic acid, to adjust the pH value. This also improves the shelf life of the skin cream.

[0019] In addition to an organic acid, the cream contains an acidity regulator and / or a pH buffer substance, which allows for fine-tuning of the pH value and prevents the pH from falling below a certain limit.

[0020] The cream also contains at least one beneficial plant-based ingredient, namely beetroot extract, which serves as both an antioxidant and a source of vitamin E. This reduces the number of ingredients, and the ingredient used is of natural origin and therefore particularly skin-friendly.

[0021] Special synergistic effects with the aforementioned active ingredients result when the cream contains acetyl glutamine to support collagen production during cell renewal, in addition to the placenta-based peptides.

[0022] The skin cream can also contain teprenone, which is beneficial and complementary to the placenta-based peptides, for regulating melanin levels and thus reducing age spots. This not only stimulates cell renewal as part of the anti-aging treatment but also reduces the visible signs of skin aging.

[0023] The skin cream may contain one or more peptides selected from a group consisting of SH-oligopeptide-1, SH-oligopeptide-2, SH-polypeptide-1, SH-polypeptide-9 and / or SH-polypeptide-11.

[0024] The skin cream may also contain a microencapsulation agent for improved absorption into the skin. At least one fructan, particularly levan, may be used as the microencapsulation agent.

[0025] The cream can consist predominantly of water and contain at least two or more plant oils. The different plant oils allow for the action of various fatty acids.

[0026] The cream contains one or more alcohols to regulate the solubility of the peptides contained in the cream.

[0027] The invention is described in more detail below with reference to a specific composition and a process scheme for its production. It shows: Fig. 1 an exemplary variant of a process scheme for providing a skin cream according to the invention

[0028] The cream according to the invention comprises at least three active ingredients in a cream formulation.

[0029] The selection of active ingredients includes • at least one or more placenta-based peptides, in particular a placenta-based hyaluronic acid-containing peptide mixture; • at least one telumerase activator for cell cap regeneration • at least one hyaluronic acid salt, preferably an alkali or alkaline earth salt of hyaluronic acid, in particular a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

[0030] Placenta-based peptide(s) can be extracted from the placenta, for example, from the afterbirth, using a known method. After purification of the afterbirth, the tissue is freeze-dried and processed into a powder. The placenta consists predominantly of peptides. Furthermore, the placenta contains a hyaluronic acid derivative, such as a salt of hyaluronic acid.

[0031] The cream may also contain the following peptides: SH-Oligopeptide-1, SH-Oligopeptide-2, SH-Polypeptide-1, SH-Polypeptide-9 and / or SH-Polypeptide-11.

[0032] The telumerase activator may include a flavonoid, preferably a baicalein.

[0033] Alternatively or additionally, the telumerase activator can comprise olive plant components, such as olive leaves, olive seeds, and / or olive roots. These can be used as an olive plant extract, preferably as an Olea Europaea seed extract. The agent can be formulated as an aqueous extract with more than 30% water by weight.

[0034] Alternatively or additionally, the telumerase activator can include date fruit, preferably as an extract.

[0035] Furthermore, the telumerase activator can include stem cells, especially plant stem cells.

[0036] Preferably, several or even all of the agents can be combined. For example, TCR3-Plus is a commercially available telumerase activator.

[0037] The third component of the cream's active ingredient complex, hyaluronic acid salt, serves as the main ingredient for improving skin hydration and elasticity. Furthermore, hyaluronic acid salt facilitates the transport of the other two active ingredients and improves their absorption by skin cells.

[0038] Hyaluronic acid can have different chain lengths with disaccharides as repeating units. It is important that the transport of substances, including other active ingredients, and their release into deeper skin layers are regulated by the different polymer chain lengths. Therefore, low- and high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid salts are advantageously used.

[0039] Preferably, at least 30 wt.% of the hyaluronic acid salts used can be in the form of low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid molecules, and at least 10 wt.% of the hyaluronic acid salts used can be in the form of high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid molecules, with a chain length at least 50% longer, preferably at least 100% longer, than the low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid molecules. The combination of high- and low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid enables deeper hydration and long-lasting moisture retention.

[0040] In total, at least four different, preferably six different, hyaluronic acid salts can be used to improve the distribution in the depth profile of the skin, with these hyaluronic acid salts differing in their chain length.

[0041] Other components of the cream are carrier substances. These may preferably include water, vegetable oils and / or emulsifiers. Preferably, all three components are present as part of the respective carrier substance.

[0042] Another preferred carrier substance is glycerin. Glycerin as a carrier substance supports the skin's moisture absorption and its moisture barrier function. The same applies to pentylene glycol as a carrier substance.

[0043] Preferably, jojoba oil and / or almond oil are used as plant oils to further improve the skin barrier. The cream may also contain sunflower seed oil and / or olive oil. Preferably, the cream contains at least two of the aforementioned plant oils to achieve an optimized emulsion and reduce separation.

[0044] The cream preferably uses cetyl alcohol, sodium cetearyl sulfate, and / or glyceryl oleate citrate as emulsifiers to achieve additional stabilization of the formulation.

[0045] Furthermore, relatively small amounts of methylpropanediol and / or ethanol can be used as solvents.

[0046] Optionally, the cream may also contain a dispersing agent for better application to the skin. This dispersing agent may optionally include a neutral oil, in particular caprylic / capryl triglyceride, propylheptyl caprylate, and / or dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0047] In addition, the cream may contain one or more thickening agents, e.g. xanthan gum and / or hydrolyzed cornstarch.

[0048] Another optional ingredient in the cream is a so-called moisture-retaining agent. This component gradually releases bound water into the skin. A preferred moisture-retaining agent can be in the form of cellulose gum.

[0049] Furthermore, the cream may contain an exfoliating component that mechanically removes dead skin cells. This allows the active ingredients to penetrate the skin even more deeply. The exfoliating component is preferably in the form of microcrystalline cellulose.

[0050] Other optional ingredients in the cream may be selected from one or more antioxidants, plant extracts and / or vitamins.

[0051] Antioxidants, such as phospholipids like lecithin, hydroxyacetophenone, and / or a Bacillus folic acid fermentation extract, combat free radicals, while plant extracts (e.g., aloe vera, chamomile, sunflower seed) primarily soothe and nourish the skin. Vitamins, such as vitamin E and vitamin C (or tocopherol), support skin regeneration. It is also possible to use plant extracts that contain both antioxidants and vitamins, such as vitamin C. A preferred plant extract for this purpose is beetroot extract.

[0052] Lactic acid, citric acid, and / or ascorbic acid can be used to adjust the pH value. The pH of the cream is preferably lower than pH 6. Accordingly, in this slightly acidic environment, the placenta-based peptide fold structure of the active ingredient forms, incorporating accompanying oil components and / or hyaluronic acid derivatives into this structure. Upon penetration through the skin, these accompanying components can unfold and be released from the peptide structure.

[0053] To adjust the pH value, an acidity regulator is necessary in addition to one or more of the aforementioned compatible organic acids. Sodium lactate can be used for this purpose. Alternatively or additionally, potassium phosphate can be used as a pH buffer.

[0054] Hydrogenated rapeseed oil and / or glyceryl caprylate can also be used as emollients.

[0055] To control the release times of individual active ingredients, the cream also includes a microencapsulation agent. This microencapsulation can be achieved by adding fructans, especially levans.

[0056] Furthermore, the cream may contain surfactants to reduce surface tension when applied to the skin. A preferred surfactant might be, for example, a decyl glucoside.

[0057] In addition to the previously mentioned active ingredients of the active ingredient complex, acetyl glutamine can also be used to promote collagen production as part of cell renewal.

[0058] Teprenone can also be used to support or in addition to the previously mentioned active ingredients of the drug complex, in order to regulate the melanin level and thus reduce age spots.

[0059] In a manner known per se, the cream can be perfumed and contain a corresponding fragrance.

[0060] Furthermore, phenethyl alcohol can be used as an ingredient in the cream for skin cleansing and regulation.

[0061] For preservation and protection against microbes, the cream may also contain anisic acid, preferably p-anisic acid, phenoxyethanol, butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol.

[0062] The cream may also contain NaCl.

[0063] The cream promotes the skin's natural elasticity and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It activates cell caps and regenerates skin cells as part of an anti-aging treatment, similar to fresh cell therapy, but without the drawbacks of limited shelf life and the animal welfare issues associated with fresh cell production.

[0064] The predominant or complete use of natural and skin-friendly ingredients minimizes the risk of irritation.

[0065] The cream described above is applied to cleansed skin as a skin cream, ideally twice daily for optimal effect. For best results, the cream should be gently massaged in to promote absorption.

[0066] An example formulation of a base cream includes the following ingredients in typical dosage ratios: Water, Glycerin, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Propyl Heptyl Caprylate, Methylpropanediol, Xanthan Gum, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Cellulose Gum, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Levan, Decyl Glucoside, Olea Europaea Seed Extract, Acetylglutamine, Teprenone, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Fragrance, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Zizyphus Jojoba Extract, Alcohol, Lactic Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Citric Acid Ascorbic acid, p-aniic acid, pentylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, SH-oligopeptide-1, SH-oligopeptide-2, SH-polypeptide-1, SH-polypeptide-9, SH-polypeptide-11, bacillus / folic acid enzyme extract, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, sodium chlorideHydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol,

[0067] The main ingredient of the cream is water, comprising over 50% by weight.

[0068] The hyaluronic acid salts used can be low-molecular-weight, up to 1% by weight of the cream's total mass. These components allow for deep penetration into the skin and deliver moisture to deeper skin layers. High-molecular-weight, or long-chain, hyaluronic acid salts can be used up to 0.5% by weight of the cream's total mass. They form a protective layer on the skin's surface and prevent excessive moisture loss.

[0069] The listed jojoba extract may be present at a concentration of 2.0–5.0% by weight. The same applies to all other plant extracts. Almond oil and olive oil may each be present at a concentration of 3.0% by weight in the cream.

[0070] The placenta-based peptides are present in the cream at a minimum of 0.8 wt.%, preferably between 1-12 wt.%.

[0071] The proportion of the unlisted telumerase activator, however, is advantageously less than 5 wt.%, preferably 0.8-3.8 wt.%.

[0072] Glycerin may be present at 4.2% w / w and the emulsifier cetyl alcohol at 1.8% w / w.

[0073] The vitamin content can be less than 1% by weight, e.g. 0.6%.

[0074] Preservatives, pH regulators and / or acids, as well as all other listed ingredients, are each present in the cream at less than 1% by weight.

[0075] An exemplary method for producing the cream is described using the following: Fig. 1 explained in more detail.

[0076] In a first step 101, a water phase is provided by adding some water-soluble components, such as glycerin and, if necessary, hyaluronic acid salts.

[0077] In a second step 102, an oil phase is provided by adding some of the above-mentioned oil-soluble components, such as vegetable oil, possibly by heating the oil phase.

[0078] In a third step, 103, the so-called emulsification takes place. The oil phase is added to the water phase while stirring continuously. A shear mixer can also be used instead of stirring. Through stirring or gravity, an emulsion is formed, for example, at 40-50°C.

[0079] In a fourth step, the mixture is cooled to room temperature. This can be done while stirring to maintain the emulsion.

[0080] In a fifth step 105, further active ingredients are added, e.g. vitamin E, chamomile extract, proteins, the tellumer activator and / or preservatives.

[0081] In a sixth step 106, the pH value is adjusted by measuring the OH value and adding acids and / or acid regulators or pH buffers in a measured dose.

[0082] In a seventh step 107, the cream is then filled into containers, preferably in an aseptic atmosphere.

[0083] The resulting cream is light and creamy. It is quickly absorbed by the skin, leaving it feeling soft and hydrated while simultaneously firming the skin and renewing skin cells.

[0084] This cream offers a balanced combination of moisturizing, soothing and protective ingredients that also enable effective skin renewal.

Claims

[1] Skin cream or skin cream serum, especially face cream, for anti-aging treatment of the skin comprising a formulation based on an emulsion of water and vegetable oil, characterized by , that the formulation also contains at least three active ingredients, including: a. one or more placenta-based peptides b. a tellumer activator and c. a mixture of two or more hyaluronic acid salts with different chain lengths [2] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to claim 1, characterized by that the tellumer activator comprises at least one flavonoid, preferably a baicalein. [3] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by that the tellumer activator includes enriched plant stem cells. [4] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized bythat the mixture of hyaluronic acid salts comprises at least four, preferably six or more hyaluronic acid salts with different chain lengths, wherein at least one first of the hyaluronic acid salts has a chain length that is at least 50% longer than a second of the hyaluronic acid salts. [5] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the skin cream or skin cream serum contains a peeling agent for the superficial removal of skin cells, which is preferably in the form of microcellulose. [6] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the placenta-based peptides contain a partially bound endogenous hyaluronic acid derivative, in particular a hyaluronic acid salt. [7] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized bythat the placenta-based peptides exhibit a pH-dependent folding structure, where the pH of the skin cream or skin cream serum is less than 6.

0. [8] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the skin cream or skin cream serum contains at least one organic acid which is formed as anisic acid, preferably p-anisic acid. [9] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the skin cream or skin cream serum contains an acidity regulator and / or a pH buffering substance in addition to an organic acid. [10] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the skin cream or skin cream serum contains at least one plant-based ingredient, such as beetroot extract, which serves as both an antioxidant and a source of vitamin E. [11] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the skin cream or skin cream serum contains acetyl glutamine to support collagen production as part of cell renewal, in addition to the placenta-based peptides. [12] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the skin cream or skin cream serum contains, in addition to the placenta-based peptides, a teprenone to regulate the melanin level and thus to reduce age spots. [13] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the skin cream or skin cream serum contains one or more peptides selected from a group consisting of SH-oligopeptide-1, SH-oligopeptide-2, SH-polypeptide-1, SH-polypeptide-9 and / or SH-polypeptide-11. [14] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the skin cream or skin cream serum contains a microencapsulation agent. [15] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to claim 14, characterized by that the skin cream or skin cream serum contains at least one fructan, in particular a levan, as an agent for microencapsulation. [16] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the skin cream or skin cream serum consists predominantly of water and contains at least two or more plant oils. [17] Skin cream or skin cream serum according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by that the cream or skin cream serum contains one or more alcohols to regulate the solubility of the peptides contained in the skin cream or skin cream serum.

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