TWO-COMPONENT SYSTEM FOR SMOOTHING AND CARING FOR HAIR
Patent Information
- Application Number
- DE502019013129
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2018-10-31
- Filing Date
- 2019-10-31
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-17
- Estimated Expiration
- 2039-10-31
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a two-component system for straightening and caring for keratinous material. The two-component system separately comprises an anhydrous carrier medium comprising an alkane, a fatty alcohol, an alcohol, and organic silicon compounds, as well as an aqueous phase containing an alkali metal hydroxide. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of the two-component system for straightening hair.
[0002] The external stress on hair caused by chemical substances from a variety of different sources presents challenges for the development of cosmetic care products. Furthermore, frequently changing consumer preferences regarding a specific hair texture are associated with recurring chemical stress on the hair. For example, hair coloring or hair straightening can place stress on the hair, which may require special, intensive care.
[0003] Air and water pollution have adverse effects on skin and hair. The effects of various air pollutants can be amplified in the presence of other air pollutants and under the influence of UV radiation. The toxicity of gaseous air pollutants, such as sulfur dioxide, ozone, and nitrogen oxides, is known to be particularly related to their ability to initiate free radicals, which cause damage to living organisms. Free radicals are metabolic products that also occur naturally in the body. In this case, it is referred to as "oxidative damage." Free radicals can also cause hair damage, which can be seen, for example, as a reduction in shine and feel and / or fading of hair color.
[0004] This presents developers of hair products with the challenge of satisfying customer preferences regarding shape, color, and texture, while at the same time preserving the structure, especially the surface structure, of the hair. Hair straightening and coloring, in particular, have been difficult to achieve with gentle products in the past. The problem of damaging hair is exacerbated by the harmful environmental influences described above.
[0005] For the protection and care of hair, organosilicon compounds from the group of silanes, which contain at least one hydroxyl group and / or hydrolyzable group, are described in the prior art. Due to the presence of the hydroxyl groups and / or hydrolyzable groups, silanes are reactive substances that hydrolyze, oligomerize, or polymerize in the presence of water. The oligomerization or polymerization of the silanes, initiated by the presence of water, ultimately leads to the formation of a film when applied to a keratinous material, which can exert a protective effect.
[0006] The problem with using organosilicon compounds is their instability towards water. Aqueous hair treatment systems containing organosilicon compounds as active ingredients are therefore disadvantageous.
[0007] On the one hand, the prior art from WO2011 / 131603 A1 discloses hair straightening agents containing at least 45% fatty substances, at least 5% surfactants, and an alkalizing agent. The alkalizing agent is preferably the alkali metal hydroxide sodium hydroxide, and the fatty substances are preferably selected from a mixture of paraffin oil and a fatty alcohol such as cetylstearyl alcohol. Organosilicon compounds from the silane group are not described in this document.
[0008] On the other hand, WO2017 / 102857 A1 discloses hair styling products containing two organic silicon compounds and fatty substances. This document does not describe a two-component system for hair straightening comprising an aqueous phase with an alkali metal hydroxide as the second component.
[0009] The object underlying the present invention is to provide a system that serves as a basis for the production of an agent that enables gentle hair treatment, in particular hair straightening. In particular, the agent to be produced should protect or restructure the surface structure of hair during its use.
[0010] This task is solved by a two-component system for smoothing and caring for keratin material, especially hair, whereby the two-component system comprises separately: an anhydrous carrier medium as a first component, comprising a) at least one branched or linear C8-C30 alkane, b) at least one branched or linear C10-C30 fatty alcohol, c) at least one branched or linear monohydric C2-C8 alcohol, and d) at least one organic silicon compound, wherein the at least one organic silicon compound contains a compound of formula (I) and at least one organic silicon compound of formula (IV) as defined below, and an aqueous phase as a second component, comprising water and an alkali metal hydroxide.
[0011] The advantage of two-component systems lies in the possibility of storing substances that react with each other separately. The components can only be combined shortly before use of the two-component system to create a ready-to-use agent. Within the context of the present invention, the feature "comprising separate components" is therefore to be understood as meaning that the two components, i.e., the anhydrous carrier medium and the aqueous phase, are spatially separated from each other in two compartments or two different containers, preventing unintentional mixing.
[0012] The anhydrous carrier medium serves as the basis for the provision of an organosilicon compound. The organic silicon compound remains stable in the carrier medium. The carrier medium can be combined with one or more aqueous phases as a second component, which contains water-based active ingredients for hair straightening. Because the carrier medium is then combined with one or more other aqueous phases shortly before application, the active ingredient, the organosilicon compound, remains stable until application.
[0013] In the context of the present invention, "anhydrous" is preferably understood to mean that no water is added to the aqueous carrier medium or that the aqueous carrier medium is not water-based. More preferably, the water content of the anhydrous carrier medium is less than 5 wt. %, even more preferably less than 2 wt. %, and most preferably less than 1 wt. %, based on the total weight of the anhydrous carrier medium. In the presence of small amounts of moisture, a small portion of the organic silicon compound can hydrolyze, and the hydrolyzate is in equilibrium with free water. This amount of water is preferably present in the amounts stated above.
[0014] Keratinous materials include hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous materials.
[0015] A keratinous material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin, and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails. Most preferably, a keratinous material is understood to mean human hair, in particular head and / or beard hair.
[0016] The anhydrous carrier medium of the two-component system contains at least one organic silicon compound, namely at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I) and at least one organic silicon compound of formula (IV) as defined below, which are to be stabilized.
[0017] By using organic silicon compounds in the anhydrous carrier, the organic silicon compounds are protected from hydrolysis.
[0018] Organic silicon compounds, alternatively also called organosilicon compounds, are compounds that either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si-C) or in which the carbon is linked to the silicon atom via an oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atom.
[0019] The effect of the organic silicon compounds concerns the protection and care of the hair, especially the hair surface, when used in the two-component hair straightening system. When combined with the aqueous phase, the hydrolyzed silicon compounds form a protective film on the hair surface and thus have a "repair" effect.
[0020] According to IUPAC rules, the term silane refers to a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon backbone and hydrogen. In organic silanes, the hydrogen atoms are completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as (substituted) alkyl groups and / or alkoxy groups. In organic silanes, some of the hydrogen atoms can also be replaced by hydroxy groups.
[0021] The anhydrous carrier medium contains at least one organic silicon compound, wherein the at least one organic silicon compound contains a compound of formula (I) and at least one organic silicon compound of formula (IV). In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous carrier medium contains, in addition to the organic silicon compounds of formula (I) and (IV), a further organic compound of formula (II), as defined below.
[0022] The compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are organic silicon compounds selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, wherein the organic silicon compound comprises one or more hydroxyl groups and / or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
[0023] The above-mentioned silicon compounds of formula (I) and (II) are: R 1 R 2 NL-Si(OR 3 ) a (R 4 ) b (I), where R 1 , R 2 both represent a hydrogen atom, L represents a linear, divalent C 1 -C 6 alkylene group, preferably a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) or an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), R 3 , R 4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group, a represents the number 3 and b represents the number 0, (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si-(A) e -[NR 7 -(A')] f -[O-(A")] g -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' (II), where R5, R5', R5" independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group, R6, R6' and R6" independently of one another represent a C1-C6 alkyl group, A, A', A", A‴ and A‴′ independently of one another represent a linear or branched, divalent C1-C20 alkylene group, R7 and R8 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group, an amino-C1-C6 alkyl group or a grouping of the formula (III) - (Aʺʺ)-Si(R6")d"(OR5")c" (III), c, represents an integer from 1 to 3, d represents the integer 3 - c, c' stands for an integer from 1 to 3, d' stands for the integer 3 - c', c" stands for an integer from 1 to 3, d" stands for the integer 3 - c", e stands for 0 or 1, f stands for 0 or 1, g stands for 0 or 1, h stands for 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals from e, f,g and h is different from 0. ,
[0024] The substituents R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 , R 5 ′, R 5 ʺ, R 6 , R 6 ′, R 6 ʺ, R 7 , R 8 , L, A, A', A", A‴ and Aʺʺ in the compounds of formula (I) and (II) are exemplified below: Examples of a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Examples of a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C 2 -C 6 alkenyl radicals are vinyl and Allyl. Preferred examples of a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl, and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of an amino-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group, and the 3-aminopropyl group.The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of a linear divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH 2 -), the ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), the propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -), and the butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -). The propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) is particularly preferred. With a chain length of 3 carbon atoms or more, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C 3 -C 20 alkylene groups are (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-) and (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -).
[0025] The organic silicon compound of formula (IV) is R 9 Si(OR 10 ) k (R 11 ) m (IV) where R g represents a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group, R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, R 11 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, k represents an integer from 1 to 3, and m represents the integer 3-k.
[0026] The best care for stressed hair could be obtained if the anhydrous carrier medium contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I) or formula (II), in which the radicals R 3 , R 4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
[0027] Particularly suitable organic silicon compounds of formula (I) are (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane
[0028] The aforementioned organic silicon compounds of formula (I) are commercially available. (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, for example, can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
[0029] In a further embodiment, the anhydrous carrier medium contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II) (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si-(A) e -[NR 7 -(A')] f -[O-(A")] g -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' (II).
[0030] The organosilicon compounds of the formula (II) each carry the silicon-containing groups (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si- and -Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c , at both their ends.
[0031] In the middle part of the molecule of formula (II) are the groups -(A) e - and -[NR 7 -(A')] f - and -[O-(A")] g - and -[NR 8 -(A‴)] n -. Each of the radicals e, f, g and h can independently of one another represent the number 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals e, f, g and h is other than 0. In other words, an organic silicon compound of formula (II) contains at least one group from the group consisting of -(A)- and -[NR 7 -(A')]- and -[O-(A")]- and -[NR 8 -(A‴)]-.
[0032] In the two terminal structural units (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si- and - Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c , the radicals R5, R5', R5" independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group. The radicals R6, R6' and R6" independently of one another represent a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group.
[0033] Here, c represents an integer from 1 to 3, and d represents the integer 3 - c. If c represents the number 3, then d is 0. If c represents the number 2, then d is 1. If c represents the number 1, then d is 2.
[0034] Similarly, c' represents an integer from 1 to 3, and d' represents the integer 3 - c'. If c' represents the number 3, then d' is 0. If c' represents the number 2, then d' is 1. If c' represents the number 1, then d' is 2.
[0035] Highly preferred support media contain an organic silicon compound in which the radicals c and c' both represent the number 3. In this case, d and d' both represent the number 0.
[0036] In a further preferred embodiment, the anhydrous carrier medium of the two-component system contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II) (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si-(A) e -[NR 7 -(A')] f -[O-(A")] g -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' (II), where R5 and R5' independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group, c and c' both represent the number 3 and d and d' both represent the number 0.
[0037] If c and c' both represent the number 3 and d and d' both represent the number 0, the organic silicon compounds correspond to the formula (IIa) (R 5 O) 3 Si-(A) e -[NR 7 -(A')] f -[O-(A")] g -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -Si(OR 5 ') 3 (IIa).
[0038] The radicals e, f, g, and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, with at least one of e, f, g, and h being different from zero. The abbreviations e, f, g, and h therefore define which of the groups -(A) e - and -[NR 7 -(A')] f - and -[O-(A")] g - and -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h - are located in the central part of the organic silicon compound of formula (II).
[0039] In this context, the presence of certain moieties has proven particularly advantageous in increasing the care effect. Particularly good results were obtained when at least two of the residues e, f, g, and h represent the number 1. Most preferably, e and f both represent the number 1. Furthermore, most preferably, g and h both represent the number 0.
[0040] If e and f both represent the number 1 and g and h both represent the number 0, the organic silicon compounds correspond to the formula (IIb) (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si-(A)-[NR 7 -(A')]-Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' (IIb).
[0041] The radicals A, A', A", A‴ and A′‴ independently of one another represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group. Preferably, the radicals A, A', A", A‴ and Aʺʺ independently of one another represent a linear, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group. More preferably, the radicals A, A', A", A‴ and Aʺʺ independently of one another represent a linear, divalent C 1 -C 6 -alkylene group. More preferably, the radicals A, A', A", A‴ and A′‴ independently of one another represent a methylene group (-CH 2 -), an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) or a butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -). Most preferably, the radicals A, A', A", A‴ and A‴′ represent a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
[0042] If the residue f represents the number 1, then the organic silicon compound of formula (II) contains a structural group -[NR 7 -(A')]-.
[0043] If the residue h stands for the number 1, then the organic silicon compound of formula (II) contains a structural group -[NR 8 -(A‴)]-.
[0044] Here, the radicals R 7 and R 8 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, an amino-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or a grouping of the formula (III) - (Aʺʺ)-Si(R 6 ") d "(OR 5 ") c " (III).
[0045] Most preferably, the radicals R 7 and R 8 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of the formula (III).
[0046] If the residue f represents the number 1 and the residue h represents the number 0, the organic silicon compound contains the group [NR 7 -(A')], but not the group -[NR 8 -(A‴)]. If the residue R 7 represents a group of formula (III), the anhydrous carrier medium contains an organic silicon compound with three reactive silane groups.
[0047] In a further preferred embodiment, the anhydrous carrier medium of the two-component system contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II) (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si-(A) e -[NR 7 -(A')] f -[O-(A")] g -[NR 8 -(A‴)] h -Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' (II), where e and f both represent the number 1, g and h both represent the number 0, A and A' independently represent a linear, divalent C 1 -C 6 alkylene group and R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of the formula (III).
[0048] In a further preferred embodiment, the anhydrous carrier medium of the two-component system contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II), where e and f both represent the number 1, g and h both represent the number 0, A and A' independently of one another represent a methylene group (-CH 2 -), an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -) or a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 ), and R 7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of the formula (III).
[0049] Organic silicon compounds of formula (II) that are well suited to solving the problem are 3-(Trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine N-Methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine N-Methyl-3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine 2-[Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]-ethanol 2-[Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]-ethanol 3-(Trimethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine N1,N1-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine, N1,N1-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine, N,N-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amine N,N-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amine
[0050] The above-mentioned organic silicon compounds of formula (II) are commercially available.
[0051] Bis(trimethoxysilylpropyl)amine with CAS number 82985-35-1 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
[0052] Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amine, also known as 3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine, with CAS number 13497-18-2 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example, or is commercially available from Evonik under the product name Dynasylan 1122.
[0053] N-Methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine is alternatively known as bis(3-trimethoxysilylpropyl)-N-methylamine and can be purchased commercially from Sigma-Aldrich or Fluorochem.
[0054] 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine with CAS number 18784-74-2 can be purchased from Fluorochem or Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
[0055] In a further preferred embodiment, the anhydrous carrier medium of the two-component system contains, in addition to the organic silicon compounds of formula (I) and (IV), at least one further organic silicon compound of formula (II).
[0056] In the organic silicon compounds of formula (IV), the radical R 9 represents a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group.
[0057] This C 1 -C 12 alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched. R 9 is preferably a linear C 1 -C 8 alkyl group. R 9 is preferably a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group, or an n-dodecyl group. R 9 is particularly preferably a methyl group, an ethyl group, or an n-octyl group.
[0058] In the organic silicon compounds of formula (IV), the radical R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group. Particularly preferably, R 10 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
[0059] In the organic silicon compounds of formula (IV), the radical R 11 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0060] R 11 particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
[0061] Furthermore, k represents an integer from 1 to 3, and m represents the integer 3 - k. If k represents the number 3, then m is 0. If k represents the number 2, then m is 1. If k represents the number 1, then m is 2.
[0062] It has proven very advantageous that the anhydrous carrier medium contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (IV), in which the radical k represents the number 3. In this case, the radical m represents the number 0.
[0063] Organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) which are particularly suitable for solving the problem are Methyltrimethoxysilane Methyltriethoxysilane Ethyltrimethoxysilane Ethyltriethoxysilane n-Hexyltrimethoxysilane n-Hexyltriethoxysilane n-Octyltrimethoxysilane n-Octyltriethoxysilane n-dodecyltrimethoxysilane and / or n-Dodecyltriethoxysilane and propyltrimethylsilane and / or propyltriethoxysilane.
[0064] The organic silicon compounds described above are reactive compounds.
[0065] It has been found that particularly stable and uniform films could be obtained on the keratin material if the anhydrous carrier medium contains two structurally different organic silicon compounds.
[0066] The anhydrous carrier medium is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I) and at least one organic silicon compound of formula (IV).
[0067] In an explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, an anhydrous carrier medium is characterized in that it contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) which is selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, and additionally contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) which is selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane and hexyltriethoxysilane.
[0068] In a further preferred embodiment, an anhydrous carrier medium is characterized in that the anhydrous carrier medium - based on the total weight of the anhydrous carrier medium - contains: 0.5 to 5 wt.% of at least one first organic silicon compound selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, and 3.2 to 10 wt.% of at least one second organic silicon compound selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane,
[0069] Octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane and dodecyltriethoxysilane.
[0070] Even the addition of small amounts of water leads to hydrolysis in organic silicon compounds with at least one hydrolyzable group. The hydrolysis products and / or organic silicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group can react with each other in a condensation reaction. For this reason, both the organic silicon compounds with at least one hydrolyzable group and their hydrolysis and / or condensation products can be present in the anhydrous carrier medium. When using organic silicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group, both the organic silicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group and their condensation products can be present in the anhydrous carrier medium.
[0071] A condensation product is a product formed by the reaction of at least two organic silicon compounds, each containing at least one hydroxyl group or hydrolyzable group per molecule, with the elimination of water and / or an alkanol. The condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, with the condensation products being in equilibrium with the monomers. Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the equilibrium shifts from monomeric organic silicon compounds to condensation product.
[0072] In the context of the present invention, unless otherwise stated, data in wt. % always refer to the total weight of the anhydrous carrier medium. Where appropriate, the data in wt. % refer to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
[0073] The second component of the two-component system of the present invention is an aqueous phase. This second component necessarily contains water and an alkali metal hydroxide. The alkali metal hydroxide provides the pliability, i.e., straightening, of the hair.
[0074] Various possibilities for shaping hair are described in the prior art. Permanent shaping of keratin-containing fibers is usually carried out by mechanically shaping the fiber and fixing the shape using suitable aids. Before and / or after this shaping, the fiber is treated with a keratin-reducing preparation. After a rinsing process, the fiber is then treated with an oxidizing agent preparation in the so-called fixing step, rinsed, and freed from the shaping aids (curlers, curlers) after or during the fixing step. If a mercaptan, e.g.
[0075] If ammonium thioglycolate is used, this splits some of the disulfide bridges of the keratin molecule into -SH groups, resulting in a softening of the keratin fiber. During the subsequent oxidative fixation, disulfide bridges are again formed in the hair keratin, so that the keratin structure is fixed in the predetermined deformation. Alternatively, it is known to use sulfite instead of mercaptans for hair deformation. By means of hydrogen sulfite solutions and / or sulfite solutions and / or disulfite solutions, disulfide bridges of the keratin are split in a sulfitolysis according to the equation R - S - S - R + HSO 3 -< R - SH + R - S - SO 3 -<, thus achieving a softening of the keratin fiber. Reducing agents containing hydrogen sulfite, sulfite, or disulfite do not have the strong inherent odor of mercaptan-containing agents.As previously described, the cleavage can be reversed in a fixation step using an oxidizing agent to form new disulfide bridges.
[0076] The described permanent straightening procedure places extraordinary stress on the hair. If a less permanent straightening effect is desired, it is also possible to apply an alkaline solution to the hair. The hair can then be straightened by applying mechanical stress after and / or during the exposure to the alkaline solution.
[0077] In the present invention, the alkali metal hydroxide in the aqueous phase of the two-component system, after mixing the aqueous phase and the anhydrous carrier medium, results in the two-component system acquiring an alkaline pH value and the two-component system being able to be used for hair shaping, in particular straightening.
[0078] The anhydrous carrier medium must contain three components: at least one branched or linear C8-C30 alkane, at least one branched or linear C10-C30 fatty alcohol, and at least one branched or linear monohydric C2-C8 alcohol. In the course of the work leading to this invention, it has been found that, in order to achieve a particularly good care effect, it is particularly advantageous if the three components are combined with the organic silicon compounds, for example 3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine, i.e. a bis(triethoxysilylpropyl)amine, in the anhydrous carrier medium with the aqueous phase.By excluding water in the anhydrous carrier medium, the organic silicon compound is protected from premature hydrolysis. It is converted into a hair care emulsion only when needed by mixing with a water phase, which activates the organic silicon compound through a hydrolysis reaction shortly before application. Surprisingly, it was found that the combination of bis(triethoxysilylpropyl)amine and the three components necessarily contained in the anhydrous carrier medium increases cosmetic acceptance. Hair is soft, combability is significantly improved, and the hair surface is more hydrophobic, especially in chemically treated hair. At the same time, gentle hair straightening is achieved.
[0079] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the alkane in the two-component system is a C10-C24 alkane, preferably a C12-C18 alkane, and more preferably a C14-C16 alkane. The alkane is preferably present in the anhydrous carrier medium in an amount of 1 to 50 wt.%, preferably 2 to 45 wt.%, more preferably 3 to 40 wt.%, and even more preferably 4 to 35 wt.%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous carrier medium. A designation Cx to Cy always means that the hydrocarbon chain has x to y carbon atoms.
[0080] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the anhydrous carrier is an anhydrous concentrate. In this embodiment, the amount of alkane in the anhydrous carrier is 5 to 90 wt.%, preferably 10 to 70 wt.%, more preferably 15 to 50 wt.%.
[0081] According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol is a C12-C24 fatty alcohol, preferably a C14-C18 fatty alcohol, wherein the fatty alcohol is preferably present in the anhydrous carrier medium in an amount of 5 to 50 wt.%, more preferably 6 to 45 wt.%, even more preferably 7 to 40 wt.%, most preferably 8 to 35 wt.%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous carrier medium.
[0082] According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the alcohol is a C3-C6 alcohol, preferably a C4-C5 alcohol, wherein the alcohol is preferably present in the anhydrous carrier medium in an amount of 4 to 50 wt.%, preferably 6 to 45 wt.%, more preferably 8 to 40 wt.%, even more preferably 10 to 30 wt.%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous carrier medium. A monohydric alcohol is understood to mean an alcohol with only one OH function.
[0083] According to preferred embodiments, the two-component system comprises emulsifiers so that its components, i.e., the anhydrous carrier medium and the aqueous phase, can be homogenized and form a homogeneous phase during the preparation of the ready-to-use cosmetic product. According to these preferred embodiments, the emulsifier(s) is / are contained either in the aqueous phase or in the anhydrous carrier medium, but preferably in the aqueous phase.
[0084] A preferred emulsifier is an alkyltrimonium compound with one or more C8-C22, preferably C10-C18, and even more preferably C12-C16 alkyl groups. An alkyltrimonium compound is a nitrogen-containing compound that is cationic and carries at least one, preferably several, organic radicals. The number of organic radicals plus hydrogen always equals four.
[0085] Another preferred emulsifier is a fatty alcohol ethoxylate in which the fatty alcohol part of the fatty alcohol ethoxylate has an alkyl chain length of C4-C30, preferably C6-C25, more preferably C8-C20, and / or in which the number of ethoxy groups in the fatty alcohol ethoxylate is from 2 to 120, preferably from 4 to 100, more preferably from 6 to 80, even more preferably from 8 to 60, most preferably from 10 to 40.
[0086] Furthermore, a preferred emulsifier is a fatty alcohol sulfate having a chain length of C8-C22, preferably C10-C20, more preferably C12-C18.
[0087] According to further preferred embodiments, the emulsifiers are present in specified amounts either in the anhydrous carrier medium or in the aqueous phase. A preferred two-component system contains the alkyltrimonium compound in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, in the aqueous phase, or the alkyltrimonium compound in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous carrier medium, in the anhydrous carrier medium.
[0088] According to a further preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol ethoxylate is contained in the aqueous phase in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.25 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, or the fatty alcohol ethoxylate is contained in the anhydrous carrier medium in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.25 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous carrier medium.
[0089] Furthermore, according to preferred embodiments, the fatty alcohol sulfate is contained in the aqueous phase in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.25 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, or the fatty alcohol sulfate is contained in the anhydrous carrier medium in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.25 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous carrier medium.
[0090] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the alkali metal hydroxide in the two-component system is lithium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or any mixture thereof, wherein the alkali metal hydroxide is preferably present in the aqueous phase in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt.% and more preferably 0.3 to 3 wt.%, based on the weight of the aqueous phase.
[0091] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the anhydrous carrier medium to the aqueous phase in the two-component system is from 1 to 10 to 10 to 1, preferably from 5 to 1 to 1 to 5, more preferably from 2 to 1 to 1 to 2.
[0092] In principle, all physiologically acceptable counterions can be used as counterions for the components present as salts.
[0093] In further preferred embodiments of the present invention, the aqueous phase or the anhydrous carrier medium may comprise further additional ingredients. The following ingredients are optional and are included in the two-component system in addition to the components described above.
[0094] In a further preferred two-component system, the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase contains a cationic surfactant, wherein the cationic surfactant is one of the following formula, wherein R 16 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, R 17 , R 18 independently represent a C7-C27 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group and X represents a physiologically acceptable anion, or wherein the cationic surfactant is one of the following formula, wherein R 19 , R 20 independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, R 21 , R 22 independently represent a C7-C27 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group and X represents a physiologically acceptable anion, or wherein the cationic surfactant is one of the following formula, NR 23 R 24 R 25 , wherein R 23 , R 24 independently of one another represent a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, and R 25 represents a C8-C28 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group.
[0095] Cationic surfactants of the formula NR 23 R 24 R 25 are amine derivatives, so-called pseudoquats. The organic radicals R 23 , R 24 , and R 25 are directly bonded to the nitrogen atom. In the acidic pH range, these are cationized, meaning the nitrogen atom is then protonated. Physiologically compatible counterions are suitable as counterions. Steamidopropyl dimethylamine is particularly preferred among these cationic surfactants.
[0096] In the present invention, the surfactants support the emulsification of the aqueous phase and the anhydrous carrier medium, or more generally, the emulsification of the water and oil phases. They are therefore optionally included in the two-component system.
[0097] The following describes further components of the hair treatment products which, in addition to the mandatory ingredients described above, may optionally be included in the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase.
[0098] According to further preferred embodiments, the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase further contains a skin moisturizer or further care agent selected from the group consisting of glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid, silanol esters of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, taurine, ceramides, phytosterols, aloe vera extracts, creatine, creatinine, sodium hyaluronate, polysaccharides, biosaccharide gum-1, cucumber extracts, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, methylpropanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, sorbitol, amino acids, with glycine, glycine soy, histidine, tyrosine, or tryptophan being particularly preferred amino acids, amino acid derivatives, natural betaine compounds, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or a salt of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, lactic acid, lactates, in particular sodium lactate, and / or ethylhexyloxyglycerin. In particular, the selection of these skin moisturizers increases the caring character of the anhydrous carrier medium.
[0099] According to a further preferred embodiment, the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase contains a plurality of emulsifiers or a plurality of surfactants. It is particularly preferred that the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase contains two structurally different surfactants / emulsifiers, wherein the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase preferably contains two structurally different cationic emulsifiers / surfactants, two different anionic emulsifiers / surfactants, a cationic surfactant / emulsifier and a nonionic surfactant / emulsifier, or an anionic surfactant / emulsifier and a nonionic surfactant / emulsifier.
[0100] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cationic surfactant used comprises a hydrophobic head group having a cationic charge and one or two hydrophobic end portions, wherein the hydrophobic end portion(s) represent straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl groups, which preferably have a chain length of C6 to C30, more preferably C8 to C26, particularly preferably C10 to C22.
[0101] According to a further preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactant has an ester function, an ether function, a ketone function, an alcohol function or an amide function.
[0102] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase contains as a further component a further non-ionic surfactant, which preferably comprises a non-ionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of the following: Alkylglucamide comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group, alkylfructoside comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group, alkylglucoside comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group, and alkyl alcohol alkoxylate of the formula R 10 (OR 11 ) m OH, in which R 10 is a linear or branched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group, R 11 is a C 2 to C 4 , preferably a C 2 alkyl group, and m is 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 6, more preferably 2 to 6.
[0103] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, one or more further anionic surfactants are included as a component in the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 16 to 18 C atoms, straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkylcarboxylic acids having 8 to 24, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 16 to 18 C atoms, straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkylphosphates having 8 to 24, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 16 to 18 C atoms, alkyl isethionate, whose alkyl group is selected from a branched or unbranched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group, in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate, alkylglycosidecarboxylic acids, whose alkyl group is selected from a branched or unbranched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group, alkyl sulfosuccinates, whose two alkyl groups are selected from the same or different, branched or unbranched C 2 to C 12 , preferably C 4 to C 10 ,more preferably C 6 to C 8 alkyl groups, alkyl taurates, whose alkyl group is selected from a branched or unbranched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group, alkyl sarcosinates, whose alkyl group is selected from a branched or unbranched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 16 to 18 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, , wherein the counterion of the anionic surfactant is an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion or a protonated triethanolamine or the ammonium ion.
[0104] Most preferably, the aqueous phase contains a surfactant mixture of anionic and amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants sodium lauryl ether sulfate (INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) and most preferably sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 ethylene oxide units.
[0105] Amphoteric surfactants, also known as zwitterionic surfactants, are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO-< - or -SO 3 -< group in the molecule. Amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants also include surface-active compounds that, in addition to a C 8 - C 24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO 3 H- group and are capable of forming inner salts.
[0106] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase contains at least one amphoteric surfactant as a further component. The amphoteric surfactants in the anhydrous carrier medium are preferably selected from the group consisting of Alkylbetaine comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group, alkylamphodiacetate or alkylamphodiacetate comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group, with an alkali or alkaline earth metal counterion, and alkylamidopropylbetaine comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C 6 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 18 , more preferably C 12 to C 16 alkyl group.
[0107] Particularly suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants include the surfactants known under the INCI name Cocamidopropylbetaine and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate.
[0108] The anhydrous carrier medium can be used in particular for producing an agent for smoothing a keratin material, an agent for caring for a keratin material, an agent for caring for and cleaning a keratin material and / or an agent for coloring a keratin material.
[0109] It may be preferred that the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase for treating a keratinous material further comprises 0.001 to 20 wt.% of at least one quaternary compound. This applies in particular to anhydrous carrier media or aqueous phases used for the preparation of a care product for a keratinous material or for the care and cleaning of a keratinous material.
[0110] It is preferred that the at least one quaternary compound is selected from at least one of the groups consisting of i) the monoalkylquats and / or ii) the esterquats and / or iii) the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2), in which the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A represents a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or iv) the amidoamines and / or cationized amidoamines and / or v) poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or;vi) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or vii) cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or viii) cationized honey and / or ix) cationic guar derivatives and / or x) chitosan and / or xi) polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-7 and / or xii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular Polyquaternium-11 and / or xiii) vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, in particular Polyquaternium-16 and / or xiv) quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or xv) Polyquaternium-74, ; and mixtures thereof.
[0111] It is particularly preferred that the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase contains a cationic homopolymer, which falls under the INCI name Polyquaternium-37, as quaternary compounds.
[0112] It may be preferred that the anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase further comprises a strengthening compound, preferably selected from the group consisting of waxes, synthetic polymers and mixtures thereof.
[0113] To meet the diverse requirements of cosmetic products used to treat keratinous materials for temporarily reshaping keratinous materials (= styling products), a variety of synthetic polymers have been developed as setting compounds that can be used in the treatment of keratinous materials. Waxes are used as setting compounds alternatively or additionally. Ideally, when applied to the keratinous material, the polymers and / or waxes form a polymer film or film that, on the one hand, provides strong hold to the hairstyle, but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress.
[0114] The synthetic polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric strengthening polymers.
[0115] Geeignete synthetische Polymere umfassen beispielsweise Polymere mit den folgenden INCI-Bezeichnungen: Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamides / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylate / Stearyl Acrylate / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide / Diphenyl Amodimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylate / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer,Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Allyl Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aminoethylacrylate Phosphate / Acrylates Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol-Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol-AMPD-Acrylates / Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD-Acrylates / Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates / Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, Bacillus / Rice Bran Extract / Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate, Bis- Butyloxyamodimethicone / PEG-60 Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer,Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, MEA-Sulfite, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, PEG / PPG-25 / 25 Dimethicone / Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-8 / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylamide, Polyacrylate-6, Polybeta-Alanine / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1, Polyethylacrylate, Polyethylene Terephthalate,Polymethacryloyl Ethyl Betaine, Polypentaerythrityl Terephthalate, Polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polysilicone-9, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-10, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinylcaprolactam,Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-70 Polyglyceryl-10 Ether, PPG-12 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-51 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Sorbitol, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin Acrylate, Shellac, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sterculia Urens Gum, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, VA / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer,VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer, VP / VA Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate, and Styrene / VP Copolymer. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, and methylhydroxypropylcellulose are also suitable.
[0116] Homopolyacrylic acid (INCI: Carbomer), which is commercially available in various forms under the name Carbopol ®<, is also suitable as a strengthening compound.
[0117] The strengthening compound preferably comprises a vinylpyrrolidone-containing polymer. The strengthening compound particularly preferably comprises a polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer (VP / VA copolymer), vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (INCI), VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer (INCI), and mixtures thereof.
[0118] Another preferred strengthening compound is Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (INCI), which is marketed by Akzo Nobel under the name "Amphomer ®< ".
[0119] Accordingly, it is particularly preferred that the strengthening compound comprises a synthetic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer (VP / VA copolymer), vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (INCI), VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer (INCI), octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (INCI) and mixtures thereof.
[0120] In addition to or as an alternative to a synthetic polymer, the cosmetic products may contain at least one natural or synthetic wax having a melting point above 37 °C as a setting compound.
[0121] Natural or synthetic waxes that can be used include solid paraffins or isoparaffins, plant waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, esparto grass wax, Japan wax, cork wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes, and animal waxes such as beeswax and other insect waxes, spermaceti, shellac wax, wool wax, and lop-tail wax, as well as mineral waxes such as ceresin and ozokerite, or petrochemical waxes such as petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes made of polyethylene or polypropylene, and polyethylene glycol waxes. It may be advantageous to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. Chemically modified waxes, particularly hard waxes such as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, and hydrogenated jojoba waxes, can also be used.
[0122] Also suitable are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C16-30 fatty acids, such as hydrogenated triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate.
[0123] The wax components can also be selected from the group of esters of saturated, unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 22 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated, unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 22 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or the entire wax components are solid at room temperature. Silicone waxes, for example, stearyltrimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol, may also be advantageous.
[0124] Natural, chemically modified, and synthetic waxes can be used alone or in combination. However, this does not include alkanes, which are mandatory in the anhydrous carrier medium according to the invention. Multiple waxes can also be used. Furthermore, a number of wax blends, optionally blended with other additives, are commercially available. Examples of suitable mixtures are those known as "Spezialwachs 7686 OE" (a mixture of cetyl palmitate, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75 °C; manufacturer: Kahl & Co), Polywax ®< GP 200 (a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate with a melting point of 47-51 °C; manufacturer: Croda), and "Weichceresin ®< FL 400" (a petroleum jelly / vaseline oil / wax mixture with a melting point of 50-54 °C; manufacturer: Parafluid Mineralölgesellschaft).
[0125] Preferably, the wax is selected from carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), beeswax (INCI: Beeswax), petrolatum (INCI), microcrystalline wax and in particular mixtures thereof.
[0126] Preferred mixtures include the combination of carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), petrolatum and microcrystalline wax or the combination of beeswax (INCI: Beeswax) and petrolatum.
[0127] The wax or wax components should be solid at 25 °C and melt in the range > 37 °C
[0128] The anhydrous carrier medium or the aqueous phase preferably contains the setting compound in a total amount of 0.5 to 50 wt.%, preferably 1 to 40 wt.%, more preferably 1.5 to 30 wt.%, even more preferably 2 to 25 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0129] Other suitable ingredients include non-ionic polymers, anionic polymers, (other) cationic polymers, waxes, protein hydrolysates, amino acids, oligopeptides, vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors, betaines, bioquinones, purine (derivatives), plant extracts, silicones, ester oils, UV light protection filters, structuring agents, thickeners, electrolytes, pH adjusters, swelling agents, dyes, anti-dandruff agents, complexing agents, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, pigments, stabilizers, propellants, antioxidants, perfume oils and / or preservatives.
[0130] A further subject matter of the present application is the use of the two-component system for smoothing a keratin material, for caring for a keratin material and / or for caring for and cleaning a keratin material.
[0131] With regard to further preferred embodiments of the use, what has been said regarding the anhydrous carrier media applies mutatis mutandis.
Claims
1. A two-component system for smoothing and nourishing keratinous material, separately comprising • a water-free carrier medium as the first component, comprising a) at least one branched or linear C8-C30 alkane, b) at least one branched or linear C10-C30 fatty alcohol, c) at least one branched or linear monohydric C2-C8 alcohol, and d) at least one organosilicon compound, wherein the at least one organosilicon compound contains a compound of formula (I) and at least one organosilicon compound of formula (IV), wherein in the organosilicon compound of formula (I), R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I), - R1 and R2 both represent a hydrogen atom, - L represents a linear, divalent C1-C6 alkylene group, preferably a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) or an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), - R3 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a methyl group or an ethyl group, - a represents the number 3, and - b represents the number 0, and wherein in the organosilicon compound of formula (IV), R9Si(OR10)k(R11)m (IV), - R9 represents a C1-C12 alkyl group, - R10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group, - R11 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, - k represents an integer from 1 to 3, and - m represents the integer 3 - k, and • an aqueous phase as a second component, comprising water and an alkali metal hydroxide.
2. The two-component system according to claim 1, characterized in that the water-free carrier medium further comprises at least one organosilicon compound which is a compound of formula (II), wherein in the organosilicon compound of formula (II), (R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A')]f-[O-(A")]g-[NR8-(A‴)]h-Si(R6')d'(OR5')c' (II), - Rs, R5', R5", R6, R6' and R6" represent, independently of one another, a C1-C6 alkyl group, - A, A', A", A‴ and Aʺʺ represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, divalent C1-C20 alkylene group, - R7 and R8 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy C1-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group, an amino C1-C6 alkyl group, or a group of formula (III), - (Aʺʺ)-Si(R6")d"(OR5")c" (III), - c represents an integer from 1 to 3, - d represents the integer 3 - c, - c' represents an integer from 1 to 3, - d' represents the integer 3 - c', - c" represents an integer from 1 to 3, - d" represents the integer 3 - c", - e represents 0 or 1, - f represents 0 or 1, - g represents 0 or 1, - h represents 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the functional groups of e, f, g and h is different from 0.
3. The two-component system according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the two-component system for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organosilicon compound of formula (I), which is selected from the group consisting of - (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, - (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, - (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, and - (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane.
4. The two-component system according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that the two-component system contains at least one organosilicon compound of formula (II), selected from the group consisting of - 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - 3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - N-methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - N-methyl-3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - 2-[bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]ethanol - 2-[bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amino]ethanol - 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - 3-(triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine - N1,N1-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine, - N1,N1-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine, - N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amine, and - N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-2-propen-1-amine.
5. The two-component system according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the two-component system contains at least one organosilicon compound of formula (IV), R9Si(OR10)k(R11)m (IV), which is selected from the group consisting of - methyltrimethoxysilane - methyltriethoxysilane - ethyltrimethoxysilane - ethyltriethoxysilane - propyltrimethoxysilane - propyltriethoxysilane - hexyltrimethoxysilane - hexyltriethoxysilane - octyltrimethoxysilane - octyltriethoxysilane - dodecyltrimethoxysilane and - dodecyltriethoxysilane.
6. The two-component system according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the organosilicon compound is contained in the water-free carrier medium in an amount of from 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.02 to 9 wt.%, more preferably from 0.05 to 8 wt.%, most preferably from 0.1 to 7 wt.%, based on the total weight of the water-free carrier medium, wherein the organosilicon compound is (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane in particular.
7. The two-component system according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the alkane is a C10-C24 alkane, preferably a C12-C18 alkane and more preferably a C14-C16 alkane, and / or wherein the alkane is contained in the water-free carrier medium in an amount of 1 to 50 wt.%, preferably 2 to 45 wt.%, more preferably 3 to 40 wt.%, even more preferably 4 to 35 wt.%, based on the total weight of the water-free carrier medium, and / or characterized in that the fatty alcohol is a C12-C24 fatty alcohol, preferably a C14-C18 fatty alcohol, and / or wherein the fatty alcohol is contained in the water-free carrier medium in an amount of 5 to 50 wt.%, preferably 6 to 45 wt.%, more preferably 7 to 40 wt.%, even more preferably 8 to 35 wt.%, based on the total weight of the water-free carrier medium, and / or characterized in that the alcohol is a C3-C6 alcohol, preferably a C4-C5 alcohol, and / or wherein the alcohol is contained in the water-free carrier medium in an amount of 4 to 50 wt.%, preferably 6 to 45 wt.%, more preferably 8 to 40 wt.%, even more preferably 10 to 30 wt.%, based on the total weight of the water-free carrier medium.
8. The two-component system according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the aqueous phase or the water-free carrier medium comprises one or more emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier is preferably an alkyltrimonium compound having one or more C8-C22 alkyl groups, more preferably C10-C18, even more preferably C12-C16, and / or wherein the emulsifier is preferably a fatty alcohol ethoxylate in which the fatty alcohol part of the fatty alcohol ethoxylate has an alkyl chain length of C4-C30, preferably C6-C25, more preferably C8-C20, and / or in which the number of ethoxy groups in the fatty alcohol ethoxylate is 2 to 120, preferably 4 to 100, more preferably 6 to 80, even more preferably 8 to 60, most preferably 10 to 40, and / or wherein the emulsifier is preferably a fatty alcohol sulfate having a chain length of C8-C22, preferably C10-C20, more preferably C12-C18.
9. The two-component system according to claim 8, characterized in that the alkyltrimonium compound is contained in the aqueous phase in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, or the alkyltrimonium compound is contained in the water-free carrier medium in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the water-free carrier medium, and / or characterized in that the fatty alcohol ethoxylate is contained in the aqueous phase in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, or the fatty alcohol ethoxylate is contained in the water-free carrier medium in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the water-free carrier medium, and / or characterized in that the fatty alcohol sulfate is contained in the aqueous phase in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, or the fatty alcohol sulfate is contained in the water-free carrier medium in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the water-free carrier medium.
10. The two-component system according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the alkali metal hydroxide is lithium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or any mixture thereof, wherein the alkali metal hydroxide is preferably contained in the aqueous phase in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt.% and more preferably 0.3 to 3 wt. %, based on the weight of the aqueous phase.
11. The two-component system according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the weight ratio of the water-free carrier medium to the aqueous phase is in the range from 1 to 10 to 10 to 1, preferably 5 to 1 to 1 to 5, more preferably from 2 to 1 to 1 to 2.
12. A use of a two-component system according to one of claims 1 to 11 for smoothing a keratinous material, for nourishing a keratinous material and / or for nourishing and cleaning a keratinous material.