Agent for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers and process using this agent

Abstract

The present invention relates to an agent for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers, and also to a process for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers using this agent.

Description

AGENT FOR THE SIMULTANEOUS BLEACHING AND DYEING OF KERATIN FIBERS AND PROCESS USING THIS AGENTTECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to an agent for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers, and also to a process for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers using this agent.BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] When a person wishes to radically change hair color, in particular when he or she wishes to obtain a lighter color than his or her original color, it is often necessary to carry out bleaching and then dyeing of the hair. Several methods exist for doing this.

[0003] The first method consists in using lightening products based on aqueous ammonia and hydrogen peroxide. These products may optionally contain dyes, which makes it possible simultaneously to lighten and dye the hair. However, the lightening performance results of these products remain limited, more particularly for applications to natural and / or dyed dark-colored hair.

[0004] In order to obtain a greater lightening of the hair, the second method consists in using a lightening composition generally in the form of a pulverulent composition based on peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, and alkaline agents, said composition being mixed at the time of use with an aqueous oxidizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide. Mixing the two compositions is therefore not easy. This results not only in a relatively long mixing time but also in difficulties in obtaining a homogeneous mixture or even in difficulties in applying the mixture obtained to the hair. The mixture can in fact be difficult to spread uniformly over a whole head of hair, in particular curly or frizzy heads of hair, which can lead to undesired patchy lightening performance. In addition, these treatments based on peroxygenated salts are generally accompanied by the appearance of unsightly yellow and / or orangey tints. In order to overcome this problem, the compositions can comprise direct dyes making it possible to simultaneously bleach and dye the hair with the aim of obtaining a more esthetic color result.

[0005] However, the range of direct dyes that can be used in these compositions remains restricted since only stable direct dyes can be used under such conditions in order to obtain good build-up of the coloring and powerful and chromatic colors. In order to attempt to remedy this stability problem, it has been envisioned to perform the process in two steps: a first step during which the hair is bleached using the lightening composition, and then a second step during which the hair is dyed using a composition comprising direct dyes. However, a two-step process is not satisfactory since, in addition to creating numerous handling procedures, it exhibits the disadvantage of being relatively long and can result in a greater deterioration in the quality of the fiber.

[0006] There thus exists a real need to develop an agent for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers comprising direct dyes, the agent having both good lightening properties and good dyeing properties, particularly when it is applied to dark-colored hair, and making it possible in particular to obtain in particular good build-up of the coloring and also powerful, natural and chromatic colors or else to obtain good neutralization of the unsightly yellow and / or orangey tints. Furthermore, such an agent may comprise a wide range of direct dyes making it possible to obtain the shade sought by the user. This agent may be used in a process for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers in a single step. Such an agent will also have to be more respectful of the quality of the fibers. Moreover, the agent will have to have very good qualities of use, in particular using compositions that are easy to mix before use and easy to apply to keratin fibers. Finally, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, that is to say products of which the design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing toward meeting global challenges. It is thus essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues.

[0007] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that all or some of these objectives can be achieved by means of the agent according to the present invention.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0008] According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is an agent for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers in two or three parts comprising:a) a first composition (A) comprising:- one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates and (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and mixtures thereof;- one or more silicates;- one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof;- less than 5% by weight of persulfates; and- optionally one or more direct dyes;b) a second composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof, the chemical oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide; andc) optionally a third composition (C) comprising one or more direct dyes;it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0009] According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition resulting from mixing the composition (A) as defined above with the composition (B) as defined above and optionally with the composition (C) as defined above, it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0010] According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is a process for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers comprising:i) a step of mixing the composition (A) as defined above with a composition (B) as defined above and optionally with a composition (C) as defined above; andii) a step of applying, to the keratin fibers, a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i);it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0011] According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present invention is a device comprising at least two or three compartments, for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers, comprising:i) at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined above;ii) at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined above; andiii) optionally at least a third compartment containing a composition as (C) as defined above;it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0012] According to a fifth aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of an agent as defined above for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers.

[0013] According to a sixth aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition (A) as defined above, the composition (A) comprising one or more direct dyes.

[0014] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:

[0016] ▪ the term “keratin fibers” means fibers of human or animal origin, such as head hair, bodily hairs, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially head hair;

[0017] ▪ the term “(bi)carbonate” means a carbonate or a bicarbonate;

[0018] ▪ the term “chemical oxidizing agent” means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

[0019] ▪ the term “silicate” means a silicic acid salt.

[0020] ▪ the term “salt” means an addition salt with an organic or mineral acid or base. The addition salts with an acid are notably chosen from addition salts with acids such as hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, tosylic acid, benzenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid or acetic acid. The addition salts with a base are in particular chosen from the addition salts with bases such as the basifying agents described below, in particular alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0021] ▪ the term “direct dye” means a natural and / or synthetic dye, including in the form of an extract or extracts, other than oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds that will spread superficially on the fiber.They may be ionic or nonionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or nonionic.

[0022] The terms “at least one” and “one or more” are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.

[0023] The expressions “between … and …”, “comprises from … to …”, “formed from … to …” and “ranging from … to …” should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

[0024] The terms “lightening” and “bleaching” are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.

[0025] Agent for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers

[0026] According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is an agent for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers in two or three parts as defined above.

[0027] The compositions (A), (B) and (C) are distinct compositions.

[0028] The applicant has found, surprisingly, that the agent according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a satisfactory level of lightening and also better build-up of the coloring and powerful, natural and chromatic colors. The agent also makes it possible to neutralize any unsightly yellow and / or orangey tints. Thus, the agent according to the invention can be used in a single-step process for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers.

[0029] Moreover, the agent according to the invention is more respectful of the quality of the fibers, notably minimizing their degradation. Finally, the agent has very good qualities of use, in particular using compositions that are easy to mix before use and easy to apply to keratin fibers.

[0030] Preferably, the agent according to the invention is in two parts and comprises:a) a first composition (A) comprising:- one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates and (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and mixtures thereof;- one or more silicates;- one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof;- less than 5% by weight of persulfates; and- one or more direct dyes; andb) a second composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof, the chemical oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide.

[0031] Thus, when the agent is in two parts, the direct dye(s) are included in the composition (A).

[0032] Alternatively, the agent according to the invention is in three parts and comprises:a) a first composition (A) comprising:- one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates and (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and mixtures thereof;- one or more silicates;- one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and- optionally one or more direct dyes;b) a second composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof, the chemical oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide; andc) a third composition (C) comprising one or more direct dyes.

[0033] Thus, when the agent is in three parts, the composition (C) comprises one or more direct dyes and the composition (A) may also comprise one or more direct dyes. Preferably, when the agent is in three parts, the composition (A) does not comprise direct dyes.Composition (A)

[0034] The composition (A) of the agent comprises:- one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates and (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and mixtures thereof;- one or more silicates;- one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof;- less than 5% by weight of persulfates; and- optionally one or more direct dyes.Compounds C

[0035] The composition (A) according to the invention comprises one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates and (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof.

[0036] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds C chosen from carbonates, bicarbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] More preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds C chosen from ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.Carbonates and / or carbonate-generating systems

[0038] The compound(s) C present in the composition (A) may be chosen from carbonates and carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates.

[0039] The term “carbonate-generating system” means a system which generates carbonatein situ, for instance carbon dioxide in water or percarbonate in water.

[0040] When present in the composition (A), the carbonates are preferably chosen from:- alkali metal carbonates;- alkaline-earth metal carbonates;- lanthanide carbonates;- transition metal carbonates;- bismuth carbonate;- cadmium carbonate;- thallium carbonate;- zinc carbonate;- the compounds of formula (N+R1R2R3R4)2CO32-wherein R1, R2, R3and R4represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;- guanidine carbonate;- mixtures thereof.

[0041] More preferentially, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, cesium carbonate, lithium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, barium carbonate, strontium carbonate, cerium carbonate, lanthanum carbonate, yttrium carbonate, copper(II) carbonate, manganese carbonate, nickel carbonate, silver carbonate, zirconium carbonate, bismuth carbonate, cadmium carbonate, thallium carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate, tetraethylammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Even more preferentially, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, cesium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, cerium carbonate, manganese carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Most preferentially, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, ammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Particularly preferably, the carbonate included in the composition (A) is ammonium carbonate.

[0045] Bicarbonates and / or bicarbonate-generating systems

[0046] The compound(s) C present in the composition (A) are preferably chosen from bicarbonates and bicarbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from bicarbonates.

[0047] The term “bicarbonate-generating system” means a system which generates bicarbonatein situ, for instance carbon dioxide in water or by buffering a carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.

[0048] When present in the composition (A), the bicarbonates are preferably chosen from:- alkali metal bicarbonates;- alkaline-earth metal bicarbonates;- the compounds of formula N+R1R2R3R4HCO3-wherein R1, R2, R3and R4represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;- aminoguanidine bicarbonate;- mixtures thereof.

[0049] More preferentially, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Even more preferentially, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Most preferentially, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Particularly preferably, the bicarbonate included in the composition (A) is ammonium bicarbonate.

[0053] The bicarbonates may originate from a natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin or from La Roche Posay or Badoit water.

[0054] Preferably, the compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, most preferably ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0055] When present in the composition (A), the bicarbonate(s) and / or the bicarbonate-generating system(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and better still ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0056] When present in the composition (A), the bicarbonate(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and better still ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0057] When present in the composition (A), the ammonium bicarbonate is preferably present in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and better still ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Silicates

[0058] The composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more silicates.

[0059] The silicate(s) are preferably water-soluble.

[0060] The term “water-soluble silicate” means a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.

[0061] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.

[0062] More preferentially, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Even more preferentially, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates.

[0064] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate (CAS: [1344-09-8]) and / or Sodium Metasilicate (CAS: [6834-92-0]).

[0065] The silicate(s) are present in the composition (A) preferably in a total content of at least 15% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 30% to 50% by weight, and better still from 35% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0066] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more silicates chosen from compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate (CAS: [1344-09-8]) and / or Sodium Metasilicate (CAS: [6834-92-0]), preferably in a total content of at least 15% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 30% to 50% by weight, and better still ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Compounds D

[0067] The composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] The term “fatty acid” means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They can optionally be hydroxylated.

[0069] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition (A) according to the invention include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0070] Preferably, the fatty acids include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular saturated, alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0071] More preferentially, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds having the structure R-C(O)OH wherein R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 5 to 39 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 9 to 29 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 11 to 23 carbon atoms and most preferentially from 13 to 21 carbon atoms.

[0072] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in the composition (A) are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0073] The fatty acid salts are preferably chosen from addition salts with an organic or mineral base, more preferentially chosen from addition salts with a mineral base. The mineral base is preferably chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sodium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The fatty acids may be chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids.

[0075] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solid fatty acid” means a fatty acid with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105Pa).

[0076] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Particularly more preferably, the solid fatty acid is stearic acid.

[0079] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid fatty acid” means a fatty acid with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105Pa).

[0080] The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferentially oleic acid.

[0081] Preferably, the compound(s) D are chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, most preferentially from stearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, better still from stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof, and even better still from sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] The compound(s) D are present in the composition (A) preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0083] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0084] More preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0085] Even more preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from stearic acid, sodium stearate and magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0086] Better still, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from sodium stearate and magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Fatty substances other than the compounds D

[0087] The composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D.

[0088] The composition (A) according to the invention preferably also comprises one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D.

[0089] The term “fatty substance” is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0090] Advantageously, the fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0091] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

[0092] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing any Si-O bonds and “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0093] The fatty substances of use according to the invention can be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. “Liquid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). “Solid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).

[0094] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105Pa).

[0095] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) present in the composition (A) are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] More preferentially, the fatty substance(s) present in the composition (A) are chosen from liquid fatty substances.

[0097] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention are chosen from C6to C16liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol, other than triglycerides, liquid fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol, other than triglycerides, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers such as dicapryl ether, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol, other than triglycerides, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate.

[0098] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters, acids and ethers more particularly have at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30, carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may include one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0099] As regards the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, they may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (INCI name: mineral oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

[0102] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.

[0104] “Fatty alcohol” is understood to mean a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0105] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsaturated or branched, alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, other than triglycerides, mention may particularly be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1to C26or branched C3to C26aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1to C26or branched C3to C26aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0107] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0108] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4to C22dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1to C22alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2to C26di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0111] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] As fatty esters, the composition (A) may also comprise sugar esters and diesters of C6to C30, preferably C12to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that a “sugar” is understood as meaning oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds having a plurality of alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0113] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0114] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6to C30, preferably C12to C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may include one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0115] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Examples of such esters may include oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof such as in particular mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.

[0117] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters, and of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates and mono- or dioleostearates in particular, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose and mixtures thereof.

[0118] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0119] Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a polyol. As an example of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a polyol, mention may be made of propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate.

[0120] The liquid fatty ethers which can be used in the composition (A) according to the present invention may be chosen from synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms. By way of example of liquid fatty ethers which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of dicapryl ether.

[0121] The solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

[0122] The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30, carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0124] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0125] The solid fatty alcohols capable of being used can be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0126] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0127] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from the esters resulting from C9-C26fatty carboxylic acid and / or from C9-C26fatty alcohol.

[0128] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0129] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26di-, tri-, tetra-or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0130] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26alkyl stearates, notably myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0132] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point that is greater than about 40°C and may be up to 200°C, and having anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0133] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax, notably of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0135] Mention may also be made of C20to C60microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0136] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.

[0137] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by Heterene.

[0138] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by Sophim, may also be used.

[0139] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by Koster Keunen.

[0140] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the composition (A); mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by Micro Powders.

[0141] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, such as cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0142] The ceramides or ceramide analogs, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the composition (A), are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0143] The ceramides or analogs thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), wherein:

[0144] - R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30fatty acid;

[0145] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0146] - R3 denotes a C15-C26hydrocarbon-based group saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26α-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30α-hydroxy acid.

[0147] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15group.

[0148] Preferentially, ceramides are used for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3group.

[0149] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22hydrocarbon-based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3group.

[0150] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0151] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] When present in the composition (A), the fatty substance(s) other than the compounds D are present in the composition (A) preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0153] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D, chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0154] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D, chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers such as dicapryl ether, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Associative polymers

[0155] The composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise one or more associative polymers.

[0156] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0157] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0158] The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0159] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

[0160] Associative polymers may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

[0161] Among the anionic associative polymers, mention may be made of:

[0162] - (a) those including at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those of which the hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, even more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0163] Among these anionic associative polymers, those that are particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

[0164] Among the latter polymers, those most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth-10), notably those sold by Ciba under the names Salcare SC 80® and Salcare SC 90®, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0165] - (b) those including i) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0166] (C10-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids of use in the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0167] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to patents US 3 915 921 and US 4 509 949.

[0168] Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, use will be made more particularly of those formed from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those formed from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described previously.

[0169] Among said polymers above, the ones most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, the product sold by Lubrizol under the trade name Carbopol ETD 2020 Polymer® (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), the product sold by S.E.P.C. under the name Coatex SX®, and even more preferentially Carbopol ETD 2020 Polymer®.

[0170] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by ISP.

[0171] - (c) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by Newphase Technologies.

[0172] - (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

[0173] i) approximately 20% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A],

[0174] ii) approximately 20% to 80% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated non-surfactant monomer other than [A],

[0175] iii) approximately 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,

[0176] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in example 3, namely a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 EO) terpolymer, as an aqueous 25% dispersion.

[0177] - (e) copolymers including, among their monomers, an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0178] Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4alcohol.

[0179] By way of example of compounds of this type, mention may be made of Aculyn 22® sold by Rohm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, and also Aculyn 88®, also sold by Rohm and Haas, or Aculyn 28® sold by Rohm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), and also Novethix L-10 Polymer® sold by Lubrizol.

[0180] - (f) amphiphilic polymers including at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.

[0181] The ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic group are notably chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C1-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.

[0182] More preferentially, use will be made of (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for instance acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.

[0183] Use will more particularly be made of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.

[0184] The polymers of this family may be chosen notably from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (which form an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, β-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0185] The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.

[0186] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not including a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, β-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0187] These copolymers are notably described in patent application EP-A 750 899, patent US 5 089 578 and in the following publications from Yotaro Morishima:- “Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures,Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336.”;- “Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering,Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10, (2000), 3694-3704”;- “Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior -Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332”;- “Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221”.

[0188] Among these polymers, mention may be made of:- crosslinked or noncrosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers including from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or of (C8-C16)alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A 750 899;- terpolymers including from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US-5 089 578.

[0189] Mention may also be made of copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also crosslinked and noncrosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.

[0190] Among the anionic associative polymers according to the invention, preference is given to polymers including i) at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the type (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid (family b)), and copolymers including among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol (family e)).

[0191] Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of:

[0192] (a) cationic associative polyurethanes;

[0193] (b) the compound sold by Noveon under the name Aqua CC and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

[0194] Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:a di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,one or more C1-C30alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,a polyethoxylated C10-C30alkyl methacrylate (20-25 mol of ethylene oxide units),a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether,a hydroxy(C2-C6alkyl) methacrylate, andan ethylene glycol dimethacrylate;

[0195] (c) quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by Aqualon, the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C18 alkyl) sold by Croda and the product Softcat SL 100® sold by Aqualon;

[0196] (d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.

[0197] Such polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0198] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, use is notably made of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers.

[0199] The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those including at least one noncyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, preference is given to those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol% and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty-chain monomer relative to the total number of moles of monomers.

[0200] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.

[0201] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, preference is given to acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.

[0202] The nonionic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0203] (a) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, of which examples that may be mentioned include:- the products Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer), sold by ISP;- the products Antaron V220® or Ganex V220® (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer), sold by ISP;

[0204] (b) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208®, or the copolymer with the INCI name “Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer”, such as the product Novethix L-10 polymer from Lubrizol;

[0205] (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers including at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

[0206] (d) polyurethane polyethers including in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences;

[0207] (e) polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by Sud-Chemie;

[0208] (f) celluloses or derivatives thereof, modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof wherein the alkyl groups are of C8-C22, and in particular:* nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (C16 alkyl) sold by Aqualon;* nonionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by Amerchol;* nonionic alkylcelluloses, such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel;

[0209] (g) associative guar derivatives, for instance hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified with a C22 alkyl chain) sold by Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie.

[0210] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers include at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being side chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more side chains to be envisioned. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

[0211] The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or starburst polymers.

[0212] The fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.

[0213] By extension, also included among the fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers are those wherein the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0214] As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, use may also be made of Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, sold by Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.

[0215] Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C12-C14alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C18alkyl chain, from Akzo.

[0216] The product DW 1206B®from Rohm & Haas containing a C20alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

[0217] Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in an aqueous / alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Rheox. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by Rohm & Haas.

[0218] The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen – Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0219] It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0220] Such polyurethane polyethers are sold notably by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0221] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.

[0222] More preferentially, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymers.

[0223] Even more preferentially, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from polymers including i) at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the type (C10-C30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid, the copolymers including among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0224] When present in the composition (A), the associative polymer(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0225] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more associative polymers chosen from anionic associative polymers, preferably from acrylic acid copolymers or methacrylic acid copolymers, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight and most preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Non-associative polysaccharides

[0226] The composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-associative polysaccharides, which thus differ from the associative polymers above.

[0227] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides.

[0228] In the present invention, “polysaccharide” is understood to mean a polymer constituted of sugar units. “Sugar unit” is understood to mean an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms. The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0229] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0230] Non-associative polysaccharides that may notably be mentioned include the following polymers, alone or as a mixture:

[0231] a) tree or shrub exudates, including:- acacia gum (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

[0232] b) gums derived from algae, including:- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate);

[0233] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0234] d) microbial gums, including:- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

[0235] e) polymers extracted from plants, including:- celluloses (glucose polymers);- starches (glucose polymers) and- inulin.

[0236] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of a heat treatment. As chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may notably be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0237] In particular, the guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses may be modified / treated.

[0238] The guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6(poly)hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the C1-C6(poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, examples that may be mentioned include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0239] Such guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by Rhodia Chimie.

[0240] The botanical origin of the starches that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, oat starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch and tapioca starch. Use may also be made of the hydrolyzates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0241] Use will preferentially be made of starch phosphates, notably distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

[0242] According to the invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably, they are bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic type. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0243] The non-associative polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be cellulose-based polymers.

[0244] According to the invention, “cellulose-based” polymer is understood to mean any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

[0245] Cellulose-based polymers are also known as celluloses.

[0246] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0247] Among these cellulose-based polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0248] Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0249] Among the cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0250] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. Examples that may be mentioned include carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.

[0251] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and notably described in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by National Starch.

[0252] Preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from celluloses, guar gums, gellan gums, starches, and mixtures thereof, preferably from celluloses, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0253] More preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers, and mixtures thereof, preferably from gellan gums and cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0254] Even more preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from gellan gums, (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alky celluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl-(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably from gellan gums and hydroxyethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

[0255] When present in the composition (A), the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0256] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides chosen from gellan gums and cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight and most preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0257] More preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides chosen from gellan gums and cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight and most preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Surfactants

[0258] The composition (A) according to the present invention may also comprise one or more surfactants other than the compounds D.

[0259] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more surfactants other than the compounds D.

[0260] These surfactants may preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0261] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: -CO2H, -CO2-, -SO3H, -SO3-, -OSO3H, -OSO3-, -H2PO3, -HPO3-, -PO32-, -H2PO2, -HPO2-, -PO22-, -POH and -PO-.

[0262] As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition (A) according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(C1-C4)alkyl-N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise mentioned) generally including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.

[0263] The salts of C6-C24alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0264] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0265] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may notably be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0266] Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[0267] The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants without a sulfate function.

[0268] As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.

[0269] Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for instance lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.

[0270] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of sulfated surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferentially alkyl sulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.

[0271] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition (A) according to the invention are preferably nonsilicone surfactants and can particularly be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0272] Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0273] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (III) and (IV) below:

[0274] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X-(III)formula (III) wherein:- Rarepresents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH which is preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil; preferably, Rarepresents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;- Rbrepresents a β-hydroxyethyl group;- Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;- M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and- X-represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X-are absent;

[0275] Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B’) (IV)formula (IV) wherein:- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;- B’ represents the group -(CH2)zY’, with z = 1 or 2;- X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;- Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’;- Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra’ represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil; preferably, Ra’ is an alkyl group, in particular a C17group, and its iso form, an unsaturated C17group.

[0276] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5thedition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0277] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol®C2M Concentrate.

[0278] Use may also be made of compounds of formula (V):Ra’’-NHCH(Y’’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (V)formula (V) wherein:- Y’’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’’;- Rdand Re, independently of each other, represent a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;- Z’’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra’’ represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’’-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil; and- n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0279] Among the compounds of formula (V), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

[0280] These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.

[0281] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is advantageously made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, such as cocoyl betaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.

[0282] Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0283] The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition (A) of the present invention are notably described, for example, in the “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.

[0284] As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:- oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8to C40alcohols, preferably comprising one or two fatty chains;- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8to C30fatty acid amides;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30fatty acids and of polyethylene glycols;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30fatty acids and of glycerol;- fatty acid esters of sucrose;- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30fatty acids and of sorbitol;- C8-C30fatty acid esters of sorbitan;- polyoxyethylenated C8-C30fatty acid esters of sorbitan;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30fatty acids and of glycerol;- (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (C8-C30)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;- condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide;-N-(C8-C30)alkylglucamine andN-(C8-C30)acylmethylglucamine derivatives;- amine oxides.

[0285] They are notably chosen from alcohols, α-diols and (C1-C20)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range notably from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups to range notably from 1 to 30.

[0286] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-C24alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0287] The C8-C30, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid esters (notably mono-, di- and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from:sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate.

[0288] The C8-C30fatty acid esters (notably mono-, di- and triesters) of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably chosen from C8-C30fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0289] Preferentially, the C8-C30fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from C12-C18fatty acid esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan, in particular from oxyethylenated esters of lauric acid, of myristic acid, of cetylic acid and of stearic acid and of sorbitan.

[0290] Preferably, the C8-C30fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from oxyethylenated (4 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-21), oxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-20), oxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate (Polysorbate-40), oxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monostearate (Polysorbate-60), oxyethylenated (4 EO) sorbitan monostearate (Polysorbate-61), oxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monooleate (Polysorbate-80), oxyethylenated (5 EO) sorbitan monooleate (Polysorbate-81), oxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan tristearate (Polysorbate-65), oxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate-85).

[0291] The nonionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30fatty acids and of glycerol, C8-C30fatty acid esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from ethoxylated C8-C24fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30fatty acids and of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0292] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30fatty acids and of glycerol.

[0293] The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition (A) according to the invention are generally chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0294] The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain. Among the fatty amines that may be used according to the invention, mention may for example be made of stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.

[0295] As examples of quaternary ammonium salts, mention may particularly be made of:

[0296] - those corresponding to general formula(VI)below: (VI)wherein the groups R8to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8to R11comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

[0297] The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30hydroxyalkyl groups;X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates and (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0298] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI), preference is given, firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides wherein the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or, secondly, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or also, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk.

[0299] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (VII) below: (VII)whereinR12represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,R13represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4alkyl group,R15represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4alkyl group, andX-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0300] Preferably,R12andR13denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group andR15denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by Rewo;

[0301] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (VIII) below: (VIII)whereinR16denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms; R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a,R18,R19,R20andR21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0302] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by Finetex (Quaternium 75);

[0303] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, for instance those of formula (IX) below: (IX)wherein: R22 is chosen from C1-C6alkyl groups and C1-C6hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the group –C(O)R26, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22hydrocarbon-based groups R27, or a hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the group –C(O)R28, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6hydrocarbon-based groups R29, or a hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X-is an organic or inorganic simple or complex anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29.

[0304] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

[0305] Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0306] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[0307] When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0308] When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0309] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0310] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0311] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0312] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0313] The anion X-is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (C1-C4)alkylsulfonate or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.

[0314] The anion X-is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

[0315] Use is made more particularly, in the composition (A) according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) wherein: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group –C(O)R26, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22hydrocarbon-based groups, or a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group –C(O)R28, or a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0316] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

[0317] Among the compounds of formula (XIII), mention may for example be made of the salts, particularly the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0318] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0319] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.

[0320] The composition (A) according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

[0321] Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

[0322] Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

[0323] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0324] Among the cationic surfactants, preference is more particularly given to choosing cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0325] Preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from anionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0326] More preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates and esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8to C30fatty acids and of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0327] Even more preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, and esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8to C30fatty acid esters and of glycerol, such as glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0328] When the composition (A) comprises one or more surfactants, the total content of surfactants included in the composition (A) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and most preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0329] When the composition (A) comprises one or more nonionic and / or anionic surfactants, the total content of nonionic and / or anionic surfactants in the composition (A) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and most preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Sequestrants

[0330] The composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise one or more sequestrants (or chelating agents).

[0331] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more sequestrants.

[0332] The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to a person skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated with a metal ion, that is to say that it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring which includes the metal ion).

[0333] A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

[0334] In the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.

[0335] The salts are notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

[0336] By way of example of sequestrant based on carboxylic acids, mention may be made of the following compounds: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N’-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N’-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N’-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N’-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N’-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N’-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N’-diacetic acid, and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

[0337] By way of example of chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.

[0338] By way of example of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

[0339] According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) of use according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, that is to say sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

[0340] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition (A) according to the invention are preferably chosen from:- inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;- organic phosphorus-based derivatives, for instance organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.

[0341] Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.

[0342] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

[0343] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

[0344] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0345] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0346] According to the present invention, the sequestrants are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0347] According to the present invention, the sequestrants are more preferentially chosen from diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0348] According to the present invention, the sequestrants are even more preferentially chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0349] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.

[0350] When the composition (A) comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Additional basifying agents

[0351] The composition (A) may also comprise one or more additional basifying agents other than the (bi)carbonates and silicates as defined previously.

[0352] The additional basifying agent(s) may be mineral or organic. They may be chosen from i) aqueous ammonia, ii) alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and derivatives thereof, iii) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, iv) mineral or organic hydroxides, v) amino acids, preferably basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine, and vi) the compounds of formula (II) below: wherein:- W is a divalent (C1-C8)alkylene group, preferably propylene optionally substituted notably with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4alkyl radical;- Ra, Rb, Rcand Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4alkyl or C1-C4(poly)hydroxyalkyl radical;vii) and mixtures thereof.

[0353] The mineral or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from i) alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, ii) alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, iii) transition metal hydroxides, such as hydroxides of metals from groups III, IV, V and VI, iv) hydroxides of lanthanides or of actinides.

[0354] When present in the composition (A), the additional basifying agent(s) preferably represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.005% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0355] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) according to the invention does not comprise any additional basifying agent chosen from aqueous ammonia and / or alkanolamines.Persulfates

[0356] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises a total content of persulfates of less than 1% by weight, preferably of less than 0.1% by weight, more preferentially of less than 0.01% by weight, even more preferentially of less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0357] More preferably, the composition (A) is free of persulfates.Direct dyes

[0358] The composition (A) may also comprise one or more direct dyes. The direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.

[0359] The synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, xanthene, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0360] Mention may be made, among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 1,4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 1-amino-3-methyl-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene, 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1,2-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1-methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene, 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-β-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-6-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

[0361] Mention may be made, among the azo direct dyes, of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0362] Mention may be made, among the hydrazono direct dyes, of: Basic Yellow 87.

[0363] Mention may be made, among the nitroaryl direct dyes, of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol,N,N’-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitrophenylenediamine.

[0364] Mention may be made, among the triarylmethane direct dyes, of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50; Tetrabromophenol Blue.

[0365] Mention may be made, among the xanthene dyes, of: Acid Red 92; Acid Red 52.

[0366] Mention may be made, among the quinone direct dyes, of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-β-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, 1,4-bis(β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0367] Mention may be made, among the azine direct dyes, of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0368] Mention may be made, among the indoamine direct dyes, of: 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis(β-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4'-N-(ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine.

[0369] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leucoindigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamin, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechualdehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.

[0370] Mention may be made, among the ortho-diphenols which are of use according to the invention, of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin C1, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and the natural extracts containing them.

[0371] The direct dye(s) can be present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Organic solvents

[0372] The composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

[0373] By way of organic solvent, mention may for example be made of linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0374] When the composition (A) comprises one or more organic solvents, the total content of the organic solvent(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0375] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention is anhydrous. The term “anhydrous composition” refers to a composition which comprises less than 2% by weight of water, better still less than 1% by weight of water, even better still less than 0.75% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0376] In particular, the composition (A) does not comprise any water added during its preparation, it being possible for the water which may be present to be provided by the starting materials used for its preparation.Carboxylic acids

[0377] The composition (A) may also comprise one or more carboxylic acids of the following formula (I) or one or more salts thereof: wherein:-U represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, monovalent – when n has the value 0 – or polyvalent – when n is greater than or equal to 1 – hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably, U represents a monovalent (C1-C6)alkyl group or a polyvalent (C1-C6)alkylene group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and / or amino groups;- n represents an integer of between 0 and 10 inclusive; preferably, n is of between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2.

[0378] The carboxylic acids of formula (I) of use according to the invention are preferably chosen from α-hydroxy acids.

[0379] The carboxylic acids of formula (I) are preferably chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from citric acid or a salt thereof.

[0380] The salts of the carboxylic acids of formula (I) can be salts of organic or inorganic bases or of basifying agents as defined above.

[0381] When present in the composition (A), the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are preferably present in the composition (A) in a total content by weight ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Amino acids

[0382] The composition (A) may also comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I1) and / or one or more salts thereof: formula (I1) wherein:▪ p is an integer equal to 1 or 2;▪ when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated 5- to 8-membered, preferably 5-membered, heterocycle, this ring possibly being optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4)alkyl;▪ when p = 2, R represents:- a hydrogen atom; or- a (C1-C12)alkyl group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group, interrupted with at least one heteroatom or group chosen from –S–, –NH– or –C(NH)– and / or substituted with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino or –NH–C(NH)–NH2.

[0383] The amino acids of formula (I1) can be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0384] Mention may be made, as examples according to the present invention of amino acids of formula (I1) in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0385] Preferably, the amino acid(s) of formula (I1) included in the composition (A) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0386] More preferentially, the amino acid(s) of formula (I1) included in the composition (A) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine and serine, and mixtures thereof.

[0387] Even more preferentially, the amino acid included in the composition (A) is glycine.

[0388] When present in the composition (A), the amino acid(s) of formula (I1) are preferably present in the composition (A) in a total content by weight ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Additives

[0389] The composition (A) according to the invention can optionally also comprise one or more additives, other than the compounds of the invention, and among which mention may be made of polymers, other than the associative polymers and non-associative polysaccharides, mineral thickening agents, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, agents for combating hair loss and / or for promoting hair growth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, fragrances or preservatives.

[0390] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compound(s) so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition (A) according to the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisioned addition(s).

[0391] The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, ranging from 0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0392] Preferably, the composition (A) does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof.Composition (B)

[0393] The composition (B) of the agent comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0394] The hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts may be chosen from urea peroxide, polymeric complexes that can release hydrogen peroxide, oxidases, and mixtures thereof.

[0395] As examples of polymeric complexes that can release hydrogen peroxide, mention may be made of polyvinylpyrrolidone / H2O2in particular in powder form, and the other polymeric complexes described in US 5 008 093, US 3 376 110 and US 5 183 901.

[0396] Oxidases can produce hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate, for instance glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase.

[0397] Preferably, the composition (B) according to the invention comprises hydrogen peroxide as chemical oxidizing agent.

[0398] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) are preferably present in the composition (B) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0399] When the composition (B) comprises hydrogen peroxide, the hydrogen peroxide is preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0400] The composition (B) is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.

[0401] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed previously; these solvents more particularly representing, when they are present, from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0402] The composition (B) also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0403] The composition (B) preferably comprises one or more fatty substances such as those described previously, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0404] The composition (B) may also comprise surfactants and thickening polymers.

[0405] The pH of the composition (B), if it is aqueous, is usually less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5 and preferentially between 1.5 and 4.5.Composition (C)

[0406] The composition (C) of the agent comprises one or more direct dyes. The direct dyes may be chosen from those listed above.

[0407] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises the direct dye(s) in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0408] The composition (C) is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.

[0409] The composition (C) may also comprise one or more additives which may be chosen from those listed above.Ready-to-use composition

[0410] According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition resulting from mixing the composition (A) as defined above with the composition (B) as defined above and optionally with the composition (C) as defined above, it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0411] It is a ready-to-use composition that can be applied to keratin fibers.

[0412] Thus, when the agent is in two parts and comprises a composition (A) as defined above and a composition (B) as defined above, the ready-to-use composition results from mixing the composition (A) as defined above with the composition (B) as defined above, the composition (A) comprising one or more direct dyes.

[0413] When the agent is in three parts and comprises a composition (A) as defined above, a composition (B) as defined above and a composition (C) as defined above, the ready-to-use composition results from mixing the composition (A) as defined above with the composition (B) as defined above and with the composition (C) as defined above, the direct dye(s) being included in the composition (A) and / or in the composition (C). Preferably, according to the latter embodiment, the direct dye(s) are included in the composition (C), and the composition (A) does not comprise direct dyes.

[0414] The pH of the ready-to-use composition (A’) preferably ranges from 8 to 13, more preferentially from 9 to 12.

[0415] Process for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers

[0416] According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is a process for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers comprising:

[0417] i) a step of mixing the composition (A) as defined above with a composition (B) as defined above and optionally with a composition (C) as defined above; and

[0418] ii) a step of applying, to the keratin fibers, a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i);

[0419] it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0420] The composition resulting from the mixing obtained in step i) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. After the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry. The mixing step i) is preferably carried out at the time of use, i.e. just before the composition resulting from the mixing is applied to the keratin fibers.

[0421] When the agent is in two parts, the process for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers comprises:i) a step of mixing the composition (A) as defined above with a composition (B) as defined above; andii) a step of applying, to the keratin fibers, a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i);it being understood that the composition (A) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0422] Preferably, according to the latter embodiment, the compositions (A) and (B) are mixed in an A / B weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 1.5, more preferentially ranging from 0.5 to 1.

[0423] When the agent is in three parts, the process for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers comprises:i) a step of mixing the composition (A) as defined above with a composition (B) as defined above and with a composition (C) as defined above; andii) a step of applying, to the keratin fibers, a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i);it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes. Preferably, according to the latter embodiment, the composition (C) comprises one or more direct dyes and the composition (A) does not comprise direct dyes.Kit

[0424] According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present invention is a device comprising at least two or three compartments, for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers, comprising:i) at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined above;ii) at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined above; andiii) optionally at least a third compartment containing a composition as (C) as defined above;it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0425] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.

[0426] The device mentioned above may also be equipped with a means for dispensing the desired mixture onto the hair, for instance the devices described in patent FR 2586913.Use

[0427] According to a fifth aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of an agent as defined above for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers.Composition (A)

[0428] According to a sixth aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition (A) as defined above, the composition (A) comprising one or more direct dyes.Examples

[0429] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention, but without being limiting in nature.

[0430] In the examples which follow, unless otherwise indicated, all the amounts are shown as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0431] The compositions A1 and A2 below were prepared. In the following tables, the ingredients are indicated as INCI names:

[0432] INGREDIENTSA1(Comparative)A2(Invention)Sodium silicate3939Basic Red 511.731.73Glyceryl stearate11Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate(47.5% by weight aqueous solution sold by Nouryon under the reference Dissolvine GL-47-S)1(0.475 AM)1(0.475 AM)Hydroxyethyl cellulose1.41.4Magnesium stearate-3.6Ammonium bicarbonate4949Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate33Inert fillerqs 100qs 100

[0433] AM: Active MaterialApplication protocol

[0434] At the time of use, the compositions A1 and A2 were mixed with the 30 volumes H2O2Blond Studio Oil-developer oxidizing agent from L’Oréal Professionnel (Composition “O”), respectively, in a weight ratio of 1:2.

[0435] The composition A2 according to the invention mixes very rapidly with the oxidizing composition O to give a mixture A2+O in the form of a homogeneous cream.

[0436] The composition A1 is difficult to mix with the oxidizing composition O and results in a lumpy, non-homogeneous powder.

[0437] Each of the mixtures was then applied to natural chestnut-brown locks of hair (tone depth of 4), in a proportion of 5 g of mixture / g of hair.

[0438] The A2+O mixture is easier to apply than the A1+O mixture.After a leave-on time of 50 min on a hotplate at 27°C, the locks are washed with the Garnier Camomille Ultra Doux shampoo, rinsed and then dried in an oven at 60°C.

[0439] Colorimetric measurements were then carried out using a Minolta CM3600D spectrophotometer, illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included, in the CIE Lab system.

[0440] In the Lab system, L* represents the lightness, a* represents the green / red color axis and b* represents

[0441] the blue / yellow color axis. The lower the value of L*, the darker and more powerful the coloring obtained.Results

[0442] L*A1+O(Comparative)28.5A2+O(Invention)25.9

[0443] The A2+O mixture according to the invention leads to a lower L* value than that obtained with the comparative A1+O mixture. The resulting color is more powerful.

Claims

An agent for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers in two or three parts comprising:a) a first composition (A) comprising:- one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates and (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and mixtures thereof;- one or more silicates;- one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof;- less than 5% by weight of persulfates; and- optionally one or more direct dyes;b) a second composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof, the chemical oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide; andc) optionally a third composition (C) comprising one or more direct dyes;it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.The agent as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the compound(s) C are chosen from bicarbonates and bicarbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from bicarbonates.The agent as claimed in either one of the preceding claims, wherein the bicarbonates are chosen from:- alkali metal bicarbonates;- alkaline-earth metal bicarbonates;- the compounds of formula N+R1R2R3R4HCO3-wherein R1, R2, R3and R4represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;- aminoguanidine bicarbonate;- mixtures thereof;preferably from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof; most preferentially, the bicarbonate is ammonium bicarbonate.The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) (C) are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sodium silicates, even more preferentially from the compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate and / or Sodium Metasilicate.The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicate(s) are present in the composition (A) in a total content of at least 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 30% to 50% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acids are chosen from compounds having the structure R-C(O)OH wherein R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 5 to 39 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 9 to 29 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 11 to 23 carbon atoms and most preferentially from 13 to 21 carbon atoms.The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) D are chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, most preferentially from stearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, and better still from stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof, and even better still from sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof.The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) D are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (A) also comprises one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D, the fatty substance(s) other than the compounds D being chosen preferably from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid fatty substances, even more preferentially from C6to C16liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol, other than triglycerides, liquid fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol, other than triglycerides, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers such as dicapryl ether, and mixtures thereof, and better still from liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol, other than triglycerides, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate.The agent as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the fatty substance(s) other than the compounds D are present in the composition (A) in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (A) also comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides, preferably chosen from the following polymers, alone or as a mixture, it being possible for these polymers to be physically or chemically modified:a) tree or shrub exudates, including:- acacia gum (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);b) gums derived from algae, including:- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate);c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);d) microbial gums, including:- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);e) polymers extracted from plants, including:- celluloses (glucose polymers);- starches (glucose polymers) and- inulin;more preferentially from celluloses, guar gums, gellan gums, starches, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from celluloses, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof, most preferentially from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, cellulose ether esters, and mixtures thereof, and better still from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof, and even better still from gellan gums, (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably from gellan gums, hydroxyethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.The agent as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants other than the compounds D, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D being chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethoxylated C8-C24fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8to C30fatty acids and of glycerol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8to C30fatty acids and of glycerol, such as glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.The agent as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (A) comprises a total content of persulfates of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A), and better still the composition (A) is free of persulfates.The agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (A) does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof.The composition resulting from mixing the composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 with the composition (B) as defined in claim 1 and optionally with the composition (C) as defined in claim 1, it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.A process for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers comprising:i) a step of mixing the composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 with a composition (B) as defined in claim 1 and optionally with a composition (C) as defined in claim 1; andii) a step of applying, to the keratin fibers, a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i);it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.A device comprising at least two or three compartments, for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers, comprising:i) at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17;ii) at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined in claim 1; andiii) optionally at least a third compartment containing a composition (C) as defined in claim 1;it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.The use of an agent as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17, for the simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers.The composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17, the composition (A) comprising one or more direct dyes.

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