ACRYLATE-FREE COSMETIC EMULSION

DE502019013469D1Active Publication Date: 2025-07-10BEIERSDORF AG
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Patent Information

Application Number
DE502019013469
Authority / Receiving Office
DE · DE
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2018-08-28
Filing Date
2019-07-03
Publication Date
2025-07-10
Estimated Expiration
2039-07-03

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing acrylate-based polymers used in oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions for cosmetics are criticized for their unclear biodegradability, leading to stability issues and residue problems when polysaccharide-based polymers are used as alternatives.

Method used

An acrylate-free cosmetic O/W emulsion is formulated using a combination of alkali metal alkyl sulfates or alkali metal alkyl phosphates, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and glycerol monostearate or sorbitan monostearate to prevent phase separation and enhance absorption.

Benefits of technology

The solution provides a stable, rapidly absorbed, and low-residue O/W emulsion, even with a high oil phase proportion, addressing the limitations of both acrylate-based and polysaccharide-based polymers.

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Description

[0001] Cosmetic products generally serve not only to make people look beautiful and attractive, but also contribute significantly to increased self-esteem and well-being. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleansing and care of human skin.

[0002] Skin care products typically consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to be heterogeneous systems consisting of two immiscible or only slightly miscible liquids, commonly referred to as phases, in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other in the form of tiny droplets. Externally and to the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

[0003] If the two liquids are water and oil, and oil droplets are finely dispersed in the water, the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g., milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is determined by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g., butter) operates in the opposite direction, with the basic character being determined by the oil.

[0004] To stabilize and thicken O / W emulsions, acrylate-based polymers are usually incorporated into these formulations. Acrylate-based polymers include polymers obtained from homo- or copolymerization with acrylic and / or methacrylic acid. Examples include carbomer and acrylate copolymer.

[0005] The state of the art includes documents DE 10148825 A1, DE 19938756 A1, and DE 29924371 U1, which disclose skin-care O / W emulsions with acrylate-based polymers. However, the use of these acrylate-based polymers is increasingly being criticized because their biodegradability is not fully understood.

[0006] In contrast to acrylate-based polymers, polymers based on polysaccharides are obtained from renewable raw materials, so they can be biodegraded without problems and are often inexpensive.

[0007] However, it is problematic that simply replacing acrylate-based polymers with polysaccharide-based polymers is often not possible, as these two-phase formulations generally lack the necessary long-term stability, resulting in undesirable phase separation of the O / W emulsion. This occurs particularly when the oil phase of the emulsion accounts for more than 3% by weight, preferably more than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Another problem is that when polysaccharide-based polymers are used, the formulations are not absorbed quickly enough when applied to the skin, often leaving behind significant amounts of white residue. Consumers therefore often describe such formulations as unpleasant. Instead, consumers prefer formulations that are absorbed quickly and without residue, thus having a light texture.Thus, a simple replacement of acrylate-based polymers with polysaccharide-based polymers leads to significant product disadvantages.

[0008] The prior art also includes products with Mintel GNPD registration numbers 5178271 (Rejuvenating Face Wash), 1625513 (After Sun Repair Lotion), and 2016848 (Cleanser- Anti Aging Collagen Plus). None of these products could provide any indication of the invention.

[0009] Furthermore, document CN 105434307 B relates to an anti-acne product and manufacturing methods thereof. No reference to the present invention is made.

[0010] The object of the present invention was therefore to provide an acrylate-free cosmetic O / W emulsion that does not have the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, it was an object to provide an O / W emulsion with polysaccharide-based polymers that are more temperature-stable. Furthermore, it was an object to provide O / W emulsions that are rapidly absorbed upon application and have lower residue levels.

[0011] Surprisingly, the tasks are solved by an acrylate-free cosmetic O / W emulsion containing a) at least one substance selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl sulfates and alkali metal alkyl phosphates, wherein the alkyl group has 16 to 18 carbon atoms, b) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate.

[0012] The invention also relates to the use of a mixture of a) at least one substance selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl sulfates and alkali metal alkyl phosphates, wherein the alkyl group has 16 to 18 carbon atoms, b) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate to prevent phase separation in an acrylate-free O / W emulsion.

[0013] If weight percentages (wt%) are stated below without reference to a specific composition or specific mixture, these figures always refer to the total weight of the cosmetic O / W emulsion. If ratios of components / substances / groups of substances are disclosed below, these ratios refer to weight ratios of the stated components / substances / groups of substances.

[0014] If weight percentage ranges for the components of the cosmetic O / W emulsion are given below, the disclosure of the present application also includes all individual values ​​in steps of 0.1 wt.% within these weight percentage ranges.

[0015] The phrases "according to the invention", "advantageous according to the invention", "advantageous within the meaning of the present invention" etc. always refer in the context of the present disclosure to both the preparation according to the invention and the use according to the invention.

[0016] Unless otherwise stated, all tests were conducted under standard conditions. The term "standard conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa, and a relative humidity of 50%.

[0017] When the term skin is used, it preferably refers to human skin.

[0018] The O / W emulsion according to the invention is acrylate-free. For the purposes of the present invention, acrylate-free means that the total proportion of acrylate-based polymers is less than 0.2 wt. %, preferably less than 0.1 wt. %, more preferably less than 0.05 wt. %, and particularly preferably 0 wt. %, with the figures referring to the total weight of the emulsion. According to the invention, acrylate-based polymers are understood to mean all polymers obtained from homo- or copolymerization with acrylic and / or methacrylic acid.

[0019] According to the invention, the cosmetic O / W emulsion comprises a substance selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl sulfates and alkali metal alkyl phosphates, wherein the alkyl group has 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0020] Among the alkali metal alkyl sulfates, sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate and their mixture known under the name sodium cetearyl sulfate are preferred.

[0021] Furthermore, potassium cetyl phosphate is preferred among the alkali metal alkyl phosphates.

[0022] A preferred subject of the invention is thus an acrylate-free cosmetic O / W emulsion containing a) at least one substance selected from the group consisting of sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate, sodium cetearyl sulfate and potassium cetyl phosphate, b) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate.

[0023] The substances of the group of alkali metal alkyl sulfates, alkali metal alkyl phosphates and sodium stearoyl glutamate can be used according to the invention as a mixture or as individual components.

[0024] A further preferred subject of the invention is an acrylate-free cosmetic O / W emulsion containing a) sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate and / or sodium cetearyl sulfate, b) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate.

[0025] A further preferred subject of the invention is an acrylate-free cosmetic O / W emulsion containing a) at least one substance selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl phosphates, characterized in that the alkyl group has in each case 16 to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the substance is particularly preferably potassium cetyl phosphate, b) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate.

[0026] It is furthermore advantageous according to the invention if the substances mentioned above under a) are contained in a total proportion of 0.01 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably of 0.05 wt.% to 2.0 wt.% and most preferably of 0.1 wt.% to 1.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0027] Furthermore, it is advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the proportion of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0028] Generally, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is an esterification product based on starch. According to the invention, it is possible to use hydroxypropyl starch phosphate based on various starches. Wheat and potato starch, among others, are known to those skilled in the art.

[0029] Surprisingly, however, it has been found by those skilled in the art that when the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate used is an esterification product based on corn starch, the O / W emulsion according to the invention is significantly less sticky on the skin than when other starch sources are used. Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are thus characterized in that the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate used is an esterification product based on corn starch. Within these embodiments, it is further preferred if the proportion of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, which is an esterification product based on corn starch, is from 0.1 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0030] A hydroxypropyl starch phosphate based on corn starch according to the invention is available from Cargill under the trade name C*HiForm A 12747.

[0031] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the total proportion of glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate is from 0.1% by weight to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 3.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.5% by weight to 2.5% by weight, the information relating to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0032] Further advantageous O / W emulsions according to the invention contain glycerol monostearate in a proportion of 0.1 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.5 wt.% to 2.5 wt.%, wherein the information relates to the total weight of the emulsion and wherein advantageously no sorbitan monostearate is contained.

[0033] Further advantageous O / W emulsions according to the invention contain sorbitan monostearate in a proportion of 0.1 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.5 wt.% to 2.5 wt.%, wherein the information relates to the total weight of the emulsion and wherein advantageously no glycerol monostearate is contained.

[0034] Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that, in particular, emulsions characterized in that the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is from more than 3 wt.% to 30 wt.%, preferably from more than 4 wt.% to 28 wt.%, and particularly preferably from more than 5 wt.% to 25 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion, can be stabilized with the combination according to the invention. Thus, surprisingly, emulsions with a large oil phase proportion can be stabilized.

[0035] According to the invention, emulsifiers and surfactants are not considered part of the oil phase. This means that, among others, glycerol monostearate, sodium alkyl sulfates, potassium cetyl phosphate, glycerol monostearate, and sorbitan monostearate are not considered part of the oil phase.

[0036] Emulsifiers are all substances listed as "emulsifying agents" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants are all substances listed as "surfactants" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).

[0037] A preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the O / W emulsion, based on the total weight of the emulsion, a) 0.1 wt.% to 1.0 wt.% of at least one substance selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl sulfates and alkali metal alkyl phosphates, wherein the alkyl group has in each case 16 to 18 carbon atoms, b) 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) 0.5 wt.% to 2.5 wt.% glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate, and the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is from more than 5 wt.% to 25 wt.%.

[0038] A further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the O / W emulsion, based on the total weight of the emulsion, a) 0.1 wt.% to 1.0 wt.% of at least one substance selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl sulfates and alkali metal alkyl phosphates, wherein the alkyl group has 16 to 18 carbon atoms, b) 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) 0.5 wt.% to 2.5 wt.% glycerol monostearate, and the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is more than 5 wt% to 25 wt%.

[0039] A preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the O / W emulsion, based on the total weight of the emulsion, a) 0.1 wt.% to 1.0 wt.% of at least one substance selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl sulfates and alkali metal alkyl phosphates, wherein the alkyl group has 16 to 18 carbon atoms, b) 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) 0.5 wt.% to 2.5 wt.% sorbitan monostearate, and the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is more than 5 wt% to 25 wt%.

[0040] A preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the O / W emulsion, based on the total weight of the emulsion, a) 0.1 wt% to 1.0 wt% sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate and / or sodium cetearyl sulfate, b) 0.5 wt% to 3.0 wt% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) 0.5 wt% to 2.5 wt% glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate, and the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is from more than 5 wt% to 25 wt%.

[0041] A further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the O / W emulsion, based on the total weight of the emulsion, a) 0.1% to 1.0% by weight of sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate and / or sodium cetearyl sulfate, b) 0.5% to 3.0% by weight of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of glycerol monostearate, and the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is more than 5 wt% to 25 wt%.

[0042] A preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the O / W emulsion, based on the total weight of the emulsion, a) 0.1% to 1.0% by weight of sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate and / or sodium cetearyl sulfate, b) 0.5% to 3.0% by weight of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of sorbitan monostearate, and the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is more than 5 wt% to 25 wt%.

[0043] A preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the O / W emulsion, based on the total weight of the emulsion, a) 0.1 wt.% to 1.0 wt.% of at least one substance selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl phosphates, characterized in that the alkyl group has in each case 16 to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the substance is particularly preferably potassium cetyl phosphate, b) 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) 0.5 wt.% to 2.5 wt.% glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate, and the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is from more than 5 wt.% to 25 wt.%.

[0044] A further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the O / W emulsion, based on the total weight of the emulsion, a) 0.1 wt.% to 1.0 wt.% of at least one substance selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl phosphates, characterized in that the alkyl group has in each case 16 to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the substance is particularly preferably potassium cetyl phosphate, b) 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) 0.5 wt.% to 2.5 wt.% glycerol monostearate, and the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is from more than 5 wt.% to 25 wt.%.

[0045] A preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the O / W emulsion, based on the total weight of the emulsion, a) 0.1 wt.% to 1.0 wt.% of at least one substance selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl phosphates, characterized in that the alkyl group has 16 to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the substance is particularly preferably potassium cetyl phosphate, b) 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) 0.5 wt.% to 2.5 wt.% sorbitan monostearate, and the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is more than 5 wt% to 25 wt%.

[0046] It has also been surprisingly found that the temperature stability of the O / W emulsion according to the invention could be further increased by adding one or more fatty alcohols having 14 to 22 carbon atoms to the emulsion. The total proportion of these fatty alcohols having 14 to 22 carbon atoms is advantageously from 0.1 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 wt.% to 4.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0047] Fatty alcohols to be selected with particular preference are cetyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol, these being preferably used in proportions of 0.1% by weight to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.2% by weight to 4.0% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5% by weight to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0048] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the O / W emulsion contains further polysaccharide-containing polymers.

[0049] Advantageously, the O / W emulsion of these embodiments contains tapioca starch, wherein the proportion of tapioca starch is preferably in the range of 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.%, wherein the weight data refer to the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0050] Furthermore, the O / W emulsion of these embodiments advantageously contains one or more additional starch phosphates, with the total proportion of these additional starch phosphates preferably being in the range of 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.%, with the weight data referring to the total weight of the O / W emulsion. The term "additional starch phosphates" refers to starch phosphates that are different from hydroxypropyl starch.

[0051] Furthermore, the O / W emulsion of these embodiments advantageously contains xanthan and / or a modified xanthan, the total proportion of these polymers being in the range from 0.05 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, the weight data relating to the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0052] Furthermore, the O / W emulsion of these embodiments advantageously contains carrageenan, wherein the total proportion of carrageenan is in the range from 0.05 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, wherein the weight data refer to the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0053] Other advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that it contains no other starches and starch derivatives besides hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

[0054] Other advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that it does not contain any celluloses or cellulose derivatives.

[0055] Other advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that it does not contain any further polysaccharide-containing polymers.

[0056] The features of the O / W emulsion according to the invention described below relate to the O / W emulsion according to the invention per se, as well as to the advantageous embodiments of the invention described above.

[0057] The O / W emulsion according to the invention advantageously further contains one or more lipid components, such as waxes and oils based on hydrocarbons, saturated, unsaturated or hydrogenated triglycerides, dialkyl ethers having 12 to 24 carbon atoms and / or the esters of monohydric alcohols and monocarboxylic acids which have at least 10 carbon atoms.

[0058] As already stated, it is advantageous if the O / W emulsion of the present invention contains one or more branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, provided they are not gaseous under normal conditions. Hydrocarbons that can be advantageously used are liquid paraffin, isododecane, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, squalane, and microcrystalline wax.

[0059] The O / W emulsion according to the invention advantageously contains one or more triglycerol esters selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural triglycerol esters. Advantageous natural oils containing such natural triglycerol esters are sunflower oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), rapeseed oil (Canola Oil), soybean oil (Glycine Soja Oil), olive oil (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil), almond oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis Oil), avocado oil (Persea Gratissima Oil), walnut oil (Junglans Regia Seed Oil), peach kernel oil (Prunus Persica Kernel Oil), apricot kernel oil (Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil), sesame oil (Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil), camellia oil (Camelia Oleifera / Camelia Sasanqua), evening primrose oil (Oenothera biennis), macadamia nut oil (Macadamia Intergrifolia Seed Oil), safflower oil (Silybum Marianum Seed Oil), wheat germ oil (Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil), palm kernel oil (Elaeis guineensis Kernel Oil), palm oil (Elaeis guineensis Oil), Grape seed oil (Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil), Argan oil (Argania spinosa Seed Oil),Peanut Oil (Arachis hypogaea Oil), Pumpkin Seed Oil (Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil), Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), Rice Germ Oil (Oryza Sativa Bran Oil), Vegetable Oil (Olus Oil) and Coconut Oil.

[0060] If the O / W emulsion contains one or more of the above-mentioned natural oils, the proportion of these natural oils is preferably from 0.01 wt.% to 3.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0061] Other preferred triglycerol esters include, among others, hydrogenated triglyceride fats, such as hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, or hydrogenated castor oil. The use of hydrogenated coconut oil (hydrogenated coco-glycerides) is particularly preferred, with the proportion of hydrogenated coconut oil preferably being between 0.5% and 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0062] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the emulsion contains caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, wherein the proportion of caprylic-capric acid triglyceride is preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0063] Furthermore, it is advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the O / W emulsion of the present invention contains one or more dialkyl ethers having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably dicaprylyl ether. If the O / W emulsion contains dicaprylyl ether, the proportion of dicaprylyl ether is preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0064] Furthermore, it is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the O / W emulsion of the present invention contains one or more esters of monohydric alcohols and monocarboxylic acids, wherein the esters have at least 10, preferably at least 15, carbon atoms. Advantageously selected esters of monohydric alcohols and monocarboxylic acids are 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, and isopropyl palmitate.

[0065] It is further advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the O / W emulsion contains octyldodecanol.

[0066] Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the O / W emulsion does not contain silicone oils. Silicone oils often have the effect of making emulsions feel particularly light and absorb quickly. Surprisingly, it has been shown that the emulsion according to the invention is absorbed particularly quickly after application to the skin, even without the presence of silicone oils.

[0067] It is furthermore advantageous according to the invention if the O / W emulsion contains propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, glyceryl caprylate and / or 1,2-decanediol.

[0068] Furthermore, it is also advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the O / W emulsion contains phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, dehydroacetic acid and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

[0069] If the O / W emulsion contains phenoxyethanol, it is preferred if the proportion of phenoxyethanol is from 0.1 wt.% to 1.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0070] If the O / W emulsion contains methylparaben and / or ethylparaben, it is preferred if the total proportion of methylparaben and / or ethylparaben is from 0.01 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0071] Furthermore, it is advantageous if embodiments of the invention are characterized in that they contain ethanol. If ethanol is present in the O / W emulsion, the proportion of ethanol is preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0072] Furthermore, the O / W emulsion according to the invention is preferably characterized in that it contains glycerol in a proportion of 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0073] Furthermore, it is preferred if the O / W emulsion contains, in addition to the emulsifiers and surfactants according to the invention, further surfactants and / or emulsifiers only in a maximum proportion of 2 wt.%, preferably in a maximum proportion of 1 wt.% and particularly preferably no further emulsifiers and surfactants, the information relating to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0074] Last but not least, advantageous embodiments according to the invention are characterized in that the O / W emulsion contains one or more active ingredients selected from the group of the compounds glycyrrhetinic acid, urea, arctiin, folic acid, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, glyceryl glucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C, vitamin C phosphate, vitamin C palmitate, niacinamide, vitamin A palmitate, panthenol, licochalcone A, rucinol, N-[(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)thiazol-2-yl]isobutyramide, honociol and magnolol (also as a component of magnolia extracts), hyaluronic acid and / or silymarin (milk thistle extract).

[0075] Furthermore, advantageous O / W emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain water in a proportion of 60 wt.% to 95 wt.% and preferably of 70 wt.% to 90 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0076] Furthermore, O / W emulsions advantageous according to the invention have a viscosity of 4000 mPa s to 10000 mPa s. When viscosity is mentioned in this disclosure, all values ​​refer to a measurement at 25°C in a 150 ml crimp-edge glass using a Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. The measuring body used is measuring body no. 1 (article no. 200 0191), speed range 62.5 min -1< . All viscosity measurements are always carried out 24 hours after preparation of the O / W emulsion. Comparative tests and examples

[0077] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions, and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or the total weight of the preparations.

[0078] The following tables list the example formulations Ex. 1 to Ex. 13, whereby only the example formulations Ex. 4 to 7 and 10 to 13 disclose the O / W emulsions according to the invention. The other example formulations are not according to the invention. A comparison of the O / W emulsions according to the invention and those not according to the invention shows that the O / W emulsions according to the invention do not exhibit phase separation and are therefore significantly more stable at elevated temperatures.

[0079] The O / W emulsions are prepared by heating Phase A and Phase C to 75°C until all components have dissolved. The phases are then mixed. The mixture is homogenized and then cooled to room temperature while stirring. Phase B is stirred into 60 mL of water (removed from Phase A) and added to the emulsion after Phase D. The emulsion is then homogenized again. phase Ingredients Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 A Glycerin 5 5 5 5 Aqua Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Sodium cetearylsulfate 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 B Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate' - - 2,5 2,5 Tapioca starch - - - - Distarch phosphate C Cetyl alcohol 2 2 2 2 Hydrogenated coco-glycerides 2 2 2 2 Dicaprylyl ether 3,8 3,8 3,8 3,8 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 4 4 4 4 Glyceryl stearate - 1 - 1 D Phenoxyethanol 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 Trisodium EDTA 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 Methylparabens 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 storage at 40°C for 7 days Phase separation Phase separation Phase separation Stable at 50°C for 7 days Phase separation Phase separation Phase separation Stable Properties when applied to the skin No residue, fast absorption on the skin 1< Commercial product: C*HiForm A 12747 from Cargill phase Ingredients Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 A Glycerin 5 5 5 5 5 Aqua Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Sodium cetearylsulfate 1,5 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 B Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate' 2,5 5,5 2,5 - - Tapioca starch - - - 2,5 - Distarch phosphate - - - - 2,5 C Cetyl alcohol 2 2 2 2 2 Hydrogenated coco-glycerides 2 2 2 2 2 Dicaprylyl ether 3,8 3,8 3,8 3,8 3,8 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 4 4 4 4 4 Glyceryl stearate 1 1 3,5 1 1 D Phenoxyethanol 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 Trisodium EDTA 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 Methylparabens 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 storage at 40°C for 7 days Stable Stable Stable Phase separation Phase separation at 50°C for 7 days Stable Stable Stable Phase separation Phase separation Properties when applied to the skin significant residue, absorbs slowly significant residue, absorbs slowly significant residue, absorbs slowly 1< Commercial product: C*HiForm A 12747 from Cargill

[0080] In the following examples, the substances listed in the table below are used. Substance A Sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate or potassium cetyl phosphate Substance B Glycerol monostearate or sorbitan monostearate

[0081] This means that if an example preparation contains the ingredient Substance A, this example preparation is represented once with sodium stearoyl glutamate, once with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, and once with potassium cetyl phosphate. The same applies to Substance B.

[0082] Formulations containing exclusively sodium stearoyl glutamate as substance A are not part of the invention. phase Ingredients Example 10 Example 11 Example 12 Example 13 A Glycerin 5 5 5 5 Aqua Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Substance A 0,2 1,5 0,2 0,2 B Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate' 2,5 2,5 5,5 2,5 C Cetyl alcohol 2 2 2 2 Hydrogenated coco-glycerides 2 2 2 2 Dicaprylyl ether 3,8 3,8 3,8 3,8 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 4 4 4 4 Substance B 1 1 1 3,5 D Phenoxyethanol 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 Trisodium EDTA 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 Methylparabens 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 1< Commercial product: C*HiForm A 12747 from Cargill Example A (not according to the invention) % by weight O / W cream Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0,3 Glycerol monostearate 3 C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 2 Dicaprylyl ether 2 Octyldodecanol 2 Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 1 Joojoba oil 0,5 Tocopheryl acetate 0,3 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0,1 Phenoxyethanol 0,7 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 3 Octanediol 0,3 Benzethonium chloride 0,05 Pentylene glycol 2 Glycerin 7 Fillers / additives (TiO 2 , BHT) 0,5 perfume qs Water to 100 Example B % by weight O / W day cream Sodium cetylstearyl sulfate 0,2 Sorbitan monostearate 2 Cetearyl alcohol 1 C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 3 Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 2 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 Octyldodecanol 1 Macadamia oil 0,5 Octocrylene 2 Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 3 Octyl salicylate 2 TiO2 1 Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.1 Folic acid 0,05 Phenoxyethanol 0,8 Octopirox 0,1 Hexanediol 1 EDTA 0,2 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 2,5 Glycerin 7 Additives (Xanthan Gum, BHT) 0,3 perfume qs Water to 100 pH 7.0 Example C (not according to the invention) % by weight O / W day cream Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0,3 Sorbitan monostearate 1 Cetearyl alcohol 2 Isopropyl palmitate 3 Ethylhexyl stearate 1 Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 1 C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 2 Dibutyladipate 1 Tocophol 0,1 Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone) 0,05 Lactic acid sodium salt 0,3 Methylpropanediol 2 Phenoxyethanol 0,5 Benzyl alcohol 0,2 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 2 Hyaluronic acid, sodium salt 0,1 NaOH aq qs Glycerin 8 Additives (EDTA, carrageenan) 0,6 perfume qs Water to 100 pH 7.0 Example D % by weight O / W Cream Sodium cetylstearyl sulfate 0,3 Sorbitan monostearate 2 Cetyl alcohol 1 C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 2 Shea butter 0,5 Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 3 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 Dicaprylyl ether 1 Ethylhexyl cocoate 1 Isohexadecan 1 Citric acid sodium salt qs. Phenoxyethanol 0,8 Dipropylene glycol 1 Benzyl alcohol 0,3 Glycyrrhiza inflata extract (Licochalcone A) 0,1 Ethylhexylglycerol 0,4 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 2 EDTA 0,2 Ethanol 1 Glycerin 5 Additives (EDTA, Locust bean gum) 0,6 NaOH aq qs perfume qs Water to 100 pH 5.2 Example E % by weight O / W cream Potassium cetyl phosphate 1 Glyceryl stearates 2 Cetearyl alcohol 1 Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 2 C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 2 Sunflower oil 0,5 Cocosglyceride 2 Octyldodecanol 1 Triisostearin 1 Cetearyl isononanoate 1 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester (paraben) 0,2 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 1,5 Octanediol 0,2 4-Hydroxyacetophenone 0,2 Glycerin 5 Panthenol 1 Additives (Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, BHT) 0,5 perfume qs Water to 100

Claims

1. Acrylate-free cosmetic O / W emulsion comprising a) at least one substance selected from the group comprising alkali metal alkyl sulfates and alkali metal alkyl phosphates, wherein the alkyl group has in each case 16 to 18 carbon atoms, b) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate.

2. Use of a mixture composed of a) at least one substance selected from the group comprising alkali metal alkyl sulfates and alkali metal alkyl phosphates, wherein the alkyl group has in each case 16 to 18 carbon atoms, b) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and c) glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate to prevent phase separation in an acrylate-free O / W emulsion.

3. Emulsion or use according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate and / or sodium cetearyl sulfate are present as substance a).

4. Emulsion or use according to Claim 1 and / or Claim 2, characterized in that substance a) is selected from the group of alkali metal alkyl phosphates, characterized in that the alkyl group has in each case 16 to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the substance is preferably potassium cetyl phosphate.

5. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total proportion of the substances a) is from 0.01% by weight to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

6. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

7. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is an esterification product based on corn starch.

8. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate is from 0.1% by weight to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.2% by weight to 3.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.5% by weight to 2.5% by weight, wherein the figures refer to the total weight of the emulsion.

9. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is from more than 3% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from more than 4% by weight to 28% by weight and particularly preferably from more than 5% by weight to 25%) by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

10. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion comprises one or more fatty alcohols having 14 to 22 carbon atoms and the total proportion of said fatty alcohols is advantageously from 0.1% by weight to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.2% by weight to 4.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

11. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the O / W emulsion comprises waxes and oils based on hydrocarbons; saturated, unsaturated or hardened triglycerides; dialkyl ethers having 12 to 24 carbon atoms and / or esters of monohydric alcohols and monocarboxylic acids having at least 10 carbon atoms.

12. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion does not comprise silicone oils.

13. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that comprises further surfactants and / or emulsifiers only at a maximum proportion of 2% by weight, preferably at a maximum proportion of 1% by weight, and particularly preferably does not comprise any further emulsifiers and surfactants, wherein the figures refer to the total weight of the emulsion.

14. Emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion comprises water in a proportion of 60% by weight to 95% by weight and preferably from 70% by weight to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.