MINERAL OIL-FREE COSMETIC W / O EMULSION

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion) containing triglycerides, wherein the preparation is free from mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax and polyethylene waxes, polyacrylates, cross-linked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymers, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI octylmethoxycinnamate), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), parabens (in particular methyl-, propyl- and butylparaben), methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM ​​hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers or Polyethylene glycol esters, characterized in that the preparation contains diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate in a concentration of 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0002] The desire to look beautiful and attractive is deeply rooted in human nature. Although the ideal of beauty has evolved over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin plays a significant role in achieving a beautiful and attractive appearance.

[0003] In order for the skin to fully fulfill its biological functions, it requires regular cleansing and care. Skin care products, usually creams, ointments, or lotions, are designed to moisturize and replenish the skin's oils. They often contain active ingredients designed to regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent or reduce premature aging (e.g., the formation of fine lines and wrinkles).

[0004] In addition to cleansing and caring for the skin, cosmetics also have an aesthetic function. They are intended to "improve" the user's external appearance according to the respective cultural ideas. Cosmetics thus fulfill a psychological and social function by increasing the (visual) attractiveness of the user.

[0005] Recently, there has been an increasing trend toward "natural" cosmetics, whose ingredients, if possible, are no longer derived from petroleum products or chemically synthesized. The search for alternative ingredients that meet these criteria presents product developers with particular challenges. Replacing familiar ingredients such as mineral oils, silicone oils, and polyacrylates almost always results in disadvantages with regard to the application of the products. The preparations become sensorially unappealing, which is unpleasantly noticeable, for example, when spreading the preparation on the skin and due to a lack of absorption. EP 0 965 331 A discloses water-in-oil emulsions that (a) a total content of water and optionally water-soluble substances of at least 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, and a total content of lipids, emulsifiers, and lipophilic components of not more than 15% by weight. (b) at least one surfactant selected from the group of alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, (c) one or more lipid components comprising the lipid phase of the emulsion, (d) wherein the weight ratio of (b) to (c) is selected from the range 0.10 to 0.25.

[0006] The object of the present invention was therefore to develop a cosmetic emulsion (in particular a water-in-oil emulsion) free of mineral oils, silicone oils, and polyacrylates, which exhibits the same sensory properties as conventional cosmetics containing these ingredients. These preparations should ideally be "vegan," meaning they do not contain any ingredients of animal origin. Furthermore, the aim was to develop a preparation whose ingredients are of plant origin, whereby plant origin also includes substances whose starting material comes from plants and which subsequently undergo one or more derivatization steps (e.g., hydrolysis, esterification).

[0007] Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsions (W / O emulsions) are primarily used as a base for preparations intended to moisturize and replenish the skin's fat content. In addition to its role as a lipid donor, the emulsion base also serves as a carrier for skin moisturizers such as glycerin and panthenol (also called dexpanthenol), which are present in the water phase of the emulsion. To become cosmetically / dermatologically effective, these substances must be released from the water phase through the evaporation of the carrier substance, water. The evaporation rate of the water is therefore generally the rate-determining step for the onset of action of the active ingredients contained in the water phase.

[0008] It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion) in which the active ingredients contained in the water phase (in particular glycerin and panthenol) are released more quickly.

[0009] In particular, the object of the present invention was to increase the evaporation rate of water from the emulsion.

[0010] Surprisingly, these tasks are solved by a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion) containing triglycerides, whereby the preparation is free from mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax and polyethylene waxes, polyacrylates, cross-linked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymers, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI octylmethoxycinnamate), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), parabens (especially methyl-, propyl- and butylparaben), methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM ​​hydantoin, Polyethylene glycol ethers or polyethylene glycol esters, characterized in that the preparation contains diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate in a concentration of 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0011] The solution to the problem was not obvious to the skilled person, especially because he had to assume that the water evaporation and thus the evaporation rate would be more severely hindered by the formation of hydrogen bonds to the oxygen atoms of the triglyceride esters compared to the mineral oils, paraffin waxes, and microcrystalline waxes of conventional water-in-oil emulsions. However, this is not the case.

[0012] It is advantageous according to the invention if the amount of the water phase is 35 to 75% by weight and the amount of the oil phase is 25 to 65% by weight, based on the total amount of the preparation.

[0013] According to the invention, it is preferred if the preparation is free from aliphatic and aromatic hydrocarbons.

[0014] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation additionally contains straight-chain and / or branched fatty alcohols.

[0015] According to the invention, it is preferred if octyldodecanol, cetyl alcohol, and / or stearyl alcohol are used as straight-chain and / or branched fatty alcohols. It is also preferred according to the invention to use these straight-chain and / or branched fatty alcohols in a total concentration of 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0016] Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate can be purchased from Evonik, for example, under the trade name Isolan PDI.

[0017] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the triglyceride content in the emulsion is from 10 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. According to the invention, the concentration range from 20 to 27% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred.

[0018] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains lecithin and / or glycerin. The preferred concentration of lecithin used according to the invention is 0.0005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0019] The preferred use concentration for glycerin according to the invention is 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0020] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains one or more esters selected from the group of the compounds ascorbyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, cetyl palmitate.

[0021] The preferred use concentration for ascobyl palmitate according to the invention is 0.0003 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0022] The preferred use concentration for tocopheryl acetate according to the invention is 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0023] The preferred use concentration for cetyl palmitate according to the invention is 0.005 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0024] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation contains one or more salts selected from the group consisting of magnesium sulfate, sodium anisate, and sodium citrate. Sodium citrate can also be used in the form of its free acid (citric acid), which is preferred according to the invention.

[0025] The preferred use concentration for magnesium sulfate according to the invention is 0.3 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0026] The preferred use concentration for sodium anisate according to the invention is 0.002 to 0.9% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0027] The preferred concentration of citric acid or sodium citrate according to the invention is 0.001 to 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains phenoxyethanol and / or panthenol.

[0028] The preferred use concentration for phenoxyethanol according to the invention is 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0029] The preferred use concentration for panthenol according to the invention is 0.05 to 0.94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0030] According to the invention, the use of a combination of panthenol, in particular D-panthenol and glycerin is particularly preferred.

[0031] The advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the triglycerides are selected from mixtures of hydrogenated rapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, sunflower oil, hydrogenated cocoglycerides, hydrogenated castor oil and shea butter, wherein the mixture preferably consists of several or all of these triglyceride sources.

[0032] If the preparation according to the invention contains hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), this is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 4 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0033] If the preparation according to the invention contains caprylic / capric acid triglycerides (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides), this is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 5.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0034] If the preparation according to the invention contains rapeseed oil (INCI: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil), this is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0035] If the preparation according to the invention contains sunflower oil (in particular that with the INCI Heliathus Annuus Hybrid Oil), this is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 1.6 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0036] The W / O emulsion according to the invention is usually in the form of a cream. Comparison test

[0037] The following preparations were prepared and the rate of water loss was determined gravimetrically. Ingredients (INCI) Cream OP 1483 (wt%) Cream OP 1702 (wt%) Aqua Ad. 100 Ad. 100 Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil 13,5 Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Tocopheryl Acetate, BHT 13,5 Dilsostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 2 2 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil* 10,76 10,76 Cetearyl Alcohol, Octyldodecanol* 0,92 0,92 Cetyl Palmitate 0,3 0,3 Glycerin 4 4 Panthenol 0,1 0,1 Magnesium Sulfate 0,7 0,7 Lecithin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Pantolactone, Sodium Anisate, Citric Acid, Parfum* 0,43 0,43 *= the same mixture was used in both recipes. Implementation:

[0038] For each emulsion, the backs of 10 Petri dishes were covered with cream. This simulated applying cream to the skin (circular movements). The empty weight of each Petri dish was determined before application. The weight after application of the cream was then determined. The difference between the two measured values ​​was used to determine the weight of the applied cream. Table 1: Weight determination of the mineral oil-containing cream Cream OP 1483 Weight (g) Weight + Cream (g) Cream (g) 1 46,74 47,32 0,58 2 46,06 46,56 0,5 3 46,1 46,75 0,65 4 46,08 46,72 0,64 5 46,4 47,06 0,66 6 46,35 46,96 0,61 7 46,09 46,79 0,7 8 46,46 47,23 0,77 9 46,23 47,04 0,81 10 46,79 47,49 0,7 Table 2: Weight determination of the mineral oil-free cream Cream OP 1702 Weight (g) Weight + Cream (g) Cream (g) 1 46 46,53 0,53 2 46,02 46,78 0,76 3 46,71 47,19 0,48 4 45,85 46,31 0,46 5 45,84 46,44 0,6 6 46,03 46,55 0,52 7 46,55 47,25 0,7 8 45,97 46,72 0,75 9 46,1 46,73 0,63 10 46,56 47,27 0,71

[0039] After the Petri dishes were covered with the respective cream, weight was determined at the following times: 30 minutes 60 minutes 90 minutes 180 minutes 300 minutes

[0040] The following tables show the respective weights of the creams at the measurement times mentioned above. Table 3: Weight of the mineral oil-containing samples at the different measurement times Cream OP 1483 Cream (g) 0 min Cream (g) 30 min Cream (g) 60 min Cream (g) 90 min Cream (g) 180 min Cream (g) 300 min 1 0,58 0,56 0,55 0,55 0,52 0,49 2 0,5 0,48 0,47 0,47 0,45 0,42 3 0,65 0,63 0,64 0,63 0,6 0,58 4 0,64 0,63 0,62 0,61 0,59 0,56 5 0,66 0,65 0,64 0,64 0,62 0,59 6 0,61 0,59 0,58 0,59 0,57 0,54 7 0,7 0,68 0,67 0,68 0,68 0,64 8 0,77 0,75 0,76 0,75 0,74 0,71 9 0,81 0,79 0,78 0,78 0,76 0,73 10 0,7 0,76 0,67 0,66 0,65 0,62 Table 4: Weight of the mineral oil-free samples at the different measurement times Cream OP 1702 Cream (g) 0 min Cream (g) 30 min Cream (g) 60 min Cream (g) 90 min Cream (g) 180 min Cream (g) 300 min 1 0,53 0,43 0,37 0,35 0,27 0,21 2 0,76 0,61 0,58 0,54 0,46 0,37 3 0,48 0,35 0,3 0,27 0,21 0,18 4 0,46 0,32 0,3 0,27 0,21 0,17 5 0,6 0,46 0,41 0,38 0,3 0,24 6 0,52 0,39 0,34 0,3 0,23 0,18 7 0,7 0,55 0,51 0,47 0,39 0,31 8 0,75 0,59 0,55 0,52 0,44 0,34 9 0,63 0,5 0,44 0,42 0,33 0,25 10 0,71 0,58 0,52 0,49 0,4 0,31

[0041] As can be seen in Table 3, the samples containing mineral oil lost only a very small amount of weight. This is not the case with the mineral oil-free cream (Table 4). In this case, a significant weight loss, i.e., a loss of water, was already evident within the first 30 minutes. The two following Tables 5 and 6 show the respective percentage weight losses. Table 5: Weight loss in % of mineral oil-containing cements Cream OP 1483 Weight loss (%) 30 min Weight loss (%) 60 min Weight loss (%) 90 min Weight loss (%) 180 min Weight loss (g) 300 min 1 3 5 5 10 16 2 4 6 6 10 16 3 3 2 3 8 11 4 2 3 5 8 12 5 2 3 3 6 11 6 3 5 3 7 11 7 3 4 3 3 9 8 3 1 3 4 8 9 2 4 4 6 10 10 3 4 4 7 11

[0042] After 30 minutes, the samples had lost an average of only 3% of their weight. After 90 minutes, the loss was just 4%. Table 6: Weight loss in % of the mineral oil-free cream Cream OP 1483 Cream (g) 30 min Cream (g) 60 min Cream (g) 90 min Cream (g) 180 min Cream (g) 300 min 1 19 30 34 49 60 2 20 24 29 39 51 3 27 38 44 56 62 4 30 35 41 54 63 5 23 32 37 50 60 6 25 35 42 56 65 7 21 27 33 44 56 8 21 27 31 41 55 9 21 30 33 48 60 10 18 27 31 44 56 mean 23 30 35 84 59

[0043] After 30 minutes, the mineral oil-free samples had already lost 23% of their weight, i.e. water. Examples

[0044] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions, and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or the total weight of the preparations. Ingredients (INCI) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Aqua Ad. 100 Ad. 100 Ad. 100 Ad. 100 Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil 8,47 6,12 4,15 7,10 Brassica Campestris Seed Oil 2,55 2,28 3,22 3,32 Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 1,64 1,53 1,85 1,27 Butyrospermum Parkii Oil 1,43 1,94 1,75 1,79 Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 1,60 1,80 2,20 2,00 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5,50 9,50 7,00 5,70 Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil 4,00 2,00 4,80 4,75 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40 Cetearyl Alcohol 0,33 0,70 0,50 0,30 Octyldodecanol 0,66 0,80 1,00 0,75 Cetyl Palmitate 0,90 0,50 0,70 0,10 Lecithin 0,0055 0,0073 0,0033 0,0068 Ascorbyl Palmitate 0,0045 0,0033 0,0077 0,0041 Perfume 0,17 0,20 0,22 0,15 Glycerin 3,00 4,50 5,50 2,50 Panthenol 0,80 0,50 0,40 0,20 Magnesium Sulfate 0,50 0,60 0,80 0,70 Phenoxyethanol 0,20 0,15 0,10 0,02 Pantolactone 0,0213 0,013 0,0106 0,005 Sodium Anisate 0,10 0,15 0,20 0,06 Citric Acid 0,04 0,06 0,08 0,02

Claims

1. Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion) comprising triglycerides, the preparation being free of mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax and polyethylene waxes, polyacrylates, crosslinked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymers, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (INCI: Octylmethoxycinnamate), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), parabens (especially ethyl-, propyl-, and butylparaben), methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers or polyethylene glycol esters, characterized in that the preparation contains diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate in a concentration of 1.5% to 2.5% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

2. Cosmetic W / O emulsion according to Claim 1, characterized in that that the preparation is free of aliphatic and aromatic hydrocarbons.

3. Cosmetic W / O emulsion according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation additionally comprises straight-chain and / or branched fatty alcohols.

4. Cosmetic W / O emulsion according to Claim 3, characterized in that octyldodecanol, cetyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol are employed as straight-chain and / or branched fatty alcohols.

5. Cosmetic W / O emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of triglycerides in the emulsion is from 10% to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

6. Cosmetic W / O emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that preparation comprises lecithin and / or glycerol.

7. Cosmetic W / O emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that preparation comprises one or more esters selected from the group of compounds ascorbyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, and cetyl palmitate.

8. Cosmetic W / O emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that preparation comprises one or more salts selected from the group of compounds magnesium sulfate, sodium anisate, and sodium citrate.

9. Cosmetic W / O emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that preparation comprises phenoxyethanol and / or panthenol.

10. Cosmetic W / O emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the triglycerides are selected from mixtures of hydrogenated rapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, sunflower oil, hydrogenated coconut glycerides, hydrogenated castor oil, and shea butter, the mixture preferably consisting of a plurality or all of these triglyceride sources.