NON-WOVEN FABRIC MADE FROM NATURAL SILK AND ITS PRODUCTION

Description

FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of nonwoven textiles, in particular the field of nonwoven textiles comprising natural silk. Specifically, the invention relates to a natural silk nonwoven textile, and more specifically to a sheet of natural silk nonwoven textile. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Silk is a textile of animal origin used to make silk fabrics. In industry, it is generally produced by the caterpillars of certain moths, such as the silkworm caterpillar. (Bombyx husband). Sericulture consists of all the operations of cultivating the mulberry tree, raising the silkworm to obtain the cocoon, reeling the cocoon, and spinning the silk.

[0003] The silkworm produces silk proteins that are secreted as a single thread (silk filament) composed primarily of two proteins: fibroin and sericin. The fibroin forms a filament around which the sericin acts as a natural adhesive, securing and protecting the filaments. This silk filament is used by the silkworm to suspend and then construct a cocoon in which it will complete its development and transformation into a moth.

[0004] Traditional methods of silk production involve killing the caterpillar and destroying the cocoon. Typically, the cocoons are placed in ovens at 70 to 80°C, then soaked in boiling water to dissolve and soften the sericin, thus releasing the fibroin filament. During this stage, most of the sericin present in the cocoon's natural silk is eliminated, either destroyed by the heat or dissolved and washed away by the rinsing water. Next comes a spinning stage, during which several fibroin filaments, typically around ten, are joined and bonded together as the remaining sericin cools.

[0005] Therefore, silk thread obtained through conventional manufacturing methods contains a low proportion of sericin, which is poorly water-soluble. This thread is also composed of multiple fibroin filaments, rather than a single filament as in the original silkworm silk. Fabrics made from this thread will thus have properties entirely different from those of natural silk. Furthermore, this silk production process involves killing the animal used to build the cocoon.

[0006] Sericin possesses very specific properties that distinguish it from fibroin. In particular, it has nourishing, antioxidant, UV-protective, and antibacterial effects, especially on the skin. Therefore, there is a need for textiles made from natural silk, rich in sericin, rather than silk extracted by spinning from a cocoon, which is processed and low in sericin.

[0007] Due to the high sericin content of natural silk, it is difficult to produce natural silk yarns, and such yarns would likely be unsuitable for weaving. Therefore, natural silk textiles will preferably be non-woven.

[0008] Given the increasing attention to animal suffering and the conditions of animal exploitation, there is also a demand for new methods of manufacturing silk textiles that are not produced by interrupting the growth of the butterfly, and in particular for new methods that avoid killing the caterpillar, chrysalis and / or butterfly.

[0009] Document WO2005049899 describes a silk manufacturing process using silkworms moving on a flat surface.

[0010] The Applicant has conducted research on the structure of silk and the behavior of silkworms, which has led her to design and manufacture non-woven textiles made of natural silk, as well as to design and implement a process for manufacturing non-woven textiles that overcomes the drawbacks of prior art processes. SUMMARY

[0011] The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a non-woven textile of natural silk, comprising the following steps: (a) raising a silkworm; (b) collecting the silkworm at a time when it is secreting natural silk; (c) depositing it on a surface of a support, the support being elevated, preferably by means of a tube, column, or rod, in which: the surface of the support does not have any asperities with a dimension greater than 3 mm, preferably greater than 1 mm, more preferably greater than 0.5 mm, even more preferably greater than 0.1 mm; the surface of the support does not have any recesses with a width greater than 1.5 cm, preferably greater than 1 cm, more preferably greater than 5 mm, even more preferably greater than 1 mm; and the surface and / or the support is configured so as to limit the progression of the silkworm; (d) wait the time necessary for the desired amount of natural silk to be deposited on the surface of the support, or for the silkworm to have secreted all of its silk; (e) remove the silkworm from the resulting natural silk nonwoven textile; and (f) optionally, separate the resulting natural silk nonwoven textile from the surface of the support.

[0012] According to one embodiment, the surface of the support is two-dimensional in shape.

[0013] According to one embodiment, the surface of the support is partially or entirely three-dimensional in shape, preferably convex in shape.

[0014] According to one embodiment, the surface of the support is an oval; a disk; a polygon such as a triangle, a rectangle, a pentagon, a hexagon or an octagon; or one of their combinations.

[0015] According to one embodiment, the surface of the support is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, a cube, a hexahedron, an octahedron, a regular dodecahedron and a regular icosahedron; a cone; a sphere; a partially hollowed sphere; a hemisphere; an ovoid; a polyhedral dome; or one of their combinations.

[0016] According to one embodiment, the surface of the support has no roughness and / or no hollows.

[0017] According to one embodiment, the support does not have any asperities with a dimension greater than 3 mm up to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferably 25 mm, even more preferably 50 mm, from the surface of the support.

[0018] According to one embodiment, the support does not have recesses with a width greater than 1.5 cm up to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferably 25 mm, even more preferably 50 mm, from the surface of the support.

[0019] According to one embodiment, the non-woven textile of natural silk is a sheet. DEFINITIONS

[0020] In the present invention, the terms below are defined as follows: " two-dimensional" refers to a property of a surface that is flat, that is, devoid of relief. A two-dimensional surface is notably devoid of concavity and convexity. The process according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to obtain sheets of two-dimensional shape." cocoon " refers to a natural silk casing made by a silkworm in which it completes its transformation into a butterfly. "concave" refers to a property of a surface that is hollow, that is, that has a rounded shape towards the inside. Its opposite is "convex" or "bulged". The concavity of an object refers to the part of it that has a hollow shape. convex "Refers to a property of a surface that has a raised or convex curve, that is, a shape that curves outwards. The convexity of an object refers to the part of it that has a convex shape." approximately" placed before a number, means plus or minus 10% of the face value of that number. "thickness" When the context relates to a sheet, it refers to one of the sheet's dimensions, measured by the distance between its two principal faces. For example, when the sheet can be considered a parallelepiped or a disk, its thickness is the height of the parallelepiped or disk. In the invention, the thickness of a sheet will generally be substantially less than each of the dimensions of the sheet's faces. Unless the context clearly indicates otherwise, the thickness is always measured at the center of the sheet's faces. leaf " Or " tablecloth"Sheet" are synonymous and refer to a flat piece of textile having two principal faces and a physical boundary called the "periphery." A sheet can be, for example, a fabric, a canvas, a cloth, a veil, or a drape. Physical characteristics that can be associated with a sheet include, in particular, its thickness, perimeter, surface area, and density. In the invention, a sheet will generally have a thickness substantially less than each of the dimensions of its faces. For example, a sheet with square faces may have a side length greater than or equal to 5 times its thickness; and a sheet with disc-shaped faces may have a diameter greater than or equal to 5 times its thickness. fibroin " refers to a protein filament produced by the silkworm. Fibroin is the main constituent of natural silk. "satin"refers to a property of a surface that partially reflects visible light in such a way as to present a soft and slightly lustrous appearance, but which is not bright, reflective, or luminous. sericin"Sericin" refers to a protein produced by the silkworm. Sericin is one of the main constituents of natural silk, along with fibroin. Sericin can be distinguished into several fractions, which have different solubilities: sericin A is the outermost fraction from fibroin, sericin B is the intermediate layer, and sericin C is the innermost layer adjacent to fibroin. By allowing the fibroin filaments to adhere to each other, sericin acts as an adhesive within the natural silk and the cocoon. Most prior art processes for manufacturing silk threads or sheets extract at least one type of sericin, intentionally or unintentionally. "Natural silk" or "raw silk" refers to a protein fiber synthesized by a silkworm.Natural silk essentially consists of a filament with two strands of fibroin arranged in a double helix, linked by disulfide bridges and surrounded by successive layers of sericin. A silkworm cocoon is essentially made of natural silk. When it is being secreted by the silkworm, natural silk is also called " drool. " support " refers to an article comprising at least one solid surface capable of being covered by a sheet of textile, in particular a sheet according to the invention." raised " refers to a state of an article, particularly a support, which is placed at a sufficient height and distance from any solid material so that a silkworm deposited on the article cannot leave the article without falling. A " means of elevation " refers to any means of placing an item in a state of elevation, that is to say, of making it elevated. "surface",When it relates to a part of a support, it refers to a solid surface capable of being covered by a sheet of textile, in particular a sheet according to the invention. textile "Refers to a material that can be split or processed into textile fibers or yarns. Examples of textiles include silk, cotton, hemp, linen, wool, and synthetic fibers. A woven textile is called a "fabric." non-woven textiles This refers to a material with a structure and / or appearance similar to a fabric, but which is not woven. A nonwoven textile is traditionally made from fibers bonded together chemically, mechanically, and / or thermally. An example of a nonwoven textile is felt, which is made by pressing and boiling natural fibers such as wool. "three-dimensional"refers to a property of a surface that includes at least one non-planar part, that is, that includes at least one relief. A three-dimensional surface may, in particular, include a concavity and / or a convexity. The process according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to obtain three-dimensionally shaped sheets in volume, such as hemispheres or spheres. silkworm refers to an eruciform larva (" caterpillar "), from a butterfly that produces natural silk, for example the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx husband), the Tussah silkworm (Antheraea pernyi), the saturnia of the Japanese oak (Antheraea yamamai), or the tree of heaven silkworms, also called Bombyx eri (Sarnia cynthia). "veiling" refers to a translucent sheet, that is, a sheet whose material allows visible light to pass through, but without allowing objects to be clearly distinguished through the sheet. DETAILED DESCRIPTION Natural silk non-woven textile sheet

[0021] The following description relates to a sheet of non-woven textile of natural silk obtained by the process according to the invention.

[0022] According to one embodiment, the sheet has a thickness substantially less than each of the dimensions of its faces.

[0023] In one embodiment, the shortest of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 5 times the sheet thickness. In a specific embodiment, the shortest of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 10 times the sheet thickness. In a more specific embodiment, the shortest of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 50 times the sheet thickness. In an even more specific embodiment, the shortest of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 100 times the sheet thickness. In yet another specific embodiment, the shortest of the other dimensions of the sheet is greater than or equal to 500 times the sheet thickness.

[0024] In one embodiment, the sheet thickness is at least 5 nm, preferably at least 5 µm, more preferably at least 0.1 mm, over an area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 99%, of its total surface area. In another embodiment, the sheet thickness is less than 100 mm, preferably less than 10 mm, more preferably less than 1 mm, over an area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 99%, of its total surface area. In one embodiment, the thickness of the sheet is between 0.001 and 100 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 10 mm, more preferably between 0.1 and 1 mm, over an area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 99%, of its total area.

[0025] According to one embodiment, the density of the sheet is between 15 and 45 g / m², preferably between 20 and 40 g / m², more preferably between 27 and 31 g / m².

[0026] In one embodiment, the leaf is symmetrical. In another embodiment, the leaf is asymmetrical.

[0027] In one embodiment, the sheet is two-dimensional. In another embodiment, the sheet is partially or entirely three-dimensional, such as having a convex or concave shape. In one embodiment, the sheet is partially two-dimensional and partially three-dimensional. In one embodiment, the sheet includes at least one convex shape. In one embodiment, the sheet is convex. In one embodiment, the sheet is not concave. In one embodiment, the sheet has no concave shapes. An example of a concave shape within the meaning of the invention is a spherical shape with a diameter greater than or equal to 300 mm.

[0028] In one embodiment, the faces of the sheet are in the shape of an oval; a disk; a polygon such as a triangle, a rectangle (for example a rhombus or a square), a pentagon, a hexagon or an octagon; or combinations thereof.

[0029] In one specific embodiment, the faces of the sheet are rectangles whose width is greater than or equal to 5 times, preferably 10 times, more preferably 50 times, even more preferably 100 times, even more preferably 500 times, the thickness of the sheet. "Width" is defined in this context as the shorter of the two sides of the rectangle's surface.

[0030] In a specific embodiment, the faces of the sheet are disks whose diameter is greater than or equal to 5 times, preferably 10 times, more preferably 50 times, even more preferably 100 times, even more preferably 500 times, the thickness of the sheet.

[0031] In one embodiment, the sheet is three-dimensional and is a partially or completely regular volume. In a specific embodiment, the sheet is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, cube, hexahedron (for example, a parallelepiped), octahedron, regular dodecahedron, and regular icosahedron; a cone, a sphere; a partially hollow sphere, a hemisphere; an ovoid; a polyhedral dome; or combinations thereof. In a specific embodiment, the edges of the polyhedron are marked by a protruding rim along the entire length of the edge.

[0032] In a specific embodiment, the sheet is a sphere or hemisphere whose circumference is greater than or equal to 5 times, preferably 10 times, more preferably 50 times, even more preferably 100 times, even more preferably 500 times, its thickness, measured at any point on the sphere or hemisphere.

[0033] In one embodiment, the leaf is three-dimensional and the leaf is a volume of irregular shape, for example a flower petal or an asymmetrical shape.

[0034] In one embodiment, the sheet is three-dimensional and the sheet is a volume that forms part of a garment or a garment, for example a corset.

[0035] In one embodiment, the sheet is a voile, that is, a translucent sheet. In one embodiment, the voile has a thickness of between 0.001 and 1 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 mm, more preferably between 0.1 and 0.5 mm, over an area corresponding to at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, more preferably at least 99%, of its total surface area. In another embodiment, the voile has a thickness of 0.1 to 0.3 mm over an area corresponding to at least 90% of its total surface area, and its transparency is comparable, for example, to that of organza.

[0036] In another embodiment, the voile has a thickness of 0.3 to 0.9 mm over an area corresponding to at least 90% of its total surface area, and its transparency is comparable, for example, to that of silk chiffon. In another embodiment, the voile has a thickness of 1 to 1.5 mm over an area corresponding to at least 90% of its total surface area, and its transparency is comparable, for example, to that of silk twill. In another embodiment, the voile has a thickness of at least 1.6 mm over an area corresponding to at least 90% of its total surface area, and its degree of opacity is comparable, for example, to that of felt. According to yet another embodiment, the sheet is opaque.

[0037] In one embodiment, the sheet has a front and a back. In one embodiment, the back has a more satiny appearance than the front.

[0038] In one embodiment, the sheet includes at least one projecting edge. In one embodiment, the projecting edge is located at the periphery of the sheet. In another embodiment, the sheet has a front and a back, and the edge projects beyond the front of the sheet. In one embodiment, the thickness of the projecting edge is between 0.1 and 100 mm, preferably between 0.25 and 25 mm, more preferably between 0.5 and 5 mm. In one embodiment, the width of the projecting edge is between 0.002 and 12.5 mm, preferably between 0.01 and 2.5 mm, more preferably between 0.05 and 0.5 mm. In one embodiment, the area occupied by the projecting edge represents less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 1%, of the total surface area of ​​the sheet.Advantageously, the raised edge improves the physical properties of the sheet, for example, its resistance to deformation (stiffness). Advantageously, the presence of the raised edge eliminates the need for a finishing step such as rolling or overlocking (forming a hem or edge). Advantageously, the presence of the raised edge eliminates the need for a finishing step such as overlocking (securing the threads at the periphery of a fabric).

[0039] In one embodiment, the leaf is not a cocoon. In another embodiment, the leaf contains no material derived from a cocoon. In another embodiment, the leaf is not made from cocoons.

[0040] In one embodiment, the sheet comprises fibers and / or strands of fibroin coated with at least one sericin. In one embodiment, the sheet comprises fibers and / or strands of fibroin coated with sericin A, sericin B, and / or sericin C. In a specific embodiment, the sheet comprises fibers and / or strands of fibroin coated with sericin A, sericin B, and sericin C.

[0041] According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns and / or fibers comprising fibroin in an amount between 70% and 80% and at least one sericin in an amount between 20% and 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of the yarn or fiber.

[0042] In one embodiment, the sheet comprises yarns and / or fibers having the composition indicated in the Table 1. In one embodiment, the sheet has the composition indicated in the Table 1. Table 1 Component % (weight / weight) Fibroin 70-80 Sericin 20-30 Waxes 0,4-0,8 Carbohydrates 1,2-1,6 Inorganic components Approximately 0.7 Pigments Approximately 0.2

[0043] In one embodiment, the sheet comprises strands longer than 1 m, preferably longer than 100 m, more preferably longer than 500 m, and even more preferably longer than 1 km. In another embodiment, the sheet comprises strands shorter than 3 km, preferably shorter than 2 km. In yet another embodiment, the strands are longer than 1 km but shorter than 2 km. In a specific embodiment, the sheet comprises strands longer than 1 km.

[0044] According to one embodiment, the sheet comprises fibers with a length between 600 nm and 1 m, preferably between 50 µm and 1 mm.

[0045] In one embodiment, the fibers and / or wires have a triangular cross-section. In another embodiment, if their cross-section is approximated as a circle, the fibers and / or wires have a diameter of approximately 10 µm.

[0046] In one embodiment, the yarns and / or fibers are arranged in a non-random manner. In one embodiment, the yarns and / or fibers are oriented. In one embodiment, the yarns and / or fibers do not form a mesh.

[0047] In one embodiment, the sheet comprises silk fibers that decompose between 100 and 150°C, preferably at about 130°C. In another embodiment, the sheet comprises silk fibers having a carbonization temperature between 250 and 350°C, preferably about 300°C. In another embodiment, the sheet comprises silk fibers having an elongation capacity of about 17% to about 25% when dry, and about 30% when wet.

[0048] The non-woven textile sheet according to the invention can undergo various post-treatments, including finishing techniques known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the sheet can undergo the post-treatments generally applied to silk in the textile industry.

[0049] According to one embodiment, the sheet has undergone a post-treatment step such as a dyeing, printing, chemical finishing (in dispersion, emulsion or suspension, etc.), mechanical finishing (fulling, wooling, shearing, flame-making, ramification, sanforizing, etc.), coating, thermoforming, thermo-modeling (as defined below), cutting, pleating, embroidery or inlaying of material.

[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, post-processing " thermo-modelingThis refers to a process comprising the following steps: (i) soaking a sheet of nonwoven fabric in hot water, (ii) placing the still-hot sheet on a mold, and (iii) slightly stretching the sheet, (iv) drying the sheet. Step (i) slightly dissolves the sericin, thus relaxing the weave of the nonwoven. Step (ii) shapes the sheet to the mold. Step (iii) ensures that the sheet correctly conforms to the mold. Step (iv) might, for example, involve leaving the sheet at room temperature to dry. After drying, the sheet permanently retains the mold's shape. This process does not require a vacuum system.

[0051] In one embodiment, the sheet was treated by thermoforming at a temperature below 60°C, preferably below 50°C, more preferably at 40°C. In another embodiment, the sheet has a thickness between 0.025 and 5 mm, preferably between 0.1 and 1 mm, and the sheet was treated by thermoforming.

[0052] In one embodiment, the sheet was dyed at a temperature below 60°C, preferably below 40°C, more preferably at a cold temperature (about 25°C).

[0053] In one embodiment, the sheet has not undergone any post-treatment leading to the extraction, denaturation, and / or destruction of a sericin selected from sericins A, B, and / or C. In another embodiment, the sheet has not undergone any post-treatment involving chemical sizing, mechanical sizing, and / or thermoforming. In yet another embodiment, the sheet has not undergone any post-treatment. Article

[0054] The description also relates to an article that comprises or is made of at least one sheet of natural silk non-woven textile as described above. In one embodiment, the article comprises at least one sheet as described above. In another embodiment, the article is made of at least one sheet as described above.

[0055] In one embodiment, the article comprises at least one support, each support being wholly or partially coated or covered by a sheet as described above. In another embodiment, the article comprises at least one support partially coated or covered by a sheet. In yet another embodiment, the article comprises at least one support completely coated or covered by a sheet. In one embodiment, the sheet is partially attached to the support. In another embodiment, the sheet is not attached to the support. In a specific embodiment, the support is placed on an elevating means.

[0056] In one embodiment, the article comprises at least two permanently bonded sheets of natural silk nonwoven textile. In one embodiment, the sheets are bonded using at least one sericin. In another embodiment, the sheets are bonded using natural silk yarns comprising fibroin coated with at least one sericin.

[0057] According to one embodiment, the article is a compartment comprising two leaves, joined on part of their periphery by sericin, and comprising a space between the two leaves. In one embodiment, the two leaves have the same area. In another embodiment, the two leaves have different areas.

[0058] According to one embodiment, the article has undergone post-processing intended to modify the properties or appearance of the sheet, as described above. Manufacturing process

[0059] The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a non-woven textile of natural silk.

[0060] In one embodiment, the natural silk nonwoven textile is a sheet. In another embodiment, the sheet of natural silk nonwoven textile is as described above. In yet another embodiment, the natural silk nonwoven textile is not a sheet.

[0061] According to one embodiment, the invention relates to a method for manufacturing a non-woven textile of natural silk, comprising the following steps: (a) rear a silkworm; (b) collect the silkworm at a time when it is secreting natural silk; (c) place it on a surface of a support, the support being raised, preferably by means of a tube, column or rod in which the surface of the support and the support do not have any attachment point to which the silkworm can fix the silk; and in which the surface and / or the support are configured so as to limit the progress of the silkworm; (d) wait the time necessary for the desired quantity of natural silk to be deposited on the surface of the support, or for the silkworm to have secreted all of its silk; (e) remove the silkworm from the resulting non-woven natural silk textile.

[0062] In this context, the term "progression" refers to the movement of the silkworm parallel to, and across, the surface of the support. Optionally, the process may include a step "(f) separating the resulting natural silk nonwoven textile from the surface of the support."

[0063] According to one embodiment, the silkworm is the caterpillar of the mulberry silkworm. (Bombyx husband), Tussah silkworm (Antheraea pernyi), of the saturnism of the Japanese oak (Antheraea yamamai), or the ailanthus silkworm (Samia cynthia). In one embodiment, the silkworm is the caterpillar of the mulberry silkworm. (Bombyx husband). The appropriate rearing conditions for silkworms to secrete natural silk fall under classical sericulture and are well known to those skilled in the art. According to one embodiment, silkworm rearing involves feeding them white mulberry leaves. (Morus alba) for approximately 30 days.

[0064] In one embodiment, the silkworm continuously secretes silk over a period of 12 to 72 hours. In a typical embodiment, the silkworm secretes for 20 to 50 hours, for example, 48 hours.

[0065] According to one embodiment, several silkworms are collected and deposited simultaneously and / or successively on the surface of the support. In one embodiment, the number of silkworms present simultaneously on the surface of a support is between 1 and 600, preferably between 1 and 400, and more preferably between 1 and 300 silkworms per square meter of surface.

[0066] In one embodiment, the process is carried out at a temperature between 15 and 35°C, preferably between 20 and 25°C, and more preferably at about 22°C. In one embodiment, the process is carried out under homogeneous lighting, preferably without any light gradient. In one embodiment, the process is carried out under controlled ambient humidity conditions, preferably with a humidity between 40% and 20%, typically with a humidity of about 30%.

[0067] Without wishing to be bound by any scientific theory, the Applicant believes that once deposited on the surface of the substrate, the silkworm will seek three points of attachment in space to suspend its future cocoon, and if it succeeds, it will weave a cocoon around itself instead of depositing the silk on the substrate's surface. To obtain a non-woven textile and not a cocoon, the silkworm must therefore be placed in conditions that prevent cocoon formation, that is, prevent the silkworm from accessing three points of attachment in space.

[0068] In the method according to the invention, this result is achieved because the surface of the support, as well as the support itself, does not have any attachment points to which the silkworm can attach silk. In other words, it is preferable that the surface of the support, if it includes one or more attachment points, only have attachment points that are all located in the same plane, thus placing the silkworm in conditions where it cannot suspend a cocoon in space. The support may include attachment points, but it is preferable that they be located in the same plane as any other points present on the surface and / or located beyond the reach of the silkworm. For example, the support may include one or more "inaccessible" attachment points that the silkworm could not reach without falling off the support.

[0069] In one embodiment, the support surface is entirely two-dimensional. In another embodiment, the support surface is partially or entirely three-dimensional, such as convex. In yet another embodiment, the support surface is partially two-dimensional and partially three-dimensional.

[0070] In one embodiment, the support surface includes at least one convexity. In another embodiment, the support surface is convex. In a specific embodiment, the support surface is a hemisphere, preferably a hemisphere with its convexity facing upwards. In another embodiment, the support surface is not concave (i.e., is "non-concave"). In another embodiment, the support surface has no concavities. In a specific embodiment, the support surface is two-dimensional and / or convex.

[0071] In one embodiment, the surface of the support is a closed volume. In another embodiment, the surface of the support is a closed volume without edges.

[0072] In one embodiment, an attachment point to which the silkworm can fix the silk is an asperity. The surface of the support does not have asperities larger than 3 mm, preferably does not have asperities larger than 1 mm, more preferably does not have asperities larger than 0.5 mm, and even more preferably does not have asperities larger than 0.1 mm. In another embodiment, the surface of the support has asperities smaller than 3 mm, preferably less than 1 mm, more preferably less than 0.5 mm, and even more preferably less than 0.1 mm. In another embodiment, the surface of the support has asperities larger than 0.05 mm, preferably greater than 0.01 mm, more preferably greater than 0.005 mm, and even more preferably greater than 0.001 mm.In a specific embodiment, the substrate surface is smooth, i.e., free of any roughness. An example of a rough surface is a textured surface such as sandpaper. Such a surface can be obtained, for example, from a smooth surface (such as plexiglass) by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example, by sanding.

[0073] According to one embodiment, an attachment point to which the silkworm can fix the silk is a hollow.

[0074] The surface of the support does not have any recesses with a width greater than 1.5 cm, preferably does not have any recesses with a width greater than 1 cm, more preferably does not have any recesses with a width greater than 5 mm, even more preferably does not have any recesses with a width greater than 1 mm.

[0075] In one embodiment, the substrate surface has recesses less than 15 mm wide, preferably less than 10 mm, more preferably less than 5 mm, and even more preferably less than 1 mm. In another embodiment, the substrate surface has recesses greater than 0.5 mm wide, preferably greater than 0.1 mm, more preferably greater than 0.05 mm, and even more preferably greater than 0.01 mm. In a specific embodiment, the substrate surface is solid, i.e., without recesses. An example of a surface with recesses is a porous surface such as wire mesh or a sponge. Such a surface can be obtained, for example, from a solid surface by any means known to those skilled in the art, such as perforation.

[0076] According to one embodiment, the sericin does not adhere irreversibly to the surface of the support, which allows the non-woven textile to be detached without damaging the textile.

[0077] In one embodiment, the surface is composed of or made of a sericin-impermeable material. In one embodiment, the substrate surface is made of glass, metal, an inorganic polymer such as polysiloxanes (silicones), or an organic polymer such as polystyrene (PS), poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), for example Plexiglas® or Altuglas®. In one embodiment, the substrate surface is made of leather; a woven or non-woven textile such as woven silk or cotton; or paper such as cardboard. In one embodiment, the substrate surface is a sericin-permeable material, such as a non-woven natural silk textile. In one embodiment, the substrate surface is partially or entirely made of a material that is not toxic to silkworms.

[0078] According to one embodiment, the surface of the support and / or the support is two-dimensional. In one embodiment, the surface of the support and / or the support is an oval; a disk; a polygon such as a triangle, a rectangle (for example a rhombus or a square), a pentagon, a hexagon or an octagon; or one of their combinations.

[0079] In one embodiment, the surface of the support and / or the support itself is partially or entirely three-dimensional. In another embodiment, the surface of the support and / or the support is a partially or entirely regular volume. In a specific embodiment, the surface of the support and / or the support is a polyhedron such as a tetrahedron, cube, hexahedron (e.g., a parallelepiped), octahedron, regular dodecahedron, and regular icosahedron; a cone; a sphere; a partially hollow sphere; a hemisphere; an ovoid; a polyhedral dome; or a combination thereof. In another embodiment, the surface of the support and / or the support itself is partially or entirely three-dimensional and is an irregularly shaped volume.

[0080] In one embodiment, the support surface and / or the support itself is a volume shaped like a part of a garment or garment. In one embodiment, the support surface and / or the support is symmetrical. In one embodiment, the support surface and / or the support itself is asymmetrical. According to one embodiment, the support surface is at least 70 mm long and / or has an apparent diameter of at least 70 mm. According to one embodiment, the dimensions of the support surface can be modified after the natural silk thread deposition step. In one embodiment, the dimensions of the surface are modified by changing the dimensions of the support, for example, by inflating and deflating, or by folding and unfolding.

[0081] In one embodiment, the support does not have, near its surface, any attachment point to which the silkworm can attach the silk. In another embodiment, the support does not have any attachment point to which the silkworm can attach the silk up to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferably 25 mm, and even more preferably 50 mm, from the surface of the support. In a specific embodiment, the support does not have any attachment point to which the silkworm can attach the silk.

[0082] In the absence of any obstacle to its progress, the silkworm will continue its movement without limit across the surface of the substrate, depositing only a single thread. Therefore, to obtain a non-woven textile with a thickness greater than the diameter of the silk thread, it is necessary to restrict the silkworm's movement to the substrate surface, limiting it to the surface area of ​​the substrate.

[0083] In this process according to the invention, the following result is obtained: (i) because the surface and / or support includes at least one means of limiting the progression of the silkworm; and / or (ii) because the surface and / or support is configured so as to limit the progression of the silkworm.

[0084] In one embodiment, the surface and / or support includes at least one means of limiting the silkworm's progress. In another embodiment, the surface and / or support is configured so as to limit the silkworm's progress.

[0085] In one embodiment, the configuration used to limit the silkworm's progress is that the support is raised, for example by means of at least one means of elevation. The silkworm's progress is thus limited by encountering an empty space in front of it, and is forced to change direction, thereby depositing its thread again on the surface of the support.

[0086] In one embodiment, the support is placed and / or fixed on a lifting means, which is a part whose lateral dimensions are substantially reduced compared to the lateral dimensions of the support surface, preferably reduced by 25%, more preferably by 50%, and even more preferably by at least 75%. Examples of lifting means according to this embodiment are a tube, a column, or a rod fixed to a base or an axis.

[0087] In one embodiment, the support is horizontally placed and / or fixed on a means of elevation.

[0088] In another embodiment, the support comprises a horizontal portion including a surface, and this horizontal portion is raised by means of another portion of the support. In a specific embodiment, the horizontal portion overhangs an elongated vertical portion whose lateral dimensions are substantially reduced compared to the lateral dimensions of the surface, preferably reduced by 25%, more preferably by 50%, and even more preferably by at least 75%. An example of a means of raising the support according to this embodiment is a foot with a flared base that forms part of the support.

[0089] In one embodiment, the position of the support in space can be modified during the process. In one embodiment, it is possible to choose the surface of the support on which the silkworm will deposit the silk thread by orienting this surface so that it is the highest part of the support.

[0090] According to one embodiment, the product of the process is an article comprising at least one support, each support being coated or covered in whole or in part by a sheet as described above. According to one embodiment, the process does not include the step "(f) separating the obtained natural silk nonwoven textile from the surface of the support".

[0091] According to one embodiment, the process includes a step of bonding at least two sheets of natural silk nonwoven textile together. In one embodiment, the portions of the sheets to be joined are slightly moistened, then placed side by side, and then steps (a) to (e) of the process are carried out to ensure the permanent bonding of the sheets by depositing new natural silk threads. In a specific embodiment, the sheets are joined along at least one edge. In a specific embodiment, the sheets are overlapped over all or part of their surface.

[0092] The dry process, melt process, and wet process are well-known manufacturing methods for nonwoven textiles. According to one embodiment, the natural silk nonwoven textile is obtained neither by the dry process, nor by the melt process, nor by the wet process.

[0093] The process according to the invention may optionally include one or more post-treatment steps, including finishing techniques known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the process may include post-treatment steps generally applied to silk in the textile industry.

[0094] According to one embodiment, the post-treatment step is a step of dyeing, printing, chemical finishing (in dispersion, emulsion or suspension, etc.), mechanical finishing (fulling, woolening, shearing, flame-making, ramming, sanforizing, etc.), coating, thermoforming, thermo-modeling (as defined below), cutting, pleating, embroidery or inlaying of material.

[0095] In one embodiment, the natural silk nonwoven fabric was heat-treated at a temperature below 60°C, preferably below 50°C, and more preferably at 40°C. In another embodiment, the natural silk nonwoven fabric has a thickness between 0.025 and 5 mm, preferably between 0.1 and 1 mm, and was heat-treated. In yet another embodiment, the natural silk nonwoven fabric was dyed at a temperature below 60°C, preferably below 40°C, and more preferably at a low temperature (approximately 25°C).

[0096] In one embodiment, the natural silk nonwoven textile has not undergone any post-treatment leading to the extraction, denaturation, and / or destruction of a sericin selected from sericins A, B, and / or C. In another embodiment, the natural silk nonwoven textile has not undergone any post-treatment involving chemical finishing, mechanical finishing, and / or thermoforming. In another embodiment, the natural silk nonwoven textile has not undergone any post-treatment. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0097] THE Figures 1 to 4 These are photographs depicting examples of two-dimensional sheets of non-woven natural silk textile. Figures 5 to 8 These are photographs depicting examples of sheets according to the invention, made of post-treated natural silk non-woven textile. Figures 9 to 15 And 24These are photographs representing examples of articles, comprising or consisting of at least one sheet of non-woven natural silk textile, and / or comprising a support coated or covered in whole or in part by a sheet of non-woven natural silk textile. Figure 16 is a diagram representing the different stages of a manufacturing process for a non-woven textile of natural silk according to the invention. Figure 17 is a photograph representing an example of a support usable in a manufacturing process for a non-woven textile of natural silk according to the invention. Figures 18 and 19 These are photographs depicting silkworms during a stage of a manufacturing process for a non-woven textile of natural silk according to the invention. Figures 20 And 21 These are diagrams representing particular embodiments of a process for manufacturing a non-woven textile of natural silk according to the invention. Figure 22is a diagram representing a set of supports usable in a manufacturing process for a non-woven textile of natural silk according to the invention. Figures 23 And 25 has 30 These are photographs depicting examples of sheets made of non-woven natural silk textiles, in partially or fully three-dimensional shapes. Figure 31 This is a photograph depicting an example of a sheet of non-woven natural silk textile, partially three-dimensional in shape. This sheet is garment-shaped and has undergone post-processing. EXAMPLES

[0098] The present invention will be better understood by reading the following examples which illustrate the invention in a non-limiting way. Example 1: Sheets made of natural silk non-woven textile

[0099] THE Figures 1 and 2 show two two-dimensional sheets of natural silk non-woven fabric. The sheet shown on the figure 1is a square sheet measuring 70 mm x 70 mm x 0.2 mm with four projecting edges, each 3 mm wide, giving it a thickness of 1.5 mm at its periphery. The sheet shown on the figure 2 is a square sheet with sides of 500 mm and a thickness of 0.5 mm, having four protruding edges of 3 mm width, giving it a thickness of 1 mm at its periphery.

[0100] There Figure 3 shows two-dimensional sheets of non-woven natural silk textile, which are discs with a diameter of 70 mm and a thickness of 0.3 mm, featuring a protruding rim 3 mm wide, giving them a thickness of 1 mm at their periphery ( Figure 4 ).

[0101] There Figure 4 shows a two-dimensional non-woven textile sheet of natural silk, which is a borderless rectangle obtained by cutting a sheet according to the invention, with dimensions 60 mm x 100 mm x 0.2 mm.

[0102] There Figure 23shows a sheet of non-woven natural silk textile with a partially three-dimensional shape, which is a hexagonal cone with a projecting rim at the periphery of said base. The edges of the cone are marked by the presence of a projecting rim along the entire length of the edge.

[0103] There Figure 25 shows a sheet of non-woven natural silk textile in a fully three-dimensional shape, which is a rectangular-based dome with a protruding rim at the periphery of the rectangle.

[0104] There Figure 26 shows a sheet of non-woven textile made of natural silk in a fully three-dimensional shape, which is an ovoid.

[0105] There Figure 27 shows a sheet of non-woven natural silk textile of fully three-dimensional shape, which is a hemisphere with a protruding rim at the periphery of the cutting plane.

[0106] There Figure 28shows a sheet of non-woven natural silk textile in a fully three-dimensional shape, which is a partially hollowed sphere.

[0107] There Figure 29 shows a sheet of non-woven natural silk textile of partially three-dimensional shape with a protruding rim at its periphery, which is shaped like flower petals.

[0108] There Figure 30 shows a sheet of non-woven natural silk textile with a partially three-dimensional shape, which is an asymmetrical shape. Example 2: Sheets of non-woven natural silk textile after post-processing

[0109] THE Figures 5 to 8 show sheets of non-woven natural silk textile that have undergone a post-processing step: printing ( Figure 5 ), thermo-modeling and dyeing ( Figure 6 ), sewing ( Figure 7 ), bead embroidery ( Figure 8 ).

[0110] There Figure 31shows a sheet of non-woven natural silk textile with a partially three-dimensional shape, which is in the form of a garment. The garment is a corset and has undergone several post-treatments: sewing a hem on the edge, perforation of the border with integration of rings and threading of a lace. Example 3: Articles comprising or consisting of at least one sheet of natural silk non-woven textile, and / or comprising a support coated or covered in whole or in part by a sheet of natural silk non-woven textile

[0111] THE Figures 9 And 24 show a three-dimensional parallelepiped article comprising five sheets of natural silk non-woven textile permanently joined together at their edges. This article was obtained using the process described in Example 5 as illustrated by the diagram in the Figure 20 . The periphery of the hollowed face has a projecting rim and the edges of the parallelepiped are marked by the presence of a projecting rim along the entire length of the edge.

[0112] There Figure 10shows an article comprising a bowl-shaped lower piece and a hemispherical upper piece consisting of a sheet of natural silk non-woven textile in a fully three-dimensional shape. The hemisphere was manufactured using a process analogous to that described in Example 4, in which the support comprises at least one hemispherical surface. It could also be obtained using the process described in Example 6 as illustrated by the diagram in the Figure 21 , followed by a cutting step of the resulting sphere. Combined with a candle, this item can serve as a candle holder. Combined with an electrical circuit and a light bulb, this item can serve as an indoor lamp.

[0113] There Figure 11 shows an item made of sheets of natural silk non-woven fabric, cut and assembled to form an artificial flower. Figure 12 shows such a flower fixed on a plastic stem.

[0114] There Figure 13 shows an item consisting of a holder, which is a glass container, covered on its entire external surface by a sheet of non-woven natural silk fabric. This item can serve as a candle holder, as illustrated in the Figure 14 which shows the item associated with a lit candle placed inside the container.

[0115] There Figure 15 shows an item comprising a support which is a 7 cm diameter leather disc, which is covered over its entire surface with a sheet of non-woven natural silk textile. This support is therefore entirely enclosed within the sheet. Example 4: Manufacturing process for a non-woven textile of natural silk

[0116] There Figure 16 shows the different stages of an example of a manufacturing process for a non-woven textile of natural silk according to the invention. Materials and Methods Material

[0117] The substrate surface is typically two-dimensional; or three-dimensional and convex; smooth or free of any irregularities larger than 0.1 mm; and solid, non-concave, and without any concavities. It is made of plastic (PS, PMMA) or glass, which are impermeable to sericin. The substrate and its surface are square, disc, hemisphere, or other shapes. The substrate dimensions are variable and at least 70 mm long or in diameter. The silk thread deposition area comprises the entire upper surface of the substrate.

[0118] The silkworm is the caterpillar of the mulberry silkworm. (Bombyx husband).The support is configured to limit the silkworm's progress. It is horizontally fixed to a lifting device, which is a rod held in a base, for example, a rectangular base. The rod and base can be made of any material, and are typically metal or wood. Any suitable method of attaching the support to the rod will work; typically, the attachment is made using adhesive paper or a sticky adhesive putty (such as Patafix®). The area where the rod is attached to the support could provide a point of attachment for the silk, but since this area is located below the support, the silkworm cannot reach it and therefore cannot form a cocoon. Examples of supports with lifting devices used in the process are shown in the illustrations. Figures 17 , 18 And 22 . Methods

[0119] The caterpillar of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx husband)is fed with white mulberry leaves (Morus alba) for 30 days. Raising the caterpillar to the stage of development where it secretes slime is a classic sericulture technique, well known to those in the field. The process is carried out at 22°C, under uniform lighting and with an ambient humidity of approximately 30%.

[0120] One or more silkworms are collected and simultaneously deposited onto the substrate while they are secreting silk. They are removed from the substrate once they have finished secreting all their silk. The number of silkworms deposited is adjusted according to the desired sheet thickness. The number of silkworms deposited simultaneously on the substrate depends on the dimensions of the substrate and the desired silk thickness, but it is typically 400 silkworms / m², or 4 silkworms / dm². The time required for the desired amount of natural silk to be deposited on the substrate surface, or for the silkworm to have secreted all its silk, is then allowed to pass. At this point, the silkworm is removed from the resulting natural silk nonwoven fabric. Optionally, the resulting natural silk nonwoven fabric is separated from the substrate surface. Results

[0121] Each silkworm moves across the substrate and deposits its natural silk saliva. This dries in a few seconds. Illustrations of this step in the process are shown. Figures 18 and Figure 19 . There Figure 19This illustrates the fact that two silkworms can simultaneously deposit their silk on the substrate without hindering or enveloping each other. Because the silkworm's progress is limited by the presence of an empty space in front of it, it is forced to change direction regularly and move across the substrate's surface, this movement being confined to the substrate's surface. The silkworm thus moves back and forth across the substrate, depositing its thread over its entire surface. Generally, the silkworm stops before falling off the substrate. However, it can happen that a silkworm fails to stop when it reaches the edge of the substrate and falls off. It is then picked up and placed back on the substrate's surface. The silkworm then continues depositing its silk on the substrate.

[0122] A sheet of non-woven natural silk textile is obtained using this process. Examples of sheets obtained by this process are listed in the Table 2. Table 2 Leaf Towards silk Duration Shape Dimensions (mm) E (mm) M(g) NV NG NT T (h) #1 Disk 0,3 0,163 1 1 1 72 Diameter: 70 #2 Square 0,3 0,172 1 1 1 72 Side: 75 #3 Rectangle 0,3 4,129 12 2 24 144 Length: 420 Width: 297 #4 Hemisphere 0,3 0,289 2 1 2 72 Diameter: 75 #5 Sphere 0,3 0,606 2 2 4 144 Diameter: 75 #6 Square 1,2 0,688 1 5 5 150 Side: 75 E: thickness of the sheet (mm) measured at the center of the sheet; M: total mass of the sheet (g); NV: number of silkworms in a group of worms deposited simultaneously on the surface; NG: number of groups of silkworms deposited on the surface; NT: total number of silkworms used for the manufacture of the sheet.

[0123] The average mass of natural silk produced by a Bombyx mori silkworm is 0.172 g. Example 5: Manufacturing articles comprising at least two sheets

[0124] According to a variant of the process described in Example 4, an article is manufactured by the following process, schematically represented on the Figure 20 .

[0125] A first sheet is produced following the previously described process. This sheet is then detached, and a second sheet is produced in the same way and left in place on the support. One edge of each of the two sheets is then slightly moistened, causing a partial dissolution of the sericin. The two edges are immediately brought into contact, and the drying of the sericin secures the two sheets together at one edge. Silkworms are then placed on the support and deposit silk that will permanently join the two sheets together at the edge. It is also possible to join the sheets while the production of the second sheet is still underway, in which case the silkworms will simultaneously produce the second sheet and join it to the first.By repeating these steps several times, an article comprising at least two leaves permanently joined together by natural silk is obtained.

[0126] The process shown on the Figure 20 allows, in particular, the manufacture of a parallelepiped-shaped article comprising five sheets of natural silk forming five faces of a parallelepiped, such as the article shown Figure 9 . Example 6: Manufacturing a sheet of three-dimensional spherical shape

[0127] According to a variant of the process described in Example 4, an article is manufactured by the following process, shown schematically Figure 21 .

[0128] The support is a sphere or pseudosphere. Because they move in such a way as to avoid falling, the silkworms will only deposit their saliva on the highest surface of the support. Once the desired thickness of natural silk has been deposited, the support is detached from the lifting device and oriented so that the uncovered portion of the support becomes the highest point. It is not necessary to remove the silkworms from the support during its movement. The silkworm(s) will continue to deposit their saliva on the upper surface of the support, and thus, through successive repositioning of the support, it is possible to cover the entire surface with natural silk. The resulting sheet has no protruding edge around its perimeter.

[0129] In the embodiment shown Figure 21 ,The support is an inflatable balloon, and a small area containing a deflation device (for example, a nozzle) is not covered with natural silk. By activating the deflation device, it is then possible to deflate the support and extract it from the three-dimensional spherical or pseudo-spherical sheet.

[0130] According to another possible embodiment, the support is solid and is not removed after the leaf has been made. A spherical or pseudo-spherical article comprising a support partially or completely covered with a sheet of natural silk is thus obtained. Example 7: Set of supports

[0131] According to a variant of the process described in Example 4, a set of supports represented Figure 22 is used.

[0132] The supports are configured so that a silkworm that falls from its support lands on another support within the system, instead of falling to the ground. This system of supports is advantageous because it reduces the number of interventions required to keep the silkworms on the surface of the support where they need to deposit their saliva. A tray is also placed beneath the system of supports, allowing for the collection of any silkworms that may have fallen from support to support along the entire height of the system.

Claims

1. A method of manufacturing a nonwoven natural silk textile, comprising the following steps: (a) rearing a silkworm; (b) taking the silkworm at a time when it secretes natural silk; (c) depositing it on a surface of a substrate, the substrate being raised, preferably using a tube, a column or a rod, wherein: the surface of the substrate does not contain rough areas with a size greater than 3 mm, preferably greater than 1 mm, more preferentially greater than 0.5 mm, still more preferentially greater than 0.1 mm; the surface of the substrate does not contain recesses with a width greater than 1.5 cm, preferably greater than 1 cm, more preferentially greater than 5 mm, still more preferentially greater than 1 mm; and the surface and / or the substrate is configured so as to limit the progression of the silkworm; (d) waiting the time required for the desired quantity of natural silk to be deposited on the surface of the substrate, or for the silkworm to have secreted all its silk; (e) removing the silkworm from the nonwoven natural silk textile obtained; and (f) optionally, separating the nonwoven natural silk textile obtained from the surface of the substrate.

2. The manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that the surface of the substrate is of a two-dimensional shape; preferably the surface of the substrate is an oval, a disk, a polygon, or a combination thereof.

3. The manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that the surface of the substrate is partially or entirely of a three-dimensional shape, preferably of convex shape.

4. The manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the surface of the substrate comprises no rough areas and / or no recesses.

5. The manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the substrate comprises no rough areas of size greater than 3 mm up to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferentially 25 mm, still more preferentially 50 mm, from the surface of the substrate and / or in that the substrate comprises no recesses of length greater than 1.5 cm up to a distance of 1 mm, preferably 5 mm, more preferentially 25 mm, still more preferentially 50 mm, from the surface of the substrate.

6. The manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the nonwoven natural silk textile is a sheet.