USE OF A NEPHELIUM LAPPACEUM EXTRACT TO INCREASE THE FIRMNESS OF THE SKIN AND / OR MUCOUS MEMBRANES

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics and dermatology, in particular the novel cosmetic and / or dermatological use of a plant extract Nephelium lappaceum to increase the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0002] Collagen is a major constituent protein of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and is present in large quantities in vertebrate tissues. It belongs to a superfamily of 29 distinct members, including fibrillar collagens. Type I collagen is the best-known example, but type V collagen is also a fibrillar collagen. Type V collagen is found in the same tissues as type I collagen and is known to help assemble heterogeneous fibers composed of these two types of collagen. They therefore ensure the maintenance of structures and give tissues their mechanical strength. Thus, in the dermis, it contributes to the firmness of these tissues, and therefore to the firmness of the skin.

[0003] During the intrinsic aging of tissues, particularly the dermis and epidermis, collagen expression decreases, leading to sagging of these tissues and therefore a loss of skin tone and firmness. Various extrinsic factors are also responsible for loss of firmness in the skin and / or mucous membranes, including aggressive environmental agents such as UV radiation, pollution, and tobacco smoke. Other intrinsic factors can also cause disorganization of collagen fibers and a decrease in firmness, including hormonal fluctuations and changes in tension in the skin and / or mucous membranes (rapid weight gain or loss).

[0004] Fibrillin-1, also a protein synthesized by fibroblasts, is a constituent of the extracellular matrix (ECM) in the dermis. It participates in the formation of elastic fibers made of elastin. Like collagen, the expression of this protein decreases with skin aging and / or due to other intrinsic factors, particularly hormonal ones, and extrinsic factors, notably environmental ones, leading to a loss of elasticity in the skin tissue.

[0005] Another protein involved in the formation of elastic fibers is LOX-L (Lysyl oxidase-like). This enzyme cross-links tropoelastin, which is then deposited on the microfibrils. Like collagen and fibrillin-1, its expression decreases over time in the skin and mucous membranes.

[0006] Finally, we should mention the CYR61 (Cysteine ​​rich angiogenic inducer 61) protein, which regulates certain ECM syntheses; fibulin-5, a constituent of elastic fibers; and Emilin-1, an ECM glycoprotein associated with elastic fibers. The formation and correct arrangement of elastic fibers depend on their expression levels.

[0007] These proteins, collagen I, collagen V, fibrillin-1, CYR61, Emilin-1, fibulin-5 and LOX-L, are therefore prime targets in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, fields in constant demand for alternative active ingredients to combat the loss of firmness and / or elasticity.

[0008] In a particularly surprising way, the inventors discovered that an extract of the plant Nephelium lappaceumIt has the property of increasing the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of type I and / or type V collagen, in the skin and mucous membranes, but also of increasing the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of fibrillin-1, LOX-L, fibulin-5 and Emilin-1.

[0009] The extract according to the invention is an extract of the plant N. lappaceum. This tree, also called rambutan, is found in Southeast Asia, particularly in Malaysia and Indonesia. It grows to a height of 10 to 20 meters and produces a large quantity of fruit. This edible fruit is known for its organoleptic properties and contains significant amounts of sugars, vitamin C, and iron. Decoctions of the roots or dried leaves have also been used to treat fever.

[0010] The plant from which the extract according to the invention is prepared originates from Vietnam. The extract according to the invention has the advantage of being effective on several types of collagen: type I and type V collagen. The extract therefore increases the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of type I collagen, while also increasing the expression of other ECM components such as type V collagen or decreasing the expression of CYR61. Another advantage of the extract according to the invention is that it increases the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of fibrillin-1, as well as LOX-L, fibulin-5, and Emilin-1. This extract thus targets several types of ECM proteins, making it a comprehensive cosmetic and / or dermatological ingredient.

[0011] The extract according to the invention also has the advantage of being an easily formulatable ingredient that can be readily manufactured on an industrial scale. It is a topically acceptable active ingredient for the skin and mucous membranes and does not present a risk of allergy.

[0012] A commercial body gel with a firming effect, containing 10 plant extracts, including an extract of N. lappaceum, has been described. However, the active ingredient for firmness is a pepper extract containing capsaicin, and no firmness activity, specifically chosen from firmness, anti-cellulite activity, and slimming activity, is associated with the extract of N. lappaceum.

[0013] Application KR20060007083 describes a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of N. lappaceum, said composition being used as a skin-whitening agent.

[0014] Extracts of the plant prepared by extraction in various solvents, including ethanol, have been described for their free radical scavenging activity in application WO2008066370. Similarly, application JP2002145730 discloses several effects, including a moisturizing and antioxidant effect of the plant's seeds. N. lappaceum.

[0015] Lourith et al. (2017, Anais da Academia Brasileira de Ciencias, 89, 577-589) also describe extracts of lychee pericarp ( Chinese lychee ) and of N. lappaceum as possessing anti-collagenase activity. But nowhere in this document is the use of an extract of N. lappaceum to increase skin firmness, nor to increase the expression of type I or V collagen in particular. There is also no mention of a leaf extract of N. lappaceum. Furthermore, this document reports the preferential use of lychee extract in anti-aging cosmetic products, rather than the extract of N. lappaceum.

[0016] Ariffin Nor Hazwani et al. (Biotechnology and bioprocess engineering, Korean Society for Biotechnology and Bioengineering, Seoul, KR, vol. 21, no.3, July 22, 2016, pages 337-354 ) This article focuses on the role of Asian plants as skin-protecting agents. It specifically reveals the healing and anti-infective effects of an aqueous extract of rambutan leaves.

[0017] Finally, application KR20090056521 describes an extract of N. lappaceum and lychee ( Chinese lychee ) in a cosmetic skin composition, possessing an anti-wrinkle effect and inhibiting collagen degradation by metalloproteinases (MMPs), particularly MMP-1. However, this prior art does not describe an effect of increasing protein and / or gene expression of type I or V collagen by an extract of N. lappaceum,in particular by a leaf extract. Nor is any effect of this extract on increasing skin firmness disclosed in this patent application. Furthermore, it describes an inhibitory effect on proteinases responsible for collagen degradation, but not an increase in the expression of type I or type V collagen in particular. Thus, to the applicant's knowledge, no document describes the use of an extract of the plant N. lappaceum to increase the firmness or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes, nor to increase the expression of type I and type V collagen, fibulin-1, Emilin-1, LOX-L and / or fibrillin, and / or decrease the expression of CYR61, in the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0018] The invention is as defined in the claims.

[0019] Thus, the invention relates, according to a first object, to the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceumto increase the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0020] According to a second object, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceum to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes. In the context of this invention, a distinction is made between an effect on firmness and an effect on the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes. Firmness is closely linked to the density of the extracellular matrix, particularly, but not exclusively, to collagen expression. Elasticity is linked to the formation and assembly of elastic fibers, in which the proteins fibrillin-1, LOX-L, fibulin-5, and Emilin-1 participate.

[0021] For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetic use" means non-therapeutic use, that is, use intended to be applied to all or part of an area of ​​healthy, non-pathological skin or mucous membrane. "Area of ​​healthy skin and / or mucous membrane" means an area of ​​skin and / or mucous membrane to which the extract according to the invention is applied and which a dermatologist would classify as "non-pathological," that is, free from infection, scarring, disease, or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne, or dermatitis, or from wounds or injuries and / or other dermatoses.

[0022] The extract according to the invention can be applied to all or part of the skin of the body and / or face where increased firmness and / or elasticity is desired, preferably the legs, thighs, arms, abdomen, décolleté, neck, all or part of the face, preferably the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, lip contour, eye contour, and the so-called "T-shaped" area of ​​the face. For the purposes of this invention, skin includes the scalp.

[0023] For the purposes of this invention, "collagen" means type I, III, IV, V, VI, VII, XII, XIII, XIV, XVI, XVII, XVIII, XXIV and / or XXIX collagen present in the skin and / or mucous membranes. Preferably, according to the invention, this refers to type I and / or V collagen, and even more preferably, type I collagen.

[0024] Furthermore, the term "fibrillin" refers to fibrillin-1, fibrillin-2 and / or fibrillin-3, preferentially fibrillin-1 present in the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0025] The excerpt from N. lappaceum The ingredient according to the invention is a topically acceptable ingredient. "Topically acceptable" means an ingredient suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin and / or mucous membranes, not inducing an allergic response, and not chemically unstable. The extract according to the present invention may be used orally or topically. Advantageously, it is used topically. "Topical" means the direct local application and / or spraying of the ingredient onto the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0026] The term "mucous membrane" refers to the ocular mucous membrane, the vaginal mucous membrane, the urogenital mucous membrane, the anal mucous membrane, the nasal mucous membrane and / or the oral, labial and / or gingival mucous membrane, preferentially the labial and / or oral mucous membranes.

[0027] For the purposes of this invention, "increasing the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes" means an increase in firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes of at least 1%, preferably at least 3%, and advantageously at least 5% in the presence of an extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, this involves a measured increase in alive, preferentially on human facial skin. Again, preferentially, this increase in the firmness of human facial skin is measured after application of a cream containing an extract of leaves of N. lappaceum,preferably present at a quantity of 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. Alternatively, the leaf extract will be present at a quantity of 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. In this case, it will be an extract prepared in water under subcritical conditions as described in Example 1e).

[0028] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cream is applied to one side of the face of a population of 30 women aged 55 to 65 years, and the increase in firmness is measured after 28 and 56 days of daily application of said cream, compared to the application under the same conditions of a placebo cream that does not contain the leaf extract of N. lappaceum.

[0029] The measure in aliveFirmness can be assessed using conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, in particular by measurement with a cutometer, a Tonoderm™, a DynaSKIN® combined with a dermaTOP, or via a device called the SkinFibroMeter (Delfin). In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, firmness is evaluated by measuring the volume distribution of the skin subjected to deformation under pressure by the SkinFibroMeter, thus allowing for the assessment of the skin's biomechanical properties.

[0030] Furthermore, "increasing the elasticity" of the skin and / or mucous membranes is understood to mean an increase in measured elasticity in person,of at least 2%, advantageously at least 4%, and even more advantageously at least 6% in the presence of the extract according to the invention, compared to the elasticity detected in the absence of the extract. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, this measurement is performed on human facial skin. Even more preferably, the increase in the elasticity of human facial skin is measured in the presence of a cream comprising an extract of leaves of N. lappaceum, advantageously present at a quantity of 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. Alternatively, the leaf extract shall be present at a quantity of 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. In this case, it shall be an extract prepared in water under subcritical conditions as described in Example 1e).

[0031] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cream is applied to one side of the face of a population of 30 women aged 55 to 65 years, and elasticity is measured after 28 and 56 days of daily application of said cream, in comparison to the application under the same conditions of a placebo cream that does not contain the leaf extract. of N. lappaceum. Elasticity can be measured using a ballistometer, corneometer, or cutometer. In an advantageous embodiment, it will be measured by cutometry, a technique that measures the mechanical deformation of skin subjected to suction.

[0032] The so-called fringe projection method will allow us to measure in personwrinkles. Thus, within the scope of the present invention, "reducing wrinkles" means a reduction of at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1%, and even more preferably at least 2% of fine lines in the presence of the extract according to the invention, compared to the level of fine lines measured in the absence of the extract. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, this measurement is performed on human facial skin. Even more preferably, the reduction of fine lines on human facial skin is measured in the presence of a cream comprising an extract of leaves of N. lappaceum, advantageously present at a quantity of 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. Alternatively, the leaf extract shall be present at a quantity of 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream. In this case, it shall be an extract prepared in water under subcritical conditions as described in Example 1e).

[0033] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cream is applied to one side of the face of a population of 30 women aged 55 to 65 years, and the measurement of fine lines is carried out after 28 and 56 days of daily application of said cream, in comparison to the application under the same conditions of a placebo cream that does not contain the leaf extract of N. lappaceum.

[0034] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract from N. lappaceum is not combined with any plant extract L. chinensis. In particular, the extract according to the invention is preferably not combined with a fruit extract of L. chinensis.

[0035] Similarly, the extract according to the invention is preferably not combined with capsaicin (CAS number 404-86-4; molar mass 305.418 g / mol) or any plant extract containing it. In particular, the extract according to the invention is not combined with a fruit extract from any plant species of the genus Capsicum containing capsaicin.

[0036] One object of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceum to increase the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes, by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of type I collagen, type V collagen, Emilin-1, fibulin-5, fibrillin, preferably fibrillin-1, and / or LOX-L, and / or by decreasing the expression of CYR61.

[0037] In particular, an object of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceumto increase the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of type I and / or type V collagen and / or decreasing the expression of CYR61. Another specific object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceum to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes, by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of Emilin-1, fibulin-5, fibrillin, preferentially fibrillin-1, and / or LOX-L.

[0038] In the context of the invention, "gene augmentation" means an increase in mRNAs encoding the protein of interest.

[0039] For the purposes of this invention, "increasing collagen gene and / or protein expression" means increasing collagen protein and / or gene expression by at least 4%, preferably by at least 20%, even more preferably by at least 50%, advantageously by at least 100%, and most advantageously by at least 400%, in the presence of the extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention, compared to the protein and / or gene expression of collagen detected in the absence of the extract.

[0040] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, collagen expression is the protein expression of type I and / or V collagen, more preferably type I collagen. Preferably, said expression is measured in human fibroblasts described as normal, i.e., non-pathological, more preferably in the presence of an extract of N. lappaceumaccording to the invention, advantageously in the presence of extract 1a) or extract 1e).

[0041] Preferably, protein expression of type I and / or V collagen is measured by immunohistochemical technique using an anti-collagen antibody as described in the conditions of Example 2.

[0042] In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, an extract of leaves of N. lappaceum is used to increase the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing gene and / or protein expression, preferentially protein, of type I and / or V collagen, preferentially type I.

[0043] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, an extract of leaves of N. lappaceum is used to increase the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes by decreasing gene and / or protein expression, preferentially protein expression of CYR61.

[0044] The term "decreasing the gene and / or protein expression of CYR61" means a decrease in gene and / or protein expression of at least 4%, preferably at least 15%, and even more preferably at least 30% in the presence of the extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention, compared to the level of protein and / or gene expression of CYR61 detected in the absence of the extract. In an advantageous embodiment, this involves a decrease in the protein expression of CYR61, advantageously measured in normal, i.e., non-pathological, human fibroblasts, and even more preferably measured in the presence of an extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention, most advantageously in the presence of extract 1a) or 1e), under the conditions described in example 5.

[0045] Furthermore, "increasing fibrillin gene and / or protein expression" means increasing fibrillin protein and / or gene expression by at least 30%, preferably by at least 50%, even more preferably by at least 100%, advantageously by at least 150%, and most advantageously by at least 200% in the presence of the extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention, compared to the level of fibrillin protein and / or gene expression detected in the absence of the extract. In an advantageous embodiment, this involves an increase in fibrillin-1 protein expression, advantageously measured in normal, i.e., non-pathological, human fibroblasts, and even more preferably measured in the presence of an extract of N. lappaceum, advantageously in the presence of extract 1a) or extract 1e), under the conditions described in example 4.

[0046] Thus, according to the invention, the extract of N. lappaceumis used to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes, by increasing the expression of fibrillin, advantageously fibrillin-1.

[0047] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the extract from N. lappaceum is used to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of LOX-L. For the purposes of this invention, "increasing the gene and / or protein expression of LOX-L" means an increase of at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least 10%, and most preferably at least 15%, in the gene and / or protein expression of LOX-L in the presence of the extract of N. lappaceumaccording to the invention, compared to the level of LOX-L protein and / or gene expression detected in the absence of the extract. In an advantageous embodiment, this involves an increase in LOX-L protein expression, advantageously measured in normal, i.e., non-pathological, human fibroblasts, or even preferably measured in the presence of an extract of N. lappaceum According to the invention, most advantageously in the presence of extract 1a) or 1e). In another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extract increases the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of fibulin-5. For the purposes of this invention, "increasing the gene and / or protein expression of fibulin-5" means an increase of at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, more preferably at least 10%, and most preferably at least 15% of the gene and / or protein expression of fibulin-5 in the presence of the extract. N. lappaceum according to the invention, compared to the level of fibulin-5 protein and / or gene expression detected in the absence of the extract. In an advantageous embodiment, this involves an increase in fibulin-5 protein expression, advantageously measured in normal, i.e., non-pathological, human fibroblasts, further preferably measured in the presence of an extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention, very advantageously in the presence of extract 1a) or 1e).

[0048] In yet another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extract increases the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of Emilin-1. For the purposes of this invention, "increasing the gene and / or protein expression of Emilin-1" means an increase in the protein and / or gene expression of Emilin-1 of at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least 10%, and most preferably at least 15% in the presence of the extract. N. lappaceum according to the invention, compared to the level of protein and / or gene expression of Emilin-1 detected in the absence of the extract. In an advantageous embodiment, this involves an increase in the protein expression of Emilin-1, advantageously measured in normal, i.e., non-pathological, human fibroblasts, further preferably measured in the presence of an extract of N. lappaceumaccording to the invention, very advantageously in the presence of extract 1a) or 1e).

[0049] One object of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of an extract of N. lappaceum to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of fibrillin-1, LOX-L, fibulin-5, and / or Emilin-1. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, an extract of leaves and / or branches and / or bark and / or stem and / or seeds, preferably leaves, of N. lappaceum is used to increase gene and / or protein expression of fibrillin-1, LOX-L, fibulin-5 and / or Emilin-1, preferentially fibrillin-1, again preferentially fibrillin-1 protein expression, to increase skin and / or mucous membrane elasticity.

[0050] The extract, as described, may be all or part of the plant. N. lappaceumThe extract is chosen from the bark, leaves, branches, stem, whole fruit, fruit pulp, seeds, pericarp, and root. Preferably, as described, the extract is an extract of leaves and / or seeds and / or pulp and / or branches. According to the invention, the extract is a leaf extract. The whole plant or the relevant part of the plant is preferably dried and / or ground before extraction.

[0051] For the purposes of this invention, "pulp" means the fruit without the pericarp and without the seed. "Pericarp" means the outer covering of the fruit, also called the shell. "Bark" means the bark of the tree and / or its branches. Thus, "branch" means both the wood and the bark. "Seed" means the seed without the pulp.

[0052] The extract can be obtained by various extraction methods known to those skilled in the art, including maceration, hot decoction, grinding (including ultrasonic grinding), grinding with a blender, or extraction in water under subcritical conditions. Preferably, the extraction is carried out by maceration. In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the extraction is performed in water under subcritical conditions. Advantageously, the extraction is not carried out under supercritical conditions (CO2). The extraction can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 4°C to 300°C, including ambient temperature, i.e., 20°C. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out at a temperature of 60°C to 90°C, preferably from 70°C to 85°C, and even more preferably at 80°C.

[0053] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out at a temperature of 4°C to 25°C, more preferably from 4°C to 20°C, more advantageously at room temperature, i.e. at 20°C.

[0054] In yet another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out in water under subcritical conditions, at a temperature ranging from 100°C to 374°C, advantageously from 120°C to 250°C, and further advantageously at 120°C. The extraction may be carried out at a single given temperature or at successively increasing temperatures. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out sequentially at three increasing temperatures of 120°C, 140°C, and 160°C.

[0055] Extraction under "subcritical conditions" means extraction in the presence of water, under temperature conditions above 100°C and pressure below 221 bars, such that the water remains in a liquid state but has a viscosity and surface tension lower than that of water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant.

[0056] Thus, the extraction pressure will be between 150 bars and 250 bars, preferably between 200 and 221 bars, advantageously in a pressure extraction autoclave.

[0057] The extraction can be carried out over a period of 30 minutes to 24 hours, preferably from 30 minutes to 12 hours, preferably from 1 to 5 hours, and advantageously from 1 to 2 hours. Most advantageously, the extraction will be carried out over a period of 1 hour.

[0058] The extract according to the invention can be obtained by extraction in a solvent or solvent mixture, preferably a protic polar solvent, and advantageously in water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol, water / glycol, or water / polyol mixture (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol, and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols such as xylitol and / or propanediol, etc.) from 99:1 to 1:99 (w / w), advantageously in water as the sole solvent. Thus, in a particular embodiment, the extract is a leaf extract prepared in water as the sole solvent.

[0059] In particular, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight, more particularly at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, even more advantageously not containing glycol and in particular not containing alcohol, more particularly containing only water.

[0060] In an alternative embodiment, the extract is obtained by extraction in a mixture of propanediol and water in respective proportions (80, 20; v / v).

[0061] In another alternative embodiment of the invention, the extraction may also be carried out in the presence of a non-ionic surfactant, preferably selected from lauryl glucoside marketed under the name Plantacare® < 1200UP by BASF or from caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® < 810UP), preferably caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® < 810UP). The weight concentration of the non-ionic surfactant may be between 0.5% and 5%, advantageously between 0.5% and 1%, and even more advantageously 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0062] The extract can be obtained by extracting a quantity of 0.1% to 10% by weight of fresh or dried material, preferably dried, from at least a part of the plant. N. lappaceumrelative to the total weight of the solvent / plant mixture (w / w). Preferably, the extract is obtained by extracting 1% to 10% by weight, advantageously 5% to 10%, and further advantageously 10% by weight of dry matter from at least a portion of the plant, relative to the total weight of the mixture consisting of the solvent, preferably water, and the plant (w / w). In a particular embodiment of the invention, the extract will be obtained from 10% by weight of at least a portion of the plant relative to the total weight of the solvent / plant mixture (w / w) and then concentrated to 20%. Preferably, according to the description, the plant portion will be the seeds.

[0063] Thus, in an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained by macerating 10% by weight of dried plant leaves in water as the sole solvent. N. lappaceumrelative to the total weight of leaves and water, at a temperature of 80°C, for a period of 1 hour, under the conditions described in Example 1a). The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged, and filtered. The extract obtained may optionally be dried and will be in powder form.

[0064] In another embodiment, the extract is obtained by maceration from a quantity of 5% by weight of dried leaves of the plant N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of leaves and water, at a temperature of 80°C, for a period of 1 hour, under the conditions described in example 1b). The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0065] In yet another embodiment of the description, the extract is obtained by maceration from a quantity of 10% by weight of dried branch of the plant N. lappaceumrelative to the total weight of branch and water, at room temperature (i.e., 20°C), over a period of 2 hours, under the conditions described in Example 1c). Advantageously, in this case, the extraction is carried out in the presence of a 1% weight concentration of caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® < 810 UP). The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged, and filtered.

[0066] In a fourth embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out by maceration using a quantity of 10% by weight of dried leaves of N. lappaceum in a propanediol / water mixture (80, 20; v / v) at a temperature of 80°C for a period of 1 hour, under the conditions described in example 1d). The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0067] In a fifth embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out by water extraction under subcritical conditions, of a quantity of 10% by weight of dried leaves of N. lappaceum in a pressure extraction autoclave at a temperature of 250°C and a pressure of 250 bar under the conditions described in Example 1e). The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged, and filtered. The resulting extract may optionally be dried.

[0068] In a sixth embodiment described, the extraction will be carried out by macerating 10% by weight of the fruit pulp relative to the total weight of pulp, with water as the sole solvent, at a temperature of 80°C for a period of 1 hour, under the conditions described in Example 1f). Alternatively, the pulp extraction may be carried out using 10% by weight of pulp in a propanediol / water mixture (80, 20; v / v) at a temperature of 80°C for a period of 1 hour. In yet another alternative embodiment, the pulp extraction may be carried out by extraction in water under subcritical conditions. The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged, and filtered.

[0069] In a seventh embodiment of the description, the extraction will be carried out by macerating 10% by weight of the seeds in water as the sole solvent at room temperature (20°C) for 2 hours, under the conditions described in Example 1g. Alternatively, the seed extraction may be carried out using 10% by weight of seeds in a propanediol / water mixture (80, 20; v / v) at 80°C for 1 hour. In yet another alternative embodiment, the seed extraction may be performed by extraction in water under subcritical conditions. The crude extract obtained is then decanted, centrifuged, and filtered.

[0070] The extract obtained and used according to the invention can then be centrifuged and / or filtered and / or distilled to recover the soluble fraction, preferably the water-soluble fraction. Preferably, the resulting supernatant is then filtered, advantageously at a cutoff point of 0.45 µm. Additional decolorization and / or deodorization steps can be performed on the extract at any stage of the extraction process, using techniques known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the extract may be decolorized with activated carbon.

[0071] The extract can then be concentrated by evaporation of the solvent or dried, for example by freeze-drying or spray-drying in the presence of maltodextrins. The extract will then be in powder form.

[0072] Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract obtained will be atomized in the presence of a concentration by weight of maltodextrins between 20% and 90%, preferably between 40% and 80%, and even more preferably between 70% and 80% relative to the total weight of the powder obtained.

[0073] In a particular embodiment of the invention, especially for its use in dermatology, the extract of N. lappaceum The resulting product is sterilized.

[0074] The extract can be used alone as a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient, or in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipient.

[0075] When used alone as a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient, it is preferably solubilized in and / or diluted in a solvent, particularly a polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol such as pentylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or hexylene glycol and / or caprylyl glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, and even more preferably containing a glycol selected from hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the extract obtained is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol, in particular containing between 0.1 and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.Advantageously, the extract obtained is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular containing between 0.01 and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol, preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. In particular, the aqueous solution in which the extract is solubilized... N. lappaceum according to the invention comprises xanthan gum, in particular between 0.01 and 5% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 0.1 and 1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.

[0076] Advantageously, the solution in which the extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention comprises hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and xanthan gum.

[0077] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the extract will be solubilized in an aqueous solution comprising glycerin at a concentration by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient of 50% to 85%, advantageously 60% to 80%, further advantageously 79%, biopropanediol at a concentration by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient of 5% to 20%, advantageously 10%, and water.

[0078] The extract may also be present in a cosmetic composition that also includes at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. "Acceptable" means a cosmetic or non-irritating excipient that does not induce an allergic reaction and is chemically stable.

[0079] One object of the present invention therefore relates to the use of the plant extract N. lappaceumaccording to the invention in a cosmetic composition to increase the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes, by increasing the gene and / or protein expression of type I and / or V collagen, preferably type I collagen, LOX-L, fibulin-5, Emilin-1 and / or fibrillin, preferably fibrillin-1, and / or by decreasing the expression of CYR61, at the level of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0080] The cosmetic composition includes the extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention can be applied, preferably topically, to all or part of the body and / or face where an increase in firmness and / or elasticity is desired, preferably the legs, thighs, arms, stomach, décolleté, neck, all or part of the face, preferably the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, lip contour, eye contour, the so-called "T-shaped" area of ​​the face.

[0081] In one embodiment of the invention, the extract is present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition at a concentration of 1 x 10⁻⁴ to 10%, preferably 1 x 10⁻⁴ to 5%, and even more preferably 1 x 10⁻³ to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The excipient(s) may be selected from surfactants and / or emulsifiers, preservatives, buffering agents, chelating agents, denaturing agents, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizing agents, thickening agents, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, mattifying agents, gloss-enhancing agents, pigments, colorants, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. The CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992)) describes various cosmetic excipients suitable for use in the present invention.

[0082] Advantageously, the excipient(s) are chosen from the group comprising polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gums, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxide, glycines, and parabens, and preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether,glycol stearate, triisononanoine, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, a dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxysterate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, a cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG-8, beeswax, Hydrogenated palm kernel oil glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low-density polyethylene, isotonic saline solution, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be selected from an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous or oily cream or gel, in particular a shower gel, a lotion, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone-based, a mask, a serum, a lotion, a liquid soap, a dermatological bar, an ointment, a mousse, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, paste or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, sticks or tablets, in particular in the form of lipstick. Advantageously, it is a cream or a serum.

[0084] The composition used according to the invention may further contain cosmetic active ingredients leading to a complementary or synergistic effect, such as anti-aging agents. These include agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules or prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate keratinocyte proliferation, soothing and moisturizing agents, and agents that regulate pore size and / or opening. Examples of anti-aging agents include: an agent stimulating fibronectin synthesis, in particular a corn extract, such an extract being marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Deliner™< and palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil®<; an agent stimulating collagen fiber formation such as an extract of 'Origanum marjoram'marketed under the name Dermagenist™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France. An agent that stimulates the expression of perlecan and dystroglycan in the extracellular matrix and / or in the epithelial basement membrane, such as an extract of Polygonum bistorta marketed under the name Perlaura™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France. An agent that protects the fibroblast growth factor 2 (FGF2) of the extracellular matrix against its degradation and / or denaturation, including an extract of 'Hibiscus abelmoscus'as described in the patent application filed on behalf of BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under number FR0654316 and marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Linefactor™< and / or a fibroblast growth stimulating agent, for example a fermented soy extract containing peptides, known as Phytokine™< marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France and also described in patent application EP1119344B1 (Laboratoires Expanscience), and preferably a combination of these two extracts; an agent stimulating laminin synthesis, in particular a biotechnologically modified malt extract, such an extract being marketed in particular by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Basaline™<; an agent stimulating the expression and / or activity of Hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2) such as the plant extracts described in patent application FR2893252 and in particular an aqueous extract of Galangal ( Alpinia galanga) and marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Hyalufix™; a lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) synthesis-stimulating agent such as an extract of Geophila cordifolia and those described in patent application FR2855968, and in particular a dill extract marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Lys'lastine™; an agent stimulating intracellular ATP synthesis, including an algae extract Laminaria digitata ; an active ingredient that stimulates glycosaminoglycan synthesis, such as a milk fermentation product; a collagen-stimulating active ingredient such as retinol and / or vitamin C; an active ingredient that inhibits metalloproteinases (MMPs), particularly MMPs 1, 2, 3, and 9, such as retinoids and derivatives, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, and leaf extract. 'Argania spinosa'marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS under the name Arganyl™; lycopene; isoflavones, quercetin, kaempferol, apigenin. A plumping agent, notably hyaluronic acid filling spheres marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France (Hyaluronic Filling Spheres™). An agent to increase LOX expression to enhance epidermal architecture, such as an extract of Chicory intybus marketed under the name LOX-AGE™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France, it is an agent to increase collagen deglycation and / or increase the expression of type I collagen, such as a combination of a leaf extract of Salvia miltiorrhizaand niacinamide marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name CollRepair™. A synthesis-stimulating agent for lumican and collagen, such as a synthetic tetrapeptide acetyl Gln Asp Val His, marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Dermican™ and described in patent application WO2005120554. An elastin and collagen-protecting and stimulating agent, such as leaf extract of Multi-nerve manilkara marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Elestan™ and the root extract of Eperuafalcata marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Eperuline™, an anti-pigmentation agent, notably through inhibition of melanin synthesis, such as the synergistic complex of extract of Pisum sativumand sucrose dilaurate marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Actiwhite™, or hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Radianskin™. A skin firming and elasticity stimulating agent such as an extract of Khaya senegalensis, marketed by the plaintiff under the name Collalift ®< 18.

[0085] Agents that stimulate keratinocyte proliferation, preferably usable in the composition according to the invention, include, in particular, retinoids such as retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate, and phloroglucinol. Agents that stimulate keratinocyte differentiation include, for example, minerals such as calcium and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, as well as extract of 'Achillea millefolium' marketed under the name Neurobiox ™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France.

[0086] As soothing agents preferably usable in the composition according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, omega-3 unsaturated oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone, anti-inflammatory agents, and in particular those described in application FR2847267, especially the root extract of Pueraria lobata marketed under the name Inhipase® by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS, the extracts of Theobroma cacao.

[0087] Among the agents active in regulating pore size and / or opening and / or sebum production, an extract of Cichorium intybusmarketed under the name LOX-AGE™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France, or synthetic sarcosine marketed under the name Mat-XS™ Clinical and / or an extract of Orthosiphon stamineus as described in patent application WO2010063674 on behalf of BASF Beauty Care Solutions France and marketed under the name MAT XS™< Bright.

[0088] As preferred moisturizing agents usable in the composition according to the invention, we can mention: a combination of pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and sodium alginate such as that marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name PatcH 2 O ™< .

[0089] Another object of the description relates to a cosmetic care process comprising the application, by topical or oral route, preferably by topical route, of the extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it to increase the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0090] Thus, the cosmetic treatment process as described is to increase gene and / or protein expression of type I and / or V collagen, preferably type I collagen, and / or decrease the expression of CYR61, at the level of the skin and / or mucous membranes to increase the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0091] Another aspect of the description concerns a cosmetic treatment process that includes the application, preferably topically, of the extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention or a cosmetic composition comprising it to increase the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes, by increasing gene and / or protein expression, of fibrillin, preferably fibrillin-1, LOX-L, fibulin-5, and / or Emilin-1, again preferably fibrillin-1, and advantageously protein, at the level of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0092] In one embodiment of the description, the method includes the topical application to all or part of the skin of the body and / or face where an increase in firmness and / or elasticity is desired, preferably the legs, thighs, arms, stomach, décolleté, neck, all or part of the face, preferably the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, lip contour, eye contour, the so-called "T-shaped" area of ​​the face, of the extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it.

[0093] Finally, another object of the present invention relates to the extract of N. lappaceumfor its use, by topical or oral route and preferably by topical route, alone or in a pharmaceutical composition, preferably dermatological including it, in the prevention and / or treatment of pathologies involving a loss of protein and / or gene expression of collagen, preferably of type I collagen and / or a pathological loss of firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes such as couperose, telangiectasias.

[0094] Finally, another object of the present invention relates to the extract of N. lappaceumfor its use, by topical or oral route and preferably by topical route, alone or in a pharmaceutical composition, preferably dermatological including it, in the prevention and / or treatment of pathologies involving a loss of protein and / or gene expression of fibrillin preferably of type I fibrillin and / or a pathological loss of elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes such as solar elastosis, cutix laxa disease and / or stretch marks.

[0095] In one embodiment of the invention, the extract is included in the dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising at least one dermatologically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient, at a concentration of 1.10-4<% to 10%, preferably 1.10-4<% to 5%, and even more preferably 1.10-3<% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] Examples referring to the description of the invention are given below. These examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and shall not in any way limit the scope of the invention. Each example is general in scope. The examples form an integral part of the present invention, and any feature that appears new compared to any prior art, as derived from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, forms an integral part of the invention. EXAMPLES: Example 1: Preparation of different extracts of N. lappaceum according to the invention

[0097] Example 1a) The extract was obtained by macerating 10% by weight of dried plant leaves in water as the sole solvent. N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of leaves and water as the sole solvent, at a temperature of 80°C, for a period of 1 hour. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged, and then filtered. This extract may then be dried if desired.

[0098] Example 1b) The extract was obtained by maceration from a quantity of 5% by weight of plant leaves. N. lappaceum compared to the total weight of dried leaves and water as the sole solvent, at a temperature of 80°C, for a period of 1 hour. The crude extract was centrifuged and then filtered.

[0099] Comparative example 1c) The extract was obtained by maceration from a quantity of 10% by weight of dried branches of the plant N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the branches and water as the sole solvent, at room temperature, i.e., at a temperature of 20°C, for a period of 2 hours in the presence of a 1% weight concentration of caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® < 810 UP). The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged, and then filtered.

[0100] The extracts obtained in examples 1a) to 1c) were then concentrated by evaporation of the solvent and spray-dried in the presence of maltodextrins. These extracts are in powder form.

[0101] Example 1d) The extraction was carried out by maceration using 10% by weight of dried leaves of N. lappaceum in a propanediol / water mixture (80, 20; v / v) at a temperature of 80°C for a period of 1 hour. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0102] Example 1e) The extraction was carried out using a quantity of 10% by weight of dried leaves of N. lappaceum in water under subcritical conditions, in a pressure extraction autoclave, at a temperature of 250°C, under a pressure of 250 bars. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0103] Comparative example 1f)The extraction was carried out by maceration in water as the sole solvent, using a quantity of 10% by weight of fruit pulp. N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the pulp and water, at a temperature of 80°C for a period of 1 hour. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered.

[0104] Comparative example (1g) The extraction was carried out by macerating 10% of the seeds by weight relative to the total weight of the seeds and water in water as the sole solvent, at room temperature (20°C) for a period of 2 hours. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged, and then filtered.

[0105] Comparative example (1 hour) The extract was obtained by maceration from a quantity of 10% by weight of dried branch of the plant N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of branch and water as the sole solvent, at a temperature of 80°C, for a period of 1 hour. The crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and then filtered. Example 2: Increased expression of type I collagen in the presence of different extracts of N. lappaceum according to the invention.

[0106] Protocol Human fibroblasts, described as "normal" (i.e., without pathology), from a healthy 34-year-old donor, were cultured in a defined medium (FGM) for 48 hours in the presence of two different final concentrations of various extracts of N. lappaceum The cell culture medium was then removed. The same culture medium without the addition of the extract according to the invention was used as a control. The resulting cell mat was lysed with an ammonium hydroxide solution.

[0107] Type I collagen was measured using a lysate obtained with an anti-collagen I antibody at 500 ng / mL in a buffer solution (PBS). After 60 minutes, a secondary antibody at 40 ng / mL was applied for another 60 minutes. After washing, a detection solution was added, and fluorescence was measured (ENVision, PerkinElmer). The fluorescence results were normalized to the fluorescence obtained with the same cell culture medium in the absence of the extract. N. lappaceum (Control) and were reported to the amount of DNA obtained in each condition. The results presented correspond to the mean of 6 trials (n=6). (SD: Standard deviation). Results :

[0108] Table 1 MOY AND Control 100 14 Extract from leaves of N. lappaceum to 1% (w / v medium prepared according to ex. 1a) 290 72 Extract from seeds of N. lappaceum to 10% (w / v medium) prepared according to example (1g) 103 5 Extract from branch of N. lappaceum to 10% (w / v medium) prepared according to example (1 hour) 94 10 Pulp extract of N. lappaceum to 10% (w / v medium) according to ex. 1f) 95 8 Conclusion : leaf extract N. lappaceum increased type I collagen protein expression by at least 104% and up to 686% in the analyzed fibroblasts. Example 3) Increased expression of type V collagen in the presence of different extracts of N. lappaceum

[0109] Protocol Human fibroblasts, described as "normal" (i.e., without pathology), from a healthy 34-year-old donor, were cultured in a defined medium (FGM) for a period of 48 hours in the presence of different final concentrations of various extracts of N. lappaceumthen the cell culture medium was removed. The same culture medium without the addition of the extract according to the invention was used as a control. The resulting cell mat was lysed with an ammonium hydroxide solution, and then type V collagen was quantified using an anti-collagen V antibody diluted 1 / 4000 in a buffer solution (PBS). After 60 minutes, a secondary antibody diluted 1 / 25000 was applied for another 60 minutes. After washing, a detection solution was added, and fluorescence was measured (ENVision, PerkinElmer). The fluorescence results were normalized to the fluorescence obtained with the same cell culture medium in the absence of the extract. N. lappaceum (Control) and were reported to the amount of DNA obtained in each condition. The results presented correspond to the mean of 3 trials (n=3) (SD: Standard deviation). Results :

[0110] Table 2 MOY AND Control 100 5 Extract from leaves of N. lappaceum 1% (w / v medium) prepared according to ex. 1a) 231 39 Extract from branch of N. lappaceum 0.1% (w / v medium) prepared according to ex. 1c) 176 24 Extract from seeds of N. lappaceum 1% (w / v medium) prepared according to example (1g) 134 25 Pulp extract of N. lappaceum 0.5% (w / v medium) prepared according to example 1f) 131 10 Conclusion : excerpts from N. lappaceum increased type V collagen protein expression by at least 4% and up to at least 400% in the normal fibroblasts analyzed, demonstrating their properties for increasing skin and mucous membrane firmness. Example 4: Increased expression of fibrillin-1 in the presence of different extracts of N. lappaceum

[0111] Protocol: Human fibroblasts, considered normal (i.e., without pathology), from a healthy 34-year-old donor, were cultured in a defined medium (FGM) for a period of 48 hours in the presence of two different final concentrations of the extract of N. lappaceumThe cell culture medium was then removed. The same culture medium without added extract was used as a control. Cells were then harvested and lysed with a specific lysis buffer for immunolocalization (Western blot). Protein concentration was determined by the BCA method. Proteins were identified by capillary electrophoresis (ProteinSimple, USA) using an anti-fibrillin primary antibody and immunolocalized using a peroxidase-conjugated secondary antibody. The results were quantified using Compass Software (version 2.7.1 (ProteinSimple)). Results:

[0112] Table 3 MOY AND Control 100 9 Extract from leaves of N. lappaceum 1% (w / v medium) prepared according to example 1a) 239 56 Extract from branches N. lappaceum 0.1% (w / v medium) prepared according to example 1c) 148 1 Seed extract N. lappaceum 1% (w / v medium) prepared according to example 1g) 272 95 Pulp extract of N. lappaceum 0.5% (w / v medium) prepared according to example 1f) 166 18 Conclusion : the results showed an increase of at least 30% and up to at least 200% in fibrillin-1 protein expression in normal human fibroblasts, showing its ability to increase the elasticity of skin and / or mucous membranes. Example 5: Decrease in CYR61 protein expression in the presence of an extract of N. lappaceum

[0113] ProtocolHuman fibroblasts, described as "normal" (i.e., without pathology), from a healthy 34-year-old donor, were cultured in a defined medium (FGM) for 48 hours in the presence of different final concentrations of extracts of N. lappaceumThe cell culture medium was then removed. The same culture medium without the addition of the extract according to the invention was used as a control. The culture supernatants were then collected for analysis. Protein concentration was determined by BCA (BiCinchoninic acid assay). Protein expression was measured by Western blot (n = 4) (SallySue®, ProteinSimple®). The protein of interest, CYR61, was detected by capillary electrophoresis (AbCam antibody (ab24448)e diluted 1 / 50) and then visualized with a secondary antibody coupled to horseradish peroxidase and a chemiluminescent substrate. The chemiluminescent signal was then detected and quantified (Compass® version 2.7.1 (ProteinSimple®)). Results :

[0114] The results are expressed as relative percentages with respect to the level of CYR61 protein expression in untreated fibroblast supernatants (Control). Table 4 MOY AND Control 100 7,8 Dried extract of leaves of N. lappaceum prepared according to example 1a) (4×10 -3< p / v medium) 79,4 8,2 Dried extract of leaves of N. lappaceum prepared according to example 1a) (8×10 -3< p / v medium) 52,4 7,9

[0115] Conclusion : leaf extract N. lappaceum has shown its ability to decrease the protein expression of CYR61. The extract is therefore active on the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes. Example 6: Example of a cosmetic ingredient

[0116] The quantities indicated are as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient. Example 6a)

[0117] Excerpt from N. lappaceum Ex. 1a) to 1e) 1-20% (w / w) Maltodextrins 80-99% (w / w) Example 6b) Excerpt from N. lappaceum Ex. 1a) to 1e) 1% Glycerin 79% Biopropanediol 10% Water 10% Example 7 Examples of cosmetic compositions

[0118] The compositions below are prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art, particularly with regard to the different phases to be mixed together.

[0119] *The cosmetic ingredient is prepared according to example 6 above. The quantities indicated are percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7a) Cosmetic ingredient* 0,2-0,3 EDTA 0,05 Steareth-2 2,00 Steareth-21 2,50 Cetearyl alcohol 1,00 Propylheptyl caprylate 15,00 Sodium hydroxide (30% in solution) 0,10 Mixture of phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid, butylene glycol, sorbic acid (Germazide™< PBS) 1,25 Mixture of polyacrylate-X, isohexadecane and polysorbate 60 (Sepigel™ < SMS 60) 4,00 Water Qsp 100 7b) Cosmetic ingredient* 0,2-0,3 EDTA 0,05 Steareth-2 2,00 Steareth-21 2,50 Cetearyl alcohol 1,00 Propylheptyl caprylate 15,00 Sodium hydroxide (30% in solution) 0,10 Mixture of phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid, butylene glycol, sorbic acid (Germazide™< PBS) 1,25 Mixture of polyacrylate-X, isohexadecane and polysorbate 60 (Sepigel™ < SMS 60) 4,00 Water Qsp 100 7c)

[0120] The mixture of the different phases A, B, C, and D below is prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art, resulting in a composition according to the present invention. The proportions are expressed as percentages. Phase A Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 Stearate 4,00 Pentaerythrityl distearate 1,50 Cetearyl Isononanoate 3,00 Propylheptyl caprylate 5,00 Coco caprylate 2,00 Dicaprylyl carbonate 3,00 Dimethicone 1,00 Phase B Water 64,43 Propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, methylparaben 1,00 Glycerin 1,57 Xanthan gum 0,20 Butylene glycol 2,00 Sodium hydroxide, water 0,15 Phase C Carbomer 0,15 Water 10 Phase D Excerpt from N. lappaceum obtained according to example 6a) 1,00

Claims

1. The cosmetic use of a Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract for increasing the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

2. The use of the extract as claimed in claim 1, for increasing the elasticity of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

3. The use of the extract as claimed in claim 1, for increasing the firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

4. The use of the extract as claimed in any one of claims 1 and 3 to 4, such that the extract increases type I and / or type V collagen, preferably type I collagen, gene and / or protein expression.

5. The use of the extract as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 2 and 4, such that the extract increases LOX-L, fibulin-5, emilin-1 and / or fibrillin-1, preferentially fibrillin-1, gene and / or protein expression, more preferentially fibrillin-1 protein expression.

6. The use of the extract as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5, such that the extract is obtained in a solvent or a mixture of solvents, such as water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol, water / glycol or water / polyol mixture (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols such as xylitol and / or propanediol), from 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / w), advantageously in water as sole solvent, more preferentially in water under subcritical conditions.

7. The use of the extract as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, such that the extract is spray-dried in the presence of a concentration by weight of maltodextrins of between 20% and 90%, preferentially between 40% and 80%, more preferentially from 70% to 80% relative to the total weight of the powder obtained.

8. The use of the extract as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the extract is applied to all or part of the body, preferentially the legs, thighs, arms, stomach, bust and / or neck; and / or all or part of the face, preferentially the cheeks, forehead, chin, lips, area around the lips, area around the eyes, and / or the "T" zone of the face.

9. The use of the extract as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the extract is suitable for topical application.

10. The use as claimed in claim 1, for preventing and / or treating stretch marks.

11. A Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract for topical or oral use thereof, alone or in a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it, in the prevention and / or treatment of pathological conditions involving a loss of collagen protein and / or gene expression, preferentially type I collagen protein and / or gene expression, and / or a pathological loss of firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes, chosen from rosacea and telangiectasia.

12. A Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract for topical or oral use thereof, alone or in a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it, in the prevention and / or treatment of pathological conditions involving a pathological loss of elasticity, chosen from solar elastosis and / or cutis laxa.