Cosmetic active ingredient obtained from the bioconversion of its original substrate by Lactobacillus arizonnensis, manufacturing process, composition containing it and its uses

Description

technical field

[0001] The invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising a supernatant of Lactobacillus arizonensis obtained by bioconversion by this bacterium of its original substrate. The invention also relates to the process of obtaining such an active ingredient, the cosmetic compositions including it, as well as the cosmetic uses of this active ingredient and these compositions. State of the art

[0002] Dry skin is a common condition affecting men and women equally. It is accompanied by various symptoms, including discomfort (tightness, itching), excessive flaking, and the appearance of unsightly irregularities (patches, cracking, etc.). Arms and hands are areas particularly prone to this type of problem.

[0003] The epidermis, the outermost layer of skin, is responsible for hydration. Its ability to prevent dehydration depends on various factors, including: Its composition in proteins (filaggrin) and lipids; the establishment of intercellular junctions (claudin, desmoglein) to obtain a cohesive structure.

[0004] It is during the process of epidermal differentiation that the protein and lipid skeletons are synthesized. The keratinocytes of the basal layer of the epidermis initiate a maturation mechanism resulting in migration towards the skin's surface. This stage is accompanied by a profound restructuring of the cellular structure, the formation of an impermeable lipid cement, and a protein scaffold that confers robustness and resistance to the epidermis. Beyond the mechanical properties it provides, filaggrin, an essential component of the protein scaffold, actively participates in skin hydration due to its role as a precursor to the formation of natural moisturizing factors. The successful completion of the differentiation process results in the establishment of a barrier function that ensures the skin's "water capital."Constantly subjected to environmental assaults, the functionality of this barrier is maintained through its continuous renewal.

[0005] For many years, skin research has focused on the mechanisms involved in the proper functioning of the epidermis. Among the most recent approaches, the influence of the skin microbiota on the integrity of the skin barrier has been the subject of several studies. Thus, in dermatology, probiotics have been described for their ability to improve certain disorders such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis, but currently there is no product that is satisfactory for regulating the skin microbiota, improving the renewal of the epidermal barrier, and activating innate immune defenses.

[0006] Thus, the objective of the invention is to meet this need by offering a cosmetic active ingredient that, when applied to healthy skin: respects the skin microbiota, i.e. does not affect the diversity and distribution of bacterial communities, increases the integrity of the epidermal barrier, in particular by improving the synthesis of the protein framework, promoting the cohesion of the epidermis and optimizing the formation of the lipid cement, activates the renewal of the skin barrier, in particular by increasing the rate of epidermal renewal, optimizes immunity, in particular by improving the skin's immune barrier.

[0007] To address this, the invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient obtained by bioconversion by Lactobacillus arizonensis from its original substrate, Simmondsia chinensis. Summary of the invention

[0008] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic postbiotic.

[0009] Over the past decade, scientists have made significant progress in understanding the role of the gut microbiota in our health. Most of this research has focused on the intestines. These studies have led, on the one hand, to a better understanding of the evolution of the microbiota in various physiological and pathological contexts, and on the other hand, to the emergence of new therapeutic strategies. Several approaches have thus emerged, giving rise to the concept of probiotics. Probiotics are defined as live microorganisms whose administration in adequate quantities confers health benefits. For a long time, the effect of these bacteria on health was considered inseparable from their viability. However, this theory now seems to be evolving in favor of the concept of postbiotics, which refers to the bioactive metabolites produced by probiotics.

[0010] The influence of postbiotics on skin quality has not been described and surprisingly, according to the invention, a cosmetic active ingredient obtained by bioconversion by at least one lactobacillus of at least one of the substrates of said lactobacillus, i.e. a postbiotic consisting of bioactive metabolites produced by lactobacilli cultured in the presence of their natural substrates, has a cosmetic effect on healthy skin, in particular a moisturizing effect on the skin.

[0011] The invention specifically relates to a cosmetic active ingredient characterized in that it is the product obtained by bioconversion by Lactobacillus arizonensis of Simmondsia chinensis, Lactobacillus arizonensis being a bacterium that is isolated from Simmondsia chinensis, Simmondsia chinensis constituting its original substrate.

[0012] The invention also relates to a method for obtaining such an active ingredient as well as compositions comprising at least 0.1% by weight of such an active ingredient.

[0013] The active ingredient according to the invention and the compositions containing it are particularly useful for cosmetic applications on healthy skin to improve skin appearance, specifically to enhance skin radiance and / or increase skin luminosity and / or increase skin hydration. Thus, another object of the invention is the cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to the invention or a composition containing it, as well as a cosmetic treatment method for healthy skin. Other features of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows. Detailed description of the invention Definitions

[0014] For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetic active ingredient" or "active ingredient" means at least one molecule, preferably a set of molecules having a cosmetic effect on the skin, that is to say having an effect on skin cells.

[0015] “Bioconversion” in the sense of the invention means the transformation of plant molecules into one or more other molecules through the action of living organisms, such as a lactobacillus.

[0016] For the purposes of this invention, "original substrate of a lactobacillus" means the plant on which the lactobacillus was isolated and identified. Cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention

[0017] The invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient characterized in that it is the product obtained by bioconversion by Lactobacillus arizonensis of the original substrate of said lactobacillus.

[0018] Preferably, the invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient characterized in that it is the product obtained by bioconversion of Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) by Lactobacillus arizonensis. Indeed, by using an extract of Simmondsia chinensis as a substrate of Lactobacillus arizonensis, It is possible to have biomimicry that closely resembles the natural environment of Lactobacillus arizonensis.

[0019] Preferably, the active ingredient is obtained from the supernatant obtained by bioconversion by Lactobacillus arizonensis of Simmondsia chinensis, that is to say that the active ingredient is constituted in whole or in part by the supernatant, preferably filtered, obtained by bioconversion by Lactobacillus arizonensis of Simmondsia chinensis.

[0020] The bacterium's ability to produce postbiotics depends on its metabolism. Therefore, calibrating a fundamental parameter—the nature of the nutrient supply—is crucial. The invention thus consists of enriching the culture medium of Lactobacillus (in particular, with Lactobacillus arizonenzis ) with an extract of one of its original substrates (in particular jojoba or Simmondsia chinensis For Lactobacillus arizonenzis), in order to replicate its natural environment and encourage it to produce the metabolites necessary for its survival and adaptation. Advantageously, the metabolites produced by this strain have a cosmetic effect on healthy skin and, in particular, can help treat dry skin in healthy skin.

[0021] The active ingredient according to the invention preferably comprises sugars. The total sugar (carbohydrate) content of the active ingredient can be determined by the Dubois method (Dubois M. et al., Analytical Chemistry, 28, 3, 350-356, 1956). The total sugar content of the active ingredient is expressed as a percentage of dry matter. The active ingredient contains between 1 and 5% sugars by weight of dry matter.

[0022] The simple sugar composition of the carbohydrate fraction of the active ingredient is determined by ionic liquid chromatography and the size of the molar masses by HPLC with RI detection. It is preferentially composed of glucose, fructose and galactose.

[0023] These saccharides are preferentially made up of molecules with a molar mass ranging from 360 to 13860 Da.

[0024] Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention comprises at least one cyclic polyol, and even more preferably it comprises at least Pinnitol. Cyclic polyols, and in particular Pinnitol, contribute to the cosmetic activity of the active ingredient according to the invention. The content of cyclic polyols, and in particular Pinnitol, is preferably measured by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry, using a calibration curve with a standard: commercial D-Pinnitol, measured between 1 and 1000 ppm.

[0025] In addition to cyclic polyols and / or sugars, the active ingredient according to the invention may comprise other molecules. In particular, it may comprise mineral ash and / or proteins.

[0026] The mineral ash content can be determined by weighing the residues from the incineration of samples of the active ingredient according to the invention at 550°C in an electric muffle furnace. Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention has an ash content of between 24 and 33% by weight of dry matter of the active ingredient. The protein content can be determined by the Lowry method (Lowry et al., Protein measurement with the folin reagent, J. Biol. Chem., 193, 265, 1951) or by the determination of total nitrogen according to the Kjeldhal method (reference: Official method of analysis of the AOC, 12th ed. W. Horwitz, ED, New York, 15-60, 1975). Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention has a protein content of between 5 and 13% by weight of dry matter, preferably determined by the Kjeldhal method.

[0027] The lactic acid content can be determined by ion-liquid chromatography using a calibration curve prepared from a commercial standard. Lactic acid is in the form of sodium lactate when the pH of the solution containing it is greater than its pKa of 3.8. Thus, preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention has a pH of 5.4 and a sodium lactate content between 52 and 85%.

[0028] The active ingredient according to the invention may be in liquid form. In this case, it may be supplemented by at least one stabilizer and / or a preservative.

[0029] Preferably, when in liquid form, the dry matter content of the active ingredient according to the invention is between 50 and 150 g / l, preferably between 70 and 105 g / l. The liquid form preferably contains 1 to 5% sugars, 52 to 85% sodium lactate, 24 to 33% mineral ash, and 5 to 13% protein, the percentages being given by weight of dry matter. In liquid form, it may be beige to yellow in color. However, it can be decolorized using conventional techniques in the field.

[0030] The active ingredient according to the invention can be in solid form, particularly as a powder. In this case, it preferably consists of the product of the bioconversion of the substrate by the lactobacillus according to the invention and a carrier such as, for example, maltodextrin. Preferably, the bioconversion product represents 10 to 50% by weight of the active ingredient and the carrier 50 to 90%. The powder form therefore preferably contains 50 to 91% sugars, 5 to 43% sodium lactate, 2 to 17% ash, and 0.5 to 6.5% protein, the percentages being given by weight of the active ingredient including the maltodextrin carrier. Method for obtaining the active ingredient according to the invention

[0031] The active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by any type of bioconversion process of at least one substrate by Lactobacillus arizonensis.

[0032] According to a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a method for obtaining an active ingredient according to the invention, comprising the implementation of the following steps: Culture of Lactobacillus arizonensis, in a culture medium supplemented with Simmondsia chinensis, Stopping the culture by thermal inactivation. Separation of the biomass from the supernatant by all techniques known to those skilled in the art, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation, preferably filtration of the supernatant to obtain a liquid comprising the postbiotic metabolites constituting the active principle according to the invention.

[0033] The process according to the invention may also include a purification step and / or a bleaching step and / or a deodorizing step.

[0034] Some steps of the processes described above, taken individually, are common in the field of extracting active ingredients from natural raw materials and a person skilled in the art is able to adjust the reaction parameters based on their general knowledge.

[0035] The active ingredient can then possibly be combined with a carrier and dried with or without a carrier (spray drying or freeze-drying in particular), to take solid form.

[0036] A culture medium is defined as any medium containing at least the nutrients necessary for the growth and multiplication of lactobacilli. Those skilled in the art know that a suitable culture medium includes carbohydrate nutrients, preferably in the form of oligosaccharides, nitrogenous nutrients, preferably provided as peptides by a yeast extract, and a supply of salts necessary for the buffering capacity of the medium. For example, the culture medium could be that described in the publication (De MAN, JC, ROGOSA, M. and SHARPE, ME (1960)). Cosmetic use

[0037] The active ingredient according to the invention is particularly effective for cosmetic treatment on healthy skin, therefore a non-therapeutic treatment.

[0038] In particular, the active ingredient according to the invention exhibits an effective action, alone or in a cosmetic composition, on healthy skin to improve skin appearance. The invention therefore relates to the cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition containing it on healthy skin, to improve skin appearance.

[0039] The active ingredient according to the invention is capable of regulating the skin microbiota, improving the integrity and renewal of the epidermal barrier, activating innate immune defenses, and reducing inflammation and abnormal epidermal proliferation: Respect for the microbiota: the application of an active ingredient according to the invention to the skin has no effect on the diversity and distribution of bacterial communities, reflecting the neutrality of the active ingredient with respect to the skin flora. Increased integrity of the epidermal barrier: the active ingredient according to the invention activates the mechanisms inherent in establishing an effective barrier function. It improves the synthesis of the protein framework (notably filaggrin), promotes epidermal cohesion (notably claudin-4 and desmoglein-1), and optimizes the formation of the lipid cement (expression of lipid synthesis enzymes GBA, ABCA12, and FASN, in particular). This action results in a 71% improvement in barrier function. This effect has also been observed in volunteers. Activated barrier renewal: the rate of epidermal renewal is accelerated by the application of the active ingredient according to the invention.Optimized immunity: The active ingredient according to the invention improves the immune barrier, notably by increasing the expression of the danger receptor TLR2 and the antimicrobial peptide HBD2. Reduced inflammation and abnormal epidermal proliferation: The active ingredient according to the invention reduces the secretion of IL-17 by T helper lymphocytes.

[0040] The invention therefore also relates to the specific cosmetic use of the active ingredient as described in this application for: regulate the balance of the skin flora, and / or strengthen the integrity of the skin barrier, and / or activate epidermal renewal, and / or boost innate immune defenses.

[0041] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention can be used for: to improve skin radiance, and / or increase skin luminosity, and / or increase skin hydration.

[0042] Advantageously, the active principle according to the invention makes it possible to increase the quality of skin suffering from dryness by acting on the different levers responsible for epidermal homeostasis: hydration is improved and the radiance of the complexion is revived, and this on different areas of the body (hand and face in particular).

[0043] Thanks to its postbiotic action, the active ingredient according to the invention improves the integrity and renewal of the epidermal barrier while respecting the balance of the microbial flora. Cosmetic composition

[0044] The active ingredient according to the invention is preferably used in compositions comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium. These are compositions in various dosage forms, suitable for topical application to the skin.

[0045] These compositions can take the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (water / oil / water or oil / water / oil), which may include microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or solutions, suspensions, hydrodispersions, aqueous gels, or powders. They can vary in viscosity and have the appearance of creams, emulsions, gels, or any other form characteristic of skincare cosmetics.

[0046] These may be compositions comprising at least 0.1% of the liquid active ingredient according to the invention, preferably between 0.5 and 10% or at least 0.02% of the solid active ingredient according to the invention, preferably between 0.1% and 2%.

[0047] These compositions include, in addition to the active ingredient, a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable environment, that is to say, one which does not cause unacceptable sensations of discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.

[0048] The compositions according to the invention may contain as an adjuvant at least one compound selected from: oils, which may be chosen in particular from among silicone oils, linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile; waxes, such as ozokerite, polyethylene wax, beeswax or carnauba wax, silicone elastomers, surfactants, preferably emulsifiers, whether non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, co-surfactants, such as linear fatty alcohols, thickeners and / or gelling agents, humectants, such as polyols like glycerin, colorants, preservatives, fillers, tensors, sequestrants, perfumes, and mixtures thereof, without this list being exhaustive.

[0049] Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by the Personal Care Product Council).

[0050] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or inactive, and their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0051] These compositions are specifically intended for use on healthy skin, particularly dry and / or dull healthy skin, to improve skin radiance and / or increase skin luminosity and / or increase skin hydration.

[0052] The invention also relates to a cosmetic (non-therapeutic) process, namely a cosmetic process for treating healthy skin to improve the beauty of the skin, and in particular to improve the radiance of the skin and / or increase the radiance of the skin and / or increase the hydration of the skin, which consists of the topical application on healthy skin of a composition comprising an active ingredient according to the invention.

[0053] Preferably, the composition comprising the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention is applied at least once a day for at least 15 days.

[0054] To illustrate these cosmetic effects on skin quality, particularly on skin properties, the following examples and test results are presented below. Examples Example 1: Active ingredient according to the invention

[0055] The active ingredient in example 1 is obtained from the bacterium Lactobacillus arizonensis and jojoba extract Simmondsia chinensis.

[0056] Preparation of jojoba extract: A jojoba press cake extract is prepared by enzymatic hydrolysis of jojoba press cake previously dissolved in water. This substrate of origin... L. arizonensis is added in a form that the bacteria can assimilate.

[0057] Culture instructions: For bacterial growth, the culture medium is similar to that described as MRS vegetable sold by Biokar Diagnostics. Jojoba extract is added to this culture medium.

[0058] The strain of L. arizonensis It is therefore cultured in the culture medium described above. The seeding is adapted in volume and growth time to the size of the bioreactor used.

[0059] The culture is carried out under conditions suitable for the strain. The pH is maintained during growth by adding sodium hydroxide.

[0060] Growth is monitored by measuring absorbance, adding sodium hydroxide, and consuming glucose.

[0061] At harvest, the culture is thermally inactivated for 30 minutes at 80°C, then centrifuged to separate biomass and supernatant.

[0062] The supernatant is used as the active ingredient after filtration and sterilizing filtration.

[0063] The active ingredient obtained by bioconversion has the following analytical characteristics: The dry matter content is 80 g / L. The carbohydrate content is 3.4 g / L (determined by the Dubois method), representing 4% of the dry matter. The carbohydrate fraction is composed mainly (67%) of bound sugars containing glucose and galactose, and 33% of free fructose. The protein content is 9.9 g / L (determined by the Kjeldahl method), representing 12% of the dry matter. The protein fraction is composed of 65% oligopeptides ranging from 243 Da to 2000 Da. The ash content is 21.5 g / L (determined by weighing the residue from incinerating the sample at 550°C in an electric muffle furnace), representing 27% of the dry matter. The lactic acid content is 44.6 g / L, representing 56% of the dry matter. A pinnitol content of 500 ppm. A pH of 5.4. Example 2: Active ingredient according to the invention in solid form

[0064] The active ingredient according to example 2 is obtained from the bacterium Lactobacillus arizonensis in the same way as for example 1. After recovery of the supernatant, it is decolorized, deodorized, concentrated, debacterized and atomized onto a 75% maltodextrin support.

[0065] The active ingredient obtained has the following analytical characteristics: A dry matter content of 970 mg / g. A carbohydrate content of 723 mg / g (determined by the Dubois method), representing 75% of dry matter. 16 mg / g of protein (determined by the Kjeldahl method), representing 2% of dry matter. 89 mg / g of ash (determined by weighing the residue from incinerating the sample at 550°C in an electric muffle furnace), representing 9% of dry matter. A lactic acid content of 131 mg / g, representing 14% of dry matter. A pinnitol content of 1584 ppm. A pH of 5.5. Example 3: Product outside the invention obtained with a substrate not specific to lactobacillus L. arizonensis (Extract from sunflower meal)

[0066] The product according to example 3 is obtained from the bacterium Lactobacillus arizonensis in the same way as for example 1 except that the Jojoba extract is replaced by a sunflower meal extract in identical quantities.

[0067] The resulting product has the following analytical characteristics: A dry matter content of 79.4 g / L. A carbohydrate content of 2.1 g / L (determined by the DUBOIS method), representing 3% of the dry matter. 11.6 g / L of protein by weight of dry matter (determined by the Kjeldahl method), representing 15%. 20.4 g / L of ash (determined by weighing the residue from incinerating the sample at 550°C in an electric muffle furnace), representing 26%. A lactic acid content of 44.5 g / L, representing 56% of the dry matter. A pH of 5.6. Example 4: Product outside the invention corresponding to the culture medium containing the jojoba extract.

[0068] The product according to example 4 corresponds to the culture medium of example 1 described above.

[0069] The product obtained has the following analytical characteristics A dry matter content of 36.6 g / L. A carbohydrate content of 8.1 g / L (determined by the DUBOIS method), representing 22% of dry matter. 19.0 g / L of protein by weight of dry matter (determined by the LOWRY method), representing 52% of dry matter. 9.5 g / L of ash (determined by weighing the residue from incinerating the sample at 550°C in an electric muffle furnace), representing 26% of dry matter. Example 5: Product outside the invention obtained in the absence of the specific substrate for lactobacilli (without jojoba)

[0070] The product according to example 5 is obtained from the bacterium Lactobacillus arizonensis in the same way as for example 1 except that the culture medium does not contain any Jojoba extract.

[0071] The active ingredient obtained has the following analytical characteristics: A dry matter content of 98.9 g / L. A carbohydrate content of 2.6 g / L (determined by the DUBOIS method), representing 3% of the dry matter. The carbohydrate fraction consists of 51% free fructose and 49% bound sugars containing glucose and galactose. 12.8 g / L of protein by weight of dry matter (determined by the LOWRY method), representing 13% of the dry matter. 15.8 g / L of ash (determined by weighing the residue from incinerating the sample at 550°C in an electric muffle furnace), representing 16% of the dry matter. A lactic acid content of 67 g / L, representing 68% of the dry matter. Example 6: Example of a complexion-enhancing skincare composition, a brightening treatment to gently reveal the skin's radiance

[0072] This example features a light, smoothing formula that provides an immediate healthy glow thanks to its pink and gold pearlescent pigments. Easy to apply, it absorbs quickly, leaving a soft, powdery finish.

[0073] Its formula is presented in Table 1. [Table 1] PHASE INGREDIENTS - INCI Supplier % A Aqua - Qsp 100 Glycerin - 2 Hydroxyethylcellulose Ashland / IMCD 0,5 B Disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate BASF 0,5 Glycol palmitate Seppic 2 C10-18 Triglycerides Dubois Stearinerie 1 Isopropyl myristate Dubois Stearinerie 5 Dimethicone Dow / Univar 2 Triheptanoin Seppic 5 C Butylene glycol - 10 Titanium dioxide & synthetic fluorphlogopite SunChemical / Maprecos 1,5 Titanium dioxide & synthetic fluorphlogopite SunChemical / Maprecos 1,5 D Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Clariant 0,75 E ACTIVE PRINCIPLE of example 2 Silab 1 F Citric acid - Qsp pH 5,0 - 5,5

[0074] The composition is obtained by implementing the following procedure: Place A under magnetic stirring and heat to 80°C. Place B under magnetic stirring and heat to 80°C. Under rotor-stator, emulsify B in A. At 40°C, under moderate stirring, add C, then D and E. Adjust the pH with F.

[0075] The composition is presented as a flexible emulsion, pearly white and glossy in color, pH= 5.2 with a Viscosity (B / 5rpm) = 20,000 cPs. Exemple 7 : Exemple de composition crème velours pour les mains

[0076] The composition of this example is a nourishing and regenerating hand cream. Quickly absorbed, it leaves a comfortable, non-greasy protective film.

[0077] The formula of the composition is presented in Table 2. [Table 2] PHASE INGREDIENTS - INCI Fournisseur % A Aqua - Qsp 100 Glycerin - 2 Butylene glycol - 3 Aqua & Sodium hydroxide - 0,3 B Cetearyl Alcohol & Dicetyl Phosphate & Ceteth-10 Phosphate Croda 5 PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate Croda 5 C12-15 alkyl benzoate Evonik / Adara 3 Dimethicone Dow / Univar 2 Simmondsia Chinensis Seedl Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Sophim 2 Cera alba Baerlocher 2 C Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisobutene & PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether Seppic 2 D PRINCIPE ACTIF de l'exemple 2 Silab 1

[0078] The composition is obtained by implementing the following procedure: Place A under magnetic stirring and heat to 80°C. Place B under magnetic stirring and heat to 80°C. Under rotor-stator, emulsify B in AA at 40°C, under moderate stirring, add C then D.

[0079] The composition is presented as a thick, white, glossy emulsion, with a pH of 6.0 - 6.3 and a viscosity (D / 5rpm) of 145,000 cPs. Exemple 8 : Exemple de composition sous forme de crème pour les pieds

[0080] This example features a comforting cream with a rich and smooth texture. Quickly absorbed, it leaves feet soft and supple without leaving a greasy residue.

[0081] The formula of the composition is presented in Table 3. [Table 3] PHASE INGREDIENTS - INCI Fournisseur % A Aqua - Qsp 100 Butylene glycol - 5 B Cetearyl alcohol & Ceteareth- Seppic 5 Isocetyl stearoyl stearate Stéarinerie Dubois 3 Caprylic capric triglycerides Stéarinerie Dubois 7 Coco-caprylate / caprate Stéarinerie Dubois 4 Dimethicone Dow / Univar 2 C Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisobutene Seppic 2 D PRINCIPE ACTIF exemple 1 Silab 2.5

[0082] The composition can be obtained by implementing the following procedure: Place A under magnetic stirring and heat to 80°C. Place B under magnetic stirring and heat to 80°C. Under rotor-stator, emulsify B in AA at 40°C, with moderate stirring, add C then D

[0083] The composition is presented as a thick, white and glossy emulsion, with a pH of 5.3 - 5.5 and a viscosity (D / 5rpm) of 100,000 - 110,000 cPs.

[0084] Example 9: Example of composition in the form of body lotion

[0085] This example contains a nourishing, lipid-replenishing, and protective body lotion. Easy to apply and quick to absorb, it leaves skin soft and silky all day long.

[0086] The formula of the composition according to the invention is presented in Table 4. [Table 4] PHASE INGREDIENTS - INCI Supplier % A1 Aqua - Qsp 100 Glycerin - 2 Butylene glycol - 5 Acacia senegal gum & xanthan gum Seppic 0,5 A2 Potassium cetyl phosphate DSM / IES 2 B Isocetyl stearoyl stearate Dubois Stearinerie 2 Coco-caprylate / caprate Dubois Stearinerie 5 Dimethicone Dow / Univar 2 Tocopherol & Heliantus Annus Seed Oil Masso 0.05 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Sophim 2 Cera alba Baerlocher 1 C Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 Seppic 1 D ACTIVE INGREDIENT Example 1 Silab 2.5

[0087] The composition can be obtained by implementing the following procedure: Place A1 under moderate stirring. Stir until homogenized. Add A2 to A1 under stirring. Heat to 80°C. Add A3 to A1+A2 under stirring. Place B under magnetic stirring and heat to 80°C. Under rotor-stator, emulsify B in A. At 40°C, under moderate stirring, add C then D.

[0088] The composition is presented as a soft, white, glossy emulsion, with a pH of 6.2 and a viscosity (B / 5rpm) of 16,000 cPs. Tests demonstrating the cosmetic effectiveness of the invention in vitro tests Effect of an active ingredient according to the invention on epidermal differentiation / cohesion

[0089] The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of an active ingredient according to the invention to maintain functional epidermal differentiation / cohesion by stimulating the synthesis of filaggrin, claudin-4 and desmoglein-1.

[0090] The skin barrier protects the body against external stresses, whether physical, chemical, or environmental. It also helps prevent dehydration by limiting the diffusion of water out of the body. A multitude of protein components are essential for establishing this barrier function, such as: Filaggrin plays a major role in the formation of the stratum corneum, the body's ultimate barrier against the external environment. It also ensures hydration thanks to amino acids produced by its proteolysis, which constitute a large part of the "natural moisturizing factors." Claudin is one of the main components of tight junctions: complex structures that establish a true intercellular barrier in the upper layers of the epidermis, limiting and regulating the passage of solutes into this space. Desmoglein-1 is an anchoring protein belonging to the desmosomal cadherin family. It ensures cohesion between adjacent keratinocytes, thus forming a transcellular network.

[0091] Two studies are carried out: a first study by immunohistofluorescence on reconstructed SlLABSKlN ®< RE normal epidermis subjected to water stress and a second study by immunolabeling on normal human keratinocytes subjected to a dry environment.

[0092] Study on reconstructed epidermis.

[0093] The operating protocol is described below. I. Culture and processing of SILABSKIN ®< RE:

[0094] On day 0: Normal human keratinocytes are seeded onto inserts and then incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2.

[0095] The culture medium is changed regularly.

[0096] After several days of culture: a water stress is applied (environment at 40% relative humidity) to induce dehydration. Reconstructed control epidermis are left in a saturated humidity environment (82% relative humidity). The SlLABSKlN ®< RE are treated for 24 hours topically with the active ingredient of example 1, at 0.25% and 0.50% (V / V).

[0097] After one day, the SlLABSKlN ®< RE are retrieved, fixed, dehydrated and embedded in paraffin. Sections are then made using a microtome. II. Analysis of the synthesis of filaggrin, claudin-4 and desmoglein-1 by immunohistofluorescence:

[0098] Using primary antibodies: * Anti-filaggrin antibody * Anti-claudin-4 antibody * Anti-desmoglein-1 antibody Secondary antibodies: coupled Alexa Fluor ®< 488 III. Reading of immunostaining:

[0099] The visualization is performed using a microscope coupled with an image analysis system.

[0100] The concentration of the different synthesized markers is proportional to the intensity of green fluorescence present on the reconstructed epidermis. A quantitative analysis of the images was performed using software. The results are expressed in arbitrary units (AU).

[0101] The results are given in Table 5 (Ability of an active ingredient according to the invention to restore the synthesis of filaggrin, claudin-4 and desmoglein-1 in SILABSKIN ®< RE subjected to water stress). [Table 5] Filaggrin (UA) synthesis Ability to restore filaggrin synthesis (%) Claudine-4 (UA) synthesis Ability to restore claudin-4 synthesis (%) Desmoglein-1 (UA) synthesis Ability to restore desmoglein-1 synthesis (%) SlLABSKlN ®< RE normal Witness 1144 213 648 Example 2 0.50% 1146 224 747 SILABSKIN ®< RE - water stress Witness 862 154 498 Example 2 0.25% 1067 73 185 53 644 97 Example 2 0.50% 1138 98 211 97 742 163

[0102] These results show that, when subjected to water stress, SILABSKIN®< RE exhibits altered epidermal differentiation and cohesion, characterized by a significant decrease in the synthesis of filaggrin, claudin-4, and desmoglein-1. Furthermore, it is observed that, when tested at 0.50% on this model, the active ingredient according to the invention is capable of significantly restoring the synthesis of: filaggrin: +98%; claudin-4: +97%; desmoglein-1: +163%.

[0103] Thus, the use of an active principle according to the invention makes it possible to restore the process of epidermal differentiation to obtain a cohesive structure.

[0104] The second study on keratinocytes compares the effects of the products from Examples 1 through 5. Specifically, their ability to restore filaggrin synthesis in human keratinocytes exposed to a dry environment is compared. This study was conducted using immunocytology on normal human keratinocytes exposed to a dry environment. The procedure was as follows: Normal human keratinocytes were seeded and incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2 for several days.

[0105] Next, the keratinocytes are either incubated at 37°C under 5% CO2 in an environment at 40% relative humidity to mimic a dry environment or are kept in a saturated humidity environment (82% relative humidity) in the presence or absence of the products of examples 1 to 5 or in the presence of a sodium lactate solution at 45g / L (pH5.4).

[0106] After 24 hours, immunolabeling is performed using a primary anti-filaggrin antibody and a secondary antibody coupled to Alexa Flor ®< 488.

[0107] The kernels are colored with a DAPI solution.

[0108] The visualization is performed using an IX 70 microscope (Olympus) coupled with an image analysis system (NIS-Elements software, Nikon).

[0109] The synthesized filaggrin is proportional to the intensity of green fluorescence present on the keratinocytes. A quantitative analysis of the images was performed using Matlab® software. The results are expressed in arbitrary units (AU) in Table 6 (Effect of the different examples on their ability to restore filaggrin synthesis in human keratinocytes subjected to water stress). [Table 6] Filaggrin (UA) synthesis Ability to restore filaggrin synthesis (%) normal keratinocytes Witness 3 524 Keratinocytes - water stress Witness 722 Example 1 at 0.5% 3839 111 Example 2 at 0.2% 3526 100 Example 3 at 0.5% 609 0 Example 4 at 0.5% 653 0 Example 5 at 0.5% 700 0 Sodium lactate (45g / L) at 0.5% 909 7

[0110] These results show that only the active principles according to the invention of examples 1 and 2 corresponding to the invention allow a restoration of filaggrin synthesis by human keratinocyte cultures subjected to water stress.

[0111] The product of Example 3, that is, the product resulting from the bioconversion of sunflower extract by lactobacillus, does not restore filaggrin synthesis. Therefore, the molecules acting on this synthesis are not present in the supernatant of lactobacillus culture grown in a culture medium supplemented with a substrate other than that of the lactobacillus in question.

[0112] The product of example 4, that is, the lactobacillus-specific culture medium, does not restore filaggrin synthesis. Therefore, the molecules acting on this synthesis are not present in the lactobacillus culture medium.

[0113] The product of Example 5, that is, the product obtained from culturing lactobacillus in the "classic" culture medium, does not restore filaggrin synthesis. Therefore, the molecules acting on this synthesis are not present in the supernatant of a lactobacillus culture in a "classic" culture medium.

[0114] The sodium lactate solution at the same concentration as in Example 1 does not restore filaggrin synthesis. Therefore, sodium lactate is not responsible for filaggrin synthesis in keratinocyte cultures. Effect of an active ingredient according to the invention on the major players in the synthesis and secretion of epidermal lipids

[0115] The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of an active ingredient according to the invention to restore the expression of various actors essential to the synthesis of epidermal lipids.

[0116] Intercellular lipids play a fundamental role in the skin barrier function. Primarily synthesized by keratinocytes, the lipid matrix has a specific composition and organization that ensures the impermeability of the stratum corneum by regulating the flow of electrolytes from the inside of the body to the outside and vice versa. Their synthesis and secretion involve various factors, including: β-Glucosylceramidase (GBA) is a lysosomal protein that catalyzes the production of ceramides: major lipids essential to the stratum corneum; fatty acid synthase (FASN) is an enzyme necessary for the synthesis of free fatty acids in the intercellular cement; ATP-binding cassette subfamily A member 12 (ABCA12) is a key molecule in the generation, transport, and secretion of lipids. It is also involved in keratinocyte differentiation.

[0117] This study was carried out by PCR on SILABSKIN ®< RE reconstructed epidermis, normal and subjected to water stress.

[0118] The operational protocol of the study is described as follows: Culture and treatment of SlLABSKlN ®< RE: initially, the reconstructed epidermis are cultured and treated. Normal human keratinocytes are seeded onto inserts and then incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2. The culture medium is changed regularly. After several days of culture, the SILABSKlN®<RE cells are either incubated at 37°C in an environment with 40% relative humidity for several hours to induce dehydration or left in a saturated humidity environment (82% relative humidity). Subsequently, the SILABSKlN®<RE cells are treated topically with the active ingredient from Example 1 at 0.25% and 0.50% (V / V).

[0119] Finally, the SlLABSKlN ®< RE are recovered and the total RNAs extracted. II. Analysis of GBA, FASN and ABCA12 expression by quantitative PCR:

[0120] The RNAs were reverse-transcribed, and the resulting complementary DNAs were analyzed by quantitative PCR. The mRNAs of the RPS18 and GUSB proteins, internal reference controls, were analyzed in parallel with the mRNAs of GBA, FASN, and ABCA12.

[0121] Fluorescence incorporation (SYBR Green) is continuously measured using a thermocycler. Ct analysis (relative quantification) is performed using software.

[0122] The results are given in Table 7 (Ability of an active ingredient according to the invention to restore the expression of ABCA12, GBA and FASN in SILABSKIN ®< RE subjected to water stress). [Table 7] Expression of ABCA12 (%) Ability to restore ABCA12 expression (%) GBA expression (%) Ability to restore GBA expression (%) FASN expression (%) Ability to restore FASN expression (%) SlLABSKlN ®< RE normal Witness 100 100 100 Example 1 at 0.50% 153 144 143 SILABSKIN ®< RE - water stress Witness 73 65 77 Example 1 at 0.25% 130 211 135 200 125 209 Example 1 at 0.50% 139 244 169 297 137 261

[0123] These results show that, when subjected to water stress, SILABSKIN®< RE exhibits a significant decrease in the synthesis enzymes and transport proteins of intercellular lipids. It is observed that, when tested at 0.50% on this model, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly restores the expression of: ABCA12: +244%; GBA: +297%; FASN: +261%.

[0124] By acting favorably on the major players in epidermal lipid biology, the active principle according to the invention activates the formation of lipid cement, an essential element for the formation of a functional barrier. Effect of an active ingredient according to the invention on the barrier function

[0125] The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of an active ingredient according to the invention to limit the Insensible Water Loss (IWL) of a SILABSKIN ®< RE reconstructed epidermis model subjected to water stress.

[0126] Insensible water loss (IWL) corresponds to the passive diffusion of water through the stratum corneum. Its measurement allows for the assessment of the integrity of the epidermal barrier function. When this function is impaired, the flow of water to the external environment intensifies, increasing the IWL value.

[0127] This study was carried out by measuring the PIE using a Tewameter ®< on normal SILABSKIN ®< RE reconstructed epidermis and under water stress.

[0128] The operating procedure is described as follows: I. Culture and treatment of SlLABSKlN ®< RE:

[0129] Normal human keratinocytes are seeded onto inserts and then incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2. The culture medium is changed regularly. After several days of culture, the SiLABSKlN®<RE cells are either incubated at 37°C under 5% CO2 in an environment with 40% relative humidity for several hours to induce dehydration, or left in a saturated humidity environment (82% relative humidity). Then, the SiLABSKlN®<RE cells are treated topically for 24 hours with the active ingredient from Example 1 at 0.25% and 0.50% (v / v). Finally, the SiLABSKlN®<RE cells are dried and incubated for one hour at room temperature.

[0130] The PIE measurement is carried out using a Tewameter ®< CM 820 (Courage & Khazaka).

[0131] The results are given in Table 8 (Capacity of an active ingredient according to the invention to limit the insensible water loss of SlLABSKlN ®< RE subjected to water stress). [Table 8] PIE (g / h / m²) Capacity to limit insensible water loss (%) SlLABSKlN ®< RE normal Witness 10,74 Example 2 at 0.50% 11,32 SILABSKIN ®< RE - water stress Witness 13,77 Example 2 at 0.25% 12,62 38% Example 2 at 0.50% 11,62 71%

[0132] When subjected to water stress, SlLABSKlN ®< RE exhibit a significant increase of 28% in insensible water loss.

[0133] Tested at 0.5% on this model, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly limits epidermal dehydration by 71%.

[0134] By maintaining a functional skin barrier, the active ingredient according to the invention limits the effects of epidermal dehydration. Effect of an active ingredient according to the invention on innate immune defenses

[0135] The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of an active ingredient according to the invention (example 1) to regulate the innate immune defenses of the skin. To this end, the expression of defensin 2 (HBD2) and Toll-like Receptor 2 (TLR2) was measured on a SILABSKIN®<RE reconstructed epidermis model under water stress.

[0136] One of the skin's main functions is to form an effective barrier against the pathogenic microbes it constantly encounters. Keratinocytes are the first line of defense in this immune barrier. They possess receptors, including TLR2, that allow them to detect and distinguish between resident microorganisms of the commensal flora and transient pathogenic microorganisms. To neutralize and eliminate these pathogens, keratinocytes synthesize antimicrobial peptides such as HBD2. These peptides are widely expressed by keratinocytes and are characterized by broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity.

[0137] This study was carried out by qPCR on SILABSKIN ®< RE reconstructed epidermis, normal and subjected to water stress.

[0138] The operating protocol is described below. I. Culture and processing of SILABSKIN ®< RE:

[0139] Normal human keratinocytes are seeded onto inserts and then incubated at 37°C. The culture medium is changed regularly. SILABSKIN®<RE are either incubated at 37°C under 5% CO2 in an environment of 40% relative humidity for several hours to induce dehydration or left in a saturated humidity environment (82% relative humidity).

[0140] Then, the SlLABSKlN ®< RE are treated topically for 24 hours with the active ingredient of example 1 at 0.25% and 0.50% (V / V) and either incubated at 37°C under 5% CO2 in an environment at 40% relative humidity or left in a saturated humidity environment (82% relative humidity). Finally, the SILABSKlN ®< RE are recovered and the total RNAs extracted. II. Analysis of HBD2 and TLR2 expression by quantitative PCR

[0141] The RNAs were reverse-transcribed, and the resulting complementary DNAs were analyzed by quantitative PCR. The mRNAs of the RPS18 and GUSB proteins, internal reference controls, were analyzed in parallel with the mRNAs of HBD2 and TLR2.

[0142] Fluorescence incorporation (SYBR Green) is continuously measured using a thermocycler. Ct analysis (relative quantification) is performed using software.

[0143] The results are given in Table 9 (Ability of an active ingredient according to the invention to restore the expression of HBD2 and TLR2 by SlLABSKlN ®< RE subjected to water stress). [Table 9] HBD2 expression (%) Ability to restore HBD2 expression (%) TLR2 expression (%) Ability to restore TLR2 expression (%) SlLABSKlN ®< RE normal Witness 100 100 Example 2 at 0.50% 113 144 SILABSKIN ®< RE - water stress Witness 43 67 Example 2 at 0.25% 62 33 128 185 Example 2 at 0.50% 100 100 147 242

[0144] These results show that, when subjected to water stress, SlLABSKlN ®< RE exhibit a significant decrease in innate antibacterial defenses. It is observed that, when tested at 0.50% on this model, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly restores the expression of: HBD2: +100%, TLR2: +242%

[0145] The use of an active ingredient according to the invention thus limits the deleterious effects of water stress on the cutaneous immune barrier. Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the secretion of IL-17 by TT helper 17 lymphocytes

[0146] Interleukin 17 (IL-17) is a cytokine produced by Th17 helper T lymphocytes that affects the biology of the epidermis. It causes inflammation and abnormal epidermal proliferation. In particular, IL-17 is implicated in psoriasis. This study was conducted to demonstrate the potential activity of the active ingredient according to the invention on the secretion of IL-17 by Th17L cells.

[0147] The protocol is as follows: Native T lymphocytes are isolated from peripheral blood mononuclear cells and cultured in a medium containing a mixture that allows their differentiation into Th17L. The cells are then incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2.

[0148] After several days, the culture medium is discarded and replaced with a medium containing a mixture allowing differentiation in the presence or absence of cyclosporine or the active ingredient according to example 2 at 0.1%.

[0149] After several hours, the supernatant is collected and frozen at -80°C.

[0150] IL-17 is measured by ELISA test.

[0151] The results are summarized in Table 10 below: [Table 10] IL-17 secretion (pg / mL) Ability to limit IL-17 secretion (%) Witness 1 497 Cyclosporine at 1 µg / mL 567 -62 Active ingredient example 2 at 0.1% 865 -42

[0152] When placed in a medium that induces their differentiation, native T lymphocytes differentiate into Th17L cells. This process leads to an increase in IL-17 production.

[0153] Tested at 0.1% on Th17 lymphocytes, the active ingredient according to the invention limits IL-17 secretion by 42%. Effect of an active ingredient according to the invention on the expression of dermal markers

[0154] The objective of this study is to evaluate the effect of the active ingredient according to example 1 to increase the expression of mRNA encoding the main collagens of the dermis: collagen I and collagen III, as well as the main collagens of the dermo-epidermal junction: collagen IV and collagen VII and for the enzyme HAS-2 (Hyaluronan synthase 2) involved in the synthesis of hyalyuronic acid.

[0155] This study was performed by PCR on normal human fibroblasts.

[0156] The operational protocol of the study is described as follows: I. Culture and treatment of fibroblasts:

[0157] Normal human fibroblasts are seeded in a culture medium and then incubated at 37°C in an atmosphere containing 5% CO2. Then, the fibroblasts are cultured in the presence or absence of the active ingredient from Example 1 at 0, 5% and 1% (V / V).

[0158] TGF-β at 10 ng / mL is used as a positive control. Finally, the fibroblasts are recovered and the total RNA is extracted. II. Analysis of the expression of Coll I, Coll III, Coll IV, Coll VII and HAS-2 by quantitative PCR:

[0159] The RNAs were reverse-transcribed, and the resulting complementary DNAs were analyzed by quantitative PCR. The mRNAs of the RPS18 protein, an internal reference control, were analyzed in parallel with the mRNAs of Coll I, Coll III, Coll IV, Coll VII, and HAS-2.

[0160] Fluorescence incorporation (SYBR Green) is continuously measured using a thermocycler. Ct analysis (relative quantification) is performed using software.

[0161] The results are given in Tables 11, 12 and 13 below. [Table 11] Collagen I Collagen III Expression (%) Efficacy / control (%) Expression (%) Efficacy / control (%) Witness 100 100 Example 1 at 0.5% 114 +14% 115 +15% Example 1 at 1.0% 122 +22% 130 +30% TGF-β 10 ng / mL 226 +126% 139 +39% [Table 12] Collagen IV Collagen VII Expression (%) Efficacy / control (%) Expression (%) Efficacy / control (%) Witness 100 100 Example 1 at 0.5% 114 +14% 107 +7% Example 1 at 1.0% 126 +26% 121 +21% TGF-β 10 ng / mL 318 +218% 334 +234% [Table 13] HAS-2 Expression (%) Efficacy / control (%) Witness 100 Example 1 at 0.5% 127 +27% Example 1 at 1.0% 134 +34% TGF-β 10 ng / mL 78

[0162] These results show that the active ingredient according to the invention significantly increases the expression of dermal markers. Specifically, the active ingredient according to the invention increases the expression of mRNA encoding collagen I by 22%, collagen III by 30%, collagen IV by 26%, collagen VII by 21%, and the expression of the enzyme HAS-2 (Hyaluronan synthase 2) by 34%. In vivo trials

[0163] The active ingredient in Example 2 was formulated as a single formula for all in vivo studies on Caucasian and Asian panels. The formula is described in Table 14. [Table 14] Isononyl isononanoate (Lanol ​​99, Seppic) 5,0 Behenyl Alcohol / Arachidyl glucoside / Arachidyl alcohol (Montanov 202, Seppic) 3,0 Active ingredient according to the invention - example 1 1 Cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside (Montanov 68, Seppic) 2,0 Conservatives 1,0 Polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth-7 (Sepigel 305, Seppic) 0,3 Water qsp 100 Effect of an active ingredient according to the invention on the skin microbiota

[0164] The objective of this study is to evaluate, in vivo, the effect of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 1% in emulsion on the skin microbiota, compared to placebo, after 28 days of application.

[0165] This study was conducted on 18 healthy Caucasian volunteers, aged 32 to 52 years (mean age 43 ± 6 years), with dry skin on their hands and face. The volunteers applied the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention and a placebo to half of their face, morning and evening.

[0166] The influence of the active ingredient according to the invention on the skin microbiota was measured by sequencing the V1-V2 variable regions of the gene encoding 16S ribosomal RNA (16S rDNA), common to all bacteria, using the MiSeq® system (Illumina). Sampling and analysis of the skin microbiota were performed on the forehead.

[0167] The parameters analyzed are: Alpha diversity reflects the diversity within the sample; taxonomy assesses the composition and distribution of bacterial communities in terms of relative abundance. In this case, the analysis was conducted at the genus level.

[0168] A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1% in emulsion, on the alpha-diversity of the skin microbiota, given by the Shannon index, on Caucasian volunteers is described as follows: [Table 15] J0 J28 Shannon Index 1,58 1,75

[0169] A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1% in emulsion, on the distribution of bacterial communities at the level of the 10 major genera, after 28 days of twice-daily application, is presented as follows: [Table 16] Relative abundance (%) J0 J28 Acinetobacter 0,9% 0,9% Anaerococcus 0,4% 0,7% Corynebacterium 4,9% 5,4% Cutibacterium 57,1% 54,1% Enhydrobacter 1,4% 2,2% Haemophilus 0,2% 0,4% Paracoccus 0,3% 0,4% Prevotella 0,3% 0,4% Staphylococcus 20,3% 20,7% Streptococcus 1,2% 1,4%

[0170] Under the conditions of this study, after 28 days of treatment, the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1%, does not disrupt the microbiota of skin suffering from dryness (no significant effect on the diversity, composition and distribution of the skin microbiota). Effect of an active ingredient according to the invention on the skin barrier

[0171] The objective of this study is to evaluate, in vivo, in comparison to placebo, the effect of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 1% in emulsion on the skin barrier. Caucasian panel:

[0172] Composed of 18 healthy volunteers, aged 32 to 52 years (mean age 43 ± 6 years), with dry skin on their hands and face, who applied morning and evening the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention and the placebo to half of their face. Asian panel:

[0173] Composed of 31 healthy volunteers, aged 20 to 64 years (mean age 44 ± 14 years), with dry facial skin, who applied morning and evening the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention and the placebo to half of their face.

[0174] The ability of the active ingredient according to the invention to improve the quality of the skin barrier was evaluated using the following methods: measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), on Caucasian and Asian panels, at the level of the cheeks using a Téwamètre ®< (Courage & Khazaka); determination of the quantity of epidermal lipids on a Caucasian panel from acquisitions made at the level of the cheeks by Raman microspectroscopy (Horiba).

[0175] A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1% in emulsion, on the skin barrier function of Caucasian and Asian volunteers is presented as follows: It is observed that after 28 days of twice-daily application and compared to placebo, the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1% in emulsion, improves the barrier function by reducing insensible water loss in the face: of 15.1% for the Caucasian panel (p = 0.0005), an effect observed in 83% of volunteers; of 20.9% for the Asian volunteers (p < 0.001). This effect was observed in 87% of them.

[0176] A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of an active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1% in emulsion, on the amount of epidermal lipids in Caucasian volunteers is presented as follows: After 28 days of twice-daily application to the face, and compared to placebo, the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1% in emulsion, improved the barrier function by significantly increasing the amount of lipids in the stratum corneum by 6.1% (p = 0.0022). This effect was observed in 67% of the volunteers. Effect of an active ingredient according to the invention on cell renewal

[0177] The objective of this study is to evaluate, in vivo, in comparison to placebo, the ability of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 1% in emulsion to promote epidermal renewal.

[0178] This study was conducted on 14 healthy Caucasian volunteers, aged 28 to 52 years (mean age 43 ± 8 years), with dry skin on their hands and face. The volunteers applied the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention and a placebo to the inner surface of their forearms, morning and evening.

[0179] The ability of the active ingredient according to the invention to improve cell renewal was evaluated from photographs taken on the inner surface of the forearms, using a dermatoscope.

[0180] A summary of the results relating to the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1% in emulsion, on cell renewal in Caucasian volunteers is presented as follows: After 14 days of twice-daily application, and compared to placebo, the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1% in emulsion, accelerates skin cell renewal by more rapidly decreasing the parameter b*, representative of melanin yellow color. Thus, with the active ingredient according to the invention, the renewal rate is increased by more than 20% (a gain of 3 days out of 14 days). Cosmetic benefits of an active ingredient according to the invention

[0181] The objective of this study is to evaluate, in vivo, the effect of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 1% in emulsion on skin quality, compared to placebo, after 28 days of application.

[0182] Caucasian panels (showing dry skin on the hands and face): Facial study: A panel of 18 healthy volunteers, aged 32 to 52 years (mean age 43 ± 6 years), applied the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention and a placebo to half of their face morning and evening. Hand study: A panel of 19 healthy volunteers, aged 26 to 52 years (mean age 43 ± 7 years), applied the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention and a placebo to the backs of their hands four times a day. Asian panel (with dry skin on their hands): A panel of 31 healthy volunteers, aged 20 to 64 years (mean age 44 ± 14 years), applied the formula containing the active ingredient according to the invention and a placebo to half of their face morning and evening.

[0183] The ability of the active ingredient according to the invention to improve skin quality was evaluated using the following methods: measurement of hydration levels using a Corneometer ®< (Courage & Khazaka) on the hands on a Caucasian panel and on the cheeks on an Asian panel; visualization of skin dryness using a dermatoscope on the hands on a Caucasian panel; evaluation of skin radiance by clinical scoring, on a Caucasian and Asian panel; visualization of skin radiance on digital photographs on a Caucasian and Asian panel; sampling and analysis of the skin microbiota on the forehead on a Caucasian panel.

[0184] A summary of the results corresponding to the moisturizing effect of an active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1% in emulsion, is presented as follows: After 28 days of twice-daily application and compared to placebo, the active ingredient according to the invention, formulated at 1% in emulsion, significantly increases skin hydration at the level of: of the hands of Caucasian volunteers by 16.2% (p = 0.0039). This effect was observed in 67% of volunteers. of the face of Asian volunteers by 15.8% (p < 0.001), an effect observed in 87% of them.

[0185] A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 1% in emulsion on the radiance of the complexion, evaluated by experts, on Caucasian and Asian volunteers is presented as follows: After 28 days of twice-daily application and in comparison to placebo, the active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 1% in emulsion, improves the radiance of the complexion of Caucasian and Asian volunteers.

[0186] In Caucasian volunteers, the active ingredient according to the invention: Significantly increases skin radiance (+7.4%, p = 0.0023), the pink color representative of a fresh complexion (+14.7%, p = 0.0077), and the healthy glow effect (+6.4%, p = 0.0147). Significantly decreases olive skin tone (-9.2%, p = 0.0232).

[0187] In Asian volunteers, the active ingredient according to the invention significantly increases skin radiance (+13.9% p=0.000), skin tone homogeneity (+6.0%, p = 0.025), as well as skin hydration (+7.0%, p = 0.014).

[0188] The use of an active ingredient according to the invention on healthy skin therefore improves the beauty of the skin, in particular its radiance and hydration.

Claims

1. A cosmetic active substance characterized in that it is the product obtained through bioconversion by Lactobacillus arizonensis of Simmondsia chinensis.

2. The cosmetic active substance according to claim 1, characterized in that it is obtained from the supernatant obtained through bioconversion with Lactobacillus arizonensis of Simmondsia chinensis.

3. The cosmetic active substance according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is the supernatant obtained through bioconversion by Lactobacillus arizonensis of Simmondsia chinensis.

4. The cosmetic active substance according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises sugars.

5. The cosmetic active substance according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the carbohydrate fraction of the active substance comprises polysaccharides and oligosaccharides of glucose, galactose and fructose.

6. The active substance according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one cyclic polyol.

7. The cosmetic active substance according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least Pinitol.

8. The cosmetic active substance according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises proteins and / or minerals and / or lactic acid.

9. The active substance according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in powder form.

10. A cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% by weight of an active substance according to one of claims 1 to 8.

11. The cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is in the form of a gel, emulsion or cream.

12. A method for obtaining an active substance according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - Culturing of Lactobacillus arizonensis in a culture medium supplemented with Simmondsia chinensis - Stopping cultivation through thermal inactivation - Separating the biomass from the supernatant - Filtering the supernatant.

13. The method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it also comprises a purification step and / or a decoloration step and / or a deodorization step and / or an atomization step.

14. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic active substance according to one of claims 1 to 8 on healthy skin to improve the beauty of the skin.

15. The cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 10 or 11, on healthy skin, in order to improve the beauty of the skin.

16. The non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 10 or 11, for improving the glow of the skin and / or enhancing the radiance of the skin and / or increasing the hydration of the skin.

17. The cosmetic composition according to one of claims 10 or 11 for its use to regulate the balance of the skin flora and / or to reinforce the integrity of the skin barrier and / or to activate epidermal renewals and / or to energize the innate immune defenses.

18. A method for the cosmetic treatment of healthy skin in order to improve the beauty of the skin, characterized in that it consists in applying a composition according to one of claims 10 or 11 to the skin at least once a day.