Hydrating complex and use in moisturising compositions

Abstract

[1] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular for the care and / or hygiene of keratin materials (skin and / or lips), preferably the lips and / or skin (face and / or body), more particularly to the field of compositions such as moisturising, care, make-up, sun protection or hair care compositions. [2] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of six compounds (also referred to as the moisturising complex): low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, glycerin, diglycerin, gellan gum and aloe vera gel. The composition according to the invention is a moisturising cosmetic composition and, in particular, a care, make-up, sun protection or hair care composition also providing a moisturising effect. The invention also includes a foundation, a mask, a sunscreen, a lotion, a serum, a gel cream, a cream, a balm, a bi-phase composition or a gel comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention. The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cosmetic care, moisturising and / or make-up of keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably the lips and / or skin (face and / or body), and to a cosmetic process for the care and / or hygiene of keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably the lips and / or skin (face and / or body).

Description

Description Title of the invention: MOISTURIZING COMPLEX, AND USE IN MOISTURIZING COMPOSITIONS [1] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular the care, and / or hygiene of keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably of the lips and / or skin (face and / or body), more particularly to that of compositions such as moisturizing, care, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene compositions. [2] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of six compounds (also called a moisturizing complex): low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, glycerin, diglycerin, gellan gum and an aloe vera gel. The composition according to the invention is a moisturizing cosmetic composition, and in particular a care, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene composition also providing a moisturizing effect. The invention also includes a foundation, a mask, a sunscreen, a lotion, a serum, a gel-cream, a cream, a balm, a two-phase composition or a gel comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention.The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for cosmetic care, hydration and / or makeup of keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably of the lips and / or skin (face and / or body), as well as to a cosmetic process for care and / or hygiene of keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably of the lips and / or skin (face and / or body). [3] The applicant is the creator of Botanical Cosmetics and has been promoting natural cosmetics since 1959. Its research into raw materials and its expertise in formulation drives it to innovate to create ever more natural formulas to satisfy the consumer and create scientific value. In order to limit its impact on the environment, the applicant is pursuing an innovation approach to substitute ingredients from non-renewable resources. and not easily biodegradable. This represents a major challenge in certain cosmetic categories, because it is imperative to simultaneously guarantee the safety, efficacy and sensoriality of products for consumers. [4] Compositions comprising moisturizing complexes have been present for many years, particularly in the field of moisturizing cosmetic compositions: the advantage of this type of complex is that it allows the moisturizing effect of the compositions to be considerably prolonged. Conventionally, a moisturizing composition is understood to mean a composition comprising compounds such as humectants, hygroscopic molecules such as glycerin or other glycols, urea, amino acids, betaine, sugars or hyaluronic acid. Conventional moisturizing cosmetic compositions have numerous advantages, such as a moisturizing capacity of up to 48 hours. However, despite certain advantages, conventional moisturizing cosmetic compositions still have certain constraints, and in particular the difficulty of obtaining a moisturizing effect lasting beyond 48 hours. [5] For certain applications, conventional moisturizing cosmetic compositions cannot be used, in particular because of the sticky effect induced by certain compounds useful for hydration, including betaine. [6] There is thus a need to propose new moisturizing cosmetic compositions which solve the problems observed in the known compositions. In particular, there is a need to propose a new moisturizing complex, which can be integrated into a whole range of cosmetic compositions such as foundations, masks, sunscreens, lotions, serums, gel-creams, creams, balms or gels which make it possible to confer a moisturizing capacity or to improve a pre-existing moisturizing capacity of keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably of the lips and / or the skin (face and / or body). [7] It is to the applicant's credit to propose a new composition comprising a combination of six raw materials which, when incorporated into a cosmetic composition, gives it a moisturizing effect, or considerably improves it when it is already present. The new composition according to the invention allows a hydration duration of keratin materials significantly extended compared to current solutions. The composition according to the invention can provide a hydrating effect, or an improved hydrating effect, up to 72 hours after application, or even 100 hours and beyond after only a single application. The new hydrating complex also makes it possible to obtain hydrating cosmetic compositions, care, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene compositions whose hydrating capacity is significantly superior to those not comprising the combination of six raw materials according to the invention. [8] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is very versatile and can in particular be incorporated into any type of leave-on moisturizing cosmetic composition. Leave-on is understood to mean a composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (See Article 1 of Directive 76 / 768 / EC). In the context of the invention, "leave-on" is understood to mean a composition applied without being subsequently rinsed off. The composition of the invention therefore makes it possible to maintain the various superficial parts of the human body to which it is applied in good condition. This point was verified by a standard tolerance test sequence. [9] The invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition comprising low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, glycerin, diglycerin, gellan gum and an aloe vera gel.

[0010] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the combination of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, glycerin, diglycerin, gellan gum and aloe vera gel, provides the moisturizing effect. This combination of six raw materials, also called a moisturizing complex, can be used in the composition of various cosmetic compositions, such as moisturizing, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene compositions.

[0011] Advantageously, the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight in the range from 5,000 Da to 15,000 Da, preferably 10,000 Da. It may be low molecular weight hyaluronic acid with CAS number 9004-61-9. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 0.5% of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably from 0.01 to 0.1%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0012] Advantageously, the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid is sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight in the range from 500,000 Da to 2,000,000 Da, preferably 1,000,000 Da. It may be sodium hyaluronate with CAS number 9067-32-7 / 9004-61-9. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 2% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably from 0.01 to 0.1%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0013] Advantageously, the glycerin is of plant origin. The glycerin has a purity index in the range from 99.0 to 101%, and has a refractive index in the range from 1.47 to 1.475. It may be glycerin with CAS number 56-81-5. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 1 to 15% of glycerin, preferably 5 to 10%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0014] Advantageously, the diglycerin is of plant origin. The diglycerin has a purity index greater than 90%, and has a refractive index in the range from 1.275 to 1.285. It may be diglycerin with CAS number 59113-36-9. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 1 to 10% of diglycerin, preferably 1 to 5%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0015] Advantageously, the gellan gum is of natural origin. It may be KELCOGEL grade gellan gum (e.g. CG-LA). The gellan gum has a gel strength generally in the range of 190.0 blooms to 290.0 blooms. It may be gellan gum with CAS number 71010-52-1. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 0.5% gellan gum, preferably 0.1 to 0.5%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0016] Advantageously, the aloe vera gel may comprise water and aloe vera powder. This may be aqua & aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder (INCI). According to the invention, the aloe vera gel may comprise from 90 to 99.9% water and from 0.1 to 10% aloe vera, preferably 99.5% water and 0.5% aloe vera, relative to the mass of said aloe vera gel. In the gel, the aloe vera is generally present in powder form. The aloe vera gel may, for example, be a gel recomposed by hydrating a powder of ALOE VERA POWDER 200X, CAS number 85507-69-3 / 94349-62-9. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 1 to 40% of aloe vera gel, preferably 5 to 20%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0017] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise: - from 0.01 to 0.5% of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, - from 0.01 to 2% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, - from 1 to 15% glycerin, - from 1 to 10% diglycerin, - from 0.01 to 0.5% gellan gum, and - from 1 to 40% aloe vera gel, the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

[0018] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise: - from 0.01 to 0.1% of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, - from 0.01 to 0.1% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, - 5 to 10% glycerin, - 1 to 5% diglycerin, - 0.1 to 0.5% gellan gum, and - from 5 to 20% aloe vera gel, the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

[0019] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise water, optionally one or more elements chosen from water-miscible solvents, fatty substances, including oils, UVA and / or UVB filters, surfactants, polyols, gelling agents, emollients, thickeners, pH adjusters, perfumes, colorants, pigments, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, essential oils or even cosmetic active ingredients.

[0020] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more lipophilic excipients chosen from a UVA and / or UVB filter, a perfume, a colorant, a pigment, an oil, preferably of plant origin, an ester, a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, an antioxidant, an essential oil and a lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0021] Lipophilic excipients are understood to mean, when liquid, a liquid which is immiscible with water, i.e. when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when solid, insoluble in water, i.e. when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water.

[0022] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an oil. The oil may be of animal or plant origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The oil is preferably of plant origin and / or preferably of natural origin.

[0023] In the context of the invention, the term "oil" means oily / fatty compounds whose definition is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at room temperature. An oil is a liquid that is immiscible with water, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble at a rate of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water. An oil may be volatile or non-volatile. By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10' 3mmHg (0.13 Pa). By "volatile" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The oils that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, preferably having a melting point below 20°C.

[0024] Advantageously, the oil may be chosen from the group comprising oils of plant origin, preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grape seed, camellia, argan, cotton, borage, muscat rose, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soybean, flax, squalane (cane sugar oil), C10 to C30 alkanes and mixtures thereof.

[0025] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an ester. The ester may be of animal or plant origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The ester is preferably of plant origin and / or preferably of natural origin.

[0026] Advantageously, the ester may be chosen from the group comprising plant esters, preferably chosen from ethylhexyl cocoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, C8 to C30 alcohol triglycerides (i.e. caprylic capric triglyceride), dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0027] Advantageously, the fatty acid may be chosen from the group comprising vegetable fatty acids, preferably chosen from C8 to C26 fatty acids. Preferably, the fatty acid may be chosen from lauric acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0028] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from the group comprising vegetable fatty alcohols, preferably chosen from C10 to C22 fatty alcohols. Preferably, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, stearic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0029] Advantageously, the UVA and / or UVB filter is a lipophilic organic UV filter. The lipophilic organic UV filter may be one or more lipophilic organic UV filters chosen from lipophilic organic UVA filters, lipophilic organic UVB filters, and mixtures thereof.

[0030] Advantageously, the UVA and / or UVB filter may be chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, such as butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane or avobenzone, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, such as ethyl PABA, ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, salicylic derivatives, such as homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, cinnamic derivatives, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxy cinnamate, isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, cinoxate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, |3, [3-diphenylacrylate] derivatives, such as octocrylene, benzophenone derivatives, such as benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-12, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-n-hexyl benzoate, benzylidene camphor derivatives, such as 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor,phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, such as Drometrizole Trisiloxane, triazine derivatives, such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-, 6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine anthranilic derivatives, such as menthyl anthranilate, imidazoline derivatives, such as ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate, benzalmalonate derivatives, such as di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, benzalmalonate-functional polyorganosiloxane such as Polysilicone-15, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, such as 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, and benzoxazole derivatives, such as 2,4-bis-[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino- 1 ,3,5-triazine, lipophilic merocyanine derivatives, such as octyl-5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate. Preferably, the UVA and / or UVB filter may be chosen from butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, benzophenone-3, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis (4'- dineopentyl aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)- 4,4-Diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis-[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pigment and / or colorant. The pigment may be chosen from the group comprising organic, inorganic and / or composite pigments such as, for example, monochrome pigments (white, black or colored), lakes, pearlescents and / or optical effect pigments. They may be synthetic or natural.

[0032] In the context of the invention, the term "pigment" means organic, inorganic or composite particles, which may be monochrome, lakes, pearlescent materials, or pigments with an optical effect, such as pigments reflective and goniochromatic pigments. Mineral (inorganic) pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments (such as cerium, chromium, iron, titanium, zinc or zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and mixtures thereof). Organic pigments may be D&C red 6, D&C red 27 aluminum lake, FD&C red 40 aluminum lake, D&C red 21 aluminum lake, D&C red 36, FD&C yellow 5 aluminum lake, FDC Blue 1 aluminum lake, D&C red 7 aluminum lake, D&C red 30.

[0033] In the context of the invention, the term "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles or elements of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally exhibits color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on different supports including mica, synthetic fluorflogopithe and bismuth oxychloride, and combined with the pigments listed in the previous paragraph.

[0034] In the context of the invention, the term "colorant" means coloring substances which are not pigments or nacres. It may be, for example, a colorant such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.

[0035] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one perfume. The term "perfume" means a perfuming composition whose primary function is to modify the odor of a product or impart an odor to a product.

[0036] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0037] In the context of the invention, the term "cosmetic active ingredient" means a substance or a mixture of substances intended to be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the lips, etc.) or with the teeth and the oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting the body odor. A cosmetic active ingredient is generally an ingredient that acts on the skin to provide it with a real benefit. For example, an active ingredient can be nourishing, soothing, hydrating, mattifying, or redensifying.

[0038] Advantageously, the lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the group comprising an extract of cornflower, matricaria, chamomile, rosemary, calendula. The cosmetic active ingredient can be easily selected by a person skilled in the art depending on the desired cosmetic effect (anti-aging, nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying, deodorizing).

[0039] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one essential oil. The term "essential oil" means an oily liquid concentrated in plant substances, obtained by extraction or distillation of volatile molecules from the original plant. The majority of these are terpenoids and aromatic molecules. Essential oils from different plants therefore have different properties, dependent on the original composition.

[0040] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more hydrophilic excipients chosen from a surfactant, a colorant, a polyol (different from the glycerin and diglycerin already present in the moisturizing complex according to the invention), a gelling agent (i.e. a polysaccharide, different from the high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids already present in the moisturizing complex according to the invention, including in particular gums (different from the gellan gum already present in the moisturizing complex according to the invention, and / or a carbomer), a preservative, an antimicrobial agent, a chelating agent and a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0041] A hydrophilic excipient is understood to mean a liquid which is miscible with water, i.e. when introduced at a rate of at least 0.1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is completely soluble in water, or soluble to a level of at least 90% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, soluble in water, i.e. soluble to at least 0.1 g / L.

[0042] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant. The surfactant may be an anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric surfactant or a combination of their mixtures.

[0043] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant may be chosen from the group comprising an alkyl sulfate, an alkyl sulfoacetate, an isethionate, a taurate, an acylglutamate, and a sarcosinate.

[0044] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise one, or two, or three of the anionic surfactants cited. For example, the composition of the invention may contain an ammonium lauryl sulfate, a lauryl sulfoacetate, a sodium cocoyl isethionate, a sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, a sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, a sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, a sodium stearoyl glutamate, a sodium lauroyl glutamate or a mixture.

[0045] According to the invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant may be chosen from the group comprising N-alkylamidobetaines, betaines, sultaines, alkylpolyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates, their derivatives, and glycine derivatives. For example, the composition according to the invention may contain betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate

[0046] According to the invention, the at least one non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from the group comprising glycolipids, alkylpolyglucosides, glyceryl fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, oxyalkylenated sucrose esters, oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols and glucamine derivatives. For example: the composition of the invention may contain decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, glyceryl oleate, pEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl stearate citrate, sorbitan palmitate, cocoyl methyl glucamide, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate.

[0047] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one gelling agent (different from gellan gum and high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids of the moisturizing complex). The gelling agent may be a polysaccharide, a carbomer (e.g. CAS = 9007-20-9 / 9003-01-4 / 76050-42-5 / 9062-04-8) or a polyacrylate, preferably a polysaccharide. The polysaccharide may be chosen from xanthan gum, glucomannan, gellan gum, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid (e.g. sodium hyaluronate) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gum (e.g. CAS 11138-66-2), glucomannan, sodium carboxymethyl starch, algin, chondrus crispus powder and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol, preferably a C3 to C6 polyol (different from the glycerin and diglycerin already present in the moisturizing complex according to the invention). The term “polyol” means a hydrocarbon compound comprising at least 2 hydroxyl functions. The C3 to C6 polyol may be linear or branched. The polyol is preferably a diol. The polyol may be chosen from propylene glycol (propan-1,2-diol), butylene glycol (butan-1,2-diol), pentylene glycol (pentan-1,2-diol), propane-1,3-diol, methylpropanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one preservative and / or one antimicrobial agent. The at least one preservative and / or one antimicrobial agent may be chosen from the substances listed in Annex V “Preservatives” of Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223 / 2009 of November 30, 2009 may be added, and more particularly from sorbic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, benzoic acid, its salts and its esters, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phenylpropanol, benzyl alcohol and their mixtures.

[0050] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one antioxidant. The antioxidant may be chosen from hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone, tocopherol and their mixtures. This can be any other substance capable of slowing down or preventing the oxidation of the cosmetic composition.

[0051] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0052] Advantageously, the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the group comprising a floral water such as centaurea cyanus flower water (Cornflower floral water) or carpobrotus edulis extract.

[0053] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one chelating agent. The chelating agent may be chosen from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid and mixtures thereof. It may be any other cosmetic substance having the capacity to fix positive ions to form a stable complex.

[0054] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more organic or inorganic salts, one or more organic acids, such as sodium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium hydroxide (pH adjuster), citric acid, sodium bicarbonate, lactic acid, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise vitamins, such as vitamin C, inositol (B7), panthenol (B5), vitamin F (ethyl linoleate), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin A (retinol).

[0056] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a liquid serum, a cream gel or a rich cream and comprise: - from 0.05 to 0.1% of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, - from 0.05 to 0.1% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, - 5 to 10% glycerin, - 1 to 3% diglycerin, - 0.2 to 0.4% gellan gum, and - 6 to 12% aloe vera gel, - from 0.1 to 10% of at least one polyol (other than glycerin and diglycerin), - from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, - from 0.05 to 0.3% of a chelating agent, - from 0.01 to 0.4% of at least one inorganic salt, preferably calcium chloride, - optionally from 0.01 to 0.5% of at least one oil, - optionally from 0.05 to 0.5% of a perfume, - optionally from 0.1 to 3% of at least one surfactant, - optionally 0.1 to 1% of at least one antioxidant, - optionally from 0.5 to 5% of at least one gelling agent, preferably at least one polysaccharide (different from low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid), - from 45 to 86% water, the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

[0057] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a liquid serum, a cream gel or a rich cream and comprise: - from 0.01 to 0.1% of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, - from 0.01 to 0.1% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, - 5 to 8% glycerin, - 1 to 3% diglycerin, - 0.2 to 0.4% gellan gum, and - 6 to 12% aloe vera gel, - from 0.1 to 10% of at least one polyol (other than glycerin and diglycerin), - from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, - from 0.05 to 0.3 of a chelating agent, - from 0.01 to 0.4% of at least one inorganic salt, preferably calcium chloride, - from 0.1 to 1% of at least one surfactant, - optionally from 0.01 to 0.5% of at least one oil, - from 60 to 88% water, the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

[0058] Surprisingly, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain, in particular thanks to the moisturizing complex, the following advantages: - improve hydration, up to at least 72 hours for a single application, and up to 100 hours in certain applications such as moisturizing serums, for example for the face, - give a moisturizing effect to compositions that do not normally have one (e.g. foundation, sunscreen, etc.), - significantly improve the moisturizing effect of moisturizing compositions, and - effective hydration, without stickiness.

[0059] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from a moisturizing, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene composition.

[0060] In the present invention, when an interval is given, the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "ranging from 1 to 5%", the values ​​1% and 5% are included in the interval.

[0061] In the present invention, all percentages (%) are given as a percentage by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. In the case of cosmetic compositions such as so-called biphasic compositions or emulsions, the percentages may also be given relative to the total mass of the oily phase or the aqueous phase.

[0062] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are exclusively or almost exclusively composed of products of natural origin. Thus, “almost exclusively” means a composition which comprises less than 10% of products of synthetic origin relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 2%. Unavoidable compounds such as perfume, preservatives, certain fillers and pigments essential in makeup products are designated as materials of synthetic origin. For example, a makeup remover type composition may generally include less than 10% of products of synthetic origin (i.e. preservatives, perfumes). For example, an anti-aging treatment composition may generally include less than 5% of products of synthetic origin. For example, a moisturizing composition may generally include less than 5% of products of synthetic origin.

[0063] In the context of the invention, the term "product of natural origin" means a product falling within the definition given by the ISO 16128 standard: ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, by their molecular mass, according to their renewable carbon content, or according to any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It may be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, i.e. which is found in nature. In the context of the invention, products such as butters or oils derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable, are considered to be products of natural origin.

[0064] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional cosmetic excipients conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a wax, a butter or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of natural origin.

[0065] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more phases (including at least one aqueous phase). The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a lotion, a serum, a gel, an emulsion (e.g. balm, cream or gel-cream), water-in-oil or oil-in-water, or a two-phase composition (i.e. a composition comprising a fatty or oily phase and an aqueous phase where the two phases are optically separated at zero shear rate and become homogeneous upon agitation and revert to two separate phases again after agitation is stopped).

[0066] The invention also relates to a foundation, a mask, a sunscreen, a lotion, a serum, a gel-cream, a cream, a balm, a two-phase composition or a gel comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0067] An object of the invention is also a moisturizing, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene composition, comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0068] The invention also comprises a use of the composition according to the invention for moisturizing the skin and / or the lips, preferably for a period of at least 72 hours, and more preferably from 72 to 100 hours.

[0069] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for, moisturizing and / or making up keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably the lips and / or the skin (face and / or body), comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the lips, the skin (face and / or body) and / or the hair, at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0070] The invention also comprises the use of a two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care (preferably cosmetic), hydration and / or makeup of keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably of the lips and / or skin (face and / or body).

[0071] Advantageously, the use according to the invention may be a use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention to moisturize, protect and / or nourish keratin materials (skin and / or hair), preferably the lips and / or the skin (face and / or body).

[0072] The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, in a non-limiting manner.

[0073] Example 1: study of the effectiveness of the moisturizing complex according to the invention in three different compositions and verification of the effectiveness of hydration over 72 hours.

[0074] The study was carried out on different galenics in order to demonstrate its effectiveness on three different care galenics: - Liquid serum (composition 1); - Cream Gel (composition 2) and - Rich Cream (composition 3).

[0075] Preparation process for the 3 compositions: The aqueous phase (A) is heated to 75°C, the ingredients of the aqueous phase are added one by one at this temperature, under a Raynerie deflocculator. For compositions 2 and 3, the fatty phase (B) is prepared in parallel and also heated to a temperature of 75°C. For compositions 2 and 3, the emulsion is made by adding the fatty phase (B) to the aqueous phase (A) at a temperature of 75°C with vigorous stirring. The compositions are then cooled with slow stirring to room temperature (approximately 20-25°C). The more temperature-sensitive materials (C) such as perfume, for example, are introduced during cooling. 76] Table 1: mass compositions (in %) of compositions 1, 2 and 3.

[0077] The 72-hour moisturizing efficacy study was demonstrated via: • Raman measurements by 3 measurements on 3 areas of the forearm, i.e. 7588 spectra in order to evaluate the thickness of the stratum corneum as well as the evaluation of its hydration state: free water, total water, bound water; • measurements of the capacitance of the stratum corneum (corneometry under standard conditions) by 4 measurements on the forearm.

[0078] Moisturizing efficacy was assessed on the forearm. Panelists were recruited under the following conditions: - Volunteers with dry to very dry skin; - Phototype I to III; - All ages; - No cream on the forearm for 48 hours.

[0079] Corneometry results: The measurements show significant hydration by measuring the capacitance of the stratum corneum for compositions 1 to 3 at 72h: Liquid serum: +9.6% capacitance compared to untreated control; Gel Cream: +13.3% capacitance compared to the untreated control; and Rich Cream: +18.5% capacitance compared to the untreated control.

[0080] Raman measurement results: The measurements carried out on compositions 1 to 3 show significant hydration by measuring the hydration state (total water) of the stratum corneum for 72 hours: Composition 1: +23.7% hydration compared to the untreated control; Composition 2: +15.9% hydration compared to the untreated control; and Composition 3: +16.7% hydration compared to the untreated control.

[0081] Example 2: Formulation of a 100-hour moisturizing serum: composition 4

[0082] Process for preparing compositions 4 to 7: The aqueous phase (A) is heated to 75°C, the ingredients of the aqueous phase are added one by one at this temperature, under a Raynerie deflocculator. The composition is then cooled with slow stirring to room temperature. The more temperature-sensitive materials (C) such as perfume for example are introduced during cooling.

[0083] Table 2: mass composition (in %) of compositions 4, 5, 6 and 7

[0084] Hydration measurements were carried out under standard corneometry conditions on composition 4.

[0085] Moisturizing efficacy was assessed on the forearm and >2 legs. Panelists were recruited under the following conditions: - Volunteers with normal, dry to very dry skin; - Women aged 56 to 70; - No cream on the forearm and thigh for 48 hours.

[0086] Corneometry results on 12 cases: Significant average increase in hydration of 40%, 1h after 1 application and 15%, 100h after 1 application compared to the untreated control.

[0087] Example 3: Improvement of hydration and sensoriality, comparison of composition 4 and counter-example composition 1

[0088] Preparation process for composition counter-example 1: The aqueous phase is heated to 75°C, the ingredients of the aqueous phase (A) are added one by one at this temperature, under a Raynerie deflocculator. The composition is then cooled with slow stirring to room temperature. The more temperature-sensitive materials (C) such as perfume for example are introduced during cooling. 89] Table 3: mass composition (in %) composition counter-example 1 (CE1)

[0090] Measurement of hydration by corneometry under standard conditions of use at 30 minutes, 24 hours and 48 hours after application of the CE1 composition, we observe a significant average increase in the hydration index of respectively 64%, 16% and 12% compared to the untreated control.

[0091] Composition 4 according to the invention has a better hydration performance over time than composition CE1 not comprising the combination of the hydrating complex according to the invention. Composition 4 allows prolonged hydration lasting 100 hours for a single application, while composition CE1 only allows hydration for 48 hours.

[0092] In the new complex we did not need to add betaine, which is an ingredient commonly used in cosmetic compositions for its moisturizing properties. The performance of this complex is superior even without its use. It can be added as an excipient to this complex for formulation needs.

[0093] Betaine can add a stickier feel to facial skincare formulas. The performance of our betaine-free moisturizing complex has allowed us to reduce the stickiness perceived by consumers.

[0094] A blind consumer test was carried out to evaluate, on the basis of a self-assessment, the cosmetic quality of 2 products: composition 4 and composition CE1.

[0095] The inclusion criteria for this test were as follows: 88% women, 12% men, age between 19 and 45 years, all skin types. Panelists applied the product twice daily for 7 days. 96] Table 4: Self-assessment of panelists (105 people)

[0097] In conclusion: The moisturizing performance of composition 4 is better in measured effectiveness (by corneometry), which is confirmed by the perceived effectiveness. In addition, the sensoriality of the product is better: less sticky, more refreshing, preferred by 48% of panelists (vs. 27% for the old one).

[0098] Example 4: measurement of hydration on another galenic such as foundation. 99] Table 5: mass composition (in %) composition counter-example 2 (CE2)

[0100] Measurement of hydration by corneometry under standard conditions of use at 15 minutes and 24 hours after application of the CE2 composition, a significant average increase in the hydration index of 55% and 12% respectively is observed compared to the untreated area.

[0101] Composition 4 according to the invention has a better hydration performance over time than composition CE2 not comprising the combination of the hydrating complex according to the invention. Composition 4 allows prolonged hydration lasting 100 hours (+15% hydration compared to the untreated area) for a single application, while composition CE2 only allows hydration for 24 hours (+12% hydration compared to the untreated area).

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, glycerin, diglycerin, gellan gum and aloe vera gel.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight in the range from 3,000 Da to 15,000 Da, preferably 10,000 Da.

3. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight in the range from 500,000 Da to 2,000,000 Da, preferably 1,000,000 Da.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the aloe vera gel is aqua & aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising water, optionally one or more elements chosen from water-miscible solvents, fatty substances, including oils, UVA and / or UVB filters, surfactants, polyols, gelling agents, emollients, thickeners, pH adjusters, perfumes, colorants, pigments, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, essential oils or even cosmetic active ingredients.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of foundation, mask, sunscreen, lotion, serum, cream gel, cream, two-phase composition or gel.

7. Foundation, mask, sunscreen, lotion, serum, gel-cream, cream, balm, two-phase composition or gel comprising a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

8. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care, hydration and / or makeup of keratin materials, preferably the lips, skin and / or hair, comprising at least one step of applying to the lips, skin and / or hair at least one cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

9. Non-therapeutic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for moisturizing keratin materials, preferably the lips, skin and / or hair, preferably for a period of at least 72 hours, and more preferably from 72 to 100 hours.

10. Non-therapeutic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for imparting a moisturizing effect to a foundation, mask, sunscreen, lotion, serum, gel-cream, cream, balm, two-phase composition or gel composition.

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