Hair treatment compositions

Abstract

Use of a hair treatment composition comprises an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a non-ionic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof; an amino acid complex comprising glutamic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, and histidine; and a fiber active complex, to repair damage to hair protein in hair.

Description

[0001] HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS

[0002] Field of the invention

[0003] Disclosed herein are uses for hair treatment compositions to repair damage to hair protein in hair. The hair treatment compositions used comprise a surfactant, an amino acid complex, and a fiber active complex. The surfactant can comprise an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a non-ionic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof. The amino acid complex can comprise glutamic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, and histidine.

[0004] Background of the invention

[0005] Consumers regularly subject their hair to intensive treatment, care, and styling routines to help achieve their desired look. The actions performed by consumers introduce modifications to the chemistry of hair keratin protein which results in micro- and macro-structural changes and, in turn, changes fiber physical properties: the consequences of these are generally perceived by the consumer as damage.

[0006] Combing and brushing of hair mechanically abrades the fiber cuticle making this rougher and increasing the frictional characteristics. Hair lightening, such as bleaching, or coloring treatments generally involve an oxidative step to break down melanin and develop the new hair color, but these processes also oxidize the hair fiber protein and the endogenous lipids. These reactions alter the number and types of covalent and non-covalent bonds within the fiber and impact the thermal stability and mechanical properties of the hair. The internal protein of damaged hair typically has a reduced denaturation temperature compared to that of virgin hair.

[0007] Various organic molecules and combinations thereof have been suggested for use in the treatment of damaged hair.

[0008] International Patent Application No. WO 2004 / 054526 describes hair treatment compositions for the care and repair of damaged hair, and for improving hair manageability, comprising a disaccharide, (in particular trehalose). International Patent Application No. WO 2004 / 054525 describes hair treatment compositions for the care and repair of damaged hair, and for improving hair manageability, comprising a disaccharide (in particular trehalose), and a diol (in particular 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol).

[0009] International Patent Application No. WO 2009 / 040240 discloses hair treatment compositions comprising a lactone and a disaccharide for the treatment of dry, damaged and / or unmanageable hair.

[0010] U.S. Patent No. 11 ,612,554 discloses compositions comprising (a) at least one negatively charged amino acid and a derivative thereof, (b) at least one positively charged amino acid and a derivative thereof, (c) at least one silicone copolymer, and (d) at least one emulsifier.

[0011] Super Damage Repair Hair Care Set (Mintel Record ID: 847566) is a set containing shampoo, conditioner, and a hair pack. The kit is formulated with twelve different amino acids to clean and sufficiently nourish hair and to restore hair quality within.

[0012] Korean Patent Application No. KR 2010 / 0028722 A discloses depilation prevention including the placental extract and amino acid mixture, and the composition for the hair damage improvement or the hair moisturizing, more specifically, to the depilation prevention including the placental extract, and the amino acid mixture of 17 kinds and pitot stearyl / octyl dodecyl lauryl glutamate, and the composition for the hair damage improvement or the hair moisturizing.

[0013] No Wash Recovery Cream Treatment (Mintel Record ID: 9304246) discloses a convenient cream type treatment with a no rinse formula that can be used on wet hair and does not require washing of hands as it has a clean finish . It removes tangles from bleached and damaged hair while protecting damaged hair with long-lasting protein bonding complex, which is formulated with hydrolysed silk, keratin, collagen protein and five types of plant protein. It contains seaweed complex ingredient, natural protein and argan and almond oil , allowing smooth combing for bleached hair, giving shine and heating protection.

[0014] International Application Publication No. WO 2012 / 054029 discloses hair-mending compositions containing a polyelectrolyte complex. Also disclosed are methods of their use, methods of their manufacture, methods of testing their efficacy, and media methods involving hair mending. Hair Straightening Composition (Croda International Pic), Research Disclosure Database number 644038, December 2017, discloses an active ingredient sold by Croda Europe Limited under the trade name Kereffect™ SD, INCi: Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Keratin, is a protein derived from keratin which has been hydrolyzed and further modified to contain a bunte salt moiety. The material is promoted for its use as an agent to improve the hair straightening performance of products containing sodium sulphite, where the sodium sulphite is used as a reducing agent to break disulphide bonds in the hair.

[0015] U.S. Patent Publication No. 2019 / 0167548 A1 discloses agent (M) for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier, based on the total weight of the agent (M), (a) one or more aliphatic polyols in a total amount from about 1.0 to about 40.0% by weight and (b) one or more cyclic carbonates in a total amount from about 1.0 to about 20.0% by weight, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of the aliphatic polyols (a) contained in the agent (M) to the total amount of the cyclic carbonates (b) contained in the agent (M), that is, the weight ratio (a) / (b), is a value of from about 40 to about 1.

[0016] It is continually desired to provide uses for hair treatment compositions that not only do not damage hair, but that also repair damage previously done to the hair.

[0017] Summary of the invention

[0018] Disclosed in various aspects are uses for hair treatment compositions.

[0019] Use of a hair treatment composition comprises an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a non-ionic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof; an amino acid complex comprising glutamic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, and histidine; and a fiber active complex, to repair damage to hair protein in hair.

[0020] These and other features and characteristics are more particularly described below.

[0021] Detailed description of the invention

[0022] Disclosed herein are uses of hair treatment compositions. The hair treatment compositions used can comprise a surfactant, an amino acid complex, and a fiber active complex. The amino acid complex can comprise glutamic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, and histidine. Use of the hair treatment compositions can repair damage to hair protein. For example, use of the hair treatment compositions can repair or replace (e.g., rebuild) hydrogen bonds that may have broken because of damage or stress to the hair. For example, the damage repair can be to repair hydrogen bonds in the hair after use of the hair treatment composition or the damage repair can be to rebuild hydrogen bonds in the hair after use of the hair treatment composition. The hydrogen bonds can be internal cortical. The hydrogen bonds can be external cuticle. For example, the damage repair can be to repair bonds and / or to make hair stronger after just one application of the hair treatment composition. After use of the hair treatment composition, the hair that has been treated can have greater than or equal to 75% less breakage as compared to a non-conditioning shampoo, preferably greater than or equal to 85% less breakage, more preferably greater than or equal to 95% less breakage. The hair treatment compositions can be used to increase the denaturation temperature of the internal protein of hair. The composition can be applied to the hair multiple times (e.g., at least 5 times), to give progressive damage repair, such as more hydrogen bonds repaired or replaced and an increase in the denaturation temperature of the protein. It can be possible to increase the denaturation temperature of the protein to comparable to the same as or higher than that of virgin hair.

[0023] The hair can be virgin hair or damaged hair. Virgin hair as disclosed herein is meant hair that has not been subjected to intensive physical and / or chemical treatment, for example, bleaching, dyeing (color treatment), perming, heat treatment and strong and / or prolonged exposure to solar radiation (ultra-violet exposure); nor displays features characteristic of damaged hair, for example, split ends and / or excessive dryness. Virgin hair includes hair that has sustained low levels of damage during the natural hair life cycle. Sources of low level damage likely include but are not necessarily limited to, washing, brushing, combing, and natural processes such as limited solar photo-degradation, for example. The hair is preferably damaged hair.

[0024] The damage may be caused by mechanical means, for example combing and brushing, chemical means, exposure to heat, environmental means such as sunlight and exposure to damaging energy sources, for example light such as UV light. Chemical means includes treatments that involve an oxidative step, for example, hair lightening, such as bleaching, and coloring treatments. Preferably the hair is bleached, more preferably bleached multiple times.

[0025] The hair can be of any type: straight, wavy, curly, or tight curls or coils. Straight hair (also known as type 1 hair) is sheen and resilient. Straight hair features a fine and fragile texture and is very difficult to curl. Wavy hair (also known as type 2 hair) is where the curls are in a loose “S” pattern. The sheen ranges between straight and curly hair and can have a thin to thick texture. Wavy hair is more likely to become frizzy than type 1 hair. Curly hair (also known as type 3 hair) has loose to corkscrew curls which are typically defined as a “round S”. This type of hair is more likely to become frizzy and is highly damage prone. Lack of proper care for curly hair can cause less defined curls and can appear frizzier. Tight curls or coiled hair (also known as type 4 hair) features tightly coiled, wiry curls (or no visible curl pattern at all). It is very fragile with a high density. Tight curls or coiled hair has a “Z” pattern and typically the hair bends at sharp angles rather than gentle curls as seen in wavy or curly hair. Tight curls or coiled hair often shrinks when wet and because it has fewer cuticle layers than other hair types, it is more susceptible to damage.

[0026] The surfactant in the hair treatment compositions can comprise an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a non-ionic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof. The surfactant can be present in an amount of 1 to 60% by weight, for example, 2 to 50% by weight, for example, 2 to 40% by weight, for example, 2 to 37% by weight, for example, 2 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. The surfactant can differ depending on whether the end use product is a shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, mask, serum, etc.

[0027] The hair treatment composition can be free from the use of sulfate surfactants. Substantially free or essentially free as used herein refers to an amount of less than or equal to 1% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.25% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.1 % by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.01 % by weight, for example, 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0028] Shampoo compositions as disclosed herein are generally aqueous, i.e. , they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major component.

[0029] Desirably, the shampoo composition can comprise 50 to 98%, for example, 55 to 90% water by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0030] Shampoo compositions as disclosed herein will generally comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and desirable for topical application to the hair. Examples of anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.

[0031] In an aspect of the hair treatment composition, the anionic surfactant can comprise sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, alpha olefin sulfonate (AOS) (e.g., sodium alpha olefin sulfonate), or a combination thereof. Such anionic surfactants are commercially available from suppliers like Galaxy Surfactants, Clariant, Sino Lion, Stepan Company, and Innospec. In an embodiment, the hair treatment cleansing composition is essentially free of sulfate.

[0032] Other anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions disclosed herein can include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecyl benzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N- lauryl sarcosinate.

[0033] Further anionic cleansing surfactants can comprise sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (where n is from 10 to 20).

[0034] The anionic surfactant can comprise sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium alpha olefin sulfonate, or a combination thereof.

[0035] Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants can be used. The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant present in shampoo compositions of the hair treatment compositions can be 0.5 to 45%, for example, 1.5 to 35%, for example, 5 to 20%, for example, 12 to 20%, for example, 15 to 20% by total weight anionic cleansing surfactant based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0036] Optionally, a shampoo composition of the hair treatment compositions can comprise further ingredients as described to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability.

[0037] The composition can include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.

[0038] An example of a co-surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount of 0.5 to 8%, preferably 2 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0039] For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo compositions of the hair treatment compositions include condensation products of aliphatic (Cs - C ) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

[0040] Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide.

[0041] Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the hair treatment compositions include alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:

[0042] RO - (G)nwherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group. R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about Cs to about C20. Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of Cs to C12. Most preferably the value of R 9.5 to 10.5. G may be selected from C5 or Cs monosaccharide residues and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose.

[0043] The degree of polymerization, n, may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

[0044] Suitable alkyl polyglycosides are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: ORAMIX™ NS10 ex Seppic; PLANTAREN™ 1200 and PLANTAREN™ 2000 ex Henkel.

[0045] Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in compositions include the C10- C18 N-alkyl (Ci-Ce) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C12-C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in International Patent Application No. WO 1992 / 06154 and U.S. Patent No. 5,194,639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C10-C18 N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.

[0046] A preferred example of a co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount of 0.5 to 20%, for example, 1 to 18% by weight, for example, 5 to 18% by weight, for example, 10 to 18% by weight, for example, 12 to 28% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0047] Amphoteric surfactants (which depending on pH can be zwitterionic) include sodium acyl amphoacetates, sodium acyl amphopropionates, disodium acyl amphodiacetates and disodium acyl amphodipropionates where the acyl (i.e., alkanoyl group) can comprise a C7-C18 alkyl portion. Illustrative examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, or a combination thereof.

[0048] As to the zwitterionic surfactants employed in the present hair treatment composition, such surfactants include at least one acid group. Such an acid group may be a carboxylic or a sulphonic acid group. They often include quaternary nitrogen, and therefore, can be quaternary amino acids. They should generally include an alkyl or alkenyl group of 7 to 18 carbon atoms and generally comply with an overall structural formula:

[0049] R6— [— C(O)— NH(CH2)q— ]r— N+(R7)(R8)-A— B where R6is alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 18 carbon atoms; R7and R8are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; q is 2 to 4; r is 0 to 1 ; A is alkylene of 1 to 3 carbon atoms optionally substituted with hydroxyl, and B is — CO2 — or — SO3 — .

[0050] Desirable zwitterionic surfactants for use in the cleansing composition disclosed herein and within the above general formula include simple betaines of formula:

[0051] R6— N+(R7)(R8)-CH2CO2- and amido betaines of formula:

[0052] R6— CONH(CH2)t— N+(R7)(R8)-CH2CO2- where t is 2 or 3.

[0053] In both formulae R6, R7and R8are as defined previously. R6may, in particular, be a mixture of Ci2and C14 alkyl groups derived from coconut oil so that at least half, preferably at least three quarters of the groups R6have 10 to 14 carbon atoms. R7and R8are preferably methyl.

[0054] A further possibility is that the zwitterionic surfactant is a sulphobetaine of formula:

[0055] R6— N+(R7)(R8)-(CH2)3SO3- or

[0056] R6— CONH(CH2)U— N+(R7)(R8)-(CH2)3SO3- where u is 2 or 3, or variants of these in which — (CH2)3SO3_is replaced by — CH2C(OH)(H)CH2SO3-.

[0057] In these formulae, R6, R7and R8are as previously defined. Illustrative examples of the zwitterionic surfactants desirable for use include betaines such as lauryl betaine, betaine citrate, cocodimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, coco alkyldimethyl betaine, and laurylamidopropyl betaine. An additional zwitterionic surfactant suitable for use includes cocoamidopropyl sultaine, for example, cocam idopropyl hydroxysultaine. Preferred zwitterionic surfactants include lauryl betaine, betaine citrate, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, (carboxymethyl) dimethyl-3-[(1-oxododecyl) amino] propylammonium hydroxide, coco alkyldimethyl betaine, (carboxy methyl) dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoamidopropyl betaine, (carboxymethyl) dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoamidopropyl betaine, (carboxylatomethyl) dimethyl(octadecyl)ammonium, cocam idopropyl hydroxysultaine, or a combination thereof. Most preferred zwitterionic surfactants include cocodimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cocam idopropyl betaine, laurylamidopropyl betaine, cocam idopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, cocamide monoethanolamide, or a combination thereof. Such surfactants are made commercially available from suppliers like Stepan Company, Solvay, Evonik and the like and it is within the scope of the cleansing compositions disclosed herein to employ mixtures of the aforementioned surfactants.

[0058] Mixtures of any of the foregoing amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be utilized. Preferred mixtures are those of cocamidopropyl betaine with further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as described above. A preferred further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoam p hoacetate .

[0059] The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and / or any emulsifier) in a shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition can be 1 to 50% by weight, for example, 2 to 40% by weight, for example, 10 to 40% by weight, for example, 10 to 35% by weight, by total weight surfactant based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0060] Cationic polymers are preferred ingredients in a shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition for enhancing conditioning performance.

[0061] Desirable cationic polymers can be homopolymers which are cationically substituted or may be formed from two or more types of monomers. The weight average (Mw) molecular weight of the polymers can be 100,000 to 2 million Daltons. The polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a combination thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, then the conditioning effect is poor. If too high, then there may be problems of high extensional viscosity leading to stringiness of the composition when it is poured.

[0062] The cationic nitrogen-containing group can generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus, when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give polymers having a cationic charge density in the required range, which is generally from 0.2 to 3.0 milliequivalents per gram (meq / gm). The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined via the Kjeldahl method as described in the US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests for nitrogen determination.

[0063] Desirable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

[0064] The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.

[0065] Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.

[0066] The cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and / or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and / or compatible spacer monomers.

[0067] Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256); cationic polyacrylamides(as described in International Application No. WO 95 / 22311). cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substitute (PQ-10);

[0068] PQ-28 (polyvinyl pyrrolidone-methyacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[0069] Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.

[0070] Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions disclosed herein include monomers of the formula:

[0071] A-O-[R-N+(R1)(R2)(R3)X-], wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R1, R2and R3independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e. , the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R2and R3) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.

[0072] Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from the Amerchol Corporation, for instance under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

[0073] Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,958,581). A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series). Examples of such materials are JAGUAR™ C13S, JAGUAR™ C14, JAGUAR™ C15 and JAGUAR™ C17.

[0074] Mixtures of any of the above cationic polymers may be used.

[0075] Cationic polymer will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the hair treatment compositions at levels of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.05 to 1%, more preferably 0.08 to 0.5% by total weight of cationic polymer based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0076] An aqueous shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition can further comprise a suspending agent. Desirable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impart pearlescence to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as CARBOPOL™ 420, CARBOPOL™ 488 or CARBOPOL™ 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used; they are available commercially as CARBOPOL™ 910, CARBOPOL™ 934, CARBOPOL™ 941 and CARBOPOL™ 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is CARBOPOL™ 1342. All CARBOPOL™ materials are available from Goodrich.

[0077] Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are PEMULEN™ TR1 or PEMULEN™ TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.

[0078] Mixtures of any of the above suspending agents may be used. Preferred is a mixture of crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline long chain acyl derivative. Suspending agents can generally be present in a shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition at levels of 0.1 to 10%, for example, 0.5 to 6%, for example, 0.9 to 4% by total weight of suspending agent based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0079] Conditioners (rinse-off, leave-in, masks, oils, serums)

[0080] Conditioner compositions will typically comprise one or more cationic conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

[0081] Preferably, the cationic conditioning surfactants have the formula N+(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4), wherein R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (Ci to C30) alkyl or benzyl.

[0082] Preferably, one, two or three of R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (C4 to C30) alkyl and the other R1, R2, R3and R4group or groups are (Ci-Ce) alkyl or benzyl.

[0083] More preferably, one or two of R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (Ce to C30) alkyl and the other R1, R2, R3and R4groups are (Ci-Ce) alkyl or benzyl groups. Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-) and / or ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

[0084] The hair treatment compositions can comprise 0.01 to 10 wt % of a primary linear cationic conditioning surfactant, by total weight of the hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein; selected from structure 1 and mixtures thereof

[0085] Structure 1 wherein:

[0086] R1 comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C16 to C24, preferably C18 to C22; R2 comprises a proton or a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C1 to C4, preferably C1 to C2 or a benzyl group; and

[0087] X is an organic or inorganic anion.

[0088] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by from 3 to 12, more preferably from 4 to 12, even more preferably from 6 to 12, most preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 is structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2.

[0089] In structure 1 , the amine head group is charged within the final formulation. Raw materials include, species where the charge is not permanent and can be induced by protonation in the formulation using a strong acid. When R2 is a proton in the above general formulae, the proton may be present in the raw material or become associated during formulation.

[0090] Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-), amido (-NOC- or NCO-), and / or ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

[0091] Suitable quaternary amine salts for use in conditioner compositions are quaternary amine salts comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0092] Suitable quaternary amine salts for use in conditioner compositions include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulphate, behenylAmido Propyl Di-Methyl Amine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, Stearalkonium methosulphate, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride (e.g., Arquad 2HT / 75 from Akzo Nobel), cocotrimethylammonium chloride, or a combination thereof. Preferred quaternary amine salts can be selected from behentrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulphate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or a combination thereof. The behentrimonium chloride can be combined with a solvent (e.g., isopropyl alcohol, dipropylene glycol, etc.) in the compositions.

[0093] The composition can comprise a linear cationic co-surfactant, according to structure 2: 2R

[0094] R3X©'R2X@

[0095] Structure 2 wherein:

[0096] • R2 comprises a proton or a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to C4, preferably Ci to C2 or a benzyl group;

[0097] • R3 comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C3 up to but not including C , preferably C10 to C14; and

[0098] • X is an organic or inorganic anion; wherein the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by at least 3 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 is structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2; and wherein the molar ratio of linear cationic co-surfactant (iv) to linear cationic conditioning primary surfactant (i) is 1 :20 to 1 :1 , preferably 1 :10 to 1 :1 , preferably 1 :5 to 1 :2.

[0099] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by 3 to 12, more preferably 4 to 12, even more preferably 6 to 12, most preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 is structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2.

[0100] R3 comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C3 up to but not including C , preferably C3 to C14, more preferably Ce to C14, even more preferably Cs to C14, most preferably C10 to C14. The linear co-surfactant can be present in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt %, preferably 0.1 to 2, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0, most preferably 0.2 to 0.7 wt % based on the weight of total composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0101] X is an organic or inorganic anion. Preferably, X comprises an anion selected from the halide ions; sulphates of the general formula RSOs', wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and anionic radicals of organic acids.

[0102] Preferred halide ions are selected from fluoride, chloride, bromide and iodide. Preferred anionic radicals of organic acids are selected from maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate and acetate. Preferred sulphates are methanesulphonate and ethanesulphonate.

[0103] Most preferably, X- comprises an anion selected from a halide, a methanesulfonate group and an ethanesulphonate group.

[0104] In a preferred embodiment,

[0105] • R3 comprises linear alkyl chains, saturated or unsaturated, with carbon-carbon chain lengths of from C10 to C14;

[0106] • R2 comprises a proton or an alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to C2; and

[0107] • X is selected from a halide, methanesulphonate and ethanesulphonate.

[0108] An example of a suitable material according to structure 2 is dodecyl-trimethylammonium chloride.

[0109] Suitable cationic conditioning surfactants for use in conditioner compositions according to the hair treatment compositions include comprises a quaternary ammonium, an amine salt, or a combination thereof. The cationic surfactant can comprise behentrimonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof, stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid- amidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and or a combination thereof.

[0110] Further suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. A cationic surfactant for use in conditioners can be cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese. Another cationic surfactant for use in conditioners can be behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN KDMP, ex Clariant.

[0111] Another example of a class of suitable cationic conditioning surfactants, either alone or in admixture with one or more other cationic conditioning surfactants, is a combination of (i) and (ii) below:

[0112] (i) an amidoamine corresponding to the general formula (I): in which R1is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms,

[0113] R2and R3are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains of from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 10; and

[0114] (ii) an acid.

[0115] As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenyl chain. Preferred amidoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) in which

[0116] R1is a hydrocarbyl residue having 11 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0117] R2and R3are each independently hydrocarbyl residues, preferably alkyl groups, having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and m is an integer of 1 to 4.

[0118] Preferably, R2and R3are methyl or ethyl groups.

[0119] Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e. , an ethylene or propylene group.

[0120] Preferred amidoamines useful herein include stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid- amidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, or a combination thereof.

[0121] Particularly preferred amidoamines useful herein are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, or a combination thereof.

[0122] Commercially available amidoamines useful herein include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine with tradenames LEXAMINE™ S-13 available from Index (Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA) and AMIDOAMINE™ MSP available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), stearamidoethyldiethylamine with a tradename AMIDOAMINE™ S available from Nikko, behenamidopropyldimethylamine with a tradename INCROMINE™ BB available from Croda (North Humberside, England), and various amidoamines with tradenames SCHERCODINE™ series available from Scher (Clifton, New Jersey, USA).

[0123] Acid (ii) may be any organic or mineral acid which is capable of protonating the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition. Suitable acids useful herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] The primary role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition thus forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ in the hair treatment composition. The TAS in effect is a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

[0125] Suitably, the acid is included in a sufficient amount to protonate all the amidoamine present, i.e., at a level which is at least equimolar to the amount of amidoamine present in the composition.

[0126] In conditioners of the hair treatment compositions, the level of cationic conditioning surfactant can be 0.01 to 10%, for example, 0.05 to 7.5%, for example, 0.1 to 6% for example, 1 to 6% by total weight of cationic conditioning surfactant based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0127] Conditioners will typically also incorporate a fatty alcohol. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

[0128] Representative fatty alcohols comprise 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Examples of desirable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a combination thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of hair treatment compositions.

[0129] The level of fatty alcohol in conditioners as disclosed herein can be 0.01 to 10%, for example, 0.1 to 8%, for example, 0.2 to 7%, for example, 0.3 to 6% by weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol can be 1 :1 to 1:10, for example, 1:1.5 to 1:8, for example, 1:2 to 1 :5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from the composition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky for some consumers.

[0130] Amino Acid The hair treatment compositions can include an amino acid that can be a basic amino acid, an acidic amino acid, an aliphatic amino acid, an aromatic amino acid, a neutral amino acid, or a combination thereof. The term “amino acid” denotes a molecule containing both an amino group and a carboxyl group. The amino acid may belong to the L- or D-series or may be racemic.

[0131] The total amount of amino acid present in the hair treatment composition can be 0.005 to 10% by weight, for example, 0.05 to 2%, for example, 0.1 to 1.5% by total weight amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0132] Basic Amino Acid

[0133] The hair treatment compositions can comprise a basic amino acid.

[0134] The term “basic amino acid” denotes an amino acid which contains more basic groups (such as amino, amidino or guanidino) than carboxylic groups. Examples of such basic amino acids are natural and unnatural diamino-monocarboxylic acids, such as alpha, beta-diaminopropionic acid; alpha, gamma-diaminobutyric acid; lysine, arginine, histidine, ornithine, and p-aminophenylalanine.

[0135] The basic amino acids are often isolated from natural sources in the form of salts and hydrosalts, which are also suitable for use. Such salts and hydrosalts are formed by reaction with mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid, sulphuric acid, nitric acid, and the like, or the organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, chloroacetic acid and the like. An example is arginine hydrochloride.

[0136] It is also possible to employ other derivatives such as N-substituted derivatives and peptide derivatives. These too may be used as salts or hydrosalts. Examples of N-substituted derivatives are N-alkanoyl derivatives and N-alkyl derivatives. Typically, in an N-alkanoyl derivative, the alkanoyl group will have an alkyl chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example N-butanoyl, N-hexanoyl and N-octanoyl. In an N-alkyl derivative, the alkyl group will typically have an alkyl chain length of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl and n-propyl. Examples of peptide derivatives are those in which the peptide residue comprises from 2 to 8 amino acid residues or substituted amino acid residues.

[0137] Mixtures of any of the above-described materials may also be used in the hair treatment composition. Preferred basic amino acids for use in the hair treatment compositions include arginine (e.g., L- arginine), histidine (e.g., L-histidine), or a combination thereof.

[0138] The total amount of basic amino acid in hair treatment compositions can be 0.005 to 10%, for example, 0.05 to 1%, for example, 0.1 to 0.4% by total weight basic amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0139] Acidic Amino Acid

[0140] The hair treatment compositions can comprise an acidic amino acid. Acidic amino acids are those with acidic side chains, specifically containing carboxylic acid groups with pKa measurements low enough to lose protons and become negatively charged. Acidic amino acids are also by their nature hydrophilic amino acids (meaning they like water, as opposed to hydrophobic amino acids), and polar amino acids (meaning they are positively charged, as opposed to nonpolar amino acids).

[0141] The acidic amino acid can comprise aspartic acid, glutamic acid (e.g., L-glutamic acid), or a combination thereof.

[0142] The total amount of acidic amino acid in the hair treatment compositions can be from 0.005 to 10%, for example, 0.1 to 0.4%, for example, 0.1 to 0.3% by total weight acidic amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0143] Aliphatic Amino Acid

[0144] The hair treatment compositions can comprise an aliphatic amino acid.

[0145] The term “aliphatic amino acid” denotes an amino acid having an aliphatic side chain.

[0146] Examples of suitable aliphatic amino acids for use have the general formula: CH(COOH)(NHR1)(R2) in which R1 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having an alkyl chain length of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0147] In preferred aliphatic amino acids for use, R1 is an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R2 is selected from H, — CH3, — CH(CH3)2, — CH2CH(CH3)2 and — CH(CH3)— CH2CH3. The aliphatic amino acid can comprise alanine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, valine, or a combination thereof.

[0148] Mixtures of any of the above-described materials may also be used in the hair treatment compositions.

[0149] The total amount of aliphatic amino acid in the hair treatment compositions can be from 0.005 to 10%, for example, 0.1 to 0.4% by total weight aliphatic amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0150] Aromatic Amino Acid

[0151] The hair treatment compositions can comprise an aromatic amino acid. Aromatic amino acids (AAAs) are amino acids that include an aromatic ring.

[0152] The aromatic amino acid can comprise phenylalanine, tryptophan, tyrosine, or a combination thereof.

[0153] The total amount of aromatic amino acid in the hair treatment compositions can be from 0.005 to 10%, for example, 0.1 to 0.4% by total weight aromatic amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0154] Neutral Amino Acid

[0155] The hair treatment compositions can comprise a neutral amino acid. Neutral amino acids contain an equal number of amino and carboxyl groups.

[0156] The neutral amino acid can comprise asparagine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, serine, threonine, or a combination thereof. A preferred material can be N-methyl glycine (also known as sarcosine).

[0157] The total amount of neutral amino acid in the hair treatment compositions can be from 0.005 to 10%, for example, 0.1 to 5%, for example, 0.1 to 2%, for example, 0.1 to 1%, for example, 0.1 to 0.5% by total weight neutral amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0158] Fiber Active A fiber active can be present in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein. Fiber actives can penetrate into the hair fiber to occlude water adsorption sites by steric means. The ability to lower the moisture content can result in higher biomechanical properties, e.g., stronger hair. This mechanism works best at low pH due to have optimum penetration into the hair fiber. The smaller the molecule, the better the penetration. For example, carboxylic acid-citric acid can penetrate the hair and bind with matrix proteins thereby swelling and increasing smoother hair and less frizz. The same can be true with gluconolactone which converts to gluconic acid. The fiber actives penetrate into the hair fiber and influence changes such as modifying the proteins or creating internal bonds and can also provide for increased fiber stiffness. Acids such as fiber actives have an affinity for hair and can reduce water uptake by blocking sites where water would otherwise adsorb.

[0159] The fiber active can comprise gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, adipic acid, or a combination thereof. The gluconic acid can comprise sodium gluconate and the citric acid can comprise sodium citrate.

[0160] The fiber active can be present in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, for example, 0.05 to 4.0% by weight, for example, 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, for example, 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0161] Form of Composition

[0162] The hair treatment compositions can take the form of a shampoo, conditioner (rinse-off, leavein), mask, serum, pre-treatment composition, or a hair oil, for pre-wash or post-wash use. Typically, hair oils will predominantly comprise water-insoluble oily conditioning materials, such as triglycerides, mineral oil and mixtures thereof.

[0163] The hair treatment compositions can also take the form of a hair lotion, typically for use in between washes. Lotions are aqueous emulsions comprising water-insoluble oily conditioning materials. Desirable surfactants can also be included in lotions to improve their stability to phase separation.

[0164] The hair treatment composition can be in the form of a shampoo, a rinse-off hair conditioner, a hair mask, a leave-in conditioner composition, and a pre-treatment composition. The hair treatment composition can have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably, 3 to 6, more preferably, 3 to 5. Hair treatment compositions, particularly water-based shampoos and hair conditioners can also contain one or more silicone conditioning agents.

[0165] Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are silicone emulsions such as those formed from silicones such as polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol, and amino-functional polydimethyl siloxanes which have the CTFA designation amodimethicone.

[0166] The emulsion droplets may typically have a Sauter mean droplet diameter (Ds,2) in the composition of 0.01 to 20 micrometers (pm), more preferably 0.2 to 10 pm.

[0167] A suitable method for measuring the Sauter mean droplet diameter (Ds,2) is by laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvern Mastersizer.

[0168] Suitable silicone emulsions for use in compositions as disclosed herein are available from suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier such as an anionic or nonionic emulsifier, or mixture thereof, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerization, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer. Pre-formed silicone emulsions having a Sauter mean droplet diameter (Ds,2) of less than 0.15 micrometers are generally termed microemulsions.

[0169] Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions / microemulsions of dimethiconol. Also suitable are amodimethicone emulsions such as DC2-8177 and DC939 (from Dow Corning) and SME253 (from GE Silicones).

[0170] Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which certain types of surface active block copolymers of a high molecular weight have been blended with the silicone emulsion droplets, as described for example in International Application No. WO 2003 / 094874. In such materials, the silicone emulsion droplets are preferably formed from polydiorganosiloxanes such as those described above. One preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula:

[0171] HO(CH2CH2O)x(CH(CH3)CH2O)y(CH2CH2O)xH wherein the mean value of x is 4 or more and the mean value of y is 25 or more.

[0172] Another preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula:

[0173] (HO(CH2CH2O)a(CH(CH3)CH2O)b)2-N-CH2-CH2-N((OCH2CH(CH3))b(OCH2CH2)a OH)2wherein the mean value of a is 2 or more and the mean value of b is 6 or more.

[0174] Mixtures of any of the above-described silicone emulsions may also be used.

[0175] The above-described silicone emulsions will generally be present in a composition as disclosed herein at levels of 0.05 to 10%, for example, 0.05 to 5%, for example, 0.5 to 2% by total weight of silicone based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0176] Other Ingredients

[0177] Hair treatment compositions can comprise other ingredients for enhancing performance and / or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrances, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobials. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally, these optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 5% by weight of the total composition.

[0178] Hair treatment compositions are primarily intended for topical application to the hair and / or scalp of a human subject, either in rinse-off or leave-in compositions, for the treatment of dry, damaged and / or unmanageable hair.

[0179] The hair treatment composition can additionally include up to 30% by weight skin benefit agents. The term “skin benefit agent” is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both, and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content. Included among the suitable skin benefit agents are emollients, including, for example, hydrophobic emollients, hydrophilic emollients, or blends thereof. Preferred benefit agents include moisturizers, emollients, sunscreens, and anti-aging compounds.

[0180] Desirably the optional skin benefit agents used in the hair treatment composition disclosed herein include niacinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol (Vitamin E), aloe vera, alpha-hydroxy acids and esters, beta-hydroxy acids and esters, hydroxyethyl urea, polyhydroxy acids and esters, creatine, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, mulberry, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof (including, but not limited to, Na+ and K+ salts of the same), extract, liquorice extract, resorcinol derivatives, or a combination thereof. For example, the skin benefit agent can be sodium hyaluronate. Such benefit agents, including sodium hyaluronate can be present in an amount of 0.0001 to 10%, for example, 0.001 to 6.5%, for example, 0.01 to 3.5%, and for example, 0.01% by weight, based on total weight of the hair treatment composition including all values and ranges subsumed therein.

[0181] Further optional water-soluble skin benefit agents include acids, such as amino acids like arginine, valine or histidine. Other vitamins can be used such as vitamin B2, picolinamide, panthenol (vitamin B5), vitamin Be, vitamin C, a combination thereof or the like. Derivatives (generally meaning something that has developed or been obtained from something else), and especially, water soluble derivatives of such vitamins can also be employed. For instance, vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glycoside may be used alone or in combination with each other. Niacinamide derivatives such as nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NADH) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADPH) may be used alone or in combination with each other. Other skin benefit agents that can be used include 4-ethyl resorcinol, extracts like sage, aloe vera, green tea, sugar cane, citrus, grapeseed, thyme, chamomile, yarrow, cucumber, liquorice, rosemary extract, or a combination thereof. Electrolytes such as NaCI and / or KOI, MgCh may also be used. The total amount of optional water-soluble benefit agents (including mixtures) when present in the composition disclosed herein can be 0.0001 to 10%, preferably, 0.001 to 6.5%, and most preferably, 0.01 to 3.5% by weight, based on total weight of the hair treatment composition, including all values and ranges subsumed therein. It is also within the scope of the hair treatment composition to optionally include oil soluble benefit agents. Illustrative examples of the types of oil soluble benefit agents that can optionally be used in the hair treatment composition disclosed herein include components like stearic acid, vitamins like vitamin A, D, E and K (and their oil soluble derivatives).

[0182] Other optional oil soluble benefit agents for use include resorcinols and resorcinol derivatives like 4-hexyl resorcinol, 4-phenylethyl resorcinol, 4-cyclopentyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol

[0183] 4-isopropyl resorcinol or a combination thereof. Also, 5-substituted resorcinols like 4-cyclohexyl-

[0184] 5-methylbenzene-1 ,3-diol, 4-isopropyl-5-methylbenzene-1 ,3-diol, combination thereof or the like may be used. The 5-substituted resorcinols and their synthesis are described in commonly assigned U.S. Published Patent Application No. 2016 / 0000669A1.

[0185] Even other oil soluble benefit agents that can be used include omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 fatty acids, climbazole, magnolol, honokiol, farnesol, ursolic acid, myristic acid, geranyl geraniol, oleyl betaine, cocoyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, hexanoyl sphingosine, 12- hydroxy stearic acid (12HSA), petroselinic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, terpineol, thymol essential components, the dissolution auxiliary selected from limonene, pinene, camphene, cymene, citronellol, citronellal, geraniol, nerol, linalool, rhodinol, borneol, isoborneol, menthone, camphor, safrole, isosafrole, eugenol, isoeugenol, tea tree oil, eucalyptus oil, peppermint oil, neem oil, lemon grass oil, orange oil, bergamot oil, or a combination thereof.

[0186] Another optional oil soluble benefit agent that may be used is a retinoic acid precursor. The retinoic acid precursor can be retinol, retinal, retinyl ester, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate or a combination thereof. Retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate and combinations thereof are typically preferred. Still another retinoic acid precursor for use is hydroxyanasatil retinoate made commercially available under the name RETEXTRA® as supplied by Molecular Design International. The same may be used in a combination with any of the oil soluble benefit agents described herein.

[0187] When an optional (i.e., 0.0 to 1.5% by weight) oil soluble benefit agent is used in the hair treatment composition, it typically is present in an amount of 0.001 to 1 .5% by weight of the overall hair treatment composition including all values and ranges subsumed therein, and for example, 0.05 to 1 .2% by weight, for example, 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment composition. Other useful skin benefit agents include the following:

[0188] (a) silicone oils and modifications thereof such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone oils;

[0189] (b) fats and oils including natural fats and oils such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, and mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow and lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned oils; and synthetic mono, di and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride;

[0190] (c) waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin, and derivatives thereof;

[0191] (d) hydrophobic and hydrophilic plant extracts;

[0192] (e) hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil;

[0193] (f) higher fatty acids such as lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, lanolic, isostearic, arachidonic and poly unsaturated fatty acids (PLIFA);

[0194] (g) higher alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, cholesterol and 2-hexydecanol alcohol;

[0195] (h) esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate;

[0196] (i) essential oils and extracts thereof such as mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citrus unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove, hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemon grass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grapeseed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, elder flower, geranium, linden blossom, amaranth, seaweed, ginko, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oatmeal, cocoa, neroli, vanilla, green tea, penny royal, aloe vera, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, Citronelle, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirantol, penene, limonene and terpenoid oils;

[0197] (j) polyhydric alcohols, for example, glycerine, sorbitol, propylene glycol, and the like; and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols, examples of which are: Polyox WSR-205 PEG 14M, Polyox WSR-N-60K PEG 45M, or Polyox WSR-N-750, and PEG 7M;

[0198] (k) lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudo-ceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957;

[0199] (l) vitamins, minerals, and skin nutrients such as milk, vitamins A, E, and K; vitamin alkyl esters, including vitamin C alkyl esters; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components;

[0200] (m) sunscreens such as octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789);

[0201] (n) phospholipids; and

[0202] (o) anti-aging compounds such as alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids.

[0203] Preferred skin benefit agents include fatty acids, hydrocarbons, polyhydric alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof, with emollients that include at least one C12 to C fatty acid, petrolatum, glycerol, sorbitol, and / or propylene glycol being of particular interest in one or more embodiments. The agents may be added at an appropriate step during the process of making the hair treatment compositions. Some benefit agents may be introduced as macro domains.

[0204] Other optional ingredients like antioxidants, perfumes, polymers, chelating agents, colorants, deodorants, dyes, enzymes, foam boosters, germicides, anti-microbials, lathering agents, pearlescers, skin conditioners, stabilizers, or superfatting agents, may be added in suitable amounts in the process of making the bars. Preferably, the ingredients are added after the saponification step. Sodium metabisulphite, ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid (EDTA), borax, or ethylene hydroxy diphosphonic acid (EH DP) can be added to the formulation. Additional optional ingredients which may be present in the hair treatment composition compositions are, for example: fragrances; sequestering and chelating agents such as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), ethane hydroxyl diphosphonate (EHDP), and etidronic acid, aka 1-hydroxyethylidene diphosphonic acid (HEDP); coloring agents; opacifiers, and pearlizers such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, TiC>2, ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS), ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS) or Lytron 621 (Styrene / Acrylate copolymer), and the like; pH adjusters; antioxidants, for example, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and the like; stabilizers; suds boosters, such as for example, coconut acyl mono- or diethanol amides; ionizing salts, such as, for example, sodium chloride and sodium sulfate, and other ingredients such as are conventionally used in hair treatment composition compositions. The total amount of such additional optional ingredients is typically from 0 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the personal cleansing formulation.

[0205] Preservatives can be used in the hair treatment composition disclosed herein. Illustrative preservatives for use include sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerine, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, dimethyl-dimethyl (DM DM) hydantoin, and benzyl alcohol, or a combination thereof. Other preservatives suitable for use include sodium dehydroacetate, chlorophenesin, and decylene glycol. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts of 0.01 % to 2.0% by weight of the total weight of hair treatment composition, including all values and ranges subsumed therein. Also preferred is a preservative system with hydroxyacetophenone alone or in a mixture with other preservatives.

[0206] Fragrances, fixatives, opacifiers (like titanium dioxide or glycol distearate), and chelating agents may optionally be included in the hair treatment composition. Possible chelating agents include, but are not limited to, ethylyene diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylene diamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate, trisodium N-(hydroxyethyl)-ethylenediaminetracetate, an acid form of EDTA, sodium thiocynate, trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and phytic acid, preferably wherein the chelating agent is ethylene diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylene diamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), or a combination thereof. Each of these substances may be present in an amount of about 0.03 to about 3% by weight of the overall hair treatment composition, preferably, about 0.1 to about 2.6% by weight, including any and all values and ranges subsumed therein. The hair treatment composition can comprise a poly electrolyte complex. The polyelectrolyte complex can comprise a polyquaternium and a methacrylate copolymer.

[0207] The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein can be free from or substantially free from sulfate, parabens, phthalate, and / or petrolatum.

[0208] Methods of treating hair are contemplated with the disclosed hair treatment compositions. A method of treating hair can include applying the hair treatment composition as disclosed herein in the form of a shampoo to hair. The hair can be straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled. The hair can be virgin hair or damaged hair. The damage can be any of the damage types disclosed herein, including bleaching. The shampoo can be rinsed from the hair after a time period of less than 5 minutes and then a hair treatment composition as disclosed herein in the form of a conditioner can be applied to the same hair. The conditioner can be rinsed from the hair after a period of time of less than 5 minutes. A leave-in conditioner as disclosed herein can be applied to the same hair and rinsed from the hair after a time period of less than or equal to 1 hour. The hair can then be dried (e.g., air dried, blow dried, etc.) for at least 8 hours at 60% relative humidity. The above described method can be repeated for up to 20 times on the same hair.

[0209] In another method, any shampoo and conditioner can be used before application of the hair treatment composition disclosed herein on straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled hair.

[0210] In another method, a method of treating hair can include applying the hair treatment composition as disclosed herein in the form of a shampoo to hair. The hair can be straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled. The hair can be virgin hair or damaged hair. The damage can be any of the damage types disclosed herein, including bleaching. The shampoo can be rinsed from the hair after a time period of less than 5 minutes and then a hair treatment composition as disclosed herein in the form of a conditioner can be applied to the same hair. The conditioner can be rinsed from the hair after a period of time of less than 5 minutes. A leave-in conditioner as disclosed herein can be applied to the same hair. The hair can then be dried (e.g., air dried, blow dried, etc.) for at least 8 hours at 60% relative humidity. The above described method can be repeated for up to 20 times on the same hair.

[0211] In another method, any shampoo and conditioner can be used before application of the hair treatment composition disclosed herein on straight, wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled hair. The technical properties of hair change dramatically as a function of moisture content. This occurs because water solvates secondary strength-supporting hydrogen bonds and salt bridges within the hair, which produces a decrease in mechanical properties and a swelling of fiber dimensions. Water acts as a plasticizer to protein structures in hair, reducing its resistance to breakage. The adsorption of water onto hair proteins leads to breakage of hydrogen bonds. Styling is a result of hydrogen bond building / repair such that if the hydrogen bonds are broken the hairs biomechanical properties and ability to style are hindered.

[0212] In either method, it was unexpectedly found that hydrogen bonds were rebuilt in the hair after completion of the method, hydrogen bonds were repaired in the hair after completion of the method, or hydrogen bonds were rebuilt and repaired in the hair application completion of the method disclosed herein (either method).

[0213] The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein can give damage repair benefits to damaged hair, chemically or mechanically. The hair can be of any type.

[0214] For example, gluconolactone (which converts to gluconic acid) and carboxylic acid (e.g., citric acid) penetrate into the hair fibers to occlude water adsorption by steric means. Water is a plasticizer of hair, therefore the ability to lower the moisture content should result in higher biomechanical properties. Acids have an affinity for hair and they reduce water uptake (water breaks hydrogen bonds) by binding blocking sites where water would otherwise adsorb.

[0215] The inclusion of amino acids in the hair treatment compositions can assist in rebuilding peptide linkages which support the protein structures. The basic side groups on arginine, histidine and lysine, and the acidic side groups on aspartic acid and glutamic acid can help to construct tertiary and quaternary protein structures.

[0216] The use of the hair treatment composition can provide long lasting damage repair, for example, an increase in the denaturation temperature of protein or for example, repairing of hydrogen bonds or replacement of hydrogen bonds. By long lasting means that the benefit lasts for multiple treatments, preferably from 2 to 5 treatments, when compared with a hair composition that does not comprise the amino acid mixture as disclosed herein. The hair treatment compositions can be applied to the hair a minimum of 1 time. The hair treatment compositions can be applied to the hair 1 time to 5 times, for example, 1 time to 10 times, for example, 1 time to 20 times, for example, 1 time to 25 times.

[0217] It was unexpectedly found that after one use of the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein, the hair has greater than or equal to 75% less breakage as compared to a nonconditioning shampoo, preferably greater than or equal to 85% less breakage, more preferably greater than or equal to 95% less breakage as compared to hair not treated with the hair treatment composition disclosed herein (using either method disclosed herein).

[0218] An increase in the denaturation temperature of the internal protein of hair was observed after using the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein.

[0219] The hair treatment composition increases moisturization of the hair by greater than or equal to 50%, preferably greater than or equal to 60, more preferably, greater than or equal to 50% to greater than or equal to 90% as compared to a non-conditioning shampoo used on the same hair.

[0220] The hair treatment composition provides frizz control for greater than or equal to 6 hours, preferably greater than or equal to 12 hours, more preferably, greater than or equal to 24 hours.

[0221] Except where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and / or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about.” All amounts are by weight of the final composition, unless otherwise specified.

[0222] It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration or amount, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount as well as any subranges consumed therein. In that regard, it is noted that all ranges disclosed herein are inclusive of the endpoints, and the endpoints are independently combinable with each other (e.g., ranges of “up to 25% by weight, or, more specifically, 5% by weight to 20% by weight, in inclusive of the endpoints and all intermediate values of the ranges of 5% by weight to 25% by weight, etc.). “Combination is inclusive of blends, mixtures, alloys, reaction products, and the like. Furthermore, the terms “first”, “second”, and the like herein do not denote any order, quantity, or importance, but rather are used to distinguish one element from another. The terms “a” and “an” and “the” herein do not denote a limitation of quantity and are to be construed to cover both the singular and the plural, unless otherwise indicated herein or clearly contradicted by context. The suffix “(s)” as used herein is intended to include both the singular and the plural of the term it modifies, thereby including one or more of the term (e.g., the film(s) includes one or more films). Reference throughout the specification to “one embodiment”, “one aspect”, “another embodiment”, “another aspect”, “an embodiment”, “an aspect” and so forth means that a particular element (e.g., feature, structure, and / or characteristic) described in connection with the embodiment or aspect is included in at least one embodiment or aspect described herein and may or may not be present in other embodiments or aspects. In addition, it is to be understood that the described elements may be combined in any suitable manner in the various embodiments or aspects.

[0223] All cited patents, patent applications, and other references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. However, if a term in the present application contradicts or conflicts with a term in the incorporated reference, the term from the present application takes precedence over the conflicting term from the incorporated reference. While particular aspects have been described, alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents that are or may be presently unforeseen may arise to applicants or others skilled in the art. Accordingly, the appended claims as filed and as they may be amended are intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents.

[0224] For the avoidance of doubt the word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of” or “composed of.” In other words, the listed steps, options, or alternatives need not be exhaustive.

[0225] The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all aspects as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy. Unless otherwise specified, numerical ranges expressed in the format "from x to y" are understood to include x and y. In specifying any range of values or amounts, any particular upper value or amount can be associated with any particular lower value or amount. All percentages and ratios contained herein are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. The various features of the present invention referred to in individual sections above apply, as appropriate, to other sections mutatis mutandis. Consequently, features specified in one section may be combined with features specified in other sections as appropriate. Any section headings are added for convenience only and are not intended to limit the disclosure in any way.

[0226] Examples The following examples are merely illustrative of the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein and are not intended to limit the scope hereof.

[0227] Example I

[0228] In this example, three sets of type 1 hair were double bleached, a control sample (ConS) subjected to no treatment, comparative samples (CompSI and CompS2) subjected to a two- step system of shampoo, conditioner, and an inventive sample (IS) subjected to a three-step system of shampoo, conditioners, and leave-in conditioner using the formulations as disclosed herein and shown in Tales 1, 2, and 3. Table 1: Shampoo Composition Table 2: Conditioner Composition

[0229] Table 3: Leave-in conditioner Composition

[0230] Tress Breakage The hair tresses were commercially obtained from International Hair Importers reflecting two years of chemical damage. The ConS sample was washed with non-conditioning shampoo. CompSI CompS2 samples were washed with a different commercially available shampoo and conditioner. The IS was subjected to shampoo and conditioning as disclosed in Tables 1 and 2. Each sample was then combed through 1,000 times in from wet to dry stage and overall breakage measured (as a function of the 1,000 combs through the sample). Results for the shampoo and conditioner are shown in Table 4. Table 4: Shampoo and Conditioner Hair Breakage

[0231] As can be seen from Table 4, the inventive samples had a marked decrease in the number of hair breakages as compared to ConS, CompSI , and CompS2, indicating that even use of just the shampoo and conditioner disclosed herein provides for excellent protection of hair after damage.

[0232] In Table 5, the samples were subjected to a shampoo and conditioner and then the leave-in conditioner as shown in Table 3 was applied to the hair and not rinsed off. It is to be noted that in the three-part the system, the shampoo and conditioner used can be any shampoo and conditioner and do not have to be those disclosed in Tables 1 and 2.

[0233] Table 5: Shampoo, Conditioner, and Leave-in conditioner Bond Breakage

[0234] As can be seen from Table 5, the three-part system provided even less breakage compared to the control sample with 96% less breakage.

[0235] Denaturization Temperature

[0236] Treatment of the Hair

[0237] Double bleached hair of Samples C1, 1, and 2 were first treated twice with an aqueous composition containing 14% Sodium Laureth Ether Sulphate (SLES) at 0.1 ml / 1g hair using 30 seconds lathering and 30 seconds rinse in tap water. Virgin hair was also tested.

[0238] Sample 1 was then treated with the compositions of Tables 1 and 2 using the following method: 0.1 ml / 1g hair for 30 seconds lathering and 30 seconds rinse in tap water.

[0239] Sample 2 was then treated with the composition of Table 3 as follows: 0.2m 1 / 1 g hair for 60 seconds application and a 60 seconds rinse in tap water.

[0240] The hair tresses were then left to dry overnight at 20°C, 60% relative humidity.

[0241] Effect of Treatment

[0242] The effect of the treatments was measured using Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC).

[0243] Table 6: Mean denaturation temperatures and change in denaturation temperature based on one use (1X)

[0244] As can be seen from Table 6, Sample 1 (Shampoo and Conditioner Only) showed an increase in temperature at which the Keratin Protein denaturizes versus C1 treated with only NonConditioning Shampoo demonstrating that the formulations had a positive effect on the protein structure and integrity with continued use. Sample 2 (Leave in conditioner only) also showed an increase in the denaturization temperature of the Keratin Protein vs Non-Conditioning Shampoo. The leave in also gave a positive effect on the protein structure and integrity.

[0245] Similar results were seen when the wash was repeated five times (5X) and 10 times (10X) as seen in Table 7.

[0246] As can be seen from Table 7, Sample 1 (Shampoo and Conditioner Only) showed an increase in temperature at which the Keratin Protein denaturizes versus C1 treated with only NonConditioning Shampoo demonstrating that the formulations had a positive effect on the protein structure and integrity with continued use. Sample 2 (Leave in conditioner only) also showed an increase in the denaturization temperature of the Keratin Protein vs Non-Conditioning Shampoo. The leave in also gave a positive effect on the protein structure and integrity. Table 7: Mean denaturation temperatures and change in denaturation temperature based on five washes (5X) and 10 washes (10X)

[0247] Example II

[0248] ATR-FTIR Surface Analysis

[0249] In this example, the impact of specific hair treatments on the hydrogen bonding network on or inside hair fibers was investigated through attenuated total reflection (ATR) spectroscopy and / or ATR-Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy.

[0250] The ATR-FTIR data was recorded with a spotlight system 400 from PerkinElmer with an ATR accessory. The spectra were recorded with the following spectral parameters:

[0251] Spectral Resolution 8 inverse centimeters (cm-1)

[0252] 256 scans accumulation

[0253] Range 4000 - 650 cm-1

[0254] For every hair tress that was examined:

[0255] 12 scans were taken along the length of the tress (4 near the root, 4 along the middle, and 4 near the tip).

[0256] A control sample was mixed race bleached hair untreated.

[0257] Sample analysis was the tress treated with the hair treatment composition disclosed herein. The spectra collected for a hair tress was averaged and analyzed for peak position and second derivative spectra using Thermo Scientific GRAMS spectroscopic analysis software.

[0258] The hyperspectral images were recorded with the following spectral parameters:

[0259] For control and treated samples, approximately 10 cross-sections of 6-8 micrometers (pm) were obtained through means of a cryostat.

[0260] ATF-FTIR Imaging Parameters

[0261] Spatial resolution was 6.25 pm

[0262] Spectral resolution was 8 cm-1

[0263] 64 scans accumulation

[0264] Hair Treatment Protocol:

[0265] Medium brown bleached hair tresses supplied by International Hair Importers and prepared by TRI were used per treatment group. Each tress was 8 inches long, 1 inch wide, and weight approximately 3g.

[0266] 1. All 4 Tresses were bleached and standardized with 0.15ml of a non-conditioning shampoo, massaged, and rinsed under intellifaucet water for 30 seconds each.

[0267] 2. 50 fibers from each tress were saved as a control for cross-sectioning.

[0268] 3. Shampoo and Conditioner: On damp hair 10% w / v to hair of Scarlet Shampoo was lathered on the hair tresses for 30 seconds, and then rinsed under intellifaucet water for 30 seconds each. On damp hair 15% w / v of Scarlet Conditioner was combed through the hair 10 times, left on the hair 3 minutes, and then rinsed under intellifaucet water for 30 seconds each.

[0269] Leave-in: On damp hair 5.0% w / v of Scarlet Leave-in #1 was applied to hair tresses. The formulation was combed through the hair 10 times and left to dry on the hair for 1 hour and then rinsed off with 0.15ml of a non-conditioning shampoo.

[0270] 4. Hair was left to dry overnight at 60% relative humidity after 5X treatment.

[0271] 5. Steps 1- 3 were repeated 4 times for a total of 5 cycles. The hair tresses were blow dried on low heat for 10 minutes in between cycles 2-4 to ensure they were dry.

[0272] 6. Hair was left to dry overnight at 60% relative humidity after 5X treatments.

[0273] 7. Retain 50 fibers for cross-sectioning.

[0274] System 1: Shampoo + Conditioner (as disclosed in Tables 9 and 10)

[0275] System 2: Leave-in Conditioner c Tests were conducted after 5x application.

[0276] Hair samples tested were:

[0277] 1. Control - untreated hair (bleached medium brown hair)

[0278] 2. Hair (bleached medium brown hair) treated 5X with Shampoo and Conditioner (as disclosed in Tables 9 and 10).

[0279] 3. Hair (bleached medium brown hair) treated 5X with Leave-In (as disclosed in Tables 9 and 10).

[0280] ATR-FTIR analysis - Hair surface analysis

[0281] Table 8 displays band positions from the measurements conducted for the control, shampoo and conditioner (SH + CD), and leave-in conditioner for the averaged surface ATR scans. (The surface ATR scans characterized mainly the cuticle). The bands used to characterize both the contribution of hydrogen bonding and change in protein conformation were the Amide A band (-3726 cm-1), arising mostly from the N-H2 stretch, which displayed the band shift resulting from hydrogen bonding independent from protein conformation, Amide I, and Amide II. Both Amide I and Amide II were diagnostic of both protein backbone conformation and hydrogen bonding as well as environmental contributions. As the Amide I band (-1640 cm-1) contributions were largely C=O stretch from the protein backbone and the Amide II band (-1530 cm-1) contributions were mostly due to C-N stretching, these bands displayed different sensitivities to hydrogen bonding and protein environment. Also displayed is the C-H stretching region of the IR spectrum which is valuable in determining if residual product persists after washing.

[0282] Table 8: Amide Band Positions from ATR-FTIR Measurements The Amide A shift from the control surface for both SH + CD (System 1) and leave-in (System 2) treated surfaces was a comparable wavenumber for the control, SH + CD, and leave-in. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it was believed that the comparable numbers were due merely to residues left on the cuticle by the two treatments, whereby without the residues, lower wavenumbers would have been observed for System 1 and System 2.

[0283] There was a slight shift to a lower wavenumber for the control 2ndderivative to System 1 to System 2.

[0284] From Table 8:

[0285] No significant modification in the hydrogen bounding was observed with both hair treatments (System 1 and System 2).

[0286] There is a slight shift to lower wavenumber in the Amide I (0.2 cm-1 total) for the treatments compared to the control.

[0287] From second derivative spectra the a-helices shift slightly to lower wavenumber than the control.

[0288] Amide II 2nd derivative shifts do not display a particular trend.

[0289] A significant build-up was observed with these hair treatments and especially the leave-in treatment which can significantly affect the spectroscopic analysis (surface analysis).

[0290] ATR-FTIR imaging spectroscopy - hair cross-sections analysis

[0291] The same treatments have also been applied to fibers that were cross sectioned.

[0292] System 1: SH + CD

[0293] A general drop in wave number for the Amide A band was observed, which indicated an increase in hydrogen bonding with System 1 (e.g., from 3305 cm-1to 3290 cm-1).

[0294] System 2: Leave-In Conditioner

[0295] A general drop in wave number for the Amide A band was observed, which indicated an increase in hydrogen bonding with System 2 (e.g., from 3310 cm-1to 3280 cm-1).

[0296] The visualization of the cross-section hyperspectral images for both System 1 and System 2 showed that there was a shift to lower wavenumbers for the Amide A band. This shift indicated the formation of hydrogen bond networks. The Amide I band increased slightly in wavenumber, the Amide II band in both System 1 and System 2 decreased slightly in wavenumber as well as showed a change in the ratio of 1548 / 1512 cm-1which indicated structural modifications inside the human hair fibers related to these hair treatments.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Use of a hair treatment composition comprising an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a non-ionic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof; an amino acid complex comprising glutamic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, and histidine; and 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of a fiber active based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, wherein the fiber active is selected from gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, adipic acid, or a combination thereof; preferably wherein the gluconic acid comprises sodium gluconate and preferably wherein the citric acid comprises sodium citrate, to repair damage to hair protein in hair.

2. Use as claimed in Claim 1 , wherein the hair is damaged.

3. Use as claimed in Claim 1 or Claim 2, wherein the damage is mechanical, heat, color treatment, ultra-violet exposure, bleaching, or a combination thereof.

4. Use as claimed in Claim 3, wherein the damage is bleach.

5. Use as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the hair treatment composition is selected from a shampoo, a rinse-off hair conditioner, a hair mask, a leave-in treatment composition, and a pre-treatment composition..

6. Use as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the hair treatment composition is applied to the hair at least 1 time, preferably at least 3 times, more preferably at least 5 times.

7. Use as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the damage repair is to repair hydrogen bonds in the hair after use of the hair treatment composition, or wherein hydrogen bonds are rebuilt and repaired in the hair after use of the hair treatment composition.

8. Use as claimed in Claim 7, wherein the hydrogen bonds are internal cortical.

9. Use as claimed in Claim 7, wherein the hydrogen bonds are external cuticle.

10. Use as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the hair has greater than or equal to 75% less breakage as compared to a non-conditioning shampoo, preferably greater than or equal to 85% less breakage, more preferably greater than or equal to 95% less breakage.

11. Use as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the damage repair is to repair bonds and / or make bonds stronger after one application of the hair treatment composition.

12. Use as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the damage repair is an increase in the denaturation temperature of the internal protein of hair.

13. Use as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises a poly electrolyte complex, wherein the poly electrolyte complex comprises a polyquaternium and a methacrylate copolymer.

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