Cosmetic or dermatological gel preparation

Abstract

A preparation comprising one or more emollients selected from the group consisting of cetearyl isononanoate, decyl oleate, undecane and / or tridecane and up to 10 wt.% lipophilic foaming agents allows provision of a shaving gel that is morphologically dimensionally stable up to 40°C.

Description

[0001] Cosmetic or dermatological gel preparation

[0002] The invention is a cosmetic or dermatological gel preparation containing natural emollients selected from the group consisting of cetearyl isononanoate, decyl oleate, undecane, and / or tridecane, as well as up to 10 wt.% propellant gases. The preparation is free of polyisobutene, acrylate compounds, and silicone compounds, and advantageously also free of polyethylene glycols (PEGs). The gel preparation is morphologically stable up to 40°C and, in particular, enables the provision of a transparent shaving gel.

[0003] The provision of sustainable, sustainable, cosmetic products is a mandatory task, whereby consumer acceptance and product properties, such as pleasant sensory properties, appearance, feel and compatibility, must remain unchanged.

[0004] Raw materials and products are sustainable if they predominantly follow the principle that no more may be consumed than can be regrown, regenerated or made available again in the future.

[0005] In natural cosmetics, natural raw materials, near-natural raw materials and nature-identical raw materials are used to provide sustainable products.

[0006] Near-natural raw materials are chemically modified natural raw materials, where the chemical reactions are modeled on natural ones (e.g., saponification, esterification). To ensure the microbial safety of the product, nature-identical, i.e., fully synthetic preservatives, can also be used. These represent a third class of natural cosmetic raw materials. Nature-identical raw materials are synthetically produced but identical to naturally occurring raw materials. These include, in particular, organic acids.

[0007] There is no legal definition of the terms "sustainable" or "natural cosmetics" at either the national or European level. However, there are formal criteria that must be met for such products. They must be made predominantly or exclusively from natural substances. Natural substances are substances of plant, animal, and / or mineral origin, as well as their mixtures and reaction products.

[0008] Providing these is also a challenge for shaving products, especially in gel form.

[0009] Gel-like formulations are frequently found on the market. For consumers, easy handling and sensory properties of gel-like products are important. Therefore, when compiling the formulation, care must be taken to ensure the appropriate viscosity. Furthermore, spraying a highly viscous gel is problematic. High viscosity limits the range of available application options.

[0010] The selection of the raw materials it contains is of enormous importance for the rheology of the formulation as well as for sensory, optical and haptic properties.

[0011] Shaving products include shaving gels and foams that contain propellant gases and can be applied in gel or foam form from a can.

[0012] Shaving foam is usually a liquid shaving soap packaged with propellant. Surfactants are often added to improve lathering. Oils or waxes are also added to improve razor glide. Acrylic-based thickeners or silicones are often added to the formulations to improve glide and thus protect against razor blade injuries. While shaving foams swell immediately from the can, post-foaming shaving gels only develop the foam when applied to the skin. Gel products are sprayed onto the hand and, when spread over the beard, foam within a few seconds.

[0013] The strength of the gel depends very strongly on external parameters, especially temperature.

[0014] It is desirable to provide a sustainable shaving gel that retains its shape even at higher temperatures. It is also desirable to provide a gel that can be dispensed in a morphologically stable, gel-like consistency and can only be rubbed into a lather when mixed with water.

[0015] The invention is a cosmetic or dermatological gel preparation comprising one or more emollients selected from the group consisting of cetearyl isononanoate, decyl oleate, undecane and / or tridecane, and up to 10 wt.% lipophilic propellant gases, in particular 2-10 wt.% of a propellant gas mixture of l-pentane and l-butane, preferably in a weight ratio of 3:1.

[0016] Percentages refer to the total mass of the respective preparation, which can also be referred to as an active ingredient solution without propellants or as a preparation with propellants. The emollients according to the invention are natural, sustainable raw materials. The preparation is also free of polyisobutene, acrylate compounds, and silicone compounds, and is also advantageously free of polyethylene glycols (PEGs).

[0017] According to the invention, the use of polyisobutene, acrylate compounds, and silicone compounds, as well as possibly polyethylene glycols (PEGs), is avoided. According to the invention, the avoidance means that the proportion of these substances in the preparation is less than 0.1 wt.%, so that possible minor proportions, for example due to impurities or carryovers, are still within the scope of the invention.

[0018] The proportion of these substances is preferably less than 0.01% by weight, in particular less than 0.001% by weight, advantageously 0% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0019] Surprisingly, it was found that the shaving gel according to the invention can be provided transparently through the use of the emollients according to the invention, in particular cetearyl isononanoate. This is an important property for the consumer, which can now be used for the first time in a sensitive shaving gel. A transparent shaving gel indicates few raw materials and thus a sensitive product, and can therefore be used in a variety of ways and in numerous gel products.

[0020] A further advantage of the invention and thus the solution to the problem is that the gel according to the invention is morphologically stable even at 40°C and can therefore also be stored at up to 40°C, in contrast to conventional gels which are liquid at these temperatures.

[0021] Emollients are substances designed to soften and smooth the skin. Emollients are substances that reduce skin roughness, making the skin appear softer and smoother. They work by filling the spaces between exfoliating corneocytes, increasing cohesion between the horny cells, and smoothing out the raised edges of individual corneocytes. Examples of commonly used emollients are oils and fats, such as lanolin, mineral oil, and petrolatum. Some emollients include vegetable oils, synthetic and semi-synthetic oils, such as cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and some silicones.

[0022] According to the invention, however, only natural emollients from the group cetearyl isononanoate, decyl oleate, undecane and / or tridecane are selected.

[0023] Cetearyl isononanoate, also known as cetylstearyl isononanoate, is a wax derived from plant-based raw materials. It is a mixture of esters of isononanoic acid (mainly 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid) with cetearyl alcohol. Cetearyl isononanoate is also known as preen gland oil and is available, for example, as Cetiol SN® from BASF.

[0024] Decyl oleate is a traditional, medium-spreading emollient for cosmetic applications. It is a clear, slightly yellowish polar oil with a characteristic odor. Decyl oleate is available, for example, as Cetiol® V from BASF.

[0025] Undecane is found naturally in coconut, palm, prickly pear, gooseberries, algae and mushrooms.

[0026] Tridecane is primarily found in okra (marshmallow) and other natural sources.

[0027] The mixture of undecane and tridecane is used advantageously.

[0028] The Undecane / Tridecane mixture is a non-polar, clear oil made from 100% renewable raw materials and is available, for example, as Cetiol® Ultimate from BASF.

[0029] Advantageously, the proportion of one or more emollients according to the invention is 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.3 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total mass of the preparation without propellant gases (active ingredient solution).

[0030] The gel preparations according to the invention preferably comprise only natural substances, natural, near-natural, and / or nature-identical raw materials. Natural substances are substances of plant, animal, and / or mineral origin, as well as their mixtures and reaction products. Natural, near-natural, and / or nature-identical raw materials are considered to be substances that are obtained from natural substances only by physical means, are only chemically modified, or are produced in a nature-identical manner.

[0031] Depending on the embodiment, the preparation is understood to mean the active ingredient solution without propellant gases or the complete formulation, active ingredient solution and propellant gases.

[0032] The preparation according to the invention without propellant gases is advantageously presented as an O / W emulsion. It is liquid during production. The viscosity of the formula is approximately 1200 mPas (20°C) and advantageously has a density of approximately 1 g / cm³. 3

[0033] Surprisingly, the liquid preparation according to the invention, the active ingredient solution, becomes a morphologically dimensionally stable transparent shaving gel upon addition of lipophilic propellant gases, in particular upon addition of the mixture consisting of l-PENTAN and l-BUTANE in a weight ratio of 3:1.

[0034] The preparation according to the invention comprising one or more emollients selected from the group consisting of cetearyl isononanoate, decyl oleate, undecane, and / or tridecane, as well as up to 10 wt.% lipophilic propellant gases, thus enables the provision of a shaving gel that retains its shape morphologically up to 40°C. Comparative tests were conducted for this purpose.

[0035] A state-of-the-art shaving gel containing polyisobutene and an inventive shaving gel containing cetearyl isononanoate were compared with regard to temperature stability (see Table I).

[0036] The well-known gel becomes liquid after about one hour at a temperature of over 35°C.

[0037] To regain its shape, the shaving gel must be acclimated for approximately 12 hours at room temperature. The test examined the gel structure at 6°C, room temperature, 35°C, and 40°C. At 35°C, the state-of-the-art product could not be dispensed as a gel because it was too liquid.

[0038] The shaving gel containing cetearyl isononanoate according to the invention becomes slightly softer at temperatures above 35°C, but not liquid. This means that it can now be used even at higher temperatures. Furthermore, at even higher temperatures, the acclimatization time required for the shaving gel to regain its shape is reduced.

[0039] The stability test for the two formulas was conducted over a period of 8 months at 6°C, room temperature, 35°C, and 40°C. The gel structures of the formulas were compared and evaluated.

[0040] The inventive formula exhibited a clear / transparent gel structure at 6°C, RT, >35°C and 40°C, as well as a significantly superior stability in the gel structure (test period 8 months).

[0041] Table I: Recipe, active ingredient solution

[0042] In the shaving gel according to the invention, the propellant gases used are preferably propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, n-pentene, isopentane, isopentene, methane, and ethane, individually or in combination. Hydrophilic propellant gases, such as carbon dioxide, can also be advantageously used within the meaning of the present invention if the proportion of hydrophilic gases is selected to be low and lipophilic propellant gas (e.g., propane / butane) is present in excess. Since the lipophilic propellant gas proportion then predominates, the propellants used according to the invention are referred to as lipophilic propellants.

[0043] The propellant gas content is advantageously up to 10 wt.%, in particular 2 to 10 wt.%, advantageously 3 to 8 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation including propellant gases.

[0044] I-pentane and i-butane are preferred as propellants. A mixture of i-pentane and i-butane is advantageously used, with a weight ratio of i-pentane to i-butane of 3 to 1.

[0045] If only small amounts (<1%) of other propellants, either in trace amounts or introduced, are present in the aerosol gel preparation, the gel preparation is still considered to contain only one propellant or the propellant according to the invention. The sophisticated cosmetic compositions according to the invention may optionally comprise other conventional auxiliaries and additives, such as bodying agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, active ingredients, vitamins, proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, salts, EDTA, antimicrobial, proteolytic, or keratolytic substances, etc., unless excluded by the invention.

[0046] Compared to known formulations, a special combination of a gel formulation and a specific propellant gas has been found according to the invention, which overcomes the disadvantages of the prior art.

[0047] The emollients according to the invention, selected from the group consisting of cetearyl isononanoate, decyl oleate, undecane and / or tridecane, in combination with up to 10 wt.% lipophilic propellant gases, based on the total mass of the preparation, enable the production of a morphologically dimensionally stable shaving gel up to a temperature of 40°C.

[0048] Morphologically, in terms of its external appearance, shape, and structure, the gel according to the invention is dimensionally stable. This means that the gel is sponge-like, not a foam, but stable in its gel form and can thus be easily rubbed onto the skin.

[0049] The following examples illustrate the active ingredient solutions according to the invention. The figures are percentages by weight based on the total weight of the preparation without propellants.

[0050] Examples:

[0051] The preparations are then mixed with propellants in suitable application media. The proportion of propellants based on the total mass of the preparation, including the propellants, is advantageously 2 to 10% by weight, and dimensionally stable gels can be dispensed even at high temperatures (up to 40°C).

Claims

Patent claims 1 . A cosmetic or dermatological gel preparation comprising one or more emollients selected from the group consisting of cetearyl isononanoate, decyl oleate, undecane and / or tridecane, characterized in that the preparation comprises up to 10 wt.% lipophilic propellant gases, based on the total mass of the preparation, and is free from polyisobutene, acrylate compounds and silicone compounds.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that cetearyl isononanoate is chosen as the emollient.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of one or more emollients is 0.1 to 5 wt.%, in particular 0.3 to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 1 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation without propellant gases.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that isobutane and / or isopentane are selected as propellant gases.

5. Preparation according to claim 4, characterized in that a mixture of isobutane and isopentane in a weight ratio of 1:3 is selected as propellant gases.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from polyethylene glycols (PEGs).

7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that only natural, near-natural and / or nature-identical raw materials are contained.

8. Use of one or more emollients selected from the group consisting of cetearyl isononanoate, decyl oleate, undecane and / or tridecane and up to 10 wt.% lipophilic propellant gases, based on the total mass of the preparation, for producing a morphologically stable gel up to a temperature of 40°C.

9. Use of one or more emollients selected from the group consisting of cetearyl isononanoate, decyl oleate, undecane and / or tridecane and up to 10 wt.% lipophilic propellants, based on the total mass of the preparation, for producing a transparent gel.

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