A process for making a dispersion
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-24
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-08
AI Technical Summary
Current methods for producing polysaccharide-in-oil dispersions with high concentrations face challenges such as high viscosity, difficulty in handling, and the need for evaporation steps, which result in coarse polysaccharide particles and reduced molar mass, making it hard to achieve fine emulsions with small droplet sizes.
A process involving adding polysaccharides to a cosmetically acceptable oil, followed by the gradual addition of water and introduction of mechanical energy in the form of shear forces, allowing for storage and reduction of particle size, thereby overcoming the limitations of existing methods.
This process enables the production of storage-stable inverse emulsions with high polysaccharide concentrations and small particle sizes, improving the stability and properties of the emulsion, reducing water content, and avoiding the need for evaporation steps.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] A Process for Making a Dispersion
[0002] The present invention relates to a process for making a dispersion of at least one polysaccharide and water in a cosmetically acceptable oil, the process comprising providing a cosmetically acceptable oil, optionally adding at least one additive to the oil, adding at least one polysaccharide to the oil, so that a dispersion of the polysaccharide in the oil is obtained adding water to the dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide in oil, so that a dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil is obtained, wherein the dispersion comprises particles comprising the at least one polysaccharide and water, optionally storing this dispersion for 0.1 to 72 hours, preferably for 0.2 to 48 hours, more preferably for 0.3 to 24 hours, and introducing mechanical energy, preferably by applying shear forces, to the dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil, so that the particle size of the particles comprising the at least one polysaccharide and water is reduced. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of a dispersion obtainable by this process for making a cosmetic composition.
[0003] The present invention relates to a method for preparing storage stable inverse emulsions containing an outer water-insoluble oil phase and a dispersed inner phase containing a high concentration of polysaccharides in water. Materials are biodegradable to a great extent and especially useful for cosmetic and pharmaceutical uses.
[0004] EP 128661 A provides a dispersion of polysaccharide in oil in the presence of surfactants and / or stabilizers. The material is made by dispersing an aqueous solution of the polysaccharide in oil followed by drying the resultant emulsion. The initial polysaccharide solution normally contains at least 80% water, because very concentrated solutions cannot easily be handled and dispersed.
[0005] EP 137538 describes water-in-oil emulsions of polysaccharides. The polysaccharides are suitably supplied in the form of an aqueous solution with a concentration of up to 10 w.-% [page 2, Z31 ].
[0006] The two documents cited in the two previous paragraphs disclose processes for making a water-in-oil emulsion containing comparatively low amounts of polysaccharide in the first instance. Higher concentrations are very arduous to obtain due to the exponentially increasing viscosity of the aqueous polysaccharide phase, which impairs handling. In order to obtain high polysaccharide concentrations, both publications use an evaporation step, which removes water and volatile fractions of the oil, which requires additional handling equipment and effort. In order to obtain polysaccharide-in-oil dispersions with superior properties with regard to storage stability against sedimentation as well as fine gel or emulsion structures in the application, in many cases very small polysaccharide particles in the oil phase in the range of X5o<=1O pm are required. Polysaccharide powders available in the market are essentially too coarse to be used directly. One approach known in the state of the art is to grind the polysaccharide either dry or suspended in oil, which is usually accompanied by severe reduction in molar mass and thickening potential.
[0007] Another approach according to the state of the art is to dissolve the polysaccharide in water and to emulsify the polysaccharide solution in the oil phase. However, emulsions with high concentrations of polysaccharides cannot easily be produced. When dispersing considerable amounts of dry polysaccharides in water, the viscosity increases rapidly to an extent that makes it difficult to incorporate and hydrate large clusters and lumps of dry, not wetted polymer. Furthermore, the stickiness and viscosity of the resulting sol or gel is high, so that the production of fine emulsions with droplets in the size range below 10 pm is very challenging with conventional dispersing devices like stirred vessels, rotor-stator-dispersing machines, high pressure homogenizers or ultrasound sonotrodes and the like because of the high viscosity ratio between aqueous and oil phase.
[0008] The problem underlying the present invention is to provide a process for making a dispersion of at least one polysaccharide and water in a cosmetically acceptable oil that overcomes as many of the disadvantages of the processes known in the state of the art. It is especially desirable to provide a process that reduces the amount of water needed, so that not much water has to be removed if a product with low water content shall be made.
[0009] One embodiment of the present invention is a process for making a dispersion of at least one polysaccharide and water in a cosmetically acceptable oil, the process comprising providing a cosmetically acceptable oil, optionally adding at least one additive to the oil, wherein the additive is selected from the group consisting of a stabilizer and an emulsifier, adding at least one polysaccharide to the oil, so that a dispersion of the polysaccharide in the oil is obtained adding water to the dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide in oil, so that a dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil is obtained, wherein the dispersion comprises particles comprising the at least one polysaccharide and water, optionally storing this dispersion for 0.1 to 72 hours, preferably for 0.2 to 48 hours, more preferably for 0.3 to 30 hours, more preferably 0.5 to 24 hours, more preferably 1 to 24 hours, more preferably 2 to 24 hours, more preferably 2.5 to 24 hours, wherein the storing time starts with the adding of water to the dispersion (i. e. a storing time of 0.1 hour, i. e. 6 minutes, can be achieved by either adding the water continuously during 0.1 hours or it can be achieved by adding the water more quickly, e. g. within 1 minute and thereafter storing the dispersion for another 5 minutes), and introducing mechanical energy, preferably by applying shear forces, to the dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil, so that the particle size of the particles comprising the at least one polysaccharide and water is reduced.
[0010] Preferred embodiments of the process according to the present invention are disclosed in the dependent process-claims of the present document.
[0011] Another embodiment of the present invention is the use of a dispersion obtainable by the process according to the present invention making a cosmetic composition.
[0012] The at least one Polysaccharide
[0013] The polysaccharide according to the present invention can be any polysaccharide that is either soluble in water, meaning at least 1 g polysaccharide are soluble in 99 g water at 20 °C, or that is significantly swellable in water, meaning at least 10 g water can be taken up by 90 g polysaccharide at 20°C. Polysaccharides that are neither soluble in water nor swellable in water, e. g. cellulose or chitin, are not polysaccharides according to the present invention.
[0014] The polysaccharide according to the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of curdlan, sclerotium gum, paenan, guar gum, konjac gum, cassia gum, locust bean gum, tara gum, ceratonia siliqua gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, shizophyllan, scleroglucane, hydrasenyl glucan, welan gum, pullulan, phingane, welan gum, gellan gum, diutan gum, dextran, pektin, cordia gum, acacia gum, karaya gum, traganth gum, heparin, levan, fructan, ghatti gum, succinoglycan, galactoglucan, alginate, carrageenan, fucoidane, ulvan, laminarin, agarose, xyloglucan, cellulose acetate having a degree of substitution of 0.5 - 2, methylcellulose, nitrocellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cellulose sulfate, hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), cetyl-HEC, hydroxypropylcellulose, stearoxy hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, nanocellulose, chitosan, sacran, hyaluronic acid, succinoglycan gum, corn fibre gum, cold water soluble starch, hydrolyzed starch, maltodextrin, phosphatized starch, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxypropylstarch phosphate, inulin, cyclodextrine and lignan.
[0015] The polysaccharide according to the present invention may be modified by alkoxylation, especially with hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl groups, alkylation, quartenization, conversion with an epoxyalkylammonium salt, oxidation, carboxymethylation, nitration, sufitation, sulfation or phosphation. These modifications may be present alone or together, as in hydroxypropylstarch phosphate. In many cases, otherwise sparingly soluble or swellable polysaccharides may be converted to water dispersible materials by any of these modifications.
[0016] Preferably, the polysaccharide according to the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of carrageenan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, and combinations thereof.
[0017] The at least one cosmetically acceptable oil
[0018] In the context of the present invention, the term “cosmetically acceptable oil” or, synonymously, “emollient” is understood to mean substances that make the skin soft and supple, especially by supplying the skin with lipids or reducing evaporation or increasing the moisture content of the skin. Suitable emollients are substances from the group of the oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons and / or organosilicon compounds that are liquid at room temperature or have a melting point < 70°C.
[0019] Emollients present may be oils, fats and / or waxes, for example from the group formed by esters, wax esters, waxes, triglycerides or partial glycerides, natural vegetable oils or fats, hydrocarbons, organosilicon compounds, guerbet alcohols, mono- / dialkylethers, mono- / dialkyl carbonates, and mixtures thereof.
[0020] Exemplary esters that may be present include, but are not limited to, those of linear fatty acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear fatty alcohols with linear or branched carboxylic acids, esters of alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as diols or trimer triol, wax esters, triglycerides or partial glycerides (called mono- / di- / triglyceride esters), esters of fatty alcohols and / or guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols, natural vegetable oils or fats and mixtures thereof.
[0021] Suitable examples from the group of esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-C22 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols are myristyl myristate (commercially available as Cetiol® MM), myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl erucate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate (commercially available as Cetiol® J 600), behenyl oleate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate, ethylhexyl stearate (commercially available as Cetiol® 868), hexyl laurate (commercially available as Cetiol® A), coco-caprylate (commercially available as Cetiol® C5), coco-caprylate / caprate (commercially available as Cetiol® LC, Cetiol® C 5C), propylheptyl caprylate (commercially available as Cetiol® Sensoft), cetearyl isononanoate (commercially available as Cetiol® SN), decyl oleate (commercially available as Cetiol® V), cetearyl ethylhexanoate.
[0022] Similarly suitable are esters of alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably esters of lactic acid such as lauryl lactate.
[0023] Also suitable are esters of dicarboxylic acids and linear or branched alcohols, preferably esters of malic acid, adipic acid and / or sebacic acid, such as dibutyl adipate, dioctyl malate and / or diisopropyl sebacate.
[0024] Also suitable are esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol), such as propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate (commercially available as Myritol® PGDC), triglycerides based on C6-C10 fatty acids, liquid monoglycerides, diglycerides or mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids (commercially available as Myritol® 331 , Myritol® 312, Myritol® 318), esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (e.g. commercially available as Finsolv® TN, Cetiol® AB). Also suitable are hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides (commercially available as Cutina® HVG).
[0025] Of good suitability as natural, especially vegetable, fats and oils are groundnut oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, hemp seed oil, avocado oil, argan oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and shea butter, for example commercially available as Cegesoft® PFO, Cegesoft® PS 6, Cegesoft® SBE, Cegesoft® SH, Cegesoft® VP or Cetiol® SB 45.
[0026] Also usable as emollient are, for example, natural vegetable waxes such as fruit waxes (for example orange waxes) and animal waxes such as wool wax.
[0027] Also suitable as emollient are C12-C15 fatty alcohols that are usually obtained from natural fats, oils and waxes, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol or 1 -pentadecanol. Further suitable emollients are organosilicon compounds, which are frequently referred to simply as silicones. They may take the form of cyclic, branched or linear silicones. Silicones are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are joined via oxygen atoms in a chain-like and / or grid-like manner and the remaining valences of silicon are satisfied by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.). Systematically, the silicones are referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
[0028] Advantageous polyorganosiloxanes are, for example, the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes. They are also referred to as Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) or Dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones come in various chain lengths and with various molecular weights. They are available, for example, under the Abil® 350 trade name from Evonik or Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid trade name from Dow Chemicals.
[0029] Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone), cyclic silicones (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which are also referred to in accordance with INCI as cyclomethicone, aminomodified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as various Abil wax grades from Evonik. Silicones which are particularly preferred are dimethicone, amodimethicone and cyclomethicone.
[0030] Further suitable emollients are mono- and / or dialkyl carbonates of linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as dicaprylyl carbonate (commercially available as Cetiol® CC) or dipropylheptyl carbonate (commercially available as Cetiol® 4AII), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether (commercially available as Cetiol® OE).
[0031] Further suitable emollients are hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, paraffinum liquidum, undecane / tridecane (commercially available as Cetiol® Ultimate), hydrogenated polyisobutene (Luvitol® Lite), substituted cyclohexanes, isoparaffins or paraffins as well as C9- C12 alkanes.
[0032] Suitable Guerbet alcohols are those based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms (commercially available as Eutanol® G, Eutanol® G 16). Particularly preferred emollients according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, for example isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, coco- caprylate / caprate, and combinations thereof.
[0033] Particularly preferred emollients according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, coco-glycerides and caprylic / capric triglycerides.
[0034] Further particularly preferred emollients according to the present invention are listed in the following table (all products are available from BASF SE, Ludwigshafen, Germany):
[0035] Stabilizers and Emulsifiers
[0036] In one embodiment the dispersion further comprises at least one emulsifier. In the context of the present invention, the term “emulsifier” is understood to mean a substance that stabilizes an emulsion by reducing the oil-water interface tension and that has a molar mass of not more than 6000 g / mol.
[0037] In one embodiment of the present invention the at least one emulsifier is an oil-soluble W / O emulsifier. The at least one emulsifier can have an HLB-value of 3 to 8. The at least one emulsifier can be non-ionic. Preferably it is miscible with the at least one cosmetically acceptable oil. Preferably it is biodegradable.
[0038] The emulsifier according to the present invention can be a polyethylene glycol-derivative of a fatty alcohol, it can be a polypropylene glycol-derivative of a fatty alcohol, it can be a fatty acid ester of a polyol, e. g. sorbitol, glycerol, polyglycerol, a sugar like sucrose or pentaerythritol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, a copolymer of ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, it can be an alkyl polyglycoside.
[0039] The emulsifier according to the present invention can have a hydrophobic chain having 12 to 30 C-atoms. This hydrophobic chain can be a fatty acid moiety or a fatty alcohol moiety, it can be an oligomeric fatty acid moiety, e. g. resulting from a co-condensation of hydroxyalkyl compounds like hydroxy stearic acid.
[0040] The emulsifier according to the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan-monooleate, Sorbitan-monostearate, Sorbitan- trioleate or Sorbitan-tristearate.
[0041] In one embodiment the dispersion further comprises at least one stabilizer. In the context of the present invention, the term “stabilizer” is understood to mean polymers or inorganic materials that stabilize an emulsion. The polymers have an average molar mass Mw of more than 1000 g / mol, preferably more than 6000 g / mol, more preferably more than 10000 g / mol.
[0042] The at least one stabilizer according to the present invention can be a hydrophobic polymer that has polar groups, preferably non-ionic polar groups.
[0043] The at least one stabilizer according to the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of a copolymer of stearylmethacrylate, methylmethacrylate and methacrylic acid, a copolymer of stearylmethacrylate and methacrylic acid and a block copolymer in which a central poly-1 , 2-propylene glycol group is flanked by two polyethylene glycol groups. The at least one stabilizer according to the present invention can be a polymer having an average molar mass Mw of more than 6000 g / mol, preferably more than 10000 g / mol that stabilizes an emulsion. The stabilizer preferentially is an amphiphilic compound. It contains a majority of groups which impart affinity to the emollient used and a minority of groups which impart affinity to water or alcohols. The stabilizer preferably has a water-solubility of less than 5 w.-% at room temperature. The stabilizer may impart an additional steric stabilization to the dispersion according to the present invention.
[0044] In one embodiment, the stabilizer is preferentially soluble in the emollient or forms stable colloidal dispersions in the emollient. Examples of such stabilizers are SMA / MAA copolymers, PEG / PPO block copolymers, and the like. In another embodiment, the stabilizer is composed of emollient-dispersible particles with an affinity to polar surfaces. Such particles may be inorganic or organic. Examples of inorganic particles are bentonites and hectorites which have been loaded with hydrophobic components, an example being Stearylalkonium Hectorite. Examples of particulate organic materials are compounds, which are partly insoluble in the emollient used. Examples are hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, e. g. ethyl cellulose.
[0045] Particle Size Determination
[0046] In one embodiment of the process according to the present invention the average particle size of the dispersed particles dso is equal to or less than 25 pm, preferably equal or less than 10 pm, wherein dso is determined by Fraunhofer diffraction measurements carried out with the dispersion.
[0047] Fraunhofer diffraction measurements carried out with the dispersion is a laser diffraction method. It is carried out as follows. A Mastersizer 3000 (obtainable from Malvern Pananalytical) with a Hydro SV unit installed is used for the measurements. A sample of the dispersion is diluted with the cosmetically acceptable oil of the dispersion. If the dispersion comprises further components apart from the components listed in claim 1 , then the concentration of these further components is kept constant during the dilution by adding corresponding amounts of these further components. Before each measurement, background acquisition measurements are done with a blank sample (comprising the cosmetically acceptable oil and the further components, if any). The pre-diluted dispersion is then added dropwise to the blank sample, without removing the measurement cell from the Mastersizer 3000, upon continuous stirring via an installed stirrer at a rate of 500 - 1000 rpm. The prediluted dispersion is added until an obscuration level of 5-15 % is reached. Data analysis is then performed with the Mastersizer 3000 software using the Fraunhofer scattering model. Cosmetic Composition and Further Cosmetically Acceptable Ingredients
[0048] The term “cosmetic composition”, as used herein, relates to all compositions known to the person skilled in the art which are exclusively or primarily intended to be used externally on the human body or in its oral cavity for cleaning, care, protection, maintaining a good condition, perfuming, changing the appearance or for the purposes of influencing body odor. Said compositions include formulations for body care, face care, skin care, hand care and hair care as well as decorative cosmetics e. g. body milks, creams, lotions, aftershave lotions, products for eliminating body odor such as deodorants and antiperspirants, make-up removers, conditioners, and styling products. Also included are formulations typically containing surfactants, such as e. g. foam and shower baths, hair shampoos and care rinses. The cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be any of the above. In an embodiment of the present invention they are selected from shower gels, hair shampoos, foam and showers baths, skin care creams, in particular hand care creams, and body lotions. In various embodiments, the composition is a rinse off composition. This includes, without limitation, shower gels, shampoos, hair conditioners, foam baths and the like.
[0049] The one or more further cosmetically acceptable ingredients can be any cosmetically acceptable ingredient. Several sources disclose cosmetically acceptable ingredients. E. g. the database Cosing on the homepage of the European Commission discloses cosmetic ingredients and the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, edited by the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) discloses cosmetic ingredients.
[0050] Surfactants
[0051] In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one surfactant.
[0052] Surfactants are amphiphilic substances which can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water. They cause, as a result of their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and a hydrophobic molecular moiety, a lowering of the surface tension of the water, the wetting of the skin, the facilitation of soil removal and dissolution, easy rinse-off and - if desired - foam regulation. Surfactants are typically understood to mean surface-active substances which have an HLB value of greater than 20.
[0053] Suitable surfactants include all those generally used in the field of cosmetic and personal care compositions and known to those skilled in the art. The surfactants used may be anionic, nonionic, cationic, and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. In surfactant-containing compositions, for example shower gels, foam baths, shampoos etc. at least one anionic surfactant is preferably present. In such embodiments, the anionic surfactant can be combined with another type of surfactant, typically with the exception of cationic surfactants, in particular nonionic or zwitterionic / ampholytic surfactants. In all embodiments disclosed herein, more than one surfactant of any type may be included, for example 2, 3, 4, 5 or more different (types of) surfactants.
[0054] “Alkyl (ether) sulfates” and “fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates”, as used herein, relate to the well- known class of anionic surfactants of sulfated fatty alcohols and sulfated fatty alcohol ethers, in particular the ethoxylated, propoxylated or mixed ethoxylated / propoxylated ethers of fatty alcohols. Examples of such surfactants thus include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS or SDS). As disclosed herein below, it is preferred that these are only used in low amounts or the compositions are free of such surfactants.
[0055] Typical examples of usable nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk(en)yl (poly)glycosides and glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N- alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution.
[0056] Zwitterionic surfactants refer to those surface-active compounds which bear at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO(-) or -SO3(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N- dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N- acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylamino- propyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate.
[0057] Also suitable, especially as cosurfactants, are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C8-C18-alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N- alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyhglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N- alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids having in each case about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl-aminopropionate and C12-18- acylsarcosine.
[0058] Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
[0059] Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin-sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, a-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ethercarboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, for example acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants comprise polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution.
[0060] While the compositions may contain alkyl (ether) sulfates, including fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates, it is preferred that these are only present in low amounts of less than 2 wt.-%, such as 1 wt.-% or lower, or more preferred completely absent. In particular the rinse-off compositions disclosed herein are preferably free of such alkyl (ether)sulfates.
[0061] Cationic surfactants which can be used are especially quaternary ammonium compounds. Preference is given to ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. In addition, the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, for example the dialkylammonium methosulfates and methylhydroxyalkyldialkyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates sold under the trade name Stepantex® and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series can also be used as cationic surfactants. The term “ester quats” are generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known substances which are prepared by the relevant methods of organic chemistry. Further cationic surfactants which can be used in accordance with the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.
[0062] Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. particularly skin-friendly, surfactants are mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, 2-sulfonated fatty acids, alkyl (poly)glycosides / -glucosides and / or mixtures thereof with alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals, protein hydrolysates, and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins or salts thereof. These surfactants are preferred surfactants to be used in the compositions of the invention. In the compositions of the invention, these may be used individually or in combination.
[0063] Preferred surfactants are also generally those that are obtainable from renewable raw materials and are readily biodegradable.
[0064] Alk(en)yl (poly)glycosides (APGs) may be compounds of formula (I),
[0065] R1O-[G]P(I) in which R1is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical with 4 to 18 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is numbers between 1 and 10. While such compounds are commonly referred to as alkyl glycosides or alkyl poly glycosides or alkyl oligo glycosides it is also possible that the alkyl moiety is an alkenyl radical. The term APG, as used herein, thus is intended to cover both alkyl and alkenyl (poly)glycosides.
[0066] APGs of the form claimed here can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The APGs can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms. While various sugar units may be used, in various embodiments, the sugar units of the APGs are derived from glucose.
[0067] The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP degree = degree of polymerization). The degree of oligomerization of the APGs is between 1 and 10 and preferably between 1 and 6. Whereas p in an individual APG molecule must always be an integer and here in particular assumes the values in the range from 1 to 6, the value p for an APG which is a mixture of different APG molecules, which differ in their individual p values, is an analytically determined calculated parameter which in most cases is a fraction. Preferably, APGs are used with an average degree of oligomerization p in the range from 1.1 to 3.0 or from 1.1 to 1 .8 or from 1.2 to 1 .7. The average degree of oligomerization here is to be understood in the sense of how it is defined in the monograph K. Hill, W. von Rybinski, G. Stoll “Alkyl Polyglycosides. Technology, Properties and Applications” (VCH-Verlagsgesellschft, 1996) in the section “Degree of polymerization” (compare pages 11-12 of the book): there it reads “The average number of glycose units linked to an alcohol group is described as the (average) degree of polymerization (DP).” In explanatory figure 2, which describes a typical distribution of dodecyl glycoside oligomers of an AOPG with a degree of DP of 1.3, the average degree of DP is also described by a corresponding mathematical formula.
[0068] The radical R1is preferably derived from primary alcohols with 4 to 12 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples of suitable radicals R1are butyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl and myristyl. They are derived from the saturated fatty alcohols butanol-1 , caproic alcohol (hexanol-1), caprylic alcohol (octanol-1), capric alcohol (decanol-1), undecanol-1 , lauryl alcohol (dodecanol-1) and myristyl alcohol (tetradecanol-1), as are obtained for example in the hydrogenation of technical-grade fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes during Roelen oxo synthesis.
[0069] Preference is given to APGs which are derived from glucose and in which the radical R1is a saturated alkyl radical with 8 to 12 carbon atoms and which have an average degree of oligomerization in the range from 1.1 to 3 and in particular in the range from 1.2 to 1.8 and particularly preferably in the range from 1.2 to 1.7. These APGs can for example be prepared by reacting a sugar, in particular glucose, under acid catalysis with a fatty alcohol mixture, the fatty acid mixture used preferably being a forerunning produced during the distillative separation of technical-grade Cs-is-coconut fatty alcohol, which comprises predominantly octanol-1 and decanol-1 and also small amounts of dodecanol-1.
[0070] Suitable 2-sulfonated fatty acids include, without limitation, 2-sulfolaurate and salts thereof, in particular disodium 2-sulfolaurate.
[0071] In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention include at least one surfactant. The at least one surfactant may be present in amounts of from 1 to 30 wt.-%, preferably 2 to 25 wt.-% or 5 to 25 wt.-% or 8 to 30 wt.-% or 10 to 25 wt.-% or 15 to 25 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the at least one surfactant is present in amounts of 5 to 20 or 10 to 15 wt.-%. Such surfactant-containing compositions may, in various embodiments, be the rinse-off compositions described herein.
[0072] In such surfactant-containing compositions, for example shower gels, foam baths, shampoos etc. at least one anionic surfactant is preferably present, preferably in combination with at least one nonionic or zwitterionic surfactant. In such embodiments, the at least one anionic surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant may be selected from the surfactants indicated as being preferred above. For example, the anionic surfactant may be a 2-sulfonated fatty acid, such as 2-sulfolaurate, and the nonionic surfactant may be an APG. The anionic surfactant may alternative be a sulfosuccinate or fatty acid glutamate and the nonionic / zwitterionic surfactant may be an alkylamidobetaine.
[0073] Further components
[0074] Depending on the intended application, the compositions of the invention can comprise a series of further auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, preservatives, dyes, coloring agents, pigments, fragrances, humectants, emulsifiers, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, buffering and pH adjustment agents, conditioning agents and antioxidants. Suitable compounds are commercially available and well-known to those skilled in the art.
[0075] Suitable humectants, for example, include sorbitol, glycerol, propylene glycol, xylitol, liquid polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof. If used in the compositions, the weight ratio of water to humectant is preferably at least 10:1 and up to 30:1 , with the total amount of humectant ranging from 2 to 8 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 3 to 7 or 4 to 6 wt.-%.
[0076] In some embodiments, the compositions may comprise polyquaternium-10 (quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose) as a conditioning agent. In such embodiments, the compositions are preferably rinse-off formulations, such as shower gels, shampoos and bath foams.
[0077] In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention comprise cationic guar gum, preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt, typically the chloride salt. Guar gum is a galactomannan polysaccharide extracted from guar beans that is known for its thickening and stabilizing properties useful in food applications. Cationic guar (gum) is obtained by quaternization of guar gum, the most common cationic guar being guar hydroxypropyltrimonium. It is typically used in form of its salt, in particular the chloride salt.
[0078] The compositions of the invention may optionally contain cationic guar in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 wt.-%, preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In such embodiments, the compositions are preferably rinse-off formulations, such as shower gels, shampoos and bath foams. The compositions of the invention are free of (poly)acrylate thickeners or, preferably, generally free of polyacrylates, including acrylate copolymers. In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention are generally free of synthetic polymeric thickeners. In some embodiments, the compositions do not contain any thickeners or rheology modifying agents other than xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate). In this context, “thickeners” and “rheology modifiers” preferably refer to compounds only added for the purpose to increase or adjust viscosity and rheology and which do not function as other components of the composition, such as surfactants, emollients or any of the other auxiliary substances listed above.
[0079] The compositions of the invention are also free of organic UV filters selected from (hydroxy)benzophenones, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, and ethylhexyl salicylate. In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention are also free of organic UV filters selected from (hydroxy)benzophenones, triazines, triazones, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate. In various embodiments, the personal care compositions of the invention are not sunscreens.
[0080] The compositions of the invention are also free of fluorinated organic compounds, more preferably free of halogenated organic compounds. This relates to organic compounds that have fluorine or any other halogen bonded by a covalent bond, but does not extend to halogen salts (halides).
[0081] The compositions of the invention are preferably also free of alkyl (ether) sulfate surfactants or contain those only in small amounts of less than 2 wt.-%, preferably 1 wt.-% or less.
[0082] The compositions of the invention are preferably also free of oxidizing agents, such as those used in hair dyes, in particular hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide generating compounds. In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention are not hair dyes.
[0083] The compositions of the present invention may be based, in various embodiments, predominantly on components derived from renewable raw materials. In various embodiments this may mean that more than 50 wt.-%, preferably more than 60, more than 70, more than 80 or more than 90 wt.-% of the components of the composition other than water are derived from renewable raw materials. It may be preferred that all non-water components are derived from renewable raw materials. Said renewable materials include, but are not limited to, plant-based materials. It may be preferred that less than 10 wt.-%, more preferably none of the non-water components of the compositions are derived from fossil sources or fossil fuels. The compositions of the present invention may be based, in various embodiments, predominantly on components that are biodegradable. In various embodiments this may mean that more than 50 wt.-%, preferably more than 60, more than 70, more than 80 or more than 90 wt.-% of the components of the composition besides water are biodegradable. It may be preferred that all non-water components are biodegradable. The biodegradability is preferably determined according to OECD 301 F or OECD 302 C (MITI-II test), with ..biodegradable" components preferably having a biodegradability of at least 40%, preferably 60% determined according to OECD 301 F and / or at least 20%, preferably at least 40% according to OECD 302 C.
[0084] The compositions of the invention preferably have a pH at 20°C in the range of 3.5 to 7.0, preferably 4.0 to 6.5. more preferably 4.5 to 6.5, for example 4.8 to 5.2 or 6.0. to 6.2. The pH value may be determined directly or, preferably, as a 1% solution or dispersion in deionized water.
[0085] The viscosity of the compositions is preferably at least 2.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle 4, 10 rpm) and may be as high as 50.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle TC, Helipath, 10 rpm).
[0086] Further Aspects
[0087] Introducing mechanical energy can inter alia be achieved by applying shear forces or by applying elongational forces or by applying inertial forces or by applying cavitation.
[0088] Stirring can be done by using dispersing equipment like stirrers, dissolver disks or rotor-stator- machines.
[0089] Examples for high-shear rotor-stator devices and high-pressure dispersing units and their manufacturers are described in “Emulgiertechnik- Grundlagen, Verfahren und Anwendungen, Helmar Schubert, B. Behr’s Verlag GmbH & Co. KG, AverhoffstraBe 10, 22085 Hamburg, 1st edition, 2005, Chapters 10 to 12".
[0090] In one embodiment of the process according to the present invention the amount of polysaccharide used per 100 g of cosmetically acceptable oil used is at least 10 g or more, preferably at least 15 g or more, more preferably at least 25 g or more. In one embodiment of the process according to the present invention polysaccharide powder is dispersed without water under shear in a previously prepared solution of a cosmetically acceptable oil phase with stabilizing additives. For this task, dispersing equipment like stirrers, dissolver disks or rotor-stator-machines can be used. Subsequently, water is added gradually under strong agitation allowing it to diffuse to the individual hydrophilic polysaccharide particles and to hydrate them. After this first dispersion step, the dispersion can optionally be left for a certain time to allow for a further swelling of the polysaccharide particles. Commonly, the agitation of the inverse emulsion system is continued during this step. Subsequently, the swollen gel particles are dispersed in a second dispersing step, again using dispersing technologies like stirred vessels, rotor-stator-dispersing machines, high pressure homogenizers or ultrasound sonotrodes and the like, to produce a finely dispersed water-in-oil emulsion. The water-swollen, softened state of the polysaccharide seems to help to limit polymer degradation as observed in milling approaches in absence of water.
[0091] The dispersion obtained by the process according to the present invention can be used as such; alternatively, water can be optionally removed, e. g. by applying vacuum.
[0092] Examples
[0093] % means % by weight unless a different definition is given.
[0094] Materials Used
[0095] Comparative Example
[0096] Xanthan gum was milled in Emollient 1 in a ball mill for 30 minutes. A sedimenting suspension was obtained. The thickening power of the xanthan gum was massively reduced: Prior to milling: Gel 1 weight-% in water: 4000 mPas (Brookfield, RT, 20 rpm, Sp.6)
[0097] After milling: Gel 1 weight-% in water: 500 mPas (Brookfield, RT, 20 rpm, Sp.6)
[0098] This comparative example shows that it was not possible to obtain a stable suspension of small xanthan gum particles in Emollient 1 by milling. The dispersing step in the absence of water led to the deterioration of the gel properties.
[0099] Example 1
[0100] An emulsion was prepared in the following manner:
[0101] Dispersion Step 1 : To 200 g of Emollient 1 were added 13.8 g of Additive 1 and 28 g of Additive 4 solution (20 w.-% in Emollient 1) under gentle stirring until a clear solution was obtained. Using a dissolver disc with a diameter of 40 mm, 45 g of kappa-Carrageenan were added within 2 minutes time. Under external cooling with ice, 120 g of demineralized water were added slowly while dispersing at 6000 rpm for 4 minutes; stirring was continued for another 10 minutes. The emulsion was kept at room temperature for 24 h.
[0102] Dispersion Step 2: After the maturation time, the emulsion was dispersed using the dissolver at 6000 rpm and a batch rotor-stator shear unit with a rotor tip speed of 24 meters per second (m / s) at the same time (4 cycles, each 2,5 minutes). The temperature was controlled not to exceed 40°C. A whitish, storage-stable emulsion with increased viscosity but sufficient flowability was obtained. According to light-microscopic pictures, the Carrageenan-water droplets obtained in the Emollient 1 were smaller than 10 pm in diameter.
[0103] 36.2 g of the dispersion were stirred into 163.8 g of water, leading to a raise in viscosity. After stirring for 24 hours, the viscosity was determined using a Brookfield viscosimeter (spindle 6, 20 rpm, room temperature) to be 31800 mPas. A smooth and stable emulsion was obtained.
[0104] An emulsion using the same composition without following above protocol was low viscous and inhomogeneous.
[0105] Examples 2 - 3
[0106] In a similar manner as in Example 2 the following compositions have been prepared using gellan gum as polysaccharide. The resulting emulsions were smooth and stable.
[0107] The emulsion was poured into water so that a system containing 0.5 w.-% of the polysaccharide was obtained. The viscosity of the mixture was subsequently determined.
[0108] Example 4
[0109] A suspension of 14,5 g of gellan gum in 62 g of Emollient 1 and 2.1 g of Additive 1 was premixed and filled into a ball mill. With start of the milling, 21.4 g of water were added over a period of 5 mins and the milling continued for 30 mins. We obtained a smooth and stable emulsion.
[0110] The emulsion was poured into water in a manner that a system containing 1 w.-% of the polysaccharide was obtained. The viscosity of the mixture was subsequently determined to be 28000 mPas. Examples 5 - 8
[0111] In a similar manner following examples 1 - 3, Xanthan emulsions have been prepared. We obtained very smooth and flowable emulsions, which were storage stable. After pouring into water, they readily developed the viscosity expected from their respective Xanthan content.
[0112] The particle size of these emulsions was determined by Fraunhofer Laser diffraction using a Malvern Mastersizer 3000. The emulsions were diluted with Myritol® 331 solvent prior to the measurement.
[0113] Example 9
[0114] An emulsion was prepared in the following manner:
[0115] Dispersion Step 1 : To 182 g of Emollient 2 were added 65 g of Additive 1 and 130 g of Additive 4 solution (20 w.-% in Emollient 1) under gentle stirring until a clear solution was obtained. Using a dissolver disc with a diameter of 40 mm, 120 g of Xanthan Gum were added within 2 minutes time. Under external cooling with ice, 300 g of demineralized water were added slowly while dispersing at 6000 rpm for 4 minutes; stirring was continued for another 10 minutes. The emulsion was kept at room temperature for 24 h.
[0116] Dispersion Step 2: After the maturation time, the emulsion was dispersed using the dissolver at 6000 rpm and a batch rotor-stator shear unit with a rotor tip speed of 24 meters per second (m / s) at the same time (4 cycles, each 2.5 minutes). The temperature was controlled not to exceed 40°C. We obtained a whitish, storage-stable emulsion with very favourable flowability. According to light-microscopic pictures, the Xanthan-water droplets obtained were smaller than 10 pm in diameter.
[0117] Example 10
[0118] In a similar manner as in Example 9, a stable low viscous emulsion was prepared from 60 g of Xanthan Gum, 150 g of water, 123 g of Emollient 1 , 20 g of Additive 3 and 16 g of Additive 6. Example 11
[0119] In a similar manner as in Example 9, a stable low viscous emulsion was prepared from 17.8 g of Xanthan Gum, 44.4 g of water, 36.4 g of Emollient 1 , 1.4 g of Additive 8 and 0.7 g of Additive 1.
[0120] Example 12
[0121] An emulsion was prepared in the following manner:
[0122] Dispersion Step 1 : To 296 g of Emollient 1 were added 65 g of Additive 1 and 130 g of additive 4 solution (20 w.-% in Emollient 1) under gentle stirring until a clear solution was obtained. Using a dissolver disc with a diameter of 40 mm and a rotational speed of 6000 rpm, 195 g of Xanthan Gum were added within 2 minutes time. Under external cooling with ice, 488 g of demineralized water were added slowly while dispersing at 6000 rpm for 4 minutes; stirring was continued for another 10 minutes. The emulsion was kept at room temperature for 24 h. Dispersion Step 2: After the maturation time, the emulsion was dispersed using an inline rotorstator dispersing machine equipped with a tooth-and-chamber dispersing tool with 47 meters per second (m / s) rotor tip speed and 1 .3 kg / h flow rate. The temperature was controlled not to exceed 40°C. We obtained a whitish, storage-stable emulsion with very favourable flowability. According to light-microscopic pictures, the Xanthan-water droplets obtained were smaller than 10 pm in diameter.
[0123] Example 13
[0124] An emulsion was prepared in the following manner:
[0125] Dispersion Step 1 : To 273 g of Emollient 1 were added 60 g of Additive 1 and 120 g of Additive 4 solution (20 w.-% in Emollient 1) under gentle stirring until a clear solution was obtained. Using a dissolver disc with a diameter of 40 mm and a rotational speed of 6000 rpm, 180 g of Xanthan Gum were added within 2 minutes time. Under external cooling with ice, 450 g of demineralized water were added slowly while dispersing at 6000 rpm for 4 minutes; stirring was continued for another 10 minutes. The emulsion was kept at room temperature for 24 h. Dispersion Step 2: After the maturation time, the emulsion was dispersed using a two-stage high pressure homogenizer. The emulsion was homogenized in 4 straight passes with a homogenizing pressure of 600 bar in the first and with 60 bar in the second homogenizing stage. The temperature was controlled not to exceed 40°C. A whitish, storage-stable emulsion with very favourable flowability was obtained. According to light-microscopic pictures, the Xanthan-water droplets in the emulsion were smaller than 10 pm in diameter.
Claims
Claims1. A process for making a dispersion of at least one polysaccharide and water in a cosmetically acceptable oil, the process comprising providing a cosmetically acceptable oil, optionally adding at least one additive to the oil, wherein the additive is selected from the group consisting of a stabilizer and an emulsifier, adding at least one polysaccharide to the oil, so that a dispersion of the polysaccharide in the oil is obtained adding water to the dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide in oil, so that a dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil is obtained, wherein the dispersion comprises particles comprising the at least one polysaccharide and water, optionally storing this dispersion for 0.1 to 72 hours, preferably for 0.2 to 48 hours, more preferably for 0.3 to 24 hours, wherein the storing time starts with the adding of water to the dispersion, and introducing mechanical energy, preferably by applying shear forces, to the dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil, so that the particle size of the particles comprising the at least one polysaccharide and water is reduced.
2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one polysaccharide is either soluble in water, meaning at least 1 g polysaccharide are soluble in 99 g water at 20°C, or that is significantly swellable in water, meaning at least 10 g water can be taken up by 90 g polysaccharide at 20 °C.
3. The process according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetically acceptable oil is selected from the group consisting of Coco-Glycerides, Caprylic I Capric Triglycerides, and combinations thereof.
4. The process according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one additive is selected from the group consisting of PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2-Dipolyhydroxystearate, a copolymer of stearylmethacrylate, and methacrylic acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Stearylalkonium Hectorite , and combinations thereof.
5. The process according to any of the preceding claims, wherein during and / or after the adding of the at least one polysaccharide to the oil, so that a dispersion of the polysaccharide in the oil is obtained, this dispersion is stirred.
6. The process according to any of the preceding claims, wherein during and / or after the adding of water, so that a dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil is obtained, this dispersion is stirred.
7. The process according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the introducing of mechanical energy to the dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil is done with a high-shear rotor-stator device and / or a high-pressure dispersing unit.
8. The process according to any of the preceding claims, wherein per 100 parts by weight of cosmetically acceptable oil provided the amount of the at least one additive is 0 to 25, preferably 0.5 to 20, more preferably 1 to 15 parts by weight, the amount of the at least one polysaccharide is 5 to 50, preferably 8 to 40 more preferably 12 to 35 parts by weight, and the amount of the water is 0.1 to 60, preferably 5 to 50, more preferably 10 to 45 parts by weight.
9. The process according to any of the preceding claims, wherein after the applying of shear forces to the dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil, so that the particle size of the particles comprising the at least one polysaccharide and water is reduced, this particle size is on average 25 micrometers or less, preferably at least 10 micrometers or less, wherein the average particle size is determined by Fraunhofer diffraction measurements carried out with the dispersion.
10. The process according to claim 9, wherein after the applying of shear forces to the dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil, so that the particle size of the particles comprising the at least one polysaccharide and water is reduced, this particle size is on average 1 micrometer or more, preferably at least 5 micrometers or more, wherein the average particle size is determined by Fraunhofer diffraction measurements carried out with the dispersion.
11. The process according to any of the preceding claims further comprising removing water, partly or completely, preferably by applying vacuum, from the dispersion of the at least one polysaccharide and water in the cosmetically acceptable oil, so that, in the case of complete removal of water, a dispersion of at least one polysaccharide in a cosmetically acceptable oil is obtained.
12. A process for making a cosmetic composition, the process comprising the process for making a dispersion according to any of the preceding claims, and furthermore combining the dispersion with at least one further cosmetically acceptable ingredient.
13. The use of a dispersion obtainable by the process of any of claims 1 to 11 for making a cosmetic composition.